#valves
18 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I see nothing here to worry about.
okay i was just worrying about that
and you would think it’s fine if i’m suppose to that to all the valves
I'm struggling to see where your concern is.
In most instances, you want to be sure you have no raised/sharp pieces of metal within the combustion chamber as it can cause pre-ignition. Thick carbon can do the same, but again, nothing stands out here to me.
As long as you are not gouging out metal, you will be fine.
Hey now thick carbon is called free compression
I'll let others answer that, as last time I did a head was 20 years ago, and I had a full shop available to do a full rebuild.
Something like WD40 seems to be popular, and I'd use a scotch-brite 7447 along with elbow grease.
bet
If you have heads off, take it to a shop.
They can clean it up, paint it, install new valve stem seals, etc for cheap. Less labor for you.
i already have the paint
and somone said if the valve stem seals ain’t having problems don’t try and fix it
@gusty lantern And go through all of this again when one does fail? Not me!
If your yanking the springs, replace the seals. Kinda a no-brainier in the mechanicing world. Unlike that 'someone' you mentioned, you get to choose the better quality instead of cheap off fleabay garbage.
Depending on your car (you haven't stated year make model, which we ask for before posting) and what your intentions are with it, Gonzo has a sound point. While in their hands, you could request they boil the heads to clean out the all the cavities, 3 angle grind the seats and re-lap the valves.
If your car is a long term keeper like the beginning of a build, consider it.
okay so 1 i don’t have 5-600$ to do it
2 i can do it and get experience doing it for future reference