Miniature painting 🎨

[lilac marsh]

OK Painters, varnish before oil wash or nah?

[ornate tendon]

I’ve heard it both ways

[regal inlet]

Unfortunately I dont use oils.

[lilac marsh]

I know you use gloss for like panel lining

Just not sure if I can get away with not using it for normal shading

[ornate tendon]

A gloss varnish is definitely going to improve the flow characteristics of the wash

Intuitively I would not want that for normal shading; I’d want the wash to do more pooling on surfaces to get that gradient effect

But I don’t have specific experience here; I never varnish until I’m done painting and I only tried oils once and it didn’t click for me at the time

[floral pagoda]

No varnish, matt varnish, and gloss varnish are all going to have different effects. I recommend experimenting to see what you like more for different situations. Just be careful about not varnishing as you'll want to be more delicate with your oil removal as it increases the risk of damaging your acrylics underneath.

I wouldn't use spirits to remove oils without varnish underneath but if you're gentle with sponges or cotton swabs (only dabbing or rolling) you can get away with it.

I recommend the Resourceful Minis YouTube channel, he definitely lives up to his name and has a ton of incredibly useful tutorials for oil paints and other effects. Far and away my favourite painter on the Internet.

[cobalt summit]

Seconding cotton swabs for the spirits, I’ve had very little issue with zero varnish that way

[floral pagoda]

You can also just use sponges or cotton swabs sans spirits, that's more what I recommend for getting more shading/staining without varnish.

[lilac marsh]

Yeah this is for like a heavier/grimy wash on metallics for a knight

So probably leaving a lot on and removing with a makeup sponge

[languid jay]

Gloss if you want panel lining, otherwise no real need. I've done normal oil washing without matte varnish underneath, but I also tend to clean it up shortly after applying the wash rather than waiting for it to dry.

[languid jay]

Oh dang is that an entire Bjorn in there?

[regal inlet]

Missing his banner and banner pole but yeah!

[languid jay]

Oh that's easy to make on your own, hell yeah good find.

[regal inlet]

I got all of them for free

[lilac marsh]

I'm also considering being lazy and just using the proacryl newsh stuff

[languid jay]

Daaaaang, yeah that's a SUPER good find then.

[lilac marsh]

I've used it before and it's OK for making stuff look dirty, just not clean panel lining

[regal inlet]

Yeah! Especially because now I just need to source a base. Got a pair of spare Fenrisian wolves, a load of spare 40mm, and one spare (it was Guillimans before he broke) 5
60mm for the others. If I can get an 80mm gonna make the metal wolf guard into a Grimnar proxy.

[languid jay]

Nice, nice.

[regal inlet]

Yup! Now to let him cure!

[languid jay]

Gonna pin it?

[regal inlet]

Might not need to. He seems sturdy enough rn

[languid jay]

I put together a fair amount of metal dreads back when they only came in metal and trust me they're never as sturdy as you think they are.

They do make for a fine weapon when put into a sock and swung around though.

[cobalt summit]

Someone threw one at me once, can confirm

[humble stirrup]

Ah, the DreadSock

Also, I’ve printed out the last of the four Bradley’s of the Bradley platoon, unsure if I should do them in desert tan or a more woodland color scheme

[regal inlet]

Pfffft. Yeah I've built a resin Leviathan and that's pretty stable. Where should I pin Bjorn? Because I don't want to mess him up.

(he's primarily gonna be a display piece?

)*

[languid jay]

I'm still trying to source a basic box dread for my retro BA army. Plastic ideally, I'd rather not fuck with metal dreads at this point (though if I got it for free like you, well...)

Oh, you wanna pin the legs to the torso and the arms too. The feet...well, maybe? I'd certainly do it but he's a hefty sonnuvagun and it'd also depend on what the basing is going to be.

You could get away with one pin on the foot.

[regal inlet]

Would greenstuff work to pin?

[languid jay]

Absolutely not, you want a pin vice and some brass rods or paper clips.

If you have a dremel that makes it really easy, if not you can do it by hand with a normal pin vice.

[regal inlet]

Oh finally a use for my demel!

[languid jay]

Yeah, that's super handy to have. I usually start with a 1/32" drill bit because it tends to drill through pewter quicker, then follow up with a 3/64" bit to fit the paper clips I use.

Also, bonus tip: hold the metal parts in like a paper towel or other somewhat insulated material because the pewter tends to get hot. Not enough to scald you but it's uncomfortable, and this just makes things easier overall.

[regal inlet]

Ohhh thx! This is my first time pinning anything metal. (Only metal model I've painted is Colm Corbec)

[languid jay]

Generally speaking the bigger the metal model the more you want to pin them together.

Like, a basic metal space marine where the only other parts are a plastic backpack and like, a plasma pistol attached to the wrist? You can get away with no pinning. A dreadnought or daemon prince? Yyyyyeah, pin it.

[regal inlet]

Yeah Colm was all one bit. Same for the wolf priest. Rune priest, termie and Sternguard veteran are the others.

[languid jay]

Yeah, no real need to pin those unless one whole arm is separate.

[regal inlet]

Both arms for the termie and left arm for the Sternguard

[regal inlet]

See here

[languid jay]

Sternguard I'd pin, but the terminator...hm. If the pewter nubs are a little snug for the arm holes then you can get away with a dab of greenstuff and super glue to keep them in place, that should hold reasonably well.

[lunar axle]

Repainted a toy car as an abandoned tour vehicle for We Played God.

[humble stirrup]

Man, that’s a pretty old park then lol

[humble stirrup]

Is this the metal dread you were asking about?

[regal inlet]

Yup! Metal Bjorn

He's not glued to that base yet, just seeing if he stands there.

[lunar axle]

Not quite, but obviously, nothing screams 'off-roading' like an old timer touring car.

[humble stirrup]

Asking here as well as in Indie Wargaming: Just for some input since I can’t make up my mind, do y’all think I should print up the infantry dismounts of my Bradley platoon as having M4s or M7s? I’m split because of the idea of “future proofing” the guys to be equipped with what the US Army is still insisting will be the standard issue going forward, or go with stuff that is historically relevant and also the obvious fallback if the M7 continues to have issues. Also, in the models I’m using, there currently isn’t a standalone US Army grenade launcher model or an M7 equipped with one which is a bit annoying for if I wanted to include that if I went for the M7

[weak hornet]

Imma suggest a funny

Make these guys Nat Guard.

They always get the hang me downs/"Shit. This fucker is old" gear

[humble stirrup]

…this sounds funny, explain further

Oh, hahaha

That’s actually pretty funny

Shit I might actually do that as a justification if it comes up

[weak hornet]

https://tenor.com/view/laugh-blush-kyouko-toshinou-yuru-yuri-gif-5593668

Dew it

[humble stirrup]

Damn, that’s actually really funny

[weak hornet]

Of course, you're probably gonna have to go that these guys got scrambled fast. Because the deployed Nat units usually get the same/new shit issued to the regulars.

[humble stirrup]

Still, in the sense that if I wanna use these guys in a representation of an ultramodern battlefield if the US Army continues to insist on the M7, it’s not a bad explanation/joke

[weak hornet]

It really isn't

It's funny in a kinda "Hahahahaha. Oh shit, we're fucked." way

[humble stirrup]

Oh man, that reminds me, I got given a unit history book from the Ntl Guard base I worked on for a bit on my way out, and I still giggle about one of the pictures in it captioned “[NAME] operating a non-standard, locally acquired vehicle” with the picture being of a guy in full battle rattle riding a tricycle

[humble stirrup]

The joke is more the “this happens” kind of joke, I know

[weak hornet]

Yeah

[humble stirrup]

Part of why it reminds of that thing is that they really did have to use more traditional “nonstandard, local vehicles” when some of their trucks broke down because they were old as hell

[weak hornet]

That's bureaucracy for ya.

My district has aircon from the 80's in one building.

Yet somehow it can buy a fancy new bus for the football team.

Oh, and we've had a leaky celling that's gone as far back as forever.

[humble stirrup]

The archive I worked at had the HVAC fail whenever it got too hot and humid, which we call in the business “suboptimal”

[weak hornet]

HVAC can make or break so many things.

Apparently the room they have me parked at for classes has shit lighting/HVAC that can go out sometimes.

[humble stirrup]

Also, this was the specific system linked in to the archive part, the rest of the library was okay

[weak hornet]

Happened twice now and had to move to the library until it came back.

[humble stirrup]

So the archive and attached buildings would start sweltering when a Midwest summer did Midwest summer things

[weak hornet]

God no

I already deal with Texas summer

I don't want midwest summer

[humble stirrup]

You really don’t

The CORN GOD punishes his faithful

[weak hornet]

Why have you forsaken your faithful, Corn god!?

[humble stirrup]

In this case it was a weird thing where the library had had like two additions so was a mess of different systems

[weak hornet]

Oh no

Also, I'm painting up this Gladi.

I might pick the C-variant to be evil

[humble stirrup]

Green!

[humble stirrup]

Also this isn’t totally a joke, part of the reason the Midwest is like this is because of corn sweat

[weak hornet]

Dear god...Who knew God Sweat could be evil.

[humble stirrup]

And other crops, but corn does it really heavily

[weak hornet]

Oh shit. I think I might have come up with something cool/gross now.

What if...Divine sweat causes evil.

Salt demons everywhere

[humble stirrup]

Salt demons just sounds cool

[weak hornet]

It does

I might use Camoshade on the green when I'm finished.

I don't know what that'll do but I wanna see what happens with greenshade on green paint.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah I honestly have no idea what that’d do

[weak hornet]

Imma take photos when I dew it.

[humble stirrup]

Though I guess it’d depend how close it matches the shade?

[weak hornet]

Yeah

I'm using US dark camo

Maybe I should've done olive camo

Welp. Too late! I fully committed to the scheme

Color scheme: US dark camo all over the whole body, black on barrels and some bits, and a red for the face.

Oh! That reminds me. I bought some of those new shrapie art pens.

Imma see how freehanding tiny skulls with that goes.

[warm prawn]

Any ideas how to base these models? I mean, I have a bunch, but can't decide
Current ideas include (Spoilers to not influence ideas too much) ||Dark, murky swamp. Beach. Grasslands/torn up battlefield. Alien forest. Snow-covered mountainside||

[full hinge]

Grassland imo

[humble stirrup]

Gonna be seeing how much of the infantry for the Bradley platoon I’ve been working on I can print up in one go later this week

Maximum number will be 38 models, including attachments to the unit like a radio operator, forward observer, medic, and the models for guys with the alternate weapons that are stored in the Bradley’s (two Javelins and two M240s)

Also technically they should have about six LAW launchers but there aren’t models for those and if that comes up I’ll just say “this guy ran to the Brad and grabbed a LAW”

Or I guess I could model up a lil appropriate looking tube and glue them to a few guys

I’m trying to avoid the realization that I’m gonna probably also have to print out about two or three more squads of PLANMC and the associated vehicles

[thorny crystal]

Daemon Prince is going places

Now I gotta decide on a scheme-de-coloúr

[marble glacier]

I've been down in the paint mines:

[humble stirrup]

Your profile picture lives up to your chapter choice

Also, very good paint job, your toil in the mines has created a very good result!

[marble glacier]

Thanks!

[humble stirrup]

The very light highlight on the runes looks very nice

[lunar axle]

Finally painted my Daedalus and its Wings in urban camo.

[granite fox]

what game?

[lunar axle]

MECHCOM, my very own tabletop game!

I've designed the miniatures myself to go along with the ruleset.

If you want to see some more designs, you can check out mechcom.nl/gallery.html!

Why yes, Rat, that is indeed based on Berlin camo.

[ornate tendon]

Berlin Brigade squares are evergreen

[weak hornet]

New mech who dis

[lime haven]

Everyone in my group calls this little goober the Shameleoh for some reason

The jumpy x-pulse variant is pretty spooky

[weak hornet]

Heh

...The name implies there are gators

Are there gator mechs?

[weak hornet]

An update

[lunar axle]

I like the colour scheme. A pin wash might help it really pop, though.

[weak hornet]

Oh yeah, Imma put some Nuln

I just need to put some silver on the weapons.

And then after that, Imma put oil all over the place.

Or maybe Earthshade

I also have Seraphin sepia

[lunar axle]

Seraphim Sepia will work great with the red and yellow for sure. Did you use pure white for the, well, white?

Because that tends to be a little too cold for sepia.

It almost looks like a very pale purplish flesh tone in the pictures, hmm.

[weak hornet]

I used Stonewall grey

Probably gonna have to drybrush some neutral grey onto Mad Jenny.

[lunar axle]

That might actually work with sepia, but that's an experiment.

[weak hornet]

True

I also got some Camoshade

[weak hornet]

I have gone extra

[marble glacier]

Working on one of my players' characters in my Traveller game

[weak hornet]

Very nice

[lime haven]

Such crisp yellows my god

[weak hornet]

Latest

[weak hornet]

So, since my basecoat was stonewall grey.

Do I use that for the drybrush or do I use neutral grey?

[weak hornet]

And I'm finished

[lime haven]

Ready to hop behind some idiots and scythe them apart with pulse laser fire.

[weak hornet]

Yes

The Duchess thirsts for blood.

Yeah, she and the Red Bandits are battle junkies.

[lunar axle]

Corpro Wasp and Bombardier in a mesa camo.

[weak hornet]

New bandit

[lime haven]

A mech i don't actually recognize. What is this goob

[weak hornet]

A Spector

[lime haven]

Ahhh. Groovy.

[weak hornet]

And I also picked up some paints

Also I think I have a problem

[lime haven]

A neatly stored one, at least.

[weak hornet]

Yes

[viral arch]

Finally got around to painting more EC

[languid jay]

Hell yeah

[regal inlet]

finally after a week and a bit of work he's done

[languid jay]

https://leadmountainwidow.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/bjorn-e1548800034646.jpg

If you ever want to replace the banner you could easily print one out.

[regal inlet]

Oh aye. I did print that one out, using a horrible quality pic I found.

[languid jay]

Oooh, okay hah

[regal inlet]

Ill probably get the OG banner if I find someone selling just the pole and flag

(current one is greenstuff)

[languid jay]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226710212931 Best I've found that's not at a truly ludicrous pricer

[regal inlet]

Yeah. They are so stupidly expensive. Especially as that would need US->UK shipping.

[languid jay]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226649807653 Oh, UK might be better here.

https://www.printables.com/model/1150049-2nd-edition-bjorn-the-fell-handed-banner/related someone did make a 3D printable one too.

[viral arch]

Got some big boys table ready

I love a good productive airbrush sesh

[marble glacier]

Did the armour pieces, trying for NMM

[regal inlet]

Oh that's Hella cool! The cyberpunk boardgame right?

*I am also loving and hating the choice to do gold-brown herez

[marble glacier]

It's definitely meant for Cyberpunk, but the mini is for a PC in my Traveller game

[regal inlet]

Oh very very cool?

!*

[marble glacier]

Sweet model. Is that the older, metal one?

[regal inlet]

Yup! Got him in a set with the OG metal Bjorn, a metal WGT, Rune priest and Sternguard veteran

[marble glacier]

Amazing!

[regal inlet]

Did Bjorn already!

[marble glacier]

Oh hell yeah

[regal inlet]

2 more hours of work

[lime haven]

No law in the Inner Sphere. Just the executioner.

[humble stirrup]

Looking nice

[lime haven]

I need to figure out how to apply gloss varnish more neatly but otherwise im very pleased with this fellow. Mostly following Duncan Rhode's tutorial for sword of light mechs mixed with my own jeweling techniques.

[honest tide]

Painted up one of my Wretched for Trench Crusade

[weak hornet]

Noice

Oh yeah

That's a pretty disgusting mini there.

10/10

Assignment getting full marks.

Add glowing demonic tattoos or runes

[honest tide]

Oh those are being kept for the more elite models, not the chained up cannon fodder

though there arensome good spots to add them on the paneling

[weak hornet]

Neat

Also, question to the Hams, why do Tau look so nice when painted?

[alpine grotto]

Hmm, trying to decide if we want the torso to be mostly black, or mostly dark grey

Agh we’re seeing so many flaws in this but it’s fine we’re just going to tell that part of our brain to fuck off

[weak hornet]

There is no such thing as a bad paint job

Only happy accidents and lore drops waiting to happen

[lime haven]

Current paintjob:
Crabbu

[lunar axle]

I finally have an indoor airbrush setup, so time to abuse that.

[keen gulch]

finally started on flayed ush

doing fat and bone lines is hard i just slop thinned white onto red while wet and let it go where it will

i need better white for detailing teeth and stuff in a second

[weak hornet]

For that? You'll probably want really bright whites or contrast whites.

Also, I have started painted the second-hand guardsmen.

Size 0 brushes are a must for 25 mm

[steady field]

Invasion era 3rd army ComGuards on Tukayyid, ready to fry some Falcons

First bigger project of mine, very happy with how it turned out

[weak hornet]

Look at them.

Look at those dirty phone contractors.

Question. I might buy some Krieg later and when I'm bulding.

Should I fully build the model first or build up the torso/head to make it easier to paint?

[regal inlet]

Sub assemblies all the way

Personally I prefer leaving heads and arms off.

[full hinge]

Depends on your goals but subassembly isn’t really worth it for them imo

[regal inlet]

Though NGL a lot of what I've done is marines.

[weak hornet]

Why isn't it worth it? Time sink?

[full hinge]

The gaps you can’t paint are hard to see and low detail and subassembly can lead to weird color tone differences across the arms

[weak hornet]

I see

[full hinge]

Also depends on if you’re going for “tabletop quality” vs some kind of art object

[weak hornet]

Also true

[regal inlet]

true

NGL for mine it's easy to hide differences because it's all mottled schemes.

[full hinge]

Though that’s easy - subassembly is never worth it for tabletop quality

[weak hornet]

Right now I'm working on some second hand guardsmen I got from an LGS.

Painting them up in a deep sky blue/neutral grey format.

[regal inlet]

Also with the fact it's a lot or space wolves I do. They all have cloaks or other gubbins that make painting assembled hard.

[weak hornet]

Once I'm done with the second-handers. I'm going to get some Kriegers and paint them in Olive Drab.

[lilac marsh]

The only time I consider doing subassembly is with capes, dudes on bikes, or faces

Or I guess huge models like knights

[regal inlet]

If it's bigger than a marine I'll do subs.

Legit don't think I could have done this lad as good without subs

[weak hornet]

The latest

[weak hornet]

Almost there

[lime haven]

I really like the blue on that guardsman.

[weak hornet]

I know

It's soooo good

The eyes are gonna be the most dangerous part.

[lime haven]

I've never painted eyes, and son, its gonna stay that way

[cobalt summit]

Micron pen

Micron pen micron pen micron pen

[weak hornet]

Where am I going to get a micro- Oh yeah, I forgot about Walmart

[cobalt summit]

Michaels will also have em

Most random ass nowheresville towns still have a michaels or a hobby lobby in north america IME

[weak hornet]

All right, tell me about this method, Geoshrimp.

[cobalt summit]

Its literally just having a very small permanent marker

You can get diff colors but the white isn’t awful to do as long as you have a real white instead of citadel’s crap

Then just dot/streak with a micron pen for the pupil

[weak hornet]

I see

I have some white from Vallejo

So, Imma workshop this.

How does Caernillian Rangers sound for a Guard Regiment?

[humble stirrup]

Gonna just jump in to say that if you have any other option don’t go to Hobby Lobby

[cobalt summit]

I’m not a fan of them either, given the fundamentalism and also the funding literally ISIS, but its worth pointing out even nowheresville stores will have these, they’re not specialist gear

[regal inlet]

Look for your closest FLGS. 99% of them are super chill and willing to help.

The ones usually go to have been a massive money saver. (20% discount of most things)

[humble stirrup]

Wasn’t ISIS, as the artifact smuggling incidents were before they were established, but still was likely going to unsavory sources

I researched and wrote a paper on the events

[weak hornet]

So, acrylic paint markers are about to become the newest item.

Army Painter at Gencon was showing off their speedpaint markers with Infinity minis.

[humble stirrup]

Ooh, neat

I can definitely see a bunch of use for that

[weak hornet]

You think Citadel might do it too?

Because now we got AK and Army Painter getting into this.

[humble stirrup]

Including just basic stuff like how some people who use smaller scale/less differentiated models like to have labels on them it’d be nice to just be able to write them rather than do weird printed transfer sheets or glued labels that curl

Or doing simple decals

[weak hornet]

Oh yeah

[humble stirrup]

I’m very interested in this

[weak hornet]

Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/a9qePdPPtNM

And let me go get Uncle Atom's video about using Sharpie's acrylic paint markers as a non-hobby turned hobby tool.

https://youtu.be/1DNCVPxigZw

[humble stirrup]

Especially since I was just thinking about how to do labels on the lil hotdog men I have for Down Range (mostly for ease of record keeping of who goes in what vehicle and is attached to what squad since Bradley’s are cross-loaded)

[weak hornet]

Hotdog men

That's funny

I love that

[humble stirrup]

Look dude, they totally are

[weak hornet]

I see

[humble stirrup]

Hotdog men!

[weak hornet]

Oh my god

[humble stirrup]

Also, all the model files are free on the website, just for a plug

[weak hornet]

And this is the game literally being used at USMC war game training?

[humble stirrup]

Yep

[weak hornet]

No wonder they're playing this

It fits perfectly with their crayon tendencies.

[humble stirrup]

Also the rules are free too

A serious answer is that it helps get them printed up quick but still be representative

[weak hornet]

Also, the abstractness probably helps too.

[humble stirrup]

And that the game more broadly helps kinda fill a role of easy to run but still having a depth of tactics, and most importantly easily playable by LTs and NCOs in their spare time

Since a lot of actual military wargames are often at a much higher command level and much more complex

[weak hornet]

Oh yeah

That shit can get wild fast

[humble stirrup]

And definitely in the “move tiles around” scale

Whereas having little guys is both visually appealing which can help entice people to play (and thus learn) but also gets you to realize how your command decisions are getting your men chewed up

[weak hornet]

Yeah

[humble stirrup]

Especially since a casualty is left on the tabletop and not removed unless in the medical sub-system you get a “model is dead, remove from play” result

It actually got to me in a way I wasn’t expecting to see my guys pile up like that in the game I played, especially since you’re incentivesed to try to get them medical treatment to get them back in the fight

Which then means having to get a medic out there or drag them to the medic

[weak hornet]

Oh yeah, something like sorta makes someone stop and go "Oh.".

[humble stirrup]

Yeah

He said in an interview I listened to that that’s part of the intention of that rule

Anyhow, this isn’t wargaming chat this is painting

[weak hornet]

Hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe

[humble stirrup]

Anyhow, those AP pens look a bit bigger than I was expecting from that description, but I’m interested to see more about them

[weak hornet]

I wanna see how it goes

Because, if it can be done right, imagine an effects paint from a marker.

Battleworn grey, Combat chipped white, Pockmark black

[humble stirrup]

Also this was a really helpful video, thanks

[crude pumice]

I would love a fine acrylic paint pen

Would make exile markings for my carcharodons like 90% easier

[lunar axle]

Now to figure out a scheme.

[weak hornet]

So, I built one of the Tau I bought from last week.

Just had a question though, and I probably asked already.

But Proacryl's brush on primer, do I need to thin it down or it can be used straight?

[lilac marsh]

Generally brush on primer doesn't need to be thinned

Just don't gloop it on

[regal inlet]

Yeah. Thinning isn't needed, and you basically just need a thin coat.

[weak hornet]

All righty

[regal inlet]

Primers job is to act as something for the other paints to stick to.

[weak hornet]

Do I need to do anything with a brush before I start applying?

[regal inlet]

Not really. I would recommend using a spare brush you don't mind trashing for it.

Priming a lot of minis can damage one quickly.

Done much mini painting before?

[weak hornet]

Yes

Yes I have

But with a can

The can is god, the can is devil

worship the can

love the can

be the can

[regal inlet]

Rattle cans are nice. But I've finally gotten an airbrush and it's nicer for primers.

[weak hornet]

Airbrushes are nice

[lilac marsh]

I'll use airbrush primer for small batches but it's so much faster to just blast with the rattle can

Even if the airbrush it's cheaper to run

[weak hornet]

True

[lilac marsh]

Airbrush priming a knight is hell

[weak hornet]

Also, I'm gonna make my Tau basically be mercs for Killteam.

Does it make sense? No

[lilac marsh]

Of course during the winter you don't get to use the rattlecan

[weak hornet]

Is it fun? Yes

[weak hornet]

I come bearing another question

So, you know how people paint over metallics with black to provide a foundation for an actual metallic paint.

Is it the same for black? Like if I paint something grey then paint over black.

[regal inlet]

To get a better black? I normally find doing a few layers of black is better

[weak hornet]

I see, I see

[regal inlet]

Like here.

[lilac marsh]

I've never heard of this tbh

[regal inlet]

Also this. Only time I'll cover a metallic with other shades, then do another metallic is for my Heresy Wolves. But that's because getting the Mech standard grey looking right doesn't work (at least for me) without a base of Iron Warriors. But I also like battle damage so the extra bits of iron warriors is normally for "chipping"

[lilac marsh]

Undercoating only works if your next coats are fairly transparent, and black is basically the least transparent paint you can get unless you thin it on purpose

[regal inlet]

Whenever I do a sooted blade I have to thin my paints down by like 5:1 paint to water.

[weak hornet]

I've seen it a couple times

[cobalt summit]

If you go far enough north people heat their barns and you can prime in the winter again

just try not to think about how miserable -40F is

[cobalt summit]

Fuck it we’re gonna start learning OSL tonight

[lunar axle]

I think what you are referring to is using a gloss black underneath a metallic or colour shift paint.

The gloss part is very important here, as that acts essentially as a smoothing layer and helps make the metallic that much shinier.

In general, undercoating becomes more relevant the lighter a paint is. Sure, it can theoretically help black, but most black paints are wonderfully dense in pigment and will be entirely fine with one or two smooth coats. It's moreso when you're trying to get a white, a red, or a yellow to cover more easily and get tinted less, as those paints are less dense in pigment and/or use pigments that have lesser coverage, meaning they can use a little help.

You can hopefully see how this red doesn't cover quite nicely (I tried painting it one way, then decided to paint it another way halfway through, so we're going again), so it'll either need better layers, or I'll need to begin with a better undercoat like brown to give it a base.

[humble stirrup]

As the man says, multiple thin coats

But yeah for some colors using the right base color can help a lot

Like yellow is often easier over brown

[lunar axle]

True, though if you want a warm yellow, pink or magenta is great.

[cobalt summit]

Pink undercoat is black magic for putting yellow on models you want primed black

Used it for my skaven

[weak hornet]

So, I'm checking out Megahobby right now

and I gotta ask, in what situation would I have to a brush like this? Like legitimately.

https://www.megahobby.com/products/sniperbrush-collection-set-ammo-of-mig-jimenez.html

Okay, it explains itself

[humble stirrup]

Eyes or maybe eyelashes lol

[granite fox]

i forgor to post here

[humble stirrup]

Just a tip, I have got pretty good heat effect by layering washes or inks

It can get a much nicer gradient than trying to just paint the same stuff with traditional paints

However, depends what you’re going for

[weak hornet]

The Greater Green

[lime haven]

The only way to win is to get back up after the blow. Again, and again, and again. Never surrender.

And his buddy.

[midnight mesa]

Nice glass/gem effect

[lilac marsh]

Panel shading time

[weak hornet]

_>. I love this floaty boi

[austere swift]

1st Ghost Regiment, DCMS

[lime haven]

Oooh. How'd you do the stippled pattern?

[humble stirrup]

Sponge or foam is the usual way to do it

[weak hornet]

The relic is very powerful

[austere swift]

Shredded up transport foam, yeah.

[lunar axle]

Barracuda, the personal Cheyenne of Corporal Hayes of the Heartbreakers.

[weak hornet]

The big green is done

[manic raven]

Finished a warlord titan today.

[warm prawn]

Help. I accidentally a blood bowl kit.

[humble stirrup]

Praise Nuffle

Also it’s such a simple joke but it’s still very funny the god of Blood Bowl is just saying NFL like a word

[warm prawn]

Blood Bowl is such fertile ground for jokes, too.

For example, the team name I'm currently vibing with the 'Sand Jellies Waaghsquigs' (as opposed to San Diego/Los Angeles Chargers) and that player is Say-Ow Da Lessa (as opposed to Junior Seau)

[lilac marsh]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1071721733549203466/1404690970003640401/20250811_215851.jpg?ex=689c1be9&is=689aca69&hm=c2f000ab168a9fb725863e23ed83b531dac064740deb87a3279ad53319b8d58c&

tasteful osl

[alpine grotto]

Still need to paint the arms and a few other details but we’re liking the swap from purple to red

[humble stirrup]

Printing attempt at the library today was a hilarious comedy of errors, mostly down to the slicing program there freaking out and crashing from having too much stuff at once apparently, and then the first print that started running first froze when the the slicing software crashed and then the next had adhesion issues lmao

Thankfully I was able to save the stuff I was working on so they’ll just try running it again in a bit, so fingers crossed

[lunar axle]

Finally rearranged the display case. Now I can fit my own game in there.

[humble stirrup]

This is how the vehicles I mentioned earlier turned out, they’re a ZBD-05 (the tracked one, it’s an amphibious landing craft/IFV) and ZBL-08 (the wheeled one)

[humble stirrup]

The print process was a real pain due to screwups by the program and printer, and then working to magnetize them was also a pain since the road wheels of the 05 are slightly thinner than my smallest magnets and the wheels of the 08 have voids in them I wasn’t expecting

I did get them magnetized though so it eventually came out okay

And the nice thing about the FDM printer is you can do different colors easily, so did blue to stand for the PLANMC

[regal inlet]

V. Nice!

[languid jay]

Been making some buildings.

[humble stirrup]

Looking nice!

[glad shale]

Bases baby

[languid jay]

Leftover screen mesh from repairing a window.

[weak hornet]

More paint sets should have free mini's.

[manic raven]

Some Spireguard Solar Aux. I like them grimier than the thousand sons but on the next batch I wanna get a bit more brightness so they stand out from the base more.

[humble stirrup]

Maybe just a tiny touch brighter, but they’re looking pretty darn good overall

[lunar axle]

Cooked up a new HERAKLES unit, still in need of a good name. I might add some 'nose art' style markings here and there, too.

[lunar axle]

And with her friends.

[languid jay]

Now we're cooking with gas.

[warm prawn]

Dang it.
I may need to commission more trench crusade minis now that I found some really nice colours.

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLASMsvvddk

[regal inlet]

Hoping that's looks like the vents are working?

[lilac marsh]

Might want to brighten the inside of the vent too?

[regal inlet]

Oh planning to. Just scrounging through my paint draws to see what options I have

[feral kettle]

gorgeous!!!

[lunar axle]

Time to get my MECHCOM cabinet filled a little.

[granite fox]

wip 1 vs wip 3

WHEN WILL I UNDERSTAND NMM

[weak hornet]

I have acquired used coffee grounds

the drying of the grounds is still ongoing

[humble stirrup]

The fact you’re even trying puts you above me, so that’s something

Also, as I understand it’s one of the hardest things to do well

[weak hornet]

Along with that

You have the confidence of your work to show it off in a public forum.

[humble stirrup]

Also, damn, actually painting eyes and not having it turn out looking AUUUUGHHHH is a good job

And especially having good eyeline

[humble stirrup]

Dude those look great

[languid jay]

I'm real happy with the end result. I still gotta add a few small details but they're like, 98% done.

[weak hornet]

I have spent the past two days collecting and drying coffee grounds for dirt.

The progress is going smoothly.

[languid jay]

Various kinds of tea is also a good thing for ground cover.

[regal inlet]

Tea is also good for aging parchment!

[languid jay]

Also: since fall is almost here, keep a lookout for any birch trees nearby. Collect the seed pods, the little seeds that come off are the perfect size and shape for leaves.

https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/17hl5yu/ive_been_making_leaf_scatter_from_birch_seeds/

You can tint them with paints to get all kinds of colors.

[weak hornet]

Ohhhhh

I just realized that the torn open sandbags in my backyard are a free source of sand.

[languid jay]

Tree bark is also a great thing for rocks. I got a giant-ass bag of pine bark from Home Depot for $4 and it's basically a lifetime supply.

[crude pumice]

First attempt at OSL with the airbrush!

[humble stirrup]

Damn, airbrushes really are cheat codes for certain things huh

Not disparaging, more just going “damn, airbrushes bro”

[crude pumice]

It took awhile to get the pressure right for the ink I was using

But yeah, I’ve been loving mine.

[granite fox]

im an anti airbrush user

i just be painting with brushes

[lilac marsh]

the plasma glow on the gun is good but its a little bright on the dude and could fade off more, but thats tricky depending on your airbrush nozzle size

not to say im much better with mine lol

[crude pumice]

It’s a 0.2mm

It’s a skill issue realistically. And I know for next time to make it slightly less bright

[crude pumice]

There’s nothing you can do with an airbrush that you can’t also do with regular brushes

It just makes certain things easier

You’re 100% valid for that tho. I was the same for the longest time

[regal inlet]

This^ I have an airbrush, but legit the only thing I use it for is priming because that's cheaper than rattle cans. I can get a big bottle of primer for the brush for like 10 quid and it will last me a good 60+ minis.

[languid jay]

I use the airbrush for priming and varnishing, mostly, but it's very handy for laying down base colors and zenithal.

[languid jay]

Took a crack at some DIY creeping vines.

[lunar axle]

Those look very nice, damn. How'd you do it?

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVjud7w9zO4 I copied this, basically.

I used some green-tinted birch seed, dried used mint tea, and some woodland scenics earth blend flock.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWSpAi5unk8 Another method uses polyfiber, which I think would be useful for covering large areas or making flower beds. Or weeping willow trees.

[lunar axle]

Interesting, I've been looking to add more plants to my terrain.

[languid jay]

Same. I've been seriously debating making my own flock since it's actually not that difficult.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiRp4SFkmpA You basically just need foam like what's in couch cushions.

He does use a blender there but if you want really fine flock, get yourself a coffee grinder and grind down the larger chunks after it's been tinted green.

You can of course, tint these in whatever color you want so it's good to have some flowery colors--yellow, pink, purple, blue, etc. Ground into a somewhat fine flock and glued atop grass tufts and you have flowers.

[lunar axle]

I might have to do something with that once I hopefully design and lasercut something, thank you.

[lilac marsh]

They are going to give their opinions of female astartes

[lunar axle]

Those are disgusting. I love 'em.

[weak hornet]

Board game mini's are such great practice pieces

[weak hornet]

So, I have a question. What would make this striking?

Painting the robes in off-whites before using a white?

Or painting the robes in a very vivid purple?

[lunar axle]

I think an off-white with some very saturated pops of detail could do it.

[weak hornet]

I see, I see

[weak hornet]

So, my brain made a toss

it picked purple

Boom

[lunar axle]

That is also a solid choice.

[weak hornet]

It really is

[lunar axle]

I am scared to paint these.

[weak hornet]

Iz easy

get a 12/0 brush

[lunar axle]

Yeah, fair enough.

[weak hornet]

Just take time and let the mini's spirit tell you what it wants to be.

[lunar axle]

Compared to normal scale.

[weak hornet]

Ahhhhhhhh

Look at the little baby

[weak hornet]

Gaze upon The Red-Saintess of Avennio

[woven spire]

Animatronic kobolds and an equally animatronic troll!

[weak hornet]

Ahhhhhhhhh

Look at that them.

I wanna just give them candy.

[languid jay]

Oh I have those Reaper models.

Really should get to painting those but I wanna do like, arcade/bowling alley carpet bases.

[lunar axle]

Miniatures? Nah, those are a little big for my taste.

[humble stirrup]

Mini(er)atures

Are those 6mm?

[cobalt summit]

Lookin for some advice from folks who’ve messed with milliput/greenstuff/resin pouring. I’m trying to match texture of the liquid flow on the sculpt and make more tendrils rising up outta the base toward the hands—I’m thinking between doing a bunch of greenstuff wrapped around wires, or pouring resin over them and hitting with a uv cure pretty quick—or some combination of both. Anybody got ideas/experience?

goal is to get him in kind of an ocean of the stuff and messing around with it, then paint it kinda like the molten sulfur out of Very Pulse Of The Machine. Good contrasts to turquoise & gold necrons & like martian earth basing

[lunar axle]

Smaller, even. They're 1/500.

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e12yZWh-Yyo

[spiral crane]

Feel like this might be the best spot to ask. Brand new GM. I wanna treat my players to a mini. Is there any franchises out creators out there than made a modular or at least multiple weapon option mecha I could get so they can paint and customize thier first mech?

[weak hornet]

Painting up a stormcast

[weak hornet]

Oh, and gave this guy sand now

[lilac marsh]

Brother I am drowning

[thorny crystal]

https://tenor.com/view/zelda-good-gif-12770262

[woven spire]

Perturabo keeps his grisliest sieges for his most disappointing sons

[humble stirrup]

That’s his secret: he’s disappointed in all of them

[lime haven]

WHAT THE FUCK ARE SURRENDER NEGOTIATIONS
WE MUTED OUR RADIOS AND WE SHOOT ANYONE WHO WALKS OUT THE GATES
SIEGEMAXXING AND CITY SACKING PILLED

[weak hornet]

WHY DO YOU NOT LOVE US FATHER!!!!!

PLEASE! WE BEG YOU!

[humble stirrup]

9/10 Iron Warriors quit before receiving Dad’s affection

[lime haven]

implying 1/10 succeeded

[wind ingot]

1/10 are still looking in the eye of terror

[pale bay]

I can still see silver, add more grime. /j

[granite fox]

i was about to write "hey isnt this a repost?" and i realized you posted this in a different server

[woven spire]

I like sharing

I do have a few more I'll be painting though

[humble stirrup]

Oh wizards of nail plate stamping, inform me of how this dark art works

More seriously, how’s it worked for you and what kinds of paints work well with it?

Slimnoid very kindly pointed me in the direction of a nail plate that has a variety of camo patterns, and I’m wondering about using it to at least do that funky Chinese digital camo on vehicles, and maybe experimenting with using it to speed up doing patterns on infantry

However, not to sure how well it’d work on more curved or irregular surfaces

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFdFeVFcLHo So, the type of paint you use is just regular ol' nail polish. Any will (probably) do, and here's a video about the process.

[humble stirrup]

Hmm, I guess I’d just wonder about color match

[languid jay]

I have not used it myself because I haven't had a project that would use it. At least, not yet--I've got a retro 2e Blood Angels project on the backburner that might use nail plates.

For color match, I'd just test on some scrap plastic first. Literal junk you'd normally throw out, like containers, would be great for that. Especially curved ones.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah it definitely would be great for small decals

Like unit insignia and such

[languid jay]

Yeah.

[humble stirrup]

I just am kinda going at the possibility of doing camo patterns potentially easier

[languid jay]

I do have a ton of GW waterslide decals and I know how to use them well so it's not as if I really need to get any of these, but they'd be nice for things like checker patterns which are a hassle to get right.

[humble stirrup]

Even if it’s just for vehicles and not infantry that’d be a neat time save

[languid jay]

Oh yeah, for sure.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah checkers or hazard stripes can be a real pain

Gets in the proper grumpy iron warriors mood tho

[languid jay]

Or lightning bolts for Night Lords.

[humble stirrup]

On the one hand I see that, on the other isn’t that crackle kinda sorta “freehand to taste”?

[languid jay]

It is but there's a lot of nail plates with various lightning bolts that you can copy from. And you can always adjust after.

[humble stirrup]

Unless you mean on pauldrons as a logo and not as the crackle across the armor

[languid jay]

I mean more as a general thing. It'd be really handy for people who want to do that but don't have steady hands.

[humble stirrup]

Though to get the best effect for the latter you’re often following the same freehand line at least twice

[languid jay]

Yeah, that or you're an airbrush wizard.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah

But yeah it definitely seems like a cool tool I’d like to learn more about

It’s cool how the past few years have seen a lot of new hobby formulas or stuff getting noticed and brought in

Like the whole contrast/speed paints, paint pens, nail plates

[languid jay]

Oil washing being downright standard now too.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah, I worship at the altar of washes

[languid jay]

Btw if you want cheap plates, Aliexpress has hundreds of them.

[humble stirrup]

ALL HAIL AGRAX EARTHSHADE ALL HAIL NULN OIL

Wait, unless you mean some new Wash Formulas

[languid jay]

I mean specifically oil washes, using oil paints.

Take a bit of oil paint and dilute it down with mineral spirits until it's a wash. Apply to model, then clean up with mineral spirits on a q-tip or makeup sponge--this can be done either shortly after applying or waiting for it to dry.

The bonus is oil doesn't interact with acrylic so you can just slop it on top of a model first without varnishing, then safely remove the oil wash to your liking. You can of course do a gloss varnish first, which is very useful for pin washing (like say, joints/lines on a terminator).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0kSonz55Do Good ol' Uncle Vince shows how it's done.

[humble stirrup]

Huh, I’ll take a look at this later

Thanks man

[languid jay]

It's been a game-changer for me, personally. Really handy on vehicles, large models, and terrain, but it's helped me bang out like a dozen models at a time.

[humble stirrup]

What’s the big use case you’ve found for it?

[languid jay]

Mostly the above, but especially terrain.

[humble stirrup]

Oh I more mean for what you’re trying to get from it

[languid jay]

This building got a brown wash at one point, and then later you can see some streaks there. Helps make it look grime-ridden and realistic.

[humble stirrup]

I’m probably not saying what I’m trying to ask well

I think what I’m trying to ask is how it’s better than a more traditional wash and in what use cases

[languid jay]

It's better than a traditional wash for a few reasons:

• You can make a lot of it for less. A tube of oil paint is like $3 and will last you years, and mineral spirits are similarly cheap. Make it ahead of time inside a glass jar and you have basically one sizable container for a wash.
• Easy clean-up. The video above shows it, but it's very easy to remove the oil wash after the fact--mineral spirits will reactivate the oil and you can then remove it with a sponge or whatever, so if you don't like it then you can just remove it without having to repaint the whole area/model.
• Wider range of colors. Not a lot of companies make oddball wash colors and with oil paints you're not as limited.
• It's very useful for a more realistic and often worn-down look, and is a main component for the "grimdark" style of painting. But tank modellers have been using oil washes for a long time and well, you need only see a few of those to see how effective it is at doing that.

[humble stirrup]

Gotcha

[languid jay]

Now, an acrylic wash is still very useful because it's pre-made right out of the bottle, doesn't use stinky chemicals, and I find it is more intense in its shading (very handy for bolters and other mechanical gubbins). Acrylic washes can also be safely shot through an airbrush whereas an oil wash is a lot more finnicky.

[humble stirrup]

Seriously I recall you’ve been painting for a long time and I appreciate the tips

[languid jay]

I've been painting since before Tau were first introduced.

[humble stirrup]

And definitely doing more painting more consistently than my “when the stars align and the moon is right” frequency

[regal inlet]

I've only been doing minis for 8~ years so I'm also always looking for help.

[languid jay]

That's what the channel exists for!

[regal inlet]

Like getting a much smoother white and transition on this frakkee

[languid jay]

Ooooh man, white.

White is annoying.

[regal inlet]

yup but it's a part of Haru's scheme. And this guy Is gonna have a banner of her

[humble stirrup]

Painting white via any other method than “I sprayed it on” is an exercise in pain

[regal inlet]

ref pic I've been using

[humble stirrup]

And then you just cry when any cleanup is needed

[languid jay]

The biggest thing most people will point to you is that white is best done with an airbrush, yeah. Or rattlecan. That said, you can slowly build up from off-white colors first and then finish with a highlight of pure white. Lots of thin layers here.

[regal inlet]

yup then again I did a Baneblade. By hand

With bronze trims.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah I had a much nicer time doing yellow when I was told tan was a good way to build to it

Also, what primer do you think would be a good US desert tan color?

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZcNMZeHpEk One of the more illuminating videos was Marco's one about painting white, which is that if you want a good white it's actually the last color you put on--you're letting the environment and various details fill in the visual gaps first.

[humble stirrup]

I wonder if Wraithbone would work good or if it’s a tad too much towards the white end

[languid jay]

Marco's a professional artist with a lot of color theory under his belt so he approaches it from funky angles.

[humble stirrup]

(This is another reason I’m bad at painting, I take forever figuring out color schemes since I want stuff to feel/look right)

Well, bad at isn’t right, more that I have trouble starting or being consistent on projects

The starting and keeping at it is my biggest trouble

Being slow is fine if I was just consistent

And had a space that I could shut off from The Beast

[languid jay]

The best thing to do about consistency is to just fuckin' do it and not let motivation dictate things.

Motivation is a fickle mistress and should not be relied upon.

[cobalt summit]

Break down tasks to small as you can, 90% of things you don’t need to do in one sitting tbh

[cobalt summit]

Trying to find the right degree of saturation for the water and basing, not quite there yet

Fluorescent paint is fun while I’m curing UV resin puddles

[warm prawn]

Understanding that the Terminator is not the model that's going to be be getting shot and is there as a stand-in, which configuration do we like better?

[compact pier]

Two I think

[regal inlet]

Aye 2. And finally calling this done

[lunar axle]

Sometimes I get distracted during basecoating.

[humble stirrup]

Yooooo

[manic raven]

A few pics from our epic Armageddon mega-game this weekend. Had. 100% painted requirement(with back up models for anyone who didn't want to paint). Really tried to catch that warhammer world diorama feel

Played 16,000 points a side on a 10x6 table. Chaos won, taking the Hive city with a 60-59 pyrrhic victory.

[crude pumice]

that is sick

[cobalt summit]

Subtler than I was kinda hoping for but I think I got a solid power weapon effect going

[languid jay]

A thin layer of pure white via edge highlighting would make it pop, if that's what you're going for.

[lunar axle]

Pimping a mini of the month I picked up.

[weak hornet]

I wanna paint some of these

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-matchlock-mage-hunters-x9-184002

[lunar axle]

Painted up a Sha'viðaar Sha'nari, or Breacher, in aquatic camouflage.

[keen gulch]

trying some martyred lady sisters with flayed cherubs, i want ghostly skin and white hair but i didt realise how bad white painting was 😭

[weak hornet]

Anybody got tips for using yellow?

More specifically, having yellow cover good instead of spots?

[regal inlet]

Prime/undercoat in pink.

[cobalt summit]

Undercoat the hottest pink you can find

[weak hornet]

Hmmmm. I have purple.

Can I basecoat in purple then use yellow?

[regal inlet]

Purple will work. I personally use Screamer Pink.

[weak hornet]

I have that

I should start doing that for anything I want to use with yellow.

[cobalt summit]

Single coat of emperors children on black prime, followed by Averland Sunset

[weak hornet]

My god

[regal inlet]

I used Screamer Pink then a yellow. (I forget which as I gave a few) For these.

[weak hornet]

_>. Hobby gods, please stop tempting me to buy more paint

[regal inlet]

Horrible pics as it's nearly 1am.

[cobalt summit]

Did you freehand that banner

[regal inlet]

Printed

I just grabbed a pic of the OG one and cropped it. That mini is old and heavy.

[cobalt summit]

You shoulda lied lmao I absolutely woulda believed. Looks good though.

[regal inlet]

The leg however was freehand.

And yeah the OG Bjorn is awesome. I'm getting a second one whenever it arrive. S

Arrived.

[weak hornet]

Follow up

Why is that out of all the colors.

Yellow is the worst to use by itself?

[regal inlet]

Pigments. Basically the pigments for yellow don't stick to things very well iirc.

[weak hornet]

I see

[regal inlet]

Well and chemistry. Basically there isn't really a chemical pigment that absorbs blue very well but let's green/red pass that can be easily put into a paint. Massive iirc there.

[lilac marsh]

The ones that are good are also fairly toxic

Like cadmium

[regal inlet]

That as well. Or super expensive

[weak hornet]

Rate her fit

[cobalt summit]

Yellow, white, and red tend to be metal pigments, gets real gritty which means easy to streak

The Good White Paint is lead.

There’s a reason we don’t have that.

[regal inlet]

Iirc the good red is cadmium

Which is about as deadly as mercury

[lilac marsh]

Cadmium paint isnt particularly dangerous if you dont airbrush/drybrush it and arent a brush licker

I have some cadmium orange from the art store that I use occasionally and then just seal with varnish to be safe

[regal inlet]

True true. There is another one for red that's bad bad but I Cannae remember it rn.

There's also the one made from mummies that was super good but is now illegal

[cobalt summit]

Chat are we cookin

[crude pumice]

oooh that nmm is pretty

[compact pier]

Cooking!!!

[warm prawn]

Work in progress time! Woo!

[viral arch]

So I've been getting into mesbg

[warm prawn]

Obviously still not done here, but we're making some progress

[glass trellis]

Are they friends or is that demon about to get it's head blown off smooth style

[lime haven]

I hope theyre not friends because thats some horrible barrel discipline if they are

[warm prawn]

They are not friends.

In fact: update with proper posing

[keen gulch]

painting some noise marines, i dont want to ruin them because im not an experienced paiter so im scared of using a shade or something, i will sacrifice one of 6 as a shade test dummy

[cobalt summit]

If its a citadel shade, just shake it a lot like. 4-5min

Washes are pretty easy to repair

[keen gulch]

thanks i will shook more i havent been doing it enough loll

[cobalt summit]

Even if you don’t it just means you fix it with matte varnish later

It’ll be Real Shiny

[weak hornet]

Along with that

drybrush

Drybrush everywhere

[cobalt summit]

Hey anybody know why 99% isopropyl is taking upward of 6hrs to strip primer

I am in hell

[lilac marsh]

Different primers can be more or less evil

Like hardware store spray can vs airbrushed hobby primer

[granite fox]

this ain't karlach, this is crack

(official dnd mini)

[warm prawn]

... I can fix her.
If you bring that to my table, you will be legally required to let me fix her.

[keen gulch]

thank you i have a nice old drybrush but i've never used it, you just drybrush a highlight on right? so like white on pink or a slightly more bright of the same colour?

[lilac marsh]

Generally you don't go straight to white for a dry brush unless you want really harsh highlights

[lunar axle]

In the case of that pink, there's quite a few ways you can play around with it. A reddish or purplish wash in the recesses will give you a lot of depth, and are a great way to push the colour one way or another. Don't be afraid that you'll overdo it, your base colour is quite bright, so punching the brightness down a fair bit only gives you more ways to go up. For highlights, I'm not personally a fan of drybrushing, except maybe on rocky or sandy surfaces, but that's a matter of taste. If you choose to use a shade, using that original pink to highlight the lighter areas back up will already give a bunch of depth and brightness. Should you wish to push it further, you can always mix some white or even a very pale yellow in to go up.

You're using metallics. They're great, nice and shiny. The trick with shiny is that, unless something is actively emitting light, shiny will be the very brightest parts of an object. Highlighting with straight white kind of tells your brain 'hey, this should be shiny,' which will often look strange.

[regal inlet]

Time to make my own transfers. Just got to fill out the sheet!

[keen gulch]

thanj you!i will try some carroburg red and purple on my last 2 marines when i get back

[humble stirrup]

Tbh doing mass produced pre-painted minis always produces ehhh results

You could probably legitimately fix it pretty alright with a new paint job

[lime haven]

STICK HER IN THE SIMPLE GREEN JAR

I was surprised when I got my eyes on some of the battletech prepainted minis and went "wait, I can do better than that" and I have about 2 years of experience

[warm prawn]

I think I'm calling this one finished

[feral kettle]

I made the swords gay

[lime haven]

THEY'RE PUTTING CHEMICALS IN THE FORGE THAT ARE MAKING THE FREAKING PHASE BLADES GAY

[weak hornet]

"THEY MADE THE PHASE BLADES GAY!?"

"How?"

"THEY ARE PINK!"

"...Cryptek Sehemka, please. They're just using some silly crystals from one of the human vassal states."

"I REFUSE!"

"What are you refusing to, you crazy old man!?"

[gleaming shore]

fifty (50) points painted in one day!

imagine! fifty!

[cobalt summit]

Thats a good lookin glow

Phaerakh Approved

[gleaming shore]

it's just a flat basecoat of pro-acryl titanium white covered by striking scorpion green contrast

i considered doing some fancier stuff with wet-blending in darker blue hues and detailing the recesses on the gauss barrels, but then i decided that life was too short for doing that on a 9ppm battleline model

plus, i can be extremely sloppy with the green contrast and pass it off as OSL

[cobalt summit]

I do think necrons are deceptively rewarding of effort

But I feel that as painter of silver tide and endless horde of GSC

[lilac marsh]

Agreed

That being said my glow effects are still pretty lazy

[weak hornet]

If that's lazy

then what's locked in look like?

[lilac marsh]

Actually doing glow and not just using the brightest orange I have

[weak hornet]

I mean

that bright orange is wild

[lilac marsh]

Magmadroth flame contrast over white

[weak hornet]

Nice

[weak hornet]

I have a question.

Is it possible to make pink/pink adjacent colors look 'tactical'.

Yes, it's Canopus lance creation related.

[lime haven]

DAZZLE CAMO
WELCOME BACK

[cobalt summit]

^^^

[lime haven]

also i believe pink can be used in desert camo schemes and is less difficult to paint

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountbatten_pink
huh

[cobalt summit]

Idk that it’s that effective compared to greys, like that article says, but I can also definitely say from living in desert and time at sea there’s a comical degree of times that color would be goddamn invisible like the guy claimed

[humble stirrup]

Yeah some small amounts of pinks have been used in some woodland camouflage

Or some kind of desert or plains ones too

[lunar axle]

Hayes' Heartbreakers use an orangish pink for their frame, with gray armour panels. It works pretty well.

In person it's a little more pink, going slightly closer to a skin tone.

[austere swift]

Some Infinity stuff, playing around with different attempts at NMM

[compact pier]

Andromeda ❤️

Looks ace

[manic raven]

I'm a big fan of low-gradient NMM like that.

It looks very anime

[lime haven]

Man, why is painting hard

Im used to mechs, this cloth stuff is a fuck

[crude pumice]

first attempt at NMM on a combat blade turned out pretty good, I think

[crude pumice]

it definitely takes getting used to

[lime haven]

Definitely going all over the place testing stuff out here.

[feral kettle]

just touchups and basing left!

wait shit I gotta edge highlight the ourple

[lunar axle]

It's rare to see necrons in a colour that isn't primarily metallic, but I like them a lot better this way.

[feral kettle]

they got a lot of fun bits on them to pick out with colour

[lunar axle]

I've found the same to be true with my own mechs. Painting the frame or even the entirety metallic works fine. But once you add a bit more colour, things get much more interesting.

[feral kettle]

Orange and black is a great combo. I love the effect you did on those fluid tubes

[lunar axle]

Thanks. They're the Crystalline power source of the mechs, so they're sort of focal points.

[keen gulch]

warp lightning paint looks tasty

[weak hornet]

I have bought a grail

[humble stirrup]

It’s neat army painter is doing historical colors now, but I’ll probably stick with Vallejo just due to knowing them already

But I’d love to hear your thoughts on how they apply and such

[lime haven]

The fanatic line has been pretty good in my experience so far

[weak hornet]

I'll see how that goes when I use 'em to paint up some of the Cadian shock I'm building.

Which seems oddly appropriate considering the Cadian's creative background.

[lime haven]

Wow I love painting not-mechs

[regal inlet]

Old pic but ngl I just love how this smol bean came out.

[humble stirrup]

A brave warrior of the Iron Sultanate

Also that Opportunity is delightful

[weak hornet]

Look at him. He's unbothered and airtight.

[lime haven]

he's clueless that his captain is about to send him over the top for a minor tactical gain

[humble stirrup]

Damn bro, your commander is making tactical gains at all?

[weak hornet]

I've been stuck with sharing a trench with 689th Penitent Children of Christ Regiment.

They. Have. Been. Constantly. Singing. Hosanna.

Every. Single. Day.

[lime haven]

The Yusbasi know what they're doing round here
(They are sending the faithful to paradise)

[warm prawn]

Okay, gang, a request: how do I fix this without just slapping a million layers of white to cover it up? I really like how the rest of the model is looking.

[lunar axle]

The easiest way is to redo the white but somewhat differently. Using a light grey for a basecoat.

[lilac marsh]

Gently strip the paint?

Or yeah light grey to cover the black then white over that

[lunar axle]

Using a flat white as a basecoat leaves you with nowhere to go for highlights. Mixing a very light grey lets you highlight it later, and the eye will still think it white.

[swift tangle]

Heya folks, quick question about magnetizing some of my minis, is greenstuff alone enough to hold the magnets in place, or should I use superglue too?

I don't have/can't make sprue goo for this unfortunately

[humble stirrup]

Nah I’d say glue them

Especially with how strong some neodymium magnets can be

[lilac marsh]

If you bury it in there it can work

[humble stirrup]

Sure, but glue is usually more reliable

[lilac marsh]

Agreed

[swift tangle]

Aye makes sense

Welp, time to dig my glue out of my crafts bin

[full hinge]

Use super glue yeah

[cobalt summit]

Had some wack superglue run everywhere and leave this milky colored crud, is there a more effective way to get at it than chiseling it off?

It’s not anything super visible but god I’m hoping I didn’t just ruin my aethon shaan

[lime haven]

Iirc some stuff like isopropyl can help destroy superglue and will leave plastic okay

[lilac marsh]

Long isopropyl soak and some scraping

There are superglue solvents too but idk what they do to plastic

[cobalt summit]

Gotcha. I do just have like ten gallons of 99% so thats easy enough

[lunar axle]

Yikes. Did the cap of your bottle decide to take a sudden leave?

[regal inlet]

Last time that happened I used an IPA soaked scalpel and was super careful. Like 1mm at a time careful.

[cobalt summit]

took a sudden leave and then I figured pouring some water would get it clear of the model, which didn't really work. It did and didn't like, get glue all over my hands which is nice, but it left that.

IPA seems to be doing it justice, most of the crud melted before even scraping it.

[regal inlet]

So water is actually a bad idea for supeglue.

[cobalt summit]

As I Recently Discovered

[regal inlet]

I am way too sleepy to explain the actual science behind it, but basically water makers superglue harden faster.

Well most liquids.

It's why supeglue is so good at it's original purpose. Sticking skin together

[lilac marsh]

Superglue is moisture activated lol

[regal inlet]

for those who don't know, superglue was developed originally by the US army iirc for Vietnam.

To replace bandages.

[lilac marsh]

It can't activate without water either from the air or a wetted surface iirc

[regal inlet]

Yeah. Cyanoacrylate substances are wired I had to look into them for my IRP in my forensics degree

[lunar axle]

That's one way to learn that chemistry lesson practically, heh.

[regal inlet]

Yup. Specifically for extraction of fingerprints from knives left in adverse conditions

I was gonna do DNA as well but didn't have the time.

[lunar axle]

Ohh, sweet.

[lilac marsh]

11 models in 2 hours

The lion does not concern himself with letting paint layers dry

[crude pumice]

those look lovely and colourful

love the tentacles(?)

[weak hornet]

Gloss varnished some of my mini's.

Gonna matt varnish them later

[cobalt summit]

Good! Take care of em

[weak hornet]

I will.

[warm prawn]

I have a new favourite Silly Little Guy

[lunar axle]

No arm? No problem.

[lunar axle]

This'll be fun once it's done.

[cobalt summit]

I really should get a paint rack

I just have all my shit in a cardboard box

[regal inlet]

I used to do that.

[lime haven]

I got a makeup rack from target that does the trick. Not perfect, but having a few extra racks is a big deal

[cobalt summit]

We’re at least settling into winter here soon and every tourney is gonna dry up once you literally cannot travel to the next valley over w/o a personal snowplow or snowmobile so I’ll be able to lock the fuck in on hobbying

[crude pumice]

I really need a paint rack atp

I have far too many

[humble stirrup]

I just have them shoved in various plastic tubs lol

[idle girder]

I have the mighty "glued stack of 1 inch pvc"

Does thr job grand

[weak hornet]

So, I plan on priming and painting some skaven later.

All clan rats

How do I do albino Skaven? Ya know something like white flesh with grey fur?

[lime haven]

I don't have a ton of experience with fur yet but with very light colors you usually want to start with a grey or off-white primer

Maybe even a very light pink if you can find it

[weak hornet]

I have grey primer

Army painter brush on

[crude pumice]

for albino leaning towards pinkish flesh and grey-white fur might sell it

[weak hornet]

I see I see

[lime haven]

Typically off white colors are much easier to paint, you want to leave pure white to highlights

So like for the fur, going from grey primer -> beige or off white -> white is a good bet

[crude pumice]

yep

off-white/very light grey is a lot easier to paint with than pure white

(I also have been tending towards using white ink for my white highlights bc its so much nicer than white paint usually)

[lime haven]

For skin you typically get results through a lot of glazing which is not hard but is time consuming

But since their rats you can probably go with a light pinkish color and a good brownish wash and get results

Something like this starts with purple as a base, with pink and red glazes to add depth

(Then stippled white highlights which are fun)

[languid jay]

Hol' up lemme ask my friend with 20,000pts of skaven (this is not a joke)

[humble stirrup]

The Rat-Man….

[languid jay]

He's been collecting the rrrrrats since Mordheim was new and 6e was current.

For white/very light grey I do love the Apothecary white contrast over a very light grey (probably like grey seer or lighter in GW terms), then highlighted/drybrushed with pure white.

[lime haven]

Oh yeah contrast paints do work in this situation

SLAP THAT CHOP

[languid jay]

They do serious work.

Alternatively if you don't have the contrast, a very thinned mid-light grey regular paint as a wash could have the same effect

And maybe for the fleshy bits use a thin thin thin red or flesh wash, like on the snoot, hands/feet and tail?

[compact pier]

I think id be tempted by a very pale pink wash

[languid jay]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/591429239211950081/1428176306347970651/20240327_170217.jpg?ex=68f18c55&is=68f03ad5&hm=118cde3caa710b16ba5bf0cccd96a3a7a3257ef4910fa66a7c802368f7107802&

This is their work. They used Reaper's Vampire Triad set of colors with different washes to give different pale skin effects.

[weak hornet]

Dear god

Tell your friend they're amazing.

[languid jay]

https://www.instagram.com/monstapainting/p/DPxuO4oDuhn/ You can tell'em yourself!

[lunar axle]

I'd personally start from a light beige, wash the skin with pink or even some purple tones for variation, and highlight the fur up to nearly white.

And of course red eyes. Albino individuals will have no melanin produced at all, unlike say leucistic individuals, which will still have melanosomes, but they fail to spread through most of the body.

This is a white from a cold base (Zemo) versus a white from a warm base (The Magician), both can work quite well.

Personally, I'd be inclined to pick a few rats at a time from multiple different units, and paint them in one variation of fur, then pick another bunch and paint them with another variation. Then I'd do the same for the flesh, but with different groups of mixed furs.

[warm prawn]

Somebody please help me finish these Skellyfriends (by giving me PTO and feeding me)

[cobalt summit]

We march together I gotta finish all these today for a GT saturday

[crude pumice]

o7 good luck

[lunar axle]

Working away on my Heartbreakers.

[tropic owl]

I did not know that this channel was a thing

[lunar axle]

Welcome, then.

We've got euh... tiny plastic dudes? Yeah.

[weak hornet]

Sometimes those plastic dudes?

They're tiny little plastic freaks.

[ornate tendon]

Sometimes it’s tiny metal freaks instead

[weak hornet]

Yesssss

And then those tiny freaks are a combination of other freaks.

It's tiny little guy time all the time in the hobby.

[lime haven]

Resin freaks at times as well

[swift tangle]

Hey folks, I'm using brush-on primer for the first time, anyone have any tips for it?

[regal inlet]

Give it a good hour to dry.

Also you will always seem to pour out more or less than you need.

[lime haven]

The lions of Jabir are crazy fun to paint.

[analog citrus]

Bam

[crude pumice]

that fucks immensely

love the classic tau sept scheme

[granite fox]

today is my paint competition so i can share my work

[compact pier]

Hell yes!!! That looks awesome

[cobalt summit]

Really clean and legible details on a pretty cluttered sculpt, nice work

[granite fox]

didnt win but the judges said that i improved like hell since last time

[cobalt summit]

Judges was right thats sick as hell

[cobalt summit]

I shoulda got on sponge brushing way earlier

[lilac marsh]

What sorta sponge are you using?

[languid jay]

Hell yeah sponging is great, especially for chip damage.

It also works shockingly well for fire, like on swords.

I use it for fiery effects on blades.

[cobalt summit]

Literally some $2 artist sponges from Michaels, I wanna get actual makeup sponges for better points and such

[cobalt summit]

Ooooh this is great. I wanted a molten effect on my mining lasers, but couldn’t get it quite right. Think this is the way to go

[languid jay]

Oh makeup sponges are very fine which is good for wide surfaces like that vehicle, but keep some of the "crappier" ones for larger paint splotches like battle damage or the above sword.

[cobalt summit]

Yee I got some more natural texture sponges as well

Good to know, I was thinking in the wrong textural direction in my head for the sword

[languid jay]

Basic steps are cover it completely in white, then a bright yellow, tone it down with a thinned yellow that's slightly darker, then start sponging away from the center. Orange-yellow to orange, red, dark red, and at the very edges do some line highlight with black. You can go back to the center of the blade with that first yellow color and either carefully sponge or dot it on there to make it look bright.

What colors you have will depend on the overall effect of course, but I should think you know your color selection better than I would, hah.