#building my 1st pc
1 messages · Page 9 of 1
tdp != power draw
🐧🐧
my ryzen 5 3600 has a tdp of 65w, but it can draw up to 130w depending on what load that gets put onto it
what did it answer with]
loved this one
lol
"but here's the thing" taken straight from a ltt video script lmao
basically just power limiting your cpu
the technology is called ppt and its made by amd but im sure intel has its own version
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/explorer/diy-builder/power-supply-units/what-psu-is-best-for-rtx-4090/
The NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 is a high performance graphics card that requires adequate power in order to render extremely detailed graphics for today's games.
i didnt even know you could control that
intel's is just known as power limit
you have pl1 and pl2
pl1 is boost, pl2 is sustained
though for amd you use what is known as PBO2 to tune the cpu
precision boost override
so i could limit the power to my cpu and gpu worst case scenario
and if i get atx 3.0 then itll probably add more flexibility to that
oh i think ik why atx12v 3.0 is called that.
it only supplied 12v? and the motherboard steps down the volts depending on what it is
no
atx 3.0 psu's like atx 2.0 psu's turn ac mains to 3.3v,5v, 12v dc
is atx 3.0 for motherboards too or is it just psus?
just psu
like does it have a 2nd section of the specification with the same name as "atx 3.0"
2nd section for just mobos
maybe it just comes from the max voltage then
original atx did 12v too lol
so i think they just added it to the specification so that people wouldnt mix it up with mobos
it also did 3.3v and 5v
only atx12vo does 12v only
yes
so does that mean the ones marked as single rail on the tier list are atx12vo?
no
multirail = several 12v rails
yup
highly different
GPU and CPU
cpu, gpu are the 2 main ones
The motherboard is just a fuckload of data traces and stuff
Doesn't really require any power on its own
It's all the components that go on it that require power
which means the cpu power plugs in through the mobo too probably
probably not the back of the mobo or the cpu directly
Of course
atx12vo also has a 12vsb rail
whats the point of the 12vsb rail? ik it supplied power when the system is turned off.
So your USB ports can still supply power when the PC is off
ohhh
ik atx12vo is really just atx12vo 3.0 since it is still atx 3.0 but does that mean regular atx 3.0 doesnt include a 12vsb rail in it's specification?
it outputs 12v only, and on the mobo it converts it to 3.3v and 5v
thats what i meant earlier by the step down thing. i had gotten it wrong tho, it wasnt atx12v 3.0. it was atx12vo
so vsb rails dont count as multi rail designs. its like they dont count that rail
even for atx12vo
which is technically still a single rail design.
but they are not the same thing. ik that.
have we stopped talking abt vans and inverters even though they dont matter
it would seem that RGB makes the psu less efficient
enough to make silver psus bronze
rgb in a psu is useless
in 90% of cases, you wont even see it
oh you mean the shroud
yes
that's why you dont do a shroud with rgb psu
thats why you dont do an rgb psu
i mean you could if you wanted to for aesthetics
the esthetics of a shroud far outweigh the esthetics of an rgb psu
but yeah if you care about max efficiency then you wouldnt. but rgb psus are cool
i personally hate the way shrouds look.
HOW
you like the look of a disgusting ass mess of cables at the bottom of your case?
i wouldnt get ketchup and mustard cables
good cables still make a disgusting mess of cables
youd need custom cables that are exactly to size
are custom cables a thing. ive heard a rumor that you cant use ANY other cables even cables from the same exact psu otherwise it blows up or some stupid shit
you cant use other psu cables
i remember talking about custom cables and i want to do that bad
ik not other psu cables
but you can order cable ends for your specific psu and make your own, or buy some from someone like cablemod
but how do you buy the custom cables. cause wont those just be random cables
i just dont want custom cables that will make it blow up
you buy wire, sleeving, and motherboard/eps/pcie cable ends
it wont lol.
can this custom job be performed after you buy the psu
yep
Yes
cause the psu probably comes with the mustard and ketchup cables
no
ohh
afaik, any 1kW+ psu will have blackc cables
Only like supreme budget ones really are mustard
only non-modular ~500w psus have colored cables
for the dark power 13, you would buy "plugs" for all of these connectors that you need, psu motherboard, cpu, pcie 5.0, etc. then, you would buy eps and (motherboard side) motherboard power plugs
in your case (if you get this psu, please do), you probably wouldnt need more than 1 drive, 1 P8 (thats cpu i believe), 2 pcie 5.0 (1 for the psu and one for the gpu), and each of the motherboard connectors
when singularly sheathed yes, but not as a bunch
custom cables are a thing, and are limited to a couple brands tbh, it's more that extensions can be problematic instead
as it's the fan having rgb on it, and the fan always faces down, you'd never see the rgb on a psu
also there's a couple rgb psu's that have the potential to kill your system
no idea why she doesnt like psu shrouds, it makes no sense
i know how to make it look ok without the shroud being there but tbh, having a psu shroud there is a good thing
exactly
though i have mine cable managed even under the shroud
no matter how much you "cable manage", there will always be at least a slight mess of cables where they come out
but a shroud still looks nicer than bare wires
trust me, going anally ocd on cable managing for 3 hours minimum definitely means less chances of a mess
lol
takes 15-30 mins to build a pc when you've done it enough times, but if you're really particular about how you want it cable managed, 3 hours is like the minimum
i don't follow the shove it in and push down the cover on it approach
i dont either
you can spend like 5-10 minutes of work to make it look much better
and the #1 rule is: dont cross wires (unless there is no way around it)
this thread is giving me brain damage
well i had ram chosen
and mobo is close
ram is basically chosen
im working on psu now
storage is also chosen
should have already chosen mobo
yeah but it took too long and i got tired of doing research on it
i needed to take a break and work on while i was at work since im at work like almost all the time
had a couple weekends where i was busy and didnt have time for this
but not psu and mobo are p much in the same place
so i mostly can only do it on my own time in my database
and that just takes awhile
so the case determines the psu form factor
not the mobo
Of course
One could look at it the other way around
The PSU form factor determines what cases will fit it
thats true which is how i will do it
cause i care more about the psu than the case
and i care more about the mobo than the case
i dont want the case choice to limit either the psu or mobo
lmao
So atx for everything
so atx psu, atx mobo, and something like a 5000d airflow
that way no limitations for you then
great minds think alike 😆
the 4000-5000-7000 lineup of corsair cases are soo cool imo. theyre pretty low profile (as in not super gamery) so they can look like a pretty "normal" pc that still packs a punch
7000d is a full atx case while 4000d and 5000d are both mid atx cases
i have mostly been only looking at atx, but i will compare it to itx and sfx stuff
to see what i will be missing out on
It limit your options
Nothing other than size
yeah but in terms of mobo, it seems like i wouldnt lose that much so far
just m.2 support
arguanly "good"
id recommend an atx build anyway for a first time builder. it has less hastle than smaller builds
you asked this before and i told you no
there's no grounding, and no protection. and anyway, you can get $70 fully featured cases
i feel like a custom case would be so cool. like one you build yourself into the van
wait until youre better at building pcs for a custom case
but ig you wouldnt be able to take it with you out of the van if that was ever going to be a thing
no mounting for psu, wires can easily get damaged, vibrations affecting the system, and definitely no way you can use a hdd
maybe i will wait on a built in build until after i get the van if i get the van cause i can just take the new pc apart again in the future and rebuild it into the van
cases are cheap
some cases are, some not so much
anything under $300 for a case seems dirt cheap to me
that is a bad take
some of the best cases are $80-150
there's a case i've been after, finding it is like finding hens teeth
and at best an import of it will be around $800 usd/£900 gbp
it's a specific dual system case
damn
Oh can't wait to get into the cooler debate after we finish screaming frozen notte 360 at them for another thread's worth of text
well i've already suggested the deepcool lt720
Same difference
and that would be overkill itself for the 7950x3d
would you like to see said case?
yes
GEMINI X The Power of Two The best dual build case ever created. Great aesthetics, high-end component support and extreme cooling capabilities in a grand design that breaks conventions to deliver something never seen before. GEMINI X The Power of Two The best dual build case ever created. Great aesthetics, high-end component support and extreme ...
oh yeah i forgot i already chose an aio
an over priced one that's beaten by one that costs $140
wait which one
Get a HAF stacker
nah i want to get this and mod it
i can combine a nas and my main pc all in one in that case
okay yeah this case is awesome
my current case https://cougargaming.com/products/cases/panzermax-g/ though i've modified it slightly
PANZER MAX-G The Ultimate Full Tower Gaming Case Panzer Max-G is a full tower gaming case with a full-sized tempered glass panel that has been designed with gamers, overclockers, modders and professional level computer lovers in mind. It brings you great freedom when designing your system, with lots of space for components and superb cooling […]
so this one $800
yes
I'd love to get a HAF stacker 915r but they seem to not exist literally anywhere lol
what aio
the montech air 903 begs to differ
begs to differ what
actually i dont think i chose an aio mb.
i just thought i did. but ive only chosen that i will go aio
~$75 for the fully featured version of the case. 3 argb fans and a fan and rgb hub
that's less than $300
($72 for the black, $77 for the white)
are you all so poor you dont know what dirt cheap means
i mean a cheap case can still be a really good option
i thought you meant begs to differ as in you were about to give me an expensive option lmao
no, but $40 = dirt cheap case
$800 is kind of expensive for a case
*$400
$300 is expensive for a case
or $300 yeah
$75 is just as dirt cheap to me. thats literally lunch money
nahhh $300 is nothing.
what the hell lunch are you getting
my current case was only £135 gbp, so around $160 usd
where are you eating??
are you that used to making poor financial decisions?
not something that would cost $75
my financial decisions are prem
....
only reason why im in my position tbh
@naive robin if i ever went itx, i'd get this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373755970456
i dont want to go back through the bad decisions you made throughout this build
2kw psu
optane, t700, liquid suprim 4090, 96GB ram
not really
poor choice there tbh
yes, yes really
one of them is wendell
after i came across that, theres nothing that can change my mind on it
you can monitor the progress here
i'd modify this into looking like mjolnir and sit it into a resin based rock
but, anyway, the best choice is the Dark Power 13, as so many (including me many times) have said
imagine having a pc looking like this
its literally only A tier
not A+
and it's 1000w
which is fine
theres so many other options
it only needs to be tier A
A+ doesnt exist
yes it does
show me
nope
lmao
highest spot on the tier list....
I have some choice words for people like this but I'd have to ban myself if I said them
but prove me wrong. show me an A+ tier psu
the blue ones are = A
the gold ones = A+
no, that is not how it works
nope
yes it is
on the tier list it doesnt say A+ but in the spreadsheet, the gold ones are A+
colouring does not mean it's A or A+
they would put it in an A+ tier
if it was "A+"
There is quite literally an A+ PSU there that's magenta
please read the full conversation unless you are directing this towards them lol
most of tier B, several in gold colouring, definitely not A+
🤯
also we already went over this
the subtiers on the list are all A- or B- or C- etc
here's the A-
and as that states the '+' means it's to be gold colour, which means this
yeah cause thats B+ lmao
so no, no tier A+
nope
YES
the '+' as they stated is to just to have it gold coloured for the text
it's not a tier lettering
why would anyone put a psu in A tier and then call it A+ tier
there is no b- either
sub tiering it to low priority, which they clearly labelled it as
totally incorrectly reading their legend
no i am not lmao
yes, yes you are
no im not 100%
tier A low priority
yeah thats A-
bro no
nope, if you did you would have spoken with one of the psu cultist people, or be on their discord
It's like to a 5 yr old w a god complex
nope
I assure you dream, you will not find a better psu with all the quality of life features that the dark power 13 has, at least not at that price. i know you thow out price, but thats really really bad. theres no reason to spend extra money for no reason
all falling on deaf ears :/
You can lead a blind horse to water but you can't make it drink
at least its available
til you see the conversion price
tbh for my next case I'm thinking of a open air design and full water cooling cause why not
Wow
Now is there a plug that can run 25A of 240V
why cant i find the corsair rmx shift on pcpp
youre searching wrong or smth
Nice if ram seller listed all timing that are not set at jedec and made them better then jedec rather then worse
send me the link
okay so far here are the psus i think i will probably go
these are all 1600w, all are titanium and all are A+
the axi is the smallest size at 200mm
here are some good platinum options
both of these are A+ but the HX platinum is $270 and the cybercore is $195
but the cybercore is relatively much smaller at 160mm
here are some good gold options
the g7 is the smallest one
all 3 are A+
That seasonic one is looking really nice for that price.
oops replied to wrong message.
these two are worth mentioning. they are titanium and still A normal priority but the dark power 13 is also $270, i just feel like there are better options than these
oh you mean the seasonic below it
If you are even considering the Dark power 13 get it.
this one is cheaper and seems to be just as good
This one.
wouldnt the t2 be better in terms of money
not in stock at the place it is priced better.
the psu that has the highest wattage that is close with the dark power 13 is this one
Cooler Master M2000 2000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (MPZ-K001-AFFBP-UK)
except the dark power 13 is smaller and 50% cheaper and is titanium not plat
Dark power 13 is just really good, no point in getting anything higher in wattage above 1200
since according to your research anything below 40% power utilization of the psu has a hard drop off in efficiency.
relatively hard drop off
but it's kind of still small and is really a nitpicky thing
Yes, Im almost certain you would have better eff with even the dark power at that point rather than the 1600w choices.
Yeah but you want as much as possible when you are not plugged directly into the power grid.
oh you mean for vanlife
yes.
Also the Dark Power 13 is just really good for the price and has 10 year warranty which is a big plus in my books.
Although you could get a pro 12 if you can find one which would be better since it would be 1200w.
According to what you want at least.
what its also not 40% workload
at 50% workload the specification is at its peak efficiency. if the load is greater or less than 50% is scales accordingly and it is up to 3% less
bringing it down to like 90-91% ish
It's different between each PSU some have really hard fall off below 40% from what I saw.
you typically want higher than that than lower.
so the psu itself makes the line flatter depending on the psu
yes
so it still peaks at around 50-60%
but a lower workload below 50% is usually less steep than the one after 60% even for good quality psus
meaning, if you pick a psu with less wattage its actually worse than picking a psu with too much wattage
Yes to a certain extent
Also remember your parts wont be always drawing 700 watts of power but will usually be lower than that since im assuming you will be watching youtube and stuff.
and not only benchmarking and playing games.
basically anything above 1400 makes no sense.
unless you dont care
so if the load is like 600w, and the psu is 1200w. you will sit close to that 50% area, but if you do 1000w psu it is no longer a 50% workload but a 60% workload which is worse than a 40% workload at least for modern psus. however, 1000w and staying around the 60% workload area is pefectly fine and you probably wont sustain around there for long.
Yes but the load is only that high when you are gaming so it really depends on what your average gaming times are.
a 1400w psu by comparison would also be only 43% not 40% too which isnt much, but you are basically still peaking with a 1400w psu
whereas a 1000w has less going for it, its not bad at all, but why choose the shorter end of the stick.
im still considering 1000w psus and 1200w psus tho
in fact i have specifically hand picked those ones based off their tier
here is my full notes on it
there is a lot of speculation on the psus that just came out
so its hard to say much about some of them
im willing to add any psu that anyone recommends tho
meanwhile an 850w psu with a 600w workload would be about 71%
and a 1600w psu with a 600w workload would be 37.5%
there is a really good chance i wont be going a psu above 1600w which we can finally say for certain
before all this i was considering the m2000, but i dont think i will be now
I honestly think this fits your build the best but its really a matter of whether or not you care for whether its on the list or not https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hMCZxr/be-quiet-dark-power-pro-13-1300-w-80-titanium-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn500
any other 2000w psu, ended up not being on the tier list at all, or was just flat out bad.
If we want to play it safe see if you can find a pro 12 in a nearby microcenter
this is A tier
but the efficiency isnt listed
it's relatively compact at 180mm
but the m2000 is better than this
since it is safer and cheaper of a purchase
and they are both beat out by the dark power 13
i did see this
i was immediately interested
i think its speculated to have good quality parts but it is a bit of a risk still just not knowing since it is such a new psu
because the dark power pro 12 is amazing
so the dark power pro 13 is hopeful
I don't see anything bad about it online, I especially like their warranty.
in fact i already have both the 1300w and 1600w versions in the list
Must've missed them.
fully modular W
Pretty much every PSU we are looking at is modular.
realistically i would probably get this one if i went dark power at all
but this one is basically the same thing but cheaper and better
it is 180mm instead of 200
50 more watts and $60 less
these two psus almost make the axi look inferior cause so far all i see is an additional 50w for $200
i like the branding tbh, but that just doesnt make sense
I can't say i would go with anything above that anyways so if you want that psu get it imo.
its basically what you want anyways based off of what you have been saying.
can't see why it would be a bad choice besides not being atx 3.0
but the darkpower pro 12 isnt either iirc
only reason atx 3.0 matters btw is looks.
i think i showed you the cable mess the adapters make on my 4080
atx 3.0 turns 3 needed cords into just 1 needed cord right
4 since you have a 4090 but yes
kinda ugly but doesnt really matter that much besides taking 15 more seconds when building your comp
Are you getting custom cables for your psu or keeping those stock?
Completely unrelated question btw.
probably stock at first
damn so 4 into 1 with atx 3.0
ik what you meant
did you mean that 4 is now 1 instead of 4 goes into 1?
yeah
might have misinterpreted that lol.
atx 3.0 still makes it 1 cord even if 4 would have been required
thats really nice tbh
Yes
what else is there to compare tho?
i can compare the atx12v specifaction
some will be atx12v 3.0 or atx12v 2.0 etc
Nothing, atx 3.0 is only for the 12vhpwr cable.
ik its relatively very helpful but overall p minor
yeah
basically only reason i recommend atx 3.0 is becasue you dont give a shit about budget.
$$$
but i guess the cost will be about even if you plan on getting cable mod or other custom cables in the future
yeah i dont
since you can cut 3 cables out of the cost
i will probably end up going atx 3.0
tbh idk about any of these
can a psu have all of them lol
how do i check to see if the psu has these
any power supply you will be buying will have all of those
and how to i check for sure if it is atx 3.0
The 12vhpwr connector at the back of the psu
oh wow so you can have all of them and multiple
usually pcpartpicker has photos of the back of the psu
is there a place to check for the supported protections?
i was told the 12vhpwr connector doesnt mean it is atx 3.0 tho
manufactures website, they love bragging about marketing spiel.
so psus have a manufacturers website just like mobos too
meh, doesn't really need to be 3.0 just needs to have the connector and be A-A+ imo
or A
not A * too risky
oh also the connectors
ive seen people make the back io of the psu into a big deal
like "oh i got this psu because it had an additional blah blah connector"
what connectors are important and how many do you need of each
i kind of remember some but i didnt learn all of them
the 2 main ones is the 24 pin motherboard and the eps
after that it's the pcie/gpu ones
then it's sata & molex
the '*' just means it's in speculative position
yeah
it's not a tier
+/-/* is for their legend so they (psu cultist) know what to put it as on the website itself
for the website
and speculative just means it can go fully Tier A, or go tier A low priority or drop to B
yeah ik that too
no point in buying a psu with less testing and less reviews only to later find out it dropped to B
but for what you want we all suggested to go tier A just for the ease
well yeah i dont want B tier
there is a point, and that point is, the system will be fine
im not looking for fine tho
it would be bad if it suddenly drop to tier E/F instead
yeah
but why buy a B tier psu when you could have an A tier psu
and why take a chance on a speculative psu
when not enough info is out to say it is definitively well placed within that tier being A or B or C
pricing
Also why opt in for buying a low priority psu, when you have this time now with the money available to you to buy an A gold psu
and i've also shown an example a long way back where a bronze rated psu (tier B) completely out performed a gold rated psu (tier F)
if you showed that example i dont remember it
and i also dont understand how that is possible
originally the p750gm was rated tier A for a short while til it exploding happened
i can even point out a brand that got a psu gold rated only to swap parts out for it to be bronze rated instead after just so they can claim the psu is still gold rated with out retesting
it's as easily possible as having a platinum rated psu being a bomb instead and having it nuke your system completely
yeah then that psu belonged in tier F.
ive already included and considered gold and platinum options
bronze rated psu selected, gold coloured on the tier B list (literally is a silver rated psu til they did away with the silver ratings)
are you saying to consider silver or bronze too
gold rated psu, no colouring added on the list, tier F, explodes
i was just confused by the word rated at first. im not anymore
nope, what i'm saying is you never select a psu to buy, by it's efficiency rating
well that's good cause i didnt
said company that has a fake gold rated psu that really a bronze rated psu
if it wasn't for those in the psu cultist network creating this tier list we'd never know about some of the stunts some manufacturers have gone to
Gigabyte 🫠
im p sure gamemax is all tier E
Great brand, but has 1 exceptionally bad model of PSU
nope
1 complete bad line
It says right all unit soooo @arctic lotus
a lot of brands have at least 1 bad tier psu
what?
That pictures shows all gamemax units to be F tier
That’s what I said
yeah its bad
yes, evga has 3 lines that are tier F, and a further 3 that are tier E, the tier F ones well one of them catches on fire
Anything below C tier I personally wouldn’t even consider for a budget build
nah, you said model, which would just be a p750gm, not a whole line
Buying a $500 pc and putting a $40 PSU in it…is just not worth it
well thats cause D tier is for igpu builds
The model would be the P-GM model lol
it is, but for $40 you get a tier C psu straight away
750 and 850
that's a whole line
I wouldn’t call it a line seeing as theirs only 2. It’s just two variants of the same model
Two garbage PSUs
2 models from a production line
which funnily enough was designed by a company that makes power bricks for laptops which gigabyte basically paid to have them design
on the odd occasion, if you're very smart you can get a brand new tier A or B psu for $40
is this psu atx 3.0
I had a Corsair CX750M which is an exceptional C tier PSU. And was OCing my 7900 xtx and 5800x and then upgraded to a EVGA supernova g2 1300w and couldn’t be happier
i wonder?
I got mine for $60 1300w Supernova G2
its like
okay cool
Normally like $200+
it said it on it's name, but it doesnt say anothing on pcpp
wtf 10 years warranty
originally i had an aerocool intergrator mod 750w (tier D at the time) which is a tier F which i paid something like £70-80 for
swapped it out for a corsair tx650m (gold) for £60, it wasn't even on the tier list till a month or so later, end up finding out it's a tier A psu
i can say for sure it's worth being a tier A psu after going through 3 powercuts in a single day
Mine was a return and I also got it on sale 
my b12 is decent so far
i need to get another decent psu to swap out the one in my mum's pc
she has a pc i built from my spare parts that's worth around £400 at the time
though it has said tier F psu inside it
i missed out on getting another tx650m that was on sale for £45
still though, it means you can get a more decent psu for less than over spending for a psu that can be majorly worser
what chair are you gunna get?
Don’t start her on peripherals
she wants luxury, so it's going to have to be a herman miller
the one i just got?
dunno but if she's planning on blowing 5k of a pc, i suspect 1.5k on a chair will be spent
That chair all together was $2047
im not the chair kind of girl
if i had a house or something
but i am literally moving out and most likely with someone or most likely into a van
if i wanted to show people my personality through my house decor i will just bust out animal crossing like bruh
i will get a 2nd switch before i get a house to own a chair
a pink chair though omg that would be so so cute. like those ones with the cat ears 🥺
i would happily spend a couple thousand on something like that.
you can expect this for the monitor tho
put it this way, herman miller is top of the line for computer chairs
okie
One Day ill have a set up as Overkill as you (one Day)
i was gonna ask about that
Fr same for me
nah bad choices for what she wants to do
is g9 overkill
until it cracks
cause if so i want it
and Samsung refuses warrenty
It would be like using the death Star on a mosquito Overkill
Let’s put it this way if I’m buying it then it’s over kill lol and i already purchased it
might be a bit too big if its going in a van
it's a curved monitor but totally unusable for what you want to do, especially if used in a van
so i could just copy your build
i almost got those sabrents
you could but you won'd be able to make use of it's performance
Not trying to be rude but it might be out of your budget
whats the build so far
$27k i think
no i mean the link
I have an old on it’s not up to day 1 sec
Part List - Intel Core i9-13900KS, GeForce RTX 4090, Corsair 7000D AIRFLOW ATX Full Tower
did the ks drop in price??
I think if we update it it should be at 30k or over in price
the noctua's and mouse are not that great tbh
Yeah it’s an old list
So much has changed to more overkill stuff
The keyboard I’m building is like $1.5k
yeab, but those $32 nocuta fans loose out to a $9 arctic fan
did the 13900ks really drop that much in price?
wtf
With all the 14 gen talk they are trying to sell all the stock
ngl but you guys will hate me if thats true lmao
yes it did, still not a cpu to use for gaming purposes
lmaooo
3% gains over what you're using, nothing but what you can already get from an OC
Apparently it’s 15%
it looses out against a 7800x3d when it comes to gaming
is that with an oc?
yup
both tbh
how much did it win by?
depends on the game tbh
for future reference, that's 493w on the 13900k
as for gaming, and with the 4090 showing a bottleneck (1080p after all)
495w on the 'KS'
13900k/ks + 4090 = 1kw minimum needed but a 1.2kw psu is better, and that 1.6kw psu he selected is perfect due to his use case
everything loses out to the 7800x3d
i joined this server because of the 7800x3d lol
it's the most efficient cpu for gaming, 5800x3d being second to that
nah
I play at 4K so i don’t have much of a reason to upgrade to it 🫠
If I didn’t I’d upgrade
also why are you going for the 4 sabrents
also why two kits of 2x32gb ram
and not one kit of 4x32gb ram?
its better than the 13900k
ks was just an overpriced option before. this changes everything
Does it tho
afaik it has the best productivity performance out of any cpu right now for a consumer workstation.
followed by imo the 13900k
then the 7950x
then the 7950x3d
it also outperforms the 13900k in gaming
idk how it fairs against the 7950x in gaming but of course the 7950x3d and the 7800x3d are better in gaming
yeah but its ass in productivity.
Its not really lol its a current gen processor comparatively to last gen its pretty solid if you look at it that way
13900KS + 4090 is really meh if you seriously need that type of processing power look at the xeon or epyc lineup
And the 13900ks is ass at being cooled
Yeah only aios that can even semi cool it are lf2s and custom looping
You almost need a custom loop for 13900ks
im most concerned about the power consumption
well its a 400 watt chip and the "Efficiency" cores are not efficient at all
where did you get 400 watts from?
if this is your first pc your gonna have a massive Eectricity bill spike
You got the fucking raminator eating all your power
Well with out power limits and very good cooler 400W is not shocking
raminator?
are you saying 400w isnt that bad
Don’t worry abt it it’s a joke
What’s the part list so far
Tech power up with stock just with removed power limits got over 400w
Because intel motherboards push way too much voltage
Well if intel cpu vc cure need it well that intel problem
it is not good
well
its not good or bad tbh
Bad compared to the 7950x3d
To fill all the nvme slots
Over clocking reasons
Michael is overclocker
yeah horrible compared to the 7950x3d
120 tdp, 140w ish irl
continuous load
Well any 4 stick config is bad any way
why did you go for qlc though, are these going to be your bulk drives?
And 4x32 and 2x2x32 is that same but 4x32 was test to work as 1 kit
yeah, but isnt it safer to go 4x32
ive heard that if you even mix the same kit like a 2x32 and another 2x32 together, it could be bad.
and its like the same everything
if that's not the case and buying 2x2x32 is completely fine with no issues that's great
The same exact kit is probably fine
4x kits are much less common and a lot more expensive
ive also heard that its completely false, and that mixing kits is mostly fine to an extent
cause that's kind of a big deal for me personally
cause i could just do a 2x kit now and get another 2x kit later
instead of a 4x kit now
or if i get a 4x kit now, i could first time boot with 2 sticks and then experiment with 4 sticks
Don’t get 4 ram sticks lol
Not always
And 4 dimms on ddr5 is just bad idea if you want any good speed or want to oc since daisy chain
And more imc load
Yes
But there a some user who just like lots of ram
But I like fast 16gb over slower 32gb
2133 was not about not to get error fast with 4x8gb but 2x8gb 2400 easy to get running stable now I going into the hell of tunings timings
Yeah
It’s not even that hard to get fast 32GB anyway
i have 64 gigs ofn ram and oh boy i can run valo, discord and csgo all at once
all the high mem apps
Well I am not buy more ddr3
Oh ddr3
ddr5 is the latest innit?
Yep
Yes
Ddr4 is faster for some thing eg PiPrime but the records was set on intel 11 series due to i having better imc then 12 series
but doesnt qlc endurance suck
ok then why is micheal going 4 sticks
Honestly it depends
Because I’m crazy lol
but you oc
To flex the capacity of slow ram
I got faster ram then I’m expecting to run at that way i can get 4 stick to run at what i want
192gb of ram is over kill for most
cause i wanted to do a qlc drive for my bulk drive and i was told no lmao
And but 96gb now that’s ok since you get that in 2 sticks
so you ram that is rated for higher MT/s
and you think that will make the ram not slow down as much
Yeah knowing it won’t hit that high but still be high
But daisy chain mobo hate 2dpc
also, what does the godlike have that you plan to use?
The nvme slots
And price tag
And 10 gig network
Thunderbolt 4
I hate my .05gbit internet
that's not really a good specific reason, there are other mobos that have all of that.
does it really have 7
Yeah
Wym?
cause i thought with a cold storage bulk drive, you wouldnt read and write to it as much so i was thinking that a qlc drive would work best for a bulk drive but i was told no
I’ll be using my bull drives daily. The files i work with range from 1 gb files to 100gb files for work all day long
I honestly don’t care about the nitty gritty i wanted fast drive with lots of capacity
so wouldnt it be a bad idea to go qlc then if you are going to be reading / writing to those drives on the daily
that cant be good
they arent even fast tho
which is why im having a hard time understanding
i mean for a bulk drive gen 4 is plenty
gen 4 always fast, but its still qlc
ig im just wondering why not gen 4 tlc
or gen 5 for someone like you
i see the t700. im going one as well
Crucial T700 4TB Gen5 NVMe M.2 SSD - Up to 12,400 MB/s - DirectStorage Enabled - CT4000T700SSD3 - Gaming, Photography, Video Editing & Design - Internal Solid State Drive https://a.co/d/f0RASG5
Are you ready to feel the rush of extreme performance? The Crucial T700 PCIe 5.0 NVMe SSD offers speeds of up to 12,400MB/s sequential reads and up to 11,800MB/s sequential writes** (up to 1,500K IOPS random reads/writes**) for faster gaming, video editing, 3D rendering and heavy workload applica...
This is my boot drive
that should be fine, but its more a main drive with your os on it. i wouldnt call it a dedicated boot drive.
Yeah
why have you decided not to go a dedicated boot drive btw?
The pc is already gunna boot on the matter of seconds I’m not gunna worry to much about that
also i only see the t700, and the 4 sabrents. are you still working on searching for the last drive?
I rather get more storage
last 2 drives i mean
Prolly two more sabrents
actually your boot speed shouldnt be much faster than anyone elses really, but that's okay.
ive heard about your work, but can you remind me why you need so much storage.
Design files i use my home pc as one of my backups
I have all my files saved on a NAS at my office. Then a cloud backup then i also have a back up on my pc
are you like an artist
oh nice, what kind of prints
I designed, printed, wrapped, then photographed this truck as a example of my work
The whole package was like $20k
maybe if i get a van i will pay you to do my vanlife van
where is it
that's where im going
ohh
the rest of the state is still beautiful
is it like, possible to do most of your read and writing to your t700 and just keep your sabrents as cold storage
cause if so, i would totally, go like 1 of those.
also why are you doing the fe
on pcpp it's $2500
frozen notte 360mm and deepcool lt720 also
it is, it's where you need a 1200w -1600w psu to power the system
you got to realise, his system is based on what he does for work, though he could of gone with a 13700k
also you got to realise, using a 13900k/ks means no van life at all, ever @arctic lotus
7800x3d/7950x3d you will still have a chance of it
how much was yours again
like 600w continuous load
528w roughly, but i use a ryzen 5 3600 + rx580
so the inverter's continuous load has to be greater than the continuous load of all the pc parts or the psu?
for an inverter, it would need to be able to handle more than just the pc
as you may want to use something else at the same time as said pc
ther are certain things you'd run straight off a battery
i.e. rv pump, lighting, fans for airflow
why not just have 2 inverters
totally unnecessary
why
also you're working with limited room
yeah but that doesnt matter if something become impossible
well you won't be using an inverter in a house
it can't just be the continuous load of the parts cause the psu has to draw an extra amount of power to make up for it's lack in efficiency
as you'll be tied to the mains grid
so it must be the continuous load of the psu
which is probably not the max rated wattage
it would probably be less than that, but more than the pc parts.
idk how much power the rest of the parts use yet. but im already up to at least 600w
an estimated 600w**
thats what i said
but pcpp's estimated wattage never covers for transient spikes let alone if someone is going to OC
600w can be just the gpu alone
the continuous load of the 7950x3d is around 140w
that's when gaming, combined with a 4090, that will be 740-750w
remember the "official wattage" from nvidia is 450w, they don't disclose it's transient spike
and they do this with all their gpu's
the 3090 is labelled as a 350w gpu, yet with transient spikes it easily does 500-550w
ik the aibs can push 600w
no, this is not pushing it to 600w
this is a power spike that happens
im saying at least 600w because 120w + 480w
a transient spike, is a power spike/surge that happens in tha matter of microseconds to seconds
ik what a transient spike is
do you?, do you really?
yeah
do you know how to account for them when looking at what psu you will want?
no
the old addage for psu is look at the total wattage of gpu + cpu and then add 50w for head room
but that does not account for spikes
what you would do is have a 100-200w head room
50w of that covers for everything else that's plugged into the motherboard mainly, and 100-150w covers for transient spikes
it is why a fair few of us here have told you that you won't need more than 1.2kw for a psu
200w of headroom, honestly i thought that was the bare min headroom. not the 50w
or 100w
so you dont compare the continuous load of the cpu + gpu + other peripherals (the full wattage of the system.)
you compare the max power of the system
to the continuous load of the inverter (not the max wattage of the inverter)
i do yes, for some that might sound wrong, but you would have to realise specifically in a van while your pc is on, and you wanted to have a drink of tea/coffee at the same time, you would need to combine the wattages of the 2
or turn 1 off to use the other
400w-1kw is a rough estimate but there are higher wattage ones for the heating element, and still you would need to be able to handle both being on at the same time
what is the power consumption of the 13900ks
495-497w if power unlocked, but around 300w if not
so yeah you want the continuous load of the inverter to be equal to or higher than the psu wattage
the 11700k can hit 442-447w, 12900k can hit 450w, and 13900k can max out at 493w, while the 13900ks will do 495-497w maxed out
higher than the psu wattage
yeah for other things
a 1kw pc build you'd want it to handle a 2kw continuous load
most inverters are quite inefficient
any transient spikes that a gpu has should be covered by the psu, but it doesn't mean it couldn't cause a surge in the inverter
tbh, it sounds like you are exaggerating
which is why i also said about reading up on the inverter's info
might sound it, but i'm not
When will pc need there own power breaker
if you got an inverter to match your system, it's continous load will be around half it's peak load
we're already at that for an american home
Well 2.4kw is Standard for the most outlets and then we can get 50%. More power to outlets were just 15 amp plugs in Australia but we do have a 32A plug standard
in the uk, at maximum we can do 4kw out of a socket
okay so an inverter is like a giant psu, and i basically want to get as high as possible
the circuit breaker can be either 32a if it's ring mains, or 16a if it's done on a by room bases, on a star main it can be 16 or 32a
but the plugs themselves are fitted with either a 3, 5 or 13a fuse in most cases
yes but instead of converting AC to dc, it converts DC to ac
12/24/36/48v dc being the voltages being used to convert from when it comes to an inverter
okay, yeah. im p sure i will still be able to do vanlife if i do the 13900ks
not that it would be right away
only if you used a 6kw inverter from the get go, not a 3kw one
and despite that, the heat output of a 13900k/ks is the main part of what would be preventing you
it's a cpu where a 360mm aio is minium requirement for it
or to go custom loop
then ill just go the 360mm aio
and even then custom loop in a vehicle is not a great choice
pretty limited to 3 decent aio's then to handle it
i wont do custom loop
deepcool lt720 (360mm), arctic liquid freezer 2 360mm, thermalright frozen notte 360mm
and due to the gpu you want to use, it means you now need a case that can handle 2x 360mm rads
so we'd be definitely looking at something like a corsair 5000d airflow as minimum
as it can handle up to 3x 360mm rads on it
though i should have said earlier, your gpu choice prevents you from doing an itx build more so
mATX/ATX only will be your choices
though as you want ATX primarily it means going mid ATX or full ATX case
5000d af = mid ATX case
7000d af = full ATX case
I have a LS720 which is functionally the same as the LT720 besides the rgb and I like it a lot.
yup, the pump and fans realistically are the only difference between them
The pump is the same, only difference is looks iirc.
thought the pumps had a minor difference in it's tuning
You're right.
Interesting.
LT720 is the first one and LS is second btw
the ls720se might be more similar to the lt720 pump wise
pretty sure rather than the pump being tuned differently it is the previous generation of their pump
for the SE
possibly but newer gen pumps will mean improvements, so some of it will be in it's tuning
as some gens it may mean a whole new redesign from the ground up rather than a minor modification
No no it’s not. Not at full load it’s way higher
TDP is pretty much a useless metric to see how much wattage a cpu will pull nowadays
For example my 5800x has a TDP of 105w and regularly pulls 145w+ under full load with an undervolt and slight OC it was higher before I undervolted
its tdp is 120w
At full load it will pull more then 120w
that's what i said lmao
Well it’s still higher then 140w lol
140 is pretty close
It’s actually around 165+
It's like 150 under full load
According to public benchmarks at stock clock
Gamer nexus test had it at 156
Either way still not far off from 140
so it would seem that the 13900ks is basically on par in gaming with the 7950x3d
but i would still say the 7950x3d is slightly better in gaming.
but hardly
it's much better in gaming in benchmarks where the 13900ks had to use the same ram speed as the 7950x3d likely 6000
but when a 13900ks ddr5 7200 is compared with the 7950x3d ddr5 6000, it either performs better or on par most of the time, and sometimes is slightly worse.
13900ks gonna be way better in most productivity tasks though, i don't think anyone should buy it for gaming
oh nevermind lmao, the price went back up
that $450 price tho, was insane.
would have made the $200 price hike on the 7950x3d so hard to go for
because taking the additional productivity performance + the almost on par gaming performance would have been more worth it imo
is there a place to look at inverters and compare their metrics like pcpp?
this one can do 1200w continuous load but it's a 2400w inverter
i could have a dedicated inverter for the pc
no, use a single inverter that can run everything
techspot btw@runic bloom@desert mist
Yea the data I got I think was just in general computing around 165w but still proves TDP is a useless metric
yeah but its possible
finding an inverter that does 2kW or 3kW continuous load might be hard to find
im already aware of power consumption