So after all this, everything is working again. I can home the printer, I can heat the hotend and bed, but when I power the hotend, the omron goes off. Completely. Crashing the gantry. Can anyone help me with this one? This is new, and I'm suspecting it's a setting somewhere with the new omron the v2 tap uses? Because I never had this issue with the printed tap I previously built. I just did a direct swap of the old one to the cnc tap v2.
#Voron 2.4 ChaoticLabs CNC Tap installed, 14pin Molex issues repaired, Omron turns off w/ hotend on
old bay
robust fulcrum
How do you route cables from hotend and tap to mcu?
robust fulcrum
Is the tap connected to a pcb or direct to the mcu
old bay
Is the tap connected to a pcb or direct to the mcu
Tap is connected to the hartk two piece board.
old bay
The only thing different with everything was the omron connector harness had a different end on it, so I cut the fitting off the original sensor from the printed tap, and soldered it onto the chaotic lab harness to reuse the connector that connects to the hartk board
As I said, it works. Until I turn on the hotend.
old bay
Anyone?
gaunt quest
Anyone?
Hi. Let's see some pictures of the wiring involved. Also, your original post is kind of hard to follow. After all what? And what was broken before? You said you cut and soldered some wiring in your toolhead? That's not a recommended method. Typically people will reterminate the wires via crimping the correct terminals.
Turning on the hot end should have nothing to do with the tap sensor, so clearly there is some kind of wiring issue.
You say you are using the hartk two piece board. There seem to be some relevant info regarding that. I don't use tap, and have no experience with it, so keep that in mind.
#voron_tap message shows there is some rework that might be needed
And in general, you should read pinned comments in that channel.
Also, have a read here if you haven't: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap
robust fulcrum
Anyone?
sorry with the different time zone it is sometimes hard to follow i asked how it was connected to the board exactly for that reason that @gaunt quest exposed
it looks like you have 24v going to your tap it should not be the case here
could you take pictures of the wiring to the pcb plz
old bay
could you take pictures of the wiring to the pcb plz
Unfortunately there isn't much to show in the way of the pcb.
old bay
https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1041007230239125574/104697541488...
This machine already had a tap installed. It was already running 24v. Just like the hotend.
I just upgraded to the cnctap from the printed one.
old bay
it looks like you have 24v going to your tap it should not be the case here
The new v2 says it uses 5v or 24v
bold shoal
The new v2 says it uses 5v or 24v
When you start heating the hotend do your fans stop turning too? Or do they turn more slowly when the hotend is on?
This may be a case of V+ and HE0 wires being swapped
old bay
When you start heating the hotend do your fans stop turning too? Or do they tur...
I'll take a look!
old bay
When you start heating the hotend do your fans stop turning too? Or do they tur...
So real quick, I tried just firing off the hotend to see what happens when it comes to temp, and the omron blue light starts flashing along with the PWM of the hotend.
As it gets closer to the set temp
So do you think this is V+ (5v) or (24v) and HE0 being swapped?
bold shoal
So do you think this is V+ (5v) or (24v) and HE0 being swapped?
Sorry I had to draw it out to be sure. I think 24 V and HEO might be swapped.
At the MCU I mean.
old bay
At the MCU I mean.
Even though it was working previously for over a year with the printed tap?
bold shoal
Even though it was working previously for over a year with the printed tap?
Makes it less likely for sure. Did you change out the sensor on the tap? Is the optotap pcb new or were you running the same one before?
old bay
Makes it less likely for sure. Did you change out the sensor on the tap? Is the...
New opto board. I WAS using the standard one from the Voron Tap Bom. Now it's the 5v-24v omron board that ships with the chaotc labs cnc v2
bold shoal
Ok. Can you show us photos of the wiring on both the opto pcb and the toolhead board?
old bay
Ok. Can you show us photos of the wiring on both the opto pcb and the toolhead b...
So here's a picture of the hartk board
Probe connector is power/ground/signal. On the board from left to right
I clipped off the soldered connector thinking maybe something wrong there, and terminated with new ends.
Same issue.
Here's a pic of the omron on the cnc tap cable.
From the chaotic labs manual:
So everything appears to be wired correctly.
As soon as the 24v revo hotend gets fired up, the tap sensor loses power. It makes no sense to me.
gaunt quest
As soon as the 24v revo hotend gets fired up, the tap sensor loses power. It mak...
Ok, I'm going to ask some really basic questions. The schematic seems to show that there are 2 or 3 LEDs on this tap PCB. One that stays on when the TAP PCB has power, and one that toggles depending on the state of the switch. Is this correct?
old bay
Ok, I'm going to ask some really basic questions. The schematic seems to show t...
Correct. Blue for power on, red for triggered
When powered on, the light is blue.
When triggered, it is red. It is blue while doing a routine home, and home Z just fine, turning red when triggered in the homing
When I power on the hotend, the blue light goes OUT, but if I set the hotend for say 100C, the blue light goes out until it gets close to target, then rapidly starts flashing, then when the hotend hits temp and osscilates power via PWM, the blue light flashes along with the power going to the hotend.
gaunt quest
I'm trying to find a schematic for your toolhead board. It seems to be an older rev 2.
Do you have a multimeter handy?
old bay
I do
gaunt quest
Well, lets take some measurements if you are up for it, and feel like you can do it safely.
A probe slip can cause serious damage.
what does this say?
old bay
Well, lets take some measurements if you are up for it, and feel like you can do...
Unfortunately, I'm out for a couple days. I wanted to pop the microfits out of the MCU harness and reterminate them all and trace them out to make sure I didn't reverse one in the earlier replacement, but the microfits are impossible to remove, even WITH a tool. I broke off a terminal block on the molex connector, so I ordered 20 from digikey LOL. When they come in, I'm going to have to solder in an extension harness to give me more slack.
old bay
what does this say?
Says PROBE
gaunt quest
Unfortunately, I'm out for a couple days. I wanted to pop the microfits out of t...
Ok, maybe when you are back with the printer we can do some probing to figure out what's going on.
old bay
Ok, maybe when you are back with the printer we can do some probing to figure ou...
Well, the good news is once I get those connectors in a couple days, there will no doubt the harness is wired correctly. Thankfully, past me labeled the electronics compartment wiring, just not on the gantry side. So labeling them all was pretty trivial. This will rule out Thor's theory that maybe I put one of the connections back into the harness incorrectly. Hopefully it's as simple as.
I verified each lead with my fluke.
old bay
@bold shoal Looks like you were right. Redid the connector, and everything is working fine. Printing parts for the nitehawk, and galileo2 to avoid these issues in the future.