Galileo general information and discussion

[vague palm]

Wait for the XL is my vote. G2Z is for smaller printers from what I gather.

[robust forge]

hello. i have built a trident with the galileo 2 extruder and i cant get it to print decently. have got massive overextrusion as i did a basic extrusion test according to ellis printer tuning site, and told it to extrude 100 mm and it overshot. it went past my tape marker @ 120mm and just kept going

Please help?

[candid goblet]

I don't have full_steps_per_rotation, is that setting correct? Try commenting it out

[robust forge]

no difference

it extruded roughly 160mm on asking for 100

any chance i can see your printer.cfg please? just so i can see a full known good working file

[candid goblet]

step_pin: EBBCan: PD0
dir_pin: EBBCan: PD1
enable_pin: !EBBCan: PD2
microsteps: 16
gear_ratio: 9:1
rotation_distance: 47.088
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: EBBCan: PB13
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
sensor_pin: EBBCan: PA3
control: pid
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 299
max_extrude_only_distance: 101

# CALIBRATED SETTINGS
pid_Kp: 36.273
pid_Ki: 4.365
pid_Kd: 74.878
pressure_advance: 0.03         # Generic halfway between SF and HF; 31% fan

[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: EBBCan: PA15
run_current: 0.650
stealthchop_threshold: 999999```

as you can see, there's nothing much there. I just followed the instructions
https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2

[vague palm]

Are you sure your hobbed gear is not installed backwards? @robust forge

[candid goblet]

I think you need to ping @robust forge

[vague palm]

Oops yeap

[manic mantle]

Guys - do we need to change any pins on motor connector when connecting to BTT EBBCan ? I remember I had to change that on my original extruder motor ?

[vivid lantern]

is anyone running G2Z on a V2.4 300? I ordered the kit to just now realize there's a G2ZXL

[robust forge]

Figured it out. Was driver related

[manic mantle]

Holly Moley ..... I just assembled and installed my Galileo2 ... and guess what ? .... it works !! 😉

[vague palm]

Nope. Just check rotation direction and adjust in software

[candid goblet]

gonna try TPU for the first time now....

[livid acorn]

Hey all, I thought I saw a remote bowden extruder housing for the Galileo 2, but now I can't seem to find it. Any ideas what I may have seen?

[final shadow]

G2SA has a bowden version... There's a few configurations for it and they haven't been finished yet, so it's a thing, but not pushed out yet. If you want the files, let me know what size extrusions and where you plan to mount it on what printer (there's mirrored versions depending on side of the printer as well).

[stuck bough]

How did it go? I had to go to a Sherpa to get it to print, kept getting clogged in the gears.

[livid acorn]

oh ok nice! my printer is 2020 extrusions and I would be mounting it on the right side (it's not a voron though, it's a custom printer).

It currently has an orbiter 2 direct drive, but #1 I want to lighten the tool head, and #2 I have a G2SA on another printer and I really like everything about it, so yeah, I am thinking of swapping the orbiter to a remote bowden g2sa

[final shadow]

Let me get the files and I’ll send them over.

[candid goblet]

I could not get the filament to feed down into the hotend smoothly enough for it to not backup underneath the drive gears. My NoClogger just arrived, I'm going to try cleaning it out and trying again

[livid acorn]

Actually I just found them on your github 🙂 unless you have a more up to date version.

[livid acorn]

What retraction speed and acel are people running?

I run the orbiter 2 at 120mm/s. I assume the G2 can do the same?

[final shadow]

There may be some updates, but it would only be to mounting for modularity, so no real benefit.

[modest topaz]

A BIG Thank You to Jared for the G2E. Glad to report excellent results at the very first go even with a very casual building approach. It just worked right down to the e-steps. A very satisfying and rewarding experience.

[fast shell]

Do keep in mind that the extruder alone won't do much if your hotend cannot follow it.
120mm/s is somewhat slow, I have been printing on my LDO VT at 200mm/s 20-25mm3/s, no dramas.
I am pretty sure you can push it more but I prefer quality over speed so I am unlikely to find that out.

Also from what I gathered in the past, LDO Orbiter 2 is dual gear so folks after speed use it for that reason alone, some folks got their hotend RIP with a big ass blob because of it, the hotend didn't keep up but Orbiter wild grip kept pushing filament in.

[livid acorn]

Oh, I meant the retraction speed setting in the slicer.

[fast shell]

bruhhhh no idea within that context, I have my retraction set to 50mm/s on OrcaSlicer, to be honest I never spent much time on retraction, as long as it isn't stringing or little blobs, I am okay with it haha

[slate aurora]

Why so fast???

If you want to do something like that. Lower your PA smooth time instead

Need to retune pa when you change smooth time. Approximately half the pa at half the smooth time but it’s not purely linear

Default is .04 try .02 or .015

[livid acorn]

I'm confused on how retraction speed and PA are linked at all.

[slate aurora]

What reason do you have for 120mm/sec retractions

That just sounds way out of normal

[livid acorn]

I guess 120mm/s is actually normal for me because I had 3x printers with the orbiter 2 and that's what the doco says to use. Never had any issues.

[slate aurora]

Wait it does?

[livid acorn]

So my question to you is, why do you want to go so slow lol.

[slate aurora]

Ope well today I learned lol

I retract at 35mm/sec

Or 45

But also I retract like 0.1/0.2 distance

Maybe even less

Oh wow the docs have some very interesting values

I haven’t done a 1mm retraction ever on direct drive unless I was running TPU

[livid acorn]

Yeah my guess is they are playing it on the safe side to cover all printers.

[timid girder]

I just downloaded the new manual
For G2E
It says need to drill the filament pathway
Is that a must? And what for?

[livid acorn]

Depends how clean your printed parts came out. Push some filament through by hand to make sure it runs well.

G2 gear next to an Orbiter 2 gear.

[timid girder]

Thanks

[livid acorn]

The kit I just got in the mail came with a 2mm drill bit. I just ran it through by hand to remove any hidden burrs

The tolerances on this kit are so darn nice

Just a suggestion if the manual ever gets redone. I placed this bearing in first, then did these bolts up. In practice it probably doesn't matter. but I think there is more wiggle room in the bolt holes compared to the amazingly toleranced bearing, so I feel like the shaft should be aligned first then the bolts tightened.

[rare yacht]

I'd suggest another QOL improvement: chamfer the PTFE tube. This will ensure you have 100% filament loading success even for more flexible materials.

[odd glen]

Is this a bad motor? Just started happening.

[lethal drum]

Was the motor working previously? Did you change something? Like MCU or CAN board?

This sounds like wires are mismatched.

[odd glen]

Was working perfectly, nothing changed since install

[lethal drum]

https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/#stepper-motor-wiring

Both windings have continuity?

Do they have the same resistance?

[odd glen]

I will check, resistance

Seems like maybe there is a bad connector

tested with another motor and it worked, checking continuity it dropped for a second when moving the connector

thanks

[atomic haven]

Is g2z xl supposed to be "released" soon?

[pearl halo]

@atomic haven Jared pushed the STLs to Github
The places I've found online that have it state it is on pre-order.
Lab4450 says they're "restocking".
DREMC (Australia) says they have 1 left in stock.
Alchemy3d says they're expecting them around today.
So I guess soon lol

KB-3D says ~2 weeks they're guessing -- this is probably more realistic for the States methinks?

[final shadow]

Fabreeko should have them listed in the US as well

https://www.fabreeko.com/products/galileo-2-kits-by-ldo-g2e-g2z?_pos=1&_psq=Galil&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=45474236727551

[dense rapids]

hi, i wonder if this is "official"?

[final shadow]

Yes.

[viscid ember]

Should be here on Monday

[wraith patio]

@final shadow can i ask what is the recommended material for galileo extruder, i realised that when i use eSUN ABS+ for my Extruder, it deforms on the idler cover which dislodge the idler bearing from the housing

[final shadow]

ABS

[wraith patio]

right tks

[final shadow]

What’s deforming?

The hole inside the idler cover?

[scarlet rune]

I’m getting ready to upgrade my stealth burner with g2e + nitehawk usb, with umbilical running to the z chain.

I think I just need this part in addition to the g2e printed parts, is that right? Any other compatibility issues with g2e + nitehawk?

https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain

[final shadow]

JosAr’s mods still use the stepper as a mount point… would recommend against that one, but if it’s all that’s available, do what you gotta do.

[livid acorn]

I said the tolerances were tight on the kit, well after first assembly I actually had some binding somewhere. I managed to get it to run better by running the gears with a drill as per the manual, but it got me thinking... I am using this as a bowden setup so why not go crazy with the stepper motor.

[astral bronze]

eSun ABS+ is kinda shit. Used to be good

[wraith patio]

Yea its heading that direction in the recent batches

Any cheap abs filament u wanna recommend?

[astral bronze]

Sunlu is pretty good

[candid goblet]

That's the one that usually comes up.
That question is really for #filament though

[livid acorn]

https://youtube.com/shorts/Mi1mwZXIHHA?si=FcWzJwXvRANxt-s5

[livid acorn]

Frankenstein's Monster. Is it good? probably not. But I realised how this is almost like lego and couldn't resist assembling the Galileo 2 gearbox with the Orbiter 2.

[candid goblet]

I really want a G2 knob with swirls or something, like a piece of candy

maybe I should build an idex so i can print it

[livid acorn]

that would be cool

[livid acorn]

Ignore the black ABS slurry repairs

[lethal drum]

"How much torque?"
"Yes."

[livid acorn]

It does the job!

[high canyon]

When building the IRTrail Twinsor G2E, do I need to put a threaded insert into the bottom where the filament path is ?

[oak mesa]

Anyone know what the torque of g2 vs lgx lite is?

[livid acorn]

I don't know, but the rotation distance of the LGX lite is 5.7. The rotation distance for the G2 is 5.232. So the G2 probably has a bit more torque if they have similar stepper motors.

[high canyon]

Anyone able to help me out with IRTrail's twinsor ?

[slim fog]

What could cause print quality to be worse with G2E than with CW2? Left was printed a while ago with CW2 and right with G2E and the extrusion looks inconsistent on the G2E version. Other things like retightening Z and doing Ellis’ gantry squaring happened in between but it’s hard for me to not chalk this up to G2E…

[slim fog]

Confirmed it now. Left is G2E, right is CW2. Shouldn't G2E be more consistent? This is also after taking it apart and once again aligning everything again according to the latest version of the manual.

The CW2 version looks smoother than this IRL, actually.

[primal thistle]

Maybe the filament itself has worse tolerances for the later prints?

[slim fog]

No, this was printed with filament from the same roll. It really seems to be the extruder.

[alpine ridge]

Have you fine tuned esteps/em/pa? It could be that the extrusion ratio is off. Could also be extruder tension not ideally set.
I’m just spitballing here - I was having similar issues after swapping to the G2SA but after tuning a lot it’s been resolved and I’m getting really really clean extrusion since

[slim fog]

E-steps, EM and PA are all tuned

I don’t know what I would do with the tension

It seems counterintuitive that it would be more sensitive to tension than CW2

[alpine ridge]

Hm, sorry I don’t have much better advice beyond that - I’m a bit of an amateur still, but perhaps tension/ptfe run could be causing trouble?

[livid acorn]

That's crazy!

I guess you could use a dial indicator to make sure the G2 parts are perfect

Hopefully it's the printed parts that are causing the issues

[atomic haven]

What benefit would G2ZXL have over the stock Z movement system that comes on the V2?

[slate aurora]

More compact for electronics

Idk the torque on the xl but may also reduce gantry sag

[final shadow]

Should be zero gantry sag on basically every size V2…. But also increased resolution (arguably not needed), less space taken up in the electronics bay, easier parts to print, and uses the Trident skirts, which IMO look better than the V2 skirts.

[slate aurora]

The gantry sag is real

Especially when many people here use GE5C joints lmao

I had them. You can visibly see it happen when de-energizing the motors

[final shadow]

Yeah the GE5C’s were a good idea at the time, but cause more issues than they fixed.

[slate aurora]

It is significantly significantly reduced using rigid Z joints

And even better with metal gantry hardware

[final shadow]

With G2ZXL, you can use them again.

[slate aurora]

NOOOOOOO

lol I like the G2Z tho, it’s cool

[final shadow]

You can also use G2ZXL for a 300 Trident, and hold 3 KG of filament on top of the bed, with zero drop…

[slate aurora]

I might do worm z

But yeah it looks super helpful for trident for sure

[final shadow]

Worm Z was tested a long time ago… they’re loud as hell, have a pretty significant backlash, and they can bend the X extrusion if you crash the bed.

[slate aurora]

You can also pull extrusions on the frame out of place!

There is no weakness in this dojo

Full send

[final shadow]

https://tenor.com/view/sendittt-gif-10959017

[slate aurora]

Could also play with the worm with a double vs single start

But that’s not Galileo so I’ll stop now lol

[final shadow]

Fair enough.

[high canyon]

Can anyone confirm if I need to put a M3 threaded insert into the bottom of the G2E in the filament path ?

[candid goblet]

Hmmm, what? Perhaps you're referring to the spot where you're supposed to have a small section of PTFE tubing?

[high canyon]

Sorry, this is for IRTrail's Twinsor, it's the filament path where it meets the hotend ducting/hotend mount.

[candid goblet]

oh, ok, I don't even know what that means.

[high canyon]

I saw in the filametrix docs, it says to install one, but in the IRTrails doc, I don't see any mention of it.

[high canyon]

https://github.com/IRTrail/G2E-Filametrix/tree/main/Extruder and Cutter Parts/Twinsor/STL

https://github.com/sorted01/Filametrix?tab=readme-ov-file#main-body-1

@candid goblet See the difference ?

[candid goblet]

Ha yeah, from a normal SB. Definitely can't be answering any questions about this setup myself

[high canyon]

Seems like it would be good to add it. The depth is 4mm, which is the same as a M3 threaded insert..

[candid goblet]

I've never installed G2E in a SB either....

[high canyon]

So that's my delima.. I need to figure out if I need that insert in the G2E IRTrail Twinsor setup..

[candid goblet]

Perhaps there's another discord with more the right users?

[high canyon]

Yea, I haven't been able to find one.. Got any ideas ? LOL

[blazing ice]

How are you guys with SB2209's securing the umbilical?

I found a PG7 by hartk in the mods folder, but I don't like the two big bends you have to run the cable through, and it also means ripping the whole cable out just to fit the gland

[clever bear]

trying to figure out why the gear ratio is 9 to 1. The sun is 9 teeth and the gear housing is 72. I get 8 to 1. Am i doing the math wrong.

[livid acorn]

confirmed

it must be something to do with the 3 gears in the middle

[clever bear]

yeah i found an equation that reflects a 9 to 1 guess it is something with the middle gear

[clever bear]

found a video that derived the equation i am good thanks

[chilly swift]

I don't have the ge2, but just out of curiosity, did you find the problem? Also, do you have TAP? I found after repairing my printhead (the Tap part keeps melting from my dragon hotend...) the printhead seems to have much more play in X from the tap rail...

[slim fog]

No tap. Given that when I switched to G2E print quality became worse, and after I switched back to CW2, it became better again, I can’t imagine it’s anything other than the G2E causing it. No idea why and nobody here seems to know.

[timid wing]

well someone suggested the tension screw is too tight. It is more sensitive, it's also outlined in the manual on page 46. Did you ever set it properly?

[slim fog]

I actually never did now that you say it. What makes it more sensitive than CW2 from a mechanical point of view?

Will definitely try experimenting with that.

[timid wing]

What makes it more sensitive than CW2 from a mechanical point of view?

I don't know, I'm not the designer or a mechanical engineer.

[slim fog]

Thanks either way!

[chilly swift]

Let us know your results! I am thinking about "upgrading" to GE2. I am not too pleased with the cw2, even with the upgraded bondtech gear.

[mild lintel]

Does anyone have an idea about this: I have two Galileo 2 setups. One GE2 in a Stealthburner, one WWG2 on XOL. Both Rapido 2 UHF hotends. The WWG2 is fine with all kinds of filament, CF-ASA, PCCF, you name it. The GE2 will just... stop extruding. No grinding of the filament, it was tight to start with, but it just starts to slip. What could be going on? I have noticed that the GE2 setup gets extremely hot, yet it runs freely.

[blissful widget]

I had lots of issues with Rapido heat break to heat sink interface being not perfectly aligned and jamming all the time. Maybe it's not the extruder?

[mild lintel]

Maybe, but I swapped the hotends and it stuck with the GE2. Could be the alignment in that toolhead, I guess.

[hardy dagger]

I’m a little bit unclear on why gantry sag is a problem. Shouldn’t QGL level out the gantry when you start a print anyway or is it something else?

i’ve been using G2Z on a 350 mm V2 since they were available and i’m not sure if i should get G2ZXL. I also see that I can buy an XL LDO 9-tooth motor directly, are there any other non-printed parts needed to upgrade to XL if i have a normal G2Z and i use the planetary gearbox from that?

looking at the printed parts for XL it seems like it’s only the motor mount and gear housing, so maybe?

[dusk shuttle]

On bigger printers G2Z is not only sagging but sinking completely to the bed.

[hardy dagger]

maybe i’ve been lucky, i haven’t seen anything close to that

[hard inlet]

Does anyone know if there are any plans for a ercf v2 update to the Gallileo 2? I really like the quality I'm getting and I don't want to go back to my cw2

[slate aurora]

Wdym? Why can’t you use g2?

You don’t have to have a toolhead sensor?

[scarlet rune]

I’m not sure exactly what the ercf/g2e compatibility issue is, but I’m planning to build my g2e into this tool head mod, in anticipation of a mmu system in the future:

https://github.com/IRTrail/G2E-Filametrix

[wraith patio]

Hey can i check if u still hv this problem? Cos i also hv with this issue when it stops extruding

[hard inlet]

Thanks, yeah I know you can run it without, but more sensors are better righr?

[hard inlet]

Yep, just reached out to silverback and he said that this can be used without the filametrix, which is what I wanted to do

[slate aurora]

Eh yeah and no. There is the filament encoder

[wraith patio]

Yea

[hard inlet]

True, I'm currently running one, but I'm sure two sensors working in tangent probably serve the same function more or less

[oak mesa]

If I have to buy an extruder motor anyway ($45) I imagine it would be worth it to just go full g2 ($90 ish) right? Aus prices. Think my cw2 extruder is faulty

[livid acorn]

it's a pretty nice kit! I vote yes.

[mild lintel]

So... I reprinted the whole extruder, and it seems like that solved the issue. Something was out of tolerance.

[oak mesa]

Hmmm it’s very tempting

Does it have more grip/torque than cw2?

[livid acorn]

I'm not sure, it's single drive gear, so maybe not, but the gear is bigger than the cw2, so maybe.

[high canyon]

I'm in the process of getting this installed. Building my ERCFv2 right now..

[scarlet rune]

Nice! Let me know if you have any issues / advice for the tool head. I have my g2e and nitehawk now so I’ll start building it soon. Gonna do tradrack for mmu though

[high canyon]

I have G2E w/ IRTrail's Twinsor, nitehawk sb..

[scarlet rune]

How are you mounting the umbilical? This one?

https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain

[high canyon]

I don't remember now..

[cunning geyser]

In going to the G2ZXL, would you recommend getting away from the GE5C mod? Is there any other preferred mod such as the Annex re-enforced gantry mounts or do you just prefer stock? Just surprised as I had never heard that GE5C introduced any additional issues.

[manic mantle]

https://www.printables.com/model/877290-pg7-mount-for-galileo2

[blazing ice]

Did you just de pin the U2C end of the cable and run everything through the PG7?

[scarlet rune]

Thanks! Yours looks better as it doesn’t use the motor bolt to mount

[manic mantle]

I'm not sure I fully understand your question

[wide belfry]

That's a great tip. I just built mine, haven't tested.

Something I noticed though. The MR148 bearing snapped into place on the housing
But in the cover, it was a slip fit. Are these holes the same size in the CAD? I print with 0.1mm xy hole comp and wonder if that's what caused it. But wanted to make sure that both bearing bores are the same diameter in the CAD before reprinting.

[grave ember]

Guys I have just assembled the extruder from the LDO kit, and I have an extra piece left over ) This blue plastic thing, it says on the bag "ECA504 Bowden Coupler" I don't understand where it goes, there is no word about it in the manual) who knows why it is needed?

[astral bronze]

is this a picture of YOUR G2E? assuming not since you said you have it leftover.
there are 2 front bodies. with and without it. it's preference whether or not you use it

[grave ember]

Yes I have already downloaded the model and saw that this cowpatch is exactly where it should be inserted, just wasn't sure if it's from here. Uh, thank you.

[alpine ridge]

I’m having a lot of trouble with my G2SA lately. The stepper assembly seems to work its way loose over time, and I have this rubbing against the printed part that seems to happen.

I noticed this was happening a few days ago, and did a rebuild of the extruder, and also gently but firmly press fit the bearings back into their housings. They seem to have worked their way back to bulging out though and I’m not sure if this is the cause of my issues.

One last thing - when the extruder is fully assembled, the front knob never seems to be flush with the front of the g2sa. It’s crooked. Like the stepper drive isn’t straight.

Is this indicative that something is wrong with my printed parts? Or did I do something terribly wrong during assembly? I’ve rebuilt it quite a few times now, and I thought I was really careful with following instructions.

Sorry for the wall of text, I’m sort of stumped.

[alpine ridge]

Now I’ve fully reassembled from step 1 - and this is what I was talking about with the knob being crooked

During reassembly I press fit each bearing into the housings, which I did last time I reassembled as well. I’ll get the extruder back up and running for initial tests and to reprint all of the parts in case of them being a problem

[wide belfry]

I wonder if your printer has skew. Someone else suggest tightening the screws a specific order so that the bearing guides the motor rather than bolting the housing to the motor and then forcing the bearings to fit

[alpine ridge]

Thanks for the suggestion, I overtightened this time, so I’ll need to reprint anyway - do you happen to know which order to tighten in?

[wide belfry]

#1160715888048218193 message

[alpine ridge]

Thanks!

I actually tightened it up in that order on the last reassembly as well as just now

[copper estuary]

Is the shaft actually misaligned or is the knob just going on at an angle?

[alpine ridge]

The shaft is misaligned, the knob just helps demonstrate it

I have no idea why though, every time I rebuild it, I get the same result

[copper estuary]

How does it turn? mine when assembled turns buttery smooth without any catches.

[alpine ridge]

It turns quite smoothly. There’s one section that occasionally feels a bit rougher though, and that tends to be exacerbated when I tighten down the screws holding the stepper to the main body nice and snug. If I back off a bit it goes back to smooth

[copper estuary]

@alpine ridge For me that resistance when tightening down is a sign that its not quite properly aligned. It can be a very small bit off to cause issues. Are you using the injection molded parts or the printed ones from the first batches? I know that the way the motor gear is inserted in between the Planet gears has to be just right. Did you see @final shadow video on assembly?

The injection molded parts require a bit of force to get the gear housing seated against the motor.

[alpine ridge]

It’s the injection molded parts. The bearings are a very tight fit into their housings, and I needed to clamp them in with my wrench pliers to get them seated correctly.

I’m going to watch the video from Jared to ensure I’m doing it correctly, and do a rebuild since I reprinted the parts last night. Thank you for the help, I think you put me on the right track to solve this

[alpine ridge]

Well I rebuilt again today with new printed parts, and I'm facing the same issue again. I followed Jared's video for assembling the injection molded parts. Before I screw in the stepper to the main body, the gears spin smoothly, but once I tighten the screws to finger tight, the binding occurs. I made a video on the other galileo thread since it seems more active there. #voron_galileo_open message

[peak mason]

When I had this problem in the past it turned out the 3d-printed parts were slightly warped. After reprinting the FDM-parts correctly the problem went away.

[alpine ridge]

I think I have it solved thanks to the advice I got on the other channel, sorry for cross posting here. I wasn't sure the best place to post and the other channel seemed much more active

[wide belfry]

does anyone know if the G2SA step / CAD files are available? I only see the stealthburner one

[dire stone]

Not available yet

[hoary inlet]

is G2 compatible with CW1 or CW2 printheads?

[candid goblet]

Yes, drop-in replacement inside a Stealthburner
Note that the toolhead is Stealthburner, the extruder is CW2/G2

[slim fog]

So I've been having problems with the extrusion consistency of my G2E compared to the CW2 that I upgraded from. Because of this, I rebuilt it from scratch with fresly printed parts and made sure to adjust the filament tension properly. It was an improvement but I would still say the CW2 looks better. The CW2 also has wood grain but since it's a much "bigger" pattern it does look smoother. The G2E wood grain is very small in scale, quickly repeating. I've been hearing that G2E should eliminate this.

However, I noticed when assembling that when I tightened the screws that hold the motor and gear housing together, I got some vague binding. I tried multiple times to make sure the gears were meshing properly and each time, it was very smooth until I tightened the motor screws down. Has anyone else experienced this? What could be the the cause?

[slim fog]

@final shadow Is the shim necessary? I noticed that the shaft was binding ever so slightly once I tightened the motor screws down (G2E) and I also noticed that there was absolutely no play in the shaft. I removed the shim and it was spinning a lot smoother with every so slight play. It still wasn't as good quality as my CW2, however. The CW2 had a more regular wood grain but was also smoother. The G2E layer looked more "noisy" but also not as smooth...

[livid acorn]

My takeaway from this chat is that designing a product that relies on people to print their own parts is a nightmare. There is no way of knowing if a lot of these issues could be from issues with the printed parts.

[sage widget]

on G2E yes it's needed

also there should be absolutely no binding

the shaft should rotate freely all around with the motor installed

[alpine ridge]

In my case the printed parts were not the problem. My assembly was due to a misunderstanding of the manual.

[slim fog]

Well obviously. What I’m saying is that it’s smoother without the shim. It shouldn’t be, as far as I understand.

It didn’t make a difference in print quality however.

[wide belfry]

Thats a good tip. If you can't rotate the shaft / planets from the front nipple, something is off.

In my case there was the ever smallest nub that rubbed agaisnt the planetary gear housing that would make the shell swell as it rotates. Another issue I had was a misaligned drive gear (filament path).

Overall it works great, but I get the same quality as the orbiter v2. I was sad, hoping for an extreme upgrade lol, but now I have two great extruders, absolutely no wood grain.

I did have to bump current to 0.8 to match the orbiter.

[slim fog]

Right now it looks like I might give up on G2E and just go back to CW2 but upgrade to IDGA components

[scarlet rune]

I’ve got my g2e installed and working well so far. In the past I’ve always had a latch on the extruder that I used for filament change, so I would always push the filament all the way to the hotend. Now I can’t do that. I tried to just push it down as far as it would go then let the extruder load it, but that seems inconsistent, sometimes it doesn’t grab it unless I’m there pushing the filament. But it’s annoying to have to wait for hotend temp just to load filament. Any tips on best process, or macros to help? I have filament sensors before and after extruder if that opens up any possibilities… could I override min extrude temp when the “after extruder” filament sensor is empty?

[candid goblet]

G2E on SB?
All I can say is that G2SA has a nice knob that allows you to do what you want.

[scarlet rune]

Yes on SB. I have the knob… should I be loosening it to load filament? I’m used to never touching that on cw2 because I had set it with an adjustment process.

[candid goblet]

No, this knob, it manually drives it.
But SA requires moving away from SB so it was just a side comment really

[scarlet rune]

oh that would be nice. I tinkered with it some more and apparently this piece sticking out can be used to push down and open up the filament path. it takes quite a bit of force but i guess its workable.

[candid goblet]

Mmmm, yeah, I often just put my hand in there and help a little. I printed the wrong part without the coupler to keep the tube inserted, otherwise I am pretty sure I can just push the filament from the outside as it feeds. You can't do that? Push from the source to provide just enough to get the teeth to engage it and pull it in?

[scarlet rune]

I do have some macro ideas though, since I have filament sensors before and after the extruder. like if the 'before' sensor goes F->T, automatically start running the extruder until the 'after' extruder is triggered. Just need a way to override min extrude temp so I can do it even when not hot. I think the 'after' sensor will make that safe

[scarlet rune]

yeah that works but requires the hotend being up to temp so the extruder can run, and sending the extrude command on the screen. I'm lazy I want to just push the filament in. I do lots of manual filament swaps (for now... trad rack parts on the way)

[candid goblet]

Oh right of course - you mentioned overriding allowing filament feed when cold. Yeah I have considered that as well, but am not going to do it

[scarlet rune]

I guess i'll give it a try, an automatic load script that loads the filament from the top sensor to the bottom one. It would be really convenient for me. Seems I dont need to override min extrude temp (not possible anyway), I can use force_move.

[slate aurora]

I know it costs money but you could always setup belay!

If you have the space for an extra driver on your MCU

[scarlet rune]

I have parts for tradrack + filamentalist on the way... so that should solve this. I just wrote a simple delayed_gcode that gets called on insert_gcode by the top filament sensor, and extrudes until the bottom sensor triggers. if it works it should be really nice

[slate aurora]

Sweeeet

[scarlet rune]

Auto loading works! Here it is: #voron_video_showcase message

[vague palm]

There’s something up with your either assembly, printed parts or the stepper motor. Should have significantly better quality than the CW2…

[candid goblet]

Gosh, that would be a shame

[eager arrow]

Will the g2 work with flexible filamentd?

[candid goblet]

I tried TPU and it didn't work. Could be my setup though. I've got a Orbiter2 for my next printer and am curious to give it a try because it has a more constrained filament path

[eager arrow]

oof

Maybe I should do 1 printer with sherpa mini or something just to have a printer that can do tpu

[candid goblet]

I don't see why G2 wouldn't work, I feel it has to do with my filament path

I feel a G2 path is not really worse than a Prusa and it works fine on a Prusa

[eager arrow]

Haven't touched a prusa in a while but doesn't it use the 2x bondtech gears

[candid goblet]

Yeah, well....
Honestly when I failed in my G2 attempt, the filament was bunching up below the drive gear.

[eager arrow]

I think I remember the extruder on my mk3(maybe s? Def not s+) fucking up on tpu and the filament went out the side

[candid goblet]

I had zero issues on my Mk3S.
That's why I think it's really about making adjustments and eliminating problems, not just switching to another extruder

[eager arrow]

I wi now use bowden for 50a tpu

[slim fog]

Yeah, something is wrong with something but I have found nothing that really helps. I have printed it and reassembled it twice, following every step in the manual

Something I have noticed is that there seems to be too little clearance in the planetary housing. Without the shim, it spins much more freely but it doesn't really help my print quality. If I add the shim, it's really tight in there and it doesn't spin well unless I only tighten the motor screws really loosely.

[slim fog]

Some progress has been made: I measured all the relevant parts of the gearbox assembly and compared the measurements to the CAD model. What I found was that the planetary gear thickness with the bearings was supposed to be 5 mm but was actually 5.2 - 5.3 mm. It seems the bearings were not seated well. I made sure to push them in as hard as possible and that gave me < 5.1 mm for all of them. The gears now spin freely even when the motor is tightened down.

Quality is still not up to expectations though.

[jolly surge]

Guys which Stealthburner Body is used with the G2E? The Standard one from the Voron Repository or do i need a special one? And does anyone know where to find a mount for the EBB36 Can with the G2E?

[timid wing]

Standard one

[jolly surge]

Thank you

[dense niche]

Just built my g2 and was wondering where can I get a door for the g2 that will fit the nitehawk as the on the nitehawk repo doesn’t work with the g2

[final shadow]

Use the stock G2 door.

[scarlet rune]

What umbilical mount do you use (if any)? That can effect door choice also

[dense niche]

Will print it out and try 😊

[dense niche]

Thanks it worked 😀

[final shadow]

Awesome! And that’s a great color combo!

[dense niche]

Cheers, its been a year in the making 😂 . Only really been building it now and getting the abs printed atm for the enderwire

[eager arrow]

Galileo

[hoary inlet]

does the hartk pg7 mount for galileo work for 2.4? i saw something about it extending back too far and hitting the rear cable chain?

[scarlet rune]

it will. use this one https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain

[hoary inlet]

awesome, thanks

[scarlet rune]

Do you have backers? If you do there’s also an issue with most of the A motor mount umbilical mounts

[hoary inlet]

i do have backers yes but i was going to run the umbilical through the filter on back top corner of the printer

[scarlet rune]

Ok should be fine then

[hoary inlet]

right now it has no support anywhere lol, just hanging out, pinched between the back panel and the frame, running down behind the back of the printer

eventually i want to route it through the nevermore max that i'll finish one day.. eventually

if they stop redesigning the whole thing over and over lol

[glad compass]

Hi, does someone have the step files for the Galieo extruder Standalone? I want to redesign the main body to help the fixing a EBB36 PCB to the rear and I don't like the ones that only have the motor screw and wanted to add one more.

[dense island]

Cad not released for g2sa yet, but you could use wwg2 which does have it and is similar

https://github.com/tetsu97/WristWatch-G2-Extruder/tree/main/CAD

[glad compass]

Thanks, I was hopefull to have somewere the parts for the galileo 2 s but this may work! I'll print back the parts then 😛

well it looks like the EBB mount has what I was looking for and has 3 mounting points! thx

[eager arrow]

Goes g2 have hardened gears like you have with all the aftermarket bmg gears?

[wide belfry]

West3d shot me an email saying the kit they pulled from the shelf has a hardened RNC coating.

[hexed steeple]

when I insert the motor into the panetary gears it is very hard to move and my motor is skipping even without filament

is there a known issue with galileo 2 kits ?

[sage widget]

you didn't assemble it correctly then

the motor should go in freely without much force and then rotating by hand the motion needs to be smooth as well

[wide belfry]

it is SUPER picky for any misalignment. You should be able to manually spin the entire assembly using the front knob. If you can't do that, you will be underextrusion / skips with little resistance.

[hexed steeple]

any tips to align it properly ?

[copper estuary]

Jared has a video on the assembly of the G2 that explains it very well.

[hexed steeple]

thanks I will check that

[eager arrow]

The ldo kit?

[wide belfry]

Yes? The box says "Galileo 2 Extruder Kit ... By LDO Motors (LDO-VRN-G2E) UPC 6975415151224"

[eager arrow]

Hope it gives me a good working life with particle filled filaments

[untold thistle]

I'm building a stealthburner with the G2E and FLY SB2040 v3 CAN, I have a couple questions. Does anyone know if that PCB will fit the G2E stealthburner printer parts natively, know of corrected printed parts otherwise? Other question is has anyone seen any other covers with a PCB cooling fan beside this one?

https://www.printables.com/model/682981-g2e-galileo-2-cover-for-canbus-pcb-sb2040-sb2209-a/comments

[untold thistle]

Right, I read that part, doesnt really address my question if the G2E stealthburner printed parts will natively fit the fly 2040 PCB without any issues. Just wondering if I missed/overlooked something on that front.

[slate aurora]

The SB2040 is made to fit specifically stealthburner

Like all stealthburner specific PCBs

[untold thistle]

Right right, just covering bases. I thought I saw someone mention something about fitment changing somewhere with the G2E printed parts vs vanilla SB, maybe I'm misremembering

[jolly surge]

Any ideas why the G2E is stringing that much? Didn’t change anything else except for the Extruder from Orbiter v2 to G2E. Maybe the Feederscrew too loose?

[jolly surge]

I changed the nozzle for slightly better results

[jolly surge]

And with a different Filament stringing only occurs above 1mm of retraction. Maybe the first filament was just too wet

[pearl halo]

Yeah I can’t imagine G2E is at issue here?

[candid goblet]

Ha ha, I was just going to half joke and say your filament is wet. But it might be....

[jolly lynx]

For G2Z XXL do I need the F623-2rs bearing, and if so where do they go

[hexed steeple]

I really don't get it .... everytime I try to push the 2 parts together, it is not smooth anymore

[final shadow]

Nope, they're for Micron, they just include the same parts from G2Z.

[hexed birch]

hello all, i'm working on assembling the G2E and i'm on page 30 of the manual where it is telling you to make sure the ring gear housing snaps onto the pancake motor. i have an ldo kit, and i cannot get this thing to snap, and not sure if its needed on ldo kit or what... anyone run into this yet?

[eager arrow]

What is this 1mm layer heights?

[amber surge]

Don't suppose anyone has come out with a filament sensor for the g2sa yet have they? 🙂

[final shadow]

There's no CAD for G2SA out, so, likely not, and if so, certainly not supported. WWG2 does have both CAD and a filament sensor avaialble though.

[final shadow]

There's ONLY LDO kits available, so yes, it should snap into place. My video shows it as well, it's in the pins.

Actually, it didn't get pinned... I'll repost it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxGLRAeOnDc

[hexed birch]

thank you for the reply... my kit... doesn't seem to have to snap.. it sits far as i can tell, flush with the housing, and wont fall off

[final shadow]

So long as it's flush, it should be okay.

[hexed birch]

your vid was perfect to illustrate it, but again, i dont have a gap requiring a snap

ty sir!

[jolly surge]

Those where all .4 brass nozzles

[untold thistle]

What grease are we supposed to use for the gearbox? The instructions do not specify the EP2 or PTFE Superlube, not seeing anything in the videos or on the github either. May want to pin the answer and/or amend that part of the instructions.

[candid goblet]

Wow, as per usual, hard to get a straight answer.
#1160715888048218193 message

I would tell you what I used, but I have forgotten, I'm sure I read here then tried to decide

Someone is #garage_sale did give me some high temp grease, I kinda wish I would have used that

[untold thistle]

Ah thanks, I wasn't coming up with anything on a search, Mike said he used superlube. We are instructed to use superlube for the original clockwork, so I think I'll go ahead with that. Would like the official word from Jared or dev on it, a lot easier to apply than to remove the grease.

[candid goblet]

I'm 💯 sure I did not use Superlube though - I'm trying to keep my use of PTFE in this world to a minimum

[untold thistle]

Damn nice assembly you put together here, can't wait to try it @final shadow

[final shadow]

Basically anything will work, but silicone grease is “spec”. For what it’s worth, G1 doesn’t call for a specific grease either.

[untold thistle]

I had never looked up the technical data on that superlube til now, that's some good stuff by the numbers. I don't regret adding it, that oil separation factor was my concern at the thought of EP2. I might have to try this stuff in the automotive world. Good compatibility for something like suspension components too it looks like, rated up to 260C is impressive. Thanks.

[copper estuary]

Which Super Lube is recommended? Looking on Amazon there are a couple different ones...
Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.

I want to give it a try in my new G2ZXLs but not sure which is best?

[pearl halo]

Yep, the 92003 one.

[copper estuary]

⭐

[mild fossil]

ive been using the 21030 but mostly because that is the tube I had on hand.

btw how are the G2ZXLs? I have been having good results with the non XLs on a 350mm 2.4.

I did have some teething issues in that if you are not careful and tighten the screws too much it does bind, but once I resolved that it runs real smooth and is quieter than the stock Z drive.

(I file tightening too much as user error, probably did not need to HULK BUILD them XD )

[copper estuary]

I just got the kits... and have not started my 2.4 rebuild yet so cant say but I am excited to give them a go!

[mild fossil]

I should note that in my 2.4 rebuild, I also printed the parts for and rebuilt the stock Z.

the G2Z is whats in the machine but I decided to just be on the sure side and have a whole functional Z drive assembly set on hand.

[mild fossil]

G2E also makes some fantastic good layers.

[untold thistle]

All I had on hand was 21030, so I used that. Next time I take it apart to lube, or go to use superlube in automotive application, I'll review their other options techsheets. It looks like 21030 isn't the best option they offer for the application, but still plenty good enough for now. Still no oil drop out, so it won't drip into the rest of the toolhead and make a mess of things/compromise plastics like a conventional grease might.

https://www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/TDS/Technical_Data_Sheet_Multi_Purpose_Grease.pdf

[eager arrow]

does the galileo use ep2 grease in the planetary gears?

😛

[candid goblet]

scroll up to yesterday it was discussed

[eager arrow]

Ye I was joking

Actual possible issue, the m3x20 screw for the tensioner arm is too long even when only screwed flush to the surface of the top part

[eager arrow]

apparently I had a part flipped

[hexed steeple]

can soemone send me a picture of their cable chain setup with galileo 2 + stealthburner please ? thanks

[grizzled talon]

any tips for TPU? So far the only successful print I have had is with the tension screw backed out to the point its almost fallen out, and even then I have extrusion issues, trying a 95A TPU at 10mm/s. which should be acheivable

[merry wharf]

Is it odd for me to need to bump up my EM for my filament settings going from CW2 to G2E? I had fine settings before at 98% but am now needing to do 100%, maybe higher.

[candid goblet]

@odd star Why are you trying to buy a G2E off AliE for $50, when list price is down near $45?

[devout patio]

Im honestly not even sure if you should lubricate the gears. Virtually every other extruder runs dry, even metal on metal contact between the feed gears. The only extruder gears that asks for being greased are lgx pro gears, because they are hardened steel all the way, even the intermediate gear. The manual of the non pro lgx doesn't specify the use of grease in the plastic gears (PBT gf20).

[formal kindle]

I started having extrusion issues with my G2SA, with the filament slipping. I finally saw that I had a crack in the tensioner arm near the hinge screw hole. I replaced the arm with another one I had handy and no more slippage. I'm just mentioning this in case somebody searches for Galileo slippage. I found the question asked but not answered a few times.

[amber surge]

Wondering if anyone has filament sensored a g2sa yet?

[devout patio]

https://www.printables.com/model/915495-g2lw

I made this one, but no sensors, i dont like them. Above gears is not precise enough to base loading on them and below gears compromises tpu performance too much for me.

[main bear]

Someone know if I can build a G2 extruder from orbiter 1.5? Or where can I self source all the gears?

G2 kit are so expensive, I can buy a orbiter 2 for cheaper 🙂

[slate aurora]

No

Different assembly, different motor, different filament gear

[main bear]

But if i use a different motor and just on one gear?

[slate aurora]

I wouldn’t bother lmao

Just make something custom at that point

[lethal drum]

Use Orbiter 2 then 🙂 it's also a great extruder.
You can build Galileo 1 from Orbiter 1.5 though.
Jared may get to making G1 to G2 conversion but you will still need larger gears from G2.

[odd star]

does the stl from the g2e git hub work with sb2209?

[untold thistle]

Anyone with G2E stealthburner, can you tell me how much space there is between the back of the extruder motor and the rear panel with the gantry all the way to the rear please?

This is less than 5mm longer than the cable chain anchor, but better to find out now that it won't fit.

Test print looks good. CAN harness strain relief.

[empty dove]

Is there a stealthburner can cover for the g2e with both a thermistor holder and a fan mount? Ive been searching around on printables and can only seem to find one or the other

@untold thistle i actually orefer this can mount for g2e, less bulky and helps with some wire management https://thangs.com/designer/MandicReally/3d-model/Galileo 2 PG7 Cable Gland Mount - FITS Voron 2.4! M12 too!-997737, youll need to either print the 20mm spacers or get some from amazon, bit its made dissasembly and reassembly of everything much easisr, especially when you dont have to completely dissect your can cable to do it

[untold thistle]

Thanks, I was considering going with that design. I really liked Jared's mounting solution for the cable chain mounts and wanted to get better acquainted with f360 anyway, so here I am with this. I have another design idea I'm brainstorming on for an even more minimal CAN harness retention/strain relief, just have to put pen to paper on it.

[placid night]

I'm getting a subtle wood grain pattern with my G2E. It's still massively better than my Clockwork 2. I'm about to rebuild it regardless, my parts are from beta and I now want a bowden coupler. Hopefully that solves it, but if not, what should I be looking out for inside that could cause this?

[peak mason]

#1160715888048218193 message

[woeful oracle]

When recalibrating nozzle is the rotation distance different than what the manual says to update it to? Or leave that rotation distance that is provided

[main bear]

Sweet, who is this Jared? I want a conversion plz 🙂 So bigger gear = better print quality? And small gear dont fits, but you can mod it for small gear?

[peak mason]

Jared's the creator of the Galileo2.

[bright trench]

did anyone already do a nitehawk36 upgrade on their G2E?

anything i should look out for?

[timid girder]

Just finished putting together the g2sa
Bur having difficulty installing the knob
I can see it has built in support inside
So i am guessing i have to remove it?

[final shadow]

Not sure what you printed that one, but everything you have there is majorly over-extruded, including the knob. The knob should push straight on, no removal of anything.

[candid goblet]

agree - there are no supports on that knob - all those waves on your walls are probably overextrusion squishing

[timid girder]

Had someone print these for me
As my extruder gave away

[final shadow]

What part of the world are you in?

[timid girder]

Bahrain

[candid goblet]

Do you think you can acquire the parts again but printed better?
You might be able to just sand down places which have poor fit. Toolheads really are the place where you want accurate printing though....

[final shadow]

I mean if it’s just the knob, use those parts to print a new G2SA…

[candid goblet]

Yeah, was only worried about clearances on the rest of it. The knob isn't needed at all

[timid girder]

Rest of the parts snaps perfectly

Only the knob is tight

[oak mesa]

Thinking of buying a g2e for my 2.4 soon but wondered if anyone has gone from lgx lite to g2 and able to say if it was worth it

[placid night]

Try out Mihai's extrusion test print, and see if you get a pattern first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32dTLRNIYmw&t=615s&ab_channel=MihaiDesigns

[oak mesa]

Awesome will do ty! But also curious if there is any difference in strength between the 2

Couldn’t find any info online

[warm quiver]

Yes there is a difference. I have a rapido hf and my lgx lite would skip at higher flow. The G2 doesn't. has lots of torque

[oak mesa]

Oh wow that’s amazing! Definitely going to grab one then. Ty so much

[lusty pulsar]

I'm getting wavy lines in my prints on a StealthBurner G2E. Standard Revo Voron hotend. BTT SB2209 toolhead board connected to an Octopus Max EZ via CAN bus.

I'm going to ask this of the wider audience here (I do have a thread here: https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1253499149421117534) ... This is my first stealthburner and I'm running it on an Ender 3 S1 frame, about the only original parts left aside from the frame are the motors. Using Kevinakasam's belted Z mod, linear rails on the Z and Y axes. I've done all the calibrations I know to do, based on both Ellis' guide and teachingtech. I've disassembled and reassembled twice just to be sure everything is put together properly according to the instructions. The only calibration I haven't completed yet is input shaping - working on that tonight.

I've also played with slicer settings ad nauseum, unfortunately I didn't keep a log of everything I tried. I even reset my slicer to a switchwire profile and started from there, since that's generally close to what I have... didn't change the results. Attached is an extruder test that highlights the problem. It also has some warping, not sure what that's about.

Obviously a lot of people have been using this extruder with great results, so I'm sure I'm missing something, but I'm out of ideas!

[placid night]

My guess would be a z axis problem, maybe stretch the model out in x and y and see if the bands are in the same spot.

[final gulch]

Id wager something is loose on your tool head assembly. Give it and your hotend a good wiggle to ensure it’s all tight. I was having similar issues with my CW2 and found out both my TAP rail and my revo hotend were loose causing minor layer shifts.

[lusty pulsar]

I will double check all that, give everything a good wiggle.

[final shadow]

Definitely motion system.

[blazing ice]

My G2 just shat itself and chewed up some ASA, thanks to a clog. I'm rebuilding it right now but the carrier wheel seems off center from the filament hole/path. Looking down the hole, it looks off to one side. I followed the instructions by pressing against the rear of the axle, then sitting the carrier flat against the printed part and tightening it. Is there a trick to this?

Very hard to see on photos

[crisp onyx]

Hey guys..looking for a little upgrade path advice

I have a SB with G2e that pritns with a .8 nozzle, and cooling need a big boost.

I'd like to do a xol-toolhead upgrade, maybe even the cpap version but notice the G2e doesnt seem to be compatible with either.

Is the conversion from G2e to G2SA very involved?

Would you suggest a different toolhead flavor?

[odd star]

G2SA has fewer printed parts

[candid goblet]

I don't imagine anything is complicated with G2SA, since you're usually just bolting the provided parts to printed parts. I've not used G2E inside a SB myself...

[silver thicket]

What major differences are there between G2SA and Wristwatch G2? I'd like to use the dual filament sensor option in wwg2 because I'm about to start printing parts for ERCF, but I'm liking G2SA so far on my dragon burner

[lament briar]

They both use the same galileo mechanism but the WW has fewer parts, a better constrained filament path and is lighter weight.

[silver thicket]

Noted! Thanks!

[lament briar]

I actually built a G2SA, got the wrong adapters to put it on my xol like 3 times in a row, then found the WW and used that instead lol.

The G2SA is still technically in beta though so who knows what might change with it.

[silver thicket]

I'm liking it so far but I need ERCF filament switches so I think WWG2 is the better option for me

[lament briar]

I've never actually played with ercf so I can't speak to that lol

[oak mesa]

I just replaced my 3k ish hour old lgx lite with a g2 and im half way through the first print and wow it already looks soooo much better than im used to!

[candid goblet]

Congrats, that a nice gift for your printer

[leaden stag]

So I just built a G2E after dealing with a few CW2 issues. It seems to print fine, but I'm wondering if this gap here is expected?

In other build pictures and renderings, there doesn't seem to be such a large gap. I'm wondering if that might be an indicator that I did something wrong?

It is a bit difficult to get the filament past the extruder gear as well as I can't pull back the finger-hold that far easily

And that's with the tension screw almost completely loose

[oak mesa]

Haha it’s definitely a great bit of kit

Something felt funny when putting the toolhead together though. I use tap and the extruder, hotend mount, and stealthburner face seemed slightly crooked so I’ll have to tear down and check later but for now it’s fine

[leaden stag]

Just a note, I had that same odd "slightly crooked" issue with mine as well when I just installed it. Like one of the 2 fasteners was not 100% aligned properly?

[oak mesa]

Oh interesting. Were those the ones that hold the hotend in place or the ones for the extruder?

[leaden stag]

The 2 fasteners that attach the Stealthburner plate to the extruder. I actually took a light and noticed the holes in the G2E was about 1-2mm off from the SB. I widened the hole slightly on the SB plate and it fit better.

Wasn't sure if I just failed to install the heat insert directly or not.

[oak mesa]

Ohhh nah that’s not what I mean. I don’t have a picture at the moment but I’ll try a drawing

Excuse the horrible diagram but it gets the point across. Front of the printer on the left. It’s like the hotend is crooked and if the stealthburner front is straight to the hotend then it makes a gap on the top of the g2 but if it’s flat to g2 it pulls the hotend out

[dim trail]

Sorry to bother, I am doing research in order to decide which extruder is less prone to introduce artifacts, should I go for the galileo2 or the clockwork?

[odd star]

Cw2 is standard with voron kits. G2E is a mod but I think G2E has better layer stacking

[blazing ice]

G2 by a landslide

[dim trail]

Thank you

[lament briar]

Reprint the back of the tool carrier. The little legs are very thin and they're prone to kinda heat creeping and collapsing.

if you put it flat on a table its probably potato chip shaped now

[oak mesa]

Yeah I thought so too but they are all freshly printed parts

The entire toolhead actually

It is tap if that makes any difference

[versed lily]

My G2E has been running great for a couple months but yesterday mid print it started clicking/skipping even without filament in. I pulled it apart and I don't see anything obvious being wrong. The planet gears don't appear to be stripped, and minimal filament dust around the extruder gear. When I put it back together it extruded about 50mm and then started skipping/clicking again. Any thoughts on what I should check? I'm pretty sure I have one of the very early kits from West3D if that matters.

[lament briar]

How does it feel to turn the shaft by hand with the extruder motor off? Any rough running spots?

If it came out of the blue it might be a bad crimp on a motor wire that's just starting to go flakey on you.

[versed lily]

It won't turn at all but hand. I didn't think it's electrical but I can check that.

[lament briar]

With the extruder motor disabled?

If the motor is energized you won't be able to turn it.

Hit the little engine off icon and try to turn it.

[versed lily]

@lament briar I have it completely disconnected and I can't turn it

[lament briar]

yea that's mechanical then. check to make sure you didn't get the planets misaligned or out of time

[versed lily]

Yeah it's strange because when I remove the motor the planets spin freely and the motor/gear goes in and matches up easy

[lament briar]

Maybe the printed housing warped and it finally just crushed the planet carrier

I had some parts that were overextended and you can definitely seize up the carrier if your printed parts are off.

End up crushing the planets between the back housing and middle bearing.

[versed lily]

Okay I'm currently printing all new parts and will give that a try in the morning

[versed lily]

Following up after my rebuild, I noticed during the teardown that the planets were completely dry, even though I had applied some grease before closing it up. When I rebuilt it with new parts and a fresh application of lithium grease, I was able to rotate it by hand. Everything is now back on the printer, and the skipping issue is resolved. Thanks for your advice!

[oak mesa]

So I’m not excellent at cad but I plan on installing a bigtreetech sb2209 usb board on my 2.4 with g2. Anyone able to double check if it will fit? They say you need custom stls to fit it with clockwork 2 so that has me worried it won’t work

https://github.com/bigtreetech/EBB/tree/master/EBB_SB2209_USB

[woeful oracle]

I have sb2209 on mine it fits

[woeful oracle]

You will just need a bigger cable door

[oak mesa]

Ah awesome Ty

[latent badger]

Anyone have any tips for getting rid of this wood grain texture? its A G2E

[peak mason]

It is hard to pin down the exact cause as there many things could cause it. You have to make sure all printed parts are printed with a tuned printer and that nothing is bent or warped, and that nothing is too tight or too lose. Then carefully reassemble.

[latent badger]

Since making my last post, i have ripped the extruder apart for the 12th time now everything looks perfectly fine. the drive gear spins perfect. HOWEVER, i discovered that this time the machined aluminum part has now become magnetized to the screws that hold the bearing in place!?!?!?!?!? Spinning the aluminum shaft cleanly snaps to each spot where the screws are but freely spins and is not rubbing at all. Has anyone else experienced this?

[lament briar]

woodgrain should be virtually impossible with a G2E since is a single drive gear on a fat shaft. pics of the issue you're having?

[lament briar]

that doesn't look extruder related. looks more like really bad motor VFA

[peak mason]

Oh I can assure you it is possible. I've had it myself. But managed to solve it in the end, after many-many tries.

#1160715888048218193 message

What I do agree with, however, is that the artifacts on Ganley's images do not seem extruder-related.

[peak mason]

Haves a look at Ellis' Tuning Guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
You can find help there regarding both VFAs and woodgrain texture in the Troublehsooting section.

[latent badger]

@peak mason I have referenced Ellis’s guide hundreds of times. That’s where I started. All organic printing speeds are ran within the green zones on my vibrations profile and verified that they are maintaining those speeds in the mainsail interface. I have gone as far as swapping out 3 different motor size and retuning the motor current accordingly as well as input shaper and vibrations profile to match the motors and resonance speeds. I have gone thru all of my avenues and have narrowed it down to the extruder. The only time that I can get these artifacts to go away is if I loosen the tension screw to the point that it barely grabs the filament but then I run into it loosing grip constantly. I’m at my wits end wit this extruder. And I’m not the only one to experience these problems…. It seems to be a common occurrence.

[peak mason]

I recommend then you print one of Mihai's woodgrain testprints (also referenced in the tuning guide). It will make a lot larger area of the artifact visible. That should give enough information to tell with much more certainty if it is related to the extruder or not. Because you say it is due to the extruder, but based on your images, that is no so obvious. So figuring that out should be the first step in diagnosing the problem.

https://mihaidesigns.com/inconsistent-extrusion/

[lament briar]

well shit. i didn't think id need to print one of those towers again with G2 and now you've got me questioning reality lol

now i need to check

[peak mason]

The reason I printed those towers is because I noticed the consistency issues even in my regular prints. The towers were part of diagnosing the issue and making it more reproducible. Since you didn't notice any issues in your prints, you should be fine and I don't think there's a reason for you to print the towers.

[lament briar]

Yea I get ya. I'm familiar with the towers from diagnosing eccentricity issues with CW2 parts.

I suppose the G2 could be succeptible to a similar problem now that I think about it since the hobbed driver is attached with a set screw too

[main bear]

Is it okay if the shaft support bearing is loose in there?

Or should it be very tight fitting?

[errant flare]

Is there an SB G2E Ebb36/NH36 mount available?

[atomic haven]

Define loose? was easily press fit in or has wiggle room? That is supporting your gears so you want it snug to keep everything aligned

[main bear]

Pretty lose it’s falls off if I flip it. Take it apart I mean

[river verge]

Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I am curious. I did try searching, but I can't find an answer I was looking for.

Can the Galileo 2 be used with a Mini Stealthburner?

[ruby jasper]

The G2E is a Stealthburner extruder. To my knowledge, there is no MiniSB variant. There are however the G2SA and WristwatchG2 extruders that use the Galileo 2 motor and gearbox. These can mount on a dragonburner toolhead which is V0 compatible. It does use 4010 part cooling fans though, so you might need to buy some fans if you go that route.

Alternatively, you can use this with either the G2SA or WWG2 as it uses the Orbiter 2 mounting pattern. https://www.printables.com/model/366337-voron-02-orbiter-20-trianglelab-chc-mini-stealthbu

Or this is compatible with the Sherpa mini mounting pattern that the G2SA has as an option: https://www.printables.com/model/451261-voron-02-r1-sherpa-mini-micro-stealthburner

[river verge]

Thanks

[wheat frost]

I have just installed a sb2209usb to my machine running a g2e, the g2e requires some modification to install the board due to an i2c connector installed on the reverse of it.

[oak mesa]

You got it all installed though? Everything works?

[wheat frost]

It works very well. I am considering desoldering the connector on the reverse as I will not be using the i2c connector.

[oak mesa]

Yeah not something I would use either. Does it get in the way of something?

[wheat frost]

It prevents the board from mounting to the g2e, I did a quick cutout in fusion to give it some room so I could install it.

[wheat frost]

this shows the minimum cutout required to clear the connector on the back of the sb2209 usb board.

[oak mesa]

Ohhh so without that port would it fit the g2e without any mods?

[wheat frost]

Yes without the port it would fit perfectly.

[oak mesa]

Oh cool. Is it nice and easy to remove or does it look like it would be a pain?

I mean I wasn’t planning on using it anyway so probably easier to just use the modified parts

[outer ore]

Is there a spacer for the sb2209 or does that make the connector not align?

[oak mesa]

The standard sb2209 will be fine but the sb2209 usb does require a special part. Can’t be a spacer otherwise the toolhead side won’t align

[wheat frost]

The spacer is for the cw2 on the g2e the spacer is already in the model.

[wheat frost]

With care it should be straightforward to remove.

[main bear]

Can some post there [tmc2209 extruder] settings?

[sudden hatch]

VOLCANO

[edgy burrow]

Hey guys!
Is G2SA compatible with orbiter 2 filament sensors?

[candid goblet]

hmm, interesting question. I have all those things but never physically tried putting them together in that combination

maybe ask in #ldo_motors since they manufacter all of those (they didn't design them)

[main bear]

New G2 extruder! Wood pattern is gone 🥳 but is this pattern are they from my motors and linear rails? (Maybe hard to see in the picture)

[peak mason]

Seems like VFA. If it is, check your belt path, incl. idlers, pulleys etc.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/troubleshooting/vfas.html

[steep dragon]

GoodDay all, Anyone came across Galileo Extruder 2 BTT EBB42 Mount for Stealthburner?

[candid goblet]

I haven't seen people making EBB42 mounts, not sure why. COuld be that CAN really caught on after the swtich to the round motors so there aren't that may sqaure EBB42s out there

[steep dragon]

yeah i only seen with EBB36s, i am trying to connect everything on the EBB42, i am using dual filament sensors on the GE2, and need the I2C for my Eddy Coil or Cartographer. Unless i use a USB Version of BTT Eddy..

[candid goblet]

I'm waiting for BTT to drop the price of the EBB42 to the floor so I pick up some for projects 😉

[oak mesa]

Real quick one. Did you end up uploading this anywhere?

Actually should be super straight forward I’ll give it a go myself I think

Because I also need it to work with some other mods too

[wheat frost]

Someone else uploaded a very similar one to printables just before I was going to.

[oak mesa]

Ahhh cool lol

I just need it to work with the filametrix mod

[glacial geyser]

Which retract distance and speed are you running at this i had tini stringing at pla with an rapido and hardened steel nozzle

for the moment i am on distance 0,5 and retract speed 40

[hard inlet]

Hi has anyone had their LDO high temp motor die on them? I've had my Galileo 2 on my printer for around 500 or so hours and it's suddenly severely under-extruding. I've eliminated other scenarios that may cause this.

[bronze glacier]

I'm having the exact same issue with LDO Galileo 2 kit since a couple of days ago. It under-extrudes and sometimes even over-extrudes like crazy. I reprinted the whole thing because it developed a few cracks, but it changed pretty much nothing. The motor skips like crazy when manually extruding at 7 mm/s or more. It feels like it wants to explode at times.

I must point out that it worked flawlessly for at least 3 months.

[hard inlet]

Basically the exact same thing happened to me. It seemed like the motor was reaching a point, overheating and cutting out...went back to CW2 and everything is fine. Glad I spent all that money @robust rune

[bronze glacier]

I'm printing new CW2 parts at the moment since I couldn't figure out the fix either. It has to be the motor, right?

[hard inlet]

It's the only variable left after I rebuilt the stupid thing 10 times and reprinted it a half a dozen times on two different printers (just in case).

[bronze glacier]

Same thing. I have at least 5 full sets of G2 printed parts 🙃

Funny how I've been using CW2 with Orbiter 2 LDO motor for a year with zero issues. I thought the only difference was 9 vs 10 teeth on the gear.

[hard inlet]

Yeah I honestly haven't had an extruder motor die on me for years now. It's sad because LDO is usually considered a really reliable company

[bronze glacier]

Hopefully we can get more reports on this because I've never had a motor die either.

But Galileo 2 has at least 3 weak points that I discovered. One of them is the front bearing holder which tends to crack a lot. I've seen other people having same issue on Github.

[hard inlet]

That never happened to me, but I did see that issue on other community platforms

[round crow]

All this overheating talk, should I be throwing a fan on the sb2209 board cover? Slowly piecing together this galileo and sitting out strain relief etc

[bronze glacier]

I can't make any claims because I'm not 100% sure, but the only variable left in my testing is the motor. And for what it's worth I've printed a couple of xyz cubes in petg in completely cold enclosure and same thing happened. I tried lowering the current to make the motor run cooler and still nothing. It was printing at very low speeds, didn't skip steps, and still underextruded like crazy.

I think the motor might be dead completely because it can't be anything else. It's a pretty simple setup with printed parts and couple of bearings. The only thing that could die is the motor.

[robust rune]

Hi,@hard inlet@bronze glacier There are several steps can help u to solve that problem.

First of all, loosen the thumbing screws completely to check whether the motor is running normally (if the motor cannot run normally, then the motor has the problem).

Second, if the motor is running normally, we recommended that the extruder is completely disassembled for cleanup.

Third, Please make a special check to see whether the rotating shaft is loose. If so, the printing part needs to be replaced.

After assembly, do not tighten the thumbing screws, and let the extruder begin to feed. Let it feed while u are tightening until you think the state of satisfaction.

I have met this problem before, and it can be repaired by this method.

[hard inlet]

I did! It helps.

[hard inlet]

Thank you for the reply, I have performed all those steps multiple times. Most recently the motor was just vibrating/clicking.

[bronze glacier]

Thanks for the help! I will try running motor on its own because the rest of the parts are perfect. I cleaned every gear and bearing, and reprinted all parts multiple times.

Yesterday I switched to CW2 with LDO motor I've stolen from Orbiter 2.0 and it works flawlessly.

[odd star]

What canbus cable mount are you using with g2e on a SB with btt sb2209 rp2040?

[outer ore]

I'm using this on my Mellow CAN board https://www.printables.com/model/825175-galileo-2-g2e-pug-umbilical-mount

[grizzled talon]

I made my own that fits in the current port #1160715888048218193 message

[main bear]

My G2E have some jammed filmen in it. Can I just take of the screw on the back to opens it? Or how do I do?

[candid goblet]

I have to go to work, but to get info from you so someone else can answer....
Are you running it inside a SB or running G2SA? Or running something else?

[main bear]

I have SB hard to get in there. I did take off the extruder and taker it apart. It’s fixed now

[errant flare]

I built a WWG2 out of a G2E kit and I’m wondering if the pushing force is typically less than a cw2? It seems like on my flow testing I’m having to decrease my Max volumetric flow from what this hot end was doing in a cw2. Is this something that’s not right with my build?

[blazing ice]

Pushing force is higher, but the extruder maxes out at 30-40 mm3, as the gearing is 9:1

[candid goblet]

@crystal zephyr
Although not sure if it is a G2E problem, but I suppose likely

did you make all the ncessary changes to your [extruder] section?

[crystal zephyr]

Its the only parts thats changed

[crystal zephyr]

Yes 9:1 ratio, 16 microsteps etc

[candid goblet]

that's strange, what do the top and bottom layers look like?

[crystal zephyr]

They look alright tbh

I'm about to give up on it tbh I've been trying for months to get it rebuild but at this point I may just give up all together on vorons, I have 3 and I use them less than even one of my bambus

[golden pagoda]

Anyone here built the WWG2 Dual sensor version? My sensors keep getting stuck. I tested them over 100x using filament and a multimeter before putting it into the machine. Im wonder if the heat is somehow affecting it when printing?

[candid goblet]

Have you tried opening a Help ticket, worth doing before giving up. It's really hard to know exactly just from your cube picture, kinda have to explorer lots of different avenues from mechanical to slicer

[faint remnant]

Does it max out at 30-40 because of the stepper motor, maybe another stepper can fix that fir those who wants to go faster

[blazing ice]

Because of the gearing

[little harness]

Is it pretty straightforward to convert between the different Galileo variants? I'm thinking about swapping out my CW2 for a G2E, and I would guess it's fairly easy to turn that into a G2SA in the future if I wanted to change to a XOL toolhead or something

I'm also not super clear what the advantages of the G2E are over the CW2 besides (potentially) being convertible for other toolheads. Could someone give me a quick rundown?

[opaque aurora]

Yes the G2E kit should be everything you need to build most of not all the G2 variants

[opaque aurora]

G2E has better layer stacking than CW2 , produces really nice quality prints

[round crow]

Starting to calibrate things, and it seems like Im having an extrusion delay on my galelelo 2. Does that make any sense?

not sure where Id start as far as settings are concerned.

[hexed gate]

can you explain/illustrate what you mean further?

[round crow]

So doing a benchy, and it seems to take a second before filament starts coming out at the start of the skirt. Almost like I'm not "priming" the nozzle soon enough when starting the line.

Afaik, it's not oozing out on route to the skirt or anything.

Digging around in here, seems like someone with my exact build made it better by popping in a slightly longer PTFE tube so I might try that.

G2, SB, and a revo

[thorn owl]

Is there anybody who had/has salmon skin effects with their G2E extruder?

[candid goblet]

Maybe is a feature. You'll have to build another printer if you want to print anything except fish

[thorn owl]

Thanks for the advice

[candid goblet]

sorry for the joke, I actually don't know that symptom at all

I suggest taking your question to #slicers_and_print_help and posting a good picture(s)

[faint remnant]

Best hot end to maybe print Nylon and and possibly CF, I have an old E3D V3 with CW2 on a V2-350. It's been clogging a lot lately with TPU, fan is running but the clog is in the heatbreak, getting fedup

ooop wrong channel

[harsh nexus]

Did you get an answer here? Considering a Galileo 2 for my SW (LDO rev A kit), but I found (and lost) a reference that was saying you lose z-height. How is G2E working in your SW?

[vital pawn]

Working fine, though the x chain i a bit high up. Max build hight i have achived with my enderwire is 210mm, before i hear sounds that I do not like, from the chain, or cables hitting something Above.

[severe scaffold]

Hello I’m currently trying to build my g2 standalone extruder but I’m currently confused on this page. Am I suppose to have this movement in the video, bc it seems like the screw or geared part isn’t aligned with the feeding hole, so am like suppose to pull the feeding gear out to align it with a hole while the shaft is push down?

[copper estuary]

I responded to your other post on User Mods.... Jared has an assembly video you can watch that will help

[severe scaffold]

I did watch it and doesn’t really explain the standalone extruder

It just talks about how to clip the planetary gear housing onto the motor

And inserting into a sb and how to look out for jamming the motor gear

It doesn’t explain whether I’m suppose to pull out the feeding gear to align the teeth with feeding hole or am I suppose to push it all the way down like it claimed in the manual

[copper estuary]

OK... I believe that you pull outward on the shaft and then slide the filament gear all the way down and then tighten...then check for alinment on the filament path, @final shadow can confirm this.

[severe scaffold]

Ok then that’s weird because the manual says you push down on the shaft then slide the gear in, thank you 😊

[copper estuary]

Sorry...thats why I tagged Jared to clarify

There was a video that had him talking about that...

[severe scaffold]

All good thank you, I will just wait to see what Jared says

[copper estuary]

Looking for the video

[severe scaffold]

For the wristwatch g2 which also uses the Galileo 2 says to pull the shaft out

[copper estuary]

I have both and probably got them mixed up...

Go to 42:58 mark of this video he also pushes the shaft down
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fl1KdQP4-WA

[ruby jasper]

I believe the intention is to move the shaft to the end of its travel then set the gear. This gives the shaft the ability to "float" and self-center on the filament when pushing plastic

[copper estuary]

On the WW2G2 the filament gear is flipped.

[severe scaffold]

Ok so I am suppose to push it down and have the gear pushed all the way down. Ig the teeth aren’t suppose to align with the feeding hole

[ruby jasper]

Yes. do as described. Once it's set, you should be able to feed some filament through and see the gear self-align

[severe scaffold]

Okay thank you

[whole badger]

for everyone running a Galileo for some time I suggest opening in once in a while and cleaning it out. I had a filament stuck inside and found a lot of filament rests and debris inside the housing. Wonder why I had no serious printing issues with all that stuff just waiting to be pushed through the extruder...

[ionic jewel]

Question about G2Z: manual calls out for Silicone grease, but the only silicone grease i have has the PTFE particles, is that going to harm anything? i do also have Mobilux EP2 and some White Lithium grease

[candid goblet]

I wish they would put a small tube of grease in the kit. On second thought, I think shipping lubes causes import problems or something, which is prob why it isn't

[ionic jewel]

Bambu ships little foil packets of their grease with their stuff, they're like the size of the single use ointment packets

[candid goblet]

Prusa ships little toothpaste type tubes...

[severe scaffold]

Is there any substantial improvement when swapping from the regular z to g2z

[candid goblet]

Yes, the ebay has way more space

[severe scaffold]

I see thank you

[golden pagoda]

if I am building a high speed AWD machine, is there a max speed the galileo can keep up with?

[timid wing]

it's really about the extrusion rate and not the movement speed. and the extrusion rate heavily depends on your hotend. also, even if we knew what hotend you have, there are other factors which makes it impossible to make a clear statement. tl;dr galileo is most likely not your bottleneck.

[golden pagoda]

Havent chosen one yet. Trying to plan what I should pair with a G2SA. Open to suggestions! I have a bunch of bambu clones with 80w heater and cht and I ahve a dragon hf. Curious if there is faster hotend that pairs well with a G2SA

mostly print abs

followed by pla

[hearty ermine]

Any uhf hotend would print faster than those

[golden pagoda]

maybe the rapido 2 uhf?

It looks like the sock can help protect it from catastrophic print failure. I lost a dragon hf to a super terrible blob

[golden pagoda]

Actually I like the design of the Rapido Ace better

[normal cave]

I'm building a Galileo 2 and I can't bring the halfs closer than that, that can't be right?

[sage widget]

that's normal, check with some filament in it

[normal cave]

Ah ok, is there a reason for it to be designed that way? i mean the whole thing does not align properly (there is always a gap at the top)

[sage widget]

no idea but that seems normal to me

[solid warren]

Search sucks and didn't help. How well does Stealthburner G2E handle 95A TPU?

[sage widget]

it handles it fairly well but I wouldn't use the reverse bowden and keep the spool as loose as possible to not put strain on it

also just like any other TPU printing, key is ensuring consistent extrusion and not going too fast

[silk spire]

Hello. Is the hobb gear that comes in the kit hardened steel?

[hexed gate]

best to check with the vendor or manufacturer of the kit. some are, some aren't.

[zenith raven]

Just built my Galileo2 extuder and going to start first print, dont with extrusion calibartion.

I find the spring quite hard to move to insert and remove filament,.

even when the tensioner is only in a couple of turns

also shorted out my 5V PSU while disassbling the pinter while on.. thankfully saved the SB leds, lost some of the daylight LEDs and PSU.. now wired up external CPU PSU.. 🙂

[silk spire]

Thanks.

[zenith raven]

I find the galigeo2 extuder pivot quite hard to move, is anyone considering a design modification to the extuder body to provide a brace so we can pinch it between two fingers?

[lethal drum]

I believe they are of those nitride coating.

RNC or similar.

Yes, hardened and coated.

(at least the LDO G2 kit)

[hexed gate]

yeah the blurolls one (which i'm not sure is approved?) came with chrome extruder gears, my actual LDO one came with nitride coated gears (the blurolls one is staying in the parts box)

[silk spire]

Thanks.

[lethal drum]

Hm could still be used as some pre-extruder or something 😄

[hexed gate]

franken-struder

[final shadow]

If it doesn't have LDO's name on the box, it's not "approved" nor official, and there's very much a reason for that. 🙂

[hexed gate]

that's fair enough. blurolls are confusing, they do have some approved stuff

[final shadow]

It's designed that way so that the housing never meets the other side of the printed part; I want the drive gear to be the first and only point of contact. I took an angular cutout along the path of rotation to ensure that was true. The clearance inside is smaller than the clearance outside due to the path of rotation, so the outside portion has a larger gap due to that.

[final shadow]

As with most things China, it's a case-by-case thing.

[normal cave]

Thanks for taking the time to explain this! Looking forward to put your design into action!

[candid radish]

Running a G2SA, will I benefit from tmc-autotune?

[cinder musk]

just wanted to check, no manual for G2Z yet? I'm confident I can do without but always better to have it.

nvm I found it, i thought it would be under G2Z, didn't look in manuals 🙃

[dim sage]

How to I set the perfect tension?

[odd star]

is the Wrist watch the only other good option for g2e?

[lethal drum]

G2 Standalone is an option too.

[candid goblet]

The knob on my G2SA keeps flying off. Anybody got any gucci ones I can print/order?

Kinda want a swirl one, but my changer printer isn't working yet

[lethal drum]

be like @lavish flower and add grub screw there

[lavish flower]

• m4 grubscrew

not by the pc now, but i can send the stl later if you’d like

[candid goblet]

Yes please, having it come flying off at the start of each print is no longer amusing or a relief 😉

wait, I don't have any M4 hardware

Maybe I should go Fusion the original for M3 set screw - someone told me told order that to stop all my 1515 rattles

[lavish flower]

well, here you go either way 😄 https://github.com/jontek2/Voron-mods/tree/main/G2SA-knob_grubscrew

i just took one from a random old pulley i had

[candid goblet]

oh, those are M4? I probably have

[lavish flower]

yeah they're usally like m4x4 or so

[deft wigeon]

Does anyone know why I am getting random under extrusion on outer walls? I have the g2e with revo micro, 0.4mm nozzle, pla. That happened at 210 and 205 degrees. 8mm3 flow

[dim sage]

Retraction/pressure advance?

[chilly swift]

Is anyone using CHT (fake) nozzle with GE2? I tried 0.4 and 0.6, but I get worse results compared to standard v6 nozzle. Tried with Phaetus Dragon ST and TZ-V2-V6
Does it not have enough power or grip or should I get better results with cht?

[quartz kite]

Check the CHT ducts at the top of the nozzle, they should be sharp at the entrance to the nozzle. If they're blunt, they won't be able to cut the filament. It's one of the possible problems with the third-party CHT nozzles

[chilly swift]

yeah they are not sharp, I was wondering about this, but it seems like newer cht nozzles from bondtech are also not sharp anymore - atleast it looks like it on the photos

[deft wigeon]

I did those. That artefact is random. The z seam is on that side from the bottom up

Different filament

[chilly swift]

Only in corners?

[deft wigeon]

As far as I can tell, is only for the z seam...and it doesn't happen always. I tried to check the gcode for some patterns, but I wasn't able to spot anything. I was hoping someone already had a similar issue and found a solution.

[chilly swift]

did you try to remove pressure advance completely, or just tune it? Did you try another slicer? Orca for example has a feature to tune z seam, maybe something like this is messing with it.

[deft wigeon]

I use orcaslicer. What's the name of that feature for tuning the zseam?

[chilly swift]

I think it's called scarf joint seam in english

[deft wigeon]

Nah. I tried that one it gives impredictibile results. Its mostly good for cilindrical shapes

I tuned the pressure advance and I am happy with the results. Except those random ones that I can't figure out

I am thinking that there might be too much friction down the ptfe tube...and the smart filament sensor.

Now that I think about it, I only have that issue with pla and not with ASA. asa seems to slide easier

If that's the case, then I am not sure how to fix it...

[chilly swift]

I mean, just try without the ptfe and see

but I would think the issue would be more random and not only at the seam/corners if thats the case

[deft wigeon]

I hope it's not this because I don't have a better alternative

[chilly swift]

could also be the motor getting to hot, I had a similar problem where the extruder got so hot it more or less melted the pla on the gear

[deft wigeon]

How hot is too hot?

[chilly swift]

but with this setup, try hanging the pla from the front and feed without the pla, if it gets better thats your problem

[chilly swift]

with pla i thing 60°C not sure right now at what point it deforms, I am not normally printing pla

[deft wigeon]

I am certain its around that temperature sometimes. I expected more

[chilly swift]

na pla melts in a car, at least in german summer haha

ask me how i know xD

[deft wigeon]

If the motor is 60, I don't think the gear that touches the filament is that hot.

[chilly swift]

yeah no, it should be a bit cooler. but my motor get's so hot you can burn yourself if you touch it a bit longer

but of course, while printing abs/asa, so the chamber also is at 60-70°C

[deft wigeon]

I did some more tests. I fed the filament straight from the spool, no ptfe or sfs and it made no difference. Then I changed the cooling and the nozzle temperature

And this is supposed to be meta pla... Yet at 190C it clogs the nozzle..I suppose I need to do some temperature measurements of the nozzle...

[grave bridge]

I’m having Galileo2 issues..I’ve rebuilt it 3 times. I can manually extrude by hand and through the dashboard but when I start printing nothing comes out even when I tighten it to grip the filament tighter…I have a phaetus dragonfly currently if that matters. Anyone have any insight?

[granite zodiac]

I have this same issue. 😭

[grave bridge]

So I think I got it figured out..the extruder is pushing too much filament for the hotend so I decreased the run current and bumped up the temp a lil…I’m going to test this theory now I’ll let you know the results

[grave bridge]

Looks horrible but it is printing

[granite zodiac]

What's the run current you used?

[grave bridge]

I used 0.45

[round crow]

running a Galileo 2 with a revo, and I feel like I'm seeing a slight delay before extrusion starts.

Does that make any sense? not sure how I would fix this but I'm wondering if its buggering my bridging etc. something mechanical? a slicer setting?

[hexed gate]

you're describing what pressure advance aims to tune

to an extent

[round crow]

RIP, ok I can try to calibrate that. Would it indicate under-tuining? over tuning? or really who know

[hexed gate]

go through tuning it and you'll see

[chilly swift]

the current should not change how much it pushes, just with how much force. If it's pushing to much your config is most likely wrong. Did you change the rotation distance?

[grave bridge]

Yes i changed it to what was in the manual (~47)..after calibrating it went down to ~46

[chilly swift]

ay, i had the same thing a while ago... I always printed pla with 200°C, but I didn't print pla for a while. I tried to print with my voron and couldn't get it working. Someone in the german channel told me that most pla have changed and need to printed hotter now.

[chilly swift]

strange, maybe do a flow calibration and see, maybe your slicer settings are wrong - to high flow for the filament

[placid night]

I've been having woodgrain issues with my G2 for a while. It's a beta kit, but I've since gotten injection molded gears and a second carrier shaft, as well as high end bearings for the shaft and planetary gears, but no change.

I think.... that something is up with how my rear half part is printing, I can feel binding and resistance about every third of a rotation. Fully assembled with the motor, you can feel backlash come and go as you rotate, along with extra resistance. I think this is pulsing the flow rate slightly and causing the extrusion variation. If i take out all but one planet, i can feel binding when a planet is oriented as in the photo. It's less pronounced with one of the three planet positions, which made me initially think carrier shaft issue. No change with a new one though, and it's the planet opposite the grub screw flat that is always smoother, so I think that position is just not as constrained until fully assembled, when you can always feel it bind. Oh, and there is about a half mm of play vertically, that never goes away, I think it's just binding in the XY.

I've corrected for very slight skew using Cali lantern, tried different slicers and profiles and print orientations, a huge range of extrusion multipliers. I've checked all over the part and can't find a measurement that seems amiss. I've played with XY shrinkage with no luck. Is there anything I could be missing?

[velvet imp]

Have you got injection mold gear housing as well?

[timid wing]

have you ever adjusted the tensioner? its easy to overtighten, and can lead to print issues

[pallid mirage]

This is the status of my G2 after a month of use. My hotend has decent long melt zone so the retracted filament always have a little extra nib dangling. And G2 just happily eats it up

I wonder if there are possible design changes to the filament path can be "opened" without taking the whole assembly off the gantry.

[outer ore]

Another option could be to cut the filament so there is no hanging nibs.

This is the one I use for the sensors: https://github.com/juliusjj25/G2E-Filametrix-Lever-Switch-Mod

[pallid mirage]

so more of the ERCF way?

[outer ore]

ERCF just changes the filament and can work with tip tuning without a cutter.

I am using the cutter without a ERCF to make filament changing and loading much easier as the entry switch calls my load macro automatically on insertion.

[placid night]

Yep, i just had the old mdf parts on my desk for the photo.

[placid night]

Yup, at one point i ran it as loose as i could with the speed turned way down for the extrusion test.

[deft wigeon]

I found what was causing the issue...The nozzle got loose(revo) .

[candid goblet]

#preferClockwiseMovements

[grave bridge]

Turns out I was using the wrong toolhead. I have a 7 fin dragonfly but the toolhead i used was for 6 fin so the filament was melting in the heatbreak. It’s crazy that just a few mm of air flow would cause all that trouble

[granite zodiac]

My G2E is running fantastically after the Voron help team pinpointed that I was missing a bearing in the extruder.

[slate aurora]

Wen g2.5

[bright trench]

whats up g's?

im researching the turblebox mmu

i wondered if someone can point me in the right direction for a filament runout sensor+cutter for the G2E

i heard both are basically a must

[errant flare]

You can use snappy cutter which is a mod and uses the ERCF cutters parts. For run out on a G2E I am not sure what the options are. If you are stuck on a SB you could do a WWG2 on dragon burner, xol, reaper or A4T

[thin oriole]

Filametrix works. https://github.com/juliusjj25/G2E-Filametrix-Lever-Switch-Mod?tab=readme-ov-file And cutter.https://github.com/sorted01/Filametrix?tab=readme-ov-file

[outer ore]

Yeah, I am using this and I can recommend this version as well.

[deft wigeon]

In addition to that, I also had this partial clog that was restricting the maximum flow.

[sharp flax]

I noticed in the instruction manual for galileo 2 that they didn thave you run the gear box in a drill but all the how to vids i watched thats what they did? mine is a kit from west 3d and the gears seem to move smooth?

[velvet imp]

This was for old version where gears were printed. No need to do this for injection mold parts.

[sharp flax]

Good thing because i yoloed it last night and just assembled. XD

But to be fair, with how little resistance i had. I felt it was an old method people used for whatever reason. Glad i was right for once lol.

I used krytox GPL204 on the gear box. that should be fine right?

Krytox GPL 204 grease is the product of choice in extreme temperature conditions. Most petroleum products begin to degrade above 99 °C (210 °F) and are too viscous at temperatures just below –18 °C (0 °F). Under the D-3336 test conditions of 177 °C (350 °F) and 10,000 rpm, the majority of competing hydrocarbon lubricants fail in less than 1,000 hr. But, the general-purpose line of Krytox lubricants has been shown to last over 5,000 hr without failure, even at an increased temperature of 200 °C (392 °F). This extreme condition performance is what distinguishes Krytox performance lubricants from other competing products.

[sharp flax]

Anyone know a good PG7 mount for the g2e? only one i could find is the below mount. im afraid the hollow standoff's will break. I guess worst case i could take his step file and modify the standoff's to make it beefier?

https://thangs.com/designer/MandicReally/3d-model/Galileo 2 PG7 Cable Gland Mount - FITS Voron 2.4! M12 too!-997737?srsltid=AfmBOooBSQ9VsFKocmu-wo4SulaVWLI0XkHy95MCOzW411u7svtvq0Ng

[outer ore]

What about the one in the user mods folder?

https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/user_mods/hartk/G2E_Umbilical

[sharp flax]

awesome! my only comlaint about it is that there isnt a way to clamp down on the pg7 glad. But i like how it attaches to the g2e better. I guess ill just use some gorilla glue to make sure the pg7 is secure to the printed part.

[outer ore]

The cable will likely prevent it from it working out.

[sharp flax]

Yeah but im trying to prevent as much strain on the cable as possible.

[versed heart]

You could try this mod https://www.printables.com/model/825175-galileo-2-g2e-pug-umbilical-mount

It uses these
https://www.printables.com/model/378567-pug-parametric-umbilical-gland

[sharp flax]

Much appreciated. already installed the one Rogue linked. It was actually a way tighter fit than the last pg7 mount i used so no glue needed.

[versed heart]

Looks good!

[sharp flax]

ignore the shitty extruder cable management. Wanted to test it out before worring about getting the extruder cable cut to an appropriate length.

[versed heart]

I'm getting ready to redo my umbilical and I think I'm going to use this https://www.printables.com/model/411846-another-toolhead-umbilical-for-voron-24

This looks interesting as well but I have a Trident
https://www.printables.com/model/712328-no-z-chain-for-voron-24

[main bear]

what retractions settings do you guys use?

[candid goblet]

Mine seems to be set for 1.0; I'm trying 1.1 trying to get better top-layer results

Oh wait, this is my Orbiter2...G2 printer is still set to 0.5

[main bear]

sweet i will try the same

ooh

is 0.8 safe?

[candid goblet]

I mean, what is "safe"? 0.5 is safe

[main bear]

short is safe? 😄

[candid goblet]

I think worst case is that your prints will suck in certain places. You can do 0.8, but basically you need to tune for yourself from there

[main bear]

its hard to tune i only see stringing at 0.2

over that its safe

[candid goblet]

It would affect your Z-hops if you are hopping

[main bear]

yes I z-hop, i have not see any differences

[candid goblet]

proof is in the pudding

[glossy pasture]

Hello, question, I have built 2 wwG2 for my v2 and micron and I am currently building a thrid for my enderwire. For whatever reason I just noticed that the LDO kits came with 2 shims and I do not have those installed. Looking at the wwG2 manual it doesn't say to use the shims if I remember correctly. Am I supposed to be using the shims for the wwG2 variant?

[cinder musk]

manual has nothing about shims, the kit probably just has extra parts because LDO is trying to consolidate parts. So any kit that has the triple shaft in it, also includes the shims, that way they don't need a separate shaft sku for wwg2, and all the other G2s

[jolly lynx]

anyone have a g2e standalone ebb36 mount?

[candid goblet]

following...I'm using the Chirpy one but would like something more stiff

[jolly lynx]

do you have a link to the chirpy one?

[candid goblet]

https://github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/general/PCB_Mounts

[quartz kite]

These are likely better if you haven't seen them: https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/EBB36-DragonBurner

[quartz kite]

@jolly lynx If you you haven't seen my post, these might serve your better for strain relief ^

[jolly lynx]

Can;t use those for stealth changer

[quartz kite]

Ah! Shame

[jolly lynx]

I was able to half ass a solution

[candid goblet]

Drat, I was hoping you'd solve all my problems

I have a Yavoth almost ready to replace the DB on my Trident (which is the printer with G2SA)

[candid goblet]

I saw those but didn't print any yet.
My wishlist is really that I can have more than the two motor mounts to attach to - all my printers have Boop or Tap, so they don't get the two lower holes

[golden lodge]

Hello Galileo community, I have been using the G2SA for a few months and its fantastic for PLA and PETG. I recently tried TPU 95A and it doesnt seem to work well with this extruder. I can get a print started, but fairly quickly it will begin to bunch up inside the extruder. I have tried various tensioning, temperature, pressure advance and print speeds way down to 20 mm/s, but it just doesn't seem to work well. When I switch back to a bowden setup with a old-school all metal extruder, it works much better and prints complete fine, but with all the downsides of bowden for TPU. (stringing, etc).

Can the G2SA be reliable for TPU or Is this expected? Are there any tips/tricks to make it more reliable for TPU?

[fallow rose]

I wonder. I haven't tried my G2SAs with TPU yet, but I can see how the filament path isn't quite supported between the driver and the body. What's interesting, though, is that the body is different on the G2E so it gets supported a bit more on the idler side.

[onyx crescent]

I see that there is an Orbiter 2.5, with allegedly improved gears etc. from the Orbiter 2. Is there a corresponding Galileo 2.5 kit? If not, are the parts in Orbiter 2.5 upgrade kits drop in enhancements to a Galileo 2?

[candid goblet]

Yes, yes

[onyx crescent]

Cool. 😎 Any idea which vendor is selling a Galileo 2.5 kit? All I have found so far is Galileo 2 kits.

[candid goblet]

West3D, Filastruder, ....

[half matrix]

Hey guys, I've got a Galileo 2 on my 2.4 and it works beautifully, but If I leave filament in it for more than like maybe a couple of minutes the filament gets squished and ends up clogging. I've tried adjusting tension on the spring with really no success. It's barely screwed in. (It's an LDO kit from Fabreeko in case that matters)

Has anyone had that issue? Happens with ABS, PLA, PETG, whatever it is, even if the printer is turned off.

[candid goblet]

How's your PTFE tube?

[onyx crescent]

Have you done a cold pull to rule out a partial clog? Partial clogs and ground filament clogging the gears have been behind my Orbiter 1.5 woes, and are worth ruling out. My apologies, if you’ve already ruled out. FWIW, nylon for cold pulls and a stainless steel dental pick from a cheap tooth tartar scraping kit work great for getting the filament pathway and gears squeaky clean.

[half matrix]

I have a piece of the blue capricorn tube in there. Just pulled it out to check and it seems fine, filament passes freely through it and it doesnt have dents or bulges in the inside

[half matrix]

I've had to do that a couple of times but everything seems fine on the hot end side. 🤔

[candid goblet]

Is it the right length though? People seemed concerned about this, but it hasn't caused me problems personally

[half matrix]

Seems to be, yeah, plus or minus a couple of tenths of a milimiter. The thing has been printing beautifully for almost 400 hours but it's getting pretty obnoxious having to pull the filament out inbetween prints just to cut the tip of the filament

[candid goblet]

Is it heat creep maybe? You didn't describe the thermal conditions when it has problems. Maybe the HE fan is shutting down too early?

[half matrix]

To be honest it could be that, I live in quite a hot environment (30C during the day maybe?) and the shop gets a bit warmer with a couple of machines printing.

I've been ruling the heat creep out because I've got the HE fan running until it gets to 50C and I've never had clogs down at the hot end. The issue always seems to be at the extruder where the bearing and the gear grab the filament. The filament gets a big dent mark from the bearing squishing the filament against the extruder gear.

I've had it happen with ABS and the toolhead TMC2240 reads about 84C and the stepper also gets pretty hot (maybe too hot? im running it at the 0.6 amps the documentation says). But i don't really see those being enough of a heat source to make it creep up to the filament grab point. Guessing that the chamber temperature gets up to maybe 55C ish while printing ABS? It doesn't seem too extreme to me but I could be completely wrong. It weirds me out that it happens with PLA while printing with the doors wide open

[onyx crescent]

I took a looksee at the manual, (which I should have done before asking my earlier question… G2E is totally different from Orbiter, one oversized gear and idler bearing instead of idler gear). Anyways, heat seems to be getting to the gear/idler bearing interface, where it wasn’t before. I’d take the whole unit apart and look for signs of friction (i.e. obvious binding and wear). Did you install the spacer shim? If not, maybe the spider gear is now hitting those screw heads. maybe a heatset insert has worked its way loose somewhere, in which case you could wick some super glue in there after cold or hot pressing the insert flush again. Maybe grease has migrated off of the planet gears.

[sinful shuttle]

news to me!

[candid goblet]

Ha, I'm not paying close enough attention apparently - I read Orbiter 2.5

[candid goblet]

Ack, I change my answer to No

Wasn't playing close enough attention to the Orbiter vs Galileo in the sentences

[covert plank]

the m3x25 screws that would be used for the cw2 are too long for g2e

[hexed gate]

the g2e manual calls for m3x20 for that reason

[cinder musk]

sounds simmilar a problem i had with mine. However mine only had a problem with PLA. Ive been able to run dozens of KGs of ASA through no issues. I thought that it was caused by excessive chamber temps; when printing with the door closed the chamber easily reaches 60c. This softens the PLA enough for the gears to grind it away, or squish it into places it shouldn't be. (the green dust is ASA, but that was because the spool got tangled so the gear ground it up.) During assembly did you remember to drill the filament path? (2mm bit i think) that could cause a hangup.

[weary cairn]

I posted this in the gchat channel but going to repost it here. I just rebuilt my toolhead with galileo 2 and extrusion wasn't perfect. I was also struggling to get the filament in, I could do it but it wasn't easy like I wanted it to be. So I checked the CAD file and it looks like to me the filament path is off? I am thinking that this misalignment is putting pressure on the filament and causing extrusion problems. Here is a screenshot of the CAD.

[scarlet rune]

Anyone seen printed part failures like this? I suppose it could be print quality but I haven’t had issues with any other parts I’ve printed. Is something misaligned or too tight that could cause this?

In case it’s not easy to see there are cracks around both of the holes for the pivot pin. As well as the bearing carrier cracked.

[sage widget]

that's usually when the print isn't properly tuned for dimensional accuracy so the inner holes are undersized just a little bit causing the parts to crack

I had the same issue but after retuning the profile to be dimensionally accurate I haven't had that happen, it also allowed the pins and bearings to slide into position a lot easier

[scarlet rune]

Ok thanks! The broken parts were a tight fit on the pin (even with the cracks) vs the new ones I reprinted are a looser fit, not intentionally they just turned out that way. So I’ll run with those and hope it fixes it

[hexed gate]

did i imagine it, or was there a g2sa wrench out there somewhere?

i know about the grub screw knob

[honest snow]

Rebuilding my G2 from Beta parts to the release parts finally and figured I’d share what I found. No idea exactly how many hours I had running the G2, a few hundred at least, but looks like one of the countersunk screws walked out just enough to rub on the planetary carrier shaft and wear into it. You can see the wear I’m pointing to and the crud in the corner of the extruder body from the wear.

Guess I’ll dab some loctite on these on the new one and hope the interaction of Loctite / ASA bonds the screws in place.

[vague palm]

Use something like this: https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlockers/plastic-compatible/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/ it’s plastic safe

[manic mantle]

In case someone will need PG7 mount for new Galileo Extruder https://www.printables.com/model/1116503-pg7-cable-mount-for-galileo-2

[scarlet rune]

thanks I like the look of this, I already have a mount but might replace with this if I get a chance

[jolly lynx]

Merry Christmas 🎄🎁 - may your extruder continue to rotate

[quaint charm]

Can someone help clarify the length of the PTFE tube sticking out of the top of the hotend? I'm swapping out a CW2 and I currently have 10.6mm sticking out. It sounds like I need 30mm sticking out, per the manual, but there is no way can get that much stuck into the extruder.. At most I can get 10.4mm into the extruder.

[candid goblet]

I should probably do that - forgot to put the PTFE back into the setup I just did maintenance on

[fast shell]

Grab a long piece, put it all the way in, mount the extruder in place and cut the left over as needed, it never fails!!
People have different setups, extruder, etc, You will get a dozen different answer for that question.

[quaint charm]

OK that is what I did.

[somber coral]

Hi everyone. I have a problem when unloading filament it expands too much and it stuck behind gear. Probably my unload macro is not suitable for G2E (didn't change it since CW2), Can someone share good working unload_filament macro?

[outer ore]

I built a Filametrix cutter instead of working on the macro as then there is no stringing either.

The dual sensor version also automates reloading the filament as well.

[sterile condor]

I'm building a G2SA. Build was progressing smoothly until the part where I have to put the MR148 bearing over the carrier shaft. It's a really tight fit, basically an interference fit. Before I start putting parts in the fridge and break out the 1/4" deep socket to press the bearings down the shaft, is there something I'm doing wrong? Tips and tricks anyone?

The drive gear, on the other hand, goes down the shaft pretty smoothly

[fallow rose]

I built two of them, both were sliding fits.

A press fit would make it really hard to put this thing together, wouldn't it?

[sterile condor]

the only part that worries me is the fore/aft clearance of the shaft, there is presumably supposed to be a bit of play so that the gears aren't just mashed against the flat side of the carrier

but actual assembly is not hard, you can just tap it down gently with a rubber mallet and a deep socket. Disassembly is the reverse with just tapping a drift on the carrier shaft. I just don't want to have issues down the road due to lack of play. I'll talk to the vendor and see what they have to say about it

[jolly lynx]

Happy New Year 🎉
May the printer forever revolve around you

[hexed turtle]

Yes! You're describing a very similar problem that I have. It happens on PLA if it's been running and I change filament before another job. It softens and then gets bound around the drive gear and jams (same as @cinder musk)

I've also noticed the pancake stepper is toasty (too hot to touch). Heat creep perhaps? All the numbers you've mentioned are the same for me (run current, HE fan cutoff, ambient temp, etc. all the same)

[jolly surge]

Can someone tell me what that noise is? I rebuild my G2E after 1.500hrs and it was a complete mess inside. So cleaned everything nice and shiny, put it back on and it starts making that noises no matter the tension on the thumbscrew <@&678340349051142180>

[quartz kite]

If you need help from the Helping team, create a ticket in #request_help and they will walk you through diagnosing the problem with you

[jolly surge]

I don’t mind who might help, I appreciate every help. The rules stated I should use „at“helping to reach out to voluntary helpers. Do I have to open a ticket?

[quartz kite]

You do not have to, but there you will get 1 to 1 support rather than waiting on wider community help

[jolly surge]

I'll rebuild again first and then might open a ticket. Thank you

[sonic canopy]

i am assembling a G2E ( Filametrix Cutter) and using the LDO kit. My kit came with (2) 8mm shims, but I don't see where the 2nd one is used...?

[sonic canopy]

I see many have been asking about the shims in the past. At this point I am assuming that LDO just included a spare

[heavy gulch]

Sorry if this may be a stupid question. Im self sourcing a voron 2.4 300. I already ordered the galielo extruder kit and a octopus pro controller board with tmc 2240 stepper motors. I wanna install the canbus and cartographer in it, which i still didnt order. What do you guys recommend and how will it fit ?

[candid goblet]

Hey, what an adventure.
This channel is for Galileo, your question is probably best in #voron_2_discussion or the V2 forum channel. If you want to deep drive on CAN questions then #can_and_usb_toolhead_boards

[heavy gulch]

Thanks will do that

[candid goblet]

I don't know if you crossposted, but please do not. You could split up your question for example to direct parts to their best channel

[quaint charm]

What extrude speeds are reasonable? I just build my G2E and get skipping when trying to extrude at 25mm/s. This is with the filament directly fed into the extruder, no bowden tube. PLA - 210C

[timid wing]

I'm not surprised if you try 25mm/s

that is 60mm3/s

[quaint charm]

ok how did you do that math? My limit is 24mm3/s in my slicer

[timid wing]

that is basic volume calculation (V = π r2 h)

[quaint charm]

ok, so about 10mm/s

[timid wing]

and then you get skipping? which hotend?

[quaint charm]

Rapido UHF

[timid wing]

which motor current?

[quaint charm]

good point, let me check

run_current: 0.65

[timid wing]

6.5?!?!?

[quaint charm]

sorry, had to edit

[timid wing]

and you are sure that it is skipping? do you hear it skipping? or do you just assume that?

[quaint charm]

I hear a noise, and no filament comes out the extruder

[timid wing]

remove the filament and show us a photo of the spot where the gear touched the filament

I find it rather implausible that G2E skips with 0.65 run current without grinding down the filament

[quaint charm]

Not extruder, hotend.

it looks to me that the extruder is really digging in hard.

[quartz kite]

Apart from adjusting the flowrate, you will likely have better success printing PLA at 230C+, 210C is rather cold and can easily lead to clogging

Additionally, make sure the doors are open and the top panel removed on the printer to avoid heat creep

[midnight oak]

Have you tried trimming the knob off the end of your filament? Whenever mine ends up with that it won't fit down far enough and the extruder ends up skipping

[proper perch]

Trying to source a G2E kit but they're all out of stock everywhere? anyone know why?

[candid goblet]

Can you please click a flag in #rules ? Nobody can really help you until then because we don't know where in the world you are

[lethal drum]

Where are you from?

[quaint charm]

Can someone help explain how long the PTFE tubing should be? I've determined that my extruding issue is the filament hitting the tubing. I determined the length of tubing by assembling the hotend and kept cutting off tubing until it fit. Should it be in a far as possible or could this be leading to my issue?

I have enlarged the end of the tubing like before and that did help, but I still get failures to load. I have 4mm OD and 2.5mm ID any reason to not use it?

[slender briar]

You could try a chamfer on the inside edge of the tube

[quaint charm]

Turns out it was not the tube at all. I had a piece of filament stuck in the opening of the "Plug Core" of the Rapido HF hotend. Never had that happen before. Had to completely disassemble it

[minor merlin]

Is it ok/normal that the part with the thumb screw in can move a bit? Filament is loaded and I need 3,5 turns otherwise it‘s not extruding properly

[minor merlin]

@final shadow : Could you help here?

[final shadow]

I can’t say that I’ve ever physically tried to flex/bend G2E in that direction… number of turns sounds fine, and gap looks good for filament loaded.

Was there an issue, or what brought up the question?

[minor merlin]

I got kinda really bad IS values and something on the toolhead at 125Hz is vibrating. Checked everything already if correct attached (screws etc.) and found that „movement“. Before at the CW2 the IS looks much better. But in the meantime I found out my VT gantry is a bit racked. Will correct that and see how it looks

[calm radish]

125.. Running Tap?

[final shadow]

Understood, thanks for the clarifications.

[minor merlin]

Nope. Klicky

[proper perch]

Sorry haven't had time to sit at my computer.. due to work. I live in the United States cuurently

[lethal drum]

Hm, if none of the vendors in Vendor section of this discord have it, IDK where to source it in the US 😦

[void tangle]

Filastruder had some a couple days ago.

[proper perch]

And they still do! Thanks @void tangle

[void tangle]

https://www.filastruder.com/products/ldo-galileo-v2-kit?_pos=1&_sid=bf2255b11&_ss=r

[languid ginkgo]

This was asked previously, but does anybody have a good unload filament macro for Galileo 2 and Rapido 2 that's working for you? Having an issue with filament slightly blobbing and getting caught in the extruder. Voron 2.4r2 with Stealthburner version of Galileo 2. Filament load works great, and extruder is working awesome for printing. Can share my existing macro, but all it does right now is extrude 25mm at F1000 then retracts 101mm at F1500 speed. Printing ABS.

[outer ore]

I use a Filametrix G2E cutter and with the cutter, I always get nice clean ends. That would be my recommendation. This may be a more up to date version: https://github.com/thunderkeys/FilamATrix

[quaint charm]

I'm having the same issue. The blob gets stuck in the hotend, extruder or my mmu encoder.

What are people using for the run_current? 0.60?

When I try to form a tip it starts with a very high speed 80-100. I think my motor is not turrning as I don't feel the filmaent move. I'm wondering if this is in turn leading to my poor filament extraction.

[languid ginkgo]

I'm running 0.60, which is the recommended current for the Galileo 2. Stealthchop is disabled. Thankfully, it doesn't get caught in the hotend, seems to get caught somewhere in the filament path of the extruder. I'm researching the Filamatrix that was linked previously, also trying to figure out if I need to do a tip forming exercise.

[sterile condor]

I don't know if this will work for you guys, but for my G2SA I've been using the 'default' unload profile that was in my printer.cfg and it seems to work to form a nice tip without jamming in the extruder:
G1 E10 F300 ; extrude a little to soften tip
G1 E-40 F1800 ; retract some, but not too much or it will jam

It extrudes just a little bit and then immediately retracts the blob out of the hotend, but NOT into the extruder gears. After this, you can add a G4 wait command for the tip to solidify, and then a further retract to get it past the extruder. You will probably need to play with the retract length to account for your hotend (I'm using TZ2.0).

[onyx crescent]

The unload/load macros in jschuh’s km klipper-macros works well for me, using G2E with phaetus dragon. The caveat is he doesn’t have a mechanism for disabling all the other macros he includes. You can comment out the files, but then have to work around various errors. It was a hassle for me, anyways, not the time for me to start learning the intricacies of klipper macros. Give his unload macro a try though. And maybe then disable them unless you like. A problem I ran into with his macros and my other printer is that it wouldn’t clear Z-offset changes between saves+reboot, so z-offset changes kept compounding. On that printer, I only enable his macros when I want to use load/unload. On the V2, I tried to just selectively include only a few of his macros, which is not as straightforward as it should be, basically unsupported, and I still get some warnings for my trouble.

[waxen jungle]

I tried to do a search, but couldn't find anything... What size of grub screw is supposed to be in the extruder gear? My kit didn't have one so I'm sol rn

[void tangle]

Sure it's not in already?

[waxen jungle]

It's a clear empty hole right through. I peered into it hoping the screw would magically materialize through the power of thought

there doesn't seem to be an extra baggie with a single grub screw in it either

[waxen jungle]

It's M4x4. Was able to source locally 🙂

[mild fossil]

Curious, If I ever desired to build a non SB toolhead, Is there any difference between the G2E and the stand alone? Other than the printed parts. As I am running a G2E in stealthburner form.

[ruby jasper]

Functionally, no. Just a different form factor for use in toolheads other than Stealthburner. Also look at the Wristwatch G2. Slightly different aesthetic and a little simpler construction.

[cerulean hinge]

I printed a new front body and my sb2209 didn't fit. I can't remember, is there an STL for the SB2209 version?

[brittle bough]

I am struggling with the extruder of the TinyT I am building, in retract it always works, in extrude it sometimes works sometimes binds and buzzes without moving. I suspected a bad wiring, but it seems ok, and if it were two swapped wires it would behave consistently wrong. What should I check?

It is a galileo2 standalone built using an LDO kit

Currently running at 0.65 current, but if I change it, it only changes the buzzing volume

[candid goblet]

all things being equal, I think you should take it apart to make sure all the gear meshing is correct

you did add grease to the planetary gears?

[brittle bough]

Yes, I am going to strip it and re-check everything after diner

Is it possible that a mechanical oversight causes it to bind only about half of the times, and only inone direction? 🤔

[candid goblet]

I haven't assembled enough of them to answer that. I did notice it binds if not lubricated

but probably not enough to stop a motor set at the right current

[brittle bough]

Mmm, let's see what I find when I take it apart 🤷‍♂️

[candid goblet]

It is not delivered lubricated

[brittle bough]

Pulled it apart... Back together... Seems ok now... 🤦‍♂️

[onyx crescent]

If it starts acting up again, immediately suspect the wiring. I’m a strong believer in the rule of thumb, “90% of the time, the problem is the wiring.”

My orbiter 1.5 started doing something similar to yours. Murphy’s law is was bound to happen while printing parts for my 2.4 build, and sure enough, during the home stretch, when I just “needed” (wanted) it to work without having to mess with it. Redoing the female jst connector helped, but didn’t eliminate the problem. I narrowed the problem to one pin, and wound up re-crimping that one a time or two. Still got random drop offs. I did not want to redo the male connector. Eventually I redid the male connector. Problem solved. But I have some ugly skirts, the front ones of course, as punishment for my stubbornness, putting off replacement of the entire connector.

[bronze warren]

I don’t have print quality issues but lately CW2 is tiring me a lot
Gear alignment issues, tension issues, etc…
After fixing the gear alignment the problems seemed to solve but I feel like something is gonna happen again
I am totally new to extruders and I was wondering would it be good idea to switch Galileo 2? It seems like it is easier to assemble and put it correctly
I have sb2209 rp2040 and I think Galileo 2 is compatible with that
Could someone give advices? I’m also open to other extruder models
( stealthburner )

[languid ginkgo]

I recently finished my Voron 2.4r2 and also wasn't happy with the CW2 on the first few prints, so I went with Galileo 2 pretty much right away and I'm very happy with it. It just worked. No backlash settings, no funky anti-squish screw, and I'm seeing very consistent extrusion with it. My only minor quibble is the spring-loaded filament release which is difficult to use when on the other side of a long reverse bowden tube; I work around this with filament load and unload macros, but sometimes I wish it had a latch.
I'm also using the Stealthburner version, and have a SB2209 rp2040 and it fits fine (you will NOT need the spacer, it just bolts straight in). I did have to try out a few umbilical mounts for the PG7. Let me know if you want to know the one I ended up using,

[bronze warren]

Hey, yeah that would be great actually I was also looking some pg7 mounts and couldn’t decide which is better

But unfortunately I didn’t understand the minor problem you are having, could you explain it a bit more?

[velvet imp]

Latch existence is a preference thing. I personally think it's useless, didn't use it on clockwork as well - just good filament load/unload macros and you're fine.

[bronze warren]

Does Galileo 2 uses the same type and size of pcb cover as CW2?

[languid ginkgo]

In essence, although it is slightly different to fit the Galileo 2 (on the Github). However I added a fan mod as the SB2209 rp2040 was hitting 80C. https://www.printables.com/model/984617-galileo-2-cable-cover-with-3010-blower-fan. Using a temperature_fan at 55C target, the tool board now sits around 65C.

[languid ginkgo]

I ended up using this one: https://www.printables.com/model/1077552-pg7-mount-for-galileo-2-extruder. I had to modify it via the STEP /F360 and add a slot so I could route the CAN wiring through it before screwing down the PG7. It was a quick hack, I probably need to spend more time on it and post it as a remix. Since it moves it over to the left side, make sure the CAN cable doesn't hang up on the Z axis cable chain when homing.

[languid ginkgo]

This is very true. I tend to like latches. I also use load and unload macros, which I had to mess with a bit to keep the filament from getting caught somewhere along the path... but they are working pretty flawlessly now. The Voron is my first enclosed printer with a reverse bowden (all my others are open frame with just 2-3 inch of PTFE sticking out of the top of the extruder), so I've been used to loading and unloading filament directly.

[hybrid wadi]

I'm assembling a G2E kit from LDO (rev c) using the current docs (14may2024). I'm at page 36 and while everything is going to plan, the presence of friction once the drive gear is secured to the shaft makes me ask, should there be friction when I rotate the shaft now? I've seen this asked a couple of times in this thread but most of the answers seem a bit vague. All of the youtube videos I could find appear to be the previous rev of this with some slightly different assembly directions. it does seem a little odd that there's zero play in the shaft to allow alignment of the filament. The action currently is smooth no binding, just seems odd that there's friction present, as well as the drive gear seated flush with the printed surface.

[sacred granite]

i found if the gears werent meshed properly when you try to rotate the shaft you'll get a noticable stop - if they're just tough to turn its probably just coming up against the resistance of the motor

[hybrid wadi]

This is before the steeper motor / ring gear is mated to the planetary gear set. At the stage in this picture.

[kindred egret]

galileo 2 motor does not run, it produces humming sounds

[kindred egret]

nvm I broke the wire while shortening them

[little sapphire]

I just finished buidling and installing Galileo 2 on my 2.4 but it is not extruding filament. It vibrates a lot when trying to extrude. I tried adjusting the thumbscrew but no tnesion seems to work

[calm radish]

Sound like either wrong wire order or (hopefully not) a broken wire

[little sapphire]

Comparing the new motor with the old one I can see the wire colors don't match. I'll try to re-wire it and see if it works

[little sapphire]

Fixing the wire order didn't fix it. It still vibrates without extruding anything

[little sapphire]

I took it apart and put it back together and it works now. Not sure what was wrong

[calm radish]

Possible you had it a tooth off in the planetary gearbox

[chrome scarab]

Currently issued serials:
V2: 7774
V0: 3959
V1/VT: 1892
VS: 933
VL: 108
VK: 19
V24: 1
Total: 14686

[onyx crescent]

Revisiting what garagebound was alluding to a couple weeks ago, has anybody placed a tiny bit of lubricant between the G2E back face of the gear and the housing? Since it’s seated tight against the housing before the grub screw is tightened, this seems like an obvious source of what I assume to be undesirable friction. I have my G2E apart yesterday, doing some maintenance, and tightened things up a little too much, to see if it would improve input shaper graphs (it didn’t). This resulted in me having to raise current to 0.6A (I was running 0.3A before, which has successfully lowered problematic heat). So it’s back apart today again. I printed the knob from the G2SA, to make it easier to manually rotate the shaft, and I have to say I am really not happy with the amount of static friction that must be overcome to start rotating the motor. I’m tempted to wick a small drop of silicone oil between gear back and housing, to see if this improves things. My concern of course would be silicone migrating to the gear teeth which would cause mischief.

If anybody has advice on this matter, please ping me…especially if your advice is ‘don’t place lubricant between back of gear and plastic!’. I’m going to be cleaning out and replacing the grease in the planetary housing, since it looks like there are fine brass dust mixed in, from wear between brass motor gear and aluminum spider gear. So there’s time to warn me before I apply silicone to the other side!

[onyx crescent]

Just to follow up, there wasn’t any brass shavings in the grease I used in my G2E. The Mobil Polyrex EP2 I used in there simply turned from it’s nice looking green color, to an ugly brown. In hindsight, I would have preferred to use Christolube in there, which would have remained a pristine white. I did end up wicking a little bit of silicone oil into the gap indicated by the toothpick. I doubt it was necessary. What I did do this time around, is I used my torque screwdriver, set on its lowest possible setting of 2 in-lb, (~0.25N-m) to test for binding. After careful reassembly, no binding was detected, and I’m back to 0.3A, which is the lowest I can go. I’ve put a ventilated cover on my SB…don’t much care for the looks, but I feel the solid cover was trapping too much heat for the EBB’s 2209 driver. I’ll probably raise current to 0.4A for some more headroom. I suspect with the ventilated cover, 0.6A would be ok too. With the solid cover, 0.6A defo not ok here, it just trapped way too much heat.

Somebody might ask in the future, otherwise, so here’s a pic of the knob from the G2 standalone’s distro, used to rotate the spider gear shaft of my G2E. A 17mm socket fits it perfectly.

[vague palm]

Not sure if it will help you much but in my printed G2E parts the hobbed gear has a fraction of a mm clearance from the rear plastic part. If you align the filament path with the hobbed gear ridges you’ll see that it needs a bit of clearance to be fully centered

[brisk egret]

Hello all has anyone had any luck with a Galielo/Filametrix build for the Box Turtle?

[void tangle]

Might want to ask in the BoxTurtle discord, but I believe @dense island does/did.

[dense island]

there's been a lot of recent serials with G2E/FilamATrix.

so it's totally workable.

https://github.com/thunderkeys/FilamAtrix/

the main downside would be if you need a hotend that's not listed, then you probably want to stick with G2E-Filmetrix (which is now archived/deprecated upstream)

I do have a mount for bambu hotends that's being tested. so far we have oen person who successfully serialed using that

[brisk egret]

I think this is what I am looking for. Using Revo so it should be fine.

Thank you much.

[dense island]

no problem

[onyx crescent]

Thank you in advance for your work on this😀 I’m currently printing parts for a Quattro Box. Have G2E and Dragon HF, and will be looking to your FilamATrix mod when I get the electronics for the poor man’s AMS squared away.

[forest sierra]

Hi, I've got a G2E kit from LDO. Anyone else had trouble with tight fitting MR115 bearings on carrier? There is no way they are going to "slide easily" on as the manual implies.

[void tangle]

Sand the end of the rod a little to give it a tiny champer l.

[still shadow]

Hello am wondering if it's normal to require 5-6 turns of tension on G2E? (running ABS atm)
Manual calls for 2 full turns from fully loose but I've found that if I leave it at that it wont push the filament through the nozzle.
It does push it all the way to the tip of the nozzle then it looks like it looses torque and refuses to push further for it to actually extrude
If I add tension around 5 or 6 turns then it seems to work

[little sapphire]

What can cause the Galileo 2 clicking noise while printing? It's extruding fine but it likes to click every two seconds

[candid goblet]

The Gorn

[onyx crescent]

Bad wiring will do it. Overheating stepper driver too. And filament ground into the hob gear also.

Also, if your spool isn’t feeding smoothly, say it’s catching and adding resistance to the feed intermittently

[quartz kite]

Another reason can also be that you're not printing hot enough which is creating back pressure within the hotend

[onyx crescent]

Yup, I’ve also experienced that.

Lots of ducks to line up in a row 🦆 🦆 🦆

[hexed fulcrum]

anyone using the wristwatch G2 extruder with filament sensing? Is the planetary carrier supposed to have 1-2mm of play like the G2SA? The manual discussed pulling the gear, but using the latest files on my end there is zero play.

[spark pendant]

I'm currently building an EnderNG, and thinking about using a Galileo 2. I think I've drank too much of the "single gear more better" koolaid

I see the github files are two years old, is that still the right place to grab the STLs from?

[hexed fulcrum]

yes, the files are still good

[spark pendant]

Thanks. Are there any kits that are recommended over others?

[hexed fulcrum]

only kit I know of is the LDO one.

[spark pendant]

Thanks, I saw a bunch of options on aliexpress, I'll try to find a legit LDO one

[oblique mesa]

I am on the same page and I have the same question like you. What was your final solution on this?

[hybrid wadi]

I decided to just go with what I had and so far it seems to be working without issue. I’d still like to have some assurance that what we’re seeing is either correct and/or update the manual with some context around it.

[oblique mesa]

With this “tightness” I realized the filament path is a little big off center when I peek through the filament hole, so I assume the filament and the gear would self aligned?

[hybrid wadi]

I couldn't see down into the assembled extruder body on mine to verify the alignment. Running filament manually through it seemed to turn the steeper motor with not odd or concerning noises.

[oblique mesa]

i will try a few prints today , the latest updated manual has totally different method than the last version, and there is no explanation about it.

[quaint charm]

Does anyone know of a mod for the G2SA to include a filament sensor? I'd like to switch to the dragon burner, but don't want to give up my filament sensor.

[sterile condor]

I know the WWG2 (Wristwatch G2) has a mod for both entry and exit filament sensors: https://github.com/bythorsthunder/Voron_Mods/tree/main/Wristwatch_G2_Dual_Filament_Sensor

https://github.com/tetsu97/WristWatch-G2-Extruder/tree/main

[tribal fjord]

So I am rebuilding my Galileo with new printed parts so they match and I notice this

Is this just filament grinding ?

[candid goblet]

My G2SA knob keeps flying off with my insane speeds. I realized that the way to go is to leave it off when not in use to reduce toolhead weight

[onyx crescent]

Looks like it.

[calm radish]

Jontek has one with a grub screw

[candid goblet]

Yeah, I know. I think it was a M4 and I'm like wtf, I don't have any M4s

[tribal fjord]

So what would cause a Galileo 2 to grind filament? I didn't seem to have any print quality issues.

[stuck spruce]

Can you use white lithium grease in the planetary part?

[gleaming reef]

Anyone else had issues with PET-CF?
I just ran PLA at 20 mm3/s, but galileo 2 doesn't want to push any filament, the filament melts like butter when I manually extrude

[bronze warren]

I did a really stupid mistake and broke this little piece inside from ECAS Fitting
Is there any way it would work without it? :/

G2E

[hexed gate]

probably not

[bronze warren]

Is it normal that it was impossible to put the blue part ( where we open or close for thr ptfe tube ) to ECAS Fitting, I tried everything and it didnt go any inside to ECAS