#Dodge caravan overheating
274 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
And it just doesn’t wanna take coolant down the radiator quickly, I’ve just been pouring it in the reservoir and waiting for it to suck coolant out of there the n refill it
a
You'll probably have to bleed it while the car is running
I've worked on about nine billion 3.6s and that's what I've done every time
Gotcha
Turn the heat on full blast and go until air stops coming out
Well I’ll try it I guess, but I’ve opened the bleeder valve when the cars hot in idle and the radiator just keeps pouring out coolant
Wait so you have bled it?
Yeah
i was just making sure
Yes, the thermostat comes with the bleeder valve on the housing
What brand thermostat did you buy
You have to buy the whole housing on this system not just the thermostat
did the coolant look like one of these
yeh thats orange coolant
So zeta, there’s no way the coolant sludged up?
Orange is correct in these is it not?
Yes
Should be fine
yep
Ok so most likely I need to bleed it more
Did you get a solid stream of coolant out of the bleeder
Orange Coolant is OAT, prestone universal can be mixed with OAT
And you say keep the hot air on until there’s no hot air? And yes after it bubbled it did stream
you did use 50/50, right? or you mixed concentrate with water?
Well when I tried to flush it with prestone I used distilled and drained it. I didn’t use 50 50
Can we rule out a blown head gasket or no?
if you were having overheating issues due to a blown head gasket you'd be seeing white smoke, and disappearing coolant
Does the cooling system pressurize quickly
Gotcha, wdym pressurize? If you asking if the coolant rises out of the radiator, it does quickly
immediately after turning the engine on?
And like I said previously I’m relying on the reservoir sucking coolant and filling the reservoir
Well idk about immediately, but after a few minutes
wait
After a few minutes is normal
the 2019 reservoir isnt pressurized
if you had a blown head gasket it would be overflowing the reservoir
Gotcha
at least, if it was blown into a coolant passage
It’s not good to rely on filling the reservoir right?
If you fill the radiator and cap it as soon as the thermostat opens and it starts trying to dump coolant then it should be fine
It doesn’t do that, every 5 minutes I have to keep adding coolant, it only takes a handful of coolant every time
well then keep adding coolant
Wait I misread that
and make sure to cut it 50/50 with distilled water
It says do not add water
So why should I add distilled
Yeah I added distilled when I used the coolant flush, whenever I filled it with the prestone coolant I don’t add water
Confused, why did you tell me to add distilled
coolant comes in two forms, referred to as concentrate and 50/50
I read this and thought you meant you bought concentrate
Ohhh no I bought prestone coolant flush
i c
yeh just add a little coolant at a time once the thermostat opens and it keeps burping air
Sounds good, it just seems repetitive and seems like it doesn’t want to take coolant cause it takes it very slowly
some cars just do, unfortunately
So that’s normal is what I assume
it can be a pain in the ass
Gotcha, well thanks, my Chrysler 200 gave me no problems whatsoever when I changed the thermostat
The thing that sucks is I had to replace the whole housing at one point which was like 150 and the thermostat was like 10 bucks, in this case the whole housing and thermostat is like 27 bucks
@upper hollow I have a vacuum
Pump, what other tools do I need to put coolant in the system faster
@vast brook ngl I think the head gasket is blown
The reservoir filled up higher when I just drove it and coolant is leaking
That is not optimal
Do a block test
You can get the tool for like $15
That is suboptimal
ngl dude, id take it to a shop. coolant flushes and leak detection dont tend to be all that much
Cause I did it when the car was too warm
It wasn’t necessarily overheating but it was in the middle of the gauge
Doesn’t it just have to detect the fumes to turn yellow?
Well this is the only car in the house rn, my car is down
And the guy I always go to isn’t accepting any cars rn, I’m gonna drain the oil and check it today
if you keep over heating it, you will do a lot of damage
you need to find that leak
It hasn’t been overheating I’ve had the heat on so it dissipates the air
And wdym by leak, I’m not sure it’s leaking
you said before it had a leak no?
Well there was coolant deep in the engine but I was thinking it might of sprayed back
Like when the tank overflowed
if theres coolant in the resevoir it will atleast be partially in the engine, air is in the system, it really shouldnt be causing this much issue, all you should have to do is run the car with heat on max and just top up the coolant as it goes down from the radiator then resevoir
if not there is an issue else where
did you have these issues before chaning the thermostat?
Yeah that’s the thing someone said it takes so long to to bleed it but I’ve had this going on for like a week now that I drained the coolant properly this time, and no
how cheap are these thermostats?
Autozone, 21 bucks
are you sure you fitted the thermostat correctly?
Yeah, there’s not much you can do wrong with this one, I followed the way that the last thermostat was on there, it was the whole housing I had to replace, also, I lost that pinching hose clamp so I just put a different hose clamp on there
and the housing isnt leaking?
Don’t think so, I’ll check later
I replaced it with the second hose clamp
It’s like wtf it’s just a thermostat and it led to all these problems
yea it should be fine, after checking that hold the upper radiator hose after cold start. it might take a while but the upper hose should get hot very quickly not gradually. might be a defective new part
thermostats are put often just before the engine so all the air then has to get sucked through the engine and out the other side to bleed screw
Well I would absolutely hope so, you can’t really check if the thermostat is opening can you, the only indicator is if the hose is hot but that doesn’t guarentee it right?
I really have my doubts about the head gasket
its fairly guaranteed, if the hose is very slowly coming up to temp it means its leaking coolant through.
you would of had to horrendously overheated the engine to kill a head gasket at 45k miles
the boiling coolant is a dead obvious sign there is air in the coolant or the thermostat isnt opening
When you drain the oil and you get oil with no coolant will that guarantee a good head gasket
Gotcha
its not guarenteed but odds are yes because when a coolant passage blows it tends to blow out to an oil passage too
So really my best option is to maybe replace the thermostat again? And if it doesn’t work take it to a shop? Or shop first
Sounds good, mind if I ask, are you a mechanic?
yes engine swaps, rebuilds, mapping etc ive seen most parts of the buisiness
Sweet, I’d like to get into it but I’ve got really bad sciatica, shoot nerve pain down to the foot. I wouldn’t ever be a mechanic for a while tho
what are you doing exactly when you bleed it?
So yesterday for example, I opened the bleeder valve which didn’t bubble at first, but I kept it open as I drove to the store and a couple miles more and came back home, closed it after
Well I did cause I thought it would get Hella air out as the thermostat would open
bleeding the cooling system is done with the car idling
and you sitting over the engine bay topping up fluids as they go down
Yeah well when the cars in idle the coolant just flows up
thats because the thermostat is closed
you need to stay there until car reaches op temp
Well even at regular temps it still flows up
it will do bc air is in the system
I guess I could try a new thermostat, all things are leading to that but I had good luck with autozone
Ok
you have a spill proof funnel kit right?
No, unfortunately
Random, do you have a dope tool box set up? can I see it?
Good deal isn’t it?
I do at the shop but my home kit is just this
yes, just make sure you clean it after each use, dont want oil and coolant mixing
Yeah
You did, well the last time I tried, the bleeder didn’t bubble, I damn near need that funnel
Huh
yea, you can do without but you have to sit there and constantly top it up other wise it sucks air in
and its also very messy
Not working with too much
thats plenty for small work
Yeah
It is, I plan on going really big, I’ve got a garage that’s huge, people mistake it for a house but it’s so so overfilled, I’m also about to move so there’s like no point to clean it up
I’ve got a beautiful 1959 fleetside Apache that I’ve always wanted to work on in that garage
Gonna get this one instead, do these caps look like they fit dodge, Chrysler oil reservoirs or whatever you call it
open rad cap, resevoir and gently crack bleed screw
top up coolant with engine off until it arrives out bleed screw
close bleed screw
start engine with heat on max.
watch fluids dont let them get low.
because you have so much air id shut the car off every 3 mins and crack bleed screw with engine off just to burp it as it comes up to temp.
after doing that 3 or 4 times wait for it to reach normal temp by running it again.
when it reaches normal temp, engine off and burp the bleed line until the coolant stream that comes from it is a stream not stuttering.
close screw
run car for 5 mins and watch if levels go down, if they do engine off and bleed screw again, if not take it for a 5 min drive pull over and check resevoir level
when you drive make sure everything is closed
^hand written guide of what i would do just to help if the video dont make sense
thats good, main thing just to keep in mind is the only way you will suck air in is by running the car with the bleed screw cracked or running car with the fluid low in the rad top up. so just make sure to shut engine off when cracking bleed screw
and make sure dont run top off dry
Cool
@pseudo moat so I got the funnel, however the car didn’t wanna take coolant, I guess the thermostat didn’t open up but the gauge line was right before the middle so I would of thought it opened up but ig not
I thinking of taking the thermostat out and pouring boiling hot water on it to open it, at least 190 degrees f
That is another good test
@pseudo moat I tested it on the old thermostat and it opened up as it should, it was working, now I think the problem wasn’t ever the thermostat
The car actually has 59,000 miles on it
I'm lazy to read, what have you already inspected
Good thermostat, replaced it, seems to be fine on coolant however coolant in the reservoir gets low randomly, it’s been about a 3 week problem
I don’t feel like it could be the water pump cause the cars at 59000 miles, got it from the dealership
Cooling fans?
Cooling fan clutch or
Brushed motor
It would be funny if the Polarity were reversed shooting air out the grill
Don’t even know honestly, I have an above average understanding of engines but compared to a mechanic I don’t know much
Haven’t heard of the cooling fan clutch or brushed motor
Let me bring the service chart on that issue
Also I just used the code reader and the code still pops up on the car but on the reader it says 0 dtc
Definitely, i got it from autozone and it was the complete housing so you almost can’t install it wrong
Oem or just generic
hmm idk if you can view the freeze frame on your side of the end
Just generic duralast motorad
So kinda confused, what should I try first
Well my assumption was it was fully radiating towards the engine past the thermostat
Im thinking the water pump is fucked
It's not the water pump if its pressurising as you described
You bled the system properly yet?
Yes I did, I got the funnel but that didn’t even help, I guess the air was already bled out
I brought it to an actual mechanic and he thought so, I’m really thinking it is that
I filled up the funnel with coolant and the radiator wasn’t taking it, the car was idled and just under the middle mark, besides, the bleeder valve only shoots out a solid stream of coolant and no bubbles
Check for leaks by the weep hole, when you say "shoots" is it consistent and high pressure? Crack the bleed valve on cold start that will tell you if you have pressure or not. Any weird noises? Normally water pump failures are quite noisy.
It shot out consistently
And didn’t really check for weird noises, having issues with the brackets for the water pump not lining up for the bolt holes
So I replaced the water pump, still have to bleed the system well but in the process I broke the ground strap, u think I’ll be alright to drive it for a bit
just get a wire to replace the ground strap
Fs
So now it’s running too cold
How big of a problem is it and what are possible fixes
thermostat is fucked lol not that complicated
I don’t know about that, the thermostat that I put it wasn’t stuck open or anything
aftermarket thermostats on these engines are unfortunately not to be trusted, you want 5184570AK
I put the oem thermostat back in
It works ok
Thermostat rationality code is a requirement for all 3.6 pentastars
What does that mean lol
Oh I see lol, fuck these engines
Oh it's the code they throw for a bad thermostat
Idk why I didn't see this earlier
All good
Idk maybe the thermostat is stuck open or some shit but it’s not reaching temps
Fuck it at this point
Had a case on a jeep where they replaced the thermostat with a generic one, customer was pissed off when they were quoted with a replacement of the oem part supposedly thinking new part means good and should be considered crossed out of possibilities
So I saw that the code was relative to heat so I replaced the thermostat and it led to this mess lmao
So the thermostat they replaced was no good? Wdym
And they were pissed for being quoted with a new oem thermostat?
Customer took it to another shop, they put a generic one on, check engine comes up, surprised with another one.
So im getting into fixing cars much more, I’ve done a lot of shit on cars but wanna get better and do more, any recommendations on certain things I should try to fix to get better? @spice scarab
I see
I'd read manuals on every car out there, but at the same time work on them by trial and error as anything will humble you
For sure, I felt like an idot when fixing this thermostat, replaced the old one with a new one that broke lol and it didn’t work so I did the water pump
Turns out the code was calling for car not getting to temp so did all that work for nothing haha
Thinking of doing a timing chain next
That's a big jump
Yeah well i have a bit of experience
Not with the chain but I’ve done plenty of other things b4
A chain is not a small job
And if you mess it up the engine is toast
Do you really think it needs done?
Well on my own Chrysler 200 it’s at 130,000 miles
GG @jagged delta, you just advanced to level 12! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
Is it slapping?
Or throwing timing codes?
No
Isn’t it recommended at 100,000 miles
I regularly see 3.6s with factory chains at 200000+ miles