z wobble?

[fleet basin]

Hi any idea what can cause this z wobble look on voron 2.4... bad filament consistency? It's pla from aurapool. The inconsistency is bit lower close to bed ...

[lapis iron]

It looks like it becomes more spaced out as layer sizes decreases. That leads me to believe its inconsistent filament diameter.
If that's Esun ABS+ Light blue it's even more likely in my experience. That is the worst filament I have ever used for diameter consistency.

[fleet basin]

its white PLA aurapol but its cheaper filament ...

and its on multiple layers together...

[fleet basin]

I also noticed that the corners lift up a bit when printing maybe this is the main cause?

[warm hemlock]

I don't think thats Z-Wobble, to me that just looks like incosistent extrusion,

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/issues/6

Which can be solved by installing IDGA or a Galileo 2 Extruder, tho it's hard to tell just from one image

[near notch]

Before going down extruder route always do a nozzle wiggle test, it is quick and easy.

Nozzle Wiggle
All 3D printer problems come down to one of three items:

1. XYZ position error
2. Extruder flow/volume error (including part cooling here)
3. Timing error
   Around 95%-99% of the time print errors are XYZ position errors, from bad mechanics. So always remove this from being a concern by homing your machine, then move/jog nozzle to middle bed and have nozzle about 50-100mm off the bed. With the nozzle cold grab the tip of the nozzle and wiggle. ANY play you have nozzle tip will show up in the prints. You want the nozzle to move less than 0.1mm in any direction.
   If you have voron tap moving the Z might be possible, try wiggling the X axis bar up and down to check Z movement. Also consider putting springs on voron tap to hold it down with more force.
   Wiggle the nozzle, not the head. The nozzle does the printing, so you want to check play in the nozzle relative to the bed.

After nozzle wiggle print a cylinder in vase mode, extruder flow issues should show up in the vase mode. In vase mode the extruder runs at constant flow rate, as such any periodic z banding will most likely be extruder gear issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6JmCdovE0U&t=280s

[fleet basin]

I dont think its extruder as its random... not patter. The wiggle nozzle test is good idea but seem stiff(dont have tab). I think the cause is insufficient flow of hotend or some other inconsistency in filament... . I do run V6 with CHC high flow clone

[near notch]

You might have already done this but, do a print of a cylinder in vase mode to see if there is a pattern. Looking for pattern when not in vase mode does not work for extruder flow inconsistency testing. In vase mode the XYZ movement is smooth and the extruder is set for constant flow rate. As such any flow disruptions from extruder will show up a periodic vertical artifacts as each loop around perimeter is the same distance of fliament, which is not the case wil normal prints.

[fleet basin]

Looks fine to me idk 😐

Little bit inconsistency but good enough..

Nothing close to this...

[near notch]

I was having simular issues and found that on my clockwork extruder the screw was loose that that holds motor to extruder, specifically the screw that sets the distance between gears. I fixed that and things were much better. I also increased my Revo temperature to be maximum for the filament and that helped with having more consistent flow. This made huge improvements on my prints.
I am now building a second steathburner head and moving to CAN. I want to be able to swap out head assemblies when I have problems to help isolate root causes. For the second head I am using an LGX extruder and Rapido nozzle.

Basically when it comes to 3D prints the problems are one of three areas:

1. XYZ position error
2. Extruder flow/volume error (including part cooling here)
3. Timing error
   Around 95%-99% of the time print errors are XYZ position errors, from bad mechanics. Usually the nozzle wiggle test finds my mechanical issues.

[fleet basin]

Jea same here going to test bambu hotend+ doing can...

[near notch]

So if yours is not extruder flow, it is going to be XYZ error.

[fleet basin]

I think it's a flow issue I run V6 + chc and pushing it too hard ..

[near notch]

A suggestion I got was to increase the nozzle temperature until prints start having issues, then back it back down.

[fleet basin]

I did a CNC kitchen poop test and found I losing up to 10% of flow in my printing range of flow rate ... Soo it must be the hot end not keeping up

[near notch]

Which extruder are you using? What is the current setting (amps) for the extruder in the printer.cfg?

I did the Ellis flow test here: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/determining_max_volumetric_flow_rate.html

Also check that your thermistor is setup correctly. If the thermistor is off the nozzle temperature will be off.

[fleet basin]

I do run clockwork2 current set to 0.5...