Galileo general information and discussion

[sage widget]

what speeds are you trying to print it at

[sleek olive]

with cw2 i can 3,5mm3/s, with g2e 2mm3/s not help

[sage widget]

I'm printing 95A TPU with it and it can go up to 10mm3/s no problem

just have to make sure there is not tension on the filament that's being fed in

[sleek olive]

30D=80A is soft, 95A is hard thats why you can print 10mm...

[viscid ember]

Anybody tried the orbiter filament run out sensor on the Galileo g2 standalone version ?

[jaunty lily]

Hi guys, I just ordered a Galileo 2 kit and am currently going through the manual to familiarize myself before it arrives. Quick question. I have an umbilical setup with PG7s. Does anyone have a model that allows for such config? Only thing I've found is this and I'm unsure about it: https://www.printables.com/model/659896-galileo-2-g2e-lp-12-pg7-umbilical-3do-nozzle-camer

[jaunty lily]

Also any recommendations on grease for the planetary gear?

[sleek olive]

ngli 1

[abstract stirrup]

tried printing tpu and getting some awesome results. Very impressed with new extruder design.

[sleek olive]

hi, what tpu? i cant prit 30D.

[abstract stirrup]

I have this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07WDS7ZTY

[peak mason]

Check the official G2 repo. Has multiple mods to deal with umbilical setups.

[jaunty lily]

will do thx!

[blissful epoch]

This is my mod. I am waiting for my G2E to ship but this is modeled to be used with the 3DO Nozzle Cam board mounted to the back. I if you just want the umbilical that will work with PG7 just use the one hartk upload to the git.

[jaunty lily]

Thank you! 🙂

[final shadow]

For those without a local reseller…

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006272643489.html

Yes, this is an official kit.

[clear trench]

I'm interested in g2e, and noticed it includes it's own cable cover. I assume it's not compatible with the CW2 one? I need a place to mount my can fan.

[ancient briar]

It is not the same, but I edited it to hold a fan and its posted in here somewhere.

https://discordapp.com/channels/460117602945990666/1160715888048218193/1170752499985174559

[clear trench]

Thanks! That looks more practical (but not as fancy looking) as the press-fit one I'm using with CW2.

[modest topaz]

Tried Googling Euclid Probe with galileo2....
That sent me on a tour of the universe. So...
Turns out the nice Euclid team have a GitHub with dedicated Voron 2.4 STLs of the X axis carriage pair for CW2. Will the same work for G2E as well?

[sage widget]

yes, the G2E mounts the same way as CW2

it's basically a drop in replacement

[modest topaz]

Thanks buddy.

[vital light]

Does Galileo 2, purely talking print quality, not speed,( maybe tpu compatibility) improve over CW2 significantly?

And is it worth going for it not where it still kinda says beta release (unless that changed recently) or would it be worth waiting for full release? reading back through this channel, there still seem to be some smaller issues with the beta design? looks incredible if it works well, but some people have issues with their extruders?

It seems it it works well it would be a good improvement over CW2, but worth the hassle right now, if I have a well working CW2 (except TPU... I simply cannot get that to print reliably... probably also because of my dragon HF clogging or sth)

[hasty cliff]

CW2 has a shorter bowden so it should work better for soft stuff. The longer Bowden, smooth idler and bigger pushing gear helps with layer consistency effectively fighting woodgrain and similar extrusin problems. If you dont face them and are happy with how your walls look, then CW2 is fine as is.

[vital light]

hm, if CW2 is already the better flexibles solution mine must be build badly (or the dragon is really unuseable for them)... no matter how slow I go, it always "escapes" before entering the bowden.

But thants for the explanation, I will then wait, until G2 is fully releaed

[sage widget]

there won't be any major changes I think to it

[subtle scroll]

there's a more-tightly-constrained cw2 mod, iirc

[marble lynx]

I just ordered GA2 and now searching for an EBB36 mount or an alternative CAN board which fits it. Any recommendations?

[vital light]

Hmm, I read something about an added shim in the last posts? And some issues with some kits in terms of fitment?

[vital light]

Was thinking about that as well

[sage widget]

the shim is already included in all kits since the MJF parts 2nd batch

[vital light]

So you're saying it's your fault I now ordered a kit :O?

[sage widget]

perhaps

[vital light]

Damn

[tired oracle]

Hi. Has anyone tried G2 with stealthburner? Mine doesn't sit properly in the hothend and I just can't screw it to the linear rail carriage frame. I have to cut the feet about 2-3mm. Does this happen to anyone else? Printed twice and happens the same.

[sage widget]

nope, mine sits flush into the gantry mount, if the hotend sticks out a bit it may be because the PTFE tube is a bit long

I had to trim mine down a bit after cutting it to size

[tired oracle]

Strange...it wasn't the ptfe tube because it sits perfectly outside the carriage. I'm using chaoticlab cnc tap....it may be it. But everything seems to be according the specs

[hardy dagger]

do we need to reprint all the skirts for g2z or just the corner pieces?

[oblique cypress]

For the G2E / SB2209. Is there an Umbilical cable holder that isn't PG7 or M12? would like to use the standard wire method from the BTT guide. Thanks

[obtuse light]

I've just installed the G2E on my 2.4. The motor seems to be running very hot, is this normal? I have set the run current at 0.6

[subtle scroll]

g2e+sb+printed tap r8 is what I have been using

[peak mason]

Not sure what you mean by the G2 not sitting properly in the hotend. A problem though that some people had is that they didn't shove the PTFE tube high up enough into the G2's filament path because its whole was too tight.

The problem then has multiple manifestations depending on how long exactly your PTFE tube is cut, but if it is on the longer side then you cannot install the hotend anymore because the tube is keeping the extruder and the hotend too far apart. So this might be the problem you're having (even 1-2mm counts).

If this is your problem, and assuming your PTFE tube is cut correctly and not too long, I recommend drilling up the tube's path using a 4mm drill bit instead of cutting the tube shorter than specified, because an improperly inserted tube that is short WILL lead to filament loading issues, as was the case for multiple users already.

[formal trench]

hey there. any chance you can post a few close ups of the strain relief as the canbus cable goes down, through then u turns back up to connect into the canbus board from the top again?

just finished building my G2. REally impressed how precise the assembly is. even the mated male and female groove and boss system on the outer radius of the ring gear and the outer housing. Even the MR115 housings have holes for removal of a failed of damaged bearing .... very well thought out.

[woeful violet]

Having trouble feeding filament to Galileo 2, appears to get blocked right at the exit into the teflon tube shaft. Any ideas on what might be the cause and/or how to fix this?

[formal trench]

try cutting 60 degree angle on your filament. - oh did you use the single 29.8mm piece or the short add on with the SB upgrade?

[woeful violet]

Thanks, increased length of tube to 42mm (Drago HE) and cut filament at 60 degree angle as instructed, first time I managed to make the filament pass, about to start printing, fingers crossed!

[formal trench]

glad it worked. good luck with your print. I still have not installed mine yet. it is a major heart surgery to get the canbus cable completely out and re thread all the new flexi glands in

[sage widget]

didn't you use PG7 glands?

[stray oracle]

Not sure someone answered i use the chaotic cnc tap without issues with the galileo2 and sb

[stray oracle]

The ptfe tube goes very high into the g2 i needed a lot of force to put it where it should. Since then no feed problem.
I add that i have a pccf g2 mount which is VERY tight. Gorilla arms were needed.

[stray oracle]

Yeah i didnt do the surgery i use a key cab for the moment. Waiting for a cad genius to come with a solution where you dont need to gut the printer to add a can cable support.

[sage widget]

I also use a can cable but instead I use PG7 glands that allow me to quickly unscrew them and take it off instead of redoing the wiring

[woeful violet]

I agree, I had trouble removing the short tube and used quite a bit of force, destroying the tube in the process. With the 42mm tube finally in I don't seem to have any more problems pulling the filament all the way to the HE. I first printed a benchy with no changes to the settings (CW2) and it turned out just as nice as with CW2, I'd actually say it was a tad nicer.

[woeful violet]

My canbus cable is still dangling from the top of the printer. Is there a tried and trusted solution for this problem?

[ancient briar]

Yes

[formal trench]

have SB installed. only has one x PG7 and that is at the cable chain at the electronics bay at the rear. problem is that I have to pull the entire cable out and re thread with the PG7 ABS part on the back of the new extruder + gland plus flexi fitting x 2 then feed it all back into the eletronics bay again.

[sage widget]

mine has PG7 on both ends so if I need to take it off the toolhead I just unplug the XT30+2, unscrew the PG7 and out with the cable, only when I need to get to the electronics bay it's a problem

[formal trench]

maybe someone should just do a plug that screws just belwo the top cover so that all you need to do it strip it back that far and leave the rest under teh electronics bay undisturbed. I think that could be a better solution. Just like a vehicle does.

[sage widget]

there is such a mod available that uses interlocking connectors

those add weight but it is doable

[formal trench]

was going to do this out the rear of the machine out the exhaust vent and zip die it down the back cover

that way the loom can simply be opened up and the wires pulled back into the print space when repairs are needed.

leave the other side connected and simply re connect the 4 wires when repairs are done. or just remove the 2 SH screws on the PG7 support on the back of hte G2

[obtuse light]

Hoping someone with the galileo here could provide some feedback on stepper temps

[sage widget]

define very hot

[ancient briar]

Is it normal that I dont need the shim? Infact with the shim the planets rub the injection housing and it doesnt sit flush with the rear housing

[sleek nacelle]

I have mjf parts and the print quality hasn’t been as amazing if not worse than my CW. I saw someone got injected parts and it was night and day.

[subtle scroll]

That's very surprising. I have had better performance from my mjf g2e than the cw2 I replaced

[hasty cliff]

I have two G2E both without shims. If well build it shouldn’t rub on the screw heads. I tried the shims but then the whole assembly was cramped and couldn’t move as freely.

[ancient briar]

Ok cool, so not just me, there is no way the scews are hitting anything on mine. Thanks!

[meager inlet]

anyone know if there's a door fan mod for G2E that fits for SB2040?

I believe the fan size is 30x30

[ancient briar]

I made a 2525 fan door

@meager inlet I could probably make it 30x30 if you need, search posts in this chat from me with a file attached. It will show up

[meager inlet]

I printed that one and realized my fan is the 30x30 5v

[ancient briar]

I can make an edit to it pretty sure a 3010 will fit

Did it print well?

[meager inlet]

that would be great! I found a 2510 in my pile of parts but it's 12v so I can't use it

[ancient briar]

Give me any feedback you can on how it printed and I'll adjust when I resize it

I'll be home in an hour or two and I'll take a Crack at it.

[meager inlet]

This is the one I got here like a month ago or so

Had no problems printing it as I just got around to it today but not the right size I need

[ancient briar]

Have a picture?

I didn't get a chance to print it

[meager inlet]

This is the original that fits CW2/SB

press fits on the inside

[vital light]

Uhh, got the parts today. Pleasantly supprised the plastic parts are Injection molded 😮 Noice.

[ancient briar]

Am home, will see what I can do. Does it need the option for screws, or should I make it purly press fit?

[meager inlet]

Press for would be ideal so I don’t have to bolt it in and add weight

[ancient briar]

says the one using a 3010 😛

[meager inlet]

Just using what I have on hand. Used it for nearly a year before going G2E

[lapis smelt]

hey mate can you send me that stl for the g2e fan cover mod please

[ancient briar]

I have it open to modify it to be purly press fit right now

Also to make a 3010 version

[lapis smelt]

i need the 3010 version please my board runs way to hot haha

[ancient briar]

Im going to design it "safe" then if you print it, and I have more tolerance I can push the fan further in

[ancient briar]

@lapis smelt @meager inlet If either print it, let me know if there are problems.

[modest topaz]

Hi. Friends I need a suggestion on whether the 4 bolts used to mount the Dragon ST hotend onto the toolhead which is finally mounted to the G2E uses the Red threadlock or none?

[subtle scroll]

Don't use red threadlock

I don't use any threadlock on those, but could maybe see using purple/blue/vibratite, maybe. Red will end badly eventually

Over time, it is not uncommon for a hotend mount to warp, or for the screws to pull through the print if the hotend fan fails. Fighting red at that point probably leads to replacing the hotend

[modest topaz]

Thanks. I see a need for some threadlock since the hotend has some mass and the entire SB assembly is flung around. Imagine what taking input shaper readings would be doing to the mount. I guess that mount would not be getting very hot so the Blue threadlock should serve adequately.

[subtle scroll]

I run input shaper periodically. End up rebuilding my hotends every 500h or so for various reasons. Only noticed looseness on those screws once or twice. Good luck

[restive sun]

made a thing for a 3007 fan remix of @frail path 's for the G2E and SB2209/SB2040

[lapis smelt]

thanks legend

[meager inlet]

I’ll print it in the morning

[ancient briar]

Dont use threadlock when plastic is involved

[ancient briar]

@lapis smelt @meager inlet Either have a chance to print it yet?

[cloud fern]

Any ideas how to use G2SA + EBB36 with the stock voron X chain?. specifically the X chain on a switchwire.

attempting to put together a new xol toolhead

[meager inlet]

Sorry, yes I was able to print it successfully. Only problem is the door hits the PG7 mount so i had to unscrew the mount to put the door on.

[ancient briar]

How did it interfere?

[meager inlet]

the bump out for the fan hits it. I don't really open and close that door so it's not a big deal

[ancient briar]

Can you show me a Pic

[ancient briar]

Ah I bet the stock door would come close to hitting that

[meager inlet]

yeah the gland mount needs to be a bit longer to avoid it

[ancient briar]

Could trim the corner of the nut too.

Can you see in the back to see how much clearance there is to the can board?

[meager inlet]

the gland mount is already pretty flimsy as it is. I had to glue it

making it a bit longer wouldn't even effect the Y axis

[ancient briar]

I see, suboptimal layers

Did it print well without supports? the overhang for the fan cavity worried me a tad.

[meager inlet]

the arm isn't even mounted flush with the top part of the galileo SB housing because of the door

there was some droopage because I didn't use supports. Had I turned them on it would look better.

[ancient briar]

Seems better to modify the mount than the door it seems, yea

[meager inlet]

If you can drop the fan position down a few mm it'll allow the PG7 gland arm to sit flush but still not going to allow the door to open and close

[ancient briar]

I dont think it has room to drop

[meager inlet]

yeah then the arm needs quite a few mm extension

I don't think adding would disrupt homing Y or hit the back acrylic

[ancient briar]

My heater died when I went to test print it, and short on cash so cant buy a new one right now.

[meager inlet]

on second thought, any longer it could interfere with the z cable chain

maybe just lengthen the stretch where the gland mounts

[fickle peak]

I'm assembling g2sa and can't get either of the MR148 bearings onto the carrier shaft. I can get the extruder gear onto the carrier shaft with some gentle wiggling but the bearings get stuck and don't slide onto the carrier shaft at all. Any ideas?

[normal pulsar]

any been able to ge the 2 piece breakout board to fit on the Galileo 2? i have the LDO version im wording if it is not compatible....

[normal pulsar]

mine was a super tight fit. after clean i just ended up using some force and a wiggle and it went

[fickle peak]

I'm using the ldo 2 piece toolhead board on my g2e sb

[fickle peak]

ill try cleaning the shaft

[normal pulsar]

did you use a pcb spacer? im so confused why mine is interfering with the cable chain mount ever so slightly

[fickle peak]

nope, no pcb spacer.

[normal pulsar]

i notice you dont have the cable chain mount attached are we supposed to forgo these or is there a special one for the 2 piece LDO breakout PCB?

[atomic haven]

There is a specific cable chain mount that comes with G2E files that gives you a little more room for the motor plug in. I will say it is still kinda tight and needs to be plugged in before mounting the PCB

[normal pulsar]

is that what _tallboard means?

[atomic haven]

Yes

[normal pulsar]

my hero thank you very much

[atomic haven]

it provides a little more space under the chain mount for the board and the motor connection. I still think it is a lot easier to plug the motor in before mounting the PCB though

[fickle peak]

Using the tallboard with chamber thermistor mount on my sb

[normal pulsar]

thanks guys i appreciate your help

[atomic haven]

I'd link you a file, but I don't know if you want the thermistor and idk which chain you have

[normal pulsar]

ive been poking around on the repo for an hour trying to figure out what i did wrong. cant believe i didnt even open up the _tallboard option for a look 😫

[atomic haven]

to your defense, I don't think he mentions the tallboards in the read me

[fickle peak]

Cleaning the carrier shaft for my G2SA didn't help, still can't get the bearings on so I tested the MR148 bearings on the carrier shaft of my previously built G2E and they slide on effortlessly.

[winter tiger]

quick question about the lube for the G2 gearbox: Mobilux EP 2 or Super Lube Multi-purpose synthetic grease (ptfe) (21030)?

[sage widget]

superlube if you have it but if not EP2 will do

[winter tiger]

Fully stocked on both actually, that’s why I’m asking. Anyway, thanks!

I've got other high end stuff like Kytox 205g0 and Tribosys 3203. would those work any better?

(I won't use them up for my keyboards in this lifetime anyway, might as well find a better use)

[subtle scroll]

Superlube is fine

[random sinew]

I have a quick question, and appologize if I missed it somewhere. I just installed my new Galileo 2 on my Stealthburner and I am using a SB2209 CanBus. I am looking for a toolhead mount to keep my CanBus cable firmly connected. I have yet to find one. I am just checking if anyone else has seen this yet?

[sage widget]

check the usermods folder in the G2 repo, there are some umbilical mounts there

[random sinew]

Thank you for the speedy reply. I will check them out.

[somber shell]

Depending on chamber temperatures and what surfaces you are contacting

I dont know anything about hte gearbox but I know lube

Super lube is fumed silica thickened with syntehtic oil base (PAO)

Mobilux is a basic liithium soap, with a mineral base

Krytox and tribosys areb oth PFPE/PTFE but the issue is they are NLGI 0 and would easily drip plus not viscous enough

Superlube and Mobilux are not meant for higher tmeperatures

Superlube actually isn't rlly meant o lubericate anything but sliding motion or very slow intermittent movements like say in a ratchet wrench or what not

It looks you have metal + plastic so depending on plastic the superlube/mobilux might be incompatible

[vivid lantern]

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8Q248/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[somber shell]

That's just a generic lithium soap w mineral oil same as EP2

[vivid lantern]

and do you think it's not good?

[somber shell]

Best is PTFE/PFPE, second is Polyurea/PAO-ester

Steel mills and other high-temp environments use Polyurea

More critical stuff like corrugated mills or printing industry use more complicated mixes (due to ink and UV lighting contamination etc.) so usualy PFPE or PAG

[vivid lantern]

yeah but this is to lubricate mainly the plastic parts, I guess to avoid wear

the question is.... will this protect 🙂

[somber shell]

Protect ?

The reason I bring up temperature is that thickeners and oils thiin/degrade at higher temperatures.

[vivid lantern]

this one is thick as tooth paste

[somber shell]

A simple lithium soap does poorly at highertemps, its why every grease (even the bargian-bin ones) switches to a lithium complex which is slightly more expensive.

Toothpaste isn't very thick.

[vivid lantern]

I have to open the extruder to see how is doing after a few hundreds of hours

no dripping so far

[somber shell]

Thickness (NLGI) also has little to no relation with the lubericative ualities

It doesnt need to drip to be degrading

You will reach 'grease is useless't emperatures far before the grease reaches its dropping point for most

[vivid lantern]

I see

[somber shell]

Typically the grease starts to bleed a lot more oil than it should, getting dry faster etc.

[vivid lantern]

Using EP2 on the rails,

[somber shell]

Ep2 is a basic lithium soap and fairs poorly unner higher tmeperatures

[vivid lantern]

what are your thoughts on EP2 on the extruder?

[somber shell]

It's not even lithium complex iirc

[sage widget]

I mean EP2 is fine for the rails we run and most of the parts in the chamber will not go beyond 80C unless it's the parts right around the hotend

[somber shell]

I disagree with the concept that EP2 is fine

Rather, that most people do not know what good luberication looks like

Any grease is better than no grease

EP2 is betteer than Multemp SRL (What chinese stuff comes by default with)

But there are many greases better than EP2 🙂

[sage widget]

yeah but EP2 is fairly easy to get your hands on

[vivid lantern]

better yes but what I think is, I don't need the best grease if I have one that does the job

what FOG said

[somber shell]

Well if you look at the formulae you'll know it doesnt do any job 👍

Doesn't form a EHD lubericative film, and doesnt last under higher temps

You're practically running dry tbh

[sage widget]

it's better than nothing 🤷‍♂️

[somber shell]

Not arguing with that 😛

[vivid lantern]

so Mobilux EP2 on the rails is basically like running it dry?

[sage widget]

again, EP2 is super common and easy to source unlike other specialty greases and lubricants

[somber shell]

It's not much better though I am assuming 80C-ish

[vivid lantern]

need to source new grease

[sage widget]

especially if said greases and lubes aren't used in automotive space, here I can't find anything that's not used by cars

[vivid lantern]

nahhh my chamber is 60 max

[somber shell]

You're probably fine but as it happens I do sell greases 🤣

[somber shell]

Yea you need to contact manufacturers direct

THey do have it in stock but its on a per-distributer basis and u get hit with like $20 shipping then another $80-120 for a cartridge etc.

[vivid lantern]

Thanks for the grease lesson, learned something today...

[somber shell]

or some are only sold in 1 KG increments

I think Mobilux has a reasonably easy to buy Polyurea grease?

Intended for electric motors

Yea Mobil Polyrex EP 2

The Polyrex EM is too light

But yea both are still not 'ideal' so I sourced about 13-14 others of which I'm currently selling beta test kit of 9 of them

Other'n thatt feel free to spam me with 'Is this grease good' and I can let u know why/why not, I have an essay on luberication if anyone is interested in reading it but its technical and has to do with EHD film formation/etc.

[manic spruce]

Try Orca's "mouse ears only on corners" it works GREAT with many different filaments including ASA and ABS. I haven't tried it on Voron 2.4 yet(rebuilding X with MGN12/revo/G2SA/Beacon) but my K1 Max prints them perfectly so that I can peal them off line they were never attached to the print. Leaves a little whine line that I run my nail across and disappears. This combined with elephants foot compensation of 0.18mm and I have perfect first layers that show no layer lines while brim comes off like nothing.

[lapis smelt]

Yep prints alright but one thing need attention

[lapis smelt]

Make this face a little thicker

[ancient briar]

Whats happening?

Too thin?

[ancient briar]

Fusion 360 keeps crashing 😦

[ancient briar]

@lapis smelt @meager inlet Made it thicker, and moved the fan down/opened the hole a tad more, looks much different as I had to start over pretty much.

It should print better too, the overhang is much less steep

[lapis smelt]

Thanks mate i’ll print one now to test

[stray walrus]

I just Installed the G2E with the Ebb36 at the back. It looks like the whole setup is a few millimeters deeper than the same setup using the CW2. Which means it causes issues to home the Y axis. Even if I reduce the space between the EBB mount and the motor at the bear minimum, the back of my extruder catches on the chain. I have a pretty straightforward setup how did you guys manage to to keep your ebb36 align gantry. Is a side mount available, I can't find. ?

[hazy spade]

TMC 'extruder' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 00070090 s2vsa=1(ShortToSupply_A!) olb=1(OpenLoad_B!) cs_actual=7
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdown

i just had installed my galileo clockwork kit . and i encountered this error.

[hallow ingot]

I’d love to see this essay (and your thoughts on Vactra #2 as a linear rail lubricant in 3D print heated chamber going up to 100C)

[somber shell]

definitely dontuse vactra 2 lol

@hallow ingot here esssay

[ancient briar]

Was that better?

[restive sun]

anyone have a link to a model for a cnlinko m12 gland and the g2e/sb2209 that doesnt tap against the z chain?

[ancient briar]

Once I know its good, I want to design a grill of some kind for the blades.

[stoic prairie]

Just received my G2 kit and my ring gear is quite loose, anyone else run into this?

[subtle scroll]

hows the fit when you put the stepper in from the other side?

[stoic prairie]

It evenly distributes the gap betwen all three gears, so it rattles and there is slop in the rotation

[subtle scroll]

that's not expected, afaik 😦

suggest posting pics in #ldo_motors for feedback/engagement

[stoic prairie]

will do, ty!

[random sinew]

I have my Galileo 2 extruder installed and I am very impressed by it's consistancy. I am working on recalibrating everything however since I have TAP I cannot get Ellis' Pressure Advance calibration to work (never have with tap). So I am running a little blind. I am just currious if anyone can share what they have on their G2E pressure advance to at least give me a starting point?

[lost rover]

Having a couple of issues with my galileo 2 extruder. It's assembled but when rotating the toothed extruder gear there seems to be a point where the motor is sticking. If I loosen off the motor bolts a touch it seems to stop binding as much but a small amount of resistance is still felt. Not sure if there's something I'm missing but I appear to have followed the guide exactly and have disassembled and rebuilt twice. One of the bearings for the main D shift spindle seems to have a rough section as well. One is buttery smooth and the other seems to have a bit of resistance.

[subtle scroll]

.040 PA, .02 smooth time for ABS circa 20mm^3/sec through a 0.4CHT

[random sinew]

Thank you so much. That gives me a starting point.

[subtle scroll]

happy to help - good luck

[karmic sparrow]

Yet another shim question...I don't see it referenced in the manual for G2SA is it not used in the SA version?

[subtle scroll]

my understanding is that it is not

[lapis smelt]

Printed very nicely i’ll test fit tonight

[ancient briar]

Worried about airflow with a grill

may just be best to adaptive layer the top of the vent

[ancient briar]

The press fit for the fan good?

[lapis smelt]

yeah its pretty good the smallest bit tighter would have been better but it fits pretty nice

[ancient briar]

I'll leave it since you could use 1mm foam tape if you need tighter

Another fan might be too big

[marble lynx]

If I followed correctly this is for the SB2209/2240 with a 3010fan right? Which arm to use for the PG7 or 12 gland?

[ancient briar]

Its any board really, just 3010 fan with g2e

I am unsure what gland to use tho, Another user printed with a pg7 and it interfered slightly so I moved the fan down some, but i am unsure if he has printed the revised version or not.

@meager inlet have you printed the new version?

[marble lynx]

Would be interesting to know which pg7 holder you used @meager inlet

[ancient briar]

Thoughts?

grill might be too thin

[marble lynx]

STL? Asking for a friend 😄

[ancient briar]

@marble lynx

[meager inlet]

I’ll print it after I get my kids on the bus. The pg7 arm I’m using is the one that came out in the usermods folder on the official GitHub page

[mortal minnow]

I am considering replacing CW2 on my V2.4 (SB) with Galileo 2. However, I have CANBUS (EBB36), and I can't find many options on how to mount it with Galileo 2. With CW2 it is neatly tucked behind the extruder motor, nice and compact. For Galileo 2, best I found is this (https://www.printables.com/model/261263-voron-stealthburner-galileo-ebb36-side-mount), which doesn't look great at all in comparison. Does anyone know of a better solution to mount that EBB36 on SB with Galileo 2?

[meager inlet]

Should I switch to this one instead? https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/blob/main/user_mods/hartk/PG7_Umbilical/[a]_pg7_umbilical.stl

[meager inlet]

You'll probably one the motor mount version https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain

[mortal minnow]

Thank you, that should work!

[marble lynx]

I am still waiting for the SB2209 to arrive, currently running a EBB36 on the back of Galileo2 (modified mount, to work upside down). When the SB2209 arrive I will have the parts for installation ready, so I print it forward

[meager inlet]

I'm going to to just print this other mount and see if I can even use it. Unlike JosAr's, there's no pictures etc.

[marble lynx]

you mean the hartk version in the usermod files I guess

[meager inlet]

correct

because I found this but I can't tell what mount they are using. doesn't look like JosAr's https://www.printables.com/model/676648-galileo-2-3007-sb2209-sb2240-sb2040-can-bus-pcb-fa/comments

[marble lynx]

I used the files from JosAr in the github but replaced the holder with the STL to mount it upside down

[rancid pier]

private channel :(

[marble lynx]

oh sorry

But he will get the idea

[primal thistle]

A while ago I moved from CW2 to sherpa micro, the cheapest sherpa micro with quality parts you can build is about 56€, but galileo 2 can be had for 43€...
Cool, but any idea how long Galileo 2 is going to be around (I know difficult to estimate now). Will it eventually replace CW2, or is it likely that something else will take it's place? I'm developing a machine for a print farm and that's definitely a factor.

[meager inlet]

I am printing this mount now. The other one I posted above interferes with my z chain and I don't feel like doing the relocation mod. https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/blob/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain/STL/G2_CAN_mount_motor_PG7.stl

[meager inlet]

GE2 is still in open beta. I love mine and will be getting another one for my V0 or the standalone version. I don't think cw2 will be going away. The GE2 is a drop in replacement, although you need to print the files for it but it meshes up with the hot end fan for the stealthburner

[primal thistle]

Hmm, seems like it's something to come back to in a year or something like that. Thanks for the input.

[meager inlet]

If you're happy with your sherpa then there's no reason to change. I wasn't happy with cw2 so I went GE2

sorry, I call it GE2 or G2E interchangably. version 2 of Galileo extruder

[sage widget]

yeah the stock will most likely stay on CW2, this is just a nice sidegrade for those that have issues with CW2

[mortal minnow]

What issues did you have with cw2 that G2E fixed?

[meager inlet]

I wasn't getting consistant extrusion. Tried changing motors and still was having issues. Not saying it is a wide spread issue by any means but I wanted something different and have not had any issues since switching.

[sage widget]

for me it was the VFA issue and the grinding of the gears that was due to badly machined gears provided with the kit

[meager inlet]

I even used the official BME gears from an old printer and put them in. Still didn't help

[sage widget]

same here

I also tried a IDGA, still no dice

[meager inlet]

then to seal it off, I broke the latch and I printed one and found out it was updated and the new one didn't fit what I had already

didn't want to deal with printing all the new parts

my new V0.2r1 prints ABS amazing with the miniburner setup. problem is I'll be printing a lot of PLA on it and I need better cooling. If I'm going to change the setup I might as well go with G2E there too

[atomic haven]

What does changing the smooth time do? I know the stock is set to 0.04 but I've never changed it

[ancient briar]

@meager inlet I moved the fan down for you. Might not need a new umbilical

[meager inlet]

I'l print it now to see. If not, the PG7 mount needs the arm extended by 18mm

https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/blob/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain/STL/G2_CAN_mount_motor_PG7.stl

[sage widget]

it basically is the amount of smoothing it applies to the pressure advance extrusion moves, this chart shows what it does

[meager inlet]

I like this new mount but it needs to be longer to fit the door and stay out of the way of the board. It will still fit over the X railing AND not interfere with the z cable chain

I'll let you know how how v1.8 door fan works out

[atomic haven]

So if I already have a higher PA, lowering the Smooth time should help fix some bulging?

[ancient briar]

V2 has a grill

If you are interested

[meager inlet]

If all else fails then I may have to go that route.

[ancient briar]

It's the same just a grill

[meager inlet]

Still hits it. Fan fits in nice and snug though so I think it's good. Can you make the arm of this file 18mm longer? Then it won't interfere and won't effect the z chain either. https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/blob/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain/STL/G2_CAN_mount_motor_PG7.stl

[ancient briar]

What if the gland mount was just on the other side

And that printed in two pieces

[meager inlet]

let me look

I think it'd hit the extruder motor. I'm trying to modify in tinkercad but I suck at it

[ancient briar]

It shouldnt

[subtle scroll]

Don't recall with certainty, tbh. It is findable in klipper docs. Ah, Yamato got it

[ancient briar]

nvm, i see that gland has the connector IN it

[ancient briar]

can you install that without the gland itself, with or without my door so i can get a reference

I don't think we need a "gland", but something to support the plug on the board

the ebb cable is strain relieved

[meager inlet]

I have a PG7 gland on my setup

[ancient briar]

just dont connect the gland

[meager inlet]

I am not having luck with tinkercad. Guess I'll install fusion

[ancient briar]

I have both open, just need a reference

No G2e cad means I cant design around the extruder as easily

Looking at the pg7 mount, I dont even see how it would work without the door installed

[meager inlet]

Just need this one part extended by about 18mm

I tried to break it up and all that in tinkercad but it kept screwing up and making artifacts in the nut part for the gland

[ancient briar]

I am getting the same problem

Trying a few things

I can use fusion

Heres to hoping it doesnt artifact

@meager inlet

It loads in Orca fine

Um, sec

would need a 65mm bolt lol

[meager inlet]

ugh. Longest I have is 40mm.

[ancient briar]

im fixing it

[meager inlet]

I'll have to go to the hardware store and hope they have one lol

[ancient briar]

The original, the 40mm was long enough, yea?

[meager inlet]

I have a 50mm

Would need to make a recessed section further down into the part so the same bolt can be used while giving it the length

[ancient briar]

Its not letting me, ugh

[meager inlet]

Don't worry about it. I appreciate all the attempts though

[ancient briar]

got it

@meager inlet should be good

I'll make one from scratch soon

[meager inlet]

You're quick. I sent it to the printer so I'll let you know

[ancient briar]

I may wait for G2E Cad is released to make one from scratch

[ancient briar]

Did it work?

[meager inlet]

Had to head out. I’ll let you know when I get back

[ancient briar]

Np

[meager inlet]

Now it’s a bit too long. I’m sorry I must have measured it wrong but I’d say shave 5mm off and it’ll be perfect

[ancient briar]

I'll do what I can

[ancient briar]

@meager inlet

The source file is damaged so It keeps throwing odd errors even in fusion

[meager inlet]

Sorry my replacement V0 screen came in and I had to install. I'm sending to the printer now

[ancient briar]

I was debating removing my screen tbh

[meager inlet]

I'll probably add klipper screen later down the road like my 2.4

I need lights on my V0 more than anything

[ancient briar]

I have a standard screen, but also a knomi

[meager inlet]

I have the halo on my 2.4

[meager inlet]

I made another adjustment @ancient briar

[ancient briar]

Was still too long?

[meager inlet]

yeah and then where the canbus plugs into it was too tight so I made a slight cut. I'm going to print it now but I probably won't get to test until later tomorrow night

[tall trellis]

Are there any cable strain relief for use with btt sb2209?

[ancient briar]

Nothing that I liked, I used the chain mount and zip tied the cable to it lol

[tall trellis]

I thought about doing that but thinking it will get one by time i finish my build, ill try and print something myself but i cant use the programs to do it properly so seeing if ms 3d builder will be able to

[ancient briar]

@final shadow Would it be possible to release non extruder cad files, like the panel, and the chain mount?

[final shadow]

“Panel” being the door or?

[ancient briar]

Yea the door, sorry

[final shadow]

I can probably do that, but I’ll need a bit of time.

[ancient briar]

Appreciate it, and understand

[urban cypress]

How much tension on the G2E? Is it like G1 where you go all the way and then one rotation back?

Found it by scrolling a mile... Wish discord had searching specific threads.....

For the people searching:

Galileo 2 tension, G2E tension

#1160715888048218193 message

[ancient briar]

I tighten till the armature cant wiggle and turned half a turn further

without filament inserted

[inland fiber]

Has anyone been successful using G2E with LDO afterburner toolhead board?

[worn oar]

Up until now I've always changed filaments by hand. I'd like to change this to a filament change macro, but don't want to bring melted filament into the G2E. Anyone have a good filament change macro I can reference?

[dense island]

I don't know if they are 'good' but these are what I use when I use a macro. You'll probably have to adjust lengths (I think I find i need to do another retract on unload, so need to tweak that)

[gcode_macro LOAD_FILAMENT]
gcode:
    {% set speed = params.SPEED|default(300) %}
    {% set max_velocity = printer.configfile.settings['extruder'].max_extrude_only_velocity %}
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state
    G91
    G92 E0
    G1 E50 F{max_velocity} # fast-load
    G1 E25 F{speed} # purge
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state

[gcode_macro UNLOAD_FILAMENT]
gcode:
    {% set speed = params.SPEED|default(300) %}
    {% set max_velocity = printer.configfile.settings['extruder'].max_extrude_only_velocity %}
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
    G91
    G92 E0
    G1 E25 F{speed} # purge
    G1 E-50 F{max_velocity} # fast-unload
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state

[primal thistle]

Cool stuff. I do know that increasing smooth time can help on filaments with very high PA values where the extruder can't keep up.
But otherwise, what effect does it have on print quality? It looks like you would want as little smooth time as possible to stay closer to the desired curve?

[sage widget]

the issue with smooth time is the less you have the more aggressive the motor will work potentially stalling out due to the necessary torque

[primal thistle]

Agreed, I used to run higher smooth time on TPU because it has such high PA that my old extruder could not keep up.
But assuming that you are not hitting the limits of your extruder, lower smooth time would be better then for print quality?

[sage widget]

in theory yes

[random sinew]

I got my G2E working and my ABS and PETG are dialed in nicely. I then went to test TPU and I just can't get it to feed and get the infamous extruder clicking noises. My extruder is heated to 240C for filament loading, which I would expect to be high enough, but I can't even get it to feed enough to even get to the heated part of the nozzle. Any thoughts?

[atomic haven]

I haven't tried TPU with my G2s but I've heard that G2 isn't great for TPU because it only has a single toothed gear. You could try to increase the tension on it to get it to bite into it

[random sinew]

Thanks, I tried that. One fatal flaw of the G2E is not being able to open it up like you can a CW2 to see what is happening inside. I am yanking it apart and it looks like a tiny bit of PETG is still in the nozzle. I would have hoped it would have been able to push that clear, but maybe not. I am going to clean it all out and try fresh to see if it works. It would be a shame if I needed to do this every time I print TPU, but I guess it is better than not printing TPU at all. If it works.'

[bright trench]

i benchmarked 24mm/s^3 with rapido2 and G2E. which blew my mind

[bright trench]

did you cut your tpu very sharp? i never had problems with swapping to tpu

[atomic haven]

Yeah sounds about right. But was that with tpu? because thats what he was having issues with

[bright trench]

yeah i was talking about tpu

otherwise it wouldnt be noteworthy xD

btw, i should add i inceased the tention quite a lot compared to the 2 full turn described in the manual

(but that was for matt pla mainly, which tended to crumble)

[crystal mist]

I have the same question, did you find anything?

[meager inlet]

@ancient briar sorry, been swamped with work/life past few days. I ended up modifying the step file to create a PG7 mount that works with my setup. This one is long enough to just barely clear the door while also not interfering with the stock z chain. It has a angled section to allow the canbus plug to connect in a SB2040. I also customized the hole in the PG7 threads so I can fit a 4 PIN JST-SM through. My setup has a igus cable crimped to JST-SM to canbus connector. I'll take some photos and upload on printables when I can.

[wide nest]

Quick question that I couldn’t find the answer to with search. Does Galileo work with Tap? I have CNC tap on my trident and couldn’t see myself switching but I’m also fascinated with Galileo as a replacement for CW2. Thank you.

[meager inlet]

Yes it works with tap

[wide nest]

Thank you.

[crystal mist]

I made my own

[meager inlet]

@ancient briar

[ancient briar]

That was my plan

[ancient briar]

nice

[ancient briar]

Can I get the STL?

[meager inlet]

scroll up 😄

If it's ok with you, I'll post the door on printables and provide proper credit

[ancient briar]

I was going to, i have a version with a grill too i want to post

[crystal mist]

https://www.printables.com/model/686638-galileo-2-sb2209-strain-relief

[ancient briar]

Thanks!

Thats exactly what I planned to do, so no reason to do it again hahah!

[ancient briar]

does the print have a lip that sits over the top of the plug too?

[crystal mist]

no, I didn't go that far

let me upload a step file

done, feel free to add one

[ancient briar]

Thanks, I may add plug support too

[crystal mist]

I was thinking to add springsteel wire support, but I don't have one yet

[dire stone]

there is like gap in air between parts

[meager inlet]

It's from my crap abilities at Fusion 360. I printed the file fine

[dire stone]

got step so it could be fixed?

[meager inlet]

let me see if I can export it. I have the free edition so I know its limited

[dire stone]

just save as step file its available on free version

[meager inlet]

Can you send the fixed step file back and I'll post it on printables as well.

[dire stone]

@meager inlet send u pm with file

[meager inlet]

I posted it at https://www.printables.com/model/686644-galileo-2-extruder-pg7-mount/files

[ancient briar]

On 3rd revision resting a cable support, 2nd works, but making final adjustments.

[crystal mist]

Making first test print with g2e, and getting worst woodgrain i ever had

[ancient briar]

Make sure the stepper slid into the planets smooth, and that you lubed. Also, make sure you pressed the shaft into the stepper when tightening the hobb gear down

[crystal mist]

Yes, all of that checked

It rotated smooth by hand

[ancient briar]

Did you use the shim?

[crystal mist]

With the stepper motor

Used the shim

Metal shim

[ancient briar]

You may not have needed it

With it I found the gears hit the planet housing

[crystal mist]

Yeah, i noticed i have very little play in the gear travel, thanks

Will assemble without one

Can it be too much tension on the thumb screw?

I did 2 full revolutions after the spring touched both sides with no filament installed

[ancient briar]

i did like half a revolution, or so maybe less

[crystal mist]

Backed out 3 rotations now, doesnt seem to change anything

[atomic haven]

Make sure you aren't crushing your bearing with those 3 flat heads. Also I would loosen the two screws that are on the back bottom of the unit. They should be just tight

[crystal mist]

Aha, i had a gap between the surfaces so i tightened the hell out of it

But it was pivoting freely

[atomic haven]

I had to fiddle with mine a little because I needed the shim and I loosened the 3 flat heads.

[crystal mist]

There was a gap even without the main body in

I also noticed that it seems the parts are designed to be printed with the first layer being 0.25mm instead of standard 0.2

[ancient briar]

Are your prints not flat?

[crystal mist]

Or maybe it was just the cable chain

They are flat

[ancient briar]

Mine fit like a glove

[crystal mist]

The cone part seems to interfere, maybe i had some overextrusion..

Did you print all layers 0.2?

[ancient briar]

Yea was all .2

[crystal mist]

And heres my print with cw2

All the vertical lines are from printing at 20mm/s i guess

But no woodgrain

Maybe i didnt need to upgrade at all

[ancient briar]

CW2 is a fine extruder, G2 isn't an "upgrade" for most, rather another option.

[crystal mist]

I noticed some extrusion inconsistency

even with ridga gear

but actually I got G2 for my micron, but it doesn't fit

[ancient briar]

With a little work you can find what is causing your woodgrain and fix it.

[crystal mist]

yeah, I know 😄 I just had expectations high

that flat idler and large gear will make me mindblown right away

after watching this videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6JmCdovE0U

[crystal mist]

wouldn't it hit the flat screws without it?

[ancient briar]

I had more than enough clearance

[crystal mist]

hm, how do I know if I do? it rotates very smooth without the motor

[atomic haven]

You will see the scarring
#1160715888048218193 message

In that photo you can see where the screws were dragging on the metal. This was before I installed the shim

[ancient briar]

Technically, if the screws go in perfect, the shim isn't needed. There IS a lip on the shaft to ride on the bearing's inner trace.

I do wonder if an over extruded part would cause the recess for the screws to be smaller, meaning the screw would poke out more.

[atomic haven]

Yes that would be possible, but keeping the shim in wouldn't hurt anything

[ancient briar]

In mine, it did, it caused the planet gears to rub the housing and the housing to not sit flush against the printed back half.

[crystal mist]

wait, do you mean if I overtigtened them or if they are not sitting flush?

[ancient briar]

Either

Too tight can put force on the bearing, and too loose can cause the shim to not be enough

[crystal mist]

hm

[atomic haven]

They should not sit flush with the printed part, they should be just a little proud of the plastic. If you tighten them down all the way you can warp your bearing

[ancient briar]

Uneven force being a problem as it would set the bearing at an angle

[atomic haven]

I considered removing those screws since the bearing should be relatively constrained

Mine is working fine but I haven't touched it since

[ancient briar]

Mine is fine too

[atomic haven]

That is interesting. I had a little bit of play in mine. But do you have the newer injected molded parts?

[ancient briar]

Yea, mine are injection molded

[atomic haven]

mine are the original run

So i'm not sure if that makes a difference in clearances

i wouldnt' think it would

[ancient briar]

Not sure, I asked when I found out and several people said they too didn't need the shim.

I wonder if 2 filament switch could be fit

Will try when the Cad is released

[sage widget]

for ERCF?

[ancient briar]

That, for load/unload macros, or runout sensor too

It appears that there is enough room for 2

[crystal mist]

yeah, it's not rubbing the screws even without the shim

[ancient briar]

I do want to venture to mm eventually

[crystal mist]

planet gears are hitting the printer part without the shim though

maybe it will never be actually pulled that far back though

and it's not much

maybe i did have the motor installed wrong, because now I get a tiny bit of free play in the shaft rotation, before I didn't

[ancient briar]

the gears hit the printed part? they should be smashing the screws then

[rotund obsidian]

What is the recommended lube for g2e?

[crystal mist]

well, not hit, slightly touch

but with the hobb gear doesn't allow it to travel that far back anyway

but I have a question, is the hinged part supposed to rotate super easy, or is little bit of friction is okay?

I mean the accent part with the motor relative to the body

I have some friction regardless of the rear 2 bolts tension

I filed all the rough surfaces so they are smooth, but doesn't seem to make any difference

to describe the amount of friction, it doesn't rotate under it's own weight when tilting

basically what I'm saynig is that I don't feel like it's on bearings, it could be smoother with just a screw as a pivot

[ancient briar]

You may have it too tight

[crystal mist]

there's friction without the backplate at all

there's something wrong

just the pin itself rotates fine

but the accent part is interfering with something somewhere

[crystal mist]

I think I will just print everything again, did e-steps calibration for my micron, it was 1% too much

[meager inlet]

I uploaded the step file. I have to recreate the STL and post the update. I’ll get to it in the morning.

The step file has the fix

[sage widget]

superlube if you have it

if not EP2 will do

[rotund obsidian]

Thanks.

[ancient briar]

https://www.printables.com/model/687329-galileo-2-ebb-sb22092240-30mm-fan-mount-cable-cove

Uploadedededed

@crystal mist Added my revision as a remix of yours.

[ancient briar]

I was able to remix the g2 front to hold an after extruder switch, printing the 3rd test of that now, and I have also added a before extruder switch, not sure how it will fare tho

[crystal mist]

Reprinted everything, assembled without the shim, still get very heavy woodgrain

I found that the hubb gear doesn't have much travel back to forth, and it's slightly misaligned with the filament path

[crystal mist]

I think I found the issue, if I loosen the two halves that are holding the mainshaft - it rotates much smoother

if I tighten them fully - it's like something goes misaligned

these

I think my shaft is machined bad, because when I rotate it with the screws loose - I can feel the planet case move side to side as I rotate it

I bought the kit from lab4450, as by the link in the repo

[bright trench]

anyone else got problems with their cable chains?

they get stuck at the left side between the toolhead and xy-joint

[ancient briar]

Make sure the bearings are pushed into the planet gears all the way, and you can put the shaft on the stepper before you place the rear printed piece on the shaft. the issue you describe sounds like the stepper is off a tooth on one of the planet gears

[crystal mist]

yeah, I think the parts are faulty, I reassembled multiple times making sure the stepper is going in smooth, but it's the same result every time.. lab4450 will send me a replacement tomorrow

[meager inlet]

STL updated over at printables. Sorry had kid's class holiday party today.

[wide nest]

Now to wait for parts from fabreeko

[vapid plume]

Nice. I hacked around it by tweaking my first layer width

[vital light]

short sanity check:

with G2 my PA value increased quite a bit, from ~0.04 (CW2) to ~0.06(G2, LDO kit with extruded parts) for a PLA I used tons of in the past

is that realistic or a sign sth might be wrong? I am also so far not hugely impressed by the quality, its about the same as CW2 in terms of consistency (though I just now discovered the large increase in PA, after my first few prints, which might improve results now)

I checked the extruder at each step in the manual and it seems the movement was smooth. Though I need quite a bit more than the 2 screw turns of tension to have reliable extrusion (I would say ~5 turns).

otherwise exactly the same setup (2.4r2, dragon HF, same brozzl or so 0.4mm nozzle)

[formal trench]

that looks pretty good. are you able to share the step or stl file?

[ancient briar]

It’s on printables now

https://www.printables.com/@Afteraffekt_1581377

[formal trench]

nice ... printing one now!! -Thank you~!

I Just completed a remix if the Hartk PG7 support bracket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deKpNwVAGbk

[formal trench]

Just ran the print, however it seems to need 8.7mm taken off the hole block where the PG7 bracket bolts on as it is 8.7mm longer than the original.

[ancient briar]

Explain?

Mine is a remix of dgg's and ours both fit

And what PG7?

This isn't a gland mount

[formal trench]

ok. so how to you bolt on the Hartk PG7 bracket onto that?

[ancient briar]

You don't

[formal trench]

So I thought you could just remove the original part and put this in its place, however you cannot attache the PG7 bracked onto the end of it as it is 47.9mm long compared to the original part which is only 39.3mm long

ah .. DOH

[formal trench]

do you need a longer screw than the original then instead?

[ancient briar]

Nope

50mm

I use the one that came with my G2

[formal trench]

man ... this would have been the solution to my problem when I was putting it together..... wish I had of seen this a few days ago.... sould have saved me a whole lot of work.

[formal trench]

works perfect thanks !

[ancient briar]

Welcome!

dgg did the base of it

[formal trench]

Nice work! I just wish I had found this before modding the Hartk PG7 bracket. I would not have had to split my canbus cable in two otherwise.

[ancient briar]

I use an ID retractable clip to hold my cable free

[stray oracle]

Same. Id card stuff and zip ties to the câble chain holder.

Redneck engineering as It's finest.

[mortal minnow]

I just switched from CW2 to G2, and I am very happy with results I'm getting so far, but there is one thing bugging me - the latch-less system requires an enormous force of me to fight against the spring to be able to load or unload filament, or do stuff like cold pulls, etc. Perhaps I don't have the strongest hand in the world, but it's really tough to hold the extruder open for any more than a few seconds. Is it supposed to be like that? My spring knob is turned 2 full turns from loose position. I tried less tension ,but it makes no difference.

[atomic haven]

Has anyone noticed issues with pressure advance after switching to G2? I'm running a G2SA on my XOL toolhead and went from 0.043 with my sherpa mini to almost 0.06 with G2SA and still have bulging corners.

[sage widget]

yes, I'd suggest using the body of the SB as leverage when opening it, for cold pulls and such I'd just remove the knob

[sage widget]

some people here did report a increase in PA with G2

personally I'm still sitting under 0.05

[atomic haven]

I'm sitting at .055 and still have bulging on my parts. I haven't tried playing with smooth time yet though. Not really sure what it does even looking at the little graph

[sage widget]

it's makes it so that the extruder doesn't have to do high jerk movements potentially stalling out the stepper

[atomic haven]

could turning that down some help with my issue you think?

[sage widget]

if anything it'll probably make it worse

[carmine merlin]

I just assembed my G2E and I thought the same thing. There also seems to be quite a bit of play with the G2 module (the assembly the thumbscrew is in). I haven't used it yet so I don't know if that's an issue. Do others have that movement?

[sage widget]

play? in what sense? is it loose over the steel rod hinge?

[atomic haven]

hmm well the pattern test hasn't been working for me so maybe i'll try the tower method

[sage widget]

check that the filament is dry as well

that can also mess with your PA settings

[carmine merlin]

It just doesn't seem super secure. Pressing the thumbscrew moves the assembly a bit but when you let go it doesn't go back into place in a satisfying way. I can wiggle the tab and assembly a little without it compressing the thumbscrew spring. That is doing the 2 full turns from loose. I can tighten the spring more to remove wiggle but we're into the 6-7 turns which seems incorrect based on the instructions.

[atomic haven]

I've had this spool of filament in a S1 filament drier (55c) for like a week now with the same results

[sage widget]

now that is indeed not normal, mine with just 3 turns in is already snug

[carmine merlin]

Maybe it's just because I'm testing and tightening the screw without filament inserted. It's closer to 2-3 turns if I insert filament. The instructions say to adjust while extruding so maybe that's all.

[sage widget]

that would do it

I adjusted mine after loading some filament into it

also when you unload you can tell it's out of the extruder as the lever moves deeper into the body

[carmine merlin]

Thanks for the quick answers

[wide nest]

Installing tomorrow.

[ancient briar]

I do miss the latch tbh

[formal trench]

me to

[random vale]

Had the same exact feeling, however it lasts only a few days. G2 is really designed to work without a latch, its really not needed

[ancient briar]

Have problems with your hands, and come back to say that again, holding the breach open to load filament is painful

My wife cant even do it, and feeding it by force through a bowden tube is nigh impossible

[clear trench]

I always load filament in both my printers by just tensioning it against the gears and hitting the load button

[fluid scaffold]

getting ready to print my STLs for G2 on a trident build.

What is the differences between all the 3 hold cable chain files? How do I know which one I will need?

[copper estuary]

I am having terrible layer stacking issues on both G2SA units I have built (G2SA and Wristwatch G2SA) I got 3 of the early kits...been real torture trying to fix it.

[hazy spade]

hey guys, i had just installed my Galileo Clockwork kit to my afterburner v2.4
before this i have a HF stock extruder. I read that its max accel was 600/accel per second squared only. previous from stock can max 7000/accel.
whats the diffence? what upgrade did i make? better grip with slower speed?

bit stock for not finding much source of the galileo clockwork.

[mortal minnow]

Those using Galileo 2 and printing PLA, what flow rates do you achieve? Back when I was using CW2, I tried different hotends - E3D, Dragon HF, Rapido HF, eventually settled on Revo, but could never get past 10-12mm^3/s before it would start underextruding and tripping filament motion sensor. But with G2, I was able to crank it up right to 24mm^3/s without any underextrusion, clogs or other issues, which is more than twice of what I could do with CW2. Can extruder really make such a difference?

[clear trench]

I just ordered one of the kits to try it out, and printed out the g2e parts to get started. I was surprised though that the cable_chain_* parts print standing on end, when it seems like based on the stresses pulling the chain around they should be designed to print on the side.

[modest topaz]

In my search for a PG7 mount for the EBB SB2209 with G2E I came across this and Afteraffekt's mounts. I am confused how the mount is designed to have one screw on the fixed body of the G2E while the other on the part that swivels, the motor? It is quite easy to mount 2 standoffs on the 2 motor screws and attach a PG7 thread on a "platform" there. But the whole assembly and strain of the cable would be on the swinging motor assembly. That would defeat the consistency of load on the spring, since the moving cable would present varying loads on the base of the gland. So I would prefer to mount the PG7 on a fixed part of the G2E.

[meager inlet]

The one I have uploaded mounts fixed to the G2E and then the bottom goes to the motor. It's just designed so the fan door can open and close without hitting it.

If you don't use a fan, you can use the stock that is on github.

[ancient briar]

This is a reason I dont use PG7, and why mine doesn't use that mount.

[modest topaz]

Should I try this or the back is too rearwards to be grazing the Z chain? Still building - so any help / suggestions welcome. Thanks @ancient briar and @ Airborne Trooper

[solid warren]

Anyone know of a EBB36 mount for G2E? Only thing I could find was one for the Stand Alone Flavor

[atomic haven]

I used teh kayosmaker orbiter 2 mount and it worked perfectly

https://github.com/KayosMaker/CANboard_Mounts/blob/main/STLs/Mellow_SHT36_BTT_EBB36_1.1_1.2_Mounts/Mellow_SHT36_and_BTT_EBB36_1.1_1.2_mounts_with_strain_relief/STH-36_and_BTT_EBB36_1.1_1.2_orbiter_2.0_mounting_plate_strain_relief.stl

[vivid lantern]

question, I have 2 G2s and I've found that after installing the second one (with same everything at the toolhead) the EM is a bit off (under extruding), on my first G2 the e-steps were spot on with the values on the manual, I have the feeling the e-steps on my second G2 needs some adjustments, after the e-steps calibration I can see maybe 1mm difference but it is also on the acceptable range, so not sure if I want to modify the value given on the manual. Do you need to adjust it or should I compensate with EM values? Why I'm asking, I want to simplify my slicer profile and have one single EM for both printer. Should I go ahead and adjust slightly e-steps until I got the same results with same EM on both printers?

[dense island]

so I was off by 1% on my first g2e build. I recently had to rebuild it (reprinted plastic parts) and the second go around it was spot on the recommended rotation distance. I might suggest you take it apart, rebuild and make sure everything is lined up correctly before adjusting rotation distance.

[vivid lantern]

I did, that already, but maybe need to do it again

good to know that I should not be changing the esteps and just checking something else, I'm sure it might be assembly issue

[random jackal]

Before I (badly) reinvent the wheel, does anyone know of a pg7 mount that works with the BTT SB2240's included canbus cable with a Galileo 2? The cable has a really large connector that won't flex into the female connector on the sb2240. I need something that will move the cable about 15mm closer to the sb2240's canbus receptacle.
The mount pictured is from this collection: https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/user_mods/JosAr/G2_Umbilical_for_z_chain

[mortal minnow]

What are the essential differences between Galileo V2 and Orbiter V2? I understand that they are both great extruders, but I can't seem to find a direct comparison with pros/cons of each.

[random jackal]

I'll leave my above question there, just in case. But I finally had a chance to read through the thread more thoroughly.
Thank you, @ancient briar, for your zip-tie mount. I think that will be enough to get me up and running at least while the Galileo2's third party mods get established.

As an extra question: How does the G2 handle flexibles like Ninjaflex? It would be a nice bonus if G2 handles these well.

[ancient briar]

I do not see any way to have a PG mount at the connector's plug, it will have to be away somewhere else.

[mental meteor]

cw2 left, g2 right, literally installed, updated config, printed this, Im amazed

[clear trench]

The Orbiter has 2 extruder gears, while Galileo 2 has a single large one and a smooth idler bearing. The single large gear is meant to reduce printing artifacts by removing gears from the system.

The Orbiter 2 also has a very constrained filament path with a custom machined metal exit guide. So overall the Orbiter is probably better for TPU and may be stronger but with more artifacts.

[mortal minnow]

Understood, thank you. I actually switched from CW2 to G2 and noticed a ridiculous improvement in extrusion force (with G2 I am able to push PLA at 30mm^3/s at 220°C with Revo nozzle, while CW2 couldn't even do half of that before stripping filament), and now I was wondering if Orbiter is just as powerful.

[clear trench]

I believe Orbiter won or nearly won some unscientific extruder strength contest so yeah it most likely is.

[mortal minnow]

yeah I was just wondering why is it more popular over G2. I will be switching to XOL toolhead soon, and was wondering if I should transfer my G2 or switch to Orbiter. I suppose G2 already has way more than enough extrusion force for my needs, so I'll probably stay with it if you say it has a better chance at less artifacts.

[clear trench]

The Orbiter has been out much longer and is much more available. The typical unit comes assembled from the factory with high quality manufactured parts. It's also much more expensive.

G2 is still in beta and the kits were out of stock for months. It'll take a while to see how popular it is

[mortal minnow]

Alright, thanks for this info, I will consider it

[modest topaz]

The cable connector that comes with the BTT EBB is 3 meters and has that hefty connector. So I sourced The XT30 (2+2)-F and will cut the 3 meter and crimp its ends. Then I intend to route it to suit my design. Also I hope to use corrugated conduit for the cable which in its position as designed behind the MGN block should serve to offset some of the weight of Stealthburner aiding balance resulting in better kinematic performance perhaps?

[cloud fern]

I had a hell of a time crimping the +2 on those connectors. 24awg lineeo ptfe wire. ended up using 30awg / 18awg lineeo wire

[modest topaz]

Happy New Year Friends.
@cloud fern Crimping can be a very unrewarding exercise, especially if one does not have the right tools. I know people who call Engineer crap, so I would not expect much. But they do work most of the time. The Chinese ones are a hit or miss, (mostly miss) ask me how I know.

[cloud fern]

It's just the size of the wire. The +2 pins are meant for smaller wire. I use engineer crimps

PAD-11

[subtle scroll]

Haven't used that tool, but my engineer Pa09 and PA24 were my best crimpers for jst and microfit before I spent silly money on branded tools

[modest topaz]

The same one I use beside PA-24 I had to buy for the Dupont crimps. For wire size out of spec one has to get creative. You finally used 30 AWG for data and 18 AWG for power, is it?

[cloud fern]

What do you use for stripping?

[cloud fern]

Yeah, 18awgx2 + 30awgx2

one of the best purchases I have ever made lol

[subtle scroll]

Knipex autostripper, forget model #

Similar jaws to those

[cloud fern]

I tried those. They struggled with ptfe for me. Plus they have a large minimum length

these jaws are bought separate

[subtle scroll]

Hm. Mine do ptfe fine just not fiberglass heater insulation, and jaw stop goes down to 2mm for jst-xh, mfit3.

[silk orchid]

Not sure this is not discussed already (discord search sux, tbh) but anybody tried to print TPU with G2?

Im thinking to add G2 for v0 as direct drive, over the top of sb mini (modded). I have it on Trident already and Im very satisfied after some tuning / dialing in.

Just thinking if application for broader set of filaments, including soft is possible with G2.

[primal thistle]

You'll want to make sure that the filament coming out is actually molten at those speeds.

[primal thistle]

I wonder what a G3 might look like. It's a bit unfortunate that G2 has so many custom parts atm (not that they don't make sense), maybe in the future a version might be possible that doesn't need a longer motor shaft, or less custom parts.
Or maybe the gearbox dimensions just become a new standard like the bondtech drive gears which are now produced by a large number of manufacturers, and a bunch of open source extruders start using it. Like a Sherpa Galileo mini :p

[clear trench]

When I look at the Orbiter 2 the thing I really see missing in printed extruders is the screw-in metal filament exit guide (hi TPU!). So uh... Actually more custom parts would be cool 🤣

[primal thistle]

I don't think that's all that necessary for TPU, with the printed throat already getting quite close to the wheels (I'm guessing). Maybe more for carbon filled filaments and the like to avoid wear.

[grizzled talon]

does the door that is in the extruder STL's fit the SB2204 Canbus PCB or does it need a modified one?

[olive needle]

Is the g2e kit compatible with the Ldo (modified hartk) tool head pcb?

[grizzled talon]

To answer my own question, it does fit

[devout patio]

Could somebody please tell me how long g2sa is? Filament path to back of the stepper motor. I would look it up in cad, but that hasn't been released yet and I'd like to know if it can fit my toolhead before buying parts. Also has anybody a comparison to a vzbot cnc extruder with the helical gears?

[weary adder]

Just installed mine, updated my config file and ran a few test prints. Initial thoughts:

1. Slightly disappointed at the difficulty of loading / unloading filament. I suppose I'm too used to the latch. I couldn't get filament to load/unload without relying upon macros and driving the filament via the steppers. Using the lever and trying to force filament manually didn't really get anywhere, no matter how hard I compressed the lever. Not sure if that is by design or if I need to rebuild.
2. Performance seemed okay at first, possibly a little over extruding. Printed off a few flow calibration prints with PLA and ran into frequent clogs. (~20mm3/s) I may lower the print speed and try again later.

Any suggestions?

[dire stone]

Get better hotend

[weary adder]

My hotend I'm running now is the TZ V2, which I've tested up to 33mm3/s just fine. I'm skeptical that could be the issue. I may swap it out with something in my dust-bin if I have time.

[dire stone]

Maybe filament is the problem

[grizzled talon]

Welp, she aint pretty, but she will work

@random jackal I will give this a test print, but should allow the cable to go directly down into the connector for the SB2209 and 2240's if your interested

[weary adder]

Could be. Using the last bit of a spool of some cheap-o PLA I'm trying to get rid of. Figured it'd be good to blow through on test prints. Probably not the best strategy.

[dire stone]

Cnat recall but someone said that PLA bottle necks at some point and better use ABS as it can flow faster at higher temps or smth like that

[tall trellis]

i noticed that when i built mine, since ive not finished building my trident i decided to go with XOL toolhead, that is a breeze to load filament into, compared to stealthburner iteration

[random jackal]

Yes, absolutely. I'm interested! Thank you for your kind work.
I've been doing some pretty major surgery to my 2.4 so some things are working and a lot still isn't. Finally got the CANBUS setup extruding but still no tapping on the z. Previous experience tells me I'm between two hours and two weeks away from being able to print again. 😂

[grizzled talon]

sSent it to your DM's for now, the door is a tight fit that I will fix in the AM

other than that it all ligns up and is stable, I printed itin this orientation , no supports

[grizzled talon]

Actually will upload it if anyone else needs it until

For g2e

[weary adder]

Yup, that was the issue. Printed in white ABS. (bronze PLA from previous extruder) Note to self. Don't use junk filament when tuning in new components. No settings changed, and the Orca cube came out nearly flawless even when maxed out on my print speed. Also, my PLA slicer profile might be junk too.

[dire stone]

No it’s just PLA bad in general

[devout patio]

Its by design. The spring is pretty strong. Id suggest to getting used to using macros or a screen for loading. You could install physical switches (gcode buttons) that send the load and unload commands respectively. Possible spot would be the front skirt, at the rear bowden clip or even at the toolhead if you have canbus. Although for switches on the rear id recommend using a ptfe fitting on the toolhead so you can push the filament in without popping the bowden out of the extruder. Some extruders don't even have a release lever, the vzbot cnc extruder for example dont have one and the sherpas also have versions without something to pull onto, although they also have lever with a portion for your finger, but it feels like you are close to breaking the lever when pulling, especially on the SLS or mjf version as the used pa12 powder has often worse stiffness than abs out of a fdm printer

[signal bay]

is it possible to build a galileo 2 from Orbiter 2.0 components, or should i order a Galileo 2 kit ?

[devout patio]

Not possible. The galileo 2 has nothing in common with the orbiter 2. You can build a galileo 1 from a orbiter 1.5, a orbiter 2 has shorter feed gears that wont work in a galileo. Pretty much every part besides bearings and screws is new. So you have to buy a kit or stick with your orbiter

[signal bay]

is there an assembled galileo 2 cad/step file available anywhere ? i am tryint to build a custom x5sa pro stealthburner baseplate but i only found galileo 1 model for now (made available on thingiverse)

[devout patio]

No cad yet. The g2 standalone uses orbiter 2 bolt pattern. Otherwise id have a look at the stl files for reference, although those are probably scaled up for abs shrinkage, so round down to the nearest sensefull number (5,07986 to 5,05 or even 5,00 as example)

[weary adder]

Thanks for the info. I might just need to give it some time to get used to the new setup and dial in my macros a bit more.

[grizzled talon]

Welp untill the official cad is out or someone makes something better, here is a mount for the Galileo2 umbilical that goes directly into the SB2209 or SB2240 Canbus boards with supplied cable.

uses the single threaded insert at the back and the supplied (with kits ) 50mm M3

and will let you pass the cable through due to the slot

[slate aurora]

Where does the shim go in the batch 2 MJF kits?

[grizzled talon]

for the G2S or G2E?

[slate aurora]

WWG2

[grizzled talon]

So not seen the WW version before however it looks like its based on the G2S which does not use the shim IIRC

[grizzled talon]

Yea just read the WW manual, its the same as G2S so no Shim for you 😄

[slate aurora]

Okay sweet, I just wanted to make sure because I read on here they added a shim for the MJF ones to help

Thank you!!

The extruder definitely feels super strong compared to cw2 to try and move my hand. Couldn’t manually feed the filament and the tensioner is suuuuper tight

[grizzled talon]

Absolutely

and just to clarify, on G2E, there was either some worry or some people had experienced rubbing here against the screws

so the shim was introduced, not an issue with WW or G2S 😄

[slate aurora]

Ohhh that makes perfect sense. Thanks!!!

[wide nest]

Anyone else have to crank the run current to get the Galileo to not stall? It moves smoothly by hand but I’m ad 0.75 right now to get anywhere near the speeds I was getting with CW2.

[grizzled talon]

sounds like something has gone wrong with your assmbly, I run mine at 0.6 and it could prob rip a finger off lol

did you check the fit when you installed the planetary gears, and ran them in a bit with a drill?

[wide nest]

Taken it apart a couple times. Ran it and I can turn it with my fingers just fine. Tried with spacer and without. Same. Needs more juice.

[grizzled talon]

I would check your motor wiring, make sure everything is snug and secure, a loose/damaged stepper cable could also cause that, or even potentially incorrectly wired stepper can do that too

[wide nest]

Tested wiring. If the wires aren’t correct it’ll just stutter. Won’t turn at all.

[grizzled talon]

printed parts issue maybe? or Stealthchop configuration off? those are my last two idea's with my friday brain lol

[wide nest]

Stealthchop disabled. Could be parts but no issue with CW2 parts or anything else on the printer.

[subtle scroll]

Think someone else found soft tpu is easier with cw2 or minisherpa?

[subtle scroll]

Completely different

[subtle scroll]

Did you feel any drag when dropping the stepper in? If so, remove stepper, spin the extruder a little and try dropping back in.

[wide nest]

When I initially built it it would turn about 170 degrees and just stop. I eventually got it together and it spun pretty freely with the motor minus the force needed to overcome the gear ratio.

[subtle scroll]

That doesn't sound at all correct/expected

The 170 sounds like something is not seated/aligned correctly in assembly

[wide nest]

That’s why I took it apart and redid it until it was smooth.

Didn’t run it till I could move it freely.

[rotund obsidian]

Is there supposed to be a gap there or I need to tighten it more?

[desert summit]

This is mine doesn't have a gap, standalone for a V0.

When you insert the motor there shouldn't be any friction between the gears but then there is when you get the housing to snap into place.

[cloud fern]

this has been a tight fit for some. the steel ring should seat all the way in. For me it was easier to put that plate on first before doing anything. you can spin it on.

[cloud fern]

I print a lot of tpu .. I was hoping the G2SE would do better than CW2 😭

[vivid lantern]

My wwg2 is a champ with tpu

[sleek olive]

which hardness?

[vivid lantern]

95a

[sleek olive]

ofcourse, but 80a is quite difficult. cw2 is better for softer tpu

[cloud fern]

i print 95a and 98a

good to know

[vivid lantern]

I haven't tried 98a I think, I have a xoxo (not even sure that's the name) and it is really soft, and prints good also

[forest lintel]

I am using the SB2209. Is there a proper PG7 Umbilical mount for this board that fits ?

[weary adder]

One of the factors that pushed me to pull the trigger on the Galileo2 was because my CW2+SB was having major issues with TPU, and after many frustrating days of troubleshooting, I finally gave up and stopped printing TPU. Last night I ran a test print with the same TPU on my Galileo2, and it ran flawlessly on the first go. I'll be trying a bigger print in the near future.

[slate aurora]

Fancy

[cloud fern]

I print this cheap 98a you from Amazon. Prints really nice for $20 per kg. I also print filamentum 98a which prints amazing but is $$$

[cloud fern]

Maybe, I had these laying around for my drone motors lol. They fit a bit more snug than the ones that came with the kit.

No idea if ceramic bearings are good for an extruder but we will find out 😅

[slate aurora]

I’m excited to try out WW

they probably are overkill lol

Unless you’re zooming

[cloud fern]

I'm sure you are right

[slate aurora]

Which idk if that would even happen 🤣

[atomic haven]

Where did you get ceramic bearings for your WWG2?

West?

[cloud fern]

Tolerances are slightly better according to my miutoyo calipers. But only like 0.01

[slate aurora]

@atomic haven hey btw WW extruder mount updated to have the same features as the mainline XOL mounts

[cloud fern]

I'm in the US. I bought a bunch from aliexpress a while back.

[atomic haven]

Yeah I saw that last night actually. I'm debating sticking with G2SA because it seems to be a shorter extruder

[slate aurora]

I’m sad I just started the rebuild on my 2.4 and printed the old one. Now I gotta remake it

[atomic haven]

Yeah by west I mean west3D which are in the US. But that makes sense

[slate aurora]

Because the bolt hole pattern on previous version didn’t line up for rapido

Took some carving to make it fit

[cloud fern]

Oh yeah, no they are probably the same as the berserker bearings but not from w3d

[atomic haven]

I know the pain. I printed a fresh toolhead and once I got it assembed, Tas released a revision update like 2 days later lol

[slate aurora]

Beserker bearings are now with a green shield instead of orange now I think

[sage widget]

if they're from ali then they probably don't have the same tolerances as the west ones

[cloud fern]

I think they were like $2.50 each shipped or something like that.

[slate aurora]

But ABEC 9 should be nice to use

[atomic haven]

I'm not sure if west sells ceramic bearings in the right sizes for G2

[cloud fern]

Yes they do. They are from rain and dew

[sage widget]

if it's a trusted source like triangle labs then could be

[cloud fern]

Rain and dew is legit

[sage widget]

the price at least is similar 😛

got burned on bad ali stuff one too many times

[cloud fern]

Yeah, unfortunately lol

[cloud fern]

Yeah, I have bought so much shit now I've gotten a good idea of which store fronts to stick with. I would say most bearings in the voron community websites are from them or whoever makes them for rain and dew

I bet the ones in the g2 kit are r&d

[cloud fern]

how long will shipping take for the nozzle?

[sage widget]

wednesday is here

[cloud fern]

that is not bad at all

took me 2 months to ship something to germany using USPS

never again

[jaunty umbra]

mmm, that LDO stealthburner drop in kit is looking mighty tempting 😅

[jaunty umbra]

temptation: caved

how tight should the idler bearing cover fit in front body? should it be able to freely move?

[daring cobalt]

I just upgraded my extruder to Galileo 2 (as well as going canbus / SB2240 / CNC TAP). When calibrating the extruder I only get ~82mm of extrusion/movement when commanding it to move 100mm (4 x 25mm moves). My [extruder] config has:

rotation_distance: 47.088
gear_ratio: 9:1```
Note I also had to invert the dir_pin from the default SB2209/2240 config, so maybe I messed up the stepper wiring somehow when shortening the wires?

[devout patio]

Any idea when CAD is available? Working with stls (luckily not scaled) isn't exactly what you call pleasant

[devout patio]

I know about that, thought maybe someone knows more than me. So it will take a good while. Anyway, stl are good enough for measurements

[daring cobalt]

Problem solved. It turns out I loaded ASA filament by mistake instead of the PLA I meant to grab. 225 isn’t quite hot enough to consistently melt/extrude ASA.

[quiet cobalt]

If you're still around, do you happen to know anything about slickolium and if it's suitable? It's commonly used for lubricating the sliding components in mountain bike suspension... and I have heaps of it. 😄

It's apparently NLGI 1.5

[somber shell]

No, jut no 🤣

[quiet cobalt]

Oh? 😮 I thought it would be pretty good

[somber shell]

No xd

````•Anhydrous calcium grease```

No

[quiet cobalt]

Righto then 😛

[jaunty fern]

Does anybody know why this is happening with my Galileo 2 extruder? When I was using the CW2, I never experienced anything similar to this. Could it be a defective kit? All my friends had good results with their kits.
I’ve rebuilt this extruder 3 times now with brand new printed parts, but I always end up getting the same exact issue…

[quiet cobalt]

Well, just finished mine too. Same complaint about the filament release arm being way too hard to pull open. I feel like an easy fix would be to just make the spring tension knob longer?

[silver quest]

Are those errors at the seams? If so test your retraction distance/speed with G2 and see if it needs to be updated.

I'm having an issue with my G2E where it is grinding and skipping, but only with faster extrusions, and only with the hot end in place. It works just fine printing at slower flow and the hot end is not jammed. The grinding starts at around 10mm/s of extrusion so not overwhelming the hot end, and didn't have this issue with the CW2, only started once I upgraded. Any ideas for what I should check?

[subtle scroll]

Looks like wet filament and possible slicer issues

[subtle scroll]

Longer would interfere with Z belt at 0,0 and have to cranked down to similar tension to pinch the filament properly

[subtle scroll]

10mm/sec from mainsail ui is 24mm^3/sec extrusion, which is more than many hotends will flow

If it is actually grinding the filament and not losing steps, temp/flow and screw tension may both need adjustment

[quiet cobalt]

Not sure about the z belt issue (trident), but longer with a strong spring would work. I don't think the problem is that the tension is too strong, but that the spring is actually running out of travel

[cunning pewter]

Hey everyone. Is there a recommended grease for the G2 gearbox? I haven't seen one with a little searching and the manual just says "grease"

[jaunty umbra]

I just used mobilux that was used for the rest of my voron

[somber shell]

Gearboxes want as thick as possible and if they are very high speed NLGI 1 or 1.5

Like worm gears want absolutely insane viscosities lol

Only worry is plastic compatibility otherwise anything can work

PFPE will work for sure. Polyurea synthetics with PAO/Ester might, if Mobilux works (mineral) then it's likely PAO/Ester would but I cannot guarantee

I think all the POM/Aetal/Delrin stuff is pretty immune to any lubricant thouhg

[subtle scroll]

A number of us with mjf parts have used the superlube that was spec for cw2 needle bearings

[cunning pewter]

Thank you very much! I have a wide variety thanks to you. It was just between them or a red grease I have for high speed gearboxes

[somber shell]

I dont think u will have issue with speed though

so any NLGI1,2,whatever grease would work

reason to go nlgi1 is to reduce viscous friction which may cause an enclosed gearbox to overheat
If u were pushing like 5000RPM or something lol

[lusty summit]

How fast would someone need to print to achieve that?

[somber shell]

too fast

[devout patio]

The injection molded gears and ring gears are POM, correct?

[quiet cobalt]

My math could be wrong, but a feed rate of 435.9mm/s to get the motor spinning at 5000rpm, or 3923.3mm/s to get the gearbox spinning that fast

Your TMC driver should let the magic smoke out first 🙂

[jaunty umbra]

on the subject of gears, the ones in my LDO kit all looked like they were injection molded (had the usual extractor marks on them) (and no cool MJF surface finish)

[sage widget]

the MJF ones were only 1st and 2nd batch

the actual production version is the injection molded ones

[jaunty umbra]

aha, neat, ty!

[sage widget]

personally I'm waiting for the injection molded to be provided separately to swap my MJF ones

here's a G2E that had a bit over 250 hours of printing on it

[quiet cobalt]

The injection molded ones have a teeny bit of play to them. There was no need to do the run-in from the manual

[gloomy violet]

I have upgraded to g2e last month, now i wanted to print tpu, but when i started it , it is under extrudering first few lines and then they get clogged. Any body can help me here?

[hazy spade]

run_current: 0.250
hold_current: 0.200

what current you use in galileo clockwork ..these are mine atm.

[vivid lantern]

Check the pins

[reef thistle]

Has anyone tested the maximum feedrate possible for TPU (I use 40D/85A stuff) on G2E? I need to print a big part ASAP and trying to skip the tuning 🙂

[primal thistle]

That's really going to depend on the hotend and nozzle size. Different hotends will have different backpressures, which determine how much force the G2E needs to use to push the filament.

[reef thistle]

yeah my setup where I'm at now isn't optimal, I expect the dragon uhf to be a PIA

[dapper ice]

Please could you add a couple of holes for the steel wire?

[subtle scroll]

That reads like "I'm setting myself up for heartburn, anyone want to join me?"

85A feels like something you are going to need to tune for yourself if you expect success on a large print

[grizzled talon]

Will do once I get home, I will also upload the f365 file at the same time

[grizzled talon]

this look good?

[rotund obsidian]

What size steel wire are you using?

[devout patio]

I could tell you my settings for a lgx (lite), maybe do a small test print.

1,5mm retracts at 30/25mm/s retract/unretract, 10mm3/s flow for no slip (essentially i print every feature except bridges at 100mm/s) through a dragon uhf without MZE (using it on a v0, so MZE would be too long). PA about 0,4 to 0,5 at 240c. Not sure how this translates to a g2e, there is quite a lot of filament path in abs parts and the single feed gear is what causes moste concerns. As said, you can use this as a baseline, but a test is highly recommended.

[quiet cobalt]

Is the drive gear in the kit hardened steel? I.e. will it hold up to abrasive filaments?

[shrewd thistle]

Abrasive fillaments only kill nozzles when extending unless you maken the gears super hard into the fillament you will be fine i think

I think CNC kitchen explained it in an older video

[lethal drum]

It is, plus nitride (or some such) coating.

[lusty summit]

Ii would think it depends on if it's in the middle like carbon fiber or glass filled while ones with particles like glow in the dark and metallic filaments

[gloomy violet]

I am using triangle lab rapido hf or bambu clone hotend both with 0.8 nozzle. But the thing is filament gets crushed between the gear and bearing on g2e

[timber folio]

I just finished my trident, cw2calibrated e steps and wanted to print the voron cube. This is what I get. When extruding over mainsail interface everything works fine, no clicking noise or extruder skipping, but starting any print ends like this. Using ebb sb2209(rp2040) it gets around 70 degrees. Can that be the issue? I also first installed g2e but got the same result, so I switched over to cw2 but the problem persists. Thx.

[vivid lantern]

what filament? Temperature? Hotend?

[timber folio]

ABS, 250 degrees, dragon HF with cht nozzle. Also I’m using Ellis slicer no input shaper 24mm slicer profile. My first thought was maybe I assembled g2e wrong but it happens on cw2 too.

[vivid lantern]

You might be printing it too fast, did you tune EM? I recommend you do that then do a flow test. It seems you are under extruding

If you have orca slicer you can perform the filament tuning there

[glad jungle]

Pretty sure you have the wrong rotation distance set for you Z leads screws. Test a z move, say 100mm, then measure it. I suspect it'll be 50mm.

[plush thistle]

I had the problem once after switching to a cht, without cht it was gone

[devout patio]

Also not too fond of cht nozzles, at least the ones i tried yet. I was using the bondtech bimetallic one, but personally i was expecting a bit higher increase than 5 to 7mm3/s on a dragon hf. I think thats because the insert is steel and cant transfer enough heat into the middle

[plush thistle]

yes… since I use a Bambu CHT ali clone 33mm^3 are no problem anymore and they are heating extremely fast

dont want to switch back to dragon hf

[devout patio]

I switched from dragon hf to dragon uhf minus MZE, so i have the little bit wider heatbreak for mmu printing and the narrower block, so my part cooling doesn't get halfway blocked by the hotend. I was using it on a mini sb with 4010s, so much bigger ducts. Got it down to 6s layer time for most pla just by swapping hotend, previously 7 to 8 seconds and i could feel the warmer air before the swap. Other than that the dragon hf is a fine hotend, just misunderstood imo. Its not susceptible to heat creep, most just use ducting for the sf and too big fans, 30mm ones do work better in my experience.

Im currently designing a toolchanger based on a trident frame, i plan in using bambu hotends there for the size and price. The biggest challenge atm is the docking mechanism, i plan on using magnets (100c capable) and a kinematic coupling, i just need to get the coupling smaller/more compact. Rest is autopilot from a mechanical point of view, including making a new toolhead. Wont use a stealthburner, its too big.

[timber folio]

That's it. My rotation distance was set to 8 instead of 4, no idea how I overlooked it. Thank you so much, I changed nozzles, disassembled extruders before looking at my cfg file.

[amber surge]

Wondering if I'm missing something. Since the g2sa doesn't have a 'lever' to release the filament path in the way the CW2 does, how does one deal with the screw when you do need to open up the path? if you unscrew the tension bolt, two things happen:

1. you change the previously tuned tension you have set on the extruder
2. the screw simply falls out of the lever hole.

unless there's something I'm missing?

Side semi-related question - are there any notes somewhere on how to set appropriate tension? I haven't found any so far....

[glad jungle]

To set the tension: enable the extruder by extruding any amount, let the hotend cool and install a fresh cut piece of filament to ensure it's not stuck in the hotend or snagging due to a bulb. Loosen the screw while tugging on the filament above the extruder until it can slip a bit. Tighten the screw slowly while tugging until you can pull firmly and the filament will not move. Then add 1 full turn of the screw.

[glad jungle]

When an extruder doesn't have a latch re-loads are done with macros or when the extruder motor is not enabled that handy knob on the front of the extruder lets you insert by hand and start it feeding.

[amber surge]

fair enough. I was thinking more about situations where something has gone wrong - perhaps a broken bit of filament, or just for troubleshooting. Or if wanting to do a loose push of filament in for some reason.

With the CW2 I can just release the lever, troubleshoot, and close the lever. Screw is still set correctly. Other than that, I'm really liking the g2 so far....

[glad jungle]

Yeah there are definitely downsides to not having a latch unfortunately.

[amber surge]

I guess I'll just get adept at quickly resetting the tension. There's probably something to be said for that anyways.

[jaunty umbra]

what is the best way to shorten the extruder cable that comes with the LDO kit? cut and solder? depin and re-crimp?
(if its depin and re-crimp, I would appreciate some reccomendations on that parts I would need 🙂 )

[amber surge]

Question on Rotation Distance: I just performed an extrusion test on my g2sa after installing. I attempted 100mm but only 91mm actually went through. My current config:

gear_ratio: 9:1
microsteps: 16
full_steps_per_rotation: 200```

Based on the math, if I accept that everything is otherwise normal, I need to update my rotation distance to 42.850 in order to get correct extrusion.   That seems like a pretty big differential.  Anything else I should be looking at?

[amber surge]

Update: It turns out I must have mismeasured on my first attempt - further testing showed I was only out by 1mm, not 9. Small tweak to the rotation distance and I'm good to go....

[vivid lantern]

I highly recommend this for e-steps calibration https://thangs.com/designer/MihaiDesigns/3d-model/Extruder E-steps calibration tool-47802?utm_source=https://mihaidesigns.com/&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=inf&utm_campaign=mihai

[meager inlet]

Trying to narrow down why I'm getting some extruding issues. First, I assumed it was my hot end. I checked fans and both are fine. I checked hotend for clogs and completely replaced the nozzle and first layer was fine. After it does some solid infills, it starts to skip. I just took off the extruder and noticed extruder stepper that comes with the GE2 kit is warm. Still warm several minutes after removing it from the printer. I have run_current to 0.6.

[extruder]
step_pin: sb2040:gpio9
dir_pin: sb2040:gpio10
enable_pin: !sb2040:gpio7
rotation_distance: 47.088    #Galileo 2 Extruder
##    Update Gear Ratio depending on your Extruder Type
##    Use 50:17 for Afterburner/Clockwork (BMG Gear Ratio)
##    Use 80:20 for M4, M3.1
## Use 9:1 for G2E
gear_ratio: 9:1                #G2E Gear Ratio
microsteps: 16
full_steps_per_rotation: 200    #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.75
heater_pin: sb2040:gpio6
##    Validate the following thermistor type to make sure it is correct
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: sb2040:gpio27
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 300
max_power: 1.0
min_extrude_temp: 170
#control = pid
#pid_kp = 26.213
#pid_ki = 1.304
#pid_kd = 131.721
##    Try to keep pressure_advance below 1.0
#pressure_advance: 0.03
##    Default is 0.040, leave stock
#pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040
max_extrude_cross_section: 5
max_extrude_only_distance: 101

##    E0 on Motor7
##    Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: sb2040:gpio8
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.6
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0```

[bright trench]

i recrimped them today lol, work just fine. the only thing you needs is something like a jst-hx crimping set which is <10$€

(check the connectors though im not 100% sure

[meager inlet]

I just dissasembled and my gears are packed with filament dust. Would that mean I had the tension knob too tight?

[devout patio]

Use macros to load and unload. Especially when you have a screen, if you name them LOAD_FILAMENT and UNLOAD_FILAMENT klipperscreen automatically recognises them. Once you get used to that you wont go back.

Since there were questions about g2's capability of printing tpu, it can do 85a at 100mm/s no issue. Bare in mind, i use a self designed extruder body (way more compact than g2sa), but the single feeding doesn't pose an issue

In case anybody is interested in the settings used:
1,5mm retract distance, 30mm/s retract speed, 20mm/s un retract speed, pressure advance of 0,4 (yes, you read correctly), everything printed at 100mm/s (flow rate capped in slicer), rapido uhf at 240c. Can probably go faster, but ill inspect the finished print first

[slate aurora]

I was gonna say, holy retraction+PA

But then I read TPU

Makes sense 😅

[devout patio]

PA was indeed bonkers, including funny noises, high amounts of movement and all that sht. But my best tpu cali dragon to date, 3 tiny strings between the horns at thats it. No other calibration done, spool was even open for a few months, although nicely cooled on my conservatory, romm temperature of 16c according to the printer

[bright trench]

which xy joints did you use to run the archetype mjolnir setup?

and can you share some pics of the escapement G2e extruder?

[devout patio]

Custom cnc. You can also laser cut them. The closest thing online can would be trailhead xy joints. I wasn't happy with the full cnc ones, either glass bead blasted finish or bearings on the teethed side of the belt. I can also switch to 9mm belts that way. I can share pictures, cad/stl of the extruder. Now shares vzbot/lgx lite bolt pattern

[bright trench]

https://3do.eu/frame-accessories/1671-1702-common-anomaly-ultra-light-x-beam-aluminum-xy-joints-voron-compatible.html#/96-length-300mm

would these suffice ya think?

yeah i would definitely appreciate just some pics of the setup

(somehow im unable to join their discord server..)

[slate aurora]

You can also run with stock joints if you flip them upright with the y rails

[bright trench]

do i need it reorder the bearings etc then?

i mean thats no issue for stock

[bright trench]

but if i were to get these; im not sure if the bearings can be rearranged

[slate aurora]

You’ll just want to run the bearings flipped on the motor mount and front idlers then too

[devout patio]

Not even that. Flip the gantry, done. No other idler or pulley must be changed

[slate aurora]

Okay cool. I was starting to question myself🤣

Thanks!

[devout patio]

Dont mind the extruder wire, haven't had the chance to shorten it as im still working out my new canbus wire and it would be a shame if the wire was too short.
Other noteworthy things: filament cutter, ebb42, endstop homing, microprobe plus auto z offset. I prefer the ebb42 over the 36 as its easier to package with the square shape and having 4 instead of 2 mounting holes is a welcome benefit

[bright trench]

thank you!

looks pretty awesome mate

[slate aurora]

Need that escapement(when it’s fully ready)

[devout patio]

Thanks, currently all black because here and there some refinements. Ducts and extruder knob will become blue after i figured out the tolerances on the sequin leds for nozzle lighting

[daring cobalt]

What's the fastest speed I can likely run the Galileo 2 extruder motor at? After upgrading from a CW1 to Galileo 2 (and SB2240), my UNLOAD_FILAMENT script has stopped working properly. It only moves maybe 10-20mm (instead of 100mm) and makes a higher pitched vibrating noise. The script is:

    G91
    G92 E0
    G1 E-50 F3000
    G1 E-50 F3000
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=UNLOADFILAMENT```

Am I trying to retract too fast or is there maybe something else going on / going wrong? I've got the run_current set to 0.650 for the extruder (tmc2240 driver in the SB2240).

[warm quiver]

Anyone have issues with your canbus cable connector not fitting through the pg7 umbilical mounts for example the hartk one and JosAr one? It seems all of them i can find that have a slot cut through the threaded portion don’t fit my btt sb2209 connector.

The threaded portion fits the pg7 connector though

[grizzled talon]

you can try mine if you want?

included the f3d in case you want to modify it

[crystal elbow]

Assembling a G2E and the manual doesn’t say anything about loctite. The grub screw does have loctite on it. Should I loctite anything else, or is there a risk of it eating the plastic? My parts are ABS. I also have the glue stick kind of loctite, so I’m less worried about drips

[subtle scroll]

Grub screw is only loctite.

Loctite eats ABS, dunno about the resin used for the injection molded parts. I suppose you could use it on toolhead board attachment screw, but it isn't needed and more likely to be a pita later

[compact fjord]

been printing with the g2 for a few days and i've been running into an issue with speed.
if i print too fast, it begins to slip and won't extrude anything until i gently push the filament into the bowden tube. it's like as soon as i put even the lightest bit of pressure it'll start extruding again. any ideas?

[warm quiver]

Really cool! Thank you Daten I will give it a try.

[vivid lantern]

Did you change the extruder params on the config? gear ratio?

[random vale]

should we only use the Galileo mod kit from LDO but not with a existing orbiter 2? why the case of my orbiter 2 has a longer lid, so that the backplate of the galileo won’t fit into it?

[slate aurora]

I thought you could only do Galileo 1 with an orbiter 1.5

And Galileo 2 is a completely different thing

[random vale]

i was using galileo 2 with orbiter 2

https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2

[sage widget]

G2 has its own special kit, not the orbiter one

[random vale]

ah..then it is just an orbiter 2 replacement...

[sage widget]

orbiter and galileo are 2 separate projects

the only similarity is that they both use a planetary gear system

[random vale]

yes yes, i know...

[sage widget]

it replaces meaning it doesn't reuse parts from either of those

it's a 3rd option compared to those 2

[slate aurora]

It’s for making mounting to existing extruder mounts. So it makes legacy projects easy to use it with

[random vale]

i was just want to have a better design for mounting orbiter2 on the sb. the user mod is always not that perfect. i tought g2sa is what i want

[slate aurora]

Say someone with a hero me setup or some old machine

[slate aurora]

You need to order a G2 kit

[sage widget]

G2E kit to be exact

[slate aurora]

They’re custom, ring gear, planets, and the center shaft are all specific

And the motor

9T stepper

But it all comes in the kit

[random vale]

but actually i dont have the kit for cw2

[slate aurora]

What?

[sage widget]

the G2E kit is used to assemble either the G2E itself or the G2SA

they use the same parts, just different printed parts

[slate aurora]

G2E is comes in few options packaging wise

By voron you get either cw2 packaging or standalone

Then there’s also wristwatch and escapement

[random vale]

yep. my build was a cw1 kit. and the quality of the cw1 was pretty bad... i dont want to touch it

[slate aurora]

All using the same hardware. Just packaged differently

[slate aurora]

You can just use the orbiter 2

[random vale]

yep. thats why i just want to find some good design to mount it on sb

[slate aurora]

There’s some mods for SB if you’re wanting that

[slate aurora]

https://github.com/sneakytreesnake/StealthOrbiter

There’s probably others too

[random vale]

i've found a couple. but they seems either ugly or the mechanical design is poor..

maybe i could also try the one from mellow

[slate aurora]

Try what?

[random vale]

https://github.com/Mellow-3D/Stealthburner-Orbiter-2.0

[sage widget]

you can print those yourself

that is your choice, this thread is more meant for the actual galileo 2

[slate aurora]

You can ask others in the user_mods section

[random vale]

sure. just try to reply you guys...not intend to off topic....

[slate aurora]

Oh sorry!

I don’t know where you live. But here’s a link to what you want

https://3do.eu/extruder-spare-parts/1232-galileo-2-extruder-kit-by-ldo.html

[bright trench]

what x rail are you using?

[devout patio]

The x axis is a locally produced one, wks3d. Although i should have gone with the heavy duty version as that one would deflect less when heated

[bright trench]

the one from common anomaly looks nice.. but very expensive haha

[slate aurora]

I like the CA beam but at this point I wish I went with a CF tube for monolith

I’m going to run CA with monolith but part of me wants to bring it to RMRRF to see if anyone wants to buy it instead

[warm quiver]

I printed your mount but the threaded hole is way to big for my pg7 threads. It just slips in and out. On the upside the sb2209 connector fits through.

I have this connector

[grizzled talon]

That's very odd. I'm using the pg7 standard thread that's in fusion360 and my pgz connector fits, was even a little tight. The hole iniist pressure the connector with calipers. Iirc the diameter should be 12.5

Wow autocorrect and 11pm butchered that lmao, but yea it's odd that's it's oversized. It's the smallest pg7 diameter selectable in fusion

[warm quiver]

On my connector is says M12X1.5

[grizzled talon]

I will see if anyone has a set 9f smaller pg7 threads that I can import into f365, if so I will shoot the file over

Will be tomorrow though for that

[warm quiver]

yeah no problem. Just leaving you some feedback.

[bright trench]

can you share which monolith? never heard of anything like it

[primal thistle]

Jeah it depends very much on the filament type, some benefit much more than others.
Also need to be careful when tuning max flow with CHT. When they get closer to their limit, the filament starts coming out with a lot of stress in it, you can see this because it comes out curling, even though the race-track test still looks fine.
These stresses mess with bridging and overhangs sometimes.