general questions about my car

[sly elm]

I have a 2002 mustang gt with the 4.6 2v motor. I just had it rebuilt and the motor now only has 1130 miles on it. I did the first oil change on the car at 500 miles (the break in oil) should there still be metal in the oil in the next oil change? I have a few more questions after after the first 1 is answered

[sly elm]

?

[hasty cargo]

You really only get metal in your sump with new pistons or rods

Did you put in new pistons or rods, what was the rebuild?

Or was it just rings and bearings

[sly elm]

@hasty cargo everything was replaced from piston and rods to rings and bearings from the ground up I got it rebuilt there isn’t a used part on the motor except for my headers ,throttle body and injectors

So like for example my mechanic told me for the first 500-1k miles I needed to take it easy let the car break in then do a oil change and I’m good to go but I did the break in oil change at 500 miles and like he said the oil was flakey but I’m wondering when I do my next oil change when I reach 1500-2k miles. Should it still be flakey since it’s a new motor essentially or would that indicate a problem

I blew up rod bearing number 8 in January so the whole motor needed to be rebuilt

[hasty cargo]

What is the build of the pistons and rods

Oem or aftermarket materials? Cast, forged, billet?

Crank get replaced too? Need more information

If it is cast the break in should be quicker to my knowledge as cast expands more fluently with the engine block through temperatures. If it is something other than cast it will take longer. Break in though can take a decent bit of time sometimes. Make sure to run a really good oil like liqui moly and the thickest grade that a tuner recommends for your engine or an oil additive like Lucas that increases lubrication. At the end of the day, it is up to your builder. They should have a warranty placement, and so I would follow what they think is best.

[hasty cargo]

If it is small flakes, should be completely fine

[sly elm]

It’s all stock again so whatever the stock materials were made out of and the crank was replaced along with everything absolutely nothing inside of the motor was reused besides the block itself

[hasty cargo]

Takes a while for particles to completely cycle out of the block

It will take a few oil changes for sure

[sly elm]

Ya it’s all very very tiny flakes like shavings from the machine shop type flakes not chunks lol

[sly elm]

The car dose feel faster to a degree but I need to get it tuned and figure out why it’s running on the lean side

[hasty cargo]

Ya that’s fine, you will see that for a few changes as when you do a change, u won’t remove all the oil as some passages will trap some oil and hence some of the metal particles

I would recommend a flush near the end of the year or sooner just to get as much out as possible when u want

[sly elm]

Sounds good to me. The motor only has 1250miles on it right now but what would be the next thing I should do to the motor to increase hp? Should I do a cam or just jump balls deep and get a kenn bell supercharger to toss on the motor

[hasty cargo]

I would ask a tuner or a supplier what cams would work best with what type of boost you want and do boost and cams at the same time.

[sly elm]

The ken bell website says the supercharger can be tossed onto the stock block and internals to make upwards of 500 hp with a tune so I was unsure if I should just go for it and try that or also do cams and such with it

And if I bought a sequential shifter for the t5 manual transmission that’s in it would it be worth it?

[next spruce]

I like to do my first oil change after a few hours of running, then again around 100 miles. If there's still shavings after the second I'll run it about 100 more miles and change the oil again. Totally possible that there's still lots of new bearing/piston/ring material in the oil, you should have changed the oil sooner