So I'm not sure if this is allowed, please correct if not, but instead of having a bunch of help threads for the same project I figured to just make one and add to it any time I had a question/concern.
#Running help thread
boreal flint
First up, I plan on routing out a channel along the length of the desk for wiring to be tucked into, and then covered up with a plastic sheet or some other material. However, I was wondering if leaving such a skinny sliver of material would lead to cupping or stability issues.
Critical dimensions that may be relevant, feel free to ask for more:
Original dimensions of material: 6' x 5" x 1.25"
Dimensions of channel: 6' x 1 7/8" x 1"
Material thickness left on "top" side of channel: 1/4"
worldly haven
Yeah that’s gonna snap
boreal flint
Well shucks. Is there a rule of thumb about how much of a board you can route out before you're risking adverse effects?
native coyote
I don't think it would necessarily snap
but I sure think it will warp
you can help that by just bridging supports on the bottom or keeping the channel away from the edge and as narrow as possible
boreal flint
When you say narrow do you mean in the yellow or blue dimension? Away from the edge in this case isnt really possible as I will hit the metal frame the desk top sits on.
worldly haven
Ah I just noticed that rabbet you have on the bottom. Team Varnish means to support the gap, presumably with those
boreal flint
That rabbet is currently meant to accept a sheet of 1/16" plastic so that the wires that go into the channel have something to rest on. Would something more substantial than that plastic be an appropriate bridge?
native coyote
When you say narrow do you mean in the yellow or blue dimension? Away from the e...
Yellow
boreal flint
Oh interesting, I was prepared for the other one. Cool.
native coyote
if it needs to be wide it would be better as a rabbet
the little...donger there will be weak
boreal flint
Yellow dimension is currently slated for 1 7/8", I think lowest I could go is 1 1/4"
native coyote
The acrylic is probably sufficient
boreal flint
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-688840/202090190
if you were curious
native coyote
I'd get thicker if that's still an option, but probably ok
boreal flint
1/8"? I was not prepared for this to be a structural part of my build so I went with thinnest possible as to not take up needed wiring space
native coyote
if you notice 1/16" of wiring space you're a supreme nerd
it's mostly just adding resistence for the short grain of the donger from getting stressed
even at 1/16 it's doing that job
boreal flint
Gotcha. At some point I'll figure out what I actually need, as all of this is speculative so far, hence planning for the largest channel I can make and compromising from there.
My biggest worry was cupping
native coyote
yea, attaching the plastic securely addresses both
boreal flint
Oh I didn't know that, thank you. Plan for securing was wood screws so it can be removed and re-installed easily.
boreal flint
updated plan, 1/8" rebate(?) for acrylic, channel is 1 1/4" x 13/16", headroom of material (the thickness of remaining material on top) 5/16", left edge of channel to left edge of material 1 3/8"
boreal flint
Hi friends. Its me again. This time, we are looking up at the bottom of my desk. This time, I'm wondering if threaded inserts are a good idea for a mechanical fastening to join the metal frame of the desk and the wood. My main concern is expansion ripping that all apart. Material (if it matters) will be walnut, about an inch thick, but I'm unsure of the milling type that will be used. If there are any other dimensions you need to be able to help out, please let me know. 🙂
native coyote
The metal should be slotted perpendicular to the grain, but the threaded insert is not really a problem
it's also probably no better than just like....a screw
but you get to feel fancier
boreal flint
but you get to feel fancier
If I don’t get to feel fancy what’s the point of any of this
native coyote
I have no counterargument
boreal flint
Ok, so when you say slotted, is hogging out the metal by abusing a drill bit an acceptable form of achieving that
steady elbow
a file or jigsaw with metal blade might be better?
boreal flint
Next up are finish recommendations. I do not plan on using a mouse pad, so I'll just be dragging my mouse around whatever my finish happens to be. I don't mind occasionally repairing the finish, however I would much prefer that process to be "local" to the damage, rather than having to strip and refinish the whole desk. Also I really do not love the glossy look of a french polish.
Reading through the finishing info section, it seems like that leaves me with drying oils or hardwax oils, and I have questions about each:
Drying Oils: when they say that tung oil takes longer to cure, is this a situation where I will be unable to use the desk for a long time any time I want to repair my finish?
Hardwax Oil: all the pictures I'm seeing of these on my material (walnut) seem to be flooring, and they are commonly quite glossy, something I'd rather avoid. Is the glossiness something that I can avoid while still using this method, or is that part of the package?
vocal reef
Next up are finish recommendations. I do not plan on using a mouse pad, so I'll ...
I have an example of Rubio Monocoat on walnut used on a box I made with my nephew. I used it specifically because we were in a time crunch and we didn’t have time to apply several coats. Let me get you a link so you can see at least one example of a hard wax on walnut.
boreal flint
Oh nice, thank you! Do you know what the repair/refresh process is like for that?
In my case time is less of a constraint, and more protection of the wood since itll be used and abused as a desk. Stuff will be spilled on it, hot stuff might get set on it, that kinda thing
vocal reef
I don’t have direct experience with repairs so this is secondhand information and you might want to wait for someone with more experience to chime in, but it is my understanding that you can sand out issues and reapply the wax in place and it will all blend together. It will bond to any exposed wood and everything excess will just wipe off.
boreal flint
Ok nice, thank you for the input!
native coyote
Have you considered the church of shellac
boreal flint
Somewhat, yeah. Although I will say, Pastor QP, the tithings required for repair of the Holy Finish somewhat confuse/concern me. In wear areas like under my mouse, do I just give it a little sand and throw some more on? Or do I need to do blending/redo the whole desk?
native coyote
You don’t even need to sand, just clean and it’s dry in 45 minutes
boreal flint
I’m also curious between the Holy Finish and Waterlox what the differences are
native coyote
One is bug poop and one isn’t
boreal flint
Oh thanks well that settles it
native coyote
Both are varnish so you’re good in the eyes of God
boreal flint
Will I be considered a heretic if I use shellac from the yellow can
Shit what’s the brand
Something with a Z?
boreal flint
Ok. And while waterlox has multiple surface finish gloss levels, is shellac equally flexible in that regard
native coyote
Waterloo a little more resilient to modern chemicals, shellac easier to repair
You control shellac sheen independently the product remains the same
boreal flint
Gotcha. What’s the process for doing that, if I wanted a non glossy finish?
native coyote
Steel wool or scotchbrite to knock it back
boreal flint
Ok nice
In that case I might go for shellac
Bonus points because I already have it lying around
But I need to see if the milk is old, so to say
Oh, and if I wanted to pore fill for a smoother feel, is that a separate product or a difference in application technique of shellac?
native coyote
Shellac actually can pore fill
Waterlox doesn’t really do that but I want tired of arguing yesterday
It kind of does
boreal flint
Oh sorry I wasn’t meaning to be argumentative if that was the case
native coyote
No just I didn’t feel like arguing with tbe claim
boreal flint
Well that’s convenient
native coyote
You need to keep alcohol and ammonia off the desk, otherwise it will be great