#Stick Chair and Stool

1 messages · Page 2 of 1

drifting ether
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The joints are my only real "critique" of the shellac addition, even with a really really thin cut I still got some buildup around them

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it really telegraphs even the slightest bit of fuzz/imperfection I missed

vital kestrel
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Fully seated stretcher dry fit

drifting ether
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looks great so far

drifting ether
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dinged the comb, had to repaint it : (

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starting to get a nice soft sheen on the rest of it, hard to overstate just how much burnishing this is taking compared to a single color

dim mortar
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Burnishing with paper bag or something else?

drifting ether
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mix of things

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paper bag, grey scotchbrite, white scotchbrite

dim mortar
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Is the grey more or less chorus than the white? I don’t think I’ve ever seen it.

drifting ether
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more coarse

weak gale
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Well .. got my arm bow section glued back together...now to figure out how to drill it properly this time!

weak gale
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:\ hrm... something is very off. My holes on the arm bows are all way off, I think I botched the layout... the seat is correct, 3" spacing... I botched the armbow - I saw the varable spacing on the 4.25 and 3.375 but didn't catch the 3.75 between holes 3-4 and 7-8 I guess? Walking it off with dividers nbothing is making sense... I marked it from the template, but then did something else jazz hands and didn't follow my own plans I guess?

The only option, I think, is remake the entire armbow, and drill it out from the underside with the seat as a guide

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hooray for through mortises!

drifting ether
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im confused

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if you drilled the seat mortises using the armbow

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it shouldnt matter how you stepped it off

weak gale
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I have no idea how I got it this far out of whack...like for some reason the seat lines up right, but the holes in the armbow are all over the place.... like I was drunk playing with a drill

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so the spacing on the seat is all even, but on the armbow, it's like I just drilled wherever and ignore the obviously marked points... but they do line up with the marks, which are from the drawings in the book, which I also verified (they're off a little, not enough to matter, not THIS bad)

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ignore the precision, all I car about are the first 2 decimal points, and really only 100ths for rounding the 10ths

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hrm... so the spacing in and of itself is not "right" but it's consistent left to right... and it's not as off as the sticks suggest, which means the spacing is fine, the angles are just whack

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and consistent is what looks right, no one measures things unless you're me... so still can't figure out what I did wrong

drifting ether
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well did you clamp the armbow and drill it then drill the seat through the mortises in the armbow?

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or did you drill these components seperately

weak gale
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yeah... using the jigs and a bit extented

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extender

drifting ether
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then the mortises in the arm might be imperfect or unevenly spaced, but should correspond to the seat fine

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or you were reallllly off center drilling

weak gale
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and that's exactly what they're NOT doing

drifting ether
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even if you rotate the sticks around?

weak gale
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yeah... lemme put the sticks in, you'll see what I'm seeing

drifting ether
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ah I think I see how you got the spacing off, not that it'll matter

weak gale
drifting ether
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did you start from the centerline of the armbow?

weak gale
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Those look good, right?

drifting ether
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or from a mortise

weak gale
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I started from the center line on the top and went down and forward toward the points on the seat

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Should I have been starting towards the outside edge and trying to end my mortises on the center line? Again I think as long as it's consistent it shouldn't matter right?

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If I flip the arm bow upside down and put the sticks in this is what they look like they're just sort of all over the place

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I think part of the issue is that I had my drill and laser setup for the front to back angle but not as much for the side to side angle I was just sort of eyeballing that and then once I was through it was much easier to sort of center it in the hole and hit the middle mark on the seat so the spacing there is much cleaner but the alignment is garbage

drifting ether
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ok and if you twist the sticks around in the mortises, it doesnt get better?

weak gale
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Nope they're nice and straight

drifting ether
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I mean that guy is off center for sure, which is normal

weak gale
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That gang there is drunk, and I think threw the rest off causing the break

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They were on center, the entasis is not well centered

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I don't know what I can do to fix those three short of plugging them

drifting ether
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well, the shoulder is off it looks like the tenon might be a degree off, which is normal and fine

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but it might just be the photo

weak gale
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Probably just the picture, holding them I can feel they are pretty dang straight

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As much as I really wanted to finish this with a clear finish and really show off the cherry I think if I were to paint it I wouldn't worry one bit about plugging these holes and redrilling them

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Also rotating them in the mortises doesn't change their angle

drifting ether
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yea fair enough, im having a hard time coming up with an explanation for how it could have happened short of your bow slipping on the jig or something like that

weak gale
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I think it was just a matter of not paying enough attention on a couple of these holes and getting them at a bad angle to start with and then correcting it in the seat - 1/4-in bit extension rod fits in there just fine, but when you cram the actual stick in there it's just wonky as hell

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I'm ok plugging it, and then drilling back from the underside of the chair, I'm going to make a kind of split plug that will center the bit extension rod, keep it all straight.

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The first few sticks are all close enough they take minimal effort to seat, finger pressure 1/8" at most id say

muted rapids
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@weak gale if you leave the 5th and seventh out, does it still not align? These are under the back rest and you’d get away with redrilling since it’ll be covered by that, right?

weak gale
weak gale
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Laggies and Mentlgen, I present the solution to my problem! The "drilling plugs out from the bottom"-izer mk.2 (mk1 was destroyed in a fit of forgetting what I was making)

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The mortises on the seat are looking good, so this hollow plug will guide the bit extension up through that hole (which is just a fancy term for mortise) and into the soon to be plugged failholes on the armbow

weak gale
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Good news, only one plug needed I think!

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Under the backrest

weak gale
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It works!

vital kestrel
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Comb still needs to be cut down and shaped

burnt owl
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looks nice

weak gale
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Oh man, wedge city up in here ... Deff gonna need them too, to get the sticks to fit ok I had to ease out the mortises more than id really like

drifting ether
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the good news is that they act as a system and the lowbacks arent really asking all that much of the sticks

weak gale
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How many passes would you all do with a scorp before you stop and hone (on cherry fwiw)?

weak gale
drifting ether
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if you want a slightly more complicated version -

I'd be less concerned if I was scorping for the rough removal, then travishing or scraping for the final

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but if the scorp is the only tool you're using, probably a few times per seat

muted rapids
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second coat of green, I may do one more, though I’ll have to make fresh paint.

weak gale
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love the color! I'm trying to decide if I want to go with a similar color to appeal to my wife.... but love the look of cherry

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so...following the Schwarz advice to not beat myself up over the 200 flaws I see ion my seat now that I've saddled it

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the front profile is even, and I think the seat is pretty flat across...but I am not even close to coloring inside the lines on the spindle deck and pls ignore the tearout 😛

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I think when I get it all back together I'll be much happier with it

drifting ether
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its a fine seat really, there are only really two "flaws" I really notice

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and one is still fixable

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the other is really nitpicky

weak gale
drifting ether
weak gale
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pick my nits Z!

weak gale
drifting ether
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  1. the rounding on the edges of the "spindle deck" arent perfectly even

You can fix this one by making a horseshoe template, and routing a very very thin flat along it that "redefines" the spindle deck

weak gale
drifting ether
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It honestly works best AFTER sanding the seat

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I tried it before this time and I ended up knicking the "corner" of it a few times sanding and scraping

weak gale
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yeah, the glueilne... I thought I had it ok, but that one came back to bite me every stroke across it with the scorp

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I probably removed 30% of the seat with 60 grit

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also, the front board... wonky ass grain all over the place... yay cherry

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and pin knots!

drifting ether
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the pin knots are just part of the character of cherry imo,they look fine unless they're like right on the edge of a corner or something

weak gale
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they're just hard to cut through with the scorp

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I love the look personally

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I'm done for the day I think... might make that template if I can find a large enough piece of scrap plywood

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the book talks about it... but what surface am I cutting? The "face" of the slope or stepping down the top?

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I guess...from reading and picture, you eliminate the curve/slope and just have a hard edge?

drifting ether
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either

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yep

vital kestrel
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Getting closer

muted rapids
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the second pic actually looks like it’s further away, but could be perspective

vital kestrel
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Maybe a half step at most, ha

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I am finding chairs very hard to photograph

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The proportions seem to change a lot from one angle to another

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And they often look different in the photo than in real life, sometimes for better and sometimes worse

drifting ether
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chairs are genuinely very hard to photograph

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combine that with how bad i am at photography already and dayum

muted rapids
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Alas, I guess the joke fell short. 🙃

vital kestrel
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Whoosh

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Haha nice, sorry to wreck your joke

muted rapids
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Na, all good, it was as little far fetched.

vital kestrel
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Chair is glued up

burnt owl
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looks very nice

muted rapids
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I'm happy to hear any suggestions on how to fix this where the milk paint peels off a little

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flat milk paint look

drifting ether
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same, had the same issue at two spots, both along ridges

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I just painted over and did a seal coat of shellac, waited a bit and then started burnishing again

weak gale
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Is there a bit of glue residue there?

muted rapids
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I’ve only used hide glue and that shouldn’t be an issues with milk paint; I did use a bit of wood putty, maybe it’s that.

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It got worse and I tried to patch it with stick shellac I made and added some pigment to. That worked, but it’s pretty hard to level it and I scratched store paint off; gonna have to add a few more coats on some spots and hope it will blend in. I need to get more experience with fresh milk paint. Not w m what exactly I did wrong.

eternal mango
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Isnt hide glue under milk paint how you get the crackling effect?

muted rapids
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not that I’m aware of; it’s used to frost glass, that I know

burnt owl
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soon i will be able to get back to my chair, once i finish replacing the carpet on yet another flight of stairs

drifting ether
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it'll do the crackle thing for sure, i think you need a pretty thick layer of the glue though

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TB liquid hide used to have instructions for it

muted rapids
vital kestrel
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First coat

chilly bane
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very nice!

vital kestrel
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I mixed my first batch of paint too thick and it made that coat too heavy

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Started over-ish

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Isn't it beautiful

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Coat 1.5 on, better consistency this time

dim mortar
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FYI, on clearance from Lee valley-

burnt owl
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does that have a lot of extra information?

dim mortar
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No

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It is basically actually a journal with lots of photos and musings

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I went through it a while ago and it has plans for.. 2 or 3 chairs if memory serves?

torpid sorrel
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Any of you guys have experience hollowing seats with an adze? LV has one on special for $50, and at that price it's tempting, even if it's a scary tool

muted rapids
burnt owl
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i have to sharpen my scorp still

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i did my pullshave

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once i finish these dumb stairs i can get back to the chair

muted rapids
torpid sorrel
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Fair enough I guess

vital kestrel
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First coat of oil

muted rapids
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Nice transition there between the front and the coved part

vital kestrel
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Thanks, I also like how that turned out

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For the next ones I need to smooth out the bottom of the bowl better - there are a few slightly lumpy areas that the oil is making more visible 😅

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Also scraped a little too deep flushing up the leg tenons so another thing to be careful with on the next ones

muted rapids
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Richard Maguire's chair making series started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxUPuDaDfek

This video is part 1 of a 6 part course that I'll be sharing here on YouTube.
Look out for a new part every Thursday - Don't forget to subscribe!

My goal for this course is to equip you with the knowledge and tools to design & build your own chairs from scratch.
Once this is complete, I'll come up with some projects so we can put it all into us...

▶ Play video
indigo ore
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behold, my sticks. Feels natural to make a chair

dim mortar
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I’m not sure any of that is suitable for a seat or legs in the style of the stick chair

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Not to yuck your yum. Weak legs can break and branch woods often got quite squirrely grain that won’t lend itself well to legs IMO

torpid sorrel
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I have seen Schwarz trying out using branches for arm bows, though

atomic creek
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The DIY tenon cutter is only really possible for tapered tenons right?

muted rapids
torpid sorrel
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yes, thank you for specifying

indigo ore
drifting ether
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so you can rig up a straight one for sure

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you could also just borrow one blobFingerguns