#Building a floating bedframe

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

silver glen
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any tips on how to measure out for a floating bed frame
im using 2x4 and already have an existing bed frame that measures 1982mm in length and 1283mm in width, so this frame would go underneath that already existing frame to make it look like it is floating, do i make the overhang the same as the thickness of the timber?

forest stratus
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That photo you posted - is that the total height of the bed?

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It seems about 2ft high?

silver glen
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its about 1ft

forest stratus
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The comment I had about the bed being too high to get into -- was I previously had a bed frame that was 20" (two lines of drawers) and then we put bunkie boards on top of it, and then a matress with a topper... I had to crawl on top of the bed and my wife needed step stool.

silver glen
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oh wow lmao, no the bed is actually quite low in all honesty

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the added 4 inch in height is probably going to make it sit a bit more normal height i think

forest stratus
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I think you'll need to make it 7" (width of 2x 2x4s)

silver glen
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in terms of height?

forest stratus
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Yeah

silver glen
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i wanted 2x4 as it would make it look like it would be sitting on the skirting board which i thought would look quite nice

silver glen
forest stratus
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Well, you would have a 2x4" base frame: (with more cross members)

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And then the second tier:

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This is the part that has the overhang (with more blocking than shown)

silver glen
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yep that was the idea

forest stratus
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Then I'd do a sheet of 1/2" ply or so:

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You end up with a stupidly strong torsion box

silver glen
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so what overhang would you recommend to keep that bottom tier out of site

forest stratus
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12" should be sufficient

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You'd have to be 10 ft away with your eye level at 3 ft to see the bottom tier

silver glen
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well the absolute furtherst you can be is 6ft

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and i was thinking about half that at 6inchish

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idk whether that would still allow it to be unseen

forest stratus
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At 6' and 4' eye level it'd be about 6"

silver glen
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right, and i feel like that wouldn't leave much weakness structurally

forest stratus
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Nope

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If all you're trying to do is add a 6" cantilever, 2x4 is super sufficient

silver glen
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great, my idea in my head is a little different to how you have it but i think it will work, the only difference is i would have more cross members on the bottom tier as i wanted to be able to put mdf on top and then the second tier on top of that woud literally just be the already existing ottomon bedframe rather than that decking, i may be a bit foolish as i assume i have no where near as much experience as you do as im still a young apprentice but i have very high ambitions

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plus im going to fix this thing to hell because im very anxious about it

forest stratus
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I don't know what the bottom of your bed frame looks like

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The reason why I have two tiers is because I'm assuming that the bed sits on the 4 corners - and that there are no internal members that are flush with the bottom of the bed that can sit on top of the "bottom tier"

silver glen
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well to an extent it would as it would sit in the 2 corners as no overhang would be needed but i dont know wether that would be enough or not, there is no internal members that will be flush to the bottom tier which is what im trying to kind of wrap my head around

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im toying with the idea of joist hangers a little bit

forest stratus
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With a 6" overhang??

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I mean - maybe - if you're installing the joist hangers inside of your bed frame

silver glen
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Problem is is that I want that mdf to sit on top of that bottom tier and then in a ways round have the top tier sit on top of that and be fixed at 2 sides to the mdf and the bottom tier and then you will have the overhang on the 2 sides not facing the wall somehow supported that isn’t seen when using the ottoman feature

forest stratus
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MDF is not really structural

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I don't kow that the MDF likes cantilevering

silver glen
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So literally everything it can so it doesn’t sag or bend