2006 Honda CR-V SE 4WD k24a1

[worn geyser]

So ....I need to know how fucked I am. I went to replace the injectors, #4 had a misfire, disconnected everything, made sure they were tight, went to start up, motor struggled, and then the harness to the alternator just started billowing Dash still lights up, but it won't crank. The dash lights go haywire when I try. ECU and computers communicate with the OBD2 scanner. Check engine light comes on and then goes away when I'm on accessory power. On accessory power, radio comes on, speakers work, ac work, my power port works. Any ideas? 2006 Honda CR-V SE 4wd

[storm meadow]

Looks like you might be a few thousand down the hole. Expect the worst and try and rebuild the engine.

[proven basin]

Billowing like you shorted something? What would have caused that when just changing injectors?

Did you purchased the correct injectors?

[sharp narwhal]

Have you made sure you didnt almost kill the battery?

[forest dragon]

Do you have a video

[worn geyser]

Almost yeah

[worn geyser]

Yes. And it was only #4 that was misfiring

[worn geyser]

No

[latent folio]

This almost sounds like a power wire is shorting out. A video will be helpful to identify the source of the smoke

[proven basin]

For sure

For a big gauge like wire to get that hot would mean a large amount of current.

[worn geyser]

@latent folio @proven basin unfortunately its stuck at work. I'm home already

Had ZERO chance to post earlier

[proven basin]

Did the did the engine start at all?

After you installed the injectors

[worn geyser]

Started ok, but then started to misfire

Ran fine for like 5 seconds. As soon as it started to misfire I shut it off

[proven basin]

So when during this process that the wire started to billow?

[worn geyser]

After I reseated the injectors after the misfire.

I did try to reset the code with an obd2, even unplugged the battery and plugged it back in before starting.

Everything was fine till I went to restart

It still powers on, battery tested fine, no more codes rn

Though I didn't start it so the no codes may not be accurate

[proven basin]

So you installed the new injectors. Go to start the car and the wire starts tomelt?

[worn geyser]

Only the alternator harness.

I have a harness from the positive terminal that goes to the alternator and another that goes to everything else. Only the alternator one melted

[proven basin]

The one from the battery to the alternator?

[worn geyser]

(not my battery, but it works. Red burnt up, green is ok)

[granite latch]

GG @worn geyser, you just advanced to level 8! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

[proven basin]

Is it possible that your alternator has a dead shirt?

Try disconnecting the alternator from the battery and start the car and see what happens

[worn geyser]

To do so I need to remove the power steering pump completely

[proven basin]

No no

[proven basin]

Unplug the wire going to the battery from the alternator

The connection at the battery.

[worn geyser]

Both harnesses are crimped into the same connector

[proven basin]

You know what your right

I remember that now on this car

Cut it

I’m kidding, best bet is to disconnect it at the alternator then and see

[worn geyser]

Yeah

Which involves removing pump. What sucks is Honda quoted me $2100 for a new alternator and $450 for install. (Don't worry, I called them "Fucking crazy and out of your mind". )

[proven basin]

450 for an install sounds about right

2100 for an alternator though.. LMAO

[worn geyser]

Agreed

$450 is honestly a STEAL for the amount of work.

But I guess they get their money with the alternator

[proven basin]

It is a lot of work. This job.

[worn geyser]

It was $1350 for refurb oem

[proven basin]

I wouldn’t pay 450, I would do it my self. But that’s just me being cheap.

[worn geyser]

I would do it myself, if I knew how to do the power steering

[proven basin]

Do you think you can get to the cable on the alternator?

[worn geyser]

Idk honestly. It's TIGHT

Last time I did an alternator was on a 2005 Honda Accord v6 j30

[proven basin]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2006,cr-v,2.4l+l4,1432627,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Good prices on rock auto for Denso and AcDelco

[worn geyser]

Oh, trust me

I know rock auto. But I'm going Oriellys more than likely

Or ebay a H-O alternator. And get a big three cable kot

[proven basin]

This is not the first time I’ve hear of an issue with the charging system on this model of CRV

[worn geyser]

What sucks is it drove just fine to work this morning

And all my accessories still work fine

[worn geyser]

But it definitely sounds like it might be the alternator?

[proven basin]

Your just adding things to the story lol

You didn’t say it was drivable

[worn geyser]

It was drivable BEFORE I did the work

[proven basin]

You sound like your speaking present tense so that’s why it was confusing.

[worn geyser]

Sorry

[proven basin]

I can’t say it is the alternator for sure, however, since the cable going to the alternator was getting hot, I would assume there is an issue at the alternator.

[worn geyser]

But yeah, dash still lights up and accessories work after the incident

[proven basin]

Just some diagnosing needed that is all. I would unplug the cable at the alternator and run the car if that is possible.

[worn geyser]

👍

[proven basin]

Keep us posted 🙂

[worn geyser]

What sucks too is I got a 400w audio amp delivered today

But I definitely will

[worn geyser]

@proven basin

[worn geyser]

There's the culprit

[proven basin]

Oh for sure. Looks like a dead short…

[proven basin]

Wait is it shorting out on the frame of the starter?

[worn geyser]

YEP

[worn geyser]

That's what it looks like

[proven basin]

See if you can move the wire away from the starter and try to start it

[sharp narwhal]

Got some electrical tape?

[proven basin]

Then you will know for a fact that it is the issue.

The harness you need is expensive and not easy to route since it does split off at the positive terminal of the battery.

However, we can definitely figure out a way to splice replace that cable going to the starter.

[worn geyser]

I was just gonna junkyard

Starter for $40, harness for $30

[proven basin]

Replacing the harness in it’s entirety is a lot of work but if you can buy a harness from a junkyard for 30 bucks and clean it up I would do it

Rip the old plastic covering and all and rewrap it in new electrical tape and/or insulation tape

[worn geyser]

That's where I'm about to go rn

[proven basin]

Take pictures let me know

[worn geyser]

@proven basin old one

[proven basin]

Yeah that’s the ticket

[proven basin]

That armature is cooked

[worn geyser]

Got starter and harness from junkyard for $90 with warranty

[proven basin]

That armature is cooked

[proven basin]

That’s awesome!

[worn geyser]

Got the whole harness from the starter all the way to the battery too

[proven basin]

Post some pictures?

[worn geyser]

Harness goes from the battery to both the fuse box and the starter

I got the WHOLE thing

[proven basin]

Nice!

I would do some TLC to the harness before connecting it. Maybe install some new cable wrap and electrical tape?

[worn geyser]

I'm definitely gonna tape around the more accident prone areas....like the starter connector 😂😂😂

I got a whole roll in the car from my planning on installing an audio amplifier

[sharp narwhal]

You know not to run the power wire and RCA next to eachother right?

[worn geyser]

Yeah. Electrical interference

[worn geyser]

@sharp narwhal

[proven basin]

?

[worn geyser]

BCM not reading

[proven basin]

There is a BCM fuse, maybe when the starter overloaded and shorted, it popped that fuse..

[worn geyser]

I'll check it tomorrow. I went home

[proven basin]

Of course no worries.

[proven basin]

https://youtu.be/pIxVuEQ0xd0?si=TkWzbTxv6jCF52GZ

Might help and be good infomatiom

But the BCM fuse may be in the dash fuse box

[worn geyser]

I checked ignition, fuel, and the alternator fuse. All are good

Idk about the BCM/ECU fuses

[worn geyser]

So no BCM/ECU fuses/relays? Interesting

[proven basin]

Oh snap did you pop the main 50 amp?

[proven basin]

Or what ever the rating is

[worn geyser]

Main fuse box is fine

Under dash fuses are fine

[proven basin]

Did you install the new starter and harness?

[worn geyser]

Yes

[proven basin]

And it won’t start still?

You sure you connected the harness correctly?

In the connector does it seem like any of the pins are damaged or corroded? Part for part with the harness?

[worn geyser]

Nope

Rn were thinking faulty injectors cause starter engages

We're thinking the injectors either aren't firing or aren't firing enough fuel

[worn geyser]

Gonna hit up injector dynamics and see what they can do for me

[proven basin]

The likely hood that all four injectors failed is not likely.

You can test this, take an injector out and try to start the car. It should spray fuel uniformly

[worn geyser]

I just wish I could find someone to tune, but no one will touch due to being drive by wire

[worn geyser]

Got it to start with cyl 4 injector unplugged, plugged it back in, still ran. But misfired and threw codes for the intake runner manifold valve

So ...progress

[proven basin]

Man I hope nothing burnted up…

What codes are they throwing? Can you post them?

[worn geyser]

P1077

Intake manifold runner valve stuck/short

[worn geyser]

^

[worn geyser]

Knock sensor

[proven basin]

Did this pop before?

[worn geyser]

No

[granite latch]

GG @worn geyser, you just advanced to level 9! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

[worn geyser]

I did change the knock sensor, but I wonder if my misfire/multiple attempts to cranks did something

The .65 is at around 2.5k to 3k rpm too