Hey Ryan, I had a honda before and had some similar limp issues. Is this an R18 motor? If so, go ahead and check a black plastic tube like piece behind your air box and inspect for cracks. This is a common issue with 9th gen hondas. If it isn't that, let me know. As far as the gas smell, you could have some flooded cylinders, possibly because of a misfire that wasnt reported to the ECU. Clear codes and take it for a drive again, then scan.
#2012 Honda civic
15 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I used chat gbt and it told me the evap purge cylinder could be bad
I tried checking by spraying starter fluid on all the hoses and see if rpm’s go higher and it didn’t but also maybe I didn’t spray alll the ones I needed to
Ok, woah. Lot to unpack here. Number one, chat gpt is not a reliable source for information, and number two, I don’t know where you heard about that trick with the starter fluid, but that’s quite dangerous.
First of all, it’s a good idea to get that code scanned by a scan tool and seeing if it can provide you with any extra information, as well as the diagnostic specifics.
Did you check the air neck intake tube to see if it was cracked? That would be one common fix that would either solve it or be one less possible guess for this issue.
It was cracked and I did replace it the one that goes from the throttle body to air box
Yup. That's the one. When did you do that?
I did it like a month and a week or so ago and the code still comes up
I just took it to Honda and they said they see the code but cat find anything they want to charge 250 for a smoke test and they did a visual inspection on the lines and nothing but I reset the codes by the battery so I can drive and it’s not doing anything besides just show that it’s a stored code
I have to wait for it to come back on to show the and it’s honestly irritating because no one can find the issue
The starter fluid trick has been used forever bruh
It has yet to become a flamethrower for me
I had Honda tell me to buy the map sensor from them because a aftermarket map sensor won’t always work especially with Honda
Fuck that dude. Do a hard reset, cheapest thing first. Disconnect your battery from the positive and negative and touch them together, disconnected from the battery, for 30 seconds or so. Your Ecu will reset, and possibly fix itself if you repaired the hardware.
Once you do that, drive it around for like 30-50 miles, if it’s not in limp mode when you drive it after the reset