Miniature painting 🎨

[glad shale]

Which if u did, i reccomend stripping instead

[distant holly]

Oh

fuuuuck

[languid jay]

1. It doesn't look like it was applied thick. White primer is a fucker and can trick you. Don't stress it too much.
2. You can see a bit of white showing through which isn't bad, just means you need to work on brush control and coverage. That is 99% of painting.
3. You can do a lot of hiding with washes over a base coat and then highlighting from there. Which leads me to
4. Trust The Process™️ and finish the model first. Lots of times things will look bad while painting until suddenly it doesn't.

[distant holly]

I primed over old paint layers..

I should have stripped the paint first but I was so focused on seeing how my painting had improved I just primed and jumped into it

[languid jay]

Also yeah don't prime over old paint layers unless you cannot avoid it, like if stripping the old layers just didn't take. Which happens sometimes, I've had ebay rescues that are just me scratching my head going "what the FUCK did they paint this with"

You can just paint over old paint layers.

[distant holly]

shit

This is the before by the way

Now I’m tempted to strip and just start all over.. it’s going to lose detail if I just add more paint

[languid jay]

If it's just one model then you're not losing any real time.

[lilac marsh]

White primer just kinda sucks usually unless you shake it for 5 years

But also priming over paint layers is basically never needed

[distant holly]

Fuuuck

I completely forgot to strip

I’ll find alcohol and strip down all the models and begin again

This time with citadel I don’t trust the rustoleum

[lilac marsh]

unless you strip all the way to plastic you dont need to re-prime

[distant holly]

I wanted the same level of detail and skill as my skitarii

[lilac marsh]

primer is only needed to help the first paint layer bind to plastic

[languid jay]

Yeah.

[distant holly]

I need to strip all of them down basically

[lilac marsh]

itll be hard to strip the primer tbh

[distant holly]

It’s a thick primer too.. my dad got the first primer he saw

Which was for binding paint

[lilac marsh]

might be better off just rolling with it

[distant holly]

oh god it’ll look like shit

[lilac marsh]

those guardsmen look fine

[full hinge]

Yeah those look fine

[lilac marsh]

if you try and rub off all the primer itll probably look worse

[distant holly]

Oh

It just doesn’t look the same as this level of effort

And the fact that the model itself is squat and close together makes painting details hard

[full hinge]

Those sculpts are also like 15 years older

[lilac marsh]

honestly you could benefit from spending a lil more time removing the cut marks from the sprue and mold lines

[distant holly]

Yeah.. I built these guys like two years ago

[lilac marsh]

but yeah you can always just paint over all the existing paint

[distant holly]

Tried my best with a nail file and clippers

[lilac marsh]

you dont need more primer

[distant holly]

I guess it’ll look better once I’ve actually painted it fully

Then I’ll judge if it’s worth it for the rest

I’m gonna stop for today this was rather disheartening

[lilac marsh]

you should let primer cure overnight anyways

[distant holly]

I did

[glad shale]

I think you do if the base layer wasnt primed

Which might be the case here

https://www.goonhammer.com/hobby-101-priming/

[lilac marsh]

primer cant bind to the plastic if the plastic is already covered in paint, you'd need to strip first

otherwise the primer is just grabbing paint which is loosely held to the plastic

[distant holly]

I got the cadian box with the new ish upgrade sprue

More heads and stuff

It can’t be that old, can it?

[lilac marsh]

a lot of the tau range is pretty old

it just aged well

[distant holly]

Yeah that’s a pretty big difference

Well

I have one friend who says it looks lumpy and I should strip everything

And I’m undecided on what to do

And my hands hurt ngl

[lilac marsh]

stripping primer is hard, just see how it looks when painted

if its really bad, then go through the effort of stripping

[full hinge]

The old Cadians are from 2003 they just aged really well

[distant holly]

I was super excited to repaint them lol

I didn’t consider the consequences

[full hinge]

But you'll probably notice the difference between them and like a 2015 sculpt

[distant holly]

This is the baseline so it can probably only improve

[full hinge]

Especially since they're older than GW using CAD to make sculpts so they're actually a hand sculpted mini

Which is always gonna have a different vibe

[distant holly]

I was split on it being just like

It’s an old sculpt of course it’s not gonna look like my skitarii

But even the heavy metal guys painted the old sculpts with a ton of detail I’m sure I can apply this to this

I don’t really use shades or anything special

Maybe a contrast over metallic for energy glow

[glad shale]

Yeah, strip and reprime imo

[full hinge]

Paint stripping isn't super hard its just slow

[slender crest]

it's just leaving it in a tub overnight and going at it with a toothbrush the next day

[distant holly]

Alright

Can I use acetone?

I only have 70% isopropyl

[languid jay]

Do not, do not use acetone.

Acetone will melt the plastic into a slurry.

[full hinge]

Acetone melts plastic yeah

[languid jay]

It's great for metal models but absolutely nothing else.

Also: check your cleaning supplies for something like LA's Totally Awesome degreaser, or other degreaser cleaning products. They work very well for stripping paint.

[full hinge]

Isopropyl is good and there's a bunch of other solvents which are also pretty good but not really better so it depends on what you have

[distant holly]

Maybe I’ll just need to use the 70% I guess

[full hinge]

I think ideally you want 91% or higher

[distant holly]

I found some 91

Not a lot

Can I combine it with the 70

[languid jay]

You'd just be diluting the 91%.

[distant holly]

Oh

[full hinge]

If you don't have a lot of if you can try just brushing it onto the model (don't use a brush you paint with) and scrubbing it off later

[distant holly]

I found enough

[slender crest]

I always just used [window cleaner brand of choice]

[ornate tendon]

Simple Green is imho absolutely The Thing for stripping paint

It’s nontoxic, safe to handle, doesn’t damage plastic or resin, and it beats the shit out of the toughest enamel primers

And you can find it just about anywhere

Soak overnight, scrub with toothbrush under warm water, rinse and repeat as necessary

[distant holly]

Do I rinse off the alcohol?

[languid jay]

Yes, although alcohol will evaporate anyway it's better to do the thing than not just in case.

Usually I just scrub models with an olf brush under running tap water to do both at once.

[slender crest]

yeah you don't want any lingering residues that'll interfere with the new primer

[distant holly]

Oh

I had to go do chores it dried off on its own

Doesn’t feel like it left any residue

[slender crest]

would give it a rinse anyways

[lilac marsh]

Isopropyl doesn't leave reisdue because it evaporates

And like

Doesn't really have impurities when you get it from the bottle

[glad shale]

Ive had weird residue after stripping with isopropyl

But it might have also been from the water i rinsed it with being too hard

[compact pier]

current wips

really happy with aquilon test model

and the chestplate looks great with some paint on it

finishing off stormcast is turning into a bit of a marathon but I'm getting there

making camo patterns is weird but I think I've ended up fairly happy with 'paint a triangle and put a little black line somewhere' regardless of how well that would work realistically :P

[wide dawn]

yeah great results!

[compact pier]

Thank you!!

[wide dawn]

Fits the mask well too

[gleaming shore]

is basing glue actually meaningfully different from non-washable PVA in any way?

[languid jay]

No, you can just use regular PVA.

[gleaming shore]

i suspected as much

[glad shale]

i need to get some pva

[languid jay]

Good ol' Elmers will do the work just fine.

[glad shale]

i tried that at one point and all of it broke off the base eventually

[languid jay]

It might depend on which Elmers you get. Deffo avoid any "easy to clean/kids" Elmers, that shit is trash.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/seo/Elmer-s-Xacto-Multi-Purpose-Glue_85684208-60fe-4f6b-9e99-aeda8c1777aa.f4a5ae4a762820d95a7f24ba77138fa3.jpeg

This has always served me well and a bottle will last me years and years.

[glad shale]

Aaah

That was almost certainly the problem

I used some old white glue from when i was a kid

[humble stirrup]

Yeah I just use Elmer’s glue lol

It Just Works

Good enough for macaroni art, good enough for putting sand/tufts on a base

[languid jay]

Mod Podge also works, though I kinda prefer Elmer's.

[humble stirrup]

Got my first ever 3D printed miniature! Unfortunately the guy tried to do me a favor and spray painted it without asking me so I may have to strip it to get back to the resin base and do my own lighter primer coat, but overall it looks like it turned out mostly pretty good and that the scale is correct

Well, the scale is a little odd since the infantry miniatures have bases that make them taller, but that’s just how it be with wargames sometimes

[full hinge]

clearly you just gotta base the hummer

[humble stirrup]

I mean maybe, but I always feel weird about basing vehicles

[glad shale]

Ive been warming to the idea

I think if you approach every mini as a micro-diorama it makes sense

[humble stirrup]

Hmmm, maybe just one that’s exactly the footprint, idk

It’d still mean that it’d be slightly risen above table terrain

[glad shale]

Yeah it doesnt fully gel but minis are already in that position

[lilac marsh]

Angry Moo Deng got 2nd place in a 1 hour speed paint competition Ata convention. Not bad for an unprimed mini with ratty free brushes.

[misty horizon]

Better than anything I’ve ever made

[lilac marsh]

Gotta get those highlights

[humble stirrup]

That seems to be only slightly exaggerating Moo Deng’s violence

One of her first act was to violently nibble on her caretaker

[cobalt summit]

I may be late to this but if you grab the specific Painter’s Touch rustoleum primer its basically king as far as I’m concerned

[distant holly]

Oh ok!

[cobalt summit]

You gotta make sure you do real fast passes with the spraying but the coverage is nuts for that and it’ll dry real thin & even

[distant holly]

For the primer I currently have

Should I shake it for much longer than a minute?

Also how should I move the can when spraying minis?

[lime haven]

Shake until your hand hurts is my advice, try to get well over a minute

[cobalt summit]

Two minutes, shake it horizontally back n forth and move arm in clockwise motion to get it swirlin

When you’re spraying, keep it abt 18 inches away from the models, quick horizontal swipes across the full surface

Might take a while, might take a second application later

[cobalt summit]

Baby’s first banner freehand starts now

I may cry

[compact pier]

good luck!!! you got this!

[cobalt summit]

Good recommendation for anybody else painting yellow: basecoat it in the hottest pink you can find

This is like. One coat Emperor’s Children, two coats Yriel Yellow on black prime and its bright as shit

[idle girder]

Fire hard

[warm prawn]

Here's a little thing I worked on yesterday. (The skellyfriend, not the blood knight)

[wide dawn]

I like the fancy colors on the skel!

[warm prawn]

Thanks! (I was actually really on the fence about this scheme)

[cobalt summit]

Fucked the grid already but we perservere

[languid jay]

It's Skaven so when all else fails, cover it with filth/splash of blood.

[cobalt summit]

Truly the best trump card

“Yeah its supposed to look like shit look at these idiots”

[languid jay]

lmao yeah

I lucked out in finding an old 5e-era mounted chaos knight with a banner pole and it should be in on Monday, gonna get real fancy and make him the army banner bearer.

[cobalt summit]

Oh Hell Yeah

[languid jay]

Gotta figure out what I'm gonna go with tho.

Might dig around for some reeaaaaal old banners and adapt/copy one, since this is mostly a lot of old-school chaos models.

https://leadmountainwidow.wordpress.com/banners-and-standards-and-flags-oh-no/ Oh yeah I still have this tab open

[warm prawn]

I am very much considering the Agender flag just, like, tilted 45 degrees for this standard-bearer.

Skeletons have no gender, only bones.

[cobalt summit]

Highly recommend, I think my skaven one is super outdated

From old WHFB stuff

Oh that resolution is shit lemme find a better one

[cobalt spire]

This is the old Skaven Heraldry book, ye?

[cobalt summit]

Side 1 and side 2.

For first time freehand I think it went pretty well lol pen control on all the nooks n crannies gonna need a lot of practice

[languid jay]

Hell yeah.

Using an actual pen?

[cobalt summit]

005 micron pen for all of it

[languid jay]

That's the way to do it.

It's what I used for this ol' banner.

[cobalt summit]

Now thats the good shit

I still need to set up a lightbox

[languid jay]

Honestly you could get away with this (not mine, forgot where I got it from)

A bright enough light facing the model at roughly a 45 degree angle with a backdrop of some sort will do 90% of the work. It doesn't have to be fancy.

Now if you want to get a little fancy...

[wide dawn]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/813451425040302170/1297368493376929823/IMG_20241019_211512278_HDR.jpg?ex=6715ac10&is=67145a90&hm=80424106dea5f040b3fdd300d4e97394c05c9686d43bdc86174c5c07938c63f5& Missing head is because I bought some third-party FSM heads but they're metal and I realized I need heavier-duty clippers for them, lol. This is the second infantry unit I've done in this scheme but it's over three times as many models as the first, so it taught me where to cut corners for infantry blobs.

[wide tartan]

Hmm
Friends
Looking for advice
For magnetic miniature carrying cases, does anyone have any recommendations?
I'm only playing infinity, so it needs to hold like... 30 models tops but I'd prefer to store my whole collection in there

[glad shale]

I bought a 30 dollar steel toolbox from canadian tire

[humble stirrup]

Well, I just made my own with some snap top boxes and magnetic receptive sheeting cut to size

Wasn’t hard aside from having to order the sheeting rather than just buy it at a store

https://youtu.be/eKg8oPF4xfk

The only thing is that unless you find some boxes that you can strap together or something you’d have to put the boxes in another box to keep ‘em together

But for a smaller amount of minis (like my 20 or so modern military minis and 6 spacemen) just putting them in a small box works great

I could get a picture of what I made if it’d help

Also I’d estimate that this cost me like $15 all told (accounting only for stuff used in making that specific one, I have other spare parts to make others left over)

The reason I’m recommending using magnetic receptive sheeting is that since it is not magnetic itself (it’s just iron or steel shavings in a rubber mat) the polarity of the magnets on your minis don’t matter so you don’t get that really terrible “oh no, half are repelled from the case, I fucked up” realization

Also, it’s a little less magnetic than just a steel plate which can be a good thing, since you don’t want to have the connection be so strong you risk ripping parts off the mini to get it off

Sorry if I went on this a bit long

Also, there are pre-made versions of these available, but if you’re willing to make one yourself you can save a good bit of money and customize it to your use-case (basically you can use any container that you can glue the sheeting down on)

So, you could get one big box, or several smaller ones to split stuff up by faction, game, etc

Sorry if I went on a bit long winded about that

[wide tartan]

All good, the advice is appreciated!

I think I'll make some of those and then make something to travel with them

[humble stirrup]

Yeah the one issue is not having a nice handle to carry em around

Though you could try and find some case with a handle to put ‘em in

[glad shale]

i know a guy who made this

and it worked really well

the toolbox is the fast and dirty solution

i reccomend it if you need a stopgap in the meantime

im happy with it so far but i havent actually used it for its intended transport purpose much for a variety of reasons

[languid jay]

If you got a Michaels nearby check them out because I got this shit for 5 bucks a pop and it is incredibly perfect for most games.

[humble stirrup]

…I should look to see if there’s one nearby

[languid jay]

https://www.michaels.com/shop/holidays-occasions/halloween/diy-halloween-crafts/diy-wood-ceramic-crafts If they aren't they're going for the same price online.

And there's more variety than what I saw in store.

[twin fern]

Yall think maccrage blue or trollslayer orange for squad markings/rank markings?

i figure blue blends better and would pop nicely, but orange is a stronger contrast as far as color wheeling it

[lunar axle]

I'd say you could use both for different squads.

[twin fern]

hmm could do, though i was hoping to use it as a recurring accent across the army

rather than specific to individual squads

[compact pier]

i think orange would be a great sept colour

[twin fern]

hmm i could test on a spare head.... any advice on how to get a straight stripe on a firewarrior head? Do I just need masking tape?

[compact pier]

uhh

[twin fern]

someone suggested i do a stripe instead of a solid

[compact pier]

my advice is to practice a bunch

[twin fern]

for shas'ui n stuff

[compact pier]

like get a spare. anything and just practice painting straight lines

it's a good skill to have and will be much quicker than masking

[twin fern]

yeah i def imagine

my hands are just shaky tbh, unpracticed

getting a dot exactly where i want it to be is a challenge

[lunar axle]

You can always go back with your background colour, that's the easiest way to get clean lines.

[wide dawn]

I may be misremembering but I think there are some creases in the helmet that can help?

[twin fern]

along the sides yeah

might be a good reference point

[compact pier]

woah forwarding is convenient

oh it actually shows where I forwarded it from if it's not from a dm haha

Really happy with test bug and contrast based schemes are just so fuuun I need to do more

[lunar axle]

This is one of if not the first paint scheme I've seen where Contrast actually feels appropriate. I usually don't like their finish at all, but on the bug it gives an appropriate sort of texturing.

[compact pier]

it works so much better with organic shapes

and when you build stuff up on top of it

[humble stirrup]

Yeah, I’ve seen some real good stuff done with flesh/organic stuff

Especially grody Nurgle stuff

I’m not a huge fan of contrast in my own personal use, but I’ve seen some good stuff made with it

[lunar axle]

Agreed. Either that, or putting them over true metallics for a bit of fun.

[cobalt summit]

My best trick for vivid gold is skintone contrasts over retributor

Guilliman Flesh or Fyreslayer Flesh does some serious work

Unrelated, rat ogre WIP

[lunar axle]

Interesting. Once I tire of my poor attempts at NMM, I might give this a try.

[twin fern]

WIP but does the orange clash or does it work?

On the ear piece

Trying to decide between blue and orange

If it works ill go over it with another layer or two

[compact pier]

i like it but yeah needs more layers

[wide dawn]

Agreed

[twin fern]

Ok

Awesome

Thank you

Still not done but

[wide dawn]

👍

[warm prawn]

Wight King

[gleaming shore]

hello fellow paint-sniffers; how has other people's experience been with halfords automobile spray primers?

i've heard mixed but distinctly polarised opinions online, and i did a test piece on sprues to verify myself

the white i'm very happy with, the finish is just as bright and even smoother than white scar, but i think there's some pooling and undercoverage of raised details and other extremities with the grey

i could have just been too heavy-handed with the application, but the different style of packaging implies a different formula

[languid jay]

https://vxtwitter.com/DicenDemons/status/1818330632088330720

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khA08XtPRNI&ab_channel=Dice'ndemons Low-key brilliant

[lunar axle]

Slowly working through some BMG minis before the DC campaign files hit.

[granite fox]

wip

[granite fox]

wip

[compact pier]

looking good!

eyes came out great

[glad shale]

JOAN

shame you cant run her and a fuckton of tags in n5

[glad shale]

Was fucking around with some colours and i love this scheme i found for my mordheim lizards

[warm prawn]

Trying some freehanding. (Also in this picture, an attempt at the "gem" effect)

[humble stirrup]

Hey, when soaking something in simple green, do y’all leave it a full day before using a toothbrush or do you lightly scrub, put it back, and repeat sooner than that?

Like, should it just sit for a while and then I try removing paint that didn’t come off or should I be trying, putting it back, trying again?

[languid jay]

Depends on the paint, really.

I go with minimum 24 hours, then check. If the paint is falling away easily then good to go. If it seems more stubborn, I let it sit for a couple days and try again.

[ornate tendon]

24 hrs, toothbrush under the faucet, more time in the green if necessary

[humble stirrup]

Gotcha, I don’t know how sticky the paint is gonna turn out to be

[ornate tendon]

Depends on what sort

[humble stirrup]

I didn’t choose to prime it like this, another person did it as a misguided favor

[ornate tendon]

Enamels usually take a couple reps

[humble stirrup]

Some kind of non-model paint for sure, I didn’t see the can

[ornate tendon]

Some non-model paints are great! I love rattle can auto body primer

In part because they are extremely durable enamels

[humble stirrup]

This is not the good stuff, it still somewhat tacky to the touch and seems kinda thick

And this has been weeks later

[languid jay]

Entirely possible it has had some adverse chemical reaction with the printed material.

Like, Reaper Bones (the off-white original formula) was not friendly to a number of primers, especially Krylon. Made things sticky.

[humble stirrup]

Its 3D printed, the print medium is I think Prusa UV Activated resin?

[languid jay]

Well, it should be fine to dunk in the simple green at least. But I don't know quite enough about how 3D printer resin to say exactly what is going on there.

That's mostly just my guess w/r/t chemical reaction. It should come off the model eventually.

[humble stirrup]

Okay, did some checking, considering people are saying to use it to clean it after printing it I’d assume it’s fine

[ornate tendon]

I’ve never used it on a print, but the green is reliably safe for cast resin in my experience

[manic raven]

It's fine for prints, I've used it a few times.

Ymmv with different resins, but I've stripped a few different types without issue

[humble stirrup]

Well, it’s been about 36 hours and I’ve done a few scrubbings. It’s starting to be coming off on the the edges, and a few flakes from the edges onto the flat sections, so I’m probably just gonna keep soaking and scrubbing every 12 hours or so

I’m hoping that the increased surface area where it’s come off will mean that there’s more places it can work on the adhering surface so it’ll kinda start to snowball in effectiveness

Though I have no idea if that’s how it works or if you’re just replaying on it soaking through the surface and having exposed edges won’t mean it’ll have more to work at

…I hope I explained what I’m thinking there well, it makes sense in my head

Basically I dunno how solvents like this work

[languid jay]

I think the ideal outcome is that enough of the primer comes off that it's no longer tacky and you can then prime it yourself.

Well, probably more "realistic" outcome than ideal, the actual ideal is all the primer comes off.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah it’s probably fine if it’s on some of the flat surfaces like the cargo hatch (I’m doing this on a Humvee model) but I’d just worry about how it’s got that eternal tackiness

This is definitely some thick stuff

Not the Good Shit

Unfortunately it’s good enough to be very durable

[languid jay]

One time I accidentally used Krylon on a Reaper model and it was tacky, so I hit it with a matte varnish as an experiment and that seemed to keep the tackiness from affecting anything. Layers of paint, then more varnish after that, and you couldn't even tell.

[humble stirrup]

Yeah it might have been krylon or something cheap that’d be in a university engineering lab

(A guy at the university manufacturing lab is printing up some vehicle models for me)

Gonna get some humvees and some pickups to turn into technicals

I want to get a 3D resin printer of my own someday, but that’s gonna wait until I get settled into a job

But this experience of getting these models has me very excited about doing it myself someday

[ornate tendon]

That’s been my theory and I think borne out by experience; once you break the envelope, as it were, the solvent starts to infiltrate under the edges of the remaining paint

1:100 humvees?

[humble stirrup]

1/50

[humble stirrup]

Update: taking a fingernail in a glove over some the the surface caused a lot of it to just come right off, I’m confident this is working now

Might try lightly using a toothpick later, for now I’m outing it back in the simple green to keep soaking the newly exposed edges

I think I was being a little too gentle with it, but I also don’t wanna loop around and scratch the resin so I’m still gonna be careful with it

I think I’ll use the toothbrush to get off the easy stuff and probe for weakness with my fingernail or a toothpick

[slender crest]

what do people like for white primers these days?

[manic raven]

Monument's white primer is decent, and I hear great things about their new spray primer.

[viral arch]

Just the nexus left and my S2D army will be done!

[humble stirrup]

Quick update, the Humvee seems as good as it’s gonna get, which seems pretty good

[cobalt summit]

Really digging the blue on these nice work

[viral arch]

Terrain done, that's the full army finished

[wide dawn]

And that's another character done! Until I get transfers.

[cinder shore]

Other recent cause I don't think I shared here

[cobalt summit]

Gettin my nightbringer dolled up finally, 1k point tourney tomorrow

[cobalt summit]

Really love this purple btw, that stuff is RICH

Tyrian drip in the 41st millennium

[humble stirrup]

Oooh, looks good

[cinder shore]

It just takes a good layer or 2 of wraithbone base and then a few layers of luxion purple contast

[cobalt summit]

Luxion… good to know. I haven’t fucked with contrast much at all

[cinder shore]

I like it because it's thinner that the paints and leaves things shinier

[languid jay]

https://bsky.app/profile/delaneyking.bsky.social/post/3lb2ieuofes2s

[cinder shore]

The color under also matters. Here's it with rich gold and black

[compact pier]

oooooh

nice!!!

[languid jay]

Adidas stripes

[compact pier]

Old project but took pictures and they look coool

minis are from Anvil Industries' daughters of the burning rose range

[languid jay]

They're finally putting the burning rose range up as STLs.

[compact pier]

yeah! just next month for the last bonus drop

I'm excited to do stuff with it when I get around to buying more resin lol. Feel a lil guilty cause I just wanna redo all the projects I did with the cast bits that I never got around to finishing with digital kitbash + scale matched to gw sisters

[languid jay]

You should only feel guilty for the projects you didn't finish. Redoing them is totally acceptable.

[languid jay]

Speaking of projects: I'm back on my bullshit.

[compact pier]

ohhhhh

crisp!!!!

that's dope

[languid jay]

Not mine btw, but it's what I'm aiming for.

[compact pier]

ahh fair

[languid jay]

going for a retro BA list with Grimdark Future. Assault marines, death company, etc.

Furioso dread if I can find one for a not-stupid price.

Naturally the dread will have a banner.

[wide dawn]

Niiice, Burning Rose whips ass

I wanna use 'em as Solar Auxilia sometime

[compact pier]

ohhhh that would be so dope!!!!!

fuck. that's good

I don't need another project like that but sisters of silence + solar auxilia with dbr for the latter? that would be so fuckin dope

[languid jay]

Consider it a future project

[compact pier]

maybe by then sisters of silence will actually have a range, lmao

[wide dawn]

Personally I was thinking of them as Word Bearers allies

[compact pier]

oooh yeah that would be dope too

followers of cyrene maybe

[wide dawn]

I had the phrase "witch-knights" in mind but it got real high concept real fast, lol

Was thinking I could invert the WB color scheme, do silver armor and dark red undersuit/highlights

[compact pier]

oooooooh yesss

[cinder shore]

Done enough for my tastes

[lunar axle]

Doing some experiments for a possible tile system for my own game.

A lot to improve still, but this shows promise.

[lunar axle]

This is miles better already.

[manic raven]

Some terrain making I've done today! Didn't know Battletech would give me an interest in flower arrangement.

About 3/4 done, just some finishing touches left.

[lime haven]

that is incredible.
I want to start getting into terrain making, and the idea of making a roseblossom-filled BT field appeals to me.

[manic raven]

If you do let me know and I can share tips. Most of it is pretty easy, just moderately time consuming.

[glad shale]

I saw noe.hammer on yt sculpt a cherry tree on top of a necron construct

And now ive been hunting for a place to put one

In something i make

[viral arch]

Finished up a load of tzeentch

[austere swift]

The raddest Thunderbolt in the Inner Sphere

[lime haven]

mechwarriors will see this and say "hell yeah"

[idle girder]

Sanest Solaris jockey

[austere swift]

"So here I am,
doing everything I can.
Holding on to what I am.
Pretending I am a Tallman."

[cobalt summit]

That green is tasty

Good shit

[wide tartan]

That's a nice Tikbalang
Looks surprisingly edible...

[cinder shore]

Death bug

[gleaming shore]

just found this gem on ebay

Pro Painted Warhammer 40k necrons Indomitus Royal Warden games workshop

only $25 (or best offer)

this is what my anxiety tells me that every model i've used tesseract glow on looks like

[full hinge]

object source flashbang

[magic night]

mfer got an airbrush and decided that made them a good painter

[compact pier]

who even searches pro painted

[gleaming shore]

the seller is an established and reputable one for painted models that don't look like court evidence for a restraining order placed on an airbrush

so i have no idea what's going on here

[cobalt summit]

You gotta reframe it—no matter what you do, intentionally placed tesseract glow will never look this bad

Feelin better about mine already lmfao

[humble stirrup]

His bro right next to him just got damaged badly enough to be teleported back to the tomb, and you mock him?

[lilac marsh]

Clown time

[lunar axle]

Hell yeah, Harlequins are so neat in design.

[lunar axle]

Jeremy Hughes, a full time diorama artist, made this little piece using my Sci-fi Art Nouveau base design.

[sand carbon]

I forgot that LoL version of Vi has pauldrons

[languid jay]

https://bsky.app/profile/vgondra.bsky.social/post/3lbu6ednijs2y

Víctor Gondra (@vgondra.bsky.social)

Vallejo Acrylics workers on indefinite strike.

English translation in the thread

#wargaming #miniaturepainting #warhammercommunity #warhammer #oldworld #paintingwarhammer #nerdlings

www.viaempresa.cat/es/empresa/9...

Bluesky · Nov 26, 2024, 1:46 PM

[lilac marsh]

Clown time

[cinder shore]

Aside from shading and clean up, done i think

The twin is on the way

[lunar axle]

First two D-Listers done for BMG. Some six more to go.

[wide dawn]

What's a good My First Airbrush.... Tent Box Thing?

[lilac marsh]

Shoe box

Bonus points if you cut a hole in the top and point a lamp through it

[wide dawn]

Lemme elaborate: as a Christmas gift

[lilac marsh]

Ohhh, pretty much any of the ones for like $100 on amazon

With a light an extraction fan

[marble glacier]

Did up one of the Leviathan termies as a Space Shark

Now I'm poking away at an Ultramarine legionnaire from the 22nd "Nemesis" chapter

[languid jay]

That's some tidy lines, damn.

[wide dawn]

Yeah, great freehand on both! The hourglass on the powerfist is a great touch

[cobalt summit]

Absolutely bitchin freehand to do on a curved surface like that

Crushing it

Doin my next skaven banner in a moment and fingers crossed I can measure up lol

[languid jay]

Doing it on a plastic banner?

[cobalt summit]

Yeah, just some clanrats. Micron pens again

[languid jay]

I like to make a test run on some paper/cardstock first, since that's disposable and much easier to try again on.

Just trace out the general shape of the banner and go 2 it, basically.

[cobalt summit]

Oh see thats very smart but I just went and started doing it lmao

[languid jay]

lol

fuck it we ball

[cobalt summit]

So I got too excited and smudged the pen inside the sigil but its all thin enough I think I can paint back to white inside that circle and start fresh. Very pleased with the rest of it

[compact pier]

nice!

[languid jay]

Hell yeah

[cobalt summit]

truly. playing skaven is carrying my freehands every fuckup looks diegetic

[marble glacier]

Yo that's fire 🔥

[marble glacier]

Added a bit of weathering and then hit it with an oil wash. I see why people rave about it, it's like an easy "add contrast" button. I'll need to reapply the matte varnish once it dries tomorrow though.

[humble stirrup]

Nuln oil and Agrax Earthshade are magic and should be worshiped

[cobalt summit]

Did you skip right to freehanding weathering like that before doing oil washes

Great googly moogly

[floral pagoda]

Oil washes my beloved

The Scale 75 soilworks washes are perfect straight out of the bottle

Highly recommend if you don't want to fiddle with consistency

[marble glacier]

I sponged on the weathering and then underlined it to sell the effect. My sponge was a little too fine, I think. I want to find a courser one.

[marble glacier]

I'll take a look and see if they're easy to get in Canada. It would be nice to not mess with mixing. After this tester model, my plan was to paint everything up to the weathering stage and then to a big oil wash pass

[floral pagoda]

You can order from Magic Stronghold in Canada

[marble glacier]

Thanks!

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5WX7MhF48Y&ab_channel=BlackMagicCraft How timely.

[twin willow]

Trying to finally settle on a tyranid color scheme (dark grey and a sandy-ish color)

[lunar axle]

Took some pictures of the squads for my MECHCOM starter set.

Gonna put them on the side of the box, so people know what'll be in it.

[cobalt summit]

Second side has gone much better than the first lol.

[crude pumice]

finally got this resin printed dragon painted and based for a friend of mine.

[lilac marsh]

Do you have a link to where you got this stl?

[crude pumice]

wasn't my own stl sadly

friend of mine got it from a seller at a convention

[lunar axle]

Slowly getting some work in on my DCU stuff.

Knight Models sculpts always feel to me like they have this real deep uncanny valley. Their sculpts look amazing, then once basecoated they look like absolute garbage, and only once some highlights are added do they slowly start improving again.

[lime haven]

I feel like most minis look like mass produced garbage with only a basecoat.

[humble stirrup]

It’s part of why washes are magic that should be worshiped

Putting one on can make you go from “oh man I’m a terrible painter” to “hmm, wait, maybe im actually good at this”

[lunar axle]

That's true, but KM stuff has that... more than others, it feels. Someone else mentioned it might be the realism, they have a lot less cartoony or anime proportions compared to many other brands.

[lime haven]

I think that's a fair take.

[humble stirrup]

Do they mostly do superhero stuff? Because spandex is very hard to make look good without a bunch of highlighting

[lunar axle]

They do. The Warner Bros license is theirs, so they've got DC, Batman, Harry Potter, and now GoT.

But while a lot of heroes wear spandex, there's plenty of villains, minions, henchmen, cops, and various other figures that don't.

[humble stirrup]

Hmm, well, without seeing more of the minis I wouldn’t know

Was mostly spitballing a reason

[lilac marsh]

Christmas kill team

[wide dawn]

You sure it's not Nightmare Before Christmas? (Looks beautiful tho seriously)

[compact pier]

I love the spider so much

[warm prawn]

My wife is building some terrain and I just know she's gunna make me paint this thing for her. (Riptide for scale)

[cobalt summit]

terrain painting is fun! You get to try funny stuff and it barely matters

[languid jay]

Yeah, terrain you can do just a lot of drybrushing and it'll be like 80% of the work.

Especially GW terrain, lots of raised surfaces that catch the paint easily.

[compact pier]

should paint my gallowdark terrain one day

it's so much though

[lilac marsh]

Metallic spray paint + oil wash + dry brush

[cobalt summit]

people are absolutely not gonna be eyein down 'manufactorum ruin #57' so you really just want tabletop quality most of the time so everybody else looks good against it

take a sharpie and scribble graffiti in if you wanna get really fancy

[languid jay]

If you have access to an inkjet printer you can do some funky graffiti that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvF0u3ULDvY BMC shows it off here but basically: print out the design and slather some mod podge on it, tear/rub away the paper and the design will be left over.

[floral pagoda]

Making a gift for my parents

[cobalt summit]

Do I blow the entire skull sprue on a monolith base

[full hinge]

No most of em won't even be visible

[cobalt summit]

Thats what I was thinking

Torn because I wanna whole ass the base for the big model

But its Not Visible

Save that for the Tesseract Vault 🫠

[humble stirrup]

No one will know if most of the pile is clay/green stuff with just a layer of skulls on the top

[languid jay]

Unless you got a 3D printer or some manner of getting a whole blanket of skulls down there (like molds of the TK casket of souls base) there's no point in laying out that many skulls.

It'd be cool but not at the expense of all those plastic skulls, hah.

[idle girder]

Get blue stuff

Make infinite skulls

[cobalt summit]

I have seen like. Texture rollers for skulls—I could try that and some polymer clay

[languid jay]

That'd work too.

[warm prawn]

Okay, gang. What's this kroot, like... missing? (Besides basing)

[lilac marsh]

Could probably use some highlights

[full hinge]

Not in a meme way but a little bit of nuln oil to bring out the recesses on the light colors and a little bit of drybrushed highlight on the dark colors will really make the details pop there I think

[warm prawn]

Nuln oil to the face, dark Grey drybrush to the skin?

[lilac marsh]

I think the leather would benefit the most from the highlights

[warm prawn]

[lunar axle]

To me, it's mostly missing visual separation. Highlighting the leather would go a long way in that indeed.

As well as the quills. They look more like a solid mass than a bunch of individual spikes.

[warm prawn]

Early Crime Bus Festivities from the wife led to her helping me set up organization and display for miniatures. Now I may display my unpainted shame of a growing Soulblight army.

[marble glacier]

Trying to combat my perfectionism by painting a little fast and loose on some rippers. I always see some imperfections when I take pictures 😭

[floral pagoda]

The struggle is real

They look lovely fwiw

[marble glacier]

Thanks 🙂

[cobalt summit]

CRISP

fr that's some clean clean white n red

fantastic speedpainting

[cobalt summit]

Very pleased with the horns so far

[glass gulch]

Hey what airbrush do you all recommend for beginners

[full hinge]

lol

[languid jay]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/405107372834 For beginners, I recommend something cheap because, and this is important: you're gonna fuck up at least once, and you do not want to do it with an expensive one.

These types of cheap airbrushes used to be in blue boxes, which we called the "blue box special." They're inexpensive and mostly disposable, but they're good to learn off of because of that. If you somehow break one to the point it can't be salvaged, then you're only out $15 and not say, $50-150.

Importantly, since this is a knock-off of the higher quality brands, they're going to feel very similar if and when you upgrade to something like Badger or Iwata. It's similar thought process as your first car being a junker: you learn from the beater so you can handle the higher-end stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/NEOECO-Self-Centring-Nozzle，0-2-Dual-Action-Replacement/dp/B0BW5MFYV5/ Once you decide to upgrade, I've heard nothing but great things about the NEOECO airbrush. It's got an affordable price and apparently performs almost as well as the high-end airbrushes, which is impressive.

I don't have one myself, as I use a Badger Patriot 105. That one is a workhorse and I compare it to the AK-47 of airbrushes--that fucker will work through whatever and at worst it needs a soak in some cleaning solution. Can't get the finest details but perfect for priming, base coats and varnishes.

[floral pagoda]

Gaahleri GHAD-39 my beloved. Cheap beginner airbrush, probably the best value out there

[lunar axle]

Freed another batch from their supports. Once they're dry, I can assemble the next starter box to sell.

[full hinge]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SQYLBR5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I got this for a beginner airbrush and I’m very happy with it

[lilac marsh]

I love mine but it does clog a lot with white paint

[glass gulch]

What’s a good pump/air supplier

[languid jay]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M33C8MV/ This is the go-to for most people. Cheap, effective, can last for years without issue.

Aim for a compressor with a tank, because that's a steady supply of cool air and doesn't run the entire time you're airbrushing.

Do not get an actual factual air compressor for shops because that is way too much power and unless you know what you're doing is likely to damage the airbrush. You rarely need a PSI above 20 for most airbrushing work, and not really above 40 PSI for cleaning it out.

[glass gulch]

Gotcha

[weak hornet]

Hey, so, I don't like the current look of my mini's and want to see how using non-speed paint goes. If I were to use iso to strip them then how long do I let them soak? And what do I use when I'm cleaning them out?

Also, my mini's are battletech. Is Isopropyl safe to use on them?

[cobalt summit]

Believe they’re pvc which should be fine. If you’re worried, I usually use simple green to strip paint, its a little gentler

[full hinge]

Isopropyl is very safe

And shouldn't need a ton of time soaking

(safe for minis - wear gloves when using it)

[lunar axle]

While isopropyl can damage plastics in the long run, and mess with their surface a little bit, PVC has a high chemical resistance, so the paint will give out before the plastic does.

The beauty of non-speedpaints is that you can also just paint right over previous layers! When using proper thin coats, it'll take quite a while before any detail gets obscured.

[twin willow]

Now begins my misadventures

How the fuck do I paint this

[twin willow]

Drybrushing seems promising

I must trust the process

[twin willow]

R e d

[twin willow]

Not sure how to feel about this

[weak hornet]

Hey, y'all, I have two more question about the Isopropyl. Usually, what percentage (70% 90% etc) is used for stripping paint? And how long should I let my mini's soak?

[languid jay]

90% or higher. Give it a day or so. You can safely let it soak for a long time with no damage, assuming it's not resin, which can sometimes have weird effects.

Soak, scrub, and if it's not coming off easily just let it soak again.

[midnight mesa]

This shot in particular looks good (you are playing on hard mode by having black as one of the main colors)

(I think a bit more doodads picked out with color would help the other angles)

[weak hornet]

Alrighty and then I have to reprime them again, yeah?

[full hinge]

Yes

[midnight mesa]

I think a problem with resin is it is a bit poros so the alcohol can get in the pores and make you sad later

[languid jay]

Yeah.

I just don't bother using iso on resin models to avoid any issues. LA's Totally Awesome is my default, stuff works great and is dirt cheap.

[weak hornet]

My BT mini's are plastic so it shouldn't get weird like Resin.

[languid jay]

Yeah, should be fine.

[weak hornet]

Along with that, when they're done soaking. I know I have to brush them and use water. But do I also use soap too or just leave it at running water?

[languid jay]

Running water will do the trick.

I usually just scrub'em under running water.

[weak hornet]

'kay

Thanks Slim!

[alpine grotto]

Anyone know of good quality beginner airbrushes?

Looking to grab one for painting my chaos knights and other armies

[compact pier]

i have an h&s ultra 2024 that im quite happy with

not the cheapest but Ive found its features really helpful compared to just using a cheap one

(and honestly not sure how easy it even is to actually irreparably damage an airbrush?? id much rather know what I have is physically reliable and learn how to maintain it properly than deal with a low quality tool while also learning paint mixing, brush control and compressor pressure)

[alpine grotto]

Found this one
https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/vigiart-hs-30k-dual-action-gravity-feed-airbrush-kit/?_gl=1*nzunc4*_up*MQ.._gsMQ..&gclid=CjwKCAiAg8S7BhATEiwAO2-R6hR3vAL6QHolygVAsQPCCB2KNSERgVXmO_DVvOEqi3HeMDQqERWN8xoCACYQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADuwvGPxeHeoKGJuBgkgI9M7awdU7

[languid jay]

We actually talked about this yesterday!

[lilac marsh]

Gallehri ghad-39 was like $50 when I got mine and it's a workhorse

[floral pagoda]

Seconding the GHAD-39 recommendation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYrfq0vaLmw

This is from a traditional artist rather than a miniature painter but the same principles apply

[alpine grotto]

We’re finding it on a Canadian site for about $62

[lilac marsh]

Sounds about right with the conversion rate

[weak hornet]

Bought the Iso

Nearly brought it to the bottom for the stripping process.

[alpine grotto]

Additional question that’s most related to this channel

Anyone got good glue recommendations?

Heard good things about Tamiya thin and revell contacta pro

[weak hornet]

Like is this glue for mini's or for placing environmental stuff?

Because if environmental, gorilla glue is pretty okay.

[languid jay]

For superglue, my go-to is Gorilla Super Glue. It's very strong and doesn't take long to dry. For plastic glue, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is the go-to for a lot of people, myself included.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKm9rwHFwLs However, here's a cheap(ish) hack to get waaaaay more than just the tiny bottle.

Basically Tamiya's airbrush cleaner is the exact same stuff, but 6x more in the bottle for not much more price-wise.

If you're chemistry-minded, you can of course make it at home with fairly common chemicals.

http://puu.sh/Klp6E/f69afa9a1e.jpg

Acetone you can get practically anywhere. Butyl acetate you usually have to order.

[alpine grotto]

Mostly for minis atm

[ornate tendon]

Huge freak for Loctite gel CA glue

It Just Works, easy to handle and keeps well in the bottle

[weak hornet]

Hey, y'all, I'm still getting some stuff prepped but I have a quick painting question.

If I'm working with a contrast paint, do I use it first or apply it after I put on my basecoat paint?

[compact pier]

always basecoat

contrast wants a light neutral one generally

[weak hornet]

All righty

[cobalt summit]

Contrasts are like a thicker wash, you use it to glaze a light color and automatically get a color progression w/ highlights/shaded parts

[weak hornet]

Oh okay.

If I were to apply a dedicated wash on a mini that also has contrast applied.

Does that make colors run?

[compact pier]

not if the contrast paint has dried

[weak hornet]

Alrighty let them dry

And that also applies to both base paints and layer paints, right?

[compact pier]

yep

[weak hornet]

Also, you wanna see the forbidden paint stripping juice jar?

[midnight mesa]

What horrible color has it turned?

[weak hornet]

Bog whiskey is your answer

[midnight mesa]

Also, I found out that Vallejo was recently bought by a Private Equity firm D=. At least the workers did well in their strike

[weak hornet]

_>

[midnight mesa]

Wow, that is quite gross lmao

[weak hornet]

Welp, Imma gonna have to go buy some more paint before Private equity does what private equity does.

Also, yeah, it is pretty gross.

But it's for a good cost.

[weak hornet]

The Bog Whiskey worked.

Bow down to the Goddess of Bog spirits

[cinder shore]

I'm glad i added the green contrast

[olive raven]

Just some cool looking dudes I painted

[languid jay]

http://puu.sh/KlsJv/296ca95541.jpg

https://tenor.com/view/quake-grunt-dancing-gaming-gif-16776488

[weak hornet]

Guys, if I want to preserve my sanity when panting my mini's.

Should I basecoat them in the color that's going to be used first or do I do a separate coat in a different color for certain parts?

[viral arch]

Gotta finish the bases but otherwise done

[olive raven]

He’s had a rough shift

[lunar axle]

That's really all up to you. Painting a mini is a little like solving a puzzle. Perhaps you want to do only a few specific areas, to leave the right undercoat visible. Sometimes it works best to paint the whole thing in one base colour and go from there.

Every paint is at least a slight bit transparent. Different colours under each other will affect the colours that go over them ever so slightly. Sometimes a lot.

Had to find a random mini in my gallery to show this off, but on this Doctor Fate, I started by blocking out the blue, since that'll be harder to reach later, and then did the gold. I was careful not to spill any blue, because my gold base tone and especially the yellow for the cape do not cover well. Painting them over blue would not be a fun time.

This one's not even close to finished btw, but it shows the process.

[weak hornet]

So, in a fit of madness (and a quest to find olive drab) I bought some more stuff for paintings minis.

And I picked up two bottles of thinner medium.

Does that thin out a paint or do something else?

[floral pagoda]

It thins yer paints

[weak hornet]

And does it also work with primer or do they not play nice?

[floral pagoda]

Should work with primer

[weak hornet]

All righty

I might test everything out tonight.

Oh, uh, does it work on a wet palette or does a thinner medium need to be on a dry palette?

[floral pagoda]

Wet palette should be fine

[weak hornet]

All righty

Thank you!

[glass gulch]

Okay for airbrush

Is there a way to thin acrylic into airbrush pigments

[idle girder]

Water and flow improver

[weak hornet]

Hey, y'all, I need to make an improvised wash.

I gotta whip up a grey wash and the only grey color I have is this one.

If I were to thin this down with two drops of thinner would it work or nah?

[languid jay]

For a metallic? No.

[weak hornet]

Would it work with the colors on this

Oh wait, no.

I'm probably gonna have to go back to my LFG later then.

[lilac marsh]

New chaos lord just dropped

[warm prawn]

Kroot Kroot Kroot

[languid jay]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhvH5j5bl2k

[wide dawn]

Oooo, lookin goth! I really like that

These kroot look like they know how to rave

[full hinge]

He looks very polite on all of those boxes

[lilac marsh]

Trophy pile

[glass gulch]

Okay chat place ur bets

Which will end up looking better:

• White Primer+Gold Airbrush
• Gold Primer

[lilac marsh]

Probably the white primer first

Especially if it's out of a can

[glass gulch]

This is my new Aspiring Sorcerer, Djasenwet. He is very prideful of his “Warp-Lance” (a shitty repurposing of Warpsmite) to notice the fact that he wields an Eldritch Eldar glaive. His reasoning: “I didn’t make it, so why should I care?”

[idle girder]

depends on the white and what the main color is

[lime haven]

Both white and gold are aggressively mid primer colors iirc

Quite challenging.

[glass gulch]

Gold I can get: it’s got a tone that can shine through

White is just blank lighting tho

[ornate tendon]

My issue with white primer has always been that any tiny lil missed spots show like crazy in photos

Especially under a flash

[weak hornet]

Still trying to work out on thinning out paints.

Think I might be getting there?

[lime haven]

Much better. Could thin out further and apply another layer to improve the coverage.

A wash and a dry brush will also do wonders to sharpen the paint job and cover some of the thinner spots.

[weak hornet]

Yeah, I'm probably gonna be going with two drops of thinner medium plus the wet palette.

Because I did this too an Awesome's arms right

[lime haven]

That is pretty good, just needs one or two more thin coats.

[weak hornet]

Alrighty

I'll probably add it tomorrow

[weak hornet]

Okay, so, this is what I have now.

[warm prawn]

Okay, weird question: I have some fell bats, how does one get that reddish sheen on the wing that lends an illusion of translucency?

[humble stirrup]

Could try a gloss on that section

Or a wash

A wash would probably be better, like a pink or whatever blood color you’re doing on another base color

Dunno how well it’d work in practice but it’s what came to mind

[warm prawn]

How do that? Just, live, really thin/watered down red?

[humble stirrup]

Wait do you know what a wash is?

Like, if you don’t that’s fine I’m just trying to figure out what you’re asking

[warm prawn]

Probably not!

My painting knowledge is very much "make it up as I go along*

[humble stirrup]

What paints do you use?

[warm prawn]

Citadel

[humble stirrup]

Yeah, so, washes are very thin paints/inks that flow over details and get into crevice and such, and also can sorta “tint” the underlying paints

Like you could put a red wash over grey to give it a sorta livid look

[warm prawn]

Kinda like the shade paints?

[humble stirrup]

Sorta, yeah

Have you seriously been using citadel paints and never been suggested to get nuln oil or agrax earthshade?

Anyhow, I’d say to look at some videos online to get an idea of em

[warm prawn]

I have used both of those paints!

[humble stirrup]

Yeah those are washes

[warm prawn]

Ah.

In my defense, they say "shade" on the pot and I am very stupid

[humble stirrup]

Huh, they must have changed that since last I looked

I was annoyed to see they moved some paints from “base” to “layer” at some point when I last refilled my supply

Had trouble finding them due to that

[glass gulch]

Brothers Djasenwet (left) and Sumsti (Right)

[humble stirrup]

Just two dudes, chilling and doing dark sorcery

[lunar axle]

That sheen looks like it was done by glazing. So essentially taking very thin layers of paint (practically shades/washes, except they'll probably work better if you just thin regular paint), slowly built up over a surface, covering less and less with every layer.

Thinning paints with water has the advantage of messing with the distribution of pigment in a slightly different way to what a thinner or paint medium would do. In the case of a glaze, that can be beneficial.

Individual glaze layers will barely show any difference, but with persistence and a bit of patience, they'll make for incredibly smooth transitions. And as an added benefit, very thin layers will dry rather quickly, so by the time your first layer is done, you're probably good for the second layer.

[glass gulch]

Dad’s airbrush lmao

Wait a minute

[glass gulch]

Nevermind

The valves don’t match

[misty horizon]

I’ve got such a pile of shann my e going ugh, a bun sh vid stuff half finished from early last year too

[languid jay]

https://fixvx.com/HashionDiscord/status/1606258417751846912

[cobalt spire]

I remember when GW sold empty pots to mix in

[floral pagoda]

Pain

[warm prawn]

Did some light work on terrain today

[viral arch]

Finally getting around to painting my cursed city set

[wide dawn]

niiice

the vampires almost have a black-and-white film quality to them

[viral arch]

I was inspired by some specific art of Manfred from the total war games that casts him in full moonlight, so his pale skin has a blue tone to it rather than the red or grey tones you'll usually see

So a blue grey base and then just playing a lot with grey tones

[humble stirrup]

I love how the kinda B&W look makes stuff like the blood or sword really pop, that’s honestly super cool

[warm prawn]

Update... I did not do well with this bat's wings.

(To be fair, this was mostly rescue attempt on a wing that was pure the darkest brown shade there)

(Bats 2 and 3 will be handled with a different technique)

[wide dawn]

From a distance it actually looks good enough that I briefly thought they were actually semi-transparent

but the background is a factor there

[warm prawn]

Here it is with a different background

[humble stirrup]

Seems pretty good tbh

[lunar axle]

If you have a drybrush of sorts, a flat brush with stiff bristles, you could take some of each of your colours and stipple them on to blend them down into the next one.

I think that would work quite well on these wings.

[lunar axle]

If you look for this kind of brush, dip it into a bit of paint, stamp it down on some paper towel to get rid of a fair bit of it, then you can tampone the surface at the edges of colours to create a smoother blend.

[warm prawn]

[idle girder]

Also makeup brushes!

[cobalt summit]

Attempting a scorch effect, think I did pretty good

[languid jay]

https://bsky.app/profile/thewyzard.bsky.social/post/3lfgpl353qs2d

The Wyzard (@thewyzard.bsky.social)

An excerpt from my advice on what you actually need to start painting miniatures:

Bluesky · Jan 11, 2025, 2:58 AM

[slender crest]

real

make sure the macro setting is on

[warm prawn]

I thought that was common sense

[austere swift]

If the mistakes are "unnoticable" then why am I noticing them on my 48MP photo?

[full hinge]

R E A L
E
A
L

[lunar axle]

Basing an Infinity squad for use as a Necromunda gang. Bunch of high-tech Venator bounty hunters to track down the other players and scare the crap out of them, hopefully. As a bonus, I've painted up a little objective marker of sorts.

[humble stirrup]

Aw he’s just a lil guy

[cobalt summit]

Got some gnawholes battle ready lets go

Still got like 30 models to go in time for saturday, such is life of horde army play

I’m a lil bummed I can’t hit the braziers but I ain’t got time to do em justice before saturday

I will be back after with very pretty gnawholes I promise

[humble stirrup]

They’re saying they’re gonna be the best gnawholes, the pritiest gnawholes

(I’m so sorry, that was such a bad joke)

But seriously those already look really nice

[weak hornet]

I bought more paint yesterday.

Managed to find olive drab.

[olive raven]

Those guys look so cool

[lunar axle]

Thanks! Infinity has some pretty sweet sculpts.

The armour colour was a bit of an odd experiment, but I'm glad it worked out. It's an undercoat of dark brown, with magenta airbrushed over it.

[floral pagoda]

I'm 90% done painting the world's tiniest smol for Kill Team. Thumb for scale.

[misty horizon]

my brother once painted a dachsund miniature from steamforged's animal adventures pack and man did he do a good job on something so small, even managed to include the little white stripe our parents dachsund has

[weak hornet]

Quick question. I might go paint hunting again and what were Citadel base paints that got renamed as layer paints?

[humble stirrup]

The one that I ran into that threw me was Cadian Fleshtone

However I don’t know any others that did that off the top of my head

[weak hornet]

I know that looking around it turns out Elysian Green used to be a basepaint and had a different name.

[austere swift]

Rush job Agamemnon for a tournament this Saturday.

[full hinge]

Battlemutt battlemutt battlemutt battlemutt

[cobalt summit]

Baby’s first magnetization going well, I’ll have to milliput over the magnet I replaced the stock with

But like it’s not actually hard

[languid jay]

If you got any plastic tubing you could just fit it over the magnet, provided it's the right width.

[cobalt summit]

Not a bad idea, magnets are pretty standard size

[cobalt summit]

I HAVE PAINTED 80 CLANRATS IN THE LAST FOUR DAYS BUT WE’RE BATTLEREADY FOR TOMORROW’S TOURNEY

[keels over and dies]

[austere swift]

Nice!

[warm prawn]

Yes-yes. Very good-ready for the battle-games tomorrow. Much luck-skill.

[compact pier]

Ghulam guy with some nmm

Shiny barrel isnt very realistic but its fun hehe

[warm prawn]

Okay, fine. I'll work on my Sailor T'auts again. Ju'piter feels about done.

[weak hornet]

That looks cool.

Man I wish there were Guela models too.

I know there's kitbashing but it would be cool to see a humanized version of Tau armor.

[floral pagoda]

So I was talking about painting last night, and figured out what I enjoy most about the process. Now that I've had a decent amount of experience, I've figured out that I enjoy weathering the most. Making things feel lived-in with stuff like scratches, damage, mud, rust, stuff like that, but also moss and weeds and overgrowth. I think it makes miniatures look really good. I'm gonna try to optimize our painting to focus on weathering.

Things like vehicles and big metallic surfaces give me the biggest opportunities for weathering, with infantry falling behind in that regard.

Cue my horror when I realize that the kinds of infantry models for 40k/etc that have the best weathering opportunities are space marines. They're decked out head to toe in big metal suits! They also happen to be incredibly unappealing and I hate their design.

[full hinge]

Could also do Knights

[languid jay]

Orks have a fair amount of weathering opportunities to'em.

[magic night]

would Death Guard appeal, or are they too close to space marines? They're the kings of weathering

otherwise I'd suggest ad mech. All that lovely metal and detailed bits and bobs make for good rust, dirt, and verdigris

[warm prawn]

Tuxedo Kamen can be a little Drone as a treat

[marble glacier]

I like their little orb

[warm prawn]

tack

[marble glacier]

Poking away at a Vindicaire

[austere swift]

Rush job to get Agamemnon painted for a tournament last weekend.

[marble glacier]

Alright, I'm done

[weak hornet]

So, this is a question to anyone who's used Pro Acryl paint.

How is it?

[lilac marsh]

Good

[marble glacier]

I've used their Bold Titanium White and Coal Black and I'm a fan.

I put them on my wet palette and they don't need much thinning for brush work. Most are matte, which gives you more control. The bottles all have agitator balls in already, which is a nice convenience. Their Bold Titanium White is the only white paint I don't hate.

My only complaint is the default caps can be a little messy. But they do sell other styles of cap I guess.

[weak hornet]

Ohhhh.

And how much thinning do you need to do with them?

[marble glacier]

It's hard to quantify but I just poke the tip of my brush in my water pot and that loads enough to get it to the right consistency for me. The wet palette is also supplying some moisture too

[floral pagoda]

Yeah between a damp brush and a wet pallette I don't need to thin my bold titanium white at all

[twin oyster]

a bit of de-rusting

[warm prawn]

Here's Sailor T'aut Pluto as I continue to contemplate what to do about their bases

[lunar axle]

starry, cosmic bases could work well with a magical girl theme.

The tactical rocks are just asteroids.

[wide tartan]

Man I wish I had that sculpt...

He has been jarred

[wide tartan]

Just as I started painting my army I decided on a completely new paint scheme :b

[ornate tendon]

many such cases

[weak hornet]

The forbidden mint julep.

[lilac marsh]

Unclogged the dropper bottle

[weak hornet]

Unseal the hushed casket

[lunar axle]

Me when, when- when they euh- when my partner... yeah.

[granite fox]

so true

send this to youre best freind 👍

[weak hornet]

So, question to anybody whose used spray primer before.

I know I need to do it outside

But do I need a dust mask or a respirator also?

[gleaming shore]

probably for the best

the tiny HSE representative in my brain encourages you to use respiratory PPE when working with aerosol paints in any capacity

not all masks are appropriate for use with aerosols, do your research into the relevant occupational safety authorities wherever you live and make an informed purchase

[lilac marsh]

I think technically you'd even want more than a p100 for spray cans because of the propellant, but also if you're spraying outside like once or twice a month over the entire course of your life you'd still probably have no meaningful health effects

I use a p100 respirator for airbrushing because I'm sitting right next to it for hours and have poor ventilation but with a better booth I'd probably forget to put it on more often than not

[weak hornet]

Yeah, I picked up a 3M respirator with the white filters.

Unfortunately it's a medium and not a large, but I'll see if can fit.

[ornate tendon]

rattlecan priming toy soldiers outdoors is not a situation in which I mask up but also I will never tell anybody to not wear PPE

Nobody gives a shit about your health like you do

[weak hornet]

It's because the rattle can I have (citadel) has acetone, propane, butane, and a couple other accelerants in there.

[slender crest]

nobody's ever regretted taking too many precautions for their health

[weak hornet]

True

Also, anybody know a way to do an improv'ed primer stick?

I know I need some blu tack.

[languid jay]

Paint stirrer stick and blu-tack.

[weak hornet]

Hit up my local hardware on the way home tomorrow.

Also, next month. Probably gonna do a hobby blitz. Hit up three stores.

[languid jay]

Although I use lengths of wood I got from Dollar Tree, so if you have that already all the better.

[lilac marsh]

Those are the accelrrants in basically every spray can.

[weak hornet]

Oh okay

[warm prawn]

[Shameful Confession] Honestly, I just hold my breath when spray-priming. I know I should be ebtter, but am not.

[cobalt summit]

my dumb ass spraying in the garage because its Montana Winter

I did buy a mask after the second time

[cobalt spire]

1. I always do it outside without PPE
2. I use double sided tape for my improvised priming "stick"

[marble glacier]

I'm a little more careful in my old age. I have a half-face P95 respirator. I mostly use it for spray painting or air-brushing, but I'll even throw it on when I'm using plastic cement to avoid the smell and vapours.

[wide dawn]

Honestly that sounds like a good idea

[quick bridge]

Mini I painted over the weekend. An Iguana TAG from Infinity

[marble glacier]

CLEAN

Trying out NMM for the armour, I don't think it's quite there and I'd love some pointers if anyone has suggestions

[cobalt summit]

So I am not an NMM understander but I wonder abt mixing some of the red with a desaturated pink or grey before the white

Like just as an edge highlight

That being said I kneel this rat looks incredible

[compact pier]

Yeah this fucks

Umm

I think maybe if anything just increasing the contrast on the highlights by toning down the armour a bit with a wash? Also not super experienced with nmm haha

But metal is all about contrast I think

That and reflections I guess

[compact pier]

Painting infinity is rly fun

Also taking it a model at a time is a nice change of pace from batch painting

But I think something infinity does pretty well is giving different units different features that are fun to paint, at least more recently

[marble glacier]

Appreciate the NMM advice! Definitely need to have a think on it. Highlighted the wraps, wood, metal, fur, etc. in the meanwhile

[marble glacier]

I grabbed some Aleph minis that I really aught to get to some day. I love the various aesthetics of the factions

Which model is that?

[compact pier]

zhayedan from haqqislam :)

[weak hornet]

So, I'm done the stripping paint dance again.

If I have like little bits of left over primer even after the jar and scrubbing.

Will putting spray on primer end up clogging or hiding details due to the left over primer still there?

[lilac marsh]

It certainly could

Do you have an airbrush?

[weak hornet]

No

Just rattlecan

If I need to I'll buy some more iso and put 'em back to get out the more stubborn primer left over.

Probably just the 70% for that.

91% is for the paint.

Or maybe 50% since it's just some stubborn primer.

[ornate tendon]

Primer often has better adhesion than paint, especially rattlecan primers

Can’t recommend Simple Green highly enough for stripping even the most stubborn primer or paint

[weak hornet]

True

I'll see how it goes with against the brush on primer.

Also, I was able to make a spray stick.

But the hardware store didn't have blu tack.

So, instead I'm using some elmer's tack.

[languid jay]

It can, but if it's deep in the recesses or very minor leftovers it should be fine.

[weak hornet]

Yeah, I've had to scrub a couple times.

Letting them soak in soapy water for a fourth time.

[lilac marsh]

Angry bowling pin

And funny guy

Idk how I did the rocks it just sorta happened but it goes so hard

[marble glacier]

They do look rather good!

[cobalt summit]

Mixing that brown into the cracks gives real good depth nice work

Really easy to make rubble look too clean ime

[lilac marsh]

Step 1 of good rocks is to just slop on 25 different washes

[compact pier]

Murabid Tuareg Sniper from infinity

Headscarf didnt come out exactly how I wanted but it still looks pretty cool. Need to get matte varnish I think

[cobalt summit]

Deathleaper base just about done

[weak hornet]

Scrubbing my mechs still

[marble glacier]

Alright, little buddy is done!

[compact pier]

awesome!

[granite fox]

wip gift for my gf

[wide dawn]

That's romance

[lunar axle]

Doctor Fate was surprisingly fun to paint.

[weak hornet]

The armory. Reassembled.

[lime haven]

Screwed the pooch on priming this guy. Worth soaking in simple green to restart?

[austere swift]

I'd say so. Anything going on top is going to be off.
Though I'd recommend 90+% isopropanol. Stuff clears all the paint off and evaporates without leaving any residue.

[marble glacier]

Working on some hazard stripes

[cobalt summit]

Is that shark freehanded?

[marble glacier]

Nah, it's a transfer off etsy

[weak hornet]

About to pull some mini's from an iso bath.

How long do I wait to let them air dry before I wash and scrub them?

[ornate tendon]

No lag time necessary imo

[languid jay]

Yeah, you can just pull'em from the bath and start scrubbin'. I usually do this under running water.

[weak hornet]

I'm letting them soak a little bit.

But apparently under the base of one, there's like three tiny squares.

And unfortunately some minor bits got damaged and fell off from the iso bath.

[languid jay]

Iso/degreaser baths can weaken super glue bonds.

[weak hornet]

Yeah.

I'm gonna have to be really careful when I'm scrubbing then.

[languid jay]

Not a guarantee but it's common enough, so it's a simple job of gluing it back on.

[weak hornet]

Because this is the second time I had to do an iso bath.

[languid jay]

And if you're worried about stuff ending up in the drain, use a mesh collander like what people use to drain cans n' such.

[weak hornet]

Good to know.

[languid jay]

I've used it before when cleaning really tiny stuff. Most of the time, if it falls, it ends up in the garbage disposal and it's easy enough to get out.

[weak hornet]

So assembling my filters for the respirator.

Did I do it correctly?

[weak hornet]

Okay, so, had trouble putting in one the filters/carts on the respirator.

This, uh, won't compromise the respirator, yeah?

[idle girder]

Okay ivr been working with half mask and full face resperators my entire life

How did you do that

Thats impressive

[ornate tendon]

I’m a little curious myself, never seen that

Damage to those locking lugs could prevent an airtight seal between the filter cart and that red gasket there

[weak hornet]

I was an idiot and tried jamming it like the first one.

...

So, I did screw up the seal.

[idle girder]

With like . . . A hammer?

[weak hornet]

Ugggggggh.

No, my hands

[idle girder]

You should be fine

[ornate tendon]

It’s impossible to say, just looking at a picture

[weak hornet]

I just kept forcing it in there and it kept scratching.

[ornate tendon]

Put both carts on and mask up

[weak hornet]

I did

The thing is too small for me.

[ornate tendon]

Take the palms of your hands and firmly cover the intakes on both carts

[weak hornet]

It's a medium and I guess I need a large.

[ornate tendon]

Try to breathe in; if you can’t, that’s a good seal

[weak hornet]

Because even with the straps tight, air is still going between my hands.

[ornate tendon]

If you can still breathe even when the intakes are covered, the seal is compromised or you’re not really covering the intakes

[weak hornet]

I did do that.

Did both the positive and negative pressure check.

Air still going out.

[idle girder]

If it barks and eats fish thats also a good seal

[weak hornet]

LOL

But yeah, if air is still going out even with as tight as I can make the straps.