#Brakes
116 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Those brakes look pretty worn.
The discs are quite rusted. You need to replace the pads when replacing the discs.
Good news is, brakes are generally easy. Do pads and rotors all around and you’ll be set for a while.
The brakes should be good for a while yeah?
I was told by a former mechanic the pads should last 12 months.
How long do you think until I need to replace everything, Prob would have to do the drum brakes too then, yeah?
Yes, at least 12 months on a set of pads, unless you’re driving on a track or you bought $20 pads 😆. That said, your pads appear to have some material left on them but your rotors are shot. Just do them all at once (pads and both rotors) and you won’t need to think about it. Shop around your local parts stores (including doing their websites for in store pickup) someone is always running a promo for a discount with pads and rotors.
Get the front dealt with, then after that’s settled, pull one of your rear wheels and the drum to see what shape those are in. Same math applies for the rear.
Drum brakes don’t perform well but they do last, so it’s entirely possible they are ok and you may only need front.
I have a bit of work I gotta get done, so money is short rn. If i was to hold off on brakes how long before I 100% have to get them done.
How far do you drive per day? You have probably a few thousand miles on those
But really, this is a <$150 job. Do it yourself and save the money.
Im on my learners, but when I get my Ps ill only drive to and from work, shops and gym. So not very much.
Mechanic quoted me 1,500 AUD for the brakes.
Prob do the front myself, ill try and take a look at the rear but.
Got other work I gotta get done before I can do the brakes
Timing belt is 10 years old, overdue for replacement.
Got ya. Yeah, save 90% of that money and do the front brakes yourself when the time comes. Great DIY project! Drum brakes are a different animal haha
So you say 2-3k before brakes and rotors are done? That's about 4800 km
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Yeah. Mind you, that’s just a visual estimate. If the steering wheel shakes when you hit the brakes, it’s time. And if you start hearing squealing or grinding, it’s time.
Haven't heard or felt those, car feels great.
Only once did I hear a squeak or squeal from the brakes, but that was ages ago haven't heard it since.
If any of those happen ill just replace them.
I mean, I've seen pads go in 2 months and I've seen pads last 4-6 years so I'd doubt a number like that unless the old pads where worn out and he knew when they was replaced last
Had a guy look at the car, He said the pads should last 6-12 months.
Went to another mechanic, they said my rear brakes have about 30% left, asked him what that means and he said in about a week my brakes will fail???
So far youve gotten a few opinions on here and opinions from two mechanics. It’s possible you’re putting too much thought into the question of “how long with they last.” I recognize you got quoted a number with a comma in it and you’re on a limited budget. But do you have tools and any appetite to do them yourself?
You need like 3 different sockets and an impact, joshyr34 also says a torque wrench
I have a 1/2 ratchet set planning on buying a torque wrench
Nope, for a brake job you really only need a torque wrench, ratchet, and a brake piston depressor. Impact you can swap out for a ratchet on a stick or a beaker imo
But you need a torque wrench for caliper torque. Pretty important imo
Pretty easy through I think you could do it @clever latch
For the rotors, drums are a bit more annoying for beginners if you have drums also
I use a scewdriver and an old brakepad to press the piston back. I have a even more stupid friend who opens the bleeder to make pushing it easier and bleeds the brakes afterwards.
You will also need copper grease and loctite
Dont forget the slide pin greese.
Copper will work there i guess. But there is a special greese.
I would be scared about it slipping and hitting a boot. A brake depressor is only like $15
Copper is the special no stick grease. I did also forget to mention the slider grease
Last time i used a depressor it got caught in the boot and almost ripped it.
How the fuck did you do that
How is that even possible
Ohh so your boot was sticking out a shit ton? Never had that happen on one of my jobs
The off angle made the plate on the tool spin and made the boot look like a rose.
Idk what type you had, sounding like it was a ratcheting one (which I have never used) so it could easily be a bad tool. I have only used this style
We also spent 1h hotwiring the electronic handbrake. When we finally got the calliper off we realized that the triple square required to get the calliper bracket off was lost. So we spent 3h taking stuff apart only to put it back as it was.
Caulk gun looking ass.
This is a handy one for the rear calipers that have nubs that you need to twist the piston in
I usually use c clamp for regular calipers but am wary of rear calipers that have to be twisted in
I honestly dont know what i have used. I just know that i got it done and i did not use a tool.
I thought the same until my 03 silverados didn't budge with a 1/2 impact
My rear are drums yeah
So i also need copper based lubricant, silicone paste and do I need thread lock??
I also have a knocking noise coming from the rear when slowing down, I got the car inspected and they said its coming from the rear shocks, I was told they aren't leaking so thats good. I also have to replace the bump stops, could those being so broken/missing cause the knocking noise? or should I just replace the rear shocks?
Always just use antisieze copper or nickel. Since I never have the right grease lol
Rear struts are pretty cheap and straight forward. I would replace them
I found some on ebay for like 75 bucks
Prob just replace em
Uhm, I was told conflicting stories on my timing belt, it was last replaced 10 years ago, but some guy who been helping me on the car said it still has 30k km left. I saw online and the manual says to replace every 90k or 6 years. Should I just replace it or is it safe to wait a little longer?
Had some issues buying parts that fit for some reason 🤷
Description says it is compatable based on what I was given on the car, year and everything seems to be correct, Ebay says it doesnt fit..
When it comes to the timing belt, and you’re not sure, it’s best just to do it, especially if this is an interference motor.
Alright, ill prob let a mechanic do that one.
Since I heard if I stuff up its like 5k in repairs
Works the best
IMO, ratcheting and turn ones seem slower and with this one they seem to apply the force more proportionally. I have never had a problem with it
Weak impact
I don’t even use my impact on my wheels though. Only my breaker bar and my torque wrench usually. Easier than bringing my mini compressor around front to my driveway. I only bring it out when there is a very stubborn bolt or nut that won’t budge or I can’t fit my breaker bar in.
Rarely do I use my impact, but it is a good tool to have when you are doing suspension and frame modifications and need to get bolts off fast and don’t wanna risk stripping them. The impact action is very nice to have.
My compressor died:( can't use my air impacts older then me
I use a small husky diaphragm for my impact. If that’s all you need you should be able to find a cheap one. Pretty sure most impacts are only around 90psi anyways and don’t need a lot of cfm
Nevermind I had a brain fart, so do you have the weird style ones like Hyundai? Cause ya, you need a twist style one then and can’t use the “caulking” style anyways.
I remember a buddy of mine had to use this thing on his pistons (called a cube or something) seems like you have an individual piece kit which is nice.
The cubes can apparently shatter, so you got a nice kit (if that is what it is made for)
Ya I don’t want to scratch up my pistons or my boot so I am gonna skip out on that sadly. What I have at home works way better imo too.
If yours were straight up push too, not sure if this kit was meant for your piston type. Could be reason why you had trouble as it looks like a twist style similar to Hyundai’s and others. Could be wrong though, don’t see much vw brakes.
It's a square shaft screw driver. You use the side and it meshes with the piston like the funny cube. The tip is also usually dull enough to not damage the rubber if you tried.
Interesting, I just like to use the proper tool though. But if you find a way to do the job and it works well, u do u. I just don’t wanna fall down the red neck path
Having access to a shop full of tools is a luxury. You have to improvise if your only car is on jackstands becasue you are working on it and the closest tool store is a 30min drive away.
Been looking all over the internet, cant find any springs for my drum brakes....
Was told I should replace the springs too, yet I cant find any
What year is it?
😦
2005
Tis true
Ehhh springs still might be decent
Correct me if im wrong. But doesnt the brake shoes come with new springs?
Nah
Just found these on ebay after so much scrolling....
That should be the rest of what I need?
Drums, Shoes, Cylinders and springs.
It says parking kit on the listing, dunno if thats the same springs I need though.
ya u do
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There’s your hardware kit. Nice find!
So those springs are all I need for the drum brakes?
Saw somewhere I needed little clips and some brake adjuster?
Or would I use the ones currently in the brakes, just replace the springs.
Either the it comes with the brakes or like the adjuster should never need to be changed
When you reverse it adjusts automatically
Looked everywhere on Ebay, cant find that rear brake adjuster thing. Only those springs above.
Got the springs, drums, brake shoes and the cylinders. That is everything I need for rear brakes yeah?
Shouldnt need to replace anything else?
That should do it. Take lots of pictures as you’re taking things apart, so you can put it all back together correctly
Alright thank you.