#Oak TV Stand - Feedback on design and questions about lumber

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

hoary needle
#

Dimensions: 196cm wide, 22cm tall, and 26cm wide.

Questions:

  1. Can the front panel be one solid piece of oak? (measurements are: 191cm x 17cm x 2cm) or will this twist and turn on me?
  2. Should i do this with plywood, or lumber?
  3. What thickness should i try to get? 2-3cm?
  4. I've never done a glue up. What kind of dimensions should i "aim" for in terms of buying oak boards, so that i'll have as little problems as possible with warping while still having a "wide" look of the boards.
  5. Does the design look OK?
tvbench_v1_2024-Jan-29_01-15-00AM-000_CustomizedView3958287751_jpg.jpg tvbench_v1_2024-Jan-29_01-15-15AM-000_CustomizedView14031654125_jpg.jpg tvbench_v1_2024-Jan-29_01-14-26AM-000_CustomizedView32786336297_jpg.jpg tvbench_v1_2024-Jan-29_01-15-42AM-000_CustomizedView6605831078.png tvbench_v1_2024-Jan-29_01-37-59AM-000_CustomizedView11796376725.png
wet isle
#
  1. Yes, you can make this out of one solid piece of oak. If properly dried and milled it shouldn't change too much over the seasons. But that's a long enough board that even a slight twist will manifest in it not closing evenly.
  2. You could build it from either one.
  3. 2cm thick would probably be thick enough to not sag - check out one of the sag calculators along with the weight of your TV. But otherwise it is an aesthetic choice.
  4. This question implies solid wood... and, it depends on what kinds of tools you have. With solid wood you can buy the flattest boards they have and hope you can pull them together with clamps or you can joint and then plane them to make them flat. Once the boards have been properly milled there should be very little if any warping.
  5. It'll look fine from my house. Though, if you are planning on resting this on your floor you might want to consider feet. If your floor is actually flat then you have the only one in existence. Your diagram doesn't really show hinges for the front door so I suspect those were not considered. Is this an AI generated design?
stone spoke
#

Architectural standards exist for best practices in panel glue ups, depends slightly on the wood, but a good rule of thumb for board width in panel glue ups is ~4" or ~10cm. Some woods move less and can be a bit wider, riftsawn or quartersawn can be a bit wider as well

#

doesnt mean the boards cant be wider, just that to minimize visually apparent movement, 4" is a good rule of thumb

#

I've used wider boards in panels, just depends on the amount of movement you're willing to tolerate

hoary needle
#

@wet isle Are you Norwegian?

  1. Do you have any thoughts on if it would be cheaper to make this out of plywood or boards? I'm thinking maybe it could be a option to glue oak for the front like in this video https://youtu.be/GFiaN12bM_E?t=279

  2. TV will be wall hanged

  3. Was thinking of hanging it on the wall using a french/nail board. I also know where the studs in the wall are, so i'll attach it using some big screws with washers. Hinges combined with gas struts. Any recommendations regarding hinges? And it's a drawing from Fusion 360

stone spoke
#

doing it with plywood and a frame like that sort of removes the concerns about board width

#

if you dont mind the look, thats a good idea

hoary needle
stone spoke
#

or just one board ripped down

hoary needle
#

One board ripped

stone spoke
#

yea, I dont see why not

#

you can do it with a hand plane, cheap being pretty subjective

hoary needle
stone spoke
#

There's also iron on edge banding for plywood as well

stone spoke
#

a tinted finish can also sort of hide a joint to some extent

hoary needle
#

I'm about to contact a local wood shop, is it common to ask for flattened/joint ready oak boards, or is this something they'll probably would need to make custom for me? I'll looking at maybe buying a used Dewalt DW733 for $500 but i'm kinda torn since this is all very new

stone spoke
#

If I remember correctly you're in the EU. I imagine it is? They might charge to surface the boards. Here it's around .75$/board foot for surfacing 3 sides, you rip to final width generally

#

some places are higher, some are lower

#

oak is also common enough that they may already have them ready to use

wraith yarrow
#

Keep in mind if you make this out of solid wood you want the grain in your side panels to run vertically - the rendering shows them horizontal. Then the sides will expand and contract in the same direction as the top

#

If plywood it's up to you, but I think the vertical grain on the sides looks more "correct"

hoary needle
stone spoke
#

I would just ask if they surface wood and what it costs, they should know what it means. you may need to let them know ahead of time roughly how much you're looking for

hoary needle
wraith yarrow
stone spoke
#

be sure to tell them you need it uniform thickness if they're surfacing it fully for you

#

otherwise they might just get it to flat/straight and hand it off

hoary needle
#

Good point

stone spoke
#

Also don't stress if the wood for the frame bows or warps a tiny bit, it should be long/thin enough to be glued into place anyway

hoary needle
stone spoke
#

np, good luck, be sure to post photos after the build!

hoary needle
#

Maybe last question i have for all is, if you where making this, how would you do it. plywood with facing edges, or boards? (or other ways)

stone spoke
#

really depends on the look someone was going for. If you want it to be sleek and minimalist, plywood for sure

#

otherwise, solid wood

#

also relevant the tools, plywood is a "modern" material meant for modern tools, I wouldn't want to be edge jointing plywood with a hand plane

hoary needle
hoary needle
# hoary needle

edge jointing as in gluing the front here? In regards to the message here #1201342002101502032 message

stone spoke
#

The main advantage to plywood is that you can have a ~60x250cm board that looks like one piece of wood with no joints. That wouldn't really be possible in hardwood.

#

oh I see

#

I just mean hand planing plywood is miserable

#

you'd want to rip it with a good tablesaw or tracksaw blade to get a good joint

#

to put the face frame on

#

it chips out if you don't have a good blade, and often you need to score the cut as well

hoary needle
stone spoke
#

if the lumber yard sells the plywood you're considering, they'll probably rip it to size for a nominal fee as well

#

and may have a slider with a scoring blade

hoary needle
#

Another question appeared as i'm asking for a quote for materials.

Should i ask them to rip the material to exactly the dimensions i'm after? Is that something that could end up being bad for me? I have the exact mm measurements in Fusion 360.. Where i'm getting a quote from now is a furniture maker that also sells raw boards so i guess they could quote me on it at least, but i don't know if it has any downsides?

I don't have that good equipment (dewalt table saw etc) so it would make it easier if i'd just do the sanding, oil and assembly.

stone spoke
#

you could sure, especially if its plywood

#

hard to give a strong recommendation, not knowing where you're buying or anything

hoary needle
#

Hmm, i'll ask. Should i add a "backpanel", or will this be stiff enough with cleat + nail board?

Screenshot_2024-01-30_at_21.52.11.png
#

I can use pocket holes to attach the cleat and nail board to the sides

stone spoke
#

yes and yes

#

I would add the back panel, it'll add minimal weight for a lot of stability

hoary needle
#

Wondering if i should just drop the french cleat and nail board then, and just have the whole back as as single piece? As the whole thing is just 26cm deep, the internal space will be quite small with a backplate also... Hmm blobThinkingEyes

hoary needle
#

Any recommendations for hinges?

Screenshot_2024-01-30_at_22.54.41.png
stone spoke
#

Blum hinges are better priced than their slides