thorn otter
The heater has immense power, its normal that it overshoots a bit, it does that even on my bambu. If it overshoots more than 5c, limit your max power.
To determine the right sensor type you can either measure its resistance at a given temp or just use another thermostat to check if the temp is correct.
unkempt glen
I swapped out my heater cartridge on my dragon HF from a 40W to 50W to get better control of the heat when the parts cooling fan would kick on above 50-60% when printing with PLA+. Would have to manually limit the fan before the safeties would kick in and shutdown the printer. But I also found out that I could print at a little lower temps with the 50W heater (found that out when I did a temp tower), so even if it does overshoot a little, I wasn't too worried I'd have issues with the print. As [xe] said, as long as it's not overshooting an excessive amount, I don't think you should be worried. But I would run a temp tower to see if you can print at lower temps to see how much "wiggle room" you have as it relates to temp.
willow skiff
I tried to have the power limit set to .8 and before a print with TAP it heats to 150 the over shoots to 152 then back down to 148.4. It will continue to bounce back and forth between Temps so I can't even start a print.
unkempt glen
I tried to have the power limit set to .8 and before a print with TAP it heats t...
That's how the TAP works..... after all the probing, should raise to print temp.
willow skiff
No i know lol. Im saying that the hotend warms up to 150 for probing it over shoots and cools down to where it wont even start a QGL lol
whole salmon
At what temperature did you PID tune? If you did it at printing temp, tune again at 150C and see if it helps.
It it doesn't, you can try to modify the PID values (in the do not touch section at the bottom of the printer.cfg)
I suggest you cut all of them in half for a start. If you modify the values manually, do not directly go ahead and send it to printing temperature. Start at lower temps and see how the controller reacts first.
icy marsh
klipper sucks at Pid tuning tbh- dangerklipper algo better but i would not suggest installing it-
if you study PIDS you can perhaps fine tune that way; its not too hard to dampen its reactivity
but yes cutting power to 0.8 at first was probably a good move