#Project Blue Lightning
250 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
here's the current mod/repair list
balance wheelsfix oil leakair and cabin filters- sound deadening
- better speakers
- bluetooth receiver/aftermarket radio
- DIY cold air intake cause why TF not
- bigger shift knob
- try to find and fit better seats
- front fog lights, (has mounting but covered)
- ~~ better high beams~~
- ~~ larger pedal faces, specifically the clutch that needs it the most.~~
What are you gonna work on first you think?
the oil leak and balancing tires are currently the top two items.
just need money for the leak and a place to balance my wheels since I can do that myself
after that it's Cabin filter, Air filter, oil filter, oil and maybe things like belt, spark plugs so on so forth
Cabin filterAir filter- Spark plugs
- ~~ oil change/filter~~
new item added to the list, passenger side window motor
Race car
I mean they did use the i10 platform for racing rally at some points in time

some added items for the car that I'll be doing.
heater core/fan(Cabin filter fixed the issue)wiper blades- wiper fluid pump
- belt
clutch(Inspected during oil leak repair, low wear)
the oil leak, clutch and probably belt I'll have a mechanic do but the rest I aim to do myself
I also had an idea for the handle that's just bare plastic, gonna see if I can find another one in the same color at a junkyard, should be fairly close if I go for that solution
first paycheck just came in and I spent about 1000 SEK on some parts.
Cabin filter, Oil filter, Oil, front and rear wiper blades, new front lights both low beam and high beam and tomorrow I pick up a air filter for the engine.
I also spent 400 SEK to get my wheels balanced, massive improvement since the last guy never balanced them to begin with though cheap tires that have been sitting a while means they're not 100% round and therefor it's not perfect... but it's good enough XD
next paycheck I'll fork over the dough to have a mechanic fix my oil leak and swap the clutch.
I'll also be giving the car a deep clean before recruiting some help from @rain sky to snap some fun photos of my shitty car that I can later add to my garage in order to flex on the haters XD
Yes
nasty ass cabin filter, replaced
that old air filter was clogged up, what max fan felt like before is barely even a lowest setting now.
AC kicks in way quicker and I'll report on heating after a quick spin
found the reason behind my radio getting no signal... Antenna is gone XD
picked up my air filter while out working and swapped it in before heading home
after a bit of driving I can with some degree of certainty say that idle is a good chunk more stable and it revs a bit more freely at high RPM.
no noticeable difference in the middle of the rev range though
@fading sierra
Let's go!
lookin sick!
cheers, once I'm on the nightshift and my next paycheck comes in I'm hoping to do some minor cosmetic fixes along with getting an oil leak fixed and a new clutch installed just as a precaution
That would definaly be a good idea haha
looking forward to following the progress too!
Work on your bean
waiting for next paycheck but plans are made
just gotta put them in motion
I did top up fluids the other day but that's about it for the time being
Imma make a trend of coming in here and just saying work on the bean
go for it
well @fading sierra
you got your wish, had a daytime running light go out on me so I needed to replace that and while I was in there I decided to swap out my low beams and high beams which I had been putting off.
the ones in there where so insanely dim and these new ones even in bright conditions make a noticable difference so that was nice.
I did also notice that I have the same light for low and high beams, all my lights are powered and controlled via a single connector and it simply changes the power going to them for high beams XD
also has a weird design where the front is covered and the light instead reflects on the edges, might look into removing that part and see how it changes the light beam, if it's an improvement and if it's legal
the red circles are all the screws I had to remove to pull the light out, there was another one further down in the engine bay but I couldn't get a good photo off it.
the light also has two plastic clips on the edge to help line it up while installed
Hell yeah
BAD NEWS EVERYBODY... well, not bad but annoying, found a tiny tiny bit of rear wheel play and suspect it's the wheel bearing so that's another thing I'll need to repair.
might get a quote to have them done at the same time as when I get my oil leak fixed and possibly a new clutch installed.
Cooked
little bit, but it's fine
If it's just the wheel bearing that is super easy and you ca. Do it yourself, different story of its the wheel bearing housing
from what I found most shops sell the whole assembly, I might be able to find just the bearing but I lack most tools needed according to guides though I could maybe improv something
Just a socket set did it for me, just for the bearing
Get some bearing grease (red) and just take it apart
I was working on an older car when I did ot however, 80s
I'll look into it, if it is a simple job I can do with basic tools then I might go for it but we'll see
ok, got a time this coming Tuesday at the mechanic to have them fix my oil leak, they're throwing in a free transmission fluid change (technically oil) which is nice and a full inspection so I'll find out if there's anything else wrong with it that I don't already know.
in the meantime I've found new trunk gas struts I'm gonna order along with a proper rear wiper (currently just cut an old front to size)
also found some radio facias in case I wanna go for an aftermarket radio but I'm researching if it's possible to just route in a Bluetooth receiver along with a new antenna into the current one cause that alone would honestly fix most of the issues I have with it.
anybody got experience on that radio front cause I have no fucking clue what I'm doing XD
for the radio antenna and Bluetooth I wanna keep it cheap, neat and I wanna avoid using the cigarette lighter socket if at all possible, never had great luck with those and mine is in an awkward spot to begin with.
replacing the whole unit is an option just one I'd prefer to not deal with due to the cost and pain in the ass that is finding a unit that ticks enough boxes
ok, it's been a while cause work but some updates.
- had the mechanic fix my oil leak, output shaft bearing was fucked as suspected.
- while having the oil leak fixed I had them replace my rear wheel bearings, also fucked.
- got my new trunk struts in, they're great. my trunk now lifts on its own and stays up instead of needing to be lifted all the way and held up lest you wack the back of your noggin.
- I tightened up my handbrake, previously I could legit drive with it fully pulled and now they fully engage and lock the car in place at roughly 60% pull.
- installed a new rear mirror, old one was somewhat busted and super in the way so I removed it since I don't use them either way but my dad and sister would complain anytime they used my car and my brother is currently using it to learn how to drive meaning having it is ideal for learning how to use it.
struts
plastic clip on each end you pop off with a screwdriver then the whole thing just slips off and the new ones just press in place.
it was legit a 3 minute job
Don't do a diy cold air intake
Good aftermarket intake filter
Or K&N if you insist. Modern air boxes aren't super restrictive.
It's mostly just for sound these days
I already did one, also this one is a hot air intake as stock but other engines got a cold air intake.
I basically just wanna replicate what other engine options got as stock
old and new filter, enjoy looking at the neglect of my car
The risk is sucking dirt into the engine and the reward is a cold air intake on a fuel injected car
It's not going to improve performance at all and the sound may be a little better?
hand brake before and after adjustments along with the linkage used to tighten it.
it was a pain in the ass to reach since I needed to remove the center console but it doesn't have enough space to be removed however I could basically lay down and reach behind to get it done slowly but surely
I'm not really doing it for either TBH, it's a 67HP Hyundai i10.
I'm using it to learn what I couldn't learn on my previous car and everything I do can be easily undone should I need to.
I can just buy the part OEM for the larger 1.2L engine and it slots right on but making it myself seems like a fun little project
Understandable
Nice
I have a 2022 Hyundai accent and my mom has a 2013 Corolla.
Good cars to work on
lastly we have my old and new rear view mirror.
the old one was cracked in the corner, massive and sat low meaning it would obstruct my view forwards.
yanked it off, popped the old holder off using a chissel... hey, it works ok and then cleaned the area up and stuck on the new one.
I kind of want to rattle can my mom's car because the Texas sun has ruined her car
No winter here so no rust but the sun just bakes everything
ChrisFix made a great video on restoring sun faded paint
There's so many rock chips there's no restoring the paint
And the clear coat is gone. I think for $300 in supplies and a few days of labor I can recoat it
For my Hyundai I've owned it since new so I always wax it with every wash
My bumpers plastic so I don't have to worry about rust. I just fill in the rock chips with some $3 eBay touch up paint
cleaning, patching and repainting is a form of restoring unless you're completely sanding it down and changing the colour
go make a #1240140641133137920 thread about it, I'm sure there'll be people who'd wanna follow along
that reminds me
@fading sierra your whenever the fuck I have time update is here!!
I'm just going to sand it down and use some spray paint. I think duplicolor makes some for the Toyota color of my mom's car
Maybe I'll primer it
go make a #1032037388811243591 thread, you're gonna want all the help you can get
Yessir
OH HELL YEAH BOIII
ok, mirror was left installed over night, it did not stick.
gonna find some better double sided tape and try again or maybe use some epoxy or similar as a worst case.
or I have a solid excuse to just not have a rear view mirror XD
Epoxy glue
I tried the YouTuber/action video trick of blowtorch to the 3M double sided tape.
we'll see if it works
update time
got my new Antenna in the mail, it's a dinky little thing but better than the broken fucker that was on there.
process of installation was to
- remove the cabin light
- remove the sun visors
- remove the sun visor slots
- pop the headliner
- work my way into a single 10mm (no I couldn't find the 10mm socket for like an hour) and undo it
- pop the old antenna off
- slot the new one in place
- redo steps backwards
the true test will be crossing the ridge heading to work tomorrow, old one would cut out before even getting there, most cars struggle when getting to the top so if I can get up the bottom while still having radio I'll consider it a W
obligatory @fading sierra ping
come get your treats XD
also fuck it @deft tapir I also have a tin can... just a significantly slower and less cool tin can
Hell yeah mate can't wait for the update
I love the whole idea of this build so much
Bro this is a fucking weapon
I approve 100%
oil change time, old filter was marked 2015 so that was a yikes.
no sparkles or sludge when draining at least so that was good.
I also had the joy of the container having a clog somewhere causing a bit of a spill.
on the bright side the car is now a good chunk more silent on the top end and a bit more silent at idle, no noticeable difference in the rest of the range though.
Time to put a 67mm turbo on it and push 14 psi 
would a procharger be acceptable?
realistically if I wanted to make a silly build for it I'd go ITB XD
You can technically go itb turbo, just with multiple turbos xD
Quad turbo Hyundai compact car would be crazy
However, with itb the turbos would all ahve to be the same size so you would have to have 4 turbos with turbo lag still. Unless you want to dual turbo each of the cylinders to get rid of turbo lag, with an octuple turbo inline 4
Probably making in the range of 200 to pistons through the hood hp
And for the pure ridiculousness of the piping setup you would have to remove the hood xD
@grim crane do that ^
if you fund me another car to daily, the tools and the parts
and a car for my sister cause she's getting the Hyundai when I upgrade
Yeah its gonna be around 10k
not even close to enough money
Yeah im talking diy ebay turbo style
update, after driving around for a bit it's significantly more quiet at the top end, more quiet then I even thought it could get at idle and a smidge more quiet trough the rev range
on account of how old the filter was I'm considering buying another thing of oil and doing another oil change early on as a way to just clean things out but it's probably excessive
Do it
No balls
I might, we'll see
Nah no turbo. Supercharger 
hell yea.
ITB could legit be an option if I had the money but I do not nor will I do that
Yeahhhh
GG @vague perch, you just advanced to level 8! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
Almost did an itb on my 300zx before revising it just sint worth the power you get from it
I have a 1.1L making 67hp that's known for leaking oil.
I don't exactly need power in this miata weight tin can
Ok but-
You could
1.1 liter if you throw a couple... like 15 grand at it could make 200 hp xD
Maybe electric one?
Way cheaper
That or just upgrade fuel system will give more power/better coils and a tune.
I think all of you are reading far to much into a unrealistic theretical that won't happen
Ok but this unrealistic theoretical is funny
that's true
maybe when I have money and time in the future I can do some actual fun project
Yeah, go buy any of the Z's
They are notorious for their great handling and aftermarket support. So they can be engine swapped and handle well and are usually pretty light
smol update, got my wind visor sooner then expected and went ahead with a quick install.
pros
- slightly less buffetting with the windows down
- a good chunk less buffetting with the windows partially down
- slightly lower noise level with the windows up
cons
- one window has a bad motor so it doesn't currently wanna go fully up with the added resistance
- the kit only had for the front so the rears still got nothing
- fingerprint and dust magnet, will require frequent cleaning
neutral
- they don't obstruct visibility
- they basically just press fit into place making for a relatively easy install and secure enough fit
I've yet to test them out at higher speeds, only went up to 90kmh on the test drive
Well thats good, I bet you get the rears replaced and a new motor on the passanger side you will get almost no outside noise
don't have any for the rear, probably not gonna bother getting any either.
window motor is on the to-do list though
Still awesome, this thing is really coming together
bit by bit yea, learning a shitload as I work on it even if it's small things or things I've done on other cars before
Oh yeah for sure, there is only so much you can learn by knowing and not doing
Did you install these using the adhesive tape of the metal clips? When I’ve used them in the past I had a set come with no clips and just used the tape and that pressed against my window making it really slow. Put in some of the metal clips to hold it in the correct place and window worked a dream afterwards
These are the clips I’m talking ab
nope, mine just press fits in but getting something like that to press in might be a good idea
Yeah it pretty much just keeps the plastic pressed flush against the inside of the door so that your window shouldn’t rub against it until that last couple cm or so
I got the passenger window fully up, yay.
also highway speed 120kmh they're a smidge less noise for windows cracked, no noticeable change fully down but a good chunk better with the windows up
so I did a little experiment with some cheap Biltema bits just as a proof of concept.
one gripe I've had with my car since I got it is that the pedal faces in particular the clutch is to small and not exactly comfortable.
solution, the cheapest aluminum and plastic pedals I could find in a store near me.
as shown in the images only 3 of the 4 screws on both the clutch and brake fit and the brake isn't completely even but it's good enough for a trial run just to see if this improves my comfort and if it doesn't anything to effect the control over my car.
first impression just sitting in the parking lot outside my home was way better, they're not as slippery as I expected even with slightly damp shoes and the larger pedal face is far nicer to press down on so I look forward to seeing how they fair on my commute and some errands after work tomorrow.
if all goes well I might modify the rubber pad to let the last screw fit in, throw on some grip tape or similar for added friction in the wet and straighten the brake out or I might invest in some slightly nicer ones that don't cost a hamburger and some pocket lint
ok, quick first drive impression.
the larger pedal face helped a good bit more than expected with comfort and made it easier to get the pedal in a good spot when quickly moving my foot over.
I did need to slightly readjust where Iv place my feet as to not catch the side of the footwell or brake on throttle but that was about it.
main con outside of how tacky it looks would be the added height, it's not much but it's enough to be noticeable and I can't move my seat any further back to compensate, I might look into moving the seat a smidge further back or more likely a more permanent and lower profile solution for the pedals to fix thia issue
Thats still awesome man, love that
Put flame stickers on it
Rice that shit
Go full blown ricer
lightning bolt
new tires installed and balanced, down from 185/60/R14 to a OEM 165/65/R14 of not garbage tires.
off the bat they're way more silent at low speed with little possibly no change at high speed.
there's a lot more grip in the wet, dry we'll see once it's dry out.
the vibration caused by an oval tire is completely gone now which is so nice and makes the ride so much smoother.
and turning in there's no longer a delay or hesitation which caught me off guard and nearly put me in the inside ditch XD, I'm assuming the old tires would roll a bit before biting and do so with minimal grip.
Amazing! I forgot how good 4 lug wheels look
le car, pre new tires
once I'm back from the UK I might go for the sound deadening, if the neighbor can find time to help me I might also do the spark plugs (I lack tools)
Go for it, dry ice is weirdly easy to get your hands on too. Youw I'll have to tear up a bunch of carpet and all the seats and whatnot but it can get rid of like 20 pounds
In some cases its like 70 pounds but idk with that little car
go for as in adding some, this car has nearly nothing
Ngl I love the center caps
Oof, yeah do that then. Im still in my manic state of ripping my Z apart
lol
TIRE UPDATE
ok, been almost 2 weeks since I came home and have been able to actually drive my car on the new tires in different conditions both warm and cold, rain and dry.
Conclusion... I now have more grip and consistency in the wet then I used to in the dry.
I can hit higher top speeds, turn in quicker and can turn faster with more consistency.
I can also play around with my brakes to induce a tiny amount of oversteer now which I couldn't do before so that's fun
Furthermore
new sparkplugs are in... old ones where slightly cooked having been in the car since it rolled off the production line end of 2008 140K KM ago.
I didn't photograph or record the process since my neighbor is actually the one who did this job for me and I mostly just helped while learning how to do it.
Idle is lower, roughly 850-900 cold as opposed to 1000-1200 of old and once warm it sits right around 750-800 instead of the old 950-1000RPM it used to sit on.
engine also seems to idle smoother and rev up smoother then before being more willing to do so however there isn't a noticeable change in actual performance.
no clue on fuel economy difference yet but old ones would sit around 7L per 100KM to work largely due to the ridge I have to cross and when just cruising around flatter roads I'd get closer to 5.5 or 6L per 100KM which is still high for this car.
I'll make another update in a week or two when I've had a few tanks of gas trough the car
Awesome! Glad to hear from you, I get scared that some projects just die
bad pics I know but I pute some sound deadening insulation pads on my hood and I'm quite surprised.
they don't really change noise level much but it made the tone of the engine darker, decreased vibration at the high end and removed a lot of the harsh noise especially at higher RPMs like highway or when revving the engine out.
surprising to me was how they behaved with temps.
after an hour on the highway the engine bay was warm, the area around the pads where warm but the bads themselves and top of the hood was cold.
took the scraps from the hood and threw them in the trunk thinking it qould do nothing because of the amount and location... I was wrong, very wrong.
I don't know how or why but they've made the car drastically more silent and removed a frankly absurd amount of high frequency road noise, happy days for me
also, found out I could fold my seats flat and now I feel stupid
This thing is going to produce negative decibels
Good, now sleep in it
already have
Based asf
slapped some sound insulation in the trunk, we'll see if it helps any or not
it did a bit for echo and road noise but honestly not much.
could have to do with that other areas have already done a lot so it's now marginal improvements
ok quick question for people who know more then me.
I'm not getting the fuel economy I'm meant to be getting, a part of this is due to my commute crossing a small but not insignificant ridge which just causes all vehicles to chug fuel and another is from less then gentle/efficient driving.
however this alone doesn't make up for the full difference so I'm wondering if it couls be mechanical and if so what?
as seen in this thread I've already done the following items that could contribute.
- oil
- oil filter
- air filter
- spark plugs
I'm also gonna be doing the belts soon.
any other ideas for things I could check and how I would check them?
Take your fuel injectors out and clean them up with isopropyl alcohol or fuel injector cleaner, thats ehat helped my cars
Put it on E85 
Dump Lucas fuel system cleaner in the tank. And drive it a lil harder
my day time running lights kept blowing which blows so I went and dropped 9 bucks on some LED ones to see if they last, hope they do cause inspection is on Thursday and if the car fails I'm fucked
first image new daytime running lights only, second image my low beams on aswell
Well done
That is awesome
Oooo yay news
Shit fuse or a short
or shit bulbs, we'll see if the LEDs work
don't got Lucas fuel cleaner but we do have Biltema fuel booster which claims to clean.
I got a bottle for 10 bucks which was good for 2 tanks.
dropped my consumption by 0.5L per 100KM while in the tank, gonna run a few more tanks with it in different ratios to see how it changes things then do a few tanks with nothing added to see if it made an actual change.
I do also need to calculate the price per 10KM with the additive VS without to see if it's worth running all the time or if it's best reserved for the occational dose
It's not a constant additive, it's used like once or twice and it breaks build up in the gas lines.
winter tires are on, cheap studded tires that have lost most of the studds.
they feel weird
Personally just buy a 500 dollar car and let it hit stuff in the winter instead of winter tires
have someone sit on the front
legally required and this is a cheap beater, tires came with it
Thats fair
snow... I'm glad to be on winter tires
it started snowing 1 maybe 2 hours before that photo.
road clearing can't keep up and 2 lane 110kmh highways have become 40-60kmh single lane roads sometimes slower
yellow warning in effect for the whole area with black ice, heavy snow and blinding blizzards
Dear lord, the entirety of east Tennessee shut down because of 5 inches of snow
this much snow this quickly isn't normal here but nothing except for maybe schools and some buss routes will shut down
my car became a plow and wasn't very happy about it XD
XD i want to put a wedge on my impala and have a snow plow basically
with weather like this I'm legit considering something like that.
I wanna give it a flat underbody at the front to help with fuel economy and road noise so adding a front edge to behave like a plow in weather like this wouldn't be a bad idea
And get those aluminum or steel underguards for road debris and aero
it's a front engine FWD tin can, once you get behind the front wheels there's nothing but a tiny exhaust and the rear suspension at the very back
Wow, dont fishtail
have some friends sit on the hood
no more understeer
ok, I got the quote from the mechanic and it'll be 9100SEK for all the work it needs done.
- timing belt
- accessory belt
- front left wheel bearing
- top bushing front suspension
also turns out the oil leak I had was the filter itself which I've never had happen before.
engine mounts and lower suspension bushings where also in good shape for being OEM and should be good for a good bit longer.
might also try to source some 13 inch used rims and a set of new studded winters for it cause I really don't like the steelies on there right now and tires are cheap for this car so investing in something proper is worth it
All that from a small ditch? Jesus new cars are week
no, the ditch only ripped off and bent my front plate
Okay good
this is all things that have been needing to be done but before ordering all the parts I decided to have them go over the whole car just to see if there was anything else to fix while they had it or if there was anything I believed it needed that it did in fact not need
oil leak for example appeared to be coming from a part that was already replaced meaning warranty work but it ended up just being a bad O-ring at the filter and the oil had ended up going a hard to see path down to where the last leak was.
and they found my front wheel bearing on the left was fucked.
otherwise it all looked as expected with the belts and bushings being shot
Ohhh okay
got my car back from the mechanic.
- suspension top bushings made it a lot more quiet and comfortable over bumps/dips and mostly removed the jerk I'd feel in the steering wheel.
- timing belt has made the engine idle and run more quietly and it seems to rev out a smidge smoother however it could be placebo.
- accessory belt still squeals when it's cold but it's not nearly as loud and it goes away a lot sooner then before.
- oil leak is fixed so yay, gonna get some more oil cause I topped it up with the last of what I had
- wheel bearing... no clue, I've yet to notice TBH
Well good shit
new floormats curtosy of the GFs family, I have no shame so I'll rock it.
not gonna do the driver one though cause winter and gravel parking at work
Floor mat is floor mat, if it covers the floor you good
I have rubber ones, the driver one is remaining rubber
these aren't fitted so they move a ton and due to winter they'd just get disgusting within a week or two if I had one for the driver side floor
yea, once or twice a week I take the rubber ones out and shake them off then when needed I might bring them inside and give them a scrub with some water.
some gravel gets under them but I just swing by my dads and clean them out with the shop vac (old vaccume that's deligated to the garage)
Cool cool
I need to do that kind of thing more often lol
I try to take care of my car because of how much time I have to spend in there and I know that if you let it get bad it becomes a pain to get clean again
I don’t care too too much about my current daily because I know I’m replacing it sooner than later
The Saturn stays spotless though
when I get a new daily the Hyundai is going to my sister so I wanna keep it in good condition
hence all the mods so far have been quality of life focused
Best rear mats I've ever seen
i10 n