Ulukaii's Metric Winwing MIP Build

[round sundial]

Started my OH project about a year ago now. Time for a build log... and a quick intro:

Key considerations I took for my build:

• This is an all-metric system build
• This build integrates the Winwing MIP
• I follow an iterative approach - I want to play and enjoy whatever is available while continuing the build
  Hence, I intend to post some tips and recommendations for metric builders here, and how to integrate the Winwing MIP into the OH frame.

...and some words about me : I live in Germany together with my family. I served for fifteen years as a military aviator and now I am a civilian. With regards to OH, I am completely new to that type of "making", although I enjoy doing renovations around the house and can spot the difference between electric screwdrivers and electric drills.

Here is a preview picture - currently I am working on LIP and UIP:

For the UIP, I designed a custom face plate and an UFC holder for the Winwing MIP:

The Winwing MIP fits to the OpenHornet UIP frame with only 2-3mm (thats .1in) tolerance - so I am quite happy that this idea turned out to be feasible (I didn't really know until I spent hundreds of EUR to get the MIP in my hands and a lot of hours building the UIP frame).

Although not vanilla OH, the approach has many benefits for me:

1. I can de-risk my project - if I am too stupid to do all this ABSIS ALE stuff, at least I have a cool cockpit-shaped MIP holder.
2. Reduction in build time
3. more knobs - the Winwing MIP has buttons in between the MFD buttons which I can use for some sim-related or game-related keys.
   .

Getting to the right fit took quite some iterations though. Here is an early version, where I just drilled some holes in the otherwise standard OH face plate and took the initial measurements:

It was clear quite early that the Winwing MIP will fit in the horizontal dimension, but the MFD's will extend vertically beyond OH dimensions. To accomodate the eyebrow panels, I decided that the screens need to move down (instead of increasing the UIP height and having to re-do the whole frame):

I had to make some cuts in the UIP frame longerons because the Winwing MIP screens have some weird bumps that needed to be accommodated:

By moving the screens down, they extend about 1.5cm (that is around .6 inches) further to the bottom. My first seating tests seem to indicate that adjustments to IFEI and standby panel are not mandatory.

[fervent crescent]

Beautifully done! How did you do the text on the lower brackets of the UIP (Jackscrew, tighten first et al.)?

[round sundial]

Fortunately, the text is already "grooved" into the 3D model. So I just 3D-printed the body as-is with a .4mm nozzle and "fine" settings on my BambuLab. Using black PETG. Then sprayed a thick coat of white universal paint on the text area (having protected the rest with tape). Then sanded it using 600 sand paper on a sanding block (to ensure I sand with a very flat surface). Turned out quite OK. I was too much in a hurry to see later that left and right lower brackets are different, so I printed tow times the same one

Improvement options would be:

• go into F360 to increase the depth of the letters a little bit further
• use a .2mm nozzle

That being said, I had to customize the brackets in F360 such that they fit together with the Winwing stuff:

[subtle wolf]

Fantastic job! I'm starting the very same UIP build just now.

[round sundial]

I am also working on a cover for the back of the UFC. Not perfect yet, but getting there

As for my first panels, I decided to go with the Master arm, spin revocery and ECM panels:

The panels above have been made with just a CNC, no laser (as I didn't get to learn lasering yet)

But apparently each tool has it's own limitations. Trying to engrave the lighted pushbuttons on clear acrylic did not work out well - so I am going forward with lasering soon:

[twilit shadow]

nice work so far. the WW stuff, did you consider removing the LCD from the WW case to get a thinner mount. I tinkered with it a little and it's very doable

the engraving the thin stuff, you machine has to be dial in and trammed perfectly as well as watching the speed

[cerulean helm]

I really What to integrate my ww mip also, would you maybe share your files?

[round sundial]

Oh that's a good idea. Never thought about it. But it's integrated now so I guess I worked around it 😉

[round sundial]

Hmm I guess I was just lucky then, as I simply repurposed my old Snapmaker a250. I was never satisfied with its 3D printing performance, however it has a sturdy all-metal build and I guess this helps to guide the CNC module precisely

[round sundial]

Absolutely, coming up asap 🙂

[cerulean helm]

Cool that would be really Nice

[craggy drift]

If you wanted to package them up with modification instructions, we have a user mods folder in the release folder on the repo for this sort of thing. 😁

[round sundial]

Thats a good reminder - I'll look into it and then how to proceed? I could prepare a pull request with some commits into that folder (once I get to it)

[craggy drift]

Yeah, I'd recommend just making a new folder in there with the required manufacturing files, and a README.md file explaining what it is and how to do it. It's a very requested mod, so would love to include it with the baseline package.

[jovial fractal]

Great! Thanks a lot for doing that! I'm planning to get something similar.

It would be so great to have that directly in the repo!

[round sundial]

@cerulean helm , @jovial fractal you can now find the files on my fork of the OpenHornet project on Github: https://github.com/eHanseJoerg/OpenHornet/tree/master/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1A1%20Winwing%20MIP%20Integration%20Mod

They will eventually be merged into the main repo step by step.
.
.
(edit: updated link to point to the develop branch).
.
.

Only small progress in the past few days. However, my soldering skills seem to get to an acceptable level now

[jovial fractal]

Thanks!

[twilit shadow]

if you'd like a quick critque , the 2nd pin from the right back row of the 8 pin connector is pretty close to what you want them all the look like

[cerulean helm]

Cool thanks i will take a look 🙂

[glacial idol]

Hello @round sundial and congratulations on the Mod!
I'm starting my pit too and using MIPs so I have the same problem.. Thanks for sharing the project, could you also share the changes in terms of front panel measurements?

[round sundial]

Hi Albe happy to but not sure what you mean. My mod is a drop-in replacement, so the measurements are exactly the same as before

[glacial idol]

my question about the front panel size is comparing this two picture, if is it possible i would print your front panel in a paper for cut the MDF with the correct proportion of the MIP..

[round sundial]

You can do that but I would recommend to have acrylic cut via your local CNC shop or via pcbway.com etc.

[glacial idol]

yes, it would definitely be a cleaner job! If you can send me the 2D measurements of your frame i would try to give it before with the 6mm mdf just for try the assembly with the other panel ecc..

[jovial fractal]

The file is in the link he provided a few days ago. On GitHub. Just open it with Fusion.

[craggy drift]

Asking people to make you templates is sorta beyond the scope of what people are generally willing to do on this project. It's not a precedent I want to encourage. And it would be better suited for #requests-archive channel instead of cluttering his build thread.

[glacial idol]

Thanks👍

[glacial idol]

I absolutely did not ask to create models, if anything I asked to be able to know or rather visualize the dimensions of a panel that can be downloaded... simply because I don't know how to do it. In any case, the post before yours has already given me the solution to the problem. thanks anyway

[jovial fractal]

You're welcome. I strongly suggest you to start with reading #start-here . What you'll find in these build threads are mods that will assume you're already somehow familiar with the original files, and how to read them.
There are other channels for specific questions about Fusion360.

[glacial idol]

Thanks for the help, i come from the aeronautical sector from line maintenance and line fly, but designing them producing from zero is another thing.. I'm starting to approach fusion, thanks again for the advice

[cerulean helm]

Where did it go?

[round sundial]

Will be back on tonight!

[round sundial]

It is available now on the develop branch in my repo: https://github.com/eHanseJoerg/OpenHornet/tree/develop/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii

[cerulean helm]

Thanks a lot

[glacial idol]

Thanks👍🏻

[round sundial]

Did some further work on the Winwing integration today.

• Added the bit box on the upper side of the UFC. It has an opening on the bottom so it is still possible to access the winwing-extra-buttons on the top side of the UFC.
• Modified the lower central brackets of the UIP such that they actively hold & secure the whole UFC/HUD assembly,

(The changes I made today are breaking changes - had to do it to get the positioning more precise)

Now I am quite satisfied with the mod! 3D printer is now printing the parts and JLC is doing (yet another) face plate. I hope I don't have too many revision once I assembled it in real life for the first time!

[cerulean helm]

Great work 💪🏻💪🏻

[glacial idol]

Super 👍🏻

[jovial fractal]

Wow. Nice.

[lavish yarrow]

Thank you for your mod!

[subtle wolf]

Million thanks Ulukaii! At last I got my build in gear after a long pause.

[round sundial]

Happy to contribute:-) Before thanking me too much please be aware that the physical fitting test of the V2 will take me a few more days, with printing everything and real life inbetween. I have added 0.1mm spacing between the parts, and will only see if this works out after it is all printed

But the best partof the Winwing-oriented build is that we can already enjoy quite early and add one panel after the other later:

Small one flying like "who needs a hand on the thrust lever anyway?" In the end, its just only of these many buttons that you press once at the beginning of the flight - into the AB detent - and then keep it there 😉

[subtle wolf]

I discovered that the DDI screens would benefit from 90deg usb cables. With some modification on the lower support ”lips”, I got them to fit with straight cables.

[round sundial]

If you mean the DDI lower support bracket A/B - yes I discovered the same and am currently working on a version with a flatter angle such that the USB calbe can bend gracefully:

[subtle wolf]

I just shortened the "lip" with a saw to make room. It's hidden behind the frame so it won't show.

[round sundial]

Did some first fit tests today. Improved the BIT box on top of the UFC by increasing some tolerances, as it was a too tight fit. Tomorrow is assembly day

[jovial fractal]

The MDF cut didn't change? Just the printed things?

[round sundial]

The MDF cut (of the longerons) did not change at any time. But the face plate (acrylic) had a change from V1 to V2. But also not within V2 since I uploaded it.

Concerning the face plate, I am currently contemplating if I can find a spot somewhere for two more holes for additional screws to attach it against the UIP. That is my only open item for the face plate

[jovial fractal]

Ok! Thanks

[round sundial]

Winwing UIP update

I re-assembled the Winwing UIP today, this time and for the first time using my V2 parts. I expected some surprises, but it went surprisingly well. In a nutshell: V2 tries to "press" UIP and HUD panel further inward to get more realistic distances on the UIP. Especially the HUD panel is difficult, as it is quite thick and needs to be positioned further inward than the face plate itself. But it works!

V2 Status
All central mounts are now feature complete. Assembly works and measurements as well.

** Improvements after physical fitting test**
I discovered that the cable between UIP and HUD panel needed more space. So I changed the central mount. I also discovered that the BIT box sits on the UFC a bit wobbly. So I added some screw holes. Lastly, I changed the UFC cover to improve mainainability - it is now possible to slide it out without disassembling the UFC from the face plate.

Next steps
Work on AMPCD panel (LIP) now. Also test the next version of the BIT box, which is still printing.

[jovial fractal]

Oh wow..you still have the plastic on your MIP xD

[round sundial]

As long as I am tinkering with it, I figured it might be better to still have it on:-)

[jovial fractal]

That's fair. I'm surprised you never tried it first. There is some surprise sometimes with the Winwing hardware. Trying it as soon as you get it is... Safer.

Or you did but kept the plastic on?

[round sundial]

Ah nono, I already did simfly with it, I just kept it on as I know a disassembly was coming 🙂

[jovial fractal]

Fair enough !

[round sundial]

But it is all set up and working in DCS. Wasn't really too difficult. There is a minor annoyance that sometimes Windows forgets screens and their orientation and then I need to go through SimAppPro again. Other than that - it is really a nice set.

[twilit shadow]

There's a duplicate version of SimAppPro installed, in setup there is now an option to remove it.
or go to apps and look for it

[jovial fractal]

Oh yeah it does that for me as well. It doesn't like when I turn the screens.

But that isn't a problem I should have with the future setup

[round sundial]

Hmm not sure about that but I will check it out

[twilit shadow]

I was having same issue and there where various posts on it on you tube then Winwing put it into thier setup

[round sundial]

Celebrating a little breakthrough today: the first panel is "operational" !

It took me almost a year of reading, woodworking, screwdriving, soldering, 3D printing, CNCing, converting inch to millimeters, but most of all: ordering parts and parts and parts. And parts.

But now, I have a "proof of concept" and I have the first panel online end-to end, from the ATX power supply to the switch itself.

Will connect the backlighting tonight and hopefully get these little lights online, too. The LEDs are already confirmed working.

[round sundial]

Backlighting & indicators now working! Thanks to Higgins for troubleshooting.

Next panel: Spin recovery.

The AG button was done with a small diffusing plate. The AA button does not have a diffusing plate. I think the difference is very visible. So moving forward, indicator light definitely needs to be diffused

The outside light bleeding is also noticeable but easy to paint over. The light bleeding inside the indicators is more difficult to overcome I think

[jovial fractal]

Wow. That's quite nice indeed.

[round sundial]

Jettison Button, offroad version

I was not satisfied with the thin rods of the Jettison button. It was kind of mushy. So... like grandma in the kitchen, I looked at what was available in my shop and re-cooked another version. I used Hex standoffs as rods and I split the Jettison PB Disc into two parts, making it printable

Now it has sturdy haptics. Quite some force is required to push the button now.

And yes the dust has been removed afterwards

[twilit shadow]

Oddly satisfying isn’t it😁

[round sundial]

Backlight adjust works well with the OH panels and with the Winwing MIP simultaneously

[craggy drift]

Man. When I get to that point, I don't know if I'm going to be able to resist stopping playing with the backlight knob. 😅

[twilit shadow]

oh, flipping switchs and turning knobs becomes a must do activity when you do.

[twilit shadow]

this looks great, if you don't mind one peice of feedback and is one thing I noticed and I think everyone does this (i did initially as well). the spin recovery light in inverted
the lettering does not light up the rest does.

[round sundial]

Just another thing to add to the long list of things that I got inverted / the other way around / mixed up:

• SPN recovery
• Left and right UIP longerons
• LIP top plate mounted bottom up
• Arduino pins soldered the wrong way around
• Wrong pinout for my 12V cables from PSU to ATX board (safety circuits of ATX rescued me here)
  ... list goes on ...
  😎

[spark barn]

great work @round sundial I'm following your work here and also doing this modification to my build so I can integrate WW MIP to it

could you please check the lenght of the UFC mount that's on the package, I printed it but it ended somewhat short... it aligns perfectly on the upper side of the mount with the face, but the part that should fit with the central tie bracket is too short

or maybe I'm missing something here, my pit is OH standard so the measures shouldn't be the problem, and i don't think is a rescale issue as the top part aligns perfectly

[round sundial]

Hi @spark barn yes happy to check! Can you please make a few more photos including the screw holes that you used, and the face plate you used? It's interesting because this geometry hasn't changed

[round sundial]

Hi @spark barn I have checked the dims in Fusion and the dims of the parts published on the Github. Compiled a quick word document so we can crosscheck

[spark barn]

thanks @round sundial for the Xcheck, I did check all of the measurements and they are all correct, so I start digging back to see what the problem could be... and it ended being the most obvious thing, my longerons where the issue. 🤦‍♂️ I cut them to a 9.63" when the correct length is 9.063", so they were 0.5 inches taller than what they should be, that was what was off. I wasn't this embarrassed in a long time 😂. gladly it was an easy fix and now I'm back on track. Thanks again

[round sundial]

Super and thanks for the feedback! Really valuable to have a crosscheck from time to time:)

[round sundial]

Some progress made this weekend!

I reworked the Spin Recovery panel to try out some of the anti-lightbleeding techniques including the black silcone. Was able to reduce the lightbleed a bit. Also painted the backside of the yellow stripes black such that only the white lights are backlighted. I forgot to paint them black previously and the yellow stripes were letting through quite some backlight.

Also, after @twilit shadow mentioned that the SPN light is red with black font, I developed a nervuos twitching eye whenever I looked at the knob. So that had to change 🙂

• First picture shows the black silicone, applied between light plate and backplate. The instruction says I can remove the overflowing silicone after 24 hours.
• Second picture shows the result. Where I applied too little silicone, light bleeds through. However, that area is tricky, as I dont want the black silicone to block the light to the white stripes too much. I think going forward I won't apply the black silicone in these areas again.
• Third picture shows the renovated SPN recovery light.

For the switches, I don't have a good solution yet. I didn't want to pour silicone in these areas and eventually ruin my legend backlight. However, at least one diode is directly visible, which I will tackle at a later point.

Pit building aside, I am very happy that I chose the LIP + UIP and "get flying soon" approach, as I am spending quite some time already flying. I have an old Winwing PTO and decided tot integrate it into the pit until I have the side console. This results in a bit of a Frankenpit at the moment, but quite playable and fun!

[round sundial]

Today I had a free day and finally got to experiment with a shear to cut aluminum (thanks @terse ermine for the tip):

• 0.5mm thick aluminum plate for the exterior skin
• metallic band on the frame
• magnetic band on the alu plate

[jovial fractal]

the finger prints are going to drive you crazy 😄

[round sundial]

I am really happy with the result! Taking off the skin takes only one second.

[round sundial]

Ah no I don't worry about that yet - have already asked in shops and tools about the priming and coating of alumium. Will try that next. Final finish will be dull grey

[round sundial]

Finally, progress on my indicator lights! After two months of iterations and iterations, I finally got my indicator parts to a quality that I feel good with.

I had to find the right material and the right process; experimented with self-painted clear acrylic, translucent white ABS and finally found some transparent acrylic that is black coated on one side and perfect to be engraved by CNC.

CNC because my Snapmaker laser did not give me the right results.

Left is self-painted. Paint gets chipped away during CNCing and the cuts are unclean. Laser will leave burn dust.
Middle is translucent ABS. Too dark.

Right is the new material and CNC milled. Quite happy!

I engraved the backside of the plate with the font mirrored. This gives a very nice 3D impression (the photos don't do it justice)

[round sundial]

This week I integrated the left and right EWI panels to my UIP.

**Mechanical build: **it fits nicely! I noticed that the EWIs covers the face plate holding screws, so I had to replace the PHS screws I used with countersunk screws (and drill the countersinks to prepare the hole). That was it! The dedicated clearance I put into the UFC backplate are really required to accomodate the left and right EWIs. It was not necessary for me to remove the face plate to mount the EWIs.

Electrical connection 1 - backlights: in vanilla OpenHornet, the backlight bus gets connected in the order Master Arm -> Left EWI -> HUD panel -> Right EWI -> Spin panel (if I recall correctly). Because the HUD panel is (in my case) the Winwing one, the new electrical connection is simpler:
Master Arm -> Left EWI -> Right EWI -> Spin panel.

**Electrical connection 2 - buttons: **the left EWI and the right EWI have two pushbuttons each: the left FIRE and MASTER CAUTION on the left EWI and APU fire and right FIRE on the right EWI. These require three cables per panel to connect to an Open Hornet ABSIS Arduino, normally the HUD panel Arduino. But because I don't have an OH HUD panel and use the Winwing HUD panel, I don't have an Arduino here. Hence, I simply connected the three cables from the left EWI to the Master Arm Arduino and the right EWI cables to the Spin recovery panel. These have enough spare pins each to accommodate the EWI pushbuttons.

Software 1 - backlight: I only had to adapt my codebase to skip the HUD panel LED indices.

Software 2- pushbuttons: I only had to extend the code of the Master Arm panel (left side) and add the two pushbuttons and do the same to the Spin panel on the right side.

Final result: fully integrated vanilla OH EWI panels work nicely together with Winwing MIP!

This photo shows the first loght test. I decided that the light was not diffused enough and it was too easy to see the individual LEDs. Therefore I created these small bricks out of translucent PETG that help to diffuse the light.

Some colours may differ from the original colour on purpose.

The dust on the first photo is really not that visible IRL! My pit is not THAT dirty 🙂

[twilit shadow]

we know, sad part of posting pics is they make everyone look like a slob

[jovial fractal]

I do like the WW panels on the bottom left... That's nice.

[round sundial]

Yes it makes the pit very playable despite not having the left or right consoles. Will eventually be replaced with the IFEI

[jovial fractal]

Yeah, totally fair. That's a really nice way to make it work faster if you already have the panel.

[round sundial]

Metric musings #1

As the title in my build log says, my build is a metric one. I'll write down some "metric musings" with tips / considerations for metric builders. Edition 1: structure. Ed. 2 will be fasteners. Ed 3 will be through holes. Ed.4 electrical and Ed. 5 - dont know yet. Maybe colours.

Structure

The OH structure is specified in MDF and the thickness of the required materials is usually .75 or .5 inches. In metric regions (EU in my case), we usually don't have these thicknesses readily available. For example, hardware stores will usually have 19mm MDF or 18mm plywood as standard thicknesses; both of which isn't the exact specified value of .75 inches (19.05 mm). However, before ordering wood from overseas - check the tolerances! Usually the plywood and MDF tolerances range at +/- .8mm so if you order 19mm MDF, it could be up to 19.8mm thick anyway. In a nutshell: don't worry too much about the material thicknesses. Here are some basic transformations as discussed with @jovial fractal :

|     Specified   thickness    |     Exact   conversion    |     What to   use instead                                                                                                                      |
|------------------------------|---------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
|     .75 MDF                  |     19.05mm               |     18mm   plywood or 19mm  MDF. In general, no   adaptions of the structures needed, but this depends on your individual batch   of wood.     |
|     .5 MDF                   |     12.25 mm              |     12mm   plywood or MDF                                                                                                                      |
|                              |                           |                                                                                                                                                |
|     .063   Rowmark           |     1.6mm                 |     1.5mm   engraving material (CNC-plus.de or Innograv)                                                                                       |
|     .125   Backplate         |     3.175 mm              |     3mm   acrylic                                                                                                                              |
|     .188   Lightplate        |     4.77 mm               |     5 mm   acrylic                                                                                                                             |

[jovial fractal]

Thanks, I'll add that into the convertion script, if you agree with it.

I think that adding a bunch of sentences to warn the users about what he is doing to do isn't a bad idea... I feel like many people will just want a convertion without thinking about manufacturers, tolerances, or stuff like that

[round sundial]

Metric musings #2 - Fasteners

Here is my approach to convert the imperial-size fasteners used by the OH build plans to metric-sized fasteners. The key takeaway is that conversion is possible and straightforward, with little adaptions to the structure. In particular, where 3D printed brackets use hexagonal holes for hex nuts, I recommend adapting these holes to make sure the hex nut doesn't move. Other than that, almost no adaptions are really required.

Screws

**Screw diameter and pitch. ** The Diameter is an important dimension (the first number)
- Forget about the pitch. In the metric system, the pitch is standardized with the diameter and "baked in" I just made sure to get consistently "M" threads instead of "MF" threads. If you order metric fasteners at amazon, you will 99% likely get "M" threads. See table 1

** Screw length**
Not a too important dimension IMHO. Mostly I was able to get away with up to +/- 2mm in length. My suggestion is to obtain several large but cheap screw sets for every dimension (M3 box, M3.5 box, M4 box) with screws of different length and then just use what intuitively fits. See Table 2

** Head angle (in case of flat / pan head screws)
.** OH uses 82 degrees and 100 degrees. This conversion is the easiest one: in the metric system, all head angles are simply 90 degrees, just in the middle. If you manufacture your countersinks using a metric tool, it will be 90 degrees. Where you 3D print countersinks, you can probably get away without even adapting the countersunk hole.

DZUS Not implemented by me yet.

Drive OH uses mostly standard Cross slot or simple slot screws. I recommend strongly going for either allen key heads (in case of panel screws) or Torx heads (for your wood screws), because their torque tolerance is much higher. In my case, my structure is made out of plywood, which is much more rigid and I simply destroyed all the cross slot screws I started out with and replaced them with Torx.

.

Holes for fasteners

Only the 6-32 / M3.5 conversion is a tight fit. All other holes fit nicely. Us a washer in case of a loose fit.

.

Hex Nut holes

This is more important once again and probably the only spot where I carefully consider metric adaptions. The OH brackets use many "holes for hex nuts" and if I simply use the hex nut without adaptions, it may happen that the hex nuts turns in situ and I can't tighten the screw / nut combination.


Image 1: I do not perform any adaptions here, because the hex nut could also be held in place with a plier until tight enough. Image 2: for this black bracket, I definetely adapt the hole for the hex nut because it is inaccessible.

.

** End result**

Here is my final conversion table as per part number. Contains most of the screws used in OH.

[jovial fractal]

Holy shit that's awesome! This needs to be added to the repo.

Thanks!

[jovial fractal]

@round sundial I added your text in my fork. I think I could change my small tool to an actual guide for the conversion to be PR at some point.
if you want to have a look https://github.com/breithzell/OpenHornet/tree/Convert_Name_To_Metric/utils/tools/MetricConversion

[round sundial]

That sounds great I'll have a look at it

[round sundial]

Hi @jovial fractal ! I finally came around to take a look at your repo. Looks great, especially in conjunction with your script. Few remarks: I think the readme should be README.md instead of README.mk to make Github render it properly. This should also enable Github to render the embedded pictures

Also, in the Powershell script, I think the last rowmark entry should be .1mm instead of .01mm @jovial fractal

[jovial fractal]

Ah shit GitHub is doing it differently than gitlab. Yes it needs to be changed.

That looks like a typo. Should be 0.1, I went with keeping the zero every time as it's a bit more confusing in metric.

And thanks for the feedback!

[whole stone]

@jovial fractal & @round sundial - Thanks so much for posting your metric conversion information and the script. As a fellow Metric man and newbie to OpenHornet these have been invaluable to me.
I am happy to be your Guinea Pig moving forward to try out and review your work as I implement it. I’ve already downloaded your modifications and ran your script from it’s location in the download.
I noticed at first nothing happened and after reviewing your script it looks as though it is looking into the directory that is two above the file location (where I ran it) for the “release" folder. In its current location the ‘release’ folder is three folders above so I moved the script to the \utils\tools folder and then it worked fine.

Also, after running the script whilst browsing various manufacturing folders I noticed that not all names had been changed. It seems as though there are subtle differences in the way some files are named (ie 0.50 vs 0.500) so I changed the script for MDF and Acrylic to this which then seemed to work better for me. Obviously please check my work and happy to provide any more detail as required in the hope that someone else gets some benefit.

[jovial fractal]

Ah fuck. I didn't check every file. I assumed they were following a strict naming convention.

That's something to discuss with @craggy drift. In my opinion, if the file doesn't follow the convention, we should change the original file instead of my script.

I see that you added the "mm" to be explicit. I didn't on purpose because the original convention doesn't. But... That actually not a bad idea to make it clear that the names have been changed. I honestly have no preference, so... Anyone else using metric has any input on that? Noctum, if you're planning to accept the PR, any preference?

[whole stone]

Agree. Would be wise to ensure a strict naming convention. I also noticed an ACRL_.005_ naming convention in some folders (such as the OH1A4 ASSY Eyebrow Warning Module Left). To me this makes no sense as .005 inches is 0.127mm and I for one have never seen acrylic come this thin - but happy to be corrected as I am the new guy here.

[twilit shadow]

yes, it just means humans made a mistake, every file was exported by hand and named by a small group of contributors.
if you have a list of the files that need fixing could someone open a issue on it and include the list of files please.

[jovial fractal]

OK, if it's not done on purpose, I'll do that.

[twilit shadow]

the naming standard is here for reference
https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/wiki/build-package-requirements#svg-files

the requirement does not call out explicitly to be to the thousands (.xxx) though all examples show that. and step files do not contrail the thickness

[whole stone]

Thanks Sandra for the explanation. So is the ACRL_.005_ a mistake - perhaps meant to be 0.050" (1.27mm) - or is there some uber thin acrylic in the northern hemisphere I am not tracking ? 😁

[twilit shadow]

so technically as the standard is written its not a invalid number, it says decimal inches, normally when writing numerics the correct way is X,xxx and if X is >1 then its a 0. however the example drop it and just use .xxx
<MATERIAL><MATERIAL COLOR, IF APPLICABLE><THICKNESS, IN DECIMAL INCHES><PN><DESCRIPTION>_<REV>_V<VERSION

though ACRL0.005 would be wrong in other ways
ACRLIC_WHITE-0.005 for example is the naming

its probably a good idea to open the issue regardless as the standard is not clear on that
I suspect @craggy drift will say it should be .xxx

[whole stone]

I can see how easy it is for us humans to make a mistake as I did in my previous post. I accidentally typed 0.005 instead of .005. sorry about that. I have edited it to hopefully alleviate even more confusion! What I am still unsure of though, is in these parts (see photo) am I trying to source acrylic that is .005 inches thick - or is this also an error?

[jovial fractal]

I was going to regex everything that doesn't follow the rule 😄

[jovial fractal]

I think the 0.005" ACRL is okay. That's.. basically a plastic sticker? There is way too many occurrences of that thing on labels to be a mistake. It must be the decal part.

But I've found a few missing _, and I wanna rise the question of the 2 vs 3 digits. That's totally inconsistent.

I'll make the issue. I can share the code/outcomes with the files matching each regex if anyone wants to double check.

[jovial fractal]

@whole stone https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/issues/1128 let me know if I missed something

[twilit shadow]

IMHO Noctum will go with the 3 digit dropping the whole numebr part since nothing is greater than 1 inch.
thanks for the ticket, you know Noctum, if there's not a issue for it, it's not a issue

[jovial fractal]

Yep. Fair enough.

[craggy drift]

Thanks for the issue. So, imperial numbers do not get a leading zero (.xxx) while metric numbers do get a leading zero (0.xxx) per ASME Y14.100. Also, the .005 acrylic is correct. It's color film or transparency depending on usage. And yes, I have no doubt the file names are riddled with errors - release time was a massive push by a small group. Lol.

[twilit shadow]

isn't the material suppose to specify the color as well ?
so ACRL should be more like ACYRLIC_CLEAR is it was clear

[jovial fractal]

I also found the .005 thickness very confusing. If it's just a plastic film, I would rather prefer to have another name for the material, if possible.

[twilit shadow]

The name should match the material of the part as that's what we went by

[jovial fractal]

sure... but... is a film really the same as an acrylic bloc?

[twilit shadow]

depends on the film, there is definely .005" acrylic films for laser engraving out there.
I have some of it

this is 0.004" but
https://www.jpplus.com/rowmark-laserlights-engraving-plastic?sku=S611224-SHT
though that is technically Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)

[jovial fractal]

We also could that call RWMK...

[twilit shadow]

true

[jovial fractal]

I mean... I'll drop it. It doesn't really matter. My point is more than "acrylic" is usually something to make a panel, more than a film. If we go with RWMK for very specific material, I don't see why not use "film" or whatever else.

I also saw "label" used somewhere. Not in the material list, but for the documentation

[craggy drift]

I agree with keeping a consistent three or four letter material code, but it should match the parts list as well, and driving a crap ton of drawing updates and MPL updates is a huge undertaking if we aren't updating drawings for other reasons.

[jovial fractal]

ooooh right. I forgot about that part...

.... I could write a python script to run it on the Fusion 360 design...

mass renaming isn't that hard with the API...

[craggy drift]

It's a matter of changing to the actual OH material library since there are material properties and appearances tied to those.

[jovial fractal]

Oh... It's not just the bodies. Okay

[craggy drift]

(Which then drives my FEA / hand calc analysis results.)

[jovial fractal]

well... That can be scripted to reduce the complexity... I can have a look if you think it will be useful. Otherwise, so be it.

(I'm really starting to like this API)

[craggy drift]

You can absolutely look into it, as I see value, but updates to the MPL are manual, so when it runs, need a delta list for the materials for ease of integration.

[jovial fractal]

MPL ?

But OK. List with the changes. Got it.

[craggy drift]

The excel Master Parts List at the top level of the drawing package.

[jovial fractal]

wait what? You can't get Fusion to export that to csv automatically ?

If it can export bodies to STLs, it must be able to export a csv...

[craggy drift]

No, because its modified to be a very nice Pivot Table.

We COULD program it, but that too would be a lot of work.

(When you dig into the guts, unhide the sheets that feed it and unprotect those sheets for playing with.)

[jovial fractal]

I'm fine with coding in Python with the Fusiuon API.... I'm not going anywhere near coding in VB in Excel.

I wanna keep my sanity

[craggy drift]

Oh, I feel you. A major duty at my job now is programming Seimen's NX API in VB.NET....because thats what the lead journal guy wants to program it all in instead of C#. Its...painful.

[jovial fractal]

Outch...

[craggy drift]

Send me your fusion email in a DM so I can invite you to the actual OH Fusion project with a read only access.

[jovial fractal]

OK.

[whole stone]

Thanks for the explanations everyone. Very helpful. I can see how it all works now in the OH-SPEC-001 document. What threw me as I browsed the manufacturing folders was the "ACRL_.005" label. I spent about an hour looking for acrylic sheets that are that thin and when I couldn't find anything anywhere near that thin I thought it must be a mistake! Such a Noob. I do agree with Breith's point about it being more of a film than acryclic sheet, but can also see that the juice just aint worth the squeeze for all the effort required to rename.

[whole stone]

Looks good to me.

[jovial fractal]

WHY. Now that Noctum mentionned the hidden sheet I want to write a converter script to metric.
WWWWHHYYYY?! I said I didn't want to code in Excel 😭

[whole stone]

@round sundial I've printed all your modified 3D pieces for the UIP, but had a problem with OH1A8A4-10_MOD HUD BIT BOX.step. I enabled support (and printed side down as per the text) but it seemed to print a support layer incorrectly, effectively splitting the unit in half. Have you had any such issues?

A similar thing happened when printing OH1A1-23_MOD_B AFT SUPPORT. I opened it in Fusion and exported it as an STL and it then printed fine. The photo below is of the two slices.

I think I answered my own question. I opened the original .step file in Fusion and exported it as an STL. I took a photo of both with support enabled and there is a big difference with the way it slices. The original .step is on the right (with weird slice), and the exported STL is on left. Strange. I will have to try it again with the exported .STL

[jovial fractal]

You could try with "tree" supports. See if it slices a bit better

[round sundial]

This! And also, my recommendation is to always check supports manually instead of automatic placement. Most of the screw holes do not need support.

@whole stone

[round sundial]

I did not encounter the problem on this part (which I printed about 5 times), but the symptom looks more like a shifted model during print rather than a support config issue when slicing

[whole stone]

I used tree supports on the one I exported from Fusion to STL and it worked fine. Thanks for the advice.

[round sundial]

Pit update

Quite some progress in the last days. I tried to concentrate all the non-OH works that I intend to do into one sprint so I can proceed with standard-OH thereafter.

• Built the left and right console and painted them. I designed shorter versions of the consoles due to space constraints in the dedicated space that I have for OH.
• I also integrated LED strips into the LC and RC. I used an LED strip that uses the same, individually adressable LEDs like the OH LEDs. This allows me to connect and steer the LED strips via the backlight controller. I did this mainly in preparation for MR, as adequate lighting conditions are supposedly crucial for the passthrough to work well.
• Decided to postpone building the OH throttle and integrate the Winwing Gemini throttle instead, mainly due to part availability at vendors
• Received the Dogfight Dynamics Ejection seat after only four months waiting time and assembled it.
• Disassembled my old WW PTO 1 and repurposed the Lollipop lever to serve as my gear lever lollipop. Thought it would be as simple as a switch, but it turned out the use a hall sensor and I2C protocol. Reverse-engineering that one was quite fun!

[slow palm]

Im about to assemble my L/R consoles. I like the idea of the strip lighting, I might add that!

[twilit shadow]

This is what I love about the OH design, for the most part if you want to use existing hardware you can modify the design (since you have the fusion files) to do what you want.

[glacial idol]

Yes, i have also adapt some parts, like the orion2 throttle for have the sane Travel as the original..

[round sundial]

That looks very promising. It looks like a custom finger lift as well?

[glacial idol]

Yes i have adapt also the finger lift

[kindred shell]

Any more pictures/info on this? I have the same Orion 2, but couldn’t figure out a way to incorporate it into the build without losing some panels.

[glacial idol]

Hi, it's a job I did a few months ago, here are some photos in case if it's allowed I can share the project here with the .f3d file, then obviously everyone will make the right finishes also based on the tolerances and the quality of the 3D printer they own..

[kindred shell]

I'd definitely be interested in the files as well as how you disassembled the Orion 2. You should probably move this to another channel such as other-hotas, so we don't clutter up this build thread.

[craggy drift]

It is! Just zip it up with a LICENSE.txt file with following (filled out)

<Project Name> © 2025 by <Full name> is licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International and is a derivative work of OpenHornet. (https://www.OpenHornet.com) 
To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/. 

THE PRODUCT IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE AUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM, OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE PRODUCT OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE PRODUCT.

OR you can even submit it as a user mod.

(So it's in the OH github.)

[glacial idol]

As suggested I am sharing my project here so that it can be of help to you as yours have been to me

[solar lion]

What did you print it out of? PETG or?

[glacial idol]

I had use for total project always PLA+

[twilit shadow]

do be carefull with PLA, it can not hanlde heat like PETG can nor the structural load PETG can. so around the power supply will get hot. probably not the place to PLA. just as a caution

[glacial idol]

Thanks for the advice, just in case I plan to have the entire power supply external and only signals and low voltages travel inside. The idea is a sort of external GPU that can be disconnected as needed. Like "our ground electrical power" on DCS..

[round sundial]

Metric Musings #3 - Through holes

As posted in my metric musings #2 (#1278055599082442907 message), I highly recommend adapting the OH parts that require a hex nut to be placed deep into a hole, like these:

Without adaptation, it might happen that the hex nut does not fit in the hole, or is too loose in the hole and cannot be properly tightened anymore, as it is not reachable with tools.

The trick is to edit the hole size to metric via Fusion360 press/pull command ("Q" shortcut on the keyboard). Here is how it is done:

1. Find the isolated part in the Data Panel or isolate the part in the document that you already have open: Right click on part body --> find in browser --> right click on the part name in browser --> isolate)
2. Use the "I" keyboard shortcut to measure the current distance between two opposite flat sides of the hex nut and note it down.
3. For the metric nut you intend to use, find the required distance between two opposite sides (diameter "s") in the table below.
4. Select all six faces of the part. Then, apply the "Q" command and enter the offset you need to get to your target diameter. Thats it!

Here are some target diameter for standard metric hex nuts.

M4 - 7mm
M5 - 8mm
M6 - 10mm

To adapt round holes, the same "Q" trick can be applied. Only one thing to understand: the "offset" that Fusion asks you to enter will be the new absolute radius of the hole (so not a difference value, and not a diameter).

[round sundial]

Thanks @peak wharf for this technique by the way!

[jovial fractal]

should I update the guide for the PR ? 😄

[round sundial]

It would definetely make it more complete. Would appreciate it!

[jovial fractal]

I'll do that tomorrow. It's quite easy to do, when you did all the work and I just have to copy/paste...

[round sundial]

Build update

So I was on a OH building sprint today. Finally was able to finish the JETT SEL panel, after weeks of parts sourcing, building, re-building and soldering. This panel is massive. Both in terms of complexity as well as in terms of sheer size.

Few shared experiences:

• Mag switch building is easier than I thought
• For the turn/press Jett SEL button, I used all parts as per spec from McMasterCarr. I found that there was no way around it. The gears were printed in PETG and I had another set ordered in nylon from JLCPCB, which I ended up using. The PETG gear would break at the insert screw if turned too tightly.
• For the switch caps, I simply used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4819556/files.

On another note, I was able to obtain a Winwing Super Taurus for small bucks (barely three digits) and will pivot from the WW Gemini to integrate the Super Taurus (which will set my build schedule back for 2-3 weeks). This thing is absolutely massive as well!

[lime fulcrum]

Hi, Nice work. I'm just waiting for it and so I would need help. What kind of 5-position and 45-degree rotary switch did you use and where did you buy it? I can't find it in Europe. Thank you very much

[round sundial]

I used the specified Grayhill 50KS45-01-1-05N rotary switch. You can order it in Europe via Mouser or Digikey. I paid 35.80 EUR + 19% VAT + shipping for it

What you are looking at is a glimpse at the cost of the pit - 650 EUR recent orders at Mouser, only for switches ...

Build update

I have been working on my SuperTaurus integration, which (finally) worked. The used SuperTaurus I acquired received some pre-installation care:

• removed old machine grease and applied new grease type recommended by @craggy drift
• replaced the stock one-sided Winwing brushes with dual-sided brushes to provide a better dust cover and make it look neat
• some minor tweaks to better protect the cabling
• designed a base support such that the ST doesn't 'hang' on the structure, but its weight is supported from below. As a side effect, the assembly feels much more rigid now

Total cost for the Taurus less than 150 EUR including the grease and the brushes. 😀

will post final integration photos soon.

new grease

Grease: https://amzn.eu/d/7PL7sBR
Brushes: https://amzn.eu/d/56HMD7A

[lime fulcrum]

Thank you very much, you helped me a lot.

[old totem]

Hello! Im currently following your lovely winwing modification, do you happen to have a fusion file/build documentation available to the public?

[jovial fractal]

They are merged with the develop branch. As well as the associated conversion guide.

https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/tree/develop/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii

[old totem]

Thank you!

[round sundial]

Good luck and please sned feedback 🙂

[round sundial]

Starting my work on an integrated PC. Made a small custom frame. This might actually work.

Some "tactical revisions" to the inner structure of the UIP will be next. Finally, proper ducting and venting to GPU and CPU.

From factor is Mini ITX and a 280 AIO cooler.

[craggy drift]

That is pretty dang slick man.

[round sundial]

Been working on LIP improvement and the IFEI integration lately.

• moved my Winwing AMPCD screen up for a better integrated look with the Winwing HUD panel; then discovered there is a usable gap between AMPCD and ECM panel; then had an idea and created a "drawer" which allows me to store keyboard and kneeboard. Yes, not like in the real aircraft, but the real aircraft also does not require a keyboard...
• instead of having the screen behind the frame, I modified the frame such that the screen sits flush (-2mm) on top.
• some tactical modifications to the IFEI backplate were required such that the solder spots are not higher than 2mm. The picture shows the the situation after grinding and before cleaning
• For the Jettison pushbuttons, I reduced tolerances and constructed inner walls such that there will be no lightbleed between upper and lower LEDs. Results are yet to be seen. I can already say that I was not successful yet in removing the wobbliness of the buttons.

[jovial fractal]

Where did you get the screen? The American provider?

[round sundial]

I typed the serial number into google and there was a screen and control PCB available on ebay so I took that

[twilit shadow]

Hey, soldering tip for flush mount leads, place the part. trim lead flush before soldering then solder to a flush finish

[round sundial]

Good tip thanks! Yes when I soldered it I didn't have the idea with the screen yet

[olive hemlock]

The little keyboard hole looks nice

[modern knot]

Hi @round sundial ! Huge thanks for your huge work and especially thank you for sharing it. I was going to do the same thing then @craggy drift directed me to your work. Between the conversion to metric and the winwing adaptation + the Gemini throttle adaptation you saved me hours of work!

[round sundial]

My pleasure 🙂

[round sundial]

METRIC MUSINGS #4 - Electrical

After having touched most of the electrical concepts in OH (ABSIS bus, backlight bus, RS485, mag switches etc. ...)., I feel ready to discuss metric in the electrical architecture. This topic is short and easy.

Connectores
No change requirements here.

Cables
OH prescribes cabling sizes in OH-SPEC-002 ABSIS Cables, e.g. "AWG16" . Most cable suppliers in metric countries (Amazon, Ali, ...) provide cable sizes in mm^2 and in AWG sizes at the same time, so it should not be a problem to source exactly according OH spec. A conversion table AWG --> mm^2 is attached (Source: electricalworld.com)

ABSIS ALE PCBs
No change requirements here. M3 screws will work instead of the prescribed #2-56 screws. They fit through the PCB holes. Some PCBs (e.g. IFEI) have additional holes that require an M2 or M2.5 screw to fit.

Standoffs
ALE to adapter: M3. Adapter to panel: I use either M3 or M4 standoffs, with a preference to M4 wherever it fits. For most backlplates and PCBs, they fit easily. HOWEVER, M4 screws do not readily fit through the 3D-printed adapter plates (see picture). For these adapter plates, either adapt the hole size pre-print or brute-force the holes to the right size post print (both approaches work).

Power ratings
Fortunately, an imperial watt seems to be identical to a metric watt.

SUMMARY: electrical is no big problem in terms of metric conversion. But my recommendation is to have a big bulk of M2, M2.5, M3, M4 screws and standoffs available.

[jovial fractal]

Did you get all the standoff in metric?

[round sundial]

yes

[slow palm]

The only issue I found with metric for the boards was the small brass screws i got, which i believe are m3, don't hold the board as the board hole is too big. 3d printed some washers to fix. I've also found no real issues with the electrical work using metric thus far.

[round sundial]

Which board? M3 fits fine in the Ale. But M2 is a bit small

[slow palm]

They are actually M2, and it seems to only be an issue with the bacnlight control and psu boards. The ale work fine. Nothing major

[civic garnet]

Do the white AND yellow bars on the real panel backlight?

[round sundial]

The white bars backlight; the yellow bars do not. You can block light in the yellow bars by applying a coat of black first

[civic garnet]

Ok, Thankyou very much. I’m using rwmk so will potentially only laser engrave the white bars.

[fading thistle]

@round sundial Do you have a link to Nick's winwing mod?

[round sundial]

No but I think @placid socket is on this server

[fading thistle]

isn't he the guy that own the shop who sells the UFC segments display ?

[craggy drift]

No.

[fading thistle]

@round sundial I was able to modify your mod to integrate the UFC but keep the rest as OH

[round sundial]

#1263299903552225320 message

Link to a link to links for Nicks mod

@fading thistle

[fading thistle]

Thank! 🙏

[modern knot]

hello ! @round sundial very hard and nice work ! is it on your github branch ? I could find it ! i'm very interrinsting ! bye

[round sundial]

If you are unfamiliar w Github:

https://makerworld.com/models/650441

Otherwise:

https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/tree/develop/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii

[modern knot]

Yes, I found that, thanks, but I was talking about parts for the Gemini Throttle Base.

[round sundial]

I found a Super Taurus eventually and stopped working on the Gemini.

[modern knot]

Sorry for my bad English... I wanted to know if you still had the files of the parts in red.

[ionic bough]

I too would be interested in them as just ordered a Winwing Orion setup for throttles

[fading thistle]

Orion 1 or 2?

Because I am working on integrating the Orion 2

[ionic bough]

My mistake it a Gemini throttle I’ve ordered from Winwing

So the Gemini parts would be perfect

[round sundial]

@ionic bough here you go. As-is basis; I wont develop this further. The cutout for the USB cable is missing and you definetely will need to print the brackets on the side of the gemini two times for fit. Also note that you will need to do some adaptions onv the SIM PWR panel and change the Arduino placement on the ext lts panel to make everything fit.

[ionic bough]

👍 🫡

[slow palm]

Did you look? Scroll up about 7 posts and click on his github.

[round sundial]

Another behemoth of a panel is ready to go - the last panel of my left console!

All worked right the first time around - thanks to careful wiring, careful reading and not soldering stuff inverted this time around. Pretty proud also about the surface finish, using three layers of matte clear paint.

[twilit shadow]

Woohooo yeh it’s a beast

[round sundial]

Finished my left console today.

I build a "short variant" of the pit without the last rib. So I came up with a custom panel for USB and OBOGS. Maintaining the OBOGS allows me to keep the startup flow without clicking virtual switches.
The ANT SEL panel is gone thougb.

Cable lacing: at 1.05 inches, probably good enough

Mag switch hacking: the return force was not high enough; the switch would stay in pisition even without mag on; so I installed a spring to increase the return force. I also installed a small steel plate that increases holding force of the mag by about 3x

Little gizmo in the LC cutout is my 50W buttkicker amp. More than enough

[fading thistle]

Did you heat shrink a spring?

[round sundial]

yes.

It prevents nearby cables to get into the spring thread.

[fading thistle]

Also protects against shorts if the spring is conductive

[slow palm]

Fantastic idea.

[round sundial]

Working on the RC panels. This one is such a nice design and turned out quite nice, too! True OH aficionados will spot the two deviations from spec that I did here.

Needles were made (engraved) from legend plate material.

Under the hood, more changes on the shafts and needles to fit my specific printer tolerances and design, as I am using rather thick 3mm acrylic glass.

[round sundial]

... except I did not get it to work reliably. Between messages dropped from DCS Bios and magnets that won't hold after a while (https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/issues/1029), I decided to pull the trigger on some COTS mag switches so I can reduce potential bug sources.

[twilit shadow]

They are nice, especially since they only draw like 100-150mA @ 28v (but will hold down to 6V and 12v works nicely)

[round sundial]

Right Console coming together step by step.

Hook lever, wing fold handle, caution panel frame, vertical panel: all made from aluminum, CNCed at JLCPCB.

[fading thistle]

Looking good Ulukaii! 🎉

[fervent crescent]

Like your radio call panel/badge. I definitely need to personalize mine one day.

[round sundial]

Continuing with the right console, experimenting with the FlitePal mag switches. So far, they work great!

They use only 5V to latch the switch. Very satisfying loud clack when returning. At least the small one fits nicely into the space for the 647H/2 switch that is OH spec. It has an internal MOSFET so the "signal line" can be connected directly to the Arduino, no need for relay board.

At 70 bucks, cost is a factor, but worth it IMHO.Ivan, the founder, wrote me that continuous operation is not a problem.

Besides, I now have an RS485 test station of which I am very proud of! So I can test RS485 bus in my basement workshop without the need to go to the 3rd floor where my simpit is

[twilit shadow]

but man are the weak holding power

[ionic bough]

Does this wire direct to the ALE and work with std OH CODE no special code needed

[round sundial]

Yes and yes

You wire the yellow line ("ARM" directly to fhe ALE on pin 2, which would normally be used to drive the relay.

[fathom carbon]

Hey @round sundial great work here integrating the winwing MIP! Quick question: I'm trying to figure out how the new design display pressure foot (x2) attach to the face plate. I can't see any good view of it on the pictures and there don't appear to be any holes that match up with their position on the face plate itself. Is there something im missing? Do you have a link to the 3d model of the redesigned UIP assembly? Thanks for any guidance you have, again this is an awesome mod!

[ionic bough]

I’m art the same stage and also trying to figure this out the rest of I have done

[round sundial]

RS485 galore

right console

all Arduinos working & sending signals

FlitePal mag switch (1) working

custom ALEs with integrated relay board & Schottky diode

Backlighting is next.

[round sundial]

Hi
the lower hole of the display pressure foot on either side has a corresponding hole on the face plate. (the upper hole is just for symmetry so you can print the same part twice) This was added in a revision. If from wherever you downloaded it it is not there, let me know.

[torpid plume]

The OH dev branch seems to have that hole only in the right ddi side. Hasn’t that been updated?

Is this pr related to that? (Update: sorry can confirm the repo has the hole revision. I might have messed up with files from the makerworld download)

https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/pull/1126

[round sundial]

Negative progress for the last few days.

It started when I bought the VR headset. What followed, was massive stuttering, resulting in buying a 5080. Followed by the same stuttering. Followed by completely reinstalling the PC on a new SSD. Followed by a virtually unplayable experience on multiplayer.

I read and applied all the guides, did the ED log analyzer, process lassoed on and off, unparked cores, fiddled in the BIOS, no improvement. Going to re-install Windows completely once again. Going to lose 3 days once again.

Really annoyed.

[jovial fractal]

out of curiosity... does it work just fine without DCSBios running and basically no cockpit active?

[torpid plume]

And all displays off?

DCS VR tuning is really black magic

[torpid plume]

Mind letting us know your headset, link type etc?

[round sundial]

Hi @torpid plume , @jovial fractal

I cant even dream about plugging the VR headset after the reinstall of Win 11. Not even close to that stage yet.

I do not worry about DCS Bios and the screens in general, they have no effect. GPU does not seem to be a bottleneck

I am having heavy (multi-second) stutters that seem to be CPU-related, according DCS FPS counter.

So I tried unparking, thread priority, blablabla, but no stable improvement.

I cannot express how much I hate Windows and Win-related tinkering.

AMD AM5 processor
RTX 5080
96GB RAM
PCIe 5.0
Most graphics settings low

[torpid plume]

I can definitely feel your frustration. I have 7800x3d and 4080s, quest 3 with virtual desktop. Tried long time to have a stable experience, yet any dcs update would break it now and then. DCS multi threading has improved a lot but yes it still has micro stuttering. It’s difficult to find the proper option to get that away. For reference msaa 4x would cause stuttering instantly for me.

[twilit shadow]

Is you CPU being over clocked in the bios? if so turn off over clocking. maybe even reduce max speed to a bit below max just to elimate that as an issue.
same for the 5080, turn off over clocking.

if you are not overclocking ignore this if you are does it have any impact

another thing , clear your shader cache <saved gamesa>/fxo and <saved games>metashaders2 which is always a good idea IMHO to do after a DCS update and before you start the sim

[sacred forge]

That’s an important thing to do. I have a .bat file that does it with one click.

You might try to roll back your gpu driver as well

And what VR headset did you get?

[round sundial]

Pico 4 Ultra. In the corner, collecting dust

[fading thistle]

How's the AR with the Pico 4 Ultra? I was thinking about getting one

[round sundial]

@fading thistle I dont know. Ask @slow palm

[slow palm]

I will record some video in the next few days to show it.

[round sundial]

BUILD UPDATE

For the last four weeks, it feels like I just need three more days to finish the right console. However, there are always new ideas like these back covers for the CB panel and the canopy SW I wanted to make (files attached), then chasing some electrical gremlins around as well as some step backs when I discovered some LEDs are not working and likely need replacement. Maybe I fried them - just glad so far all functionality is working.

RS485 - on the RC I forgot almost everywhere to twist the two signal cables, and I also don't have a termination resistor. But the signal still works, (against the serial monitor )and reliably. Next step will be to lift the RC beauty from the basement to the roof and do some in-game testing.

[torpid plume]

Looking good. Btw do you plan to share the uplifted AMPCD support design? Interested to print that.

[round sundial]

Yet ANOTHER thing I wanted to do! Does it ever stop? 🙂 Yes going to share and update the mod when I get to it.

[torpid plume]

Great 👍 looking forward to that. Thank you.

Indeed it never stops and that’s where the fun is🫡

[twilit shadow]

In case you’re wondering, we didn’t put back covers on things because in the real hornet, they don’t have back covers just careful wire routing, at least that is my understanding

However, that looks really nice and neat and I like it

[round sundial]

Today was the "wedding" ! Right console is now where it should be and first tests OK!

Only small issues

• no backlight on landing checklist and AV cool
• INTR LT panel probably has a floating pin
• Bleed Air 360 rotary knob is at the exact mediocre quality as I fabricated it...
• still need to connect the flood light

when this is done in a few days, I call my pit "feature complete" as I can now can start the plane without any mouse clicks.

I really put myself into completion stress the last few days.

Everything else (sby instruments, Rad Alt, outer and inner skins: no rush

[fading thistle]

So beautiful!

[twilit shadow]

Nice!!!

[torpid plume]

@round sundial great progress. The photo also answers the question I wanted to ask about the ddi display corners 🤣

[placid socket]

Sorry. Fnished my pit for the most part about 5 months ago and haven't chimmed in here in a bit. I developed the mod for adapting the WinWing AMPCD screens, AMPCD Bezels and UFC into the OpenHornet footprint. Does someone have questions? I thought they made that mod and official mod to download from the Github.

[round sundial]

@placid socket there is your mod and there is my mod. Both are architecturally different in that you fit the DDIs into the legacy footprint of the UIP, whereas my mod allows the DDIs to extrnd the UIP downwards by 1.5cm.

Your mod preserves the old geometry, while my mod preserves the old eybrows and no WW screen disassembly.

If you want to commit your mod to the official repo, I think people will appreciate it especially for the HUD frame and the canopy bow. And they would see two options for integrating WW, which is nice.

But you need to PR yourself

[placid socket]

Cool. Nice work fitting it all

[round sundial]

Finally got around to improve the LIP Winwing integration:

• now a snug fit with the Winwing HUD panel
• screen is still removable without removing the UIP
• the structural panel now holds the screen box with five heat sinks and screw from the front instead of the back. This allows disassembly without crawling into the LIP
• even bigger storage room below/behind the Winwing screen now, for keyboard, kneeboard, VR dongles etc

Going to upload to the repo and Makerworld later today

@torpid plume 🙂

[jovial fractal]

thanks! Too bad I printed everything last week... I'll have to reprint it! 😄

[round sundial]

only the LIP parts (yes I know that is most of the prints). The Storage cover lid stays the same

[torpid plume]

Wow big thanks this is wonderful

Saw the update on your GitHub. I’m getting up to print👍

[oblique mortar]

Im in the same boat lol time to reprint!

[torpid plume]

I couldn't find the AMPCD mount in the V3 folder

[sacred forge]

Where can I find this update on github? Cannot se a V3 folder.

[torpid plume]

https://github.com/eHanseJoerg/OpenHornet/tree/WW-Mod-V3/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii

Please kindly let me know if you see the AMPCD mount for the V3.

[round sundial]

Hi @torpid plume @sacred forge

apologies for the confusion I had to rename the parts to stay in compliance with the contribution guidelines (because now the upper central pedestal face is a custom part, whereas previously it was untouched). In that process I overlooked to re-upload the now new AMPCD mount itself. Latest commit is now online and the name of the file is FDM_OH2A1-17-MOD-E AMPCD Mount.step

For the time being, it is only part of my personal repository until it is accepted into the official OH repo as a mod! So you have the right link @torpid plume !

[jovial fractal]

Just out of curiosity... Why using version folder instead of just letting git do its things?

[round sundial]

@torpid plume @oblique mortar @jovial fractal the optimized fit also means that tolerances are tight! Once you reprinted and installed on your rigs, kindly let me know if you encounter any issues. For instance, if your UIP face plate thickness is less than 5.5mm, the AMPCD case and the HUD panel will be touching. The OH spec for the UIP face plate is 7.7mm if I recall correctly

[round sundial]

To allow non-git people to find older versions, if they have / use the V1 or V2 of this mod.

[jovial fractal]

Ok! I printed my face, so it should have the thickness of the 3mf file.

Fair enough.

I still need to finish building the UIP/LIP. A bit more cutting is needed so I won't be using it that soon, but I didn't had the courage to setup my router out yet.

[torpid plume]

Nice. I've finished the upper central pedestal face and box, which fits fine. I'm going to print the ampcd mount. Will report any issue if there is any.
BTW: I'm using WW DDI frames but 3rd-party displays. I 'duplicated' the weired WW display shape to fix your design lol.

[round sundial]

Ah thats very interesting. I have thought long if I should have the WW screen encasings removed like in @placid socket's mod. But for now keeping them because warranty void etc

Do you use the duplicated encasing design for the upper DDI as well or no encasing there?

[torpid plume]

No. I applied a simpler thin shape for the upper DDIs.

[round sundial]

👍
Wen build log 🙂 ?

[torpid plume]

No plan yet. I have such a derived build and until very recently I decided to invest more to use more OH spec design. 🙈

[jovial fractal]

Warranty with WW is... Well. Flimsy, at best.

[torpid plume]

But the problem is the WW display cost is like 4-5x of a 3rd-party one. I believe it's wise to use it as is.

[jovial fractal]

Yeah fair enough.

And is clearly not 4-5x better...

But the full plugnplay is nice.

[torpid plume]

They save a startech probaly though

[sacred forge]

You don’t need to apologize. We have to thank you for sharing your work every time.

[oblique mortar]

@round sundial Can you upload a few screen shots on how the new AMPCD Box with display attached back to your new Upper central Pedestal face. I see the screw hole in the middle of new mount and pedestal box but based on your list of hardware its not making sense to me.

[round sundial]

Hi @oblique mortar
The parts list is still WIP on GH. The AMPCD box uses 5 M4 screws to be attached to the new upper central pedestal face. On the upper central pedestal face, you need five corresponding M4 heat inserts

Here it is already updated https://makerworld.com/de/models/650441-v3-openhornet-mod-for-winwing-integration

Observe also that the upper central pedestal face now mounts with extra brackets to the structure. This facilitates that it can be removed, as the legacy side screw is not accessible anymore after you install the IFEI and the SBY instrument module

I think 8-32 will work instead of M4 if you are on team imperial

[oblique mortar]

I think whats confusing me is the 4 on the face.

[oblique mortar]

Also is the box for the AMPCD supposed to mount from front on the center hole?

There is another box lol

guess im reprinting

[round sundial]

So the screw holes that you marked red correspond to what I marked green

[oblique mortar]

makes sense now. how do we attach the display? there are no holes on the sides where you have CSonks

[round sundial]

Is there a box too much somewehre?

[oblique mortar]

these holes

[round sundial]

For the display: mount the rod-like brackets onto the display with M5 (the native WW screws). Then you can put the display onto the box. Then 4 screws from the side that fasten the rod-like brackets against the box

I see I should expand the readme a bit 😉

[oblique mortar]

i see it now. In my defense im sleep deprived rn

But I am certain that when i follow your link those files arent in the ampcd download

[torpid plume]

These brackets come with WW display? I guess I need to duplicate them too now. 🧐

[twilit shadow]

ah, my constant state. Sleep disorder of unknown origin. was the Dr litter diagnosis for me

[oblique mortar]

yeah i have tried everything sleep just comes in small doses when brian just finally shits bed for day.

[twilit shadow]

racing mind, know it well

[oblique mortar]

But the files on Makers were fomr the 19th so Ill check back later for updated ones becasue it all makes sense now

its beer o'clock here in Knoxville anyway!

We need an interactive map so we can see where everyone is cause im sure im the only one in TN doing this!

[round sundial]

Its way past any healthy time where I am, too.
I pulled forward the Git and checked MW - brackets should be up. Will be expanding the readme soon. Thanks for being the early adopter here @oblique mortar ! GNite y'all

[oblique mortar]

Thanks Boss!

[torpid plume]

@round sundial One question: now the display is uplifted, won't this part block the top edge?
Update: from OH1A1-23_MOD_B - HUD PANEL AFT SUPPORT

[oblique mortar]

@torpid plume No Brackets come in under that

It all looks amazing though!

And its official everyone building this project is crazy!

[torpid plume]

I mean this (the actual display top edge)
I must be confusing myself - getting up too early 🙂

[torpid plume]

It could be just a problem of my non-ww displays. Or perhaps I should remove the HUD aft support.

[torpid plume]

@round sundial @oblique mortar Like shown in the above image, I had to remove the OH1A1-23_MOD_B - HUD PANEL AFT SUPPORT to fit the display.

[oblique mortar]

Yeah I did as well. Still looks good though

[round sundial]

@torpid plume @oblique mortar
Issue confirmed - I did remove the HUD panel aft support a while ago because of the lid. We don't need it, so removing it is fine. For completeness, I have now uploaded a lid-free HUD panel aft support to MW and the repo, just in case anyone wants to have it. But I have yet to print it myself and test it.

[oblique mortar]

@round sundial Did you find that you needed to add the 5V USB ti power up the displays?

[round sundial]

I recommend to use a thin long screw here to reduce the flexion of the face plate.

[round sundial]

No I dont use that

My displays are all powered by the dedicated hub though.

[oblique mortar]

I had a screen say winwing for a second than went off

right now there is nothung else on these hubs, I can see 2 displays rn

[round sundial]

Try playing around with different ports on your hub. I had the same. When I unplugged my wireless mouse dongle, it suddenly worked. Completely random....

Also, they say that the Winwing-supplied cables are not the best. (ED forums) Try replacing with shielded high quality cables by Anker / Ugreen etc

[oblique mortar]

ok looks like i have some testing to do

ALso cant see the UFC and hud... I wonder if its the hubs themselves. might need to spend the money and get a good one'

[round sundial]

Mine is a 12V hub which I supply directly from the PSU breakout board. Was 90 EUR.

[oblique mortar]

Can't see this one in app but it is showing my screen...

Looks like there is issue with USB A to A data cable from WW. When i plug it into a hub the hub turns off

[twilit shadow]

anything at other end of the cable or is this just the cable?

[oblique mortar]

its just the cable. I switched to a different hub and got a notification of a surge.

I have unplugged it and reattached it and didnt get error again. It appears its just the WW cables. Im testing everything now. I had to take it all apart first.

[twilit shadow]

defineately could be a defective cable, rare but it does happen

[oblique mortar]

Well it seems to be an issue with WW supplied cables from what @round sundial mentioned and I have found online at this point.

The displays were a second issue but I have fixed those by getting display app from Displaylinks web site.

[twilit shadow]

the trigger driver? i hate that thing LOL

but it works

[oblique mortar]

Displays work. trying to isolate the data cables that arent working

[oblique mortar]

Just to update everyone the issue is a bad usb c port on back of UFC... Now fighting with WW as they want me to pay to replace a part that is 2.5 weeks old and was connected for first time today!

[twilit shadow]

hold them to #4 on thier return policy

you ahve to pay shipping to them, and them if they determine its not a manufacturing issue they will repair/replace at no charge. they pay return shipping.

[oblique mortar]

Oh its a manufacturer issue. They finally caved and said they are sending me a new one. Bit I won't believe it until it's in my hands.

[twilit shadow]

totally would feel the same way.

i've not had a return issue with them but did have a hard time troubleshooting drift in my libre stick base. i think allot is the language issues
turned out a litteral loose screw, go figure

[oblique mortar]

Check my post in electrical. Have already cluttered up this thread too much!

[jovial fractal]

WW support is awful...

[fading thistle]

WW cables are terrible

[round sundial]

I built a new LIP face plate.

• It solves the issue https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/issues/1057 reported by @dire trail
• It provides a "mounting wall" for the RUDDER PEDAL ADJUST lever, such that the face plate, the lever, the microswitches and the springs become one assembly - removing the risk to damage the lever (happened all the time for me) during maintenance
• RUDDER PEDAL ADJUST lever now anchored from both sides, reducing wiggle
• Heat sink brackets, such that the whole face plate can be removed from the front
• drop-in replacement, compatible with current structure

Hope to be able to contribute it. Not so easy. Anyways, printing now, will see on the weekend how this turns out.

[round sundial]

WE project

Integrating my PC into the UIP.

I did the design when I had a 4070. Now I upgraded to a 5080. Thanks to the PC being on a "drawer", it still works.

As usual, the stuff I build for myself is the Beta version and I had to do quite some jigsaw swings. But other than that quite happy so far. UIP is heavy now

Ventilation: Graphics card and the two fans supply overpressure to the middle of the UIP. Exhaust via the AIO fans to the top.

Still need to design and build new, vented glareshields

[livid shard]

amazing project

[vapid halo]

what do you think of making the UIP longer so it occupies more of the LIP top surface

that could easily fit a PC

I see that sticking out of the back and OH parts wouldn't fit either here but this wouldn't apply to your situation anyways... just a thought

[round sundial]

Thanks! Yes I see multiple options:

• Increase UIP length
• use riser cable and place GPU behind left DDI
• create encasing for the part that sticks out

I went for the last option. Will post results when I have them. This GPU growth must have an end one day anyway

[oblique mortar]

That's really a great idea. Keeps everything off the floor and easily accessible! Looks like ill be working this mod into my todo list!

[round sundial]

Final PC housing. I call it "the sarcophaghus"

[torpid plume]

It’s a gorgeous PC!

[slow palm]

I really like the idea of integrating the PC, this is now the second build I've seen do it. Makes me think about trying it myself

[twilit shadow]

i'm still not clear how your handle heat. once the glareshield covers are on or are you not putting them on

[round sundial]

Re-manufacturing with honeycomb intake grods left and right and honeycomb exhaust on top

[void wadi]

Would a pc fit in the rear assembly behind the seat? This is a cool concept!

[tender thorn]

is it thatt instead of 0.75 its 18mm and .25 is 6 mm?

where is the last full download?

i cant find it

[torpid plume]

https://github.com/eHanseJoerg/OpenHornet/tree/WW-Mod-V3/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii

[round sundial]

Winwing integration see link above. However, my recent PC integration is not published yet and not sure if I will publish it.

[tender thorn]

the message above for link?

[round sundial]

What ash wrote

[warped nebula]

Is it normal because im too have that problem

[twilit shadow]

you do have to remember the WW MIP (DDI/AMPCD/UFC/HUD) are not accurate in scale so fit issues and adjustments will have to happen
@round sundial ihas done a amazing job but just due to WW itself it won't be perfect

[vapid halo]

Chernobyl reference?

[round sundial]

Yess 🙂

[round sundial]

Yes, it is normal, as described in the Readme. You need to do a "tactical revision" and shorten the outer longerons. Also, you need to adapt the glareshield to accomodate the corners of the MFDs that are sticking out.

An alternative that you can try is to remove the displays from their cases. It is the cases that are bulky, not the displays. but then you need to redesign the face plate for mounting holes. And warranty is void for sure.

[ocean nexus]

ulukaii

[oblique mortar]

I wouldn't mind testing this file. Im about to start setting up the Rudder pedal adjustment switches and like the asoects of your design

[round sundial]

Whats your timeline? i just printed the part and was about to integrate it by weekend. Tweak what needs to be tweaked, then you could benefit from one iteration already and happy to get your feedback

the idea is to habe this as a drop-in replacement, so no changes required to any other parts (except, shorter screws)

[oblique mortar]

@round sundial Im planning on starting it this weekend also so would be print it starting today

[subtle wolf]

Just a small observation… my WW ddi usb cables were just a tad too big to fit through the holes in the lower ddi supports. Nothing that a dremel cant fix.

And again…million thanks for the mod files!

[oblique mortar]

Mine fit just had to get the right orientation. Maybe they updated cable design? Never know with WW!

[round sundial]

OK then I can upload the fila as-is here in 2-3 hrs when home

[round sundial]

Width or length? By how many millimeters?

[subtle wolf]

Length, about 2mm. Sorry, I cant take picture or measure as I've assembled the thing allready

[round sundial]

@oblique mortar

[oblique mortar]

@round sundial Do you have the files for the Super Taurus integration? I just picked up a used one from member and unfortunately the mounting brackets snapped in transit. Figured i would ask before searching

Also do i need to modify anyhting up top on the rails inorder to use them?

[round sundial]

Congrats 🙂 let me check

[livid shard]

@round sundial may you print and sale 3d Parts for people who don't own 3d printer ?

[vapid halo]

Look for fablabs or makerspaces in your area

[round sundial]

no

[sand trail]

PCBWays will do that for you.

[round sundial]

Build update.
Skin attached, needles moving. I now call my pit complete.

🥳🥳🥳🥳

Three Remarks...

1. I had my carefully gray painted skin direct printed at a local shop for advertising equipment, unfortunately their intern applied everything to the black backside and also forogt some SVG objects... 🙄... while this has a unique of aesthetic, I will likely have that redone in grey.

2. The HYD gauge and the BATT gauge needles do a power on "Im alive" show and the BATT gauge also does zeroizing at power up but I think I do not need that. Also, switched to AccelStepper and very happy with it @twilit shadow

3. Maximum acceptable number of cables exiting the pit is 1.

Whats next ...
RAD ALT will be a christmas present to myself and SBY gauges are very optional for me.

Two years of building ... what a steep learning curve. Maybe I can share some learnings.

Final remark, this is what a "shorter version" looks like. I removed the complete part behind the seat. Otherwise it wouldn't have fit into my room

[craggy drift]

How did you opt to secure the seat since its CG is so far back?

[round sundial]

I have the dogfight dynamics seat which is a bit lighter than the OH seat. Also, the picture is a bit of a wider angle so it doesn't look that bad in reality. It is mounted on a standard car seat rail, making it adjustable forward-aft. Makes ingress/egress very easy. My 280 pounds friend tested it and the seat/bottom plate / five casters combo survived, so I think this will be alright 🙂

Also, to save my wife's sleep, the seat rail is decoupled from the frame with industrial dampers, such that the bass shaker is the only entity kicking my butt

[craggy drift]

Haha, I thought it looked a little funny and didn't zoom in on it til you said something.

[round sundial]

And also, clamps! Or however this is called correctly. I use a total 7 clamps to firmly connect LIP, LC, RC and seat plate to each other. They have a force of up to 200 pounds. NOTHING moves, NO wood sounds. Can only recommend.

[craggy drift]

Are the skins held magnetically for ease of install/removal? The clamps and mag held skins would make maintenance access a breeze. (I might have missed it if you said so.)

[round sundial]

Yes, skin is held magnetically with magnet band and metal band. Skin can be removed in 5 seconds. Full access to all Arduinos. Removing the LC, thanks to the clamps, is done in maybe five minutes. Open three clamps, disconnect bulkhead cables, and then remove the three screws at the inner ALU plates (I call them the sendcutsend plates) .

Over the course of the build, I must have removed and reattached LC and RC about 15 times each. So for me, maintanability and practicality were superimportant

( I have a VERY iterative style of building things)

[civic garnet]

Fantastic effort. Time to swap laser cutting panels for laser guiding weapons.

[dusty burrow]

Ok ok so, this is where I am at with my oh build. I also have the winwing MIP and I a have lots of questions for you

To build the center for my MIP do I still use the cad from OH?

Ok i think I found the file for the OH with modification for winwing MIP

Huh?

[round sundial]

You use plywood. Very good choice!

[dusty burrow]

Yes it’s called Russian merisier

[round sundial]

Yes, the Winwing MIP mod in ghe OH mods folder is what you are looking for

[dusty burrow]

Ok I will look for that !

[round sundial]

Same as baltic birch Inthink. We just stopped calling it russian due to this thing thats going on

[dusty burrow]

Maybe !

Brb

[dusty burrow]

ok i am trying to find that folder ... cant find it

[torpid plume]

https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/tree/develop/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii

[dusty burrow]

ok thank you, i am trying to figure out how to download them now

can i open a step file with fusion 360?

[dusty burrow]

yes i can, sorry for asking

[dire trail]

Looks fantastic! What stick base and extension are you use ? WinWing?

[dusty burrow]

Me?

[dusty burrow]

For now I am trying to get the CAD for the LIP. And I have this error message

Do you know if you can help me? It would be so much appreciated

[jovial fractal]

That kind of questions really shouldn't be part of Ulukaii build log. It's basically "how to use the software"...

(by the way this link is old. There is the v3 on Ulukaii's fork of the repo)

[dusty burrow]

Oh yes okay. I was just trying to ask for help at many places to have an answer. I will look when I get home from work in about 5 hours

[jovial fractal]

Yeah that's basically the worst approach to take. We have dedicated channels to ask for help on dedicated subjects. Please respect that, so everyone can find the help at the correct location

[dusty burrow]

Understood ! 🙂 Thanks

[jovial fractal]

I was going to print the new pieces for the v3, but quick question.... Is is possible to print OH2A1-17-MOD-A in several parts? Any advice about how to cut it best? This looks too big to be cut on the 255x255 grid of a P1S.

Edit. Yes, 277 or so in the height. Is it required to be that long? Would it work if we stop a bit below 255 mm?

[jovial fractal]

In the "other random feedbacks that don't really matter but I say it anyway" category, I also have:

• FDM_OH2A1-17-MOD-[A->G] > I'm not sure why the numbering is associated with OH2A1-17. This piece in the original is the Rib O. It would make sense to name that FMD_OH2WW-[01->07] (or MOD A->G if MOD is important, I don't remember the correct nomenclature), as this doesn't exist in the original model.
• It's MOD-A or MOD_A in the filenames

Or maybe OH2A3A1-10 (AMPCD - CRS-HDG BASE SUPPORT)?

[torpid plume]

is that the storage space? I cut it directly in bambu studio as I don’t need it to place a keyboard.

[jovial fractal]

this one

[torpid plume]

yeah I rotated so the faceplate is downside and cut most of the drawer

[jovial fractal]

OK. Thanks!

[oblique mortar]

I printed in 2 pieces. Used the function within Bambu Studio

[round sundial]

And with dovetail. Let me know how useful you find our storage bin 🙂

Thanks for the superdetailed feedback @jovial fractal ! Currently on mobile .... will look into it when at F360

[torpid plume]

won't let you know I have some peanuts there lol 🙂

[twilit shadow]

MODs are created by users not by OH, they do their best to use similar naming but the only requirement I believe we have is MOD is part of the name oh and in the mod folder

[jovial fractal]

Oh yeah. It's just that it makes sense to name the replacement part with the same name than the original part name with MOD, or with a new name. Or at least it does to me.

Thanks guys. I don't have the MIP assembled yet, but it's planned for this weekend. I probably will be missing screws so I don't think it will be fully done by this time, but I'll try to do as much as possible..

[chilly violet]

What files did you use to cut or i would send and pay someone to cut/cnc the housing or the longerons, bulkhead etc? I just see SVG files in the upper instrument panel folder. what files do i send a company that will have all the predrilled holes information etc. I just want whats in the image shown minus the L/R side switch housings.

[slow palm]

Did you read the start here channel and the FAQ? The information is all there. The svg files are all contained in their respective folder. If you need it in a different format, you'll have to get that from the fusion model.

[chilly violet]

plus is there no way to fix the poking of the glare shield by the mip WW screen?

[ionic bough]

I had to convert svg to dfx for my cnc shop to cut the mdf for me, I found an app that could batch convert files that did the job. Not at my pc just now but can post the link to the app when I am, they charged something like £10 for 1000 conversions which is way more than enough

[chilly violet]

Can't wait for the link. How does talking to a local CNC shop work? Do I tell them anything specific or the files have all the info? How much do you think in us dollars it will cost to just make the mdf for the. dash and the lower center panels uprights? Do they supply the mdf?

Where is "nicks" Winwing LCD Panel Mod?

[torpid plume]

They are questions only a specific local shop can ever answer 🤣

[chilly violet]

whats the average fee you think?

[torpid plume]

Sorry not sure I’m located in Japan and here it’s just too expensive.

(So I cut myself with a jigsaw…)

[ionic bough]

here,s the linkhttps://cloudconvert.com/svg-to-dxf

I'm in UK and my local cnc shop supplied and cut the UIP and LIP for around £250 plus vat

[chilly violet]

Any way to get rid of the edges of the screens on this so the visor fit perfect? Plus what material did you use for your visor, why was it punctured on the right side? plus, what material do you recommend.

[ionic bough]

I at this stage too and intend to just 3d print a little cover for that blemish

[chilly violet]

blemish?

[ionic bough]

The unsightly cutout for the Winwing display

[oblique mortar]

I took my display apart to see if I could knock edge off and unfortunately you cant as the display extends almost entirely to the corner. Think those of us using the mod will just have to live with the cut outs.

Im also interested in what material he used. I printed a set after I cut into 3 and im not sure i will be able to smooth out. Considered buying abs and heating it(?) And using printed version to mold it on.

[craggy drift]

OH Spec for the glareshields is ABS.

[chilly violet]

I’m referring to the top corner ones not the side cut outs

[oblique mortar]

I know. the ones you have in pic above

[chilly violet]

There’s no way around this?

[oblique mortar]

The only way I can see is to modify face plate and rear plate to be taller. which would also require modifications to the inner structural parts where the Glare shield attaches.

[chilly violet]

So this issue wasn’t fixed in version three?

[oblique mortar]

no version 3 made changes to ampcd and its mounting. But @round sundial Can better answer those issues as he is the designer of the modifications.

[chilly violet]

does the mdf thickness of upper instreument panel have to be 3/4" (19.05mm) ?

[chilly violet]

i converted mine for free here https://cloudconvert.com/ seemed to work

[chilly violet]

how is your build coming along ?

[jovial fractal]

Guys, please, try to keep it on the topic. That's Ulukaii's build log.

[chilly violet]

i think if i could get a step file with the spot removed that perfectly lines up with the mip lcd panels that poke out beyond the dash plate i could add some custom mods with rubber then do a vinyl wrap that makes it look epic kinda like this in the image

[ionic bough]

Yes this is uluakii,s build not ours keep it to his and his mods

[chilly violet]

I figured it all out and have prepped all the files I need.

[civic garnet]

This one?
It may be beneficial to move conversations not related to Ulukaii’s buildlog to another server. Potentially your own log or general.

[chilly violet]

Oh I’m sorry I thought this would be mentioned cause this is part of a custom box etc

I meant on ulukaiis build this was modded was it not?

[round sundial]

The box is modded but the cover is not. It could be reasonable to add the heat inserts to the BOM, even though technically no diff to original OH.

[chilly violet]

I did see that on makerworld I was just wondering what size and what screws you would recommend

[round sundial]

See here:
#1278055599082442907 message

[lunar knoll]

1 M5 heat insert, to fasten the HUD BIT box (FDM_OH1A8A4-10) to the UFC box cover (OH1WW-02)

for this insert, does it go on the top or bottom of the printed part?

[round sundial]

Bottom part

[jovial fractal]

Does it matter?

[round sundial]

Don't know tbh but I intended it this way and nevery tried it another way 🙂

[lunar knoll]

I'm working on an aluminum version of this panel, just so I know what I'm working with, what are these dimples for?

[chilly violet]

Those are the glareshield mount holes

[lunar knoll]

@round sundial confirmed that this issue reintroduced itself, it's fixed in V2 but in V3 it's back -

V3 - https://github.com/eHanseJoerg/OpenHornet/blob/WW-Mod-V3/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii/V3/ACRL_OH1A1-12_MOD_A - UPPER INSTRUMENT PANEL FACE.step

V2 - https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/blob/develop/release/OHM_Modifications/OH1 - Winwing MIP Integration by Ulukaii/V2/ACRL_OH1A1-12_MOD_A - UPPER INSTRUMENT PANEL FACE.step

[lunar knoll]

similarly, is there supposed to be a hole w/countersink here in the step file?

[round sundial]

Hi bob! They are leftovers from the glareshield mount hols. But there are no glareshield mounts at that position. So you can remove them. I will remove them in an upcoming revision. Thanks for pointing it out

[lunar knoll]

thanks boss, was going to have this panel sent off to SendCutSend and have it made from powder coated aluminum and their tools were turning the dimples into holes so I just whacked 'em in fusion 🙂

any feedback on my post above regarding the missing hole regression?

[jovial fractal]

I'm going to start assembling this weekend... Just double checking:

• The heat inserts for LIP are all M4?
• The heat inserts for the UIP are all M5?

I'm going through all your pictures on makerworld to figure out where everything goes. It'll be probably easier when I actually start doing the work. But right now I'm quite confused about how to assemble everything

[round sundial]

M4 or 8-32
On the UIP, M5 for the statically stressed elements
On the UIP HUD BIT box, you'll find that 6-32 (M3.5ish) are required as well (no change to standard OH)

[round sundial]

If you can describe what confuses you I can try to explain

[jovial fractal]

3.5? The COTS says M3?

[jovial fractal]

I'm not sure how to start. I guess I'll start with adding the inserts and start from there.

[round sundial]

I found 6-35 is closer to 3.5 rather than 3mm. Which COTS by the way, OH is inches only

Tip. Start with the UFC mount. Insert the heat inserts and then by attach it to the WW UFC.

[jovial fractal]

Sorry, didn't reply... I needed time to digest the last info and I didn't work on it during the week. I think I got it now, thanks.

However, for the left/right DDIs, do I understand correctly: I need to remove these screws, put the face plate in the middle, and screw it back all together?

[oblique mortar]

@jovial fractal yes thats correct

Longer bolts were in the needed parts list

[jovial fractal]

Ok thanks. Sorry I'm so confused with this process. It's a bit clearer when trying to align holes, but it means trying instead of planning and it's never super clear where the inserts should be...

I never really get if it's me doing things wrong or just I'm missing a step. I usually look at the fusion file to figure it out, but in that case I can't, so...

[oblique mortar]

While you have it apart ypu can also remove the upper chrome screws and paint everything black.

[jovial fractal]

No paint available for me at the moment... So silver it will stay!

[jovial fractal]

Small feedback on OH2A1-17-E: it could get a bit more tolerance in the shape.
I think my heat inserts are not perfectly aligned and that messes things up a bit more than it should

[jovial fractal]

Another integration question! So I've made the DDIs are I'm trying to cut the longerons. Works fine on the side, but it still doesn't fit because of the longeron in the middle (last picture).
Should we cut that one as well? Or do I do something wrong ?
(the black plastic is because this is printed in 12mm instead of 18mm, so i "fixed" it)

[jovial fractal]

Oh well. I didn't in the end and... The answer is yes.

[chilly violet]

I did notice my faceplate doesnt have the counter sunk screw hole that you highlighted in red. Guess ill have to drill it myself.

[lunar knoll]

The material here is going to be too thin. Don’t drill it. The longeron is going to be mostly hogged out

[chilly violet]

Are you saying don’t drill into the aluminum plate that I bought because I can just so I can screw it onto the longeron

[lunar knoll]

Yes - don’t drill it out. The wood isn’t going to have enough material to drill into

[round sundial]

Hi bob and @chilly violet

The countersunk hole is a recent addition to the face plate. It is an optional / additional mount point that you can use with an extra long wood screw, but you'd need to fully cut away the middle part, otherwise it is too thin, just like @lunar knoll says. See screenshot for the idea.

I used a relatively long and thin wood screw such that I dont affect the display case. I might need to position the countersunk holes as far outside as possible to make them work.

The idea is to have an iumproved fastening on the outside as I want this to have 0.0 flex!

[jovial fractal]

Speaking of improving the fastening, I think it could be good to have a few more screws for the UFC section of the face plate. More specifically, modifying OH1A1-18 and -28 to have one or two more inserters, so it can be screwed with 4 screws instead of 2 (see my finger, in the next picture).

It would help to fasten the UFC part of the face plate from the top, currently it's only fasten from the bottom, but if you're like me and use a 3D printed face plate that you cut in several pieces, well, the top of the UFC part isn't really well hold.

[round sundial]

Thanks for the idea @jovial fractal ! Yes I could consider that. It is, however, a little bit a homegrown problem, as you are 3D printing a part that should be cut from a solid plate, right 😉

[jovial fractal]

Yep, totally agree with that. And with a slightly bigger printer that wouldn't be an issue either

Maybe that could be an improvement for the default model, but as your face plate is modified...

Ah nevermind, this part of the faceplate doesn't exist in the original file.

[torpid plume]

I printed the faceplate as two parts. View from top:

please excuse my hand drawing in bed 🙈

[jovial fractal]

I had to cut it in 3 to make it fit the P1S

[torpid plume]

anyway this shape with a screw hole going through both parts makes it more sturdy.

[jovial fractal]

To be fair, my 3 part isn't really a problem so far. It's mainly that I just though that it could be a nice addition, as the face plate is modified anyway.

[torpid plume]

That’s great advice

[sweet marten]

I'm in the process of making my own faceplate and (at this point) I'm planning on rotating the WinWing displays sideways (landscape). They won't mount together with the MFD as designed, so I need to fashion another way of mounting it all. But it does remove that upper corner protrusion. ( adds a couple along the bottom though).

[chilly violet]

Let me know if you get that working

[lunar knoll]

honestly this might be a decent opportunity to disassemble one of the winwing MFDs to see if we can model a custom housing to have the screen rotated 90 degrees and heat set inserts pressed in along the bezel to match up with the button panel's holes
would void the warranty but iirc they're only good for a year anyway

[sweet marten]

I took one of mine apart to try that as a possibility. This is the area:

[chilly violet]

I would love for this to work out because I have printed my visors already and I don’t wanna drill a hole in them as they cost $300

I haven’t assembled anything yet, so I’ll be on the lookout for any modifications. I can add to use the screens that way.

[chilly violet]

Any word on if this mod could be used for version three face plate

[sweet marten]

I'm not the author so I couldn't speak to that. I'm sorta making my own (here for the everyone's inspirations and problem solving). I would imagine it would require some additional holes for mounting the screen this way - though metal can be drilled, so may be an easy tweak.

If I did end up doing this, I'd probably mount the display as centered as possible. So I don't have to ask Windows 11 to remember this one is rotated this way, that way is rotated the other way. Alternatively, If you do mount it vertically, you can move it down as far as possible behind the MFD; it does minimize the top corner a lot over the normal way - and this would also mean all 3 screens are the same orientation.

[lunar knoll]

given the size i think rotating would be the better option...either way you're unable to use the winwing software for display management but helios solves for that...and you have much better options for mounting if you do it sideways

tolerances between the edges of the screen and the bottom of the UIP and the glare shields don't really leave any room for structure

[sweet marten]

Agreed. Though I realized sideways doesn't work for the "AMPCD" 3rd Winwing MFD. No room for sideways in that one.

[west minnow]

winwing warranty may as well be written on cow turds i wouldnt trust it anyways. winwing items are made to be serviced at home

honestly tho if youre going that way, buy your own touch capable screens for cheap and slap em behind the winwing buttons

[torpid plume]

I did that

[west minnow]

excellent choic3

[sweet marten]

Yeah, I've been awaiting a few quotes for some square LCD screens. @torpid plume - have a link of where you sourced yours?

[torpid plume]

I got this cheap one but as other Ali really hard to track and be sure about the quality

Note this one doesn’t seem to have stock now.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_c44jgvGf

Also note the one I got doesn’t use micro usb but jacket to power

[sweet marten]

That place drives me nuts. It’s one of the reasons I soooooo prefer plug and play type displays. I have no idea what I want or need or what to ask for. I use a 10” display for all my instrument gauges that was from Amazon and ready to go and just works. I never know what to order from these Chinese companies.

[torpid plume]

square displays are too rare and expensive unfortunately

[twilit shadow]

Not rarely and we’ve got a source of them for the DDI‘s AMPCD that we can use what’s expensive is the bloody HDMI driver board

I think the displays were only like $20 each, but the driver boards are like another 50

[lunar knoll]

AMPCD doesn’t need to be changed. Works perfectly as is imo

[hot thicket]

Because of the rarity pf them?

[hot thicket]

Do you have a link to the square displays by any chance?

[twilit shadow]

no, they actually sell them as a dev tool not commercial and dev tools always cost more from manufactures

[hot thicket]

right

ok

[round sundial]

Build update - Radar Altimeter working! Only thing left is to calibrate the nonlinear-scale to the DCS BIOS output. Ideas welcome 🙂

[torpid plume]

I remember the zero position is a bit more left, under the top left cover.
We use this range map for the 'digital display' mod but I haven't actually checked to see if it matches DCS yet:

lv_img_set_angle(img_radarAltNeedle, map(lastMessage.altPtr, 3450, 65530, 0, 3200));

[round sundial]

DCS value of 65535 corresponds to 3200 feet?

[torpid plume]

Ah I don't know if 65530 here is by mistake or experience but I guess that part is minor.
The left part <=3450 -> 0 is more important.

Let me start a mission to see how it matches (if not then I have a bug ticket for myself)

The 3450 part will mark the <0 position to around here.

and 3200 is not feet, that's the rotation angle (320 degree)

@round sundial tried and it seems mine has about 5 degree off. So close enough.
It seems DCS is NOT feeding us nonlinear-scale data for this gauge. It's almost linear mapping to the rotation.

[round sundial]

That helps! Especially the part with the zero position veibg further left. Will tey out tonirrow

[thin glade]

this part, the rear one, is from oh build right?

[round sundial]

Another build update.

I redesigned the LIP ECM face plate such that

1. the PCB now fits into the panel (fixes https://github.com/jrsteensen/OpenHornet/issues/1057 reported by @dire trail )
2. the panel and the rudder pedal adjust lever are self-sustained
3. mount points on the side now using heat inserts instead of nuts

2+3 make the panel self-sustaining and easier to remove. Also avoids nuts falling into the abyss all the time As a side effect, the rudder pedal adjust lever is much more sturdy now. It is a drop-in replacement.

@craggy drift this fixes #1057 and can be contributed to the OH build. Happy to go through a design review. You'd need to replace a few nuts with heat inserts, thats it

[dusty burrow]

Hi mate, i am trying to get the mods for fusion360 in the OH folder now and i cant find it. I did try my best to find it by myself but with no results

in the oh-user-mods

[craggy drift]

#oh-user-mods . Please dont take over his build channel for mod support. 😁

[dusty burrow]

ahah i wont, i am just confuse because in the ⁠oh-user-mods in dont see any links for what i am looking for. It's like the channel is recent.

[slow palm]

It is. Ask him in there.

[chilly violet]

Mine does the same its a tight fit and the sides dont line up flush with the edge of the screen. i wish it was remodded" to wrap around the screen.

[jovial fractal]

I think it's more a us problem than the model. If I remember well, it looks fairly perfect on Ulukaii's pictures.

It really looks like tolerances...

[chilly violet]

this what you have here is my goal as of now.

[round sundial]

Upgrading my IFEI to ESP-32 !

While the standard OH-IFEI works, the HDMI-based implementation as an extra screen breaks (for a reason that only ED can explain) the IntegrityCheck IC. That means either enjoying IFEI or enjoying multiplayer.

However, thanks to @heady berry , @torpid plume , @jovial fractal @oblique mortar @ionic bough and others that may have contributed in the shadows, the IFEI is available as an ESP-32, DCS-Bios based implementation.

That means that not pixels are sent to the IFEI, but the actual engine data and the ESP-32 takes care of the rendering. See #1448727663228223508 .

I also implemented an IFEI frame that places the IFEI directly underneath the bezel, and I used I think it was @dire trail mask to create a 3D-printable mask.

I can just say that this mod is SOOOOO cool. It really improves QOL for the IFEI. Next steps: place the digits pixel-perfect with the mask and work with Ash to implement the brightness control.

[jovial fractal]

Now I'm so annoyed that my screen doesn't perfectly fit into the footprint...

[mystic shell]

That is cool, does it replicate the brightness control, and green lettering when the pit is in night / nvg mode?

[round sundial]

Alignment pixel-perfect now!

[west minnow]

dang very nice

[round sundial]

Only @torpid plume knows about NVG :-). But what I do know is that I had to solder the PWM pad and connect it to GPIO such that screen brightness control will be possible

Looking at the code, it seems night mode is available:

/################## Light Modes ##################

void onCockkpitLightModeSwChange(unsigned int newValue) {
if (newValue != 0) {
colormode = 13;
ifei_color = color_NIGHT;
}
if (newValue == 0) {
colormode = 0;
ifei_color = color_day;
}

for ( int i = 0; i < 24; i++ ){
    if ( i == NOZL ){
      display_elements[NOZL].sprite = &NOZL_IMAGE[atoi(display_elements[NOZL].value) + colormode];
      if (NOZL_pointer_visible) display_elements[NOZL].sprite->pushSprite(&tft,display_elements[NOZL].pos_x,display_elements[NOZL].pos_y,0x000000U);
      if (NOZL_scale_visible)   NOZL_IMAGE[12 + colormode].pushSprite(&tft,display_elements[NOZL].pos_x,display_elements[NOZL].pos_y,0x000000U);
      if (NOZL_numbers_visible) NOZL_IMAGE[11 + colormode].pushSprite(&tft,display_elements[NOZL].pos_x,display_elements[NOZL].pos_y,0x000000U);
    }else if (i == NOZR ){
      display_elements[NOZR].sprite = &NOZR_IMAGE[atoi(display_elements[NOZR].value) + colormode];
      if (NOZR_pointer_visible) display_elements[NOZR].sprite->pushSprite(&tft,display_elements[NOZR].pos_x,display_elements[NOZR].pos_y,0x000000U);
      if (NOZR_scale_visible)   NOZR_IMAGE[12 + colormode].pushSprite(&tft,display_elements[NOZR].pos_x,display_elements[NOZR].pos_y,0x000000U);
      if (NOZR_numbers_visible) NOZR_IMAGE[11 + colormode].pushSprite(&tft,display_elements[NOZR].pos_x,display_elements[NOZR].pos_y,0x000000U);
    }else{
      update_element(i);
    }
}
update_Clock(CLOCKU);
update_Clock(CLOCKL);

...

[mystic shell]

Cool

[twilit shadow]

Does that count for the fact that you can adjust that brightness or is it only just on or off with Nvg

[round sundial]

dont know yet, still needs testing

[torpid plume]

I’m getting up soon!
To answer that question: if we fix the brightness issue - I saw @round sundial has already soldered and connected the backlight test pad to the RS484 data pin which should be gpio pin 16 - it will just behave as expected:

• night mode: green and changes with the IFEI brightness knob
• other modes: white and not adjustable

[round sundial]

BUILD UPDATE

While my UIP is removed from the pit anyway, I took the opportunity to improve on the Winwing Mod. Improved rigidity.... see #oh-user-mods for details

[chilly violet]

are you still working on your build?

[round sundial]

Newest addition to the pit: ejection seat handle. Made out of an old shower tube, PVC isolation tape and a thingiverse model that fits snugly around the Orion 2 base but had to be modified heavily for a sturdy quality and feel. I now have to pull quite strong for a CLONK and off we go

[west minnow]

god that looks clean in there

[vapid halo]

Wow, do you think one could use a gardena hose?

[round sundial]

wyes but will be a bit thick

[twilit shadow]

i was looking at a 6ft 12AWG yellow extension cord, easy to work with

[frank beacon]

Is it possible to get your altered print files?

[round sundial]

yes plz remind me next week

its on the other computer

[frank beacon]

OK - I’m printing the original version now, but if I’m not pleased with the result I will contact you.

[round sundial]

was too wobbly for me. As you can see in the picture I modified the top plate and extended the channel in which the rods are moving, that makes them held in place firmly. Also plz make sure to order a few extra of these flanged sleeve bearings (total of 6)

[frank beacon]

Yes, I expected this by looking at the files so I modified the part that holds the handle.

[round sundial]

Just in time: CNCed standby instrument covers arrived today. Prime, paint, fly

Also replaced the clear acrylic covers with real watch glass.

[chilly violet]

Thanks for this!

[chilly violet]

where in the OH file folder do I find the Rudder Level/switch electronic and part information on the actual switch springs and parts?

[round sundial]

Switch electronic part no: I think you can find it on the Interconnect.

[sacred forge]

Hi everyone. Quick question: I’m trying to figure out exactly what I need to print: https://makerworld.com/en/models/650441-v4-openhornet-mod-for-winwing-integration?from=search#profileId-2945804. Are all required parts included in this V4 upload, or do I still need to download/print some parts from V3? There are 19 STL files in the V4 package, but V3 had additional parts that no longer seem to be included here. I’m not sure if those parts were removed because they are no longer needed, or if I’m missing something. What am I missing?

[west minnow]

hey a better place for this would be #oh-user-mods

[craggy drift]

I'm sure @round sundial will be along at some point to answer your question about his mod. 🙂

[lime fulcrum]

hi, I don't know much English so sorry. I would like to ask you if you could send me the stl file of the frame mask to IFEI for 3D printing. and what do I need to connect the monitor so that it displays all the values ​​like yours. For example, sketch etc. Thank you very much in advance

[round sundial]

Hi @sacred forge --> contrinuing in #oh-user-mods

[round sundial]

Hi I think it is integrated in @torpid plume 's repository you can also check here #1448727663228223508

[lime fulcrum]

I don't understand but thank you.

[jovial fractal]

You are not on the correct channel for this question. You must check the thread #1448727663228223508 . However there are no specific instructions yet, you must browse through Ash repository (see the first post) and read the instructions. That might be challenging if you don't understand English.

We are currently working on releasing that as a mod that includes all instructions. You may want to wait for that if it's easier for you.