#Stick Chair and Stool
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Fully seated stretcher dry fit
looks great so far
dinged the comb, had to repaint it : (
starting to get a nice soft sheen on the rest of it, hard to overstate just how much burnishing this is taking compared to a single color
Burnishing with paper bag or something else?
Is the grey more or less chorus than the white? I don’t think I’ve ever seen it.
more coarse
Well .. got my arm bow section glued back together...now to figure out how to drill it properly this time!
:\ hrm... something is very off. My holes on the arm bows are all way off, I think I botched the layout... the seat is correct, 3" spacing... I botched the armbow - I saw the varable spacing on the 4.25 and 3.375 but didn't catch the 3.75 between holes 3-4 and 7-8 I guess? Walking it off with dividers nbothing is making sense... I marked it from the template, but then did something else jazz hands and didn't follow my own plans I guess?
The only option, I think, is remake the entire armbow, and drill it out from the underside with the seat as a guide
hooray for through mortises!
im confused
if you drilled the seat mortises using the armbow
it shouldnt matter how you stepped it off
I have no idea how I got it this far out of whack...like for some reason the seat lines up right, but the holes in the armbow are all over the place.... like I was drunk playing with a drill
so the spacing on the seat is all even, but on the armbow, it's like I just drilled wherever and ignore the obviously marked points... but they do line up with the marks, which are from the drawings in the book, which I also verified (they're off a little, not enough to matter, not THIS bad)
ignore the precision, all I car about are the first 2 decimal points, and really only 100ths for rounding the 10ths
hrm... so the spacing in and of itself is not "right" but it's consistent left to right... and it's not as off as the sticks suggest, which means the spacing is fine, the angles are just whack
and consistent is what looks right, no one measures things unless you're me... so still can't figure out what I did wrong
well did you clamp the armbow and drill it then drill the seat through the mortises in the armbow?
or did you drill these components seperately
then the mortises in the arm might be imperfect or unevenly spaced, but should correspond to the seat fine
or you were reallllly off center drilling
and that's exactly what they're NOT doing
even if you rotate the sticks around?
yeah... lemme put the sticks in, you'll see what I'm seeing
ah I think I see how you got the spacing off, not that it'll matter
did you start from the centerline of the armbow?
Those look good, right?
or from a mortise
I started from the center line on the top and went down and forward toward the points on the seat
Should I have been starting towards the outside edge and trying to end my mortises on the center line? Again I think as long as it's consistent it shouldn't matter right?
If I flip the arm bow upside down and put the sticks in this is what they look like they're just sort of all over the place
I think part of the issue is that I had my drill and laser setup for the front to back angle but not as much for the side to side angle I was just sort of eyeballing that and then once I was through it was much easier to sort of center it in the hole and hit the middle mark on the seat so the spacing there is much cleaner but the alignment is garbage
ok and if you twist the sticks around in the mortises, it doesnt get better?
I mean that guy is off center for sure, which is normal
That gang there is drunk, and I think threw the rest off causing the break
They were on center, the entasis is not well centered
I don't know what I can do to fix those three short of plugging them
well, the shoulder is off it looks like the tenon might be a degree off, which is normal and fine
but it might just be the photo
Probably just the picture, holding them I can feel they are pretty dang straight
As much as I really wanted to finish this with a clear finish and really show off the cherry I think if I were to paint it I wouldn't worry one bit about plugging these holes and redrilling them
Also rotating them in the mortises doesn't change their angle
yea fair enough, im having a hard time coming up with an explanation for how it could have happened short of your bow slipping on the jig or something like that
I think it was just a matter of not paying enough attention on a couple of these holes and getting them at a bad angle to start with and then correcting it in the seat - 1/4-in bit extension rod fits in there just fine, but when you cram the actual stick in there it's just wonky as hell
I'm ok plugging it, and then drilling back from the underside of the chair, I'm going to make a kind of split plug that will center the bit extension rod, keep it all straight.
The first few sticks are all close enough they take minimal effort to seat, finger pressure 1/8" at most id say
@weak gale if you leave the 5th and seventh out, does it still not align? These are under the back rest and you’d get away with redrilling since it’ll be covered by that, right?
I think so, I'll check when I get back to the shop, but I may be lucky... those 2 are by far the worst offenders so I may luck out, good call!
Laggies and Mentlgen, I present the solution to my problem! The "drilling plugs out from the bottom"-izer mk.2 (mk1 was destroyed in a fit of forgetting what I was making)
The mortises on the seat are looking good, so this hollow plug will guide the bit extension up through that hole (which is just a fancy term for mortise) and into the soon to be plugged failholes on the armbow
It works!
looks nice
Oh man, wedge city up in here ... Deff gonna need them too, to get the sticks to fit ok I had to ease out the mortises more than id really like
the good news is that they act as a system and the lowbacks arent really asking all that much of the sticks
How many passes would you all do with a scorp before you stop and hone (on cherry fwiw)?
yeah if this was a high back I'd probaly have tossed it in the scrap pile for the smoker I'm getting some day 😛
never a satisfying answer, but just til it feels like its fighting you
if you want a slightly more complicated version -
I'd be less concerned if I was scorping for the rough removal, then travishing or scraping for the final
but if the scorp is the only tool you're using, probably a few times per seat
second coat of green, I may do one more, though I’ll have to make fresh paint.
love the color! I'm trying to decide if I want to go with a similar color to appeal to my wife.... but love the look of cherry
so...following the Schwarz advice to not beat myself up over the 200 flaws I see ion my seat now that I've saddled it
the front profile is even, and I think the seat is pretty flat across...but I am not even close to coloring inside the lines on the spindle deck and pls ignore the tearout 😛
I think when I get it all back together I'll be much happier with it
its a fine seat really, there are only really two "flaws" I really notice
and one is still fixable
the other is really nitpicky
the suspense is killing me!
- Your grain lines are running opposite directions at the seat joint
pick my nits Z!
the glue ine where I put the seat boards together?
- the rounding on the edges of the "spindle deck" arent perfectly even
You can fix this one by making a horseshoe template, and routing a very very thin flat along it that "redefines" the spindle deck
yeah I saw that in the book, like the idea
It honestly works best AFTER sanding the seat
I tried it before this time and I ended up knicking the "corner" of it a few times sanding and scraping
yeah, the glueilne... I thought I had it ok, but that one came back to bite me every stroke across it with the scorp
I probably removed 30% of the seat with 60 grit
also, the front board... wonky ass grain all over the place... yay cherry
and pin knots!
the pin knots are just part of the character of cherry imo,they look fine unless they're like right on the edge of a corner or something
they're just hard to cut through with the scorp
I love the look personally
I'm done for the day I think... might make that template if I can find a large enough piece of scrap plywood
the book talks about it... but what surface am I cutting? The "face" of the slope or stepping down the top?
I guess...from reading and picture, you eliminate the curve/slope and just have a hard edge?
Getting closer
the second pic actually looks like it’s further away, but could be perspective
Maybe a half step at most, ha
I am finding chairs very hard to photograph
The proportions seem to change a lot from one angle to another
And they often look different in the photo than in real life, sometimes for better and sometimes worse
chairs are genuinely very hard to photograph
combine that with how bad i am at photography already and dayum
Alas, I guess the joke fell short. 🙃
Na, all good, it was as little far fetched.
Chair is glued up
looks very nice
I'm happy to hear any suggestions on how to fix this where the milk paint peels off a little
flat milk paint look
same, had the same issue at two spots, both along ridges
I just painted over and did a seal coat of shellac, waited a bit and then started burnishing again
Is there a bit of glue residue there?
I’ve only used hide glue and that shouldn’t be an issues with milk paint; I did use a bit of wood putty, maybe it’s that.
It got worse and I tried to patch it with stick shellac I made and added some pigment to. That worked, but it’s pretty hard to level it and I scratched store paint off; gonna have to add a few more coats on some spots and hope it will blend in. I need to get more experience with fresh milk paint. Not w m what exactly I did wrong.
Isnt hide glue under milk paint how you get the crackling effect?
not that I’m aware of; it’s used to frost glass, that I know
soon i will be able to get back to my chair, once i finish replacing the carpet on yet another flight of stairs
it'll do the crackle thing for sure, i think you need a pretty thick layer of the glue though
TB liquid hide used to have instructions for it
this I guess https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/finishing/finish-line-traditional-crackle-finish
First coat
very nice!
I mixed my first batch of paint too thick and it made that coat too heavy
Started over-ish
Isn't it beautiful
Coat 1.5 on, better consistency this time
does that have a lot of extra information?
No
It is basically actually a journal with lots of photos and musings
I went through it a while ago and it has plans for.. 2 or 3 chairs if memory serves?
Any of you guys have experience hollowing seats with an adze? LV has one on special for $50, and at that price it's tempting, even if it's a scary tool
I used one a few times, but mostly in EWP, and a little bit on walnut for a bowl.
i have to sharpen my scorp still
i did my pullshave
once i finish these dumb stairs i can get back to the chair
How'd you like it?
As with most good hand tools, it’s fun, it can be tedious and it takes some practice
Fair enough I guess
First coat of oil
Nice transition there between the front and the coved part
Thanks, I also like how that turned out
For the next ones I need to smooth out the bottom of the bowl better - there are a few slightly lumpy areas that the oil is making more visible 😅
Also scraped a little too deep flushing up the leg tenons so another thing to be careful with on the next ones
Richard Maguire's chair making series started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxUPuDaDfek
This video is part 1 of a 6 part course that I'll be sharing here on YouTube.
Look out for a new part every Thursday - Don't forget to subscribe!
My goal for this course is to equip you with the knowledge and tools to design & build your own chairs from scratch.
Once this is complete, I'll come up with some projects so we can put it all into us...
behold, my sticks. Feels natural to make a chair
I’m not sure any of that is suitable for a seat or legs in the style of the stick chair
Not to yuck your yum. Weak legs can break and branch woods often got quite squirrely grain that won’t lend itself well to legs IMO
I have seen Schwarz trying out using branches for arm bows, though
The DIY tenon cutter is only really possible for tapered tenons right?
I think you can make one for straight tenons
slices of branches
yes, thank you for specifying
rather a yum yucked than a bum ... painful
the veritas pencil sharpener ones can be used for both
so you can rig up a straight one for sure
you could also just borrow one 