I don't have a good seal
#Miniature painting šØ
ornate tendon
Correct mask size is important
ornate tendon
I do not wear PPE when I spray prime
I will never tell somebody to not wear PPE! Only you give a shit about your health
But Iām okay with the potential consequences that come with the level of exposure I get when priming a handful of toy soldiers every other month or so (ie. pretty negligible)
lilac marsh
But can I use a 95 while spraying?
Anything is better than nothing
weak hornet
True
So, at Home Depot. They do have respirators, but they're too small for me.
Could this work as a stopgap until I could a find a respirator that fits?
And the spray I'm using is Citadel.
Okay, and I just found a respirator that's the right size.
Weird.
full hinge
If youāre spray priming outside you can probably get away with no mask
But thatās dumb so donāt if you can avoid it
warm prawn
WIP
weak hornet
But thatās dumb so donāt if you can avoid it
Yeah, I don't really want any of that stuff getting in my lungs.
compact pier
Slick!
weak hornet
Slick
Also, I was able to barely get this before they pulled this from the shelf.
It's actually the right size.
I got told they were pulling them because they weren't making them anymore.
But everything's still good with them.
cobalt summit
Thats the one I use!
weak hornet
Sweet
I probably screwed up when I was doing a pressure check.
But is it air coming through the mask or exhaust valve that means it isn't sealed properly?
humble stirrup
The mask should suck to your face if you cover the intake and breath in
Is the simplest fit test
weak hornet
Okay, I'll see how that goes.
warm prawn
Here's my Krootox Rider. First start- to- finish mini in 2025
twin willow
Painting begins on my boyo
Been using a new method test to make the metal armor more dark
How do we all feel about this?
I love how I can go from "simple paint job" to "i am putting my soul into this creation"
olive raven
How do we all feel about this?
What will your basing scheme be?
twin willow
What will your basing scheme be?
No idea currently
twin willow
Gimme opinions on the paint job šļø
cobalt summit
I honestly wanna pick your brains now I been struggling to differentiate the copper n brass on my skaven
This isnāt totally overwhelming gold and brass
viral arch
2 (okay more like one and a half) kill teams done in 2 days
viral arch
These an OC regiment?
Surprisingly not! It's the palatine sentinels, the regiment that guards the outer walls of the imperial palace on Terra. They show up in the watchers of the throne series as tertiary characters
warm prawn
Sailor T'auts comin' along. Need to do cleanup (and eyes) and then I can hem and haw over what to do with bases.
lunar axle
These D-Listers are making me see all kinds of colours. Especially Crazy Quilt. Highlighting him's gonna be a trip.
twin willow
"Brother how the fuck am I still alive"
twin willow
This isnāt totally overwhelming gold and brass
Leadbelcher primer
Lather in Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush Iron Warriors all over
Apply rusty effect using Darkoath Flesh
Paint Trim using Runelord Brass
wide dawn
2 (okay more like one and a half) kill teams done in 2 days
Love the look! Metallics on Guard really shift their vibe
thorny crystal
Ups the sci-fi vibes
wide dawn
Yaaaaaay
humble stirrup
Simple but nice paint job
marble glacier
Working on some blending
marble glacier
lunar axle
I can't help but think my painting setup isn't optimal for productivity.
marble glacier
It's optimized for your su-purr-visor though
marble glacier
Alright, calling her done!
lime haven
Wow, that is an incredibly striking job. Great work with the color gradiants from dark to light.
marble glacier
Thank you!
cobalt summit
Testing skintones. First is Fyreslayer Flesh, second is Guilliman Flesh, third is Rakarth Flesh and agrax earthshade wash. All on Wraithbone prime, I underestimated a warm undertone
I really gotta thin my GW washes I keep forgetting theyāre so goddamn glossy and pooling now :/
First two could also probably use a second coat, still getting used to contrasts but I like em for smoother skintone gradients.
lime haven
For those of you who have stripped primer, I've found that no brush i have can remove the it after a 91% iso bath. What brushes do you use? Or other method
I have some kebab sticks I've been using to scrape off the primer and I'm 90% done with the mini but I don't know how to get the nooks and crannys
weak hornet
Besides that
Soak
Soak in soapy water
Hell, prime the model by lathering it in soap and then running warm water on it.
That's what I do. I lather them all up, run water, and let them soak for hours.
humble stirrup
Simple green is good, just leave it there for a day or two and then yeah, cheap toothbrush and water
austere swift
How long did you soak it for?
weak hornet
Me? I'm crazy so I let my mini's soak in soapy water overnight.
And then did it repeatedly because I'm just that extra.
You know the person who buys like five items of the same paint pot or bottle, brush, or materials?
Yeah, I'm that crazy bish.
languid jay
LA's Totally Awesome is my go-to for paint stripping. Cheap and effective. When it proves stubborn I use Dawn Power Dissolver, which is much harder to find now and I can only really find it on Amazon.
Super Clean is also really effective, if more expensive.
idle girder
weak hornet
Ohhhhhhh
crude pumice
Love the claw, that orange power effect is excellent
humble stirrup
Iām guessing thatās a somewhat modified Abbadon?
idle girder
Iām guessing thatās a somewhat modified Abbadon?
Yup, I like the model not the man so a little snip cut and glue
Helmeted abbadon hits different anyway
humble stirrup
Yeah it really does
Iām not usually big on Terminator Tusks, but it really works there
Also, whoās the poor marine thatās his footrest?
idle girder
Raptor or salamander depending on how vindictive im feeling
Was gonna do another lamenter but decided against painting more yellow that was gonna just get snow covered
idle girder
Their just so easy to bully
weak hornet
Hey, so, quick question.
When I'm done using my respirator.
Do I keep the cartridges attached to it when it's not in use?
Or do I remove them and store them somewhere else before I use the respirator again?
compact pier
Keep them attached
compact pier
I dont think they would? But attaching and detaching them repeatedly would probably wear out the connection pretty quick
weak hornet
True
compact pier
Mostly just you dont need to detach them is the main thing
weak hornet
Allrighty
ornate tendon
Depending on the kind of cartridge, they may have a design lifespan of either use-hours or of total time elapsed from opening their factory packaging
weak hornet
My 3M manual said to replace the cartridges after 40 hours of use or 30 days.
ornate tendon
Perfect. 3M really does it right.
humble stirrup
Thereās often gonna be still a lil bit on stuff unless youāre using super intense solvent
weak hornet
No, I mean there's still grey even though I sprayed with the spray on primer.
slender crest
really easy for some areas of minis to miss spray because they're shadowed by other parts of the mini or you just didn't hit them at enough angles
weak hornet
Yeah.
slender crest
better too little than too much tho, easier fix
weak hornet
Yeah, maybe I could just do some lighter sprays if I'm serous about covering up some of those patches.
wide tartan
Hello friends!
Has anyone got any advice for sorta mountain-y snow effects on bases?
languid jay
My go-to is Woodland Scenics snow, mixed in with PVA and a tiny bit of water; stir until somewhat smooth, then apply onto the base and let dry.
idle girder
baking soda, PVA, water and a touch of white paint, adjust ratios to desired consistency and apply then pouch a broad soft brush into it for better effect
languid jay
Note that you need to add some paint to the baking soda mix or it will eventually turn yellow with age.
Now, you can do any of the above and instead of PVA you use a thick gloss gel--this gets a much shinier, more "fresh" look, which some people swear by but which I've personally not really gotten good results on. I fully admit I might be mucking it up somehow.
https://figurepainters.com/tips-tutorials/2016/10/9/making-snow-and-icicles-for-miniatures.html There's tips on doing icicles too, and covers what Atlas and I have talked about.
wide tartan
Thank you!
languid jay
Were the yellow and blue just GS being weird or not properly mixed?
cobalt summit
Were the yellow and blue just GS being weird or not properly mixed?
Probably not properly mixed š
This roll is uhhh as old as my move to bozeman cuz I was scared to use it, so like. 18 months. Does GS go stale?
Was not easy to work with so Iāll probably buy another roll
languid jay
It can get old but it takes a long time and a lot of exposure to air.
I recommend avoiding the "strip" kind btw, that's usually the one that actually goes bad because both colors are touching.
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ/ I stick with this. Doesn't seem to go bad, you get a lot, and it can last me years before needing to get another one.
cobalt summit
Yāknow that makes sense. That was in fact the kind I used (air-exposed strip)
Looks okay primed at least but itāll be nice to have better materials next time
At least the base will be good š the best torch holders being ork skulls grippin em like cigars warms my heart still 2 days later
lunar axle
Some friends have finally convinced me to touch something 40k related again in the form of necromunda, so now I'm building a Rogue Doc to hopefully get as a hanger-on for my bounty hunters.
ornate tendon
Greenstuff opinions: takes literal years to go bad even with exposure to air, if youāre using the strip then cut out the part where the blue and yellow are touching and throw that away, ideal mix is like 1:1.125 yellow to blue
Perfect mix for workability and cure time tends a little blue, like a Christmas tree green vice the grass green you get with a 1:1 mix
cobalt summit
Okay thats good to know, Iāll mess around next time
languid jay
Looks okay primed at least but itāll be nice to have better materials next time
Oh once you get some paint on it no one is going to know or care.
I'd check for any "tacky" parts where it didn't seem to mix well but if it isn't sticky then it did its job.
cobalt summit
Texture wise it feels A-OK everywhere at least.
Thereās a few spots where its patterned from my thumb or inconsistent sculpting, but none of it looks like texture I canāt hide with some careful rendering
languid jay
Yeah, more I'd just be worried that unmixed/uncured woult still be sticky but I think there's enough mixed GS in there to make it not matter or have cured anyway.
weak hornet
So, I got sick from spray painting.
More specifically, turns out that using a respirator while having allergies will result in a temporary viral infection.
I just want to heavy metal women primed
Especially that Battlemaster
humble stirrup
I donāt think thatās how that works, but also oof
cobalt summit
Bloodpelt Hunter done for my path to glory army. 12 gluttons, 4 ironguts, and a butcher to go.
Basing is pending š
warm prawn
Yaegir Kill Team In Progress.
granite fox
i need to consult with some painters
this is a model i kitbashed for a painting competition
this is how it looks like now (i have more to go with glazes and some blending for his armor, seperating his arm and skin cloak's color with glazes...etc)
im planning to do True Metallic Metal with green / nurglish OSL coming from the ground with the zombie marine hands rising up
is this a good way of the light source shining through the ground?
lunar axle
Yeah, I reckon that could work. I'd personally treat the entire bottom of the crack as a light source.
granite fox
yeah thats the idea
the green lines is just an example of what im thinking of doing after doing True Metallic Metal
lunar axle
As in, originating from that central point?
lunar axle
I don't think it'd hit things at that diagonal of an angle necessarily. Your light is coming up from a crack in the ground.
lunar axle
So essentially, the light gets kind of... polarised almost. The rays cannot pass through the floor, only the crack, so the light flows fairly straight upwards. The narrower the crack, the narrower the beam.
granite fox
neat neat!
lunar axle
Also, mind you, this effect gets stronger with depth. The higher those walls of the crack, the narrower the cone of light will be.
So if you want to give the impression of the zombies coming from deep down in the earth, tightening the spread will make it appear deeper.
warm prawn
More space dwarf.
lunar axle
"I'll just do a quick basecoat."
So much for that.
midnight mesa
So people have recommendations for where to look if someone is interested in painting miniatures but doesn't care about game lines?
humble stirrup
Historical minis tbh
All sorts of eras, all sorts of scales, but there is a bit less craziness than fantasy or sci fi minis for obvious reasons
wide dawn
D&D minis have a wide range of options
lunar axle
Those tats look great too
Cheers. Acrylic ink is great for freehanding.
warm prawn
"I'll just do a quick basecoat."
So much for that.
Oh, hey, I said that last night and threw the entire space dwarf together and then almost a whole-ass Kroot Flesh Shaper before I realized it was an hour past my bed time.
lunar axle
Yeah, that's a mood and a half.
cobalt summit
it's been -30F for two days straight and I gotta recharge the car battery so we are in the painting mines together
warm prawn
Coming from T'au, I'm not used to painting human skin tones. Any suggestions for non-Caucasian skin?
lunar axle
I've had some luck with relatively simple dark skin tones using something like Rhinox Hide, in GW terms, highlighted with something like Scrag Brown, perhaps a mix of the two.
I'm not sure what I used for a tanned skin tone, it might've been a base of vallejo's Dark Flesh highlighted with Zandri Dust.
Some flesh shades can also add a surprising amount of definition.
cobalt summit
https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-human-skin/
This article is a godsend
cobalt summit
Iā¦ may need adhd meds if Iām doing micron pen peāa to kill time
floral pagoda
Amazing work
compact pier
thats so dope
compact pier
Angy parachute man
Ready to push button or blow up objective or whatever needs doing. Maybe stab a government official
warm prawn
Thinking about my space dwarves' bases and I wanna do a taiga. I'm not seeing any real guides online (my search-fu might be weak, though) how do we think hitting, like, Stirland Mud with Ahtonian Camoshade would work?
cobalt summit
Thinking about my space dwarves' bases and I wanna do a taiga. I'm not seeing an...
Taiga ends up a lot of like spongy moss undergrowth vs actual grassāIād fully paint patches of it green, like castellan and a green highlight and athonian wash
Typhus corrosion over the mud before the green can also end up a really nice texture
warm prawn
Hrm, the two greens I have are Caliban and warpstone... Well. We might be visiting the hobby shop this weekend, anyway
Oh, wait. No. There's more over here in the other box. I have Castellan.
cobalt summit
Have used caliban and warpstone as well
lime haven
Simple green won't melt BT plastic minis if I leave them in too long, right?
cobalt summit
Shouldnāt, Iāve done like 5 days in em and its been totally fine
Presumably if its weeks and weeks thereāll be damage
languid jay
Nah, you could leave it in for months and there wouldn't be any damage.
The only thing that will melt plastic is acetone, obviously. There can be funky interactions with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol on PVC plastic--that's the kind used for a lot of board game minis and early white Reaper Bones, but it seems to just kinda leech some of the chemicals out and makes it more rigid.
But even then a week-long bath in iso won't damage them.
lime haven
I left my Zeus in 91% iso for over a week, and he seems fine. The hard 3d printed plastic of another mini my friend made for me became flimsy and snapped though.
It will be converted into terrain.
languid jay
Oh yeah deffo don't put resin in iso.
ornate tendon
I have never seen nor heard of simple green damaging any kind of resin or plastic, no matter how long the immersion.
One of the reasons itās my go-to recommendation for stripping any toy soldiers
lime haven
it actually wasn't resin, but I'm not sure what the exact material is. My friend works at a professional 3d printing place and they have some funky printers.
cinder shore
warm prawn
Gunna work on putting some red/orange weapon glow on these knives.
It's really thin paints and move to white as you get closer to the emitter, right?
lunar axle
Yes, that would give the right impression. It gets the hottest at the emitter, and then cools towards the edges.
cobalt summit
Weathering test on my ironguts. Basecoat on the right in third pic
wide dawn
niiiice
lilac marsh
The Grey craftworld ready for a game tomorrow
misty horizon
Aspect warriors detachment?
lilac marsh
Aspect warriors detachment?
Yup
crude pumice
The first Carcharodon is painted!
compact pier
Nice freehand!
crude pumice
took forever to get it right (curse my shaky hands) but as a first test mini it turned out excellently
compact pier
Yeah definitely! Youāll only get better at it too
crude pumice
yep
I think the leather turned out slightly too reddish for my tastes so I might try a different recipe for it
glass gulch
Current T28 army: a stump gun and some bastards
warm prawn
WIP Kill Team Shelf
lunar axle
Some player characters for tomorrow's oneshot.
lime haven
Hopefully the final post in the Zeus stripping saga. Would you guys reprime him at this point?
cobalt summit
I had to ask myself why ogre banners were so much easier than skaven, if you guys ever need a scale of my colossal mind
floral pagoda
Ratling kill team WIP coming along nicely
warm prawn
Another KT WIP
cobalt summit
Hey does anybody have much luck fixing the sheen on GW washes?
My ogres are too lubed upā¦
crude pumice
I always shake mine well
That, not letting it pool, and matte varnish
languid jay
Matte varnish can kill the shine.
compact pier
Mm
lunar axle
They shouldn't have one. Usually it's caused by either using a gloss wash instead of a matte one, not shaking well enough, or using a brush that is contaminated by metallica, the flakes of which then end up in the wash.
cobalt spire
Was gonna ask if GW still made the gloss ones
compact pier
the new 'contrast' based washes do have a satiny finish
they dont do seperate matte and gloss washes anymore
lunar axle
Shows how much I've been keeping up with GW, heh. I've been getting more and more into Vallejo, and I got a small Army Painter set a few days ago that I've yet to try.
compact pier
Najjarun engineer from infinity
Really fun model
Tried to have better blending and think its pretty successful
twin willow
I have a thing
languid jay
I've been wanting one of those but at like $20+ a bottle it seemed excessive cost-wise.
twin willow
I've been wanting one of those but at like $20+ a bottle it seemed excessive cos...
I did not spend 20 bucks on this
I spent the equivalent of 11USD šļø
languid jay
where
languid jay
I can mostly get the same results through pigment + alcohol but not that same like...color-changing element Dirty Down has.
twin willow
:p
languid jay
Yeah if you're over on that side of the pond then it's much cheaper compared to the US, which iirc has to get imported.
twin willow
:3
languid jay
If I knew what chemical compound and shit that it uses I'd just make it at home, but I don't think anyone's really taken the time to crack that code.
languid jay
Basically pencil shavings + ink, which...might be more stable compared to pigment + alcohol, which tends to change color/remove a bunch when hit with varnish.
Different from Dirty Down but a useful alternative.
crude pumice
First carcharodon astra squad done! Exile markings and all
lunar axle
They get toes? That feels odd.
crude pumice
ā¦I canāt unsee that now š
ornate tendon
Itās a Mk 6 thing; I remember metal models in late 3e had it
Sort of a Romanesque sandals motif, I think
languid jay
Itās a Mk 6 thing; I remember metal models in late 3e had it
It goes back to the 90s in fact!
wide tartan
Looks lovely!
...don't want to have her pointing a gun at me though
floral pagoda
Trying out textured cloth highlights for the first time and I think it's a promising start!
compact pier
Definitely!
warm prawn
Yaegirs painted. They ain't the prettiest, but they'll do.
floral pagoda
I've refined my first attempt at textured cloth highlighting and think it's looking satisfactory now.
floral pagoda
Basically yeah, the efficacy depends on the texture of the surface and what you're trying to achieve
weak hornet
What would be the opposite of that?
Say I want to basically paint up mechs that are factory new and still "pretty".
humble stirrup
Uh, probably flat colors, maybe with a gloss coat?
Basically skip anything that would make any level of weathering
humble stirrup
Probably?
Unfortunately Iām more of a āfollow other peopleās schemesā than someone who figures all this stuff out themself
So Iām hoping to give the best advice I can
compact pier
Irrespective of finish you mainly want smooth paint application and probably neat edge highlighting
humble stirrup
Yeah
compact pier
Gradients with glazes or airbrushing look good too
Clean is honestly like, kinda the default though
There isnt really an opposite to weathering in terms of a process
humble stirrup
Yeah, once you can apply a smooth coat and edge highlight well (big caveat there lol) everything will kinda just look ānewā
weak hornet
All righty
humble stirrup
Then you gotta know how to properly make it all ugly and grungy
weak hornet
True
cobalt summit
Kinda a subtle bit but Iād use blue or blue/black mix to shade or panel line too
The way most black washes and GW especially mixes em, theyāre there for grime
lunar axle
Finally getting around to some more BMG.
humble stirrup
Is that condiment king?
lunar axle
Don't forget Mr. Camera, Polka-Dot Man, and of course Archie the Sad Suicidal Clown.
I already had Kite-Man, Eraser, Mad Hatter and Man-Bat finished in the display, so the weird villain collection is growing steadily.
marble glacier
Been poking away at the Votann mini of the month. Tried to go for a lil radar sweep on one cuff and a grid target-y thing on the other cuff.
slender crest
This ancient tub of games workshop sand finally came in handy, the vallejo texture paint is pretty fine so I just mixed in some other grit to vary it up to blend out the big base
Really happy with how the diorama fx goes on though, it's nice
Once paint goes down I'll get to dig out the equally ancient tubs of static grass, that should be fun
slender crest
ok having gone back to do my striking scorpions and a second pass at the avatar's base I really like this stuff, I'm not going back to the pva glue + sand method ever again
will get a better photo in actual daylight tomorrow
cobalt summit
baby's first resin, gonna scratch the shit outta it tomorrow with some sandpaper and add snow back over the top
humble stirrup
Looks nice
glass gulch
Got some terrain sludge
compact pier
I always go black tbh
Just cause any crevices you cant get to generally youād rather be black
glass gulch
Just cause any crevices you cant get to generally youād rather be black
Thing is Iām using speed paints
So itās gonna get in the crevices anyways
compact pier
You can still miss spots tho
But yeah with speedpaint type things you want a light coat
Or a preshade
You can drybrush that though is an option
Or just zenithal spray
cobalt summit
Thing is Iām using speed paints
Black and a zenithal grey for lighting
glass gulch
So it turns out I donāt have black primer
cobalt summit
Any hardware store should have it, my favorite is Krylon Painters Touch
You gotta swipe it fast, good coverage means itāll cake if youāre holding it still but the coverage and durability is genuinely best Iāve found
weak hornet
Yeah, you can use hardware primer.
But it's just recommended to use primer that is formulated for miniatures.
Mostly because you don't want to accidentally get a primer that eats away at the plastic.
humble stirrup
Or is very thick and covers details
weak hornet
Also that
weak hornet
Doing touch ups for the old girls and sprays for the new girls.
Also, new scheme for the Kaedweni Lancers.
Olive drab for the body, blue arms (alternating between both arms or a single arm), and yellow for the cockpit.
For the founding Lancers, red for their heads and a red arm or painted arm plate.
And I reduced their TOE.
Four lances -- (Scout lance, two skirmish lances, and a heavy/assault lance). And one mechanized platoon.
silver current
lunar axle
Ah, Stalker. Funky little 85 ton man.
lunar axle
Have you considered giving your 'mechs a wash? It'll give them a bunch more definition near-instantaneously.
weak hornet
Yeah, I'm gonna put some earthsahde when I'm done with all of 'em.
lunar axle
That'll bring 'em alive a bit more, good stuff.
compact pier
Should work fine
weak hornet
Neat
Once I'm done, I'm also gonna weather with Vallejo gun metal.
Wait, should I weather or apply the shade first?
lunar axle
I'd usually use black over blue, but brown can work.
crude pumice
Black wash over blue, yeah
Brown still works tho
weak hornet
All right.
And since I still need to paint the black portion of my mech with gunmetal grey.
Should I shade and wash the mech first or paint first?
lunar axle
Paint the metal first, then shade that with either black or brown too.
Black will appear more clean, sort of oily at best. Brown can make it seem a little dirtier.
Generally you want to cover the entirety of your base colours, then add the wash.
It tends to bring colours together and create a more unified look.
weak hornet
All righty
lime haven
I like going really crazy with the wash on any metal bits to really make it look greased and industrial.
compact pier
yeah theres a difference between areas that are wholly metal (so paint them before the wash, so they're dirtied up the same amount) and using metal to weather the edges, where having it over the wash will increase the contrast
lime haven
If you want to go really crazy the path for large panels is basecoat->wash->rebasecoat the center of the panel->edge highlight
Example of that:
weak hornet
Ohhhh
lime haven
Not a great photo of the effect but it does look nice.
compact pier
worth doing
weak hornet
All right I'll wet my brush and then apply the shades and wash.
Gonna put it everywhere.
I want my mechs to look like the hags they are.
(Just, uh, don't tell that to the mech warriors. They'll kill me.)
weak hornet
our first hag of the day
Would weathering with metal be too much with the shade/wash?
lime haven
Nope
If you're worried about it being too bright relative to the rest of the mini you can touch up the largest panels via repainting the centers with the base coat color
I think weathering will look good
compact pier
Nice!!!
lime haven
That weathering job looks great.
compact pier
Ghulam NCO :)
cobalt summit
We are once again in the edge highlighting mines, see yāall in a week
slender crest
damn whoever recommended proacyrl titanium white was right this shit rules
solid white over black basecoat in basically one go
languid jay
ProAcryl's Bone and Bright Warm Grey are also really solid colors.
viral arch
Test mini for my EC
full hinge
I like those bright metals
viral arch
Felt like trying out platinum for the first time
tawny glen
God weeps because I was given blender
lunar axle
Finally, an Imperial Knight I can sort of get behind.
lime haven
yes
YES
tawny glen
Hmmmm, i might have to add that to the list. I was planning on doing a highlander next but hatamoto model looks sick
lunar axle
I've seen some scattered evidence here and there of people playing BT in 28mm. I think this would fit in perfectly.
lunar axle
Got Zatanna largely done as I need a croupier npc for D&D tonight.
First time trying something slightly translucent for clothing, and it's quite tricky.
languid jay
Translucent clothing is the one thing I haven't tried and I kinda dread it.
Like I know conceptually what to do but each time it's very... š¬ "oh no I'm gonna fuck this up"
humble stirrup
Looking good!
lunar axle
Slowly building out my collection of speedsters and finishing up other DC stuff.
humble stirrup
I know itās very hard to portray incredible speed in a miniature, but I canāt help but see those flashes as figure skating
lunar axle
Same here, which is why I added the lightning. Without it, things just look entirely like yoga or figure skating.
compact pier
Wonder how well like motion blur style painting of bases would work
lunar axle
That could be quite interesting to try.
I even considered using the second Flash I accidentally printed as a sort of afterimage.
slender crest
Gotta give mr rhodes credit, that do be two thin coats
Working time is not incredible but that's my only complaint
Something that bright, that quickly, over black is wild
slender crest
Still deciding how exactly to finish the weapons and assorted accessories but I really like how this came together
loosely running on this as inspo
languid jay
If you trust your freehanding skills, painted-on vines would look neat.
Well, for the chainsword anyway.
slender crest
you're not wrong
misty horizon
as a gsc player I'm sometimes envious of stuff that can be painted so nicely so easily
slender crest
gsc famously fiddly or something?
languid jay
Festooned with detail.
misty horizon
yeah, lots of bits and bobs, multiple textures like armor, skin and fabric, and are a hoard army that wants an absolute ton of units
full hinge
Yeah GSC is probably the combined most hours of labor to paint of any armor
lime haven
GSC is for the players who are 'ard as nails.
- hard to play
- hardest to paint
- shitton of dudes
- expensive as fuck
weak hornet
What is GSC again?
sand carbon
Genestealer Cultists
Having seen a bunch of them, I think they're pretty comparable to Imperial Guard except:
A) more skin
B) no big point expensive things like tanks
C) not as many value boxes to bring the collecting cost down
full hinge
You can get some tanks but yeah
Also they tend to have more detail and dissimilar stuff on them than IG
sand carbon
The rockgrinder is big but it's not that point expensive compared to the level of detail on it
full hinge
I just mean with Brood Bros
sand carbon
Oh yeah
lunar axle
I feel the cultists are pretty fun to paint. But doing just one is different from a whole army.
slender crest
discovered signs of life in my 15 year old citadel washes and might be zeroing in on an easier formula for these striking scorpions, did up test patches on an old space marine of badab black, thraka green, and a 50/50 mix of the two all over the same bright green base I'm using
thankful the washes released after they redesigned their pots, every old style pot I had is firmly in the trash
slender crest
I didn't expect much out of GW paints after this long, that any of them are still alive is a bonus
ok yeah I think the 50/50 on the helmet wins
black - 50/50 - green left to right, went back over with a coat of the base on all three
misty horizon
Oh I thought you meant something that growing in it
slender crest
nah just that they're still actually liquid
lime haven
Having fun with camera settings.
granite fox
painted a friend up as a drag queen escher matriarch (the iron cross is there BECAUSE HE LIKES BLACK TEMPLARS) and the aquila on her head cause imperium
working on a mini me now (probably with a world eaters tattoo)
lime haven
I stand amongst falling petals.
crude pumice
sick af
compact pier
War correspondent :)
silver current
compact pier
That basing scheme is so fun!
silver current
Thanks!
weak hornet
New rack who dis?
lunar axle
That's a nice rack you got there.
thorny crystal
I hope you don't mind me staring
viral arch
First unit done
humble stirrup
Horrifically garish, well done
cobalt summit
WIP, mostly a test of what Iād like my poison wind globes to look like
Fur/hide/mechanics all p messy still
cobalt summit
They look nice! Marble-y kinda
Marble-y is the goal honestly lol the very first models I ever got and painted were the lumpy old globadiers and seeing the marble paintjobs in the books was the coolest shit
And also I got. Necrons. For plain green glowy orb osl lmfaooo
compact pier
Niceeee yeah that is a fun part of necrons too
cobalt summit
Need to differentiate my factions full of glowy green shit
granite fox
WIP + Gore CW
@lilac condor
granite fox
thank
lilac condor
kind of making us want to sell our collection to get back into it to get nightlords heheheh
granite fox
im working on my gfs night lords army for HH and 40k
and this one is a MoP for 40k as a contest entry
lilac condor
MoP?
crude pumice
Master of Possession
echo birch
WIP + Gore CW
what's the base model for this, this thing's awesoem!
cobalt summit
XPS foam is sick as hell actually
granite fox
what's the base model for this, this thing's awesoem!
chaos sorceror (2019 version
bits i used was chaos knight weapon, blood warrior arm, nemesis claw head, apothecary backpack piece option
the base itself is cork filled with arms and hands of space marines
i covered it with a texture paste
weak hornet
pretty
lime haven
A trick i learned from watching duncan rhodes is to approach armor from a 4 step process. Block out the base layer and give it a heavy wash to start the depth. Then return color by painting the center of flat spots with the original base layer and clean the edges with a drybrush of the same. Do one more, lighter drybrush of a brighter color to bring out the pop.
weak hornet
Interesting
echo birch
Hell yeah, great choice there. I'm using one of the AoS chaos sorcerers for a Master of Executions
warm prawn
Guide model for Kasrkin squad colour blocked. Tried using some transfers and failed miserably. Any tips?
Also: considering changing the lasgun's foregrip to white so the main body has some colour variation. Thoughts?
cobalt summit
Guide model for Kasrkin squad colour blocked. Tried using some transfers and fai...
I think black on the lasgun is fine, maybe just try some weathering on it so its clearly different textures?
Wait oh I misread, youāre talkin foregripā¦ Iād do the dark blue you got on the armor just for coherence
ornate tendon
Guide model for Kasrkin squad colour blocked. Tried using some transfers and fai...
Tips for transfers?
Micro Sol & Micro Set
lunar axle
I'd personally wait with transfers until most everything on the mini is done.
You can give 'em a final pass to blend them in with some weathering, but other than that I'd save 'em for last.
cobalt summit
You got the sol and set thats basically it for prep besides practice
Lil bit of varnish at the end can help
cobalt summit
Basing update: weāre fuckin balling
Gonna do a corkboard/bark rock to brace that front foot against the flat edge, resin pour for water n some corkboard ice floes
languid jay
If you like getting an unreasonable amount of bark that'll last you a lifetime, Home Depot has huge bags of the stuff for like $4.
cobalt summit
Good to know, but we also just have like 15 acres of montana wilderness in the backyard, I can just go grab bark from the yard n sterilize it usually
Upside of livin in the middle of nowhere
languid jay
Oh, yeah then you're good for life lmao
languid jay
warm prawn
Wait oh I misread, youāre talkin foregripā¦ Iād do the dark blue you got on the a...
It's purple, but I'll give that a shot
lunar axle
Sometimes you gotta sit down and paint something spontaneously in a single sitting.
twin fern
Question, I go for long stretches of not painting models that I leave out to paint. Is the best way to dust them off to use a dry brush and just brush em off?
viral arch
humble stirrup
Absolutely atrocious, good job
crude pumice
Love how bright it is
lunar axle
Question, I go for long stretches of not painting models that I leave out to pa...
Some very soft makeup brush might work.
Drybrushes tend to be a little stiff, though that might be just my personal ones.
cobalt kiln
Question, I go for long stretches of not painting models that I leave out to pa...
Can of compressed air could also work, now that I think about it
full hinge
If you have an airbrush you can use the compressor hose to blast the dust off
lilac marsh
Just got some secondhand minis and the paint started to rub off just from me brushing the dust off them
Good thing I was planning to strip anyways
lilac marsh
Because of the tariffs, will the price of paint go up?
GW paint for sure, others not sure
Depends on where they mix their paints and get pigments from, etc.
languid jay
Vallejo is made primarily in Spain, which got hit with a 20% tariff.
weak hornet
There goes my olive drab habit
lilac marsh
Monument hobbies might be okay
humble stirrup
Historicals get smacked yet again
humble stirrup
Probably
I know thereās some places doing small scales like 6mm or 10mm have started 3D printing/selling STLs, but thereās also the supply chain for resin/filament to worry about
I have actually been increasingly interested in getting into smaller scale historicals, but this stuff has me just in a big thing of not even knowing what will be available once I have a paycheck again
I think getting into 3D printing might be a good idea, but even thatās likely to be still expensive
crude pumice
I think getting into 3D printing might be a good idea, but even thatās likely to...
3d printers and resin/filament are mostly manufactured in china aiui
humble stirrup
Yeah, Iām unfortunately aware
cobalt summit
boutta pull the trigger on a tesseract vault so I don't have to think about buying new models for like a year and a half while I paint the fucker
pile of shame final boss
humble stirrup
I love the Dr. Manhattan looking ctan in that one
weak hornet
Ya know, if I wanted to make applying washes easier.
Should I get one of those little bottles that comes with the brush? Ya know, the one where it gets covered, like crazy glue or gorilla glue, and you just brush it on the model?
humble stirrup
I donāt think thatād make it that much easier tbh
lilac marsh
What's the difficult part of applying washes that that would help?
weak hornet
Probably having an easier place to put it on the palette.
languid jay
Oh, just transfer it to a dropper bottle if it isn't already in one.
weak hornet
Oh yeah
I have a couple pre-empties of army painter droppers.
And I also know there are those circle palette's or are they wells?
languid jay
I forget the name of those but yeah.
lime haven
You can get little paint pallets with wells for 3 bucks at target.
weak hornet
All righty
weak hornet
Hey, so, this is a thing now.
Ya know those stamps for nails?
Yeah, these people decided to make that for mini painting.
languid jay
Yeah.
weak hornet
Wait did this get posted here way back?
languid jay
Now unfortunately the cheapest option is $50 which...y'know, those stamp plates typically go for $10 or less.
languid jay
Wait did this get posted here way back?
Over in the 40k thread, yeah
slender crest
miniatures painters never beating the makeup tutorial allegations, absolutely hilarious
humble stirrup
Look, if it works it works
slender crest
not complaining, it's about time people stopped fighting it
first the makeup sponges, now finally lifting the nail art tech for intricate patterns
weak hornet
Why didn't we do this in the first place????
There are so many things that are normal in other things that are barely coming over here?
humble stirrup
I think itās that a lot of people just might not be aware of them
languid jay
Why didn't we do this in the first place????
It's very much one of those things that when I saw it, I went "this is so obvious" and like...I don't think I've seen anyone do it before?
I'm not sure I've seen scale/train modelers use it before and that is shocking because those guys are like 10 years ahead of miniature painters.
humble stirrup
Train guys are to be feared and worshiped
lilac marsh
It's very much one of those things that when I saw it, I went "this is *so obvio...
Probably because it's an intermediate between slide transfers and just being good at freehand painting
For most people you either use the transfers or just practice freehand
languid jay
I can do both fairly easily and I still want one of these things because it's so much easier.
If I'm painting a squad of like 10 marines? Yeah screw it, this saves a lot of time and effort.
lilac marsh
Oh it's definitely easier but that was just probably a reason why nobody has done it yet
Also I'm sure people have used it before, but not enough to like make a new product out of it
languid jay
Heck even just the hazard stripe design is A++ "thank god I don't have to bust out the micron pens" genius.
I'm sure someone has done it before but I've not seen it on any youtube channel or anything.
It's got me looking on Aliexpress for plates and hm, hm, I found one with lightning bolts...
Night Lords players be like "I'll take your entire stock."
weak hornet
"No, I'm buying these because I am tired of free handing shit."
A week later
"Okay, so, I'm wondering if you have hot pink, bubblegum, and cherry blossom."
slender crest
shouldn't be too tough to find one for the checkerboard patterns, ork stocks booming
weak hornet
Ork Stock Market: Teef! Teef! Teef! DA GREEN TEEF IZ HERE, LADS! WAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH!!!
Tau stock market: What the hell is going on over there! Why did they just blow up to 100,000 points!?
Imperial Stock Market: Bonds! Bonds! Bonds, Bonds, Bonds! Invest in Bad Moonz Teef Bonds!!!
languid jay
shouldn't be too tough to find one for the checkerboard patterns, ork stocks boo...
e z p z
slender crest
oh the distorted ones are begging to be applied to some harlequins
languid jay
I've seen ones that have card and jester designs which would be fitting too, I think.
slender crest
like on some clown bikes? perfection
languid jay
warm prawn
I've been searching for nail stamping plates for a while. To do my nails with. But now I'm looking for modeling purposes.
humble stirrup
So how does those work?
languid jay
https://youtu.be/1HNQbVBfcro
Like this.
humble stirrup
Neat
warm prawn
Apply Paint On Desired Design (Just use stamping nail polish)
Scrape off Excess
Roll Silicone stamper over design
Roll over target part of mini/ your nails
Clean plate with acetone (NOT Nail Polish Remover)
If you have a friend or partner or loved one that does their nails, especially if they have neat designs on them, it is the exact same process.
(This reminds me that I should freshen up my nails)
viral arch
Another unit finished
crude pumice
loving the bisexual basing
last axle
Not quite done but here's some wip, slightly kitbashed ash waste nomads we've been working on
compact pier
Neatttt
misty horizon
ash waste nomads are very cool
gleaming shore
i love these scrungly little freaks
granite fox
http://puu.sh/KrAyd/72c64b4a81.jpg
as a french cat once said "Pathetique" bechanced for i have mastered the lightning
spoilered cause its a paint competition piece
also do not share
keen gulch
i just got interested in warhammer and painting is super difficult ;_; but i started my first army of flayed flesheater courts, theyre very messy but i dont mind, the red is a mix of mephiston and fleshtearer with random white so it looks a bit more glistening and texured irl
languid jay
Painting gets a lot easier the more you do it, and always remember two things:
- Painted models are better than unpainted models, so even the "worst" or "sloppiest" is still painted models
- Do not compare yourself to other painters, only your past self; you otherwise will get discouraged
gleaming shore
here's my third thing:
you paint a model fast not by painting it fast, but by painting it confidently
slow is precise, and precise means less mistakes, and less mistakes means less rework time, and less rework time is fast
keen gulch
yeah thanks, its really cool to be able to personalise it too vs prepainted models or something, i may finish them up at the local game shoppe because its fun to do with other people too
keen gulch
slow is precise, and precise means less mistakes, and less mistakes means less r...
yes i have tried to add a spot of white to paint still drying trying to go too fast on one of the knights lol
gleaming shore
knowing when to stop is one of the most important skills, staying aware of when you're approaching diminishing returns on detailing
languid jay
Yeah.
Also? If someone suggests an easier way to do a thing that gets the same result, do it. Always cheat when painting.
gleaming shore
ten guys that look great from a meter away but get a little messy on closer inspection is far preferable to one guy who you've belaboured every follicle of chest hair on and looks basically the same from a meter away
and the latter will tire you out much more than the former
languid jay
God, yeah. The "3 foot" rule is especially paramount when painting whole armies.
keen gulch
Also? If someone suggests an easier way to do a thing that gets the same result,...
those washes you brush over quickly look cool, i think i have one or two somewhere
languid jay
Washes are great, I use them all the time.
Oil washes are even better, though they're slightly more of an investment and take a bit more time. Way more forgiving compared to acrylic washes since you can just remove the oil with mineral spirits.
cobalt summit
i just got interested in warhammer and painting is super difficult ;_; but i sta...
The one other tip I will give is that using white prime is gonna exacerbate the part of the process where the model looks like dogwater until the exact moment itās doneābut also I think its the right move for FEC like youāre doing! That red is gonna be real vibrant
Gotta just learn to be confident thru the process
gleaming shore
it's a nice scheme you've got going here
bold and unorthodox colour schemes have very strong impact when you whip out an entire army of them at your LGS
and the dominance of reds and whites here does that very well i think
keen gulch
The one other tip I will give is that using white prime is gonna exacerbate the ...
yeah even getting rid of the final bit of primer by painting the base black made it look 100x better i think lol and the red and white pops more on the models, i am not sure on doing bases yet, i have some leftover weapon bits and heads but i think for now i like plain bases anyway
keen gulch
and the dominance of reds and whites here does that very well i think
thanks 
hopefully i will see some cool armies on sunday too
cobalt summit
Generally you want neutral stuff or slightly contrasting, I think you could do like snow here and itād look good, or like black soil and dead grass
keen gulch
yeah snow would be really cool especially if i could fleck some onto the broken tower of my abhorrent
languid jay
yeah even getting rid of the final bit of primer by painting the base black made...
Getting even some sand and flock and then painting the rim black does wonders for making a model look finished.
You don't have to buy any fancy stuff for sand either, like...get some playground sand, mix it with white glue and some craft paint (brown usually) + a bit of water and just mix it until it's a slushy-like consistency. Slop it onto a base, let it dry, bam you just saved a ton of money for the same result.
(please have the mix in an air-proof jar tho you do NOT want it to dry out lmao)
cobalt summit
Dried Tea leaves is another good hack, thank u slim for that one
languid jay
Oh yeah definitely, that stuff is basically gold as far as I think.
You can probably just use it straight out of the tea bag but I prefer to actually get the tea wet first, then let it dry out over a couple of days; the belief (for me anyway) is that doing so leeches out a lot of the flavor and smell that might otherwise linger from "fresher" dried leaves.
As much as I like green tea I don't want my models to smell like it, hah.
cobalt summit
Ok a bunch of cathay models smelling like sencha would be kind of a power move though
languid jay
True!
Also: if you want to do snow, I suggest the Woodland Scenics snow they have. Mix it up with some white glue and slop it on like a paste.
Some people suggest baking soda but I'm wary of that because it will yellow over time. Supposedly you can mix some paint in there to prevent that but idk, I don't truck with that lmao
cobalt summit
Have had some success with just the GW valhallan myself but seconding the woodland scenics + glue, trains stuff is leagues ahead of wargamers most days
languid jay
GW stuff I suspect is repurposed Woodland Scenics snow, or close enough anyway. It's good stuff but overcosted. WS is practically a lifetime supply of it.
gleaming shore
how do you chums like to paint gold?
i've heard vaguely that an underlayer of bright pink makes the colour and shine much stronger, but i'm not sure how that compares on the time and effort : final outcome ratio compared to just layering the gold right on
cobalt summit
Prime white then spray gold then red wash or skintone wash/contrast for warm gold, or purple wash for cold
Highlight in a warmer silver like canoptek alloy about, then really small dots of bright silver for sharpest
cobalt summit
i've heard vaguely that an underlayer of bright pink makes the colour and shine ...
Pink undercoat does serious work for making yellow-tone stuff bright
keen gulch
Also: if you want to do snow, I suggest the Woodland Scenics snow they have. Mix...
white glue is the PVA/wood stuff right? i have so many tea bags just for aging paper lol i will cut some open
weak hornet
Might be thinking of buying army painter bottles directly from their website.
How is Warpaints Fanatics?
lime haven
I only have fanatic paint, an extremely bright pink
it's very thick. dry brushes decently?
Exhibit A
lime haven
Oh I got mine from an lgs
weak hornet
Ah
I think there's one place that has 'em.
But it's the older line of Army Painter
gleaming shore
opinions on army painter's prior range were very mixed online, but it seems like the new fanatics range is statistically far preferred
i can definitely agree from what i've used of it, bold colour, nice coverage, on the thicker side as it comes out of the dropper bottle and needs a little closer attention than usual when thinning down
humble stirrup
I always mention Valejo, they do great stuff
languid jay
Reaper Miniatures has surprisingly good paint.
gleaming shore
on a very personal level, i don't understand the appeal of reaper's paints at all
everyone around me never stops giving them glowing praise, but the ones i've tried all have weak colour and atrocious coverage that only gets worse with more coats, thinned or unthinned
languid jay
I will say that Reaper's metallics are only so-so, but I've not had a bad experience with any of their other colors.
gleaming shore
i made the mistake early on of relying on one of their off-whites as a key colour in a regiment's leader units
and that off-white was dreadful
skeleton bone? buckskin pale? one of those
languid jay
I have a bottle of Bucksin Pale somewhere, don't know how often I've used that one since I got plenty of colors of a similar hue.
cobalt summit
When yall strip models whats your ratio of simple green to water
I canāt imagine itās actually on the Hard To Clean ranking on the bottle
languid jay
I don't water it down at all.
cobalt summit
Gotcha. I was thinking abt being thrifty but its also rare I gotta do this so likeā¦ w/e
ornate tendon
After use, you can run Simple Green through a coffee filter and put it back in the bottle
But I do not dilute the product
cobalt summit
Oh you're my hero
fiery flare
Brand new bottle of speed paint. Dint see the nozzle was clogged and squeezed too hard. š¢
lime haven
Huge RIP
ornate tendon
Ulfbert, wolf lord
hell yeah +VLFBERHT+ gang
warm prawn
Using a free model to test out a texture paint I've never used before and... hey, crackley
cobalt summit
Big man is mounted on his base, coated bottom of each foot in tacky glue so weāll let that cure and see if itās enough of a bond.
last axle
Finished up the ash waste nomads I showed last week
lunar axle
Uttini..?
humble stirrup
UTTINI!
marble glacier
Delilah, the pack donkey. I have no clue what I'm going to do with the base
humble stirrup
Look, pack mules are just fun
Though, for a real recommendation Iād say it could make a good objective token
cobalt summit
Is verdigris greener than this yall think
humble stirrup
A tiny bit, but itās close
And it looks good how you applied it
Also iirc it can look different depending on how long itās been there and other factors
Like how rust can be pretty brown or shockingly orange
cobalt summit
Take 2, more green! May have to darken this down a bit but Iām diggin it, easier effect to pull off than I thought
humble stirrup
I donāt know if this is a camera thing, but it looks the same to me, maybe a bit lighter š¬
However, youāre already really close, I think itās up to you if you wanna keep fiddling with the mix
I think the first one was a bit better and a bit darker, but that could be down to camera funkiness
cobalt summit
I donāt know if this is a camera thing, but it looks the same to me, maybe a bit...
Camera funkiness I think but still good to know. This is what I get for never making a lightbox
I can push green a bit more
humble stirrup
Iād just try it on a piece of paper towel so youāre not having to go back on any more models once you get it how you like it
But itās already looking pretty good
cobalt summit
I mean, skaven looking a little uneven is kinda whatever to me in the end if it looks relatively coherent
humble stirrup
You are doing a very good job on the way itās collecting in places on the parts
cobalt summit
Its a fun puzzle to figure out the tones because verdigris is definitely bluegreen but its not the same bluegreen as anything Iāve done before on my nihilakh necrons
The dynasty they. Named the verdigris paint for even.
humble stirrup
Yeah, I think their verdigris technical paint is a bit too bright and a bit too blue
But thatās also just somewhat my preferences for somewhat more dull corrosion/rust effects on minis
cobalt summit
Nah I mean thats kinda the goal, even with a black wash these globadiers were so so so shiny
Doing like super diluted stegadon green has been doing wonders for making the metallics less overpowering
fiery flare
Was going good, even tried a zenith base coat, but then i think the wash was too strong and just...eh. dry brush did not work too well either it looks like. But, that's why I started with a troop for the first guy in have painted in like 5 years š
compact pier
Maybe a bit too strong if youāre going for a clean bone look, but thats often how youāll feel at that stage of the painting I think. Itās just part of the process and learning to see where things are going. Dry brush does look a bit overly heavy though, I agree. Possibly too much paint on the brush, or maybe overly aggressive technique? Its definitely not bad though!
lilac marsh
Yes
lilac marsh
I mean it will work
Depends on what you're after
Black wash works on every color technically
lilac marsh
Maybe try a dark brown
weak hornet
Sorta like how I did this one from way back
lime haven
brown works better on red than black but black is fine for all
compact pier
When applied over a colour, the dark black pigment of the nuln oil will filter the colour underneath, dulling and darkening it
As a wash its a very dilute paint so it will pool more in recesses etc, creating a much more opaque colour there and thus darkening much more
compact pier
Yep, agrax is just a slightly lighter, much browner colour
So it will tint the colour slightly towards brown
And give brown shadows which gives a grimy impression :)
compact pier
Washes in general are a staple of miniature painting yeah
humble stirrup
And just easily picking out details by the way it pools
weak hornet
Cool!
If I wanted to make color standout even more.
Would I use brighter colors or would I use a softer wash?
compact pier
Brighter colours over the top of the wash
To create as much contrast between the shadows and the highlights
weak hornet
And what about with basecoats? Because I used agrax yesterday night with a mini.
It was khaki.
Would doing that make the colors darker?
slender crest
dark brown wash will desaturate and darken whatever you're putting it over, yeah
if you want bright, vibrant colours you're mostly going to skip washes
weak hornet
All righty
Also, does agrax look a little shiny when it's done drying?
Noticed that in the morning
slender crest
washes can look a little bit shiny, yeah
compact pier
The current range of gw washes are quite shiny
slender crest
if it's an issue you can always hit the mini with a matte varnish
compact pier
Since they moved them to use the same ingredients as their contrast range
weak hornet
if it's an issue you can always hit the mini with a matte varnish
I might do that because the Red Bellies and their design are going to be weathered veteran mercs from the FWL.
Apparently Khaki and Red is a canon color scheme for a couple named FWL units.
weak hornet
I might do that because the Red Bellies and their design are going to be weather...
And also the blue lancers
lime haven
so, to get the best wash performance with mechs imo there's kinda a 3 step process after base coating, each step less essential if you are short on time
1.) wash
2.) drybrush back your basecoat color to return definition to the edges
3.) use the basecoat in the middle of panels to get rid of any "coffee stains" the wash left
lime haven
So here's kinda a good example of what washes do
The mauler has only been washed, and I've started to repaint the panels on the crab. The wolverine is fully "resaturated"
See how the crabs snoot is brighter than it's shoulders
weak hornet
Yeah
weak hornet
Vindy is best girl
lime haven
It's the ak47 of mechs
weak hornet
I love painting my multi-ton daughters.
_>
I should not be feeling paternal affection towards bits of plastic.
But here we are
lunar axle
Also, does agrax look a little shiny when it's done drying?
In that case, you might not have shaken the bottle enough. The washing medium is a tricky bastard and loves separate out. Shaking's vital with any paint, but with a wash, you gotta give it your best Shakira impression.
Additionally, if you happen to use metallics, it can't hurt to be weary of those as well. Using metallics will introduce flakes of, well, metal into your brush and paint water. This can contaminate any paint when you dip your brush into a pot again, but washes are even more sensitive to it. My nuln oil will forever shine a bit.
lunar axle
It's fun to see your progress.
humble stirrup
Doing the spooky ghost brigade heretic legion subfaction?
viral arch
Yeah got trench ghosts for heretics and I've got red brigade on the go for new Antioch
Tho I may do a Prussian warband on the side because a mechanized lieutenant with a tank splitter is just too cool an image in my head
cobalt summit
First of many many genestealers to come.
Pretty pleased for doing all this in one session, six hours or so?
I could stand to get faster
humble stirrup
My god, itās Three-Guns-Three-Arms Jim
thorny crystal
Gungunoa Zoro
bright turretBOT
The difference 2 years makes (cape not finished in new)
Additionally: bug that is meant to hide under emergency spaceship lighting and be hard to work out where it's looking if you can see it:
keen gulch
they look so cool i am still not sure what i want faction i want to pick lol, the dirge warband for black grail have really cool lore in their mourning stuff, trench pilgrims sticking units to the breaking wheel of the pretty anchorite models is a fun mechanic, court spells... i think i'd pick temple of metamorphosis but they're not gonna be out for a year or two
the brassy metal look on the ghosts metal is nice
viral arch
the brassy metal look on the ghosts metal is nice
Dirty down rust applied over steel. Learned the hard way that shit has rank fumes tho so next time I use it I'm doing so in my spray booth
weak hornet
Quick question, anyone ever used gundam paint for non-gundam models?
Ya know, the tamiya paint that comes in those circle bottles?
languid jay
I've used a couple of the clear ones.
weak hornet
How did that go?
languid jay
The clear red is really useful for blood effects and a shiny red color for armor. Kind of a "candy apple" red when used right.
Clear orange is more situational but I've used it as a filter on top of red, orange, and yellow when doing lava bases.
weak hornet
Ohhhhh
I've been thinking about picking them up but the warning label has scared me off a couple times.
lunar axle
So Tamiya paints are, IIRC, lacquer based paints. They're different from acrylic paints in that they're not water based, will usually not require primer to bond, but will require thinner and better brush cleaning. They don't always play nice together with other types of paint. They can be sanded and even polished for some interesting results, but are usually a bit too much of a hassle to use for miniatures, where it's nice to be able to switch colours on the fly and have the shorter drying times of acrylic.
That being said, there's (almost) no wrong way to paint miniatures, and I know of a friend that had a fair amount of success painting minis entirely in enamels.
This table says it fairly well. It appears Tamiya also has some acrylics, but they're not considered 'true' acrylics as they still use a special medium.
humble stirrup
So Tamiya paints are, IIRC, lacquer based paints. They're different from acrylic...
Also need actual paint thinner and not just water iirc?
I could be wrong on that though
lunar axle
Aff, it appears they do.
idle girder
long fangs can take 6 plasma cannons
humble stirrup
This seems like one of the real potential issues for the new points system lol
weak hornet
So, when I get paid.
I'm probably gonna invest in more dropper style bottles and pony up to get some smart strip.
halcyon goblet
***long fangs can take 6 plasma cannons***
honestly i still think you should be able to at least upgrade grey hunters to single hand bolters and hace them duel weild them with bolt pistols
True Grit.....
warm prawn
Working through the Deathrattle box... I feel like this needs a drybrush of something sandy
cobalt summit
Working through the Deathrattle box... I feel like this needs a drybrush of some...
For dry earth I like a desaturated yellow drybrush -> dirt wash -> bone drybrush
lilac marsh
Working through the Deathrattle box... I feel like this needs a drybrush of some...
Maybe wash the whole thing with one color to try to unify the browns the cold grays, and the bright colors?
cobalt summit
Whats folks favorite stripping methods - Iāve had these GSC soaking in simple green since the 15th and had no success stripping anything, just giving em the chemical stank and making em feel kinda tacky
lilac marsh
91% isopropyl
weak hornet
Yeah
But see what happens with 50 or 70 first.
The higher percent does good work but it can really do some unwanted stuff if you're not careful.
warm prawn
Maybe wash the whole thing with one color to try to unify the browns the cold gr...
I have already done an all-over with Agrax Earthshade.
That's why I was thinking the "sand" drybrush to unify it
lilac marsh
I have already done an all-over with Agrax Earthshade.
That's why I was thinking...
That could also help
cobalt summit
GSC wips. Trying to differentiate purples between the acolytes and the more human models.!
Probably could use some more rakarth flesh highlights on the primus
twin willow
What kinda colors should i add to this bad boy?
(secondary colors)
I plan to add dirty down moss to the body to make it look like algae, and maybe i'll try to find some miniature seaweed
lime haven
I'm always partial to blues - a deep ocean blue or a seaglass greenish blue could serve as a good trim color
lunar axle
Blue would contrast the rust nicely, so that's definitely a good call. I'm also inclined to say a dark green or dark red.
warm prawn
Update:
cobalt summit
Primis gettin close to done, still thinking on what I wanna do with the cysts on the sword. Debating fluorescents.
warm prawn
Finally working on the Wight king proper
wide dawn
Blue would contrast the rust nicely, so that's definitely a good call. I'm also ...
could also play it as verdigris
feral kettle
Took 3 sessions over like 6 months but I finally finished my lil swarmy babies. gonna do skorpekh destroyers next. super excited for that.
(I'm still a terrible photographer)
manic raven
Those look super nice!
Undercoats for all the rest of my planes. Working on a large epic 40k game/diorama for the fall and the rest of my Aeronautica planes are first in line.
Most of them are going to be my normal green but im considering a desert camo for a subset of them.
lunar axle
Nice rack you got.
fiery flare
Diving backing and trying g to see which version of gold to use. I'm leaning to green, but always like a second opinion.
lunar axle
The green is fun, a little different from the usual skeleton scheme.
languid jay
Seconding the green.
languid jay
Purple is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel and goes well as a contrast.
weak hornet
Ohhhhh
Yeah, I might rework my scheme for the Blue Lancers.
Olive drab body, blue arms, and yellow heads.
Could red and orange also work too with yellow?
languid jay
They're complimentary colors to yellow so I don't see why not.
warm prawn
Trying to figure out how I want to do the blades on these skeletons. Vote now!
feral kettle
Green!
fiery flare
green, or pink
warm prawn
Further experimentation.
tawny glen
My spooky bois are coming together nicely but idk what color to do the little fires on their laterns and head :[
echo birch
Ghastly blue.
weak hornet
Anyone ever ordered paint from Gnomish Bazaar?
granite fox
not rylanor!!!
lilac marsh
It's not coming along fast, but it's coming along well
wide dawn
Looking gorgeous!
fiery flare
Had a spare contemptor so I got an idea lol
Rylanor deserves better than you O primarch!
feral kettle
expand rack
weak hornet
Yes
warm prawn
Barrow Legion (and WH+ Anniversary mini) coming along
lilac marsh
Still needs a little more work but I'm very happy with the fire
lunar axle
Juggernaut rounds out the MCP collection. I forgot how much fun comic book style is.
wide dawn
that rocks!
weak hornet
Hey, so, quick question. With all the tariffs and stuff, how much of a jump would paint see in prices?
lilac marsh
Depends heavily on where it's manufactured
weak hornet
True, true.
lime haven
Vallejo is Spain for example iirc
tawny glen
Spoopy boy :3
