#Miniature painting šØ
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Oh neat
Iāve never been super jazzed about Army Painter (theyāve seemed like Valejo but not as good in my experience), but this is cool
Especially since Army Painter seems more common at games stores
I give props to AP for being willing to listen to feedback and improve their formula.
I also like their washes.
Yeah, they do seem to be definitely working to improve their range
I just had a meh experience using some of their paint previously, but that may not be reflective of their current quality
I haven't given the updated line a try but people are positive, especially the reformulated speedpaint.
Updated line honestly is becoming my new favorite
there's a scant few colors that don't mix well but it's all at least decent, they have a huge range and they're also generally more saturated/versatile than GW paints
Yeah, I have a couple GW paints.
I hate the pots
I hate them
I just do not care for the application.
Yeah, I used to be okay with them, but then I got a wet palette and droppers were incredible
Yep
It's why I ordered a bunch of them on Wednesday.
When they get here I'm gonna empty the pots and put them in there.
PRO TIP: the labels on GW pots come off pretty easy and can be applied to your brand new dropper bottles.
apparently the German kit is also A+ for Sons of Horus
I could see the color overlap on that
Huh
I can see that too
Definitely might see Krieger and Steel Legion players buy the German kit.
British and American fits Cadian
Itās almost like 40k was inspired by a lot of historical armies (and even written by guys who played historical wargames) š¤
It is fun how the guy known for being the biggest historical wargamer ended up being the guy who wrote the most āhistoricalā 40k thing, 30k
I think that a lot of the crunchier wargames get a lot more fun when you start to look at them as history reenactment, regardless of whether that history happened.
Absolutely!
They can also be a good teaching tool, if you combine it with A) a ruleset that doesnāt jerk off one army or another (cough many wwii gamescough) and B) have sometime to actually be explaining with it, such as a specific battle, the era, the stuff being used, ideas of command decisions, etc
Thereās a historical wargames channel Iāve enjoyed, Little Wars TV, that tries to actually include historical background or a specific thing theyāre considering in the game (like an alternate command decision, ways of playing with the command format like asking people away from the board to make overall decisions based on text reports, etc)
I like watching them
Once they had a whole Punic War campaign where they had patrons vote in the āsenateā on who should be leader each turn
Historicals are cool
They are
Because they offer so much kitbashing stuff.
Ya wanna make some tunrip boi's???
Get some Napolenic boi's and some knight boi's.
Go snip-snip with the cutters to take off the pointy helmets and put them on the coats.
And theyāre often (or were, weāll see š¬) pretty cheap, especially at smaller scales
_.>
And small scales are where historicals often really shine
Oh yeah, those tarfs are gonna make the stores barf.
I hope they don't kill the only local LGSes in my county.
They are the only two here
Yeahā¦
I think the first one might be okay because they have a lot of traffic. And they also have a discord server.
So, yeah, there's that. Oh, and they sell comics too. Store is split in half between the Gunpla and BT side with the Comics and Manga side.
The other store. Yeah, I don't know if they'll make it. Not a lot of traffic.
The only downside of historicals is you kinda need to have two armies because you kinda need to do the āhey, you wanna try something different than 40k/infinity/whatever? You can be the British and I can be the French, give it a try!ā to get people interested
But again, especially at 6mm/10mm/15mm those entry prices can be pretty reasonable
Especially when you account for 3D printing, then itās even easier to get people in just ask em to give you some cash in exchange for a whole army
When I have more money Iām seriously gonna look into a UV resin printer
Iām 90% certain Iāve heard of there being at least some 3mm stuff
Itty bitty violence means much larger potential casualty figures
Yessss
and you can imagine ironlily styled blood and chaos.
Hehehehehehehehe
Those cute soldiers just died
...Okay, that was messed up.
I mean, at least the tiny soldiers get to come back for another go
True
Also, to put stuff back on topic, 6/10mm stuff means less overall detail to paint
You wonāt have guys getting on you about the buttons and collar tabs lol
āOh hey, that sure is Russian green, and those guys sure are in Napoleonic Blueā
"I work for a living. Take my color choices or face no battle."
But yeah Iām a bit interested in trying Fistful of TOWs at some point, which would mean getting a smaller scale modern army eventually
Probably, but itās playable basically from WWI to now
But Cold War seems to be its bread and butter
i've thought about getting into historicals in the past
but honestly the main barrier for me is that almost all of the most popular post-1800s time periods and rulesets and models will involve me having to lovingly purchase, craft, and assemble The Racist Army
I regret to inform you basically all of the pre-1800s armies were that
okay, true, The Extra Racist Army
But more seriously if youāre not into historical wargaming thatās okay
it does vaguely interest me, but again, if i engage with any ruleset from either of the most popular timeframes (world war 2, american civil war) it'll put a regiment of painstakingly painted and detailed nazis / confederates on my shelf, hitting cool action poses
and that feels gross
Well, first off you donāt have to play the nazis in any WWII system
And also Napoleonic are overall more popular than ACW
For that general time period I mean
But again, if you donāt feel comfortable playing historicals, thatās fine too
if i were to get into it, it'd need to be a setting further back
I mean, I would say for gunpowder stuff Napoleonic are pretty neat
possibly even pre-napoleonic
But if you want more melee focus you could do ancients
Like Greeks/persians/etc
Rome and Gaul and Egypt for a little forward of that
Well, Egypt spans a lot of stuff
Thereās also naval games, which can be real fun
as something to pitch to my local group, grounding it in somewhat obscure british history sounds promising, lots to work with there
Either age of sail or battleships
the heptarchy, the norman invasion, the war of the roses, the (other) civil war
For British stuff, age of sail is always a big winner
Or yeah thereās medieval stuff too
Some Renaissance pike and shot stuff too
Like my history focus professionally Iām more interested in stuff 1800s+ myself so I couldnāt exactly recommend specific rulesets, and there also a bajillion of em ranging from big āprofessionalā stuff to āpassion project by a guy for his game group that he also decided to publishā
Basically history is big and full of military history, so you got a lot of wargame choices
The one snag is finding people (or bullying/persuading people into being) who are into the same ones you are
what's the deal with SAGA? it seems big and well-supported and accessible but skimming the ad read makes it sound much more in the post-warhammer tradition than anything
āMaster and Commander screenings will continue until you all agree to play a age of sail naval combat wargames with meā
Honestly, not aware of it
For something sorta like what SAGA seems to be, thereās the free skirmish game Ravenfeast. Itās meant for kinda Viking stuff, but the creators also have a modifier to play the series of battles leading up to the Battle of Hastings, since you mentioned the Norman Invasion
Iāve not played it myself, but Iāve watched people play it and it seems pretty good for a simple game (and itās free)
Also oh no, I forgot this was miniature painting not the wargaming thread
Has anybody here messed with making their own transfers? Iām kinda thinking about DIYing some mini-scale posters and flyers and whatnot
Covering a goliath truck in little gsc agitprop posters seems like a funny idea
Well, there's transfer sheets you can buy to print your own and I'm sure there's plenty of fan-made templates.
If you're doing actual like, posters you can print out ones and just glue them on. Mod podge works best for that.
Oh true, didnt think of just doing it for real
Elf of āYou are now molten slagā
He deserves the good paint job B because he solo'd a shadowsword over the course of 3 rounds
king of punching above his weight class
Corpro - Mantis biome ship guards.
A squad for MECHCOM, my own tabletop game.
Some minis for D&D tomorrow. Swamp Thing will serve as a yeti, to distract my players from hunting their main target: a young white dragon.
I'm not a fan of these official D&D minis, but as long as the eyes work, the rest of the mini tends to be alright.
It's a bit of a side effect, but it works well enough that I might not varnish over it after all.
hiiiio brutes
Those look fun. The colours give them a sort of classic oldhammer vibe.
Yeah, so, I'm never gonna rely on Amazon for hobby again.
They lost my droppers and dry brushes.
Imma refund
Bald people lineup like breaking bad got rebooted
Think I got a good spectrum of ourple directly correlating to amount of freaky mutant
do people get crabby about painting canon character units in the wrong colours, i am not sure what i want to do with ushoran because he looks amazing either way, also the contrast between my army may be nice anyway
the very idea of people getting upset about that upsets me a little
I'm sure someone out there would but i don't think anyone worth interacting with cares what color any of your models are
Surely, canon characters have more than one set of clothes in their closet.
actually I care what colour all your models are but in the opposite of the way you probably meant "care"
I am literally not sure I could tell you Big Ush's canon colors, the FEC subreddit goes wild with him 24/7 and you should absolutely embrace the urge to do him up in theme with Your Dudes
there's like six of em at my LGS and they're all very different paintjobs
thank you paint confidants <3
An update. My package is labeled lost but the tracker now says it's in an Amazon facility. Let the dropper revolution begin...Delayed.
Assuming it's this model I'm seeing, what's there even to complain about? That the vampire skin tone is different, or that he decided to maybe wear a purple cape and tattered iron armor instead of a red cape and tattered bronze armor?
Okay, and now the system is saying the package is being returned to the seller.
Yeah, I'm taking the L on this.
Oof
Yeah
It's so weird
First, it shipped and then got delayed for five days
Then, I got a notification telling me it got to San Antonio and then got shipped to a carrier facility in my county.
And right now, it's being returned to the seller for some reason. I wonder if it got damaged somehow.
In the future I would recommend avoiding amazon yeah, still really shitty tho
Yeah, I'm gonna be using Amazon as a last resort from now one.
And it also sucks because I was planning on getting some more Citadel paints and putting them in the droppers that were ordered.
Using one of the dark metallic speed paints on pale gravel really helps sell the idea of grave sands I think.
The Red Brigade!
Hell yeah
Also, the whole ensemble looks GUHREATO
I need some inspiration: what colours should my LI knights be?
(There's also some lancers and questoris, not pictured)
A dark teal base could be fun.
Gold and teal does sound good...
i really wish i could get better pictures but my camera/setup is ass. it won best model and best army for me at my last tournament (my only other finished model is an unbased armiger). my army was the lancer, two questoris, 4 armigers and some "sisters of battle", mostly unpainted.
trans desolator(?) is sick as fuck actually thats peak
Finally finished up my full ten ash waste nomads, here's the most recent 6 and a full lineup of all 10
phew those are preeeetttyyy
Thanku!
my mfw the model has osl 
Desecrator in that pic yeah but fully magnetised abhorrent box. Rampagers are fun
Also just a few more angles of the tyrant because, whilst the paint still needs finishing please ignore that I have done nothing on it for about 18 months, model-wise I'm still very happy with the Tyrannosaurus Mechs. Considering the state it cake to me in anyway... (regular tyrant caked in like 2-3mm of paint all over)
Thats awesomeee
Urple
Gene Stealer and Jean Stealer looking good.
I need to get back to painting my gsc
Great lookin sculpts across the entire army once you get past the labor hurdle
Itās an unfortunate hurdle
Because damn are they full of detail but oh no they are full of detail
This + 3 ridgerunners is what I gotta paint for a tourney by mid June
Iām Feeling It
Looks pretty spicy. For a tournament?
that's a lot of painting
Picked my colours in the end, realised I had nothing inspired by my fav MtG faction and decided House Nivix needed to exist.
Looks great!
And that's all the base colours down
When I get home from holiday, then things will get nicer.
Heck yeah
Finally finished these guys, first fully painted guys I have finished in years.
And thier boss
I love how my undercoated models next to a fully painted one make them look like a cheap knockoff
Cryptek: Can we have necrodermis please
Necron Lord: We have necrodermis at home
Necrodermis at home
Test printing some more minis for MECHCOM.
For air brushes, how essential is specialized containers for cleaning the brush out?
As in, something to spray cleaning fluid into
Is a tupperware thingy enough or do you want a specialized piece?
Uhh
The main benefit of the specific pot is like
Less mess
And some filtration
Theyre fairly inexpensive I think though
The little bottles with a hole to spray cleaner into are pretty nice for how cheap they are, keeps your whole work area from smelling like airbrush cleaner
I do keep a separate trash can next to me to dump out excess paint, qtips, papers towels etc into
Any recommended brands?
Any random Amazon brand is probably fine
They're usually glass jars with a plastic lid and a little metal bracket to set the brush on
So, I was stripping paint.
Was letting the mini's airdry before taking them inside.
Somehow a wasp or something got into one of the empty jars. It choked on IPA fumes.
Time to actually finish painting half of the squads I made.
Yeah, this is a much better start than the green.
Now properly shiny.
Trying to manage a hologram look on the Nexos - highlighted yellow fluorescent paint over that teal, I think it came out decently eye grabbing
Are these alpine themed IG?
They're loosely themed around the Irish Citizen's Army, which is where I took the paint scheme from.
The ratling sculpts are just what I had available
that teal and gold is banging
Oh row the Ratling bog...
With the Blackhawks, that's half of my I.C.S.E. list repainted. Hopefully I can finish the other half in time for game night.
Been doing some decals on planes lately.
Yo those look sick! I love the bases, very well done
Thank you!!
Yeah, the paint is quite nice but the basing really pushes them over the top!
Neophyte squad WIPs
Do not batch paint 60 GSC models you will keel over from the tedium
Bisexual disaster ghosties want you to join their polycule
like these color choices
Got my base coat down on my tiny Marines and now they're ready for brushwork
anybody have any tips for assembling resin models?
i just had the worst experience of my life (a mildly frustrating 20 minutes) trying to glue together a nightbringer proxy
the limbs have little square nubs and holes which do not help in the slightest for assembly, and the glue seemed to just squeeze right out of the interface and bind together nothing at all
- Make sure the model has been scrubbed with warm soapy water; sometimes there's residue left over either from the mold release or the printing process.
- Super glue only! That's obvious but worth repeating.
- Baking soda is a very handy trick to use sometimes. Apply super glue, press parts together, sprinkle with baking soda; it'll bind it near-instantly and be rock-hard within a few minutes. Can easily be sanded.
- If you have to, pin that shit.
Definitely sounds like either mold release left over or that you were using plastic glue instead of super glue.
One other thing that really helps, beyond what Slimnoid said is scoring contact areas with a hobby knife to increase surface area. It'll help the super glue hold more strongly.
Agusta team to provide some spotting and long range support to my I.C.S.E. squad.
space at&t is coming 
Question for those with large amounts of paint. Any advise on storage? My desk is getting very small š
I use 3d printed paint racks
that spiked club is so fucking good
chaos is SLAM-DUNKING the power mace game
Been standing for two hours because of scrubbing.
Why. Does. Paint. Have. To. Be. A. Stubborn. Bastard?
Soak it more
When I stripped my zeus I'd take some off, leave, repeat for about 2 weeks to clean off primer
I'm not going to resoak them iso again.
There's only little bits of primer left that can be covered over with wraithbone.
But there really should be a better stripping solution than using something that can cause heavy staining.
Simple green works alright
I have this simple green degreaser. It's purple. It's absolutely incredible for stripping paint. I most have metal minis as an infinity player, but I've stripped several plastics with no adverse effects, though I am careful to not leave plastic minis in there more than an hour or two just in case. I've left bases and things in there for days and they're fine but usually not the same plastic
Test group for my 8mm thousand sons.
Probably need a highlight on the greys and something to bring up the tops of the red but I'm still super happy with them.
Yeah at 8mm those look sick
Theyāre pretty crazy detailed
It's a challenging scale. I find 6mm infantry to be pretty easy as there's not enough detail to do much more than a solid color plus maybe a gun and a head/helmet different, but this little bit larger and you can actually see all the detail, so it makes me want to put the extra effort in
Yeah definitely
So, stripping off more paint
Put the ones with little blotches or stubborn bits in 50 proof bath
The others are in the 91 proof bath
Sepulchres are ready for the table
Strangely cozy-looking
what's your favourite neon green, chat
i'm planning an experiment where I paint a bunch of sprue pieces pro acryl titanium white and then try out a bunch of green contrast paints, to see which one works best for my necron hyperphase weaponry
Vallejo Green Fluorescent is great, same with GW Tesseract Glow.
Scalecolor inktense lime
Tesseract glowās a little bit hard to mix but fuck does it scorch my eyes good
Havenāt messed with other brands so if people rec those Iād still mess with em
Oh yeah Tesseract loves to stick to the bottom, but an agitator tends to mitigate the worst of it.
So, might reprime some of my mini's later.
How does Wraithbone primer do and what does it do to base colors?
Depending on how thin the coat over it is, yeah
Itās also a contrast primer, but they may have made all of them compatible since I last checked
It's a fairly solid basecoat for most things. Little warm. Quite useful.
I swear by wraithbone for stuff I want any warm colors on whatsoever
Iāll use white for stuff like ctan shards still or tanks but once thereās organic stuff might as well just use wraithbone
Finished up a kroot friend that's been sitting half painted for way too long
I finally got the new soulblight faction terrain.
This shit has a ton of detail that gets closed off but remains visible. I may need to paint it on the sprue.
really dialing these in
So, I printed up about a squad of Marines (not an actual squad as is laid out in marine order of battle, any marines Iām deeply sorry and will say nice things about Chesty Puller if you agree not to get mad) and a squad (again, sorta) of PLANMC dudes as well as a mortar team, MMGs, and drone for each using the designer of Down Rangeās model designs. Standard Reference Tin of Shokakola included for scale.
I kinda enjoy the hotdog people look of the models at the smaller scale, since theyāre more representational than hyper detailed, which would likely make it easier to get people interested in trying the game if the models are very simple to paint and print.
Also, @full hinge, I know we talked about what scale the system is for, and based on the default model size being 18mm tall and 15mm at approximate eyeline, it seems itās definitely meant to be 15mm
oh yep definitely
Only issue with the models is the barrels can potentially snap based on how the support struts are clipped off (ask me how I know) and the plate carriers have a bit of an empty gap between them and the body, meaning they can potentially chip
Also I had a fucked up print on the PLANMC MMG, but Iām gonna put that down to some kind of printer fuckup rather than the STL, having only printed one of them so far
Itās still usable, just weird looking
Also, question for the painting community: Iām gonna be painting up the minis I posted above, and while I have a general paint scheme for MARPAT from another project I worked on, Iām wondering what I should do with the PLANMC guys
Since they currently use a weird-ass blue digital camo, but are transitioning to yet another knockoff of multicam along with the rest of the PLA in the very near future. Basically just wondering whatās yāall thoughts on which I should do
Well, I guess there's two questions there. Are you trying to depict a certain time period? And which one do you like better?
Honestly the sculpts are so abstract that Iād go for solid colors that approximate the patterns
ie. tan for desert MARPAT with coyote flak and kevlar, versus blue for PLAN type 07 with green kit
Nah, you can do a general approximation on stuff like this fine, Iāve done it before
Youāre not doing it down to the actual pattern with teeny tiny pixilation, just stripes or stippling
Generally since itās for an ultramodern game, Iād say Iād be interested in semi-future proofing it, but also the oceanic camo is rather odd and inexplicable enough that itās kinda fun
However theyāre also phasing out the QBZ-95 bullpup for a more traditional AR-ergonomics rifle, so I guess the models using the QBZ-95 already kinda-sorta dates them to this era
Having thought on this by talking it through, Iām probably gonna go for the Type 07 camo
Which means I now need to figure out an approximation of its colors
Iām also very surprised that some mild googling hasnāt turned up anyone who seems to have tried to paint Type 07 Naval, which isnāt great since Iām not very good at figuring out paint schemes
Slowly working away at the Inhuman Royal Court. Just a few more bits and bobs, mostly blacks and NMM.
Aberrant skintone test
finished all my tacticals
Da craaaaaaab
beeg crustacean
You lined the HELL out of those panels! š
thank you. This took 6 hours, 3 monsters and 2 ibuprofen.
Sounds like a normal workday for me (rimshot)
Thatās so much better than mine
Hey donāt put yourself down
Recipeās easy, nothing more complicated than a wet palette and using a shitload of medium to glaze it
Primed bone ā> Pallid Wych Flesh, blended in hexed purple or dechala lilac -> xereus purple -> naggaroth night
Once that was all done washed the whole thing in AP magenta tone so itād be a little more cohesive
man, wish I could finish that many mechs in 6 hours lol
Nah I mean the panel lining alone š

Cool
Took some new pictures of an old project
Badab War Night World Camo Howling Griffon Veteran Sergeant :)
Imperial knight atlas found his brother thunderbolt :>
I was told to join

Welcome
Anyhow, if you have specific questions about how to paint specific types of guys, how to do the actual painting thing, etc weād all be more than happy to help here
I have been converted, by the hopes of starting a FoW group at my FLGS
I have bought.... several boxes of minis
Like, if you have a specific type of guy I can probably hunt up a tutorial or two for you since WWII minis are very popular
I have the Hit the Beach set, basically
So, 1944 era US Army and Germans?
Yup
Alright hold on a minute or two
Got a lotta infantry, German tanks in variance, and 19 Shermans
So, this is a āspeed paintā tutorial, which is basically flow-ier paints that create definition by settling heavier in crevices. While itās for a 28mm dude, the principle is still the same.
https://youtu.be/BOTnNmGZY7Y
By popular demand (it's been a while since I've had to say that!) comes the second in what should, by rights, turn into a relatively long-running series of sorts. Quite by accident, no less! Questions abound about painting WWII infantry of each and every nation involved, "How do I paint them with Contrast?" Well, Contrast not being alone on the ...
Army Painter has also come out with historical paint sets and tutorials for WWII as well: https://youtu.be/Vg8D3TR5his
Unleash the power of Democracy with this step-by-step painting tutorial for the WWII American forces! Learn how to paint the iconic drab of the American forces with the era-specific colours of their new Warpaints Historical box set.
This set features 20 Warpaints Fanatic colours, 6 of which are unique paints that are only found within the Warpa...
This is a more traditional approach
I see, I see
Thereās a bunch more video tutorials out there, just remember that youāre working at a bit smaller scale, so go for the bigger stuff and stress the belt buckles and such less
And again donāt feel like you need to do everything at once, you can work on just getting everyone base coated and then work form there
The one big thing is to be aware of how thick youāre putting the paint on and not overdo it, itās better to do something in a few coats than all at once
(Except for stuff like contrast/speed paints, but theyāre kinda their own things)
Anyhow, weāre all here happy to help out
And donāt stress if your first few guys donāt live up to your highest expectations, youāll get better at it the more you work on it
The infantry is based in 4s, so I kinda want to finish them before I base em
Kickasss
Painted my scrungaloid which came out a bit damaged cause my printer FEP borked but I love her anyway :)
It just makes them skrunglyier
her head hurty need ibuprofen :<
Yes š„ŗ
Yeaaaaahhhh!
One of us
Have you played yet?
Yep! Played a couple games last Thursday
Yup, that's the starter kit
(there is also the "Beginner Box", but that's baby rules)
Mhm, we got given the spiel when deciding what box to grab
Not saying baby rules bad, just, it's fundamentally a different game
Energy weapons, for one, are significantly better
Well probably be picking up the other boxes but first weāre getting these 8 mechs down
And still canāt decide how weāre going to paint them
No clue
Never played Stellaris?
We have yeah, off an on
Uh. No clue
We were honestly thinking of creating our own mercenary band as a background for these mechs
Not a terrible shout. The setting very much supports that
Mhm
Mercenaries are a great way to go.
Anything goes for paint schemes, and the wildest combinations of mechs happen with 'em.
Not that most of the rules care about which faction you use which mechs with. That's a flavour thing.
My own AGOAC box got the Flying Circus treatment. Every mech got a unique paint scheme, from stolen/traitor Great House scheme to C3PO with missiles.
Who was 3POed?
Yeah mercenaries and pirates are mmmmwah
Mercs can also have a very fun "found story" with them based on what mechs you end up putting the paint on
My first scheme ended up being a FedComm aligned group because of the valkyrie, banshee 3S, and Sagittaire that I painted up for them.
I like to think that their story ends in the Jihad in one last act of unmercenary-like valor.
Found 'em.
Finished up a few more kroot friends :3
I stared at yellow for so long today but im proud of his glyph! im trying to do one for each of the brutes in his squad
Yooo these look so good!!!
Love the warpaint and osl on the skinner
Huh... guess theres a mini painting channel, never noticed.
I did some Minis an painted them too.
One of the most enjoyable painting experiences I had in quite some time... which says more about my way of painting than my way of making minis^^
New approach: Use the Airbrush for what I don't enjoy painting instead of for the parts that it's best at.
So, I need some advice.
I live in Texas and I've been trying to prime my min's but the spraying hasn't gone well due to the heat/humidty.
They get primed but it takes a pain in the ass to do it.
Anyway, way I can try to reduce the issue with both heat and humidity?
I can't do air brushing in the house because things are already cramped in my office/painting space.
Unfortunately, probably just gotta wait until it gets better weather-wise unless you got somewhere else you can go to do it
Nope
Well, there's a shed but it's poorly ventilated and only used for storage.
I'm able to prime them its just they get that fuzzy look. And I know it's not the end of the world because all the detail is still there.
But I hate the fuzzy look
Yeah, it sucks, sometimes the weather just doesnāt cooperate
Got a friend with a garage that isnāt 10 degrees hotter than the outside?
All the brush ons have been purchased
No spray paint fumes to worry about
Haven't worked well?
No, I mean like all the brush on primers have been bought by other people
Even the LGS with army painter was emptied out.
But there was a regiment of primed guardsman in Maccrage Blue.
I don't know why someone would prime IG in blue
Ohhh
Iād just order some
Lifesaver in Texas summers and Montana winters, speaking firsthand for both
so much paint, so many options
so much executive dysfunction
Ideaā¦
Yesssssssss
Dew it
Call this lance...The House of The Wandering Nova
Or maybe something like House of Pronouncement
Lookin' yery Marik
GSC progress now versus May 1st
We are Getting There
Whole army in a month not quite but close
Not quite there but unfortunately itās late and we had to stop
Will probably add some gold on some of the ridge points (cockpit bracing, parts of the arm guards, etc)
Gold on white looks incredibly crisp, I think its a good idea
I'm sorry how many rockgrinders
how do you have so many goliaths
also man you've painted more this year tha I have like at all
Wait yeah holy shit
Full playset of rockgrinders, weapons fully magnetized across goliaths and ridgerunners
Remember the other month that guy was sellin some 6k of GSC all at 50% off or better, I bought half of it and then he decided he was keeping the rest for diorama fodder
I shoulda gone all-in on the neophytesā¦
For the last month I have not gotten a single hour of videogames its been work, sleep, eat, paint baldoids š«
Also FWIW I had a leg up (leg down?) October -> April 15th I was out on workers comp, for a long time I couldnāt really walk or leave the house so 12hrs a day paint mode was the way to stay sane
Oh I more meant the amount of Rockgrinders
Hahaha
jealous... I'm aiming to grab it tomorrow if not later today
Ohhh very nice! But I can't actually do anything with it until August! It's officially my birthday present from my parents. But they also know sweet FA about 40k
Also have 'Soka
niiice
Getting somewhere finally
Desperately need a better lamp
Iām currently limited by the daylight and weather on the balcony lol
Might as well repaint some old minis to use for D&D. This little one day project will serve as a miniboss for my party.
Got my next kill team done up for a league
Gorgeous baldoids
I dig the purple -> yellow on the patriarch, I was trying to go for that with mine and just couldnāt swing it in a way that stayed bright/clear
Just a steady process of gradually adding more yellow, then white to my mix as I did drybrush passes over the brain and brow
Canāt really decide what else to add so this is pretty much done. Basically just the base and possibly doing a wash
Iād say that you almost always want to do a wash tbh
Also look over for spots to touch up before that
We are seeing more we could touch up but we donāt have the paints to do so on hand
Deffo give it a nuln oil wash if you want it more grimy, Reiksland fleshade for slightly brother.
Because we were dumb and forgot to bring them
Brighter but still shaded.
A wash over the LRM rack will really help the chest get defined. Careful using a black wash over the white bits though - if you have a grey one that won't ruin your nice basecoat
Yeah you do need to consider how theyāll change the color of the base colors
New stuff acquired
About to make my first paint buy!
Finally gonna try painting my new dredge scheme
Please wish me luck
It's a little darker in person
Pros: Paint scheme looks solid enough
Cons: Camera is shit
The actual armor is Rhinox Hide to look like leather or something similar
Followed by Runelord Brass, Leadbelcher and a generous sharing of Dirty Down
Ouhhh Rust
These are both the same chapter
And they are also tests for my paint schemes so theyre a little hasty
very nice rust
hexagons š
That's how you know they're the high-tech faction.
Behold! The magic of decals!
My thousand sons command bases for Epic Armageddon
What's Epic Armageddon?
Old 6mm 40k game.
Like 1988 old.
Yeah. For at least 2 decades, maybe 3
Ah, well
Though there is now Legonis Imperialis, which uses a lot of different rules but is still "Epic" scale.
Ah, gotcha
Anyway
I should be posting minis here Soonā¢ļø
Should be getting paint Friday
Epic isn't supported officially by GW but fans have kept that light goin' for years.
The one that gets the most support and most activity is Net Epic, which is a continuation of the 4e/Armageddon ruleset (the last set of rules from GW). It's a relatively cleaned-up set of rules compared to 2e. 2e is much more detail-oriented and has just, a bunch of flow charts and "crunch" to it that has a certain feel to it--a lot more models and armies have distinct flavors, but it's a more complicated ruleset that takes longer to play.
It's community maintained still, but Epic: Armageddon came out in 2003. That said these are actually Legions Imperialis releases so the minis are current.
Plenty of Tau files out there. I'm thinking of pulling some together next year. My Guard are styled as Gue'vesa
Ahhh I was gonna say that they looked like Li. But passed out first.
The only thing that's kind of rough right now is Legions is 8mm and most Epic files (and old minis) are 6mm. On bases for infantry you can't really tell on the table but with vehicles and titans you definitely can.
My group has decided to adopt the 8mm scale complete and just scale up print stuff that's not in production
As a little follow up, Legions is very based in Epic 2nd edition, which we didn't get into for the aforementioned reasons. The consensus for my group is that Armageddon hits a sweet spot in terms of detail, the blast markers do morale better than most games, and because of the size and smoothness it captures the fantasy of the Warhammer setting much better than what any of us got out of mainline 40k or other GW games.
NGL never played any of them because there is noone near my who does...
That was me for quite a while. I never have really vibed with 40k communities either, when they were available. My Epic group is a small subset of my local Infinity community, rather than coming out of the GW communities.
Very nice! 40k has lost its charm for me ATM.
Been playing Star wars legion via TTS a lot recently and thats so much more fun. Same for BA
awesome camo!
I used to play flames of war with my dad, and i've had a passing interest in WWII gaming since then, but BA isn't quite it for me.
We've discussed putting together a rules-light hack of Infinity for WWII skirmishes
but i think im most interested in playing WWII in 6-10mm and running large battles
Epic was the first miniatures game I was exposed to and also the one I have not actually played, and one day I might actually try it.
Das some beautiful Aleph..
How do you mean, as primer or just as a color?
Because most modern paints are meant to get pretty good coverage and color regardless of the base coat
As a color
Like I'm thinking of seeing how Olive drab looks on a black primed mini compared to a white primed one.
Unfortunately I donāt have anything to hand, especially since itās gonna be different between paint lines
But the main difference is it might be slightly darker on a darker undercoat
Basically Iād look up some videos of people painting with the specific color you want
Because spraying in Texas is too much work
I know. I have been watching the humidity index as a hawk whenever I get home.
It go 50
Do you not have a garage or friends garage that might be a bit better insulated?
I spray
No garage
And I can't do it in the house because my parents would kill me.
Also unless you have a extraction hood, an airbrush will also have some fume issues (though less so)
No unfinished basement or workroom?
Nope
There's the shed but it isn't ventilated
I can still spray prime outside
It's just right now, my box got eaten by the wind
and wind ate the brick that was holding the box
You don't even have to vent to outside though, just extraction hood into hepa grade 8 or better furnace filter
Itāll be a bit darker and a bit less saturated, but it gets you to a pretty good basecoat for anything you want kinda earthy
Yeah, I just meant that you need a bit of settup
Since sometimes people just run em without thinking about what theyāre breathing in
Iāve become more cognizant of this kind of stuff as Iāve grown older
That's why I always wear my respi even when outside
I actually dunno how I feel abt camoshade, Iād use a black or dirt wash
Agrax, my beloved
On white prime Iād use camoshade, its just Very Green Still yknow
Agrax, my dune.
I want you⦠to squeeeze- oh wait oh no, now the wash is everywhere this wasnāt a good idea at all oh dear
Dang it. You got wash all over my sandwich.
The painting gods didn't want me eating herbs and cheese bread today.
Yeah the acrylic paint just turns into dust after it dries but dust is still icky
Rover?
Opportunity!
Finished the rest of the marines
"Can I offer you a spybot in these trying times?"
Now that the tourneyās over I can go back and start the fun parts instead of basecoating a bajillion baldoids
I'm feeling it!
Trying to print up a Bradley IFV on the local library filament printer to see how it turns out. They also have a resin one, but Iām trying to see how good the results are on the cheaper option first
Iāll show how it comes out when I get it
Hey so I got Belissarius Cawl recently and uhhh, I'm terrified to assemble and paint it. Any tips on any problem areas or sections I should paint before assembling?
What scale? Iām an optimist but Iāve yet to be satisfied with any FDM-printed 1:100 armor thus far
Resin is a whole other story, those come out Fuckin Great
Itās 1:100, yeah
Latest FDM attempt:
Love resin, mostly doing this to see how it turns out since I know itād turn out great in the resin
Itās just itās more expensive and there are no infill options due to how it works, Iām paying for a whole resin brick
True facts
Yeah, I tried doing one of the lil hotdog soldier guys in FDM and the crazy heavy supports and layer lines made me ehhh on how much I value the slightly cheaper cost for them
Also these are the models, I think theyāre rather delightful: https://www.printables.com/@nroyer/models
Theyāre very much just meant to be representational, but that also makes em easy to print and give out to people to get them interested in the game
And theyāre kinda less intimidating to some people who might find a less abstract modern wargame potentially a bit uncomfortable
Iām hoping since the Bradley is pretty much just made up of slabs itāll come out better than something a bit more greebly might
Took a sec cause they blimmin unlisted it but I followed this tutorial for mine and found it good iirc https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zN-qL8nPrcE&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.belloflostsouls.net%2F&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY
In this video Duncan shows you how to paint the amazing Belisarius Cawl miniature including useful tips on painting the metal and how to break it down in to useful sub-assemblies.
In terms of subassembly, order of operations, etc
Oh thank you that should be helpful!
No worries <3
Why would they unlist it???
Duncan's in it and he not only doesn't work for GW, but puts out his own competing line of paints.
Was about to say, isn't it Duncan's tutorial?
Have they unlisted all of his videos now?
The nights work.
What exactly do you mean with "there's no infill because of how it works"?
Because while there's usually no infill in the traditional filament way, it's pretty common to hollow out larger resin models and put a little hole or two in the bottom to drain them. That can save you a fair bit of resin and weight, and works quite well.
Yeah, but Iād have to get in and design them myself
And I am not very knowledgeable on how to do that
I need hobby safety advice
All right, so, there is a dog. It is a terrier of some kind and it has decided to live in my backyard.
Very friendly.
Steal the dog, it is now your dog, next question. /j
But since there is a small animal that follows me (very adorable). I am concerned about the primer spray fumes hurting it.
(And it also tried to bite the nozzle of some ant poison spray).
Honestly maybe just try having someone distract it to the other side of the yard if thatās an option
Yeah Iād say just do it when itās not there or is away from you
My brother wants to adopt him but we need to call the city and check if he (the dog) isn't missing.
Itās probably not great of it gets a face full but also probably wonāt do anything permanent the same as you
I think birds are the main pet you need to be super careful with aerosols
Oh I was just giving an example
the dam things somehow are attracted to the fumes?
Yeah there can be all sorts of chemical stuff that bugs get attracted to
Carbon dioxide is a big one , but thereās a bunch of other stuff as I recall
Yeah
Basically anything that smells like or is similar to the stuff theyāre attracted to
I dunno much more than that, I aināt a bug scientist
Me neither
If I can't spray anymore I'll just order some brush-on from Pro
Or check the other LGS that stocks nearly exclusively with Army Painter.
Draining the IPA from my stripping jars is going to be a problem
very pretty
Stilty
Locust 
Anybody used the laser plants from gamers grass before? Working on jungle basing and figuring out the best places to go. Sponge foliage n moss shrubs arenāt getting the jungle vibe, but also good lord its gonna be a lot of laser plants to base a GSC army
Auuuuggghhh the Bradley print came out overall okay except for some of the most absurd amount of extraneous supports Iāve ever seen, Iām really gonna have to see if either flipping what side it prints on or just going in there and seeing if I can make it not go into āabout as much supports as modelā mode
It seemed mostly fine other than that, but goddamn I spent about 4 hours trying to clip and cut those things off, Iām pretty sure they dulled the blades
It looked pretty okay before I had to get in an take off line upon line upon line of supports
I'm assuming your using a filament printer? Might want to check your settings, I had problems like that before I made some changes now it auto-places a lot less extraneous supports
Yeah, they have a resin one too but Iām trying to see if I can get good results from the filament as itās cheaper
Some of the newer filament printers give really solid results. I got a Bambu A1 mini recently that rivals my resin printer at times. The biggest issue is the shape of the model to be printed, FDM printer supports are still terrible in my experience. A little better than they used to be but still painful and detail ruining.
you can do resin to fdm supports that are pretty good but honestly my biggest recommendation is to cut the model into easier to print parts that use no or little supports and just glue the part together
for bigger prints like tanks and stuff i get really get results that are comparable to resin with a little bit of sanding and some automotive filler primer
A seller I bought a not-rhino from did just that and y'know what? It works! A bit odd but both parts lined up well.
Huh, interesting
In my case one of the big the issue was it did a line of supports over the goddamn road wheels of the tank, like a whole layer right in front of them
Had to pick it apart bit by bit
And thatās adding to the whole series of honeycomb-like supports elsewhere
I do appreciate all yāallās recommendations
getting into scratchbuilding terrain with foam, cardboard, wood, etc.
for Maleghast in particular
and I think instead of trying to do fancy magnets and stuff to make sure terrain pieces stay in place, since a lot of my cuts are uneven and I'm going to have to work around those 'tolerances'. I think I'm just gonna use sticky-tack to secure pieces together temporarily lol
definitely gonna have to make sure any painted stuff has a good varnish/finish though
So this is for anyone who has used stuff from Monument Hobbies.
Do you need to thin down their brush on primer or can you use it straight from the bottle?
Generally you don't thin brush primer at all
Just make sure your coats are thin
I airbrush it with very minimal thinning
All righty
Shinji get in the plague marine
The gangs almost all here
we love our finnish mechs
What mechs? All I see is a pile of snow!
The tilting shield fits well
Armored car! What kind?
They say it's a puma
Looks more like a Warthog to me
Current WIP. Need to figure out how to do the floor and finish the crate.
Went with little lines as if there are power and fuel lines under the deck
Oh, that's cool
The lines kinda read as guide/touring/direction lines at a facility. Like red leads to the Operation floor/area, grey is for administrative department and blue is for the apothecary or something
I like that idea
This is a PC for my Traveller campaign, but I'll probably re-use it for anything sci-fi or cyberpunk I run š
Got signed up to make another try at using the filament printer at the library, hopefully fiddling with the supports settings like yāall suggested will make it a less miserable experience this time
Also realized I forgot to show what the Bradley I printed looked like, it was overall a pretty good result, itās just the road wheels got kinda mauled by having to chip away a layer of supports right in front of and behind them (and was also a really miserable time getting all the supports off, took several hours in all)
From a few feet away it looks quite good, I just hope the next one is less of a pain to get the supports off
Hey, would potentially having the hull be printed upside down help with it being less crazy supports do you think?
Also, sorry for putting a bunch of printing stuff in the painting channel, Iām not quite sure where else to put it 
if you want to make the supports easier to remove id suggest changing the top z distance so their easier to pry off and use tree supports if your not already doing so. If you think theres too many supports you can change the autosupport angle so it doesnt try to support such shallow angles or you can manually place supports in the places their actually needed. I dont think flipping it upside down would be a good idea since it looks like your printing it all in one piece so that top of that turret will get mulched by the supports but you could try placing its ass end on the plate and printing it vertically. Honestly tho you should probably just cut the print up and print it multiple parts
killing myself with hammers i should have sub-assembled this pig way more
heās gonna look good. i must trust my brush
No, should have been clear the turret is separate, thatās why Iād mentioned flipping the hull but looking back that probably wasnāt super clear due to the picture
I hadnāt done tree supports the last time or really fiddled with the custom settings
good grey
I can and will never paint peoples unless they're wearing fully enclosed helmets.
Did up a white scars scout kill team with custom shoulder pads and a little kitbashing
decided to come back to my first wargame
i feel 50/50 on it
Gaslands?
Because it is.
That cloak was all drybrushing.
Same for the very light blue highlights.
Why is it especially like magic after shading???
Because it's highlighting raised areas and creating a contrasting effect with the shadows that come about from shading.
Whoa
Hm?
It just looks so cool
Gaslands :]
came across a smaller youtube channel with a guy who does some REALLY good sculpting/conversion stuff
#oldhammer #warhammeroldworld #warhammerfantasy
Back with another hobby video, this time my most ambitious old world conversion yet!
Like, comment, and subscribe
music by:
ALEXANDER NAKARADA
"Prepare for War"
"Village Ambiance"
creatorchords.com
mainly right now it seems like he's focused on remaking modern-day Nurgle units in retro/oldhammer style
like, matching the aesthetics of 90s warhammer sculpts really well
what color should I paint this tank?
still gotta add some color here and there buuut
Oh hey, I printed another Bradley this time using tree supports and it ended up much better (still a few print errors on a few parts, but overall much nicer)
Nice!
So thanks for yāallās recommendations
And this time the barrel was just a lil bit funny at the bottom rather than āoops, spaghettiā
Spaghetti barrel is fun, though
Ehh, not unless itās meant to be some kind of conversion into a Weird Desert Storm Bradley
Though, having said that, spooky modern warfare is a vibe š¤
How's it gone? Because it could always been a auto cannon that's fired so long the barrel has melted.
(legit something that can happen)
Though it was more half of the barrel is drooping spaghetti rather than full on creepy tentacle barrel
I donāt know how much youād have to fire and how bad the motor pool workers would kick your ass for that
Friendly reminder
Someone got a suppressor to melt with a single belt of 700 5.56 rounds....
The Krummlauf exists
Thatās a lot of time to be going full cyclic
Should it tho?
Why not?
The vid I saw was a SAW firing for 50 seconds.
Yeah thatās something where your gunnerās assistant beats you over the goddamn head
Well technically it was close to the 500 round mark it breaks.
But yeah in war and when shit hits the fan those rules go out the window.
Yes but also you arenāt hitting shit doing that and are just wasting ammo
You do bursts for a reason
Several reasons, actually
Thereās āin extremisā and then thereās ādude what the fuck stopā
Oh aye. (The vid was them in a range specifically testing that)
Anyhow, Bradley turned out good, also printed up the MG turret to make it into the AMPV variant if I wanted to swap it, and only cost about $4.50 š
Also, my Brads (plus AMPV turret options):
Halfway to a platoon, though Iād need to print out more dudes to be in them
What are these for?
Also, it conveniently looks like Iād be able to fit the entire platoon plus dismounts in the box Iāve made for em
General wargaming, but theyāre probably gonna be used with Down Range
Theyāre also designed by the guy who made Down Range
What's Down Range?
Also, Iāll just mention that all of his modelās STL files are available free
I might be getting too far into wargaming rather than painting, but hereās the link to the website: https://downrangewargame.com
A fast-paced wargame for small units and modern concepts
Long story short, free wargame designed by a USMC captain initially just for training USMC lower level officers and NCOs, but released to the public for free
Iāve played a bit of it, and itās very smooth but has depth
Itās IGYG but with a very heavily emphasized reaction system
Anyways Iāll stop talking about non-painting stuff here
Does y'all's plastic glue like the stickiest glue in the world, or do I just have a fucked up batch?
Which one you using?
Bondtech Super Plastic Glue
Ah can't say I've ever used that. I personally used citadel for a while, before moving into Tiaymo extra thin.
I've taken to wearing nitrile gloves because the glue gets stuck to my hands and won't come off for days, but I just had a mini eat one of them because it got stuck to the glue
And I'm now trying to pick glove out of the plastic with a metal toothpick
Does it say it's a cyanoacrylate?
Yeah
That's superglue.
Goddamnit ok
That doesn't make a lot of sense to me with how its worked, but I'll take your word for it
Well Cyanoacrylate is the scientific name for superglue.
Is it melting the plastic it's applied to?
It might be a weird mix of CA and Acetone?
Maybe. But that's not really a good idea iirc from my chemistry lessons.
See that's the thing, it is
But yeah normal plastic glue wont really stick to anything but plastic at all. On skin itll just dry off
Hmmmm mind posting a pic of the ingredients in it? Because that is very strange.
All it says is "Main component: Cyanoacrylate"
No other ingredients listed
I can't believe a hobby shop sold this to me
This is what I use for 99% of the things I work on. Resin and metals get gorilla glue.
And that's definitely a contaminated batch then. If it was traditional model glue it would have some form of acetone in (normally butyl-acetone)
Well thank you for the recommendation
Oh so regular plastic glue (like Tamiya) just outright won't work on certain types of plastic (like older star wars legion minis), resin and metal.
Ahh
Yeah. The very short version is that the acetone in glue for plastic melts the plastic slightly so they can "weld" together.
Meanwhile superglues undergo a catalytic reaction where the cyanoacrylate becomes a hard acrylate material. (The white/clear substance left behind when it dries)
Because the cyanoacrylate isn't welding stuff together, rather simply adding an extra bit of material it can be used on a much wider range of materials.
Yeah ok this stuff has been doing both
Which is very interesting.
Indeed
Acetone doesn't dissolve it either (I've tried a good few times at this point)
So I don't know what the hell this stuff is
Most likely a corrupted batch, but I don't know enough of material chemistry to say more.
(I only know of the superglue stuff because I used it for my dissertation)
Cyanoacrylate and plastic glue in one? That's a new one.
And it's only labelled as cyanoacrylate
It's way stickier than normal super glue too. I've not had this much trouble with that in past
At least when it's sticking to me
Yeah that's just the oils on your skin. Makes the reaction happen much faster.
I do see someone else in an amazon review of this Bondtech stuff complaining about other cyanoacrylate glues melting plastics? That's new to me as well.
Hmmmm very interesting
Random experiment: what happens when you throw a pinch of baking soda into a drop of the stuff?
Nothing
Oh wait no, it hardened immediately
Which confirms that it is at least partially super glue
But it didn't do anything you'd expect it to do if there was any acetone
Wack.
Super wack
Did you let any radioactive spiders near your glue bottle?
Aye
Yeah. You might have bought super-glue rather than superglue.
Super duper glue
Working on knights
Ooooh, is that rust done with dirty down?
Got this man his fluorescent manicure finally, trying to puzzle out how I want the sword to be
Flames?
BA
Ah, yep
My favourite Churchill variant
AVRE are always so funny
Yup. Fire the dustbin
Next bit of armour for my BA will be a croc.
(gonna try get my 60+ commandos/paras done by the end of the month
I love me the Sturmtiger, for the same reasons
My favourite tank though is the firefly. Because fuck you and your frontal glacis at 1km
Hot take
The Firefly looks more like a Sherman than a Sherman
I like the Archer, because that, and also shoot backwards
Yup. Also as an interesting note, first tank with Sabots. Iirc there was one for the 6pdr QF, but I don't think any tank crews got it. (Very much might be wrong though)
Also the Tulip
And those Sabots were also extremely good. Again iirc, but 263mm of pen at 1km
Because funi
Ahhh the tulip 3 inch rocket launcher
A pretty fun one. Also another random fact. 17pdr smoke shells used a lot of white phos
Most smoke shells did back then
Still do
I have taken stock of my inventory.
I am majority of Vallejo paints and have a small amount of Citadel paints that I have put in army painter bottles.
Magnetized my Bradleyās to go in my storage box, Iām glad I didnāt mess anything up with the drilling
That's cool
Itās a very fun party trick to flip the box
Always flip the box
how i miss my church hill crocodile
painted up in dazzle camo
the coolest tank and the coolest camoflauge
terror of the hedges
Current WIP
Bajurs!
Bajurs
classic Blue Angels color combo pops like crazy
That has the vibe of a G1 transformer so far, which is a good thing in many ways.
A way to make it feel a little more to scale rather than just a tiny plastic robot is to add details that break up the monocoloured surfaces. Things like joints, vents, thrusters, or even tiny warning labels. The painted equivalent of a banana for scale.
Here's the first BT mini I painted when I started out, it has things like the joints done in a different colour to break up that monotony and make it feel a little more real.
That does look pretty
Thanks. It's not perfect, but mechs work differently than organic minis. Not that I'm an expert at those either.
Helen of Sparta, Infinity
And a stupid thing I was strong-armed into.
Daemon Prince of Dentahl, The Appointed
"Don't talk to me or my son or my son ever again."
Got the whole dirty down catalogue on these models
Makes me want to spend way too much on brown goops
I bought a job lot of tau and this poor guy looks so cursed drowning in paint
GREATER GOOD SAVE MEEEEE
I wanted to see how they looked together and I kinda dig it. The pink glow brings it all together
Not sure I ever posted an update but. Think I might be using my LI knights for my new lancer game since I'm the GM and I can.
Gonna try and paint eyes into the lenses cuz this army didnāt give me enough work already
this guy's so fuckin cool
Brads! Brads! Brads!
Also theyāre not that lime green, thatās a lighting oddity
š ±ļøradley
Bradleys are dope
look great at that scale
To be clear, I didnāt design them, Iāve just printed them
Love your design
part of the collection
Trench crusade's paint tutorial is pretty good, now that I've tried it.
That took about an hour 15.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1405364378/trench-crusade/posts/4429464
They dropped it as part of their most recent kickstarter update

