#Any safe dimmers?
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
flukers 8.5 dimming dome seems to be a popular one, however you could get a regular dome and add a dimming switch to it. i use the lutron plug in dimmer switch with one of my domes for this method
LOL insomnia things
Same 
I don't know if I trust myself with the electrical task of adding a dimming switch to this zoomed dome I just got
which dome? its fairly simple i promise lol
5.5
pretty shallow
I used a 50w but honestly I think its overkill
because at 12 inches it claims to project around 95-96f
and considering the ambient of my leos tank is going to be pretty high I dont want to fry the lil guy
95 is a perfectly fine basking spot temp, i actually keep mine higher but i do have a larger tank. youll just want to monitor your ambients with some digital thermometers on the warm and cool end to make sure theyre in good range. cool end would ideally in the low-mid 70s
as for your worries on the !setup itself, we have an image that may help you understand how it works
I suddenly regret owning three leopard geckos with the space Im working with
and budget
if it ever gets to be too much, rehoming is definitely an option
yea I know
but as for a dimmer switch plug thingy the lutron plug is a safe one?
I am ok with measuring regularly to keep track of temps. I also just want to test this dhp thing out and see if it encourages my gecko to come out andeat
or just be more active
yeah i use it with my dome and halogen, have for a while now and had no issues
ok
yeah you definitely will have to keep track of things a little more frequently than if you had a dimming thermostat , however it can work on a budget
plus i dont know if this is something im going to stick with
i kinda just trust what im running with right now
no offense to you
i might just vibe with the mats because its what has worked and seemed to keep them happy so far
I certainly will look into larger enclosures when i can get the space for them lol
no offense taken, i just do my best to present the scientific reasonings behind proper care. i understand the comfortability people have with what they currently do,, change can be hard especially when you’re just learning a bunch of new care ideas that you dont fully understand
we try our best here to mimic what they experience in the wild. they dont have heat mats, carpet, and small enclosures in the wild. they have the sun (which a halogen or dhp mimic best), dirt/sand/clay mix, and all the room in the world to explore
there is a lot of misinformation in the reptile world, based on old care
our current care guidelines are what we consider “thriving” for a leopard gecko , however knowledge is always changing and we will know more as the time comes and evolve with it. leos are hardy as hell, can go through a lot of shit.. which is why a lot of people are hesitant to make upgrades to the current care we recommend because “they seem fine” or havent shown many signs of distress to the untrained eye
however i just want to note in case you missed the messages from earlier,, just be aware that with a dhp on a dimmer+ on/off will likely have the bulb have less of a lifespan, like red mentioned earlier so you may have to buy bulbs more often
dimmer will help with that a bit, but its just something some people have noticed
this may be dumb
in the meantime could i spruce up my 20L's? As in add some more natural aspects to their habitats?
I dont think I will be able to get all my leo's on a dhp
Not only cause money but as I said space
Do you need night time heating ? (Room drops below 65 f)
Naw
Are you in a state where halogens are illegal
You can use halogens then :0
Light sensitivity
Albinos in theory can have halogens as well- like with uvb it’s about giving them spaces they can cryptic bask from and have shade. :0 (I will say though from testing it mine prefer the dhps more. Even my non light sensitive one)
If you can’t get all dhps cus I know the pain of having to buy 3 LOL. It doesn’t hurt to test with proper amounts of clutter / cryptic basking opportunities
I honestly just dont think overhead basking is possible with my current setup
I kinda just ran with the info I had while making this from my friend who both owns and breeds leo's which was: heating mat, 20L, water and feed bowl, humid hide with that good ol sphagnum, and powdered calcium in lil cap (without d3 I know) and calcium with d3 dusting on foods
so now I have them setup in a spot where vertically I'm kinda at my spaces end
vertically challenged
I see q-q
I am happy that despite these short comings that I am coming to recognize my leo's are still thriving (as I mentioned in general some too much, she a big girl)
But now I feel like I am essentially torturing them 🥹
especially seeing all the fancy and detailed tanks you guys have
i personally wouldn’t consider an overweight leo as healthy or thriving in the way you mean,, for example i have an obese rehomed leo i just took in and she is going to the vet tomorrow to assure she does not have any fatty liver disease due to improper diet from her previous owner causing her to be well like she swallowed a golf ball. overweight can be dangerous as well and generally takes a lot of time to get back down. sometimes a few years
we all didnt have perfect care from the beginning! a lot of us are relatively new to this, as newer care standards evolve. i look back at the old pics of my leos first setup and just sigh
i also started off in a 20 gallon as well, it doesnt make you a bad person
Ok, so, I think I have a plan of sorts. My primary focus is going to be getting my leo's overhead heating right now and taking them off the mats. I got some really overpriced fixture and dhp, and the 50w dhp bulb I got is too strong, are there any alternatives?
I also read through the buying guide. Are these thermostats reliable? https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/
Also, probably a dumb idea, but could I use one thermostat to regulate all the separate tanks lamps?
My secondary focus is going to be providing each of them with some more natural layouts. I don't know if I can do what yall are doing with your tanks but I can certainly remove the carpet and get some natural bedding in there. With the bedding what is my safest option? I have a little leo and I reallllly dont want to impact him.
the 50w dhp is kinda known for not being the strongest bulb, a lot of people even with 20s end up getting an 80w bc of that like i said earlier. so i doubt itll be too strong. and yeah i use that thermostat for my frog. and yes you can use one thermostat to regulate all your tanks, but not this thermostat. it has one outlet. to do this, it would be from a dimming thermostat, and for that many outlets for your leos itll be a couple hundred $ for that
I was getting 101 degrees on the top of the hide rock from the 50w
cheapest option will be a 70/30 mix of organic topsoil (no additives) and washed playsand. will be about $10 or less generally. with proper care (especially heating) impaction isnt very much a huge risk. they can pass small amounts of substrate as well
how about store sold stuff? whats the safest
i assume thats only from a few inches away so that makes sense, proper thermostat regulation will help with that. in a larger tank that temp isnt much of an issue but it can be in smaller ones
those are sold in stores, like lowes/home depot,, but if you mean a reptile store then you could use reptisoil and reptisand but for 3 enclosures i wouldnt be shocked if you paid $100 for that lol
I don't have to worry about anything transferring over from something like this?https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Time-2-cu-ft-Brown-Garden-Bark/3731889
that is mulch, not topsoil
some safe !topsoil brands however most soil varies locally and youll have to check bags when you get them
cmon carl
I remember awhile back I got something that was like bedding from coconut husk shavings?
When picking a soil for your substrate mix, you want to find organic topsoil. It is worth noting that topsoil is different from potting soil.
In general, the topsoil you use should not have any additives such as fertilizers, manure or perlite/vermiculite. However, there are a select few additives such as charcoal and worm castings that are safe.
You can normally find topsoil in hardware or gardening stores, and if none is available, Reptisoil is a safe alternative.
Be aware that the soils listed in this graphic may have ingredients that vary across regions. Be sure to read the ingredients and labels to ensure they do not have any fertilizer or other harmful additives.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/917259635847737375/986308558448636024/image0-1.png.jpg
my bad LMAO
no coco fiber is extremely dusty and can be a respiratory issue, and also cannot hold burrows
THEN WHY DO THEY SELL IT WHAT
because it is not for arid setups
but many reptile branded products are extremely dangerous anyway like carpet, heat rocks, etc so its not shocking something dangerous would be sold. all in it for the money for them tbh
yea i getcha
no, some wood chips is fine in your sub but you dont want full wood chips
well topsoil typically has small wood chunks in it, which is what im referencing
you want 70/30 soil to playsand
ohhh
dude what happened to my bearded dragon info
like this was all a "no duh" thing to me when I had my bearded dragon
I got sloppy
ok, i can do that for the bedding
as for humid hides I use a plastic hide with sponges for humidity
if that makes sense
im sure you've seen it
like the ones that go in the top?
yom
yes
that with a lil bit of sphagnum that i dampen
your typing makes me afraid
that I have made a mistake
ive recommended them to someone that has a leo with a possible neuro issue and eats paper towels/sub and from my understanding it works. i generally prefer a humid hide to be humid on the ground as well as i find that to help with shedding, especially around the toes. so yeah some moss on the bottom as well would work if you already have those hides
ok good
lol sorry , i generally type slow LOL sorry if its scary
no you're good I was just like oh shit I fucked up for a second
ok good that I have something to work with
could you reword this for me again
Im a lil confused
I can use one thermostat with probe to regulate all three lamps?
not with that thermostat no
oh ok
you would need a fancy dimming thermostat and those cost a could hundred for that many outlets
so, plugging a splitter into that one thermostat would be a no no
fire death and destruction
yeah i personally wouldnt
you also only have one probe LOL
youd need 3, which you cant do
if you wanted one thermostat youd need something like this
jesus
dude im dumb
ok so 3 of those thermostats per tank then
the one i asked about not the 400 dollar ones
yea, a dimming stat will definitely be cheaper in the long run with the amount of bulbs youll have to go through especially w this method not being the greatest for a dhp ,, but for now what youve got planned works
yeah one thermostat per tank if thats what you meant
whats the best method for keep dhp bulbs from pooping
a fancy dimming thermostat
400 dollar one?
there are cheaper ones like the exo terra dimming stat, but those youll need one per tank as its one outlet im pretty sure
i have a herpstat on my dhp and its been running for like 2 years no problem
using a dimmer switch on your on/off will help like ive said but its not the greatest, even on halogens like i use with that method
the on and off is the one I asked about right
yes
yes kinda like a rave if you have heat w a light.. which u dont want LOL, and with an added dimmer it will lessen the amount of flickering
which helps with bulb longevity but it will not be as effective as a dimming stat in itself with longevity
oh ok
so in that case I might just have to caveman it and use a manual dimmer
and just measure
without a thermostat?
yea because that thermostat just turns the power on and off as it gets hot
which i can see why that would kill your bulb
not with an added dimmer no, it will only flicker probably a few times a day
you always want a thermostat. just having a dimmer can be dangerous as it doesnt take into account ambient room temperature changes, if your room changes even one degree higher it can alter your basking temps
having a thermostat stops this from occurring as they take the ambient temperatures into account
are you prepared for Picasso levels of drawing
this is what im understanding
thermostat on/off goes into power splitter...thing. That goes to dimming cord. That cord goes to lamp.
dome plugs into dimmer, dimmer plugs into thermostat, thermostat plugs into timer.. or plugs into wall if you dont have a timer.. and if you do then timer plugs into wall
If I don't have the outlets for it could I use a power strip
yeah, i use timers with multiple outlets
and is the dimmer just there to hopefully save the bulbs life span?
yeah pretty much, and will make it more effective for stable basking temps as the source isnt just on and off constantly
I think I'm just confused as to what dimming does or doesnt do for the thermostat
ohh
wait so the dimmer switch essentially allows you to tweak with the output and edit how much heat you are giving
that stuff too
yeah
if you want a crazy long text blurb on thermostat types and how they work from our lovely carl i can give that lol
LOL thats why i asked beforehand
5am here so i would not be able to comprehend a huge text block
Ok so to summarize and leave you alone (thank you btw for everything).
Ill need:
- 3 dimmer switches at about 5-6 dollars a piece.
- 3 on and off thermostats at about 17 dollars a piece.
- I have no idea how much playsand is but I remember bedding being not that insane plus these are 20L I'm filling so it couldn't be as bad as filling my 40 gal. But 70 recommended topsoil/30 play sand.
- I'm going to return the 5.5 dome fixture I just bought and get a cheaper one. I also have an old 8.something deep dome from my 40 gal tank that should function fine. and one more dome as well.
- Probably two 50w dhp's and one halogen (could I just run with dhp's since I understand them even though Gremlin doesn't need light sensitive bulbs?)
- Future remodeling materials (logs, fake plants, new hides, all that good stuff).
halogens are cheaper (and better heaters) so if a dhp isnt required for a leo then thatd be better tbh
What wattage am I looking at for a 20L?
but yeah sounds good, and the substrate is relatively cheap. i spend about $8 in total for a 40 gallon and still have leftover sand
for a halogen you could probably get a 50 but a 75 would dim down as well, just would need dimmed a bit further
i use a 60w on my 40 gal and it works fine so id imagine a 50 would be fine for a 20
Alright. I'm going to see what parts I can get for cheap from a local reptile place and such
This is probably going to take a bit to save up for. I know what I have now isn't perfect but would it suffice?
Well its been like a year I've had them like this so I guess its not too bad just not ideal
yeah, rn id say most urgently would be to replace the carpet with some paper towels. they harbor bacteria and can snag teeth/nails
like i said leos can go through some shit lol so theyll be alright while you save up, its not the end of the world
ah ok gothcu
whats the dimmer switch thingy you use again?
trying to record everything down for future purcahsing
no problem
I'm going to ignore my classwork now and crash
me too honestly LOL
bro I have a revised paper proposal with working annotated bibliography coming up and I don't even have all my sources or a solid thesis
then I have to write a critical analysis paper for a primary source
while learning fucking spanish
ahhhhh
i have 5 weeks of work to do as i have done none of my work for my course LOL … just gonna not do that rn
dude is that like an overarching project that you've had to do?
how can you still turn that stuff in
some college professors are lenient and will let you turn in work as long as its by a set date
that's nice of em
I cant keep pushing stuff like this off because this class is a capstone required for me to graduate
I'm at the end but I've never been more exhausted and looking for ways to bypass work
no same lol, ive hit my limit with school (kinda funny since i have education degrees) and dont plan on doing more after this class
I'm trying to credential
except a herpetology course or smth
that would be fun
I'm not looking forward to California's mandated single subject credentialing program
just so I can read lesson plans
oh interesting i wasnt aware of that there
yea, the time you give up in classes to become qualified to teach GE (a job that is hardly paying well for most teachers nationwide) is equal to the time you spend earning a master's in most colleges
here in cali
yeah ik it’s different over there, my partner and i both have edu degrees and they live in ca, i do not.. i dislike the way they run some edu things there lol
it's pretty appalling
especially considering that a majority of calis school districts rank so far down on the nations totem pole of decent schools
yeah its really sad :/ here i can make 27 an hour (iirc) just subbing long term, which is what i plan to do because of the pay. but my partner wouldnt make close over there
very saddening
i mean thats not even good pay i think its like less than 35k a year lol but i currently make $11 so.. ill take it
my goal is to afford a studio man
which may be possible on 32 an hour??
theoretically
I found some places for 1500-1800
nice
which is theoretically possible on 32. Partime on 32 a week is around 800. Bi weekly 1600
monthly 3200
assuming I get 32, assuming weekly is 28- 32 hours
you cant handle a carl text blurb but you can do extreme math at this hour LOL
me too me too
its the best drug sometimes
Btw if you struggle with spacing issues I highly, highly suggest getting a shelf if you can rearrange some things to fit it
A lot of people use them in order to maximize on the space that they have. My apartment is absolutely tiny but I'm able to fit Bongo's 40 gallon in on the shelf.
@mystic isle how close would you have a tank that's above another to a heating lamp below itM
?
I'm trying to figure out how much space I should give between my tanks
not quite sure i understand the question bc i mean if there is a shelf then it doesn’t really matter
do you mean how big a lamp fixture is?
because thats dependent on the one you buy which means youll just look at the measurements
nvm nvm
@mystic isle hi faith, sorry to keep bugging you
i am here hello
you said a 5.5 dome is ok for a 50 w halogen
5.5 domes do work but they can suck with ambients as the heat isnt as dispersed, so 8.5 is preferred,, but if you have limited shelf space and need a 5.5 then thats fine, just make sure your temps are alright and all
I found some on an amazing sale at petco
Do you trust flukers?
This one in particular
people do use flukers domes yes, this one seems fine it has a ceramic socket and all so thats good. just be aware that if the 50w somehow doesnt get hot enough do not go over 75w as thats all this dome can handle
and that's ok, I feel even if it's not as great with the ambient I have not only the heating mats for the really cold nights here in Cali but the ambient should be fine because it's hella hot all year round
and for sure. I'd be shocked if I need something more than 75w but I won't push it past that
yeah i do fine with 60w in a larger enclosure and honestly considering moving down to 50 next bulb i need lol so should be alright
ok thank you
https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-turtle-tuff-splashproof-halogen-lamp-50-watts
So my local shop ran out of normal halogens but they had this one, is this a safe use for Leo's?
@mystic isle
i havent used or thought ab them much but i cant really think of an issue for them so i assume its fine. i looked back at the messages in here and i see another qa saying theyre fine too to another person. you could always order reptile branded ones online tho, california is odd w halogens and it has to be reptile branded ones
ok, i suppose itll be fine because they are all bound to burn out sometime sooner or later
very open , i would add more clutter. things like cork, sticks, foliage, etc
I will
I'm just setting up the basics
I think I have some fake plants I can set up but I'll have to get some more from my local reptile store
Is the topper to sand ratio ok?
if you stick your finger in it and it holds its shape, then yeah
thats kinda how we base it lol
ok, I put it right below the epicenter of the basking spot
I turned the dimmer to full just to see what it's highest temp and then I'll adjust from there
dude Gannon is fucking so confused with the new bedding lol
I might get rid of the thermostats and just use a manual dimmer selection
Because after plugging the lamp into the dimmer switch and directly into the wall, no rav
Also these thermostats are horribly off. Heat gun says 91, thermostat says 83
you have to adjust your probe yeah, but a thermostat is definitely required
sorry ive been working, but sometimes it just requires moving it around on the spot to see which placement is best. however if you dont have like a basking rock or anything like that, it may be part of the issue. different materials absorb and hold heat differently
might not see a full bask, leos are notorious for cryptic basking, which is sticking a leg, head, tail out into their heat or uvb
yeah
lots of times leos come out after lights off to absorb heat on the basking surface, like they would in the wild. but proper warm side ambient temps also help with digestion
oh ok
for cold nights I can use those heatmaps as backups? do they work with the bedding?
heat mats dont work through substrate no, if temps drop below 65 at night it’s recommended to use a deep heat projector
could ceramic emitters be ok?
I have a few extra's
and dhp's are reaaally expensive
they dont produce deep tissue heating so its not ideal,, if you regularly have nights that dip below 65 in your house you could just use dhps as your primary heating then
ohh ok
@mystic isle you said things like ecoearth is a no go right
yea its dusty and can cause respiratory issues as well as not good for burrows
ah oki
so this stuff right
and whats the ratio for play sand to reptisoil
my geckos are going to hate me for switching up their homes so quickly but im going to try and make a run tomorrow to fix this because
i cant stand fertilizer 
oh hell yea
