#technology
1 messages · Page 12 of 1
huh? At least it is Samsung, right?
I'm a Xiaomi user, and I wish I should've bought Nokia instead
I don't know what I'd have bought otherwise tho... I kinda really hate the smartphone market atm... tho probs my next phone will be a fairphone since I want it to last rather than be fast.
Everyone here hates Xiaomi eh... Even it is cheap
I just want Android phone with headphone jack. Right now using Samsung
Yea... cheap doesn't matter too much if the software is garbage.
Like, I'd take iOS over Xiaomi's Android any day... Which considering I hate the way iOS works should say a lot 
What is the best audio driver for a machine that uses an AMD cpu?
Whatever's on your system already, mate
Are you sure stock drivers are okay? I don't need Dolby or Realtek for higher quality audio?
well, budget cannot make me choose something too much so, I am choosing Samsung and buy in next 6-12 months alone is already "!!!" for me
it is 1 year and 1 month left before my 5 year mark of my VIVO V15(Already a time to change it, my "optimal condition" threshold), but can't prep like... 1000 US$ for an iOS with their scummy shit, at best 334$ or I can break it up to 500 US$ and buy the phones recc above but they are too outdated by later standards so eh?
Nord 1: 2020
6a: 2022(still can accept this but eh?)
Note 10: 2019(Nani?!), same year as my Vivo V15
Genshin and NIKKE might make them get waaay too hot
eh, Realme is OPPO
Why do you care so much about release date/ The only real difference is update support
Some 2022/2023 phones are using processors from like five years ago
And no their release date has nothing to do with them possibly becoming too hot
Go to the manufacturer of your motherboard, download whichever one they provide, call it a day.
When it comes to audio drivers, or a lot of drivers in general... It's kind of a "if it works, it works" kinda deal.
Sometimes new updates give more performance/features or fix bugs but outside that? meh.
hmmmm... okay if you said so... but still, for me, it just matter a bit... sorry
My 9t Pro becomes either really hot or stays nice and cool...
It all kinda just depends on where I lay them, what I lay on top of them and which side the screen is facing (up or down) :^)
Mine only throttles noticeably when I;m charging and doing much more than I should at once
hmmm... ok...
I'm getting one of this but I don't know if it's gonna be useful for everyone
Wait Sound Blaster is still a thing? I thought they were left for dead back in the late 80s early 90s
they still are going strong lol I just visited their Main HQ office building in my country a few weeks ago
I mean I haven't heard about them since like the 90s or so.... Man I now feel old
they dipped for awhile
but coming back pretty strong now
im using one of their soundbars rn
pretty great for the price
proud to support a Singapore made product as a Singaporean lol
My tablet is imported from Japan so there are a few Japanese only keys
Are there any Japanese layout users here? So I can know what these keys are used for.
Internal sound cards are dumb as fuck. Don't waste your money
Especially if you don't have the audio equipment that could even see a potential improvement
the only things I could see needing it in my house are my $2000 studio monitors and my dad's 11.2.4 surround sound home theater I guess??
I use this:
Came with my cloud 2, way better than my on board audio
LMAO
Then I ditched gaming headphone
Proper entry level cans aren't expensive either
I started with the he4xx
~50€ back in 2020 for Cloud 2's, good enough for me, I'm not an audiophile
Oh that's really cheap
It was a huge upgrade from the noname ones I had before, and as I said, I'm not an audiophile
Your on-board must have been horrific for this to have been an improvement
It was 50€ because the box was allegedly damaged, but it was in perfect condition lmao
I have a B450M Mortar Max
It has ALC892/897 according to MSI
Yeah, no way that in-line is better than your onboard then
It is
at least to me it's a pretty noticeable difference
Doubt
Anyways, I used to use some MH751's. Amazing headset until they broke. I now use some Pixel Bud Pro's
Eh, onboards are at a huge disadvantage for simply being in a not-exactly-EMI-friendly environment in the first place
Most of them are only a couple cm away from VRM, right next to ethernet magnetics
I started with my uncle's old SE-864
My first proper ones were the ie800
Bout a decade ago LOL
Now I use tws 
Can't beat the convenience
And the same goes for most internal PCIe cards. Depending on the board, most on-board is more than enough for anything that doesn't have high impedance, and you'd not often find cases where EMI is a large problem nowadays
If you want to really improve your audio, you should go external, and that's only if you have something like headphones that could actually benefit to begin with
?
meh, unless you want to use an XLR mic or high impedance headphone (like DT-770 Pro 250 Ohm) or have a very low-end mobo? Not really that useful...
Most modern on-board audio solutions are more than solid.
If you really don't want to use the onboard stuff, just use a Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen...
Over here, for the price of that Sound Blaster, you can literally get:
- The Audio interface (Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen)
- A DT-770 Pro
- Still have 40 bucks left

Why do people keep reacting with gems to my mesaages
XLR mic
Only if it's balanced, esp condenser one. Otherwise it doesn't really make that much of a difference tbf
It depends I guess, the equation is a bit skewed when your mains has built in ground loop straight from the utility 
idk why others do it, I just do it as like an "upvote" kinda thing. 
IC. Couldn't tell if it was a sort of upvote or if it was mockery, saying this message is a gem, or something
I mean, it was more a thing of: If you need the connector (eg. already have a mic for it or looking at one currently etc).
Tho USB mics ahve come to the point of being "more than enough" nowadays.
Fair.
DLSS is better from a performance and quality standpoint... but indeed, it's a vendor lock-in so I cba since there is a "good enough" alternative 
Then again, I play most of my games in 720p windowed (just keeps it more consistent + puts more info in my view focus) so eh.
yeah
i hate its exclusivity
so amd FSR ftw
i'll still use DLSS cuz i can, but if i can't, AMD FSR is defninitely what i'll use
or the intel XeSS
I never tried Intel XeSS so I can't comment on that.
yeah same lmfao
soon to have the intel arc a770
but i bet you the 3060 i have will never die
idk if I'm gonna by an Arc tbf...
It does look neat on paper but I want it to prove itself first before making the jump... Especially since it can seriously affect my production capabilities (and sanity...)
Yay
The thing with it id
Idc if it's unstable
I just like Intel
16gb vram is delicious too
"I just like Intel"
Zzzzz
ngl... imagine liking Intel after the spanking they got from AMD the past few years 
imagine being a fanboi for any brand
True.
||Unless it's Ampere
||
That was indeed my point
The brand doesn't really matter if the product is good, unless their policies or some such also influence the product negatively
I wanna support a 3rd player in the space
So that the duopoly is broken 
More sales also means more motivation and $ for them to improve the product
That's true to a degree.
If I had money that I could spend on a gamble like that, I would have done it.
But I don't have a disposable income like that, so the risk is too big for me to take.
we consumers won't make a dent to convince the director board
^^
iirc, Intel sold like 5M units in total (don't quote me on the exact number)... So 1 GPU won't really do anything no.
It's not up to the consumer to support a 3rd competitor anyway
All you should be doing as a consumer is just get the best product you need for the best price
Intel can take it it's not some small mom and pops shed in their family backyard
Yep
GPUs have a high chance to last well over a decade so yeah
My 1070 is like 7 years old
My RX580 is also like 6 years old.
Still works fine for a lot of games.
The biggest issue I tend to run in, is related to memory (be it RAM or VRAM) and me never really re-installing my OS to clean it 
Can i ask why my loading screen just stand here for like 15 minutes pass but no load to game
I use wifi connection
I still think it good and not have disruption problems
every lil bit counts honestly, i believe in the ripple effect
and my 4790 build is complete
I just need the GTX 1050 that my late friend left. just talked to his wife of getting it out of his old PC for me, and fix the fan.
or just scrap the OG fan and strap a case fan over the heatsink instead
GHonna be honest, that looks depressing
I'm getting PTSD from that PSU, ngl.
This was my 4790 machine, lol
Yeah, with the exception of the main components like the CPU, motherboard, and RAM, the rest are new old parts that I haven't been used for, idk, 5 years? they are still in their original boxes.
though, my room got some serious ant and termite infestation once that ruined my old bookshelf where I put some of the parts, they work just fine after a quarter bottle of alcohol and a soft toothbrush.
that's the cleanest I can go without resorting to hard elbow grease and risking the fan and inner components of the PSU. dw it works fine.
The dust isn't the part I'm worried about 
I love the "I'll just drop the SSD here I guess" attitude.
At least I used the old SD card mount of my case to put on my SSD ez
cable management or rather just the sheer amount of mess thst non modulars give headaches with?
The fact the PSU doesn't really look like it was made with quality in mind. 
read: I wonder when it'll go kaboom
the risk of buying a local brand.
fair
but I'm not really worried, I've seen cheaper stuff that are like 5-15 quid and starts smoking when those poor boys fired their GTX 1650
and I tested this little puppy with an RX 5700 XT for around 2 hours at a buddy's house and it runs well.
ofc I keep in mind that it will only hold to around 400 Watts
Just FYI but... That means nothing
Hi guys im new
Hii new
What about Over Current Protection? Short Circuit Protection? Over Temperature Protection?
What's the lifetime of the caps? Does it properly handle the switch-off spike?
There's a lot more to a PSU than just delivering power...
I have a PSU laying around here that can provide 450W just fine even though it's a 300W PSU...
But it has no OTP or OCP to speak off so I wouldn't dare to use it in a real-world environment. 
current build for me
i love this thing a good lot
but i just can’t find a cpu cooler that is under 155mm that can actually do sum
it has, it has, and it has, based on the documentation that I have with it. And as far as I can tell, when it was brand new, my tech nerd buddy tested it at his house and said that those features are present.
They claimed that it has the typical 10-year "solid Japanese" caps lifetime, but the thing is it's kinda like a Chinese make-believe situation, (and the more plausible explanation may be that they are Taiwanese Caps which has a 5-year lifetime).
by the way, after a bit of a digging I did when I bought it brand new, I found out that the PSU is a rebrand of a FSP line (more specifically, the newer Hexa series, not the old ones).
and later on, I do have a plan to switch it with either a Seasonic,.a Cooler Master, or an EVGA, whichever has a sale on. So for now I'm just seeing how much this PSU will go (not that I'm gonna go the distance and pull the RTX 3090 trick, mind you)
meanwhile this is how my first built pc looked, wire hell
that PCIE wire spaghetti
I wish newer PSU standard finally get away with 24pin Molex MiniFit, and the legacy voltages, and the nonsensical pinout
ATX 12VO does away with that
problem is it means the point of failure goes from PSU to Mobo now
Regulations, ripples and transient responses will be much better with Point of Load conversions
Even more so with 3v3 that will only get even more usage
PoL regulations will also finally lessens the impact of supply quality on power delivery
i.e. it won't matter anymore if your PSU gives 11v or 13v
Thinking about it, might as well raise the voltage to 18v (19v?) since modern switching MOSFETs are usually rated at 25v or 30v.
But that probably way too big of a change to make
Well, halving the chance of burning connectors probably worth doing
just take your time on the cable management, like I did with mine.
It may have those protections, but do they work properly? Remember the Gigabyte PSUs from about 2 years ago? They had OPP and OCP... They just didn't work properly leading to kabooms. 
How did your buddy test them? Did he just overload them and hope for the best? Or does he have access to something like an SM-268 and knows how to use it?
If they are rebrands from the Hexa+ series, you basically confirmed me in saying it's shit.
Anything below Hydro G, Dagger SFX and Aurum CM are wonky at best.
Even Aurum CM I'd rather not put in any build.
Just don't be surprised if the thing Ara-Ara's your entire PC soon.
Honestly, if you'd see my personal PC builds, you'd suffer a stroke 
I spend exactly 0 minutes cable managing it.
more like just tried to stress test it with both Furmark and Prime95 and see if there were any smoke or sparks from within for iirc 3 hours, with the toaster back then that was GTX 480 and the fryer that was the i7 9xx series (mine was 930, his was 950). other than the heat that he anticipated, no issues with pulling 375+ W on the meter non stop for that 3 hours until his house's breaker tripped (which often happens with small households with less than 2200 VA power capacity)
Well, you take what you can get, and I do have my own estimates in case this system shit itself, and also some precautions just in case. Lucky you to be able to access better parts with your budget.
I've seen folks where I live trying to push their Ryzenswith cheapo Antec, Enlight,or Seasonic units. A college almamater of mine even ran his Ryzen 5 video editing rig with an RTX 3060 for 2 years with a 50 quid Seasonic. still runs today, but he doesn't use it anymore because he has a different job which only requires him to use a laptop.
well, that's quite extending it, so I close my case.
I am saving for a better budgeted system, but I don't think I'll be able to get it until the end of the year
The thing with PSU is that its failure mode can be quite unpredictable unless it's outright defective, straight up fraud, or still very close to the near side of the bathtub
"Normal" loading even with benchmark software isn't quite testing edge cases as far as QA goes. It's mostly continuous load after all. You won't know how it handle transient load, or cross load, or even what happen when there's brownout on the mains, etc.
Also check your mains wiring if putting load on it causes slow trip. I bet it's still on the old TN-C wiring system
Or does he have access to something like an SM-268 and knows how to use it?
You don't even need a dedicated lab grade programmable DC load to do the test. Strategically configuring several 1R 100W resistors is enough. Add a shunt transistor if you need fine tuning, which is exactly the same with how loads like SM-268 works anyway. It'll cost you about $30 instead of $1300
Yuh, then again, it was more of a thing of "poke a screwdriver in it to see what happens" vs "actually test the thing".
it's taking soo long to download
How come ios is more bloated than android?
That highly depends on which Android ROM you're using. 
I have a feeling Xiaomi ROMs are more bloated than iOS.
I'm using Galaxy S23
oh yea, Mi Video always giving shit content and always be there 
can't wait to throw this Poco F3 around
also for almost 2 years of using.
these 4500mah battery only got 3700mah of juice on full capacity
Because it was a 80 MB download while on ios its like 2.9 gb to download off the store
I have a wallpaper that I've picked myself (just some Shimakaze artwork, nothing major)... Yet still I find my phone asking me constantly if maybe I'm interested in like "livening up my phone with their selection of wallpaper"...
NO.
ah yes, the wallpapers no one wants
Ikr XD
accidentaly it popped up
Idk if they have region-specific BS, but somehow I never get any annoying BS from them
maybe EU doesn't get it tho
I am EU.
I don't get it
I got a 4tb nvme ssd for 225 today 
I have 4TB HDD in my PC xD
I almost have every type of storage in my PC xd
M.2 NVme
SSD
7200 RPM HDD
5400 RPM HDD
I have
500GB M.2 NVme (Gen 3)
512GB SSD
1 TB HDD 7200 RPM from my old rig
4TB HDD 5400 RPM
I’ll probably ditch that 1TB HDD for 2TB NVme
500GB boot drive (gen 3)
1 TB nvme SSD (gen 3)
2 TB HDD 5400rpm SMR
good shit
yt-dlp onto ssd
compress -> archive onto HDD
Not gonna ditch my 4TB HDD anytime soon
send data from HDD onto NAS or some friends cloud storage
cuz i'm not surviving on a crimply 1tb
and my nas is full of movies, games, and anime 💀
I have all of that in my 4TB HDD
The rest of storages i use for OS and priority games and stuff
Nice xD
no BTRFS sadly
only ext4 so there's chances of data loss
i tried using my sisters google account for backing up since it was unlimited
but school noticed and took it down
💀
You may consider RAID or something like that
More than RAID1 is probably overkill
ahaha yeah
Or using google drive which is already limited
fck google drive
i need unlimited storage
20-30TB is needed
but why don't i have it? I'm broke
Thats the same reason for me xD
the fractal node 304 is something i want though
I tried to build sub 200$ build
But its scam xD
I just upgraded my entire PC 3 months ago
haha
5 bay m-atx case
it's super hot
but expensive
i5-8400 -> i5-11600KF
16GB 2400Mhz C16-> 16GB 3600Mhz C18
NZXT S340 -> Cooler Master TD500
RTX 2070 -> RTX 3060Ti (FREE UPGRADE)
I only carried my 650w PSU and storage with me
Even the cooler Hyper 212 upgraded it to Thermalright PA 120 SE
That cooler went from overkill to not enough to cool CPU xD
Also i got most of the stuff 2nd hand
So it costed me little
ooooh
nice
i've had this pc for a good while now
i5-11400F
16GB 3200mhz CL16
RTX3060 (140% power limit)
500W BR psu
cooler master i71c cpu cooler
Thermaltake Versa H17 (aka. Choking PC case)
literally no air vents
like
it's fully suffocating
that's why my intake fans are maxxed out and my exhaust fans are on low
i'll have to figure out how to put more HDD's onto this pc
5 sata slots right
but the issue is that this case has little to no storage, since my PSU is not modular
Damn, i had PSU like this
But my old case had alot of room
My current case doesnt
Also only x2 HDDs
Kekw
Windows 11 is alright now
On launch it was glitchy
That i wait for 4 months before upgrading
I dont face bugs with it (unless with really specific things)
Like some engineering programs
I haven't upgraded to w11 yet
If your CPU is 11th gen or before or AMD, it doesn’t matter
I just have very old hardware. Which is not compatible with W11
Surely you'll be able to upgrade in 2 years
Originally the OS was a Win7 which was then upgraded to W10
I have no idea
It should tell you
I need to check when I get home.
There was a piece of software
Don't remember the name now
Uuhhhh
If you changed your hardware in order to upgrade to Windows 11 and the system is not recognizing the change in a timely manner, this article explains how to initiate the assessment manually.
Here
I have problem with some engineering related programs
Pc health check should tell you if your pc is compatible or not
It only works on older W10 builds or before
If it's just tpm missing, it will tell you straight away
You can completely bypass TPM
With few tricks
Some people got Core 2 to work with W11
I don't wanna do that
Yep, doesnt worth the hassle
I don't want to stress out my desktop like the school does with their yoga 11e
While W10 can work with CPUs as old as Pentium III
Tpm 2.0 just seems like a good piece of tech for general security
From 1997
I wouldn't mind having it
If you have 8th gen CPU or later from intel, its mobo should support TPM 2.0
but might need to enable it from BIOS
I don't think tpm has to do with cpus
I guess Ryzen 3000 too
Yep, its mobo
Pretty sure it's a component mounted on the mobo
You can buy TPM 2.0 as seperate part for old mobos
You can buy it separately if you don't wanna upgrade the whole thing
It's like 15-20 euros
Yep
In 2021 it got scalped
Now its back to normal
But yeah, unless security is main concern with you, you can live just fine with TPM 1.2
Like some companies
But yeah, W10 is good until 2025
You may upgrade the whole thing before it becomes out of support
Windows 11 initial requirements were CPU with x64 instruction set
Which in theory should work with even Core 2 Duo E7500 from 2006
Alr
It's not like W10 suddenly stop working after supports end
If you're concerned about compatibility and security that much you can always dedicate an air gap system for it
A lot of our CAM/CNC boxes still run XP or even 98
Going from 2tb sata SSD for windows boot drive to 512gb m.2 for windows now
(M.2s can also be SATA)
Also, I tried everything short of modifying the installer itself (including registry edits) but I couldn't bypass Win 11's CPU requirement. Still annoyed
Cant bypass it using rufus?
Yeah, alot of shops here still runs XP just fine xD
I hadn't gone down that route. I was running the installer through Win 10
Yep, its bot easy to bypass OS installer xD
You will need to modify it somehow
My PC decided to turn on by itself (again) xD
Idk if it wants me to use it or what xD
I love you too….
It's a nvme m.2
You missed the point but k
Your Discord username is also yikes
Just looked it up. I suppose I'll try Rufus next
I love this screen, but i hate this defect
It does that for 15 seconds - 1 minute before it goes back to normal
It only happened like 2 years past warranty
But i like pranking my friends that it s broken xD
Been using it for almost 5 years now
It's just a bunch of Oshi Marks
Depends.. It can be CPU and/or Motherboard.
Old generations (Pre-Haswell and Pre-Zen) need a dedicated addon for it.
Intel from Haswell onwards has embedded it in their PCH (motherboard) as part of the "Intel Management Engine", AMD Zen and onwards has it on the CPU (as part of the "AMD Platform Security Processor").
Ignoring "business" (like Intel vPro) and server chipsets ofc.
I see
the noctua nh-d9l looking real fine
I am a programmer now
I think I have that in my server
Either that or something very similar...
jepp, NH-D9L
yes
i want that for my primary pc
cuz the cooler master i71c isn’t cutting it
155mm cpu cooler height
that’s my only grit
can’t fit the 212
D:
neat looking case but it just screams "choke me harder daddy" when I see that front XD
yessssss
yeah lmfao it’s such a choke
it was on discount tho
and it’s pretty good
fair xD
+1 for dat cup
got the 3060
got a broken gpu
sagging harder than me
so i use a cup
i love cup
if it works, it works
nice
60c even under “choke me” status
looks nice n chonky as well so lots of surface area probs
64GB yuh
DDR4
POGGGERS
Fair
Putting my PC on full load makes it throttle in 2-3 minutes
I need better cpu cooling
Normally it runs at 3.9-4.2ghz
Bottled to 1.8ghz
But my PC specs are:
CPU: Core i5-11600KF
Motherboard: ASUS TUF B560 Plus WiFi
Cooler: Thermalright PA 120 SE (this mf CPU pulls upto 200W)
Memory: 16GB (2x8) DDR4 3600 C18
GPU: Palit RTX 3060Ti LHR
PSU: EVGA 650W G2 80+ Gold
Case: Cooler Master TD500 mesh
Storage:
I. Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M.2 NVme
II. Silicon Power 512GB SSD SATA
III. WD Blue 1TB HDD 7200 RPM
IV. WD Blue 4TB HDD 5400 RPM
Good shit
Dont use prime95
Palit is LIT
That's AIDA64 extreme
Yk why?
It's attempting AVX512 workloads
And AVX512 is the most demanding process for a cpu
Normally AVX2 is used (256 bit string)
It's a universal one, AVX2
but avx512 is Intel exclusive, and it's super demanding
That's what I know about it
I see
Im using 3 monitors here
Going sturdy as a display after 2 years rn lol
1 monitor
I plan on getting a colorimeter to tune the colours
Why?
I have no clue
- Samsung CHG70 1440p 144Hz
- LG MK22 1080p 75Hz
- Rasperry PI 7 Inch screen from china
Damn
Bros wild
I want more but the price
And my table is small too
Humble setup
The 3rd monitor costed me 40$ from China
💀💀
And it has touch too
Real
I realize why the cpu overheats, it's cuz I put it on a unlocked tdp
So its drawing as much power as it wants, leading to high temps
How much power it draws?
Normally the TDP is 65
Max
Its designed to pull like 85-95w TDP?
Used it with i5-11600KF, it couldn’t handle it
Thinking of a 120mm AIO or a Noctua nh-d9l
You may consider those SFF coolers
I got the most future proof cooler that i could find for 40$ xD
On paper it draws 265W of heat
But in reality it struggles after 240W
💀💀
I may consider undervolting my CPU too
My i5-8400 was like that too
It wasnt pulling more than 61W tho
1.2 is nice
Temps are fine
1 volt is best
Its just ASUS Motherboards going crazy with power limits
The hard limit is 1.8V
Im not doing LN2 xD
My old MSI Mobo wasnt doing that
I have ASUS Enhancers off too
I cant go below 1.35V
Since im running XMP
and memory controller needs that 1.35V
Also CPU may not be stable below it xD
Its 125w chip
I got that CPU for little below 150$ (Unopened box 2nd hand)
So it was great deal for me xD
I tried to overclock my ram to 3733
It ran fine
Idk how much further i can push it
My GPU overclocks fine too, but i run it stock
If i had Z590 mobo i would’ve attempted 5Ghz+ on CPU
my 2666mhz could go to 3600mhz cl18
it ran ok
i fed it 1.4v
i don't bother with gpu OC
i get 5 extra frames for 80 watts
wasn't it 1.5v that was too much
lmfao
1.35 -> 1.4
it ain't too bad
I mean its a bit to the high side xD
kekw
Its XMP profile is 3600Mhz CL18
ah
my xmp is 2933mhz cl16
so going to 3600mhz cl18 is good
micron sticks so it's OC'able enough
Upgrading my 2400Mhz to 3600Mhz wasnt much fps wise
But everything else got better
And micro stutters went away entirely
2400Mhz CL16 was too slow
But intel CPUs dont care as much as AMD CPUs
2400Mhz to 3600Mhz in gaming wasnt much of difference (10 FPS Max)
But 1% and 0.1% got a lot better
And in productivity everything got a lot faster with 3600Mhz kit
3200mhz could be godo but the timings get loose
i see
7zip is magnificent
such powerfull compression
500mb into 200mb
Nice
I have beamng on 4TB HDD
Its probably taking most of it xD
I remember in 2009 i said
Who would fill 1TB
In 2018 i easily did it xD
Before 2018 i had old PC with 320GB HDD only
Pentium 4 CPU
1 GB DDR3 (Upgraded to 3GB DDR3)
Mobo GPU (Added AMD HD 5450 2GB)
Idk the rest of specs
It was HP Prebuild
It was 32 bit system
I forgot to pull out GPU before donating the PC….
But i pulled out the HDD
Which i just destroyed later (i kinda regret that)
There was 0 important data there
It was full of junk and pirated shit
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Incoming integrated VRM 
Is this a good deal for a cheap workstation/gaming PC
who needs to have all their memory channels anyways. 
If it's AMD: Don't bother... Unless your FCLK can keep up, it's best to just max that out then put your timings tighter. Don't fret too much about your CL, it's one of the least important timings.
Nah, its intel CPU
Damn, 3733 on an Intel CPU, that's pretty pog 
nice XD
32GB is enough for me xD
Wouldnt consider anywhere over it (for now)
I have 16GB which i fill sometimes
Damn, AMD Ryzen 7th gen arent that popular here
OK?
Since intel cost a lot less here
But that seems like a massive design flaw
Im driving now so i’ll watch the video later
Getting trips at peak hours is the worst thing…..
It's not a design flaw, it's an issue wiuth some motherboards
Oh
Seems like that
I just watched most of the video
And yeah, ASUS boards tend to overvolt CPUs sometimes
My i5-11600KF sometimes spikes to 1.5V on ASUS B560 motherboard (Stock)
Idk how much current it draws tho
Idk if BIOS update is enough to fix this issue xD
most of the time it will.
like, unless there is some chip going bonkers or some kind of readout going wrong (say wrongly built voltage-sensing circuits) a BIOS update should fix it.
(hint: I've not seen the video yet)
Yeah, thats what i thought
video suggests the 2nd one btw
So yeah a BIOS update is not gonna be the sole fix for this
50mV is alot for error
Not solely the cause but a major reason for the failures
yea, if it's a physical circuit being bad, it's indeed not gonna be really "fixable" with an update.
At most you get a washing cloth on an arterial bleed: Will slow down the bleeding and possibly prevent you from bleeding out... Buuuut you still need to get stitched up.
AMD chips doesnt seem to like Voltages above 1.35V
While intel chips are specified for up to 1.52V…..
Which is dangerously high
My B560 mobo’s hard limit is 1.8V
Which is uselessly high for a locked chipset
Me just running my AMD chip at 1.46V all day 👀
Auto Voltage?
Or overclocked to 4.8?
manually set to 1.46V
Why tho xD
Mine spikes to 1.5V and i freak out sometimes xD
And im too lazy to undervolt it to 1.35v
Thats amazing for Ryzen CPU
Seen better but I'd be running into heat-related issues by then (mainly during the summer).
Aren't you risking degradation at 1.46V static though?
afaik 1.325V is the max safe voltage for static OC'ing on 7nm Ryzens
You're always risking it anyways...
- Most people subject their CPUs to a lot of thermal cycling, which causes the bond between the die and substrate to break over time.
Less of a concern on smaller chips (which is an additional reasons why chiplet designs make sense over monoliths) and mainly a concern on GPUs but still a concern for CPUs as well (especially modern Intel CPUs make me worry about this). My CPU actually always runs at around 80C (+/-3C) so this is actually less of a concern for me. People booting up games, playing for 30 minutes then letting the CPU cool back down and doing that 10 times a day hurts the CPU more in this regard than I do. - Oxide breakdown (oxides act as the insulator between the gate and channel of a transistor) is always a concern and is probably why my CPU might fail due to the high voltage I run but it's only a big issue if I run under full load for long periods of time (which pretty much never do).
- Electromigration (caused by the high Ampere draw under full load) is theoretically a concern but like, with the amounts I tend to draw, this would maybe decrease lifespan of the CPU from say 15 years to 12.5 years.
So am I causing additional degradation? Very likely but by the time it catches up to me, chances are practically 100% I've already moved to a new platform anyways and this unit will get delidded and used for educational purposes.
augh
i hâte noctua and thermalright
noctua is expensive
thermalright is 2mm above my case for height
the peerless assassin 120 is 157mm in height, which is too much
the nh-d12l is great, but expensive
there’s a d9l in a local store for cheaper tho
RAM works on 1 volts
i'm gonna try to lower the timings
0.9 doesn't boot
i improved timings and frequency by moving up to 3200mhz and from 1.2v to 1.36v
not bad
Nice
My old GPU ran 107c hotspot for a year or 2 before i repasted it and sold it later
It was throttling to 80% performance and 100% fan speed under load, but after repasting it got full performance back
Bought a mining used RTX 3060Ti for cheap
Been using it for 2 months with no issues
You’re more likely gonna upgrade before noticing degradation
You're right with all of that, but I started being a bit more concerned about it after I saw Tech Yes City's video on a degraded 3600
I'll keep my all-core OC to 1.28V get (I look the SVI2 TFN sensors), 4.375GHz
It's the wall for my 3600, going above that starts requiring substantially more voltage
Tbh, if i have unlocked mobo for my 11600KF i would try 5Ghz+
Ik my chip can do at least that
Unless its shitty silicon
If im gonna upgrade my CPU again i would just sell the whole rig
Seen some rigs similar to mine goes for 1200$ used
yea, but iirc, that's because of the thermal cycling issue being made worse by PBO.
hehe
mx4
i’m gonna reapply
i hope it helps
wait the arctic 7x co
might get that
cheaper but works too
Bought a large tube from a friend
Its helpful
Used it on CPU 2 times and once on GPU
plenty left
i see
i want to repaste asus laptop
and macbook (istg why the fuck is it so hard to repair)
i’ll get something huge
i don’t want to replace my current cooler
I even got Thermalright TF7 that I gave away to my friend who bought my old cooler
i see
30$ for a used GTX 1060 3GB
seems suspicious
Also 3GB in 2023?
Doesnt even worth flipping
I always hunt in the 2nd hand market
I got my 3060Ti for 220$ there
It was used in mining
And i sold my MSI RTX 2070 for 220$ too xD
I suppose thats a free upgrade
People here are afraid of mining and overclocked GPUs
Seen 3080s going for 450$
The weird part is that I'd much rather buy a GPU that was used for mining than I'd buy one from a "gamer".
Been using it for 2 months
Its clean
And memory overclocks very well
Not as good as my old MSI GPU
but still got enough
Mining gpus are cheaper and cleaner (if the miner knows what he do)
Mining GPUs: Are undervolted and run at a fairly consistent temperature (which is often also lower cus it runs in open-air most of the time).
Gaming GPUs: Overvolted + overclocked, endure thermal cycling multiple times a day, reach higher temps (mostly).
Also some people dont clean them
And remember:
- More voltage: More oxide breakdown.
- More thermal cycling: Bonds between die and substrate can start breaking.
Also that.
My home is isolated so idh to clean alot
I can also hide the fact that it was mined on
And im not cheating anyone
But if im asked i would say it was mined on
My GPU was mined on by me as well for a while but I'm not gonna sell this GPU anyways.
Nice
Thats why i dont mind buying mining gpu, im the winner anyway xD
Cheaper and cleaner
Unless inspection said otherwise
I mostly buy GPUs new but that's because of other concerns.
Most important aspects to check are:
Stability (Ofc)
VRM temperature (that indicates if it was undervolted or not)
Hotspot temperature (10-15c over the core temp is fine)
Also GPU’s overall appearance
I couldnt check my GPU’s VRM temps tho since it doesnt have VRM temps sensor
But voltages are normal and consistent
Also the seller gave me operational warranty
Which is a 1 day warranty
I did that with my old GPU aswell
To develop a good reputation for me and my friend (since he was the middle guy)
All GTX 1060 3GBs are going for 30-80$…..
Idh a testbench sadly for GPUS
I might build an HTPC for that purpose
Main issue here has to do with fraud :
People no longer really use cash here, instead using a system called "GOS" which is really sensitive for fraud since it still uses SMS for confirmations...
I know how to check the GPU itself but the payment is pretty tricky nowadays.
I only buy them face to face
Which limits my search methods….
But its reliable
And i pay using STC Pay (something like cash app)
Or bank transfer
Also i dont prefare someone paying me in cash
Fraud is only concern if im dealing with sellers not in my area/providence
Yea that won't really help with the issue here :\
Damn
I see why 2nd hand is hassle with you
Here they are mostly overpriced af
Need more RAM
Pain
Like the problem is the existence of "GOS", especially in combination with its reliance on SMS...
Most 2nd hand sellers here only accept GOS nowadays... But a malicious seller could basically spoof a message, say they haven't received payment yet and try to trick you in a second payment.
I know how to spot the fraud but it's still a lot of extra hassle I'd rather not deal with (especially since a lot of those sellers aren't exactly the "nice people").
And thats an RGB ram
I know the pain.
Thats an issue
Here in one of the platforms i can like my account into “Absher” account
Absher is my governmental e services
Which is way overkill so i didnt do it
And not alot of people doing it for the same reason
yeah i don’t think it’s the thermal paste
it’s just the lack of airflow in the “choke me” case
i71c isn’t meant for a 100w draw in a suffocating case
You will need something like Lian-Li case that has HDD compartments behind the motherboard
But something that holds 1084927 HDDs? Idk
We do have a system called "Tikkie" which is like "the golden standard" for that kinda shit over here (Tikkie is very solid)... But the biggest 2nd hand market place in the country has their shitty GOS...
And if you do not use GOS, you can not get any help in case some issues do arrive so you're kinda forced to either hope you didn't miss anything or leave yourself open to fraud....
💀
i just use a debit card
load money in
insert
done
i then lock the card once the transactions thru
Thats if you are buying brand new stuff
I'm pretty sure 99% of the people here don't have a reader for debit cards laying in their home XD
e transfer
Noone has
Expect if he is a merchant himself
bro has to use SMS for vulnerability
yo @waxen star can’t you transfer using bank accounts
I mean, I do... But that's because I also do other payment related stuff (like video shoots)
But if im buying new PC components i just buy from my local amazon or newegg or these sites
Since local PC shops are stealers
Unless im okey with buying 3050 for 400$
oh fair
yeah it’s a ripper
but then there’s the 6750xt for 500
CAD TOO
so yeah
I only go to local shops for buying HDDs or PSUs or cases
i buy everything from them if they have it in stock
Even those are available in my local amazon
Yesn't.
We have "Tikkie" in the country (it's our golden standard)... But the 2nd hand market place doesn't use that, it uses their GOS system (with the shitty SMS).
You can work it out between the two of you to use Tikkie but if you then run into some issues within a day of purchase, the marketplace will not help you (since according to them, the purchase never took place).
only if you use their garbage system will they assist you.
But you don’t have to use their system
use the bank etransfer
or is this not like craigslist
cuz on craigslist you can use any form of payment lmfao
And then you better not have any issues within a day of purchase.
We have market place loke a craigslist
Its called haraj
OOOOOOH
I see
that makes sense now ty
The problem is Haraj is
Im always getting downbid for 1 week at least
Until i get a reasonable bid
i saw a 1080ti for 60 dollars on bid
truly saddening
i couldn’t bag it
wait idk what listing it was
It worths 250$ here xD
NZXT is peak lmfao
Since all offers i got were around 150-180$
they fucking sent me the worst prebuilt possible
... what's "downbidding"
they bet lower then that was higher
Its offering to be accurate
bidding lower
- Tikkie -> National standard -> Safer fraud-wise but if the seller still fucks you over somehow, marketplace won't help you at all.
- GOS -> Marketplace's own system -> Easy to fraud with but marketplace will at least try to help you if something goes wrong (eg. the thing still breaks a day later or was reported as "stolen" - yes, that happens, not with GPUs but bikes n such for example).
When someone starts a big, they start low to attract people, and it gradually increases, with a typical spike when the bid is about to end
It happens alot here xD
i rma and the pc comes with dented gpu (woohoooo)
wrong RAM sticks
wrong cpu (10400f _> 11400f) i thank them for that tho
Thats why i dont trust people out of my area/providence
and the gpu they chose it so fcking good
well i guess there’s a reason for broken and dented stuff
high priority international shipping
shit gets tossed
They sent me a monitor, gpu and mouse from newegg xD
Fortunately nothing got broken
Yep, always get mesh
You may go fanless while you are at it xD
Get that giant ass noctua cooler
Its good
My PA120 SE is at 155mm xD
yeah
But without the heatpipe head
the noctua d12l is great
hot asf too
two towers at 120mm fans
but it’s 120 bucks
I got my cooler for 40$ from china
At least its working
- i ended up paying 7$ in tax too xD
You can find low profile coolers that dissipates 120-150W TDP
They are expensive af sadly (most of them)
At thier price you can just get 120mm AIO
The problem with AIO is they have lifespan
Unlike air cooling
Which doesnt have lifespan (unless you count the fan)
yeah
lmfso
i want the u9s
or the d9l
they’re expensive but seems to do good
there’s a cheap 120mm from deep cool but uh
water cooling eh
yeah lmfao
One of my friend has one that its pump gets stuck a lot
💀💀💀
He opens his pc, its running at 870Mhz (i5-10400F)
he opens any temp monitor to find it running at 100C and it’s throttling
He shakes the block a little bit, it works again
I would get giant ass aircooler that lasts longer than me
And never think about it again
yeah 💀
I also don't want to risk degradation because who knows where my CPU might end up, I don't want to screw over with the next owner. Although, my CPU is already worth less than 6600K's lmao
R5 3600's have tanked in value
They cost less than 80$ here
Around 60-70$
You can get used ones around 60-70 here as well
Meanwhile 6600K's are sold for similar money or more...
fair, then again... I am unlikely to sell mine.
Yeah makes sense, I personally don't like pushing hardware beyond the voltage/clockspeed wall they all encounter (as I say that, I run 1.5V through my RAM, but B-die can handle that easily)
but if you don't plan on selling yours, and rather use it for something else, then makes sense
yuh and in the unlikely case I am gonna sell it, I'm only gonna sell it on the local OC marketplace so people there know what they are getting into
Palit or Gainward 3060Ti?
Palit
They share the same vBIOS
They are basically the same company
Yep, its at most 76c (under very long gaming season)
At least its when my current cooler got better at dissipating heat
Before that it wasnt exceeding 70c
But my CPU was soft throttling
85-92c
Now my CPU doesnt throttle and my GPU got a lot hotter xD
I got plenty of room in my case that i have no use for
Its designed to have 5.25” bay which wasn’t implemented at all
I mean who needs 5.25” these days
Thanks to Secretlab for sponsoring today's video! Check them out at https://lmg.gg/secretlab
Tablet Guru Riley is here to check out OnePlus' first foray into the "Pad" space to see if they can deliver more than Apple's iPad, or if this is just a carbon copy.
Check out the OnePlus Pad: https://lmg.gg/stCrI
Purchases made through some store li...
THEY MAKE TVS?!
Now its stuck like that for longer than usual
Time to save for new monitor i guess?
Its back to normal, took long time tho xD
yes
The 4 exhaust fabs are PWM
in india
i am oneplus fan
why?
idk
oneplus pad is a pass for me
why? i like it
I just noticed that i have 12 fans in my system xD
but i have no need for it
i only have 5 fans in my system, all daisy linked and in PWM
3 intake, 4 exhaust, 2 CPU, 2 GPU and PSU
oh u count those?
3 intake, 2 exhaust, 1 cpu, 3 gpu, and 1 psu
My Chinese RGB fans
Are 4 daizy chained
While my 3 pin fans are just connected to the mobo using an adapter
Now i have extra one of these with me
At least i completely ditched molex (FINALLY!)
The shittest connector i ever used
Its even more frustrating than IDE cables
it don't cool
ok so ramping case fans really helps a lot
from 40% to 50%
it lengthens the time from throttling from 3 minutes to like 11
just put a fan curve on them
