Just bought a turbo for my truck. I picked it up for 150 and it has been sitting for a while. I’m planning on rebuilding it and selling it or just slap it in my truck. It’s an ITS turbo. Need help identifying more info for it.
#2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3
413 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
i wouldnt just "slap" a turbo on your truck... theres a lot of stuff needed like a big intercooler, somewhere to mount it, pressurized oil, etc
I know that there is more then just slapping it on. This is just my first time doing something more then simple things like Coils, injectors, plugs and other engine mods besides a tune for better drive ability. Also before i do anything im getting a transmission that can handle 400-700 horse. even though i plan on keeping it below 500. Just need advice on how to get it done and what kits i can find for it. Since ITS is no longer a operational company finding componets are hard since i don't know what im looking at or if they might even fit.
Can you run boost safely? What is your CPR
Do you know if your turbo can handle the power you want? Also did you check if you have to drill ur block for lines?
Also remember you gotta upgrade ur cooling and oiling system
New valve-train too with new cams also
ideally I'm sending this to a performance shop once i get a proper trans and drivetrain components in. Or i will buy a standalone engine and build that from the ground up myself. I just wanna know what i may be getting myself into if i go for it.
Ur getting yourself into an alt + ctrl + delete on your bank account
As with pretty much any engine rebuild. I can attest to that
If you are gonna go down that path. Start with getting a different turbo lol
The one you have rn will probably blow up
I would honestly go twin. You will have a better equal exhaust flow
Especially since it is a V
u do, the 5.3 uses a filter on the upper oilpan so you can either drill into the pan gallery (horrible idea), the cooler (bad idea too) or the block, also a bad idea
its only a good idea if u have an external oil filter housing/cooler
How much do you think I could sell it for? Bought it from a friend for 150 and it was working before he took it off his truck.
4 packs of beer or something
Yep
Plus with a new bore, new valve-train instal, porting, and assembly of the bottom end this guy is looking at 4-5k (CAD) in labour alone
I heard aftermarket Chevy shizz is hella cheap compared to other engines. So at least he will probably only be paying 2k CAD for a complete bottom end parts, and 2k CAD for the top.
And for exhaust and turbo setup, he could go eBay crap and pay only 1-1.5k cad or go with proper shizz and spend 3-4K CAD. Idk about wiring (coils, and ecu, etc) I am gonna assume 3k CAD on that cause I would get a different ecu. For injectors. Like 600 Cad.
So like 15k CAD on the engine, will probably come out to 20k in the end though. Not bad. Way cheaper than my 2.5L 😂
Swear it’s gonna be like 25-30k in the end or some bullshit for mine 💀
@rough lotus Didn’t think you ask for an estimate, but here ya go. Obviously left out some shit like the oil pump upgrade and some other stuff. But it’s a rough estimate of the engine rebuild.
you can literally throw a procharger on a 5.3 stock and just keep the stock rev limiter and be atl like 500 wheel with e85, they are great engines but they are not turbo engines
Ya but to keep it reliable? Also I build for pump gas, premium. E85 is cheating, but if you want hp as soon as possible it works, can’t tell you how long ur bottom end will hold it though on stock.
Also a turbo is a lot different than a centrifugal supercharger. A supercharger will match revs and be safer on high cpr engines.
If you running a turbo you need to change ur cpr
Also u need low cpr to run a dece bit a boost. Idk if you can run much on the stock NA cpr u got
honesty e85 in texas is pump almost everywhere, 91 tunes are great too, procharger i havent seen any reliablility issues
as in comrpession ratio? u can keep stock stroke and bore just the 5.3 dont like the turbos to begin with
Ya cause it matches with revs. With a turbo it’s a different story
Yes, exactly. If you go turbo. U need to change the cpr
ya i mean people run stock compression ratio on the 5.3 with a turbo and it will last
Piston ring clearances?
but actually making a fast car its not the best
Over time it will run into problems for sure
wym by ring clearances
compression rings usually have no issues on port
di and boost yes
With boost ring clearances should be adjusted differently, especially end gaps.
i mean u can
usually 5.3 guys run stock block til they hit 650 wheel
That is why I would run different pistons for the long run: proper clearances, larger bore, and low cpr. It will run more reliable and last way longer
And civic buddies put practically Home Depot clay type cement in their blocks to make it closed deck. Doesn’t mean it’s the right way to do things or the way to make it reliable
i mean 5.3 is already pretty low cpr... blowby isnt bad until ur at like 20 pounds and u can make 650 on 15 pounds on the 5.3 on 91 and cam
Just because it works, doesn’t mean it’s the right way to do things or that it will last. U can by proper filler to make blocks closed deck.
He wants like 700hp
To 800
That is a full rebuild
Or no, idk. I would still build it so it runs reliable at 500whp. If he wants to go the supercharger route. I would still at least put in a new valve train and pistons. In the long run the ring clearances will not age well. Plus lower cpr, means it can run super safe under boost and be reliable
i forgot this dude was even wanting to build his shit
honestly blowby aint bad til 20 lbs tho and thats true for a lot of engines, the stock internals on a 5.3 can hold 700 no issues. After that its just forged crank, rods, pistons, good full floating pins, ringset, and sleeves, cam, built heads, and ur good on internals for 2 grand in wheel horse. The 5.3 doesnt like over 6500 on the heads without building them (springs) because valves float
its already at 9.5, i wouldnt ever go lower. Usually u only wanna lower cpr if ur at like 12 or 13 because thats already super hot from engine compression then adding turbo compression its impossible to keep iat and motor temps cool
I mean on my piston sheet there are like over different ring gap adjustments for what ur running. So I doubt it is meant to run 20lbs.
With how cheap it is to build an engine like that, at least on the bottom end. Super cheap. A whole bottom end kit is like 2k! I would just rebuild it
what i mean is that ringset doesnt get issues with blowby until 20, n/a rings arent meant to prevent a whole ton of blowby to begin with
Man ring gap should be different. His engine is gonna run hotter. It is gonna expand and contract differently than stock, and it is also going to be under the pressure of boost
I would get the proper clearances
well ya on a turbo
Even on a supercharger
none of the ls engines run well on turbos stock block, however stick a pro or super on there and it loves that shit
they are meant to run well on linear power just like the lt engines
What is a centrifugal chargers normal boost, like 10-13lbs?
Even less is still pressure on the rings
Well that is how a centrifugal supercharger works
im aware
Also with talking about superchargers, do you need to delete ac or ps to fit it on those chassis? I am gonna run twin down the road and there ain’t proper room so I just deleted my ps and hvac. Will he have to do the same? Or is there a proper bracket and pulley kit
Those bays are pretty big I assume there is a bracket kit and no deletes needed
just depends on what u want
ive seen guys with the compressor still on em running a procharger
Ya so I assume there is a bracket and pulley kit
usually
@onyx slate @brave solar so what ya saying is that i got a cool paper weight. and that i should just go pulley driven if i want to make power out of a stock 5.3
GG @rough lotus, you just advanced to level 1! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
ya pretty much
ya pretty much
Lmfao no
No
Ya it kinda is. If he wants to go turbo he should go twin with a CPR change or go with a pro charger
Lol wtf
Ya a centrifugal supercharger is a better option imo
Turbo is cheaper and 10x better for keeping a stock engine alive
no it’s the other way around
Twins are dumb because it's added cost, harder to package, and you'll make the same power with much longer spool times
The stock engine will last longer with a centrifugal super charger
You're trying to tell that to the wrong person
The is the only advantage of any supercharger
Unless you're playing with snout driven shit
Nope; easier to setup, boost match with revs so safer on higher CPR or na engines, the engine also does not need exhaust modifications compared to a turbo.
All I can picture is the yapping cat meme
Yes
What then
This
This
Well it’s true, the boost matches with revs
So it is safer on higher cpr engines
Its kinda common knowledge lol
You'd think you'd know the common LS knowledge being that sloppy has existed for years
It’s common knowledge on all NA engines. They will perform better and safer with a supercharger because of the rev matching
Toss your turbo in the bin, diesel turbos come with too small of a turbine to work well on medium sized gas engines. Google "sloppy mechanics wiki" and go ham. Gap rings, buy a better turbo, don't waste your money on china cast manifolds, pick a good injector, and take it to a good tuner. When you decide you want more than 400whp you can move to stuff like cam/springs/pushrods
Do you have any idea what a torque spike is?
Take that "common knowledge" back to Reddit
Isn’t that what we were saying?
No, keep the single turbo plan
Exhaust pressure will be equal and you can have more boost quicker.
Go try it
I have, you're big wrong. And by the time you have a setup that spools worth a damn you lose top end
Wdym, with proper sizing u shouldn’t have a problem especially if it is properly cammed
Have you ever built something and planned on making more than, say, 400whp?
I mean my engine is in the shop rn. Being built for 650 whp
'being built' got it
I don't mind handing out info every now and then but don't be spewing wrong shit you've found from simpletons on the internet
It’s not wrong though lmao
Oki
With the proper setup twin turbo on a v8 is legit the best option imo
Is that why it takes twice as long to spool the fast twin turbo cars?
Dude twins spool faster if they are properly sized
I love it when a buddy finishes a waste of money twins build and learns that it won't build boost with the transbrake engaging second
That is the main benefit of twins, same psi, quicker spool
Two smaller turbos as opposed to a larger single
If you want the best of body worlds, then compound is a route to go too. But twin medium sized is the way I would go compared to a large single
If like lag and find it fun, hey larger diesel turbos seems fun
Okay, I'll leave you with a quiz then say you have a 320ci or so engine that will spin 7,000 rpm. Say it can use every bit of 120lb/min. Do your best to explain to me how splitting the exhaust flow will spool two turbos capable capable of a comparable 120lb/min single. Especially when the biggest factor to spool speed is air velocity, second being heat
When you're done I'll send you a link
Okay and I will leave u with a quiz. If legit the entire internet says twins is the best way to go on V oriented engine; and aftermarket crate engine builders build them in twin; why would they not use single instead
Lol most people do. Especially people who are in it competitively
It's simple. You either "size it correctly" and lose top end, or you use a bigger single and have a more efficient setup, and if you're not a moron they'll spool better than twins that will flow the same amount of air
Dude the top end amount u lose is fine compared to the amount u gain at low end. Not everyone wants to do rollers; and saying that twin is both good for track, drag and rollers.
Dude are the twins running less psi
It is not more efficient, with twins u are utilizing both exhaust gases
👍 I can't help you
Do an equal psi test
Lmfao
And I can’t help u either
You really couldn't if you wanted to
Legit the whole point. Equal psi with less spool build up
Go try to apply it in the real world
That is why twins were a huge thing in the beginning of their introduction; especially on older shitty ceramic turbos
Ya legit manufactures twin charge their vehicles from factory; and they look for efficiency lol
Dudes trying to argue this with someone who's spent thousands of hours blueprinting engines and spent thousands of hours learning about how power is made
Ever wonder why they never have a strong top end?
I could care less, from my knowledge and what I have learned. I am sticking with it
Because efficiency and bottom end.
Less lag than a larger turbo
Not if you sacrifice turbo size with the single lmfao
Then you get a really hot, useless setup. Kinda like op is planning with that diesel turbo
Still would spool faster. It will every time
20lbs of boost will come on faster on a twin setup than 20lbs of boost on a single
The smaller the turbo, the easier it is the spool
I don’t get this argument
Me, either
Don’t twins run cooler too?
To an extent. It gets to a point where they'll keep the engine bay hotter
Dude that is the stupid point. Legit different psi. What is the exhaust setup
But whatever let’s just agree to disagree
Do you have any idea what psi is measuring?
It sure as fuck doesn't seem like it. I thought I drilled it into this server enough it'd be known
I assume on the graph it is measuring the combined psi of the two as compared to the one measurement psi of the single
First off that's hp and torque
Second, do you know what the boost gauge actually measures?
Pounds per square inch. Legit a measurement what u mean by this question
So that's a no?
An engine is just an air pump. That little gauge measures the resistance of the air flow going through the pump.
You can have the same exact setup, same manifolds and all, change turbos, and see an extra 2-5psi without even touching the tune. Efficiency is real
There is no psi to psi comparison, with any turbos
Well u have your mass air flow which is used on NA and boosted (dude I ain’t stupid, I know how a compressor works). Then you have your boost pressure sensor on boosted engines for the account of the added pressure
Alright it's over your head
How
Tracking the psi on the intake manifold with a sensor for a match in psi
Also a blowoff valve
I’m legit keeping it as a nice center piece on my shelf rn. 150 for a working turbo isn’t something imma cry about. Plus posted it on Craigslist and fb market currently got a few offers for 300 bucks.
Take one of those offers, they're not worth that much
I can see cause brand new is 500-600
Also a pro charger would be better if I were to throw long travel sus on my truck.
dude this just shows u know nothing aboeut engines or forced induction... turbochargers dont take longer to spool with a twin setup, ur thinking of a compound setup. And also turbo is way less reliable on the 5.3 setup. And people do indeed run stock block to the 600's of whp\
if you're talking about a compound turbski setup ur right... but a standard 70 +70 twin setup is fine
@cinder spindle @onyx slate ur both right and wrong, on a single bank engine, with a single exhaust manifold going to a turbo, yes a single is more efficient. On a twin bank engine, you should have 1 turbo per bank OR a twin scroll turbo
Dat what I was saying, ish
I'd love to see you try to touch 600whp without gapping rings. Tells me you haven't built shit. And are you really going to sit there and type absolutely mouth diarrhea like "hrr drr, you ackually meen compounds, compounds take longer to spool than a single apparently." There's proof above for your ignorant ass to check out.
... if u have to throw a ringset in a 5.3 to hit 600 wheel, u havent built SHIT dude... and I said with a pro or supercharger... they hate turbos, most ohv engines do. Blowby aint bad til around 650/7 with a supercharger on stock block 5.3. Now the LT engines, those will take anything. I like LT more because you just throw port on em and their golden. And oh please, use your brain if you have one. Compound takes WAY longer to spool than a single, its the same principle as having a shorter charger pipe going from the compressor to the intercooler and then from the intercooler to the intake plenum... shorter is way better in this case.
"they hate turbos" he says. Go cure your ignorance. Fucking dumbass is really talking about "blow by isn't that bad until around 650/700" when he doesn't even know what the fuck the ring gap is for
@barren sigil you should pin this
Forum pins no
But it's such a perfect ignorant comment
No u need to change the clearance, the engine will have a different expansion due to added heat and is also under more pressure from boost. But I agree with you on the turbo aspects
If you wanna prove me wrong find more charts and an actual article than the first image off ur google search
That image is as close to perfect you can get. Two combos that carry roughly the same top end, you can see where each started to build boost and make power.
But as far as hunting for articles, I'm already annoyed so you can do your own research now that you have a bone
I don’t care if you are so certain on your opinion that twin is greater than single there should be a majority of articles in ur direction
What’s the the picture
And now you're backwards
Nope (oops ya right, ya other way around)
Just one of the hundreds of projects I've put together, mostly LS
Single I assume, was it a fox body? I can’t remember
Yes
That cars never been on a dyno but it's taken 1000cc and 1500cc injectors to 90%
And you were building a cage for it too right
Probably around 1000-1100whp
That car is waiting to be dropped off at a chassis shop for a 25.2 cert, then I'll chase 6s with it
Let me test my knowledge on this one. Ring gaps expanded to much right?
In the picture
Yes, that was a maybe 500whp setup
With a 25 top and 23 bottom
Ring ends touched and removed the tops of every single piston
I think by hate turbos he was talking about low boost setups. More easy to control boost with a supercharger than a turbo on stock block aspects
Would never run the number he is saying you can run though.
Boost isn't much of a problem, torque spikes from superchargers kill stuff easier
Torque spikes kill the majority of engine like this
U can get boost to match with revs more equally though on a supercharger and have it build up more linear than that of a turbo
1: it doesn't matter with an auto, turbo I'll always be better
2: when you're rowing through gears with a blower setup you get a torque spike every single time you get back into load
Ya but the a charger will match the engines power band
So?
That’s the whole point of why it is safer to run one
Does your leaf blower need to match your shoes?
This again
Why would you want to lose boost when you drop 1,000 rpm?
Ur missing the point, this is NA engines we are talking about with a +s
Dude it is safer to run a charger on a NA engine than a turbo
I want all 40psi at 3500, as well as 7000
No what? Bro it does matter.
High cpr and lower cpr engines are different. With higher the cpr it is better to run a linear setup
Again, I'll refer you to the sloppy wiki. Good luck
That is why most +boost kits for NA engines are supercharged and have more boost than their turbo counterparts. The boost is linear so you can have a higher boost output.
For the love of God spend an hour today and try to understand what boost is a measurement of
Dude it is safer having high boost at high rpm than it kicking in at a medium rpm. I will stand on that. It way easier to control that on a supercharger
As it is linear
To the engines power band
It’s not a “so?”
Legit every single article says the same my guy lol
🤣
Just believe it then I guess. If you ever work your way up to something fast you'll probably learn eventually
Shitty argument, so I guess when I get my engine back I will somehow get ur mindset? No doesn’t work like that
Nah, you probably won't learn it with your engine/project
Then why bring it up
That the last thing you plan on having someone build you?
Hey dude I don’t have a machine shop tools. I ain’t using a dremel to port either
Lol
I did as much as I could. But machining and assembly I ain’t doing. Parts grabbing and planning is all I can do there.
Anyways tell me then how having a linear boost is stupid or something
"planning" then asks builder about everything
Nope
You've annoyed the fuck out of me just be ignorant
Ur ignorant, ur just pasting on ur car and acting like u know everything. If you know everything tell me how I am wrong.
That simple
I've tried, it's literally over your head
So you can’t explain shit cause u don’t know what ur talking about
Got it
All I am saying is superchargers, especially centrifugal ones are better to run on an NA engine because they have more of a linear boost
Most don't have an issue, but most aren't chronically online people who have some actual knowledge in the stuff. I usually avoid giving out info online because people are like you. I'm not interested in arguing with someone who's set on being wrong because they've done some half assed research
How is that wrong…go
So again, have fun
Dude I am asking a question
How am I wrong, ur refusing to answer it
When u wanna answer my question hit me up. Didn’t know it was that difficult. Just wanna know how I am wrong in that statement
Tell you what, if you can actually find out what boost is a measurement of (because that's literally the bottom of the pyramid) I'll drop a bunch of info on you
Hint hint, resistance
I tried that, I even typed out the best short explanation I could
The amount of air being forced into the engine, the positive pressure in the combustion chamber, Pounds per square inch, the additional pressure created from an outside force not off of the engines natural pump? What do you want?
It’s all the same, shoving more air into the combustion chamber than the engine can do naturally
Like have I not answered this before like multiple times
Nope
Start here
I literally told you in the simplest way I can think of
The resistance of the airflow
Idk
It's that simple
Doesn’t this all fall under the same term though
Now think about everything that could effect that. Mainly the charger, how it's driven, and the things that cause the most resistance
No, boost has as much to do with air evacuation as it does getting air into the combustion chamber
Hmm
Belt
You are taking away from the engine, but a centrifugal supercharger takes away very little
Confused
When you have an idea of what the engine can flow then we can move on to turbos/blowers. Sudden increase of air velocity = torque spike. So say you have something that uses every bit of 100lb/m and makes around 800chp. The blower is going to peak at whatever your rpm limit is(hopefully around 100lb/m), but (in the case of a manual) when you let off and shift, and get back into the throttle that sudden air velocity spike makes a torque spike. That sudden torque load is what kills most of these engines, along with harmonics
When you get back into it with a blower it will make more torque for that half a second than it will at full tilt and at redline
Now when you get to an auto a turbo is better every way you look at it. No spikes, smooth curves, you don't lose enough rpm after a shift to put the engine in a dangerous rpm range (for cylinder pressure), it's entirely controllable, and it's more efficient
So would it be bad especially on downshifting then?
As far as the twins vs single argument, the leading factor of spool time is air velocity as it hits the turbine. If you split the evacuating air into two systems you inherently lose both velocity and pressure. You're literally cutting the acting force in half
Any time you come off the throttle and get back into it. It could be anywhere in the rpm range
I see now
No lift shift with a blower is even worse unless you have the money to have legitimate protection (most of us only dream of that)
Single exhaust is more efficient than duals for this same reason
Then what is the point of a supercharger then. Why even twin charged. Deleted my hvac system and ps because I wouldn’t mind fitting a twin screw in it for fun.
Ease
Twin charging is more of a gimmick than anything. Might be cool for a street cruiser but when you want to start chasing power it's like shooting yourself in the foot
A supercharger kit is literally a bolt on. Turbo typical is not
Ya, so that is the only pro? Just ease
By the time a turbo kit is legitimately bolt on it's more expensive than a blower setup
If you're not chasing power they're just fine. In my opinion they introduce more problems than they're worth, especially on the smaller stuff most would consider. Small blowers make A LOT of heat and you typically don't have much of a core to flow the air through.
Plus you always run into the issue of your aux cooling system getting hot and your iat's being garbage until it cools off
The only time I'd say it's worth getting into a blower is if you have fuck you money and want to get into larger stuff that will flow 130lb/m+
Car/use dependant
Okay off topic question. I am always worried about cooling with my setup as my engine won’t have squirters. Some people say it will be fine, but I wanna make the most out of my cooling system. My engine bay is pretty free and I have a lot of room. I am gonna have a headlight intake on my left side for induction for my turbo I thought on my right I could have one too. Is it possible to have a second coolant cooling system, like a little radiator right there to help out also? I will have also an oil cooler in the front. Just wondering if it is a stupid idea or doable
Just buy a good radiator that's up for the task. Spend the money once and you won't regret it
Ya I am gonna get a dece one, just wondering if I could hook up a second little one
Or if it is even doable or worth it
I suggest large oil coolers, too. I universally use 5r140 transmission coolers
Aight
Also do aluminum forged pistons run hotter or cooler than cast. I can’t really find an definitive answer
Probably not worth it, you'll me making more radiant heat and the engine bay alone will still get your other coolant tank to whatever the engine wants to run at (thermostat spring or literally what the engine wants without it)
Aight thanks
Cause wouldn’t it suck up more heat?
I don't know that we would ever have a way to actually test this. Aluminum can get hotter but they still melt. We use aluminum because they're softer and handle detonation better than something like brittle cast. They'll be smaller than the cast when cold and larger than the cast when at temp
Aight
Your block and heads have way, way more to do with engine temp than the pistons
Would smoothing out the combustion chamber help
That's still up in the air
I say the smoother the better. No edges = more volume, but it depends on the head design
Still doing it though, as it slightly expands the chamber a bit
Ya my chamber oem is sharp
You're getting into some gray area now
Wdym
I want to change this to this.
Not recommended or….
Seen people do it. Make it match with the bore well too. Removing that much would add volume too, no?
It would and it could slow the velocity
But that's a trade off like everything else, being boosted it could not matter and you might see a little more power, or it could do nothing or even hurt power
Like I said, gray area. I don't know enough about those heads to have a definite answer on that
A CHEvy
most of these 5.3's with a good tune can hit 600 on 15psi or less... I say 600 wheel because around then is when a lot of guys look for more boost. You also change ring gap (really just the whole ringset, upper and lower comp rings and oil control rings and expander) to deal with blowby and expansion, at the same time a lot of guys just bore and or stroke their motor out. I know a few guys that have bored the 6.2's but idk what pistons they are running to fit the increased bore, its shelf pistons but idk what company. How many pounds were you running in that picture? As long as ur not being a total dumbass and you have a large surface area intercooler ur intake temps will stay nice and cold ESPECIALLY on port injection where the fuel can cool the air entering the cylinder even more...
90% duty cycle? LMAO dude thats fucking golden
air speed, volume, and temperature are the main things you want to control. On an engine that was not previously boosted (naturally aspirated) going to a boosted setup, its always recommended to at least check valve springs and make sure they are stiff enough. Its not uncommon on 20+ pounds to see stock springs that cant close the valve as quickly with all that boost pressure in the manifold and in the head intake port
Richard Holdener would like a word with you
It lived around 90% with the 1000s (Id) and it's seen 90 with 1500 sep plenty
@cinder spindle, why is a compound turbo slower to spool if it starts off spooling a smaller turbo?
It's not, compounds aren't twins and ops is a moron
Would you mind teaching me a bit about it? I'd like to build/turbo my next car, and I do have a general idea of what's needed and how it works, but you clearly know far more than I.
hes not the guy to teach you, he hasnt seen a cummins compound and how slow they spool
It's a 5.3 it doesn't give a shit below like 700whp
thats exactly what i told this man
People are grabbing junkyard 5.3s revving them out to 7200 with nitrous, limiter 3 minutes straight, or just turbo, intercooler, 80lb injectors and hope
ya dude... if ur actually smart u can throw 15psi at these suckers, cam, procharger, heads, whatever and be at 550/650
just people do dumb shit and blow em up and then blame the motor
6-7psi is the limit of stock fuel pump (400whp)
fuel pumps aint hard tho usually
just slap it on 91 or eth lol
Such a pain in the trucks
do u just drop the tank
But I have a sawzall
Yes
whats hard ab that?
i did a tank on a newer silvy and it was surprisingly easy for the in tank pump
hpfp on those di systems aint that fun
When it fails with 28 gallons of gas in it ....ask me how I know
oh shit lol
Filled it up, drove it 30 miles or so, fuel pump shit the bed
i have a siphon pump and that will remove a lot of it but it was like a grand
and a lift lol
that sucks af
I got a driveway and 1.5 working arms
ya same when im at home
i have 2 jackstands and a floor jack at home
Anyway, the biggest turbo you should put on that 5.3 for this application is a 70/76
70mm is pretty large
If that was the case, what is the point of ring gaps
On stock rings I don’t see it lasting
im telling u dude the 5.3 is fine stock
Did u not see this? It doesn’t matter about the engine either. It is a pretty universal concept. More heat expansion will cause the ring to expand further than designed and they can catch and fuck pistons
If the gap is changed then whatever. But if it is on stock rings. I doubt that is gonna run reliably. There is a reason why piston manufacturers have a list of like 10-20 different gap distances depending on what boost, fuel, and setup u are running
That's why junkyard 300k mile unit. The ring gaps itself with miles
That's fresh rings on 150k mile pistons. You both need to look up Richard holdener. These things don't really like to make even 500 with a stock cam. Try to cram all the air you want into them.
I watch him, he doesn't know what a small injector is, n/a 5.3? 80lb boosted 5.3? 80lb like bro that's double the stock unit
Incredible, the mod is as stupid as ops. Congratulations.
bro probably doesn’t even have a tuner to tune the truck when it’s done 💀
remember guys, just throw a mega squirt on it 
That'll put him on par with mango
mango can literally tune lmfao
he uses hp; yall are as dumb as u seem
wasn’t talking about him
I think anyone can use hpt
Anyone can blow up an engine or type random shit in, but do you know what it all does? That's the difference
Nah bro I've never seen a map. Teach me pls. Maybe when you're done you can go teach Holdener, too
There's an entire niche about making an LS as fast as possible with the least amount of money .....he's nowhere near that spending a grand on an intake for 3 more hp then I can grab a similar one for $200 off another gm vehicle no one wants
Yeah, that's about all id expect you to pick out if his videos
His stuff works on the dyno, take that to the real world and watch it drive like ass, his throttlebody is too damn large on everything, but what would you know you just watch it on YouTube
Surely you wouldn't grab any cam info or turbo info, still. You should do a little more research on the fella.
Bro exists to get people like you off of the surface level
"Surface level" you mean this? There's so many different maps in an engine that do similar things, some do the same thing go out and do more then YouTube, actually try some of the things he does
I have and it's worked well for me
u seem to religiously follow holdener, gay for him?
not to mention tuning for air density
muhaha
Absolutely
weirdf
Gotta love the people who do this for work and releases concrete data to people free of charge.
who do what