I’m looking to build this coffee table. It says it’s engineered wood, so plywood core. I want to avoid that if possible but would be ok to do it for cost and weight savings. Two questions: 1. I’ve never done anything with a plywood core.m, so how would I go about doing that? (And would it be better to just use a cheaper wood as a core like poplar or pine?) 2. This is white oak…which is expensive. Would you instead recommend to use a cheaper wood like ash and just make it out of solid wood (I built a white oak TV console and would like them to match…is that feasible? I’ve never worked with ash). Thank you. Here’s some pictures of the table I want to build and the cabinet I want it to match. Thanks!
#how would you go about this?
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There is no reason you can't make this out of solid wood, but what machines do you have?
Table saw, tabletop jointer and planer and tabletop bandsaw router and small router table. Drills, circular saw (no track saw). I’m pretty well stocked on tools…and don’t mind an excuse to buy a new one lol.
Table is called mitered/waterfall edge. You cut the boards at 45° angles either on a table saw or with a track saw, or a router and a large V-bit with a guide (taking many many passes).
I’ve done the router on 3/4” thick and it was a real pain
So I know I can make it out of solid wood, but white oak is like $13 a board foot for 8/4…and I feel like it would be heavy as hell
Would ash ($7bf) be something I can stain to match my cabinet or would it just look way off?
What wood and how much you invest is up to you, but you could do 6/4 for it to be a little thinner, and if you plan to keep this a while and/or plan to buy new tools to do it, then the cost of wood is going to be marginal.
I think it's worth grabbing some scraps and seeing what you can do finish-wise
Damn you and your logic lol
Ash and white oak are like distant cousins, same ballpark in tone, but up close the grain is pretty different. If you wanted to come in and stain both, I'd say it's possible
White oak has a very distinctive grain pattern, including medullary rays, that stain won’t help with.
Oh yeah I forgot about that…you’re right. Ash doesn’t have those from what I’ve seen.
But for the miters I like doing those with routers these days. Infinity makes a chonker for these tables
Circular saw and an edge guide could work too, if it has enough depth of cut and does 45°
Hmm…yeah in the end it would be like $600…not the end of the world, just more than I was planning to spend on the coffee table.
Table saw is harder without a crosscut sled
big crosscut sled too
Yeah I guess I’m just salty that it’ll be about the same cost to buy it. With the cabinet, I spent about $600 in materials and the cost to buy was $1800.
This is what it looks like with a router
Oh damn…that looks amazing
But if your guides slip at all, you end up having to clean things up afterwards.
I’m actually going to try that now…seems like you’d get much better miters.
If your routing is accurate, you get very accurate 45° cuts
So the consensus on the wood is just bite the bullet and get the 8/4 white oak?
Haha! I mean my wife said the same thing…just get the oak, we’ll have this for a long time.
Sounds like a keeper!
So…how do you strengthen those miters then? Just hidden L brackets on the underside of the table?
You’re going to have to find a very large router bit to do a V through 8/4
You can do splines
Or dominos/biscuits
I just glued mine because it was for a nightstand, I knew it didn’t need to be weight bearing.
If not I’ll figure out a way. That’s the fun of woodworking. Tbh I’m not as much concerned about the waterfall part of it, although it would be a nice detail.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking. May end up doing it with a table saw or circular saw and guide. But if you look at the original picture…their miters aren’t great either
Good time to buy a shaper with a sliding table! 😉
That thing looks chunkier than 8/4 that’s why I was asking about a plywood core or something
The only thing is space. I’m working out of a garage. Lol!
Getting and veneering something that thick would require at least a vacuum kit. Doable, but not cheaper than hardwood.
And then if it gets scuffed up, it’s harder to refinish
Hmm…yeah that’s true. My plan was to get white oak and cut like…1/4” strips to use as veneer. So a bit thicker, but from what you’re saying I would still basically need a vacuum kit.
8/4 should be plenty strong. How wide will it be? I computed sag for my bench and it was fine to hold 2 adults sitting on it at 1.5” thick and about 5’ long.
Probably about 50” by like 25” or so. 14” high
Give it take depending on how I feel while I’m building it haha
Sagulator time!
I’m more of a “go with the flow” builder rather then have a concrete plan lol
Reinforcing the miter joints will probably be a good idea, but raw strength from the wood top should be fine.
You could also do hidden L brackets like you mentioned.
Route out a recess for them before gluing it together.
Yeah the easiest thing to do would be to rout in some L brackets on the underside I would think. You wouldn’t see them unless you were under the table.
Right. Domino is also an easy and effective option if you have access to one.
…and if I really wanted to I could always hide it with some wood on top.
Maybe some day. But that’s why I was asking about dowels. Is there a way to just drill in dowels a la dominoes?
Yes but it’s not as easy
Or too hard to account for the 45
I’ve seen people build jigs with a router for doing dowel holes.
The 45 isn’t a problem. You make the holes perfectly orthogonal to the miters
Dowels don't strengthen joints, only align them... and not very well
And then the 2 sides combine to make 90. It’s just alignment between the two sides of the miter that is hard.
Even on a miter joint, it won’t add glue surface?
I have a research paper about how all dowel joints fail
I thought that was for laminations, didn’t know it applied for miter joints, but I trust you know.
Fuck it…pocket screws lol
you are better off running a hidden spline. make a jig for your router or whatever to run down the miter and cut a 3/16" groove straigt don the middle, then slap in a strip of plywood
I mean I was joking but it could work…although not ideal
Well now you’ve exceeded my skill cap, because I know I wouldn’t be able to make it work.
How would I go about that with an 8/4 tabletop is my only concern
Shits heavy
Crosscut sled and some friends?
the top doesn't move. Just take a trim router, make a base that straddles the miter
you can even make a stopped groove so it's not visible using a trim router
Yeah I know what you were saying. I’m having a hard time picturing it though.
Something like this?
Actually that seems pretty reasonable to do…ok, this is coming together lol
just remember to measure your plywood strips. I forgot that 1/4" plywood is actually 3/16" / 5mm when I made my last vanity 🙂
Haha! I would have honestly forgotten if you didn’t mention it. But yeah that’s a super useful little jig.