2013 Corolla Engine and Suspension

[wild abyss]

Apparently I'm very unlucky with cars.
How bad do these look? How should I proceed?
several issues
Images are NOT on a lift or jacked up
Rear axle bushings:

passenger side cv axle

2ZR-FE . Leaking gasket?

[little snow]

Axle gotta go. Don’t replace the boot. I would buy a new axle.

With the year of the car, it’s not worth trying to rebuild axles that are at least 11 years old

[little snow]

Oil leak is definitely coming from the top. Hard to tell from the left photo

[wild abyss]

Yep I got it.. how urgent does it look? doesn't seem to be much grease coming out. I havent heard the clicking noise after changing:
sway link bars
tie rods
ball joints

[little snow]

It will go, it’s inevitable now.

[wild abyss]

Would a top view foto help?

[wild abyss]

Would it be a bad idea to wait for a noticeable click

[little snow]

I wouldn’t

Too dangerous.

Axles for your car are cheap

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2013,corolla,1.8l+l4,1504998,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288

About a hundred bucks and you can do both fronts

[wild abyss]

I put an OEM one in the driver side. I feel like it's probably worth it for this sort of car

What about the rear axle bushing?

My suspension feels very rough right now, but I havent got it aligned. It's extremely off alignment, like 45 degree tilted steering wheel and screeching tires off
I have my old car meanwhile so Ill just wait to get it aligned until I have tine

Only just changed rear Struts so I'm not sure if I'll notice the bushings as an issue or not

[little snow]

If you want to do that sure. I wouldn’t given the year but what ever you want fam.

[little snow]

They are cracked but it is fine. I wouldn’t stress it.

Rear struts would make the car feel way better for sure. Easy replacement too

[wild abyss]

I already changed them but I havent gotten an alignment nor broken them in so it feels horrible

[wild abyss]

forgot to mention my traction control light flipped on after the suspension work I did today. Which would be - rear struts
Ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links
anything in that area that I might have tripped by accident?

Like always thank you so much for the advice

[little snow]

Your ABS sensors go to all the wheels

Did you bump them or leave one disconnected?

Would be a cable that goes to the knuckle that reads the wheel bearing

[little snow]

You have ABS sensors at all the wheels sorry

[wild abyss]

ABS logo isnt on though

[marble loom]

GG @wild abyss, you just advanced to level 9! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

[little snow]

Your traction control reads that data

Knows when to hit the abs to slow different wheels down

[little snow]

https://youtu.be/YeXlmdlXp2s?si=GLxxQA7qMFkBnLWa

[wild abyss]

Thanks

[wild abyss]

@little snow hey, sorry to bother you do you think buying a reman CV OEM axle from Toyota would be a good idea? It's the same price as the new aftermarket ones

[little snow]

Um. It depends on what they do with the remanufactured ones but I’m assuming it would be good coming from Toyota

They probably kept the same shaft but replaced the bearings, grease and boots. Which is good since you know they would have crimped the axle clips to spec.

[wild abyss]

Thanks a lot man

[little snow]

Of course. Let us know what you do. Would love to see it on the car

[tall scroll]

i work on a lot of toyotas. i would not sugest any work on the timing cover. they all leak at that location and yours is not bad at all. there is a a sealon the chain tensioner that also can leak in that location but looks fine (3/10) on the oil leak.

[tall scroll]

this car uses the torsion bar rear end, its pretty solid. I would replace these under some circumstances. If they do a lot of off road driving, if they do a ridiculous amount of miles or if the customer complained about relevant issues like eating through tires, unable to align, clunking in the rear end, unstable driving. (4/10)

[tall scroll]

looks like the locking band slipped and now the boot can move a bit. it hasnt spit any greas out so i dont think its ripped. if you never have driven through a wheel deep puddle i would shoot some grease in there and reclamp the boot. tbh i would consider rebooting the quality toyota axle over buying any of the cheap ones. of course it depends on milage ultimately the condition. remaned are probably the smart bet.

[tall scroll]

pretty sure replacing the rear strut on this car would not cause a need for an alignment.... but the tie rods would.

[tall scroll]

I think i can clarify a bit. TC and ABS both use the wheel speed sensor, which is in the location you were working. Basically, TC will cut throttle and mess with the transmission when slip is detected while ABS pulses the brake when slip is detected. Usually a bad Wheel speed sensor on toyotas will throw a CEL and ABS light. So its plausible but not the usual conditions i see. Really you need to get a scanner on it and see what it reports.

[wild abyss]

hey man, thanks a lot

[marble loom]

GG @wild abyss, you just advanced to level 11! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

[wild abyss]

how do I get the cv axle to go into the transmission past the ring?

[wild abyss]

Ok im installing it and it still won't go past the ring, same problem as with my driver side. with that one I just pulled it in and out until it snapped all of a sudfen

does the snap ring need to be open at this angle? or just straight in parellel with the transmission?

[little snow]

Usually, open end down.

[wild abyss]

Down??? I thought everyone said at the 12 o clock position

so up

[little snow]

Not sure exactly on this car but in my experience it has been down

Try both lol

[wild abyss]

what cars have you tried? Thanks a lot I will right now

[wild abyss]

should I try with the outer end in the wheel hub?

[tall scroll]

If it’s c clipped u push it card af. Or hit it with a dead plow

[wild abyss]

should I put it in the wheel hub first then?

and should i put the other suspension parts back ball joint tie rod sway bar so it's at the right angle?

On every video they seem to do the transmission first tjats why I ask

[tall scroll]

No wheel hub side second. And the order would be axle ball joint. Tie rod sway bar axle nut. But just cus it’s easier that way not because it’s necessary for the job.

[wild abyss]

Ah fuck I got a weird question now

So I was f ing mistified as to why I couldn't fit my hex in my sway link. Looks like its warped to where It cant even go in. Is this salvageable? the bolt is a little stripped. There goes my $80 OEM sway link bar I guess

More importantly: how do I prevent this in the future? I'm not 100% sure how I even caused this

[tall scroll]

you dont need the hex to work. lots of these dont have a hex

[wild abyss]

it just spins in place without the hex

[tall scroll]

Push it from the back side into the hole Hard af while Turing the nut.some times can get it to bind enough by pushing hard af on it

[wild abyss]

I drove home with no sway link bar lol

[tall scroll]

You might have fucked the threads

[wild abyss]

And I hear whirrrr from the side I installed the passenger acle

[tall scroll]

lol

Hope it’s not the wheel bearing

[wild abyss]

yes, it's stripped too. Is my only option just changing it?

[wild abyss]

Why?

[tall scroll]

Or by a thread Chaser

[wild abyss]

What causes that sound exactly? I drove 30-35mph home 17 miles

[wild abyss]

Buy?

[tall scroll]

Cus it’s not a diy friendly

[tall scroll]

Idk something like https://www.amazon.com/BILITOOLS-9-Piece-Spindle-Rethreading-Restorer/dp/B0B8MQCDGH/ref=asc_df_B0B8MQCDGH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14198758081933817610&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9190030&hvtargid=pla-2281435179338&psc=1&mcid=18c94b62db0d35ec813a955f03a7355e&hvocijid=14198758081933817610-B0B8MQCDGH-&hvexpln=73

[wild abyss]

well all I did was put the new cv axle. didn't make any similar noise before