#Toyota Corolla 2013 buying suspension parts

33 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

pastel crane
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Can’t go wrong with MOOG and Delphi

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I wouldn’t get OEM given the car is 11 years old. Not on parts like that anyways. I think your savings is justified in the long run.

upbeat frigate
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I’m usually partial to Moog stuff, with Delphi or ac delco be a fine alternative as needed. It looks like there’s a difference based on the country of manufacture, so double check your VIN. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number#World_manufacturer_identifier

Vehicle identification number

A vehicle identification number (VIN; also called a chassis number or frame number) is a unique code, including a serial number, used by the automotive industry to identify individual motor vehicles, towed vehicles, motorcycles, scooters and mopeds, as defined by the International Organization for Standardization in ISO 3779 (content and structu...

pastel crane
upbeat frigate
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Yep, same. Moog is my go to

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OP, you can see from the parts listings if your control arms include ball joints; some do and so don’t. If not, no biggie, buy ball joints too. The control arms do include control arm bushings.

pastel crane
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My fav is definitely MEVOTECH, love that stuff

pastel crane
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I’ve never had an issue. If you want to spend a little more and know for a fact your good, go with MEVOTECH

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You can go to a parts store and rent the press needed

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I would replace the control arm as a whole though and not deal with that mess

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If you rent the press tool, you usually get your money back once you return it. But if you’re gonna do new, just put new control arms.

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Your car and your driving experience will thank you. New control arms make the car feel brand new.

pastel crane
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For aftermarket, in suspension, yes

tepid carbonBOT
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GG @floral ermine, you just advanced to level 7! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

pastel crane
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MEVOTECH does have levels of quality if you want to call it that. Just like most aftermarket parts. The best they market usually come with blue colored rubber boots

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I would recommend NOT doing your axle boots.

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The amount of work and mess is not worth it with axles at 154k.

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Either drive with them the way they are or buy new. You can easily spend 2 hours rebuilding your axle boots each axle. When it would take maybe 30 mins an axle to remove and replace with new.

pastel crane
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It’s not that I make more money than you. I just recently did it.

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Did both boots on each axle of mine for my 2013 Altima coupe

upbeat frigate
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Throwing in - unless the boot is leaking or compromised (torn, damaged, etc), I’d leave it. Easy enough to replace the CV joint when they fail, it’s not worth the headache of trying to preventatively replace a boot and grease.

pastel crane
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Especially once you take the axle off, cut the boots off, make a mess everywhere, to realize, the bearings are shot and you need new axles anyways

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At 150k miles, I would replace the axle. Even with knock off ones. RockAuto ones even

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Plus you need the tool to crimp the ties. You can get away with using pliers but you risk it not being tight enough or to tight and you rip the boot. Also, you need to take the bearing off to slip the boot on

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Your going to need at least a 2lb ball peen or sledge and someone to hold the block of wood if you don’t have a vice lol

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Throw a zip tie on it. See what that does.

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Tie rods are meant to move in that direction a little. But believe at 150k miles it’s time to replace. I’m sure there is play

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Surprised you don’t have torn boots on your ball joints

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And of course on the advice, just trying to pass my experience forward. That’s all. Love when people fix their own things

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Oh and important note. If you ever pull your axles

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Make sure you have at least ONE quart of transmission fluid as you will leak fluid from at least one side of the transmission. Just the nature of pulling axles. Always keep OEM fluid with you.