#C7 stringray mods
245 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
there's usually a lot of potential left on the table just from road conditions and the driver.
take a few track days and some coaching lessons, you'll find that you're leaving a lot on the table as is.
there's also a fair bit of performance to be had just in maintenance, good tires and proper brake pads.
once you're really pushing it suspension, wheels and a tune can bring out more performance but without a solid foundation they won't add much if anything at all.
there's also weight reduction which is quite common however that usually comes with cost and a worse quality of life when just driving around, exception being if you're a big fella and loose weight on yourself.
Im not really lookin to make it a track car, more as like a nice street performance to race other ppl in. Ive heard that my engine (lt1) cant really handle any boost and more so just bolt ons. I understand that me driving and roads matter a lot, however i feel like ive done everything i can as a driver to maximize performance along side also driving safely. I still feel slow and left behind when doing pulls.
everything I said is with the street in mind, if I wanted to suggest for track I'd say stuff like fixed buckets, cage, aero, carbon ceramic brakes, slicks or track tires so on so forth.
adding boost is also a big job, lots of time and money.
what sorta cars are you doing pulls against and in what situations do you feel slow?
So ive been asked to race a couple cars
M4 comp g82, hell cats, z06s
Mustnags 5.0s and overall just wanna be faster than a z06
Also audis too like the a4, rs7 etc
I just feel like i got something to prove as if im a v6 mopar in a group of v8s
so boosted cars with a lot of straight line performance.
I wouldn't use other cars as a metric for your own speed though, unless you're actively compeeting on track it's meaningless and dangerous.
you have nothing to prove, just enjoy your car
Im not lookin to sc or turbo, maybe just boltons and a stage
I got funds and id say im a decently safe driver, i just wanna know if its possible to reach 700 to 750 hp w no boost
@sinful rapids you was gonna build your C6 for power on N/A wasn't you?
get in here and be active in the community for once
Ive heard that some boosted lt1s can blow up or have transmission problems, so kinda wanted to avoid the pricy road
U mentioned about weight to power ratio, is there a calculator for that or a chart i can reference to see like my weight to power ratio compared to other cars?
GG @lethal bison, you just advanced to level 4! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
you just take your current weight and divide it by your power or vise versa.
HP per KG/LBS or LBS/KG per HP
my car for example is 1000KG, has 67HP so 1000/67 is roughly 15KG per 1 HP
Ahh i see
pretty much yea
I am unsure if a lt1 can handle 800hp on stock internals. A quick google indicates fuel system runs out at 600hp and internals at 700hp. Trying to push as much power out of stock components is not reliable and you are only setting yourself up for component failure.
The whole premice of you wanting your car to be faster than a m4/hellcat... is hard to be sympatetic to. It is all a dong messuring contest and there will always be a car thats faster. A c7 is in the disavantage anyway since its manual and rwd and will always loose a dragrace based on grip and shift times when you enter the 500hp+ relm.
Build the car properly or let it be with some basic bolt ons.
Does it prove that its fast? Like if i put a car thats 15kg/h to a 12kg/h will the 12kg win for sure? Or is that flawedv
Im honestly not keen on the lt platform since all ive ever had are ls motors.
If you want your car to be at all reliable then dont mod it. 800whp from an NA motor is pretty insane especially on an aluminum block. That kind of power NA is more for much stronger iron blocks.
Besides that, idk what transmission you’re running but with that much torque I wouldnt expect it to be reliable either
very flawed
If I were you I’d cam it and be done with it
I am planning on upgrading my fuel pump, and mostly doin rolls rather than digs
On an LS3 its like a 50-100whp bump depending on cam specs and thats perfectly fine with stock internals on aluminum blocks
Understoof thanks
The manual transmissions are also perfectly capable of that much more torque
They use the same transmissions as BMWs right?
Ls platform bettes use the t56 idk abt c7s
if we're talking digs then tire and driver skill matters a lot.
weight can help especially once you hook however has little meaning at higher speeds and no meaning on top speed.
rolling it'll be largely getting a good powerband and sticking in it
Ignore the check mark, is this doable?
T56 should be capable of 600lb ft no problem and I doubt they downgraded the transmission for the c7
Yes
How much is it to upgrade my engine
Several thousand dollars
Would it be better to just get a crate motor?
don't 2step, really bad for the engine and to my knowledge something usually done in turbocharged cars
2 step is so cool tho
Oh but also if you delay the timing and are 2 stepping, you might ruin that valved exhaust you want to install
Why would you want 2setp in a naturaly asperated car?
Plz ignore the weird stuff, is the performance parts realistic without having to engine swap?
Shoot big ahh flames ofc
it is cool under the right conditions, so is doing a fat burnout when launching.
doesn't mean it's a good idea XD
Ok got it, no 2 step
I heard its for launch control
Definitely the better idea if you want it to be reliable
2 step on its own is fine
2 stwp for launch control is fine
I thought you wanted to blow flames
I did
In an NA car its just a secondary rev limiter. But since NA cars have instant power you might as well mash the throttle on clutch dump.
2 stepping without delaying timing is perfectly fine but it wont blow flames
I was lookin at maybe getting 3 maps and the possibility of changing them on the fly: flame/pop tune, performance tune and quiet tune
You dont need tunes for that
One performance tune is fine, and a valved exhaust will control how loud your car is
Crackle/pop 🤮
What about like a stage 2 tune?
That means nothing
I reckon if we're talking a drag build that's street driven we should get Bsteg in here or Kawasaki, maybe invite this guy to the dragy server?
That is a buzzword that can mean anything. A marketing term
Yeah i know, but i thought it was just cool showpff kinda thing
Thats why its 🤮
You can do this with a timing module but again its going to hurt your car
Hahaha sorryc i wont be using it often dw
What wont hurt your car is burbles tho
Burbles hurts the car?
Burbles will happen naturally
Burbles belong in the stomach
I like them
I see ok, awesome
You can even get plenty of burbles on a stock tune with just a new muffler and a resonator delete
Na car with 2step
So just a stage 2 should be fine, with valved exhaust system
Its sick for shooting flames
What about flames?
big V8 burbles can be fine, me and BSSB are used to small Euroboxes with burbles... it's nasty
No flames without hurting your motor
In what way does it hurt the motor?
Rather see a 1,6l 4 banger shooting flames than a c7
Like do i have to get a new motor after a certain amoutn of time?
civic style
Its nothing crazy, I ran insane 2step on my stock 2 liter car for 2.5 years
Also, from what im seeing, everything on my list should be fine right?
Making 2x power of stock unopened motor
Shooting flames is not great for the engine but in stock form its safe enough. When you start tuning and upping power you will get issues longterm.
Not all engines are audi engines.
Without affecting my main components too much
You delay ignition letting unignited exhaust gas into your exhaust pipes then igniting it
The first thing to go will be your catalytic converter
I dont think imma have that at all
Then after that your exhaust valves will burn
Not how it works
Very true but id hope a V8 designed to be a sports motor beats out a I4 designed to be in an econobox
Cant i change a tune on the spot?
Your also not really gonna spit much flames without being catless
The valves/cat get burnt DURING flameshooting, not after.
That will also damage your car
😭😭why is it so fragile
Well your exhaust system doesnt like backpressure
Alr no flame tune
Your engine is designed to push air thru one way
Not have air pushed thru reversed
Ahh i guess thats fair
By shooting flames you’re creating massive backpressure and your valves will get fucked
Also is ecu tuning the same thing a stage tuning?
They wont seat correctly and then boom new top end needed
Ok ill just avoid falmes unless i get shit exhaust
There is no exhaust thats meant for shooting flames
The exhaust isnt what you have to worry abt if you have no cats
The exhaust valve is a part of your engine
Stage means nothing. Its a simplified term to describe how much effort you have put in modification.
Its expensive
Okay so no flames
They have to take the heads off your motor and possibly replace the heads
Which are expensive parts
yes but no.
stage tuning is nothing but marketing, a term companies will use to advertise a set of mods which could include an ECU tune.
meanwhile an ECU tune is just a tune of things like fuel, spark and boost if you have forced induction.
can also dl timing if it's variable but otherwise it's done by physically changing the system
No flames, 2 stepping without delaying timing tho to create flames is fine albeit pointless
Got it👍👍 also is stage 3 good for daily?
Stage 3 means nothing
There is no standard that defines what stage 3 means
It can mean anything
Ok then like a tune that makes my car the most power efficient and i dont care about fuel consumption
We’d need to know what that actually entails
Is there like no defined limit/power to the different stages?
Well do you live somewhere that has easy access to e85? Not all states have e85 gas
Im in canada
^
Theres e85 like 50km away from me
Its a very nice highway drive and thats exactly where im at
Id stay away from that then
stages once again have no definition, meaning or consistency.
stage 1 could be anything from a new ait filter to a full on custom engine rebuild and stage 3 could be the exact same thing
You will be out of fuel by the time you get back from filling up
From tuning?
Again id just cam the car, get a valved exhaust, a tune, and be done with it
Oh and long tube headers
OHHH so stages isnt just the ecu part, its everything including bolt ons
GG @lethal bison, you just advanced to level 5! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
E85 burns way faster than normal gas
yea no, way to far just for fuel and you get far less range when on E85
Should i still get an e85 converter?
depends on the shop, they are pure marketing
People only tune for E85 in places where ever single station has E85
A what?
nope, not worth it
A flex fuel kit
Wait so what does tuning mean in ur sense
I assume they mean a flex fuel kit
Got it yup thats what i meant
Taking your car to a tuner and getting them to tune it on a dyno
Thats normal since north american E85 is very hit and miss.
or a street tune, harder to do but from what I've heard they're often a lot nicer and better on the streer
Whats the difference between?
Idk what a street tune is I wouldnt trust a tuner that isnt using a dyno to measure their success
Okat noted
Yeah mine pops around 480whp
How much is that in hp?
Dyno will be healthier for the engine since you can go though the entire engine map
500+
Depends on the car and setup
Damn nice
Okay so, rn, list would be, cam, headers, exhaust, dyno tune, and as much bolt ons as i can
Camshaft, KOOKS LONG TUBE HEADERS, and a valvetronic valved exhaust, dyno tune
Dont buy any long tube headers besides the ones Kooks makes
They are the best
Find a tuning shop. Say you want a 800whp to beat hellcats and let them spec a build for you.
What about ahr? I heard the long tube headers are very good
Thats what i was thinking, but i dont wanna get rippes off or scammed
Idk
Choosing preformance parts is dificult enough when you know what you are doing.
Ok ill go for kooks
They will give you a dyno sheet which measures their results
a dyno tune is done indoors on rollers.
the car is strapped down and has a simulated load as they floor it trough the whole RPM range adjusting factors as they go until they get what you want.
street tune meanwhile is plugging systems in and driving around both normally, pulls and top speed runs tuning around that.
basically one simulates real world but is far more consistent and easier to work with.
the other one is real world and less consistent making things a lot more difficult and very hit or miss
Damn
Ohh gotcha, thanks for the explanation
How to get ripped off 101
Whats a drag pack?
Do your research, learn what parts are best and only have shops do manual labor.
Don't have shops spec out everything
For 800who you’ll need more than what you want imo
Can it be trusted?
800whp is not for people like you who are uncomfortable with cars
And uncomfortable with reliability issues
Ok realistically, imma go for 700-750hp
Get this man an exhaust intake and tune and he'll be good
Not whp
That's faster than supercars btw
Most
Exhaust, long tubes, cam, and tune
What is a Stingray c7 stock hp
Just make sure whatever cam you buy doesnt need anything extra like new pushrods and stuff
Also couple more questions, is it possible to have a blackout switch behind the screen of the c7?
Nothing too aggressive basically
Thanks, noted
Whats that
Or just a thing that can turn all the lights off in a car?
Also procharger > Turbo/supercharger for the c7
I cant turn it off while driving
Like 5% less power but literally half the price
Ill keep this in mind too
Also, why not get the pushrods? Wouldnt it give more power?
Its just that it also usually entails other new valvetrain components
More money and less driveable in all likelihood
Oh ok 👌
@lethal bison are u versed with stuff like what antilag is, diffrence of turbos vs blowers, how tuning works etc
Nahh not really
Id say im still quite new the all the car stuff, i just got into cars since jan
Good Playlist
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9DMbro8HQbWR1WmcNVcqCCDtNPpZeL3E&si=iu6we1GcSL33m1KJ
Best explanation videos on YouTube imo
For more advanced stuff I rlly like MotoIQ
Today Mike debunks the old fart claim that "you need a little back pressure" in your exhaust or you're not gonna make any torque, power, etc!
READ MORE on MotoIQ.com! http://www.motoiq.com/
FOLLOW US on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/motoiq/
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Love these guys
Let's go over the costs of building an LS engine... the MotoIQ way! Mike and Martin go over the costs of a budget oriented build as well as some of the more expensive options if you want to go all out! We itemize the costs, explain the differences and outline the bare minimums.
Chapters:
0:00 - Introduction
3:26 - LS3 engine block and machin...
So much useful info
Obviously not an LS motor or building a drift engine but still very useful knowledge littered throughout
Holy hell this thread got long haha
And in the end, the OP would be far better served by posting these questions on a dedicated C7 forum...
Agreed lol
Im in china rn, the forums block on vpn
Thanks
Ahhh Gottcha, I've had trouble with sites (generally commercial entities) that block VPN as well. But never to a car forum.
I'm using Nord and getting here just fine. corvetteforum dot com
@lethal bison I can also suggest some YouTube channels for you, specifically I suggest Driving4answers and engineering explained.
