#With limited tools, how do I make something Flat and Square on all sides?
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For $100, unless you have a machine shop handy to fix up an old hand plane... no.
thought so
I suppose I could probably work up some sort of straight edge jig for one side, then use the rip guide on the table saw for all the other sides
how big is this piece?
~13.5" x 19.5"
It's not ideal. Unless you have a nice table saw. Small ones have too much flex to accurately joint lumber.
I do not, it's a small work site one
Ah yeah, then even the rip line you make may be a little wonky unfortunately
depends on how well tuned in the saw is, as well as the fence alignment method
The rack and pinion style is the better option for jobsite saws IMO
that's the little groove with the adjustable angle slider?
it came with one of those
ill need a pic to understand what you mean
lol sorry
no worries
the two grooves on either side of the handle? or the groove that the whole thing slides in?
Well that groove and the black piece that slides in it, is that what you mean by rack and pinion?
The groove that the whole thing slides in is called a miter slot. Ideally, they are exactly parallel with the fence (the thing you called a rip guide) and also parallel with the blade. Depending on the saw you have, that may or may not be achievable through some tedious measuring, swearing, and measuring again
The black thing that slides in the slot is called a miter gauge and it helps you make angled cuts. Unfortunately, the one that comes with your saw, and every other table saw for that matter, is not very good and should not be relied upon for perfect cuts
oh i see, rack and pinion fence is the one on a rail that takes it out further than the table
i think
Rack and pinion is a style of construction that some jobsite saw manufacturers use to keep their fence in line with the blade, and generally does an ok job at not deflecting, or moving out of the way, when you push on it
I believe DeWalt were the first ones to do it on jobsite saws, but since then I've seen them on more and more saws, though I have no idea if one brands rack and pinion is better than another
got it.
correct
I think perfection is a bit of an unrealistic goal here, since I'm just kind of learning this as a hobby. maybe i should start with the miter gauge at 90 even though it won't be great. I can cut one side close, measure the angle off by 90 and adjust a bit
and if i'm close-ish to 90, that'll be good enough imo
rack and pinion means the saw fence has a gear and track setup to move it back and forth. Keeps the front and back aligned
powered hand planes are pieces of shit. dont make the same mistake people here made. DONT BUY IT
i was thinking non-powered hand plane
they're about as precise as a jackhammer lol
i'd suggest design around boards being a specific thickness. it's gonna be tough with the tools you have
There may be some "slop" in the rails, and that is hard to adjust or tune out, but if the actual miter gauge is out of square, you can, with some patience, shim it to be square. Screw a piece of wood that you know to be flat (MDF is good for this) onto the face of the miter gauge, and start making test cuts, and put shims between the MDF and the miter gauge until you are happy
ye olde hand planes can be good, but you need a lot of money in sharpening equipment to get there. By my estimation its about a $450 startup cost.
woof, no thanks
a good crosscut sled build is a good project to be able to do crosscuts
the miter gauge that comes with just about every saw is a piece of shit
at that cost one of those thicknesser powered planer things would be in the same ballpark
i think i spent like 150 on my sharpening. i did not buy good stones tho
That's buying good stuff, new. I'm sure it can be done cheaper, but I know I like this hobby enough that eventually I'll be ok with making that purchase. I havent yet, but I will. As a beginner, might not be worth it
i grabbed the veritas sharpening guide on sale so i got lucky imo
yeah, for a beginner, a benchtop thicknesser is a really awesome thing to have. Allows you to face joint and thickness in one machine, and allows you to buy rough sawn lumber, which opens options for buying from hardwood suppliers who may not sell S2S lumber, and of course rough sawn lumber will be cheaper than the equivalent S2S
depends on where you live
none of the yards i go to even have rough cut shit
i think you have to like custom order for that
and as knowles said, a crosscut sled is a great first project because it allows you to not have to rely on your crappy miter gauge or fussing with dialing it in
but all the stuff on the rack is s3 or s4
oh really? interesting. Every yard ive been to in south and central NJ assume RGH unless otherwise stated
i still SLR the stuff i get tho. from the time it was jointed to the time i bought it, that board dried out a little more
SLR?
straight line rip
if you call it jointing, one of the old heads comes in and yells at you
oh I always just say edge joint or face joint
i do too. just not out loud haha
You can set up an old handplane for less then $100.
But it's certainly not ideal. -Finding one that's decent at a good price can be difficult,
-there's alot of technique involved to get all 6 sides flat and square (the reason why old furniture is based arround the concept of reference faces)
-the only way to get a sharpening/flattening system for less then a 100 including a plane, your looking at sandpaper. So you'll end up needed to replenish your system before long and will eventually end up spending more when you eventually spend more then your budget
any second hand tool you kind of need to know what to look for first yeah?
That too.