#2006 Honda CRV SE AWD k24a1 modification/tune
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2006 Honda CRV SE AWD k24a1 modification/tune
Are you in the US? If you’re having a hard time finding parts, then you must be unfamiliar with the platform.
The K24 is a very popular Honda motor with a huge following, KTUNED for example is a big one
I am new to this and I tried k-tuned, but couldn't find anything for the vehicle
Specific to the vehicle? Or to your motor set up? I think your best bet is a Honda or K series forum
People have made these motors into monsters and has put them in everything from Civics to Nissan 350Zs
So there is a ton of options and information out there.
Vehicle, I see lots of stuff for the k20 civic or the Integra
After market on the CRV is mainly custom because since it is not really a vehicle sought for in regards to performance
However it has a phenomenal AWD system that people take out of your car and put it in Civics so you can start there
Gotchya
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Ive been mainly looking for bolt-on kits as I've never done ANYTHING like this before and no local shop wants to do the custom work. They'll do the Dyno/tuning, but not the fabrication
Are you looking for a turbo kit or such?
Its a daily. But yeah you would have to find a specialty shop specific for your vehicle make or model
Just keep in mind, all of this, if you do the work or not, is very expensive. Like thousands of dollars expensive. Just food for thought
Oh I know
Got a $6k quote for turbo/tune, 5 texas hours away. I get 5mpg, that's too far
5 miles per gallon?!!!!!
What do you just leave it in first gear??
And you get 5mpg?
Roughly
Haven't done the math fully. But it's a 16 gallon tank. 100-150miles on a tank...
You should be getting 22mpg on average. You might wanna get that checked out
I used 3/4 tank going 100 miles south on the highway
Non stop traffic the whole way going 75mph
Non stop traffic? But you’re doing 75? Wut
I’m confused lol. But you need your car to get looked that. Not even a full loaded 18 wheeler gets 5mpg
Who knows he could be hauling some serious load
k20 head
Highway, and I didn't stop at all the whole way
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My guy you gotta get that looked that lol. Unless you have had mods that should not be happening
I haven't done anything except a new vvt solenoid
At 75mph my RAV4 does 33-35 mpg and my full size Subaru does like 25
And an oil change. Swapped the Ford oil filter with a k&n
Yes it does. That’s how your parking brakes work
Your lever is connected to a cable that goes to the parking shoes. That hold the drums of the rear discs
Ahh
Question, if a caliper slide pin is seized all the way out...how do I fix it. I've tried multiple hammers, wrenches, etc. I don't have a vice or c-clamps
Heat it up and see if that helps get it out
Once you get it out you can clean it and lube it back up.
Ideally you would want to get new ones but if your not in a position to replace them, just reuse them
No torch either
Looked into getting a new one. Everyone is sold out, even rock auto
New caliper in stock would be Napa. $68 remanu, $80 core
Got a new bracket ordered, delivery monday
yummy
"The Environmental Protection Agency rates it at 22 miles per gallon in the city and 27 on the highway with all-wheel drive and an automatic transmission."
Forget the turbo, you have a major issue
either you're leaking fuel like nothing else or there's something very very wrong with the vehicle.
get that looked at before you do any modifications.
assuming you get the 150 miles mentioned you're looking at 9MPG and assuming the 100 miles you're looking at 6MPG but that's still absurdly low
No fuel leak @stable yoke @rapid sequoia, no major oil leak, no lack of compression
Might be injectors, or fuel pump. Idk
Is the fuel tank crushed or something?
I'd imagine there could be any number of things.
- alignment being bad/off
- bad tires at bad pressure
- a bad tune killing fuel economy
- bad injectors or spark plugs
- driving habits
the list goes on but something is definitely wrong
As far as I'm aware, just looking at it, it wasn't tuned/modified. There is a slight camber that needs to be fixed, I don't drive this like a sports car, tire psi is @35 psi
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You can get a propane torch at Home Depot for 20-25 bucks with the attachment
Was $20 for new bracket and pins
Less headache
Agreed
Pins were available for pickup from Oriellys yesterday, but bracket arrives Monday. Picking up both tomorrow
Even then that still shouldn't be possible
Driving my 6.0 hard on the hot tune only gets down to 9.8mpg
I bet it's a manual and he just leaves it in first gear
Absolutely red lines the dog
It's automatic
Doubt it could go Texas highway speed in first
There's also no clutch pedal
woah! it didnt come with the auto clutch pedal? really?
My point is that's how I know it's an automatic
No need for sarcasm
@deep locust are your brakes dragging?
Not that I could hear
Rn waiting for new seals/boots for the caliper guide pins for the bracket as the new bracket came with grease and the new boots didn't come with the seal
Passenger side of the vehicle is still on jack stands
And honestly? The brakes were SOFT
Next maintenance project is the calipers and the battery
Brakes done
Unfortunately my brakes won't stop the vehicle. Parking brake will...but not the brake pedal
I assume it needs a bleed and bedding in.
Did you replace the calipers or just pads and rotors?
Did you top it up with brake fluid?
Yep
Must be user error
How did you bleed them
Possible brake booster failure?
What was your bleeding process
had someone press the brake pedal 3 times, i then opened up the bleeder valve.
Keep pressing until the brake fluid comes out. Make sure to keep topping it off as well.
let it drain for a few seconds and closed it. repeated 5 times for each wheel
there was no air in the first place
never disconnected the lines from the caliper
They didn't let the pedal up while it was open right
yes
Technically there was no reason to bleed the brakes
Do they pump up or is the pedal soft
Did you top up the brake fluid?
yes
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they pump up
Does the pedal feel soft?
How to Do a Brake Fluid Flush. Learn how to do a complete brake system flush to remove all of the old, water logged brake fluid out and replace it with fresh new DOT 3 brake fluid. I show you the two person method and the one person method to bleed the brakes. I also show you how to bleed drum brakes and disc brakes as well as the correct order ...
Did it ever get below that
not that i know of
Obd2 code scan
So...update @last orchid @humble gate @orchid hill
Brakes work...kinda
They work fine if below 30mph, but any kind of real force makes it sound like they're grinding or seizing
Sounds like you need major work
Either it is not bled properly or something is not working as it should
@deep locust did you bed them in and did any brake fluid get onto the pads or rotors?
bedding in deposits some brake pad material evenly over the rotor.
doing it improperly or not doing it can fuck your brakes and so can break fluid getting on there
Never heard of that
Brake fluid yes, the bedding no
I've never done that in my past 3 vehicles. And honestly, I've never had this much issue before. Granted I usually replace the calipers too when I do a brake job for the first time
It’s more of a thing to do when you have coated rotors, I’m sure your rotors are fine. But why do you replace the calipers? Do they get too rusted?
I usually just replace them since they have to come off the hub anyways. And it's usually cheaper on shipping to get the whole kit
And idk what condition the calipers are in, like this one had the seized guide pin.
Just take everything out, replace everything. One less point of failure. Also, my go to kit, the Power Stop z26 needs the caliper for them so...