#building my 1st pc
1 messages · Page 8 of 1
When I chose the dark power 13, I just started a the top, saw “atx 3.0” and went through that list until I found a good one,
the dark power 13 fit the bill well because it’s 1kW (so not super overkill, has the 12vHiPWR plug, titanium efficiency (which was chosen when she wanted van life the first time), and is A tier on the psu tier list
so we've had 12vhpwr apart since atx 1.0?
What?
only original atx before atx 1.0 didnt
no, 12vhpwr didn't exist til atx 3.0
i thought atx 2.0 had it
Was only 6 and 8 pin prior
And cableless (all power through pcie slot
Not afaik
There’s a reason we didn’t have it until 30 series and 40 series (which necessitated the plug in the first place)
no, and you're kinda twisting what i said
not kinda, are
so why is the specification called atx12v 1.0 then
because very first iteration of that specific specification most likely
ig im just confused on the 12v part
refer to the pin. if youre not going to help, dont message
cl30
im thinking maybe something like this
you mean 96
96GB total
what??
the reason is because 48GB modules should have hynix M die
iirc, theyre micron
what is?
we gonna manufacture our own chips at this point?
$380 FOR RAM???
What on earth
the 24/48GB modules are micron
Holy smokes
if you arent going to help just leave
bro, theyre 48GB sticks.
no im p sure it guarantees hynix M ICs
But what if I have the same problem as you?
and that is?
Uh
ultimatum still stands. either contribute meaningfully, or dont message. idc if you watch, just dont message
nuh uh
same for you ngl
nope nuh uh
Real 💯
im going to report you both if you dont stop
this is only making the thread longer, the exact thing that youre "complaining" about, chase
:3
i dont think this is true, but the vengence might be
regardless, youre getting that corsair kit. fine, idc. what about psu? dark power 13? (its so good)
saltyyyy
i thought earlier you crossed it off meaning you didnt like it no more
no, that was just because i recommended it so many times. its kinda like im saying it without actually saying it....confusing lol
who?
yall
im tired of trolls here (idfc what you say, no one has actual proof this is a troll thread)
or people who just complain about how long its taking or how many messages there are
ok
lmfao
you cant?
Nah
thats garbage
i can't believe anyone even remotely thinks im trolling
would you have paid $190 in 2019 for ram?
moving on, i wanna power through some components here. you have the ram. i could have something to say, but its all already been said. psu, honestly get the dark power 13 (or the corsair 1600i if you must)
for psu, im going to look into some gold and platinum psus
for ram, im just looking into not going corsair cause maybe corsair loves micron lol
i love the way corsair looks, but tbh, i really want that M die
both of these units are titanium efficency (which i think would be better for van life because of the lower from-the-wall power draw
but what if a platinum or gold psu has the A+ rating too
maybe those should be options as well
but the thing is, why look elsewhere when the pretty much best options are right here
my best advice i can give you is get the dark power 13 (its cheaper and not as stupidly overkill)
i agree, but idk it was recommended to me
what was
pretty sure there are a lot more titanium than gold efficency psus at the higher end
what you dont understand is that there's no reason to "consider other options" bc the two basically best options are right here, [Dark Power 13, ax1600i]
should i look into anything below 1200w?
The dark power 13 1000w
Seriously, save yourself a week of research and use that one
You’ll be wonderfully pleased with it
The dark power 13 is cheaper than some 850w models :0
I wish that was the case for where I live, at least the PQ1000M was decently priced here.
You probably wouldn’t need 1000w tho
???
The few psus I did check that were 850w were more expensive
And since this is an overkill rig (no one can argue with that), it’s gonna be at least 1 kW
Would save power usage since you want to target 80% also they are going to be using this in a van iirc.
Yeah, so titanium is actually a really good thing
Brother, that psu costs the same as a mid range build
In canada
But yeah, no less than 1kW for this build
In the us, it does not at all
What is the budget?
There isn’t really one, but it’ll probably be like $7k
Yeah, and midranged is around $1k imo
Damn
post says 7k but idk if plans have changed
More like $900 imo
“Around”
Yeah
The budget is really unlimited, dream just put that there so ppl would stop asking
My build is just below $900 and I think it’s pretty good for new parts
But anyway, $300 is not the cost of a midranged pc
I was looking at the $700
I didn’t know it was Canadian
Makes sense
Do you have the current parts list?
makes sense
Yeah its kind of stupidly priced here.
7950x3d
4090 liquid suprim
96GB vengeance rgb
Optane p1600x (boot)
Crucial t700 (x2)
oh god not the optane
Optane p1600x?
yeah
Tf is an optane
Intel drive, look it up
an enterprise ssd or some shit idfk amynore
not really good idea unless you got money to throw around
Which they have apparently
Still not a good idea, because you should throw your money at something more useful, like the stock market
no throw money at csgo cases
No case yet?
I said useful
or cs2 at least
Nah
like delia
so 1000w models are okay too?
850, but I’d really say 1kW
is there any downsides of going lower?
For breathing room, and this is overkill galor
i mean it's certainly cool lol
Leave now
You’re trolling
isnt my parts like 650w max
is the extra 200w for a total of 850w just for the required headroom
That’s why 850w is the minimum, but 1kW is better
so that means anything above 850w is just bonus then?
any downsides of going 850w instead of 1000w?
@arctic lotus how do you like this case?
Yeah, extra breathing room and higher quality components
tbh, i dont understand mesh
Nothing other than transients possibly tripping the protection (tho I think it’s fixed for the most part)
I just think it’s a cool case
Wdym
what are transients
When the gpu pulls like twice its wattage for a few microseconds
And if the psu cuts in too quickly, it can turn off your system for protection
Which can be really bad
Why not
oh but thats been fixed
is it only that one psu or is it like a thing
which part did they fix to resolve the issue basically
A lot of high quality psus would trip too soon
They delayed the protection circuitry
oh okay, so people fixed their psus
yeah
How do you like this one?
That’s a great case. However, case design is a big personal preference
does it come with these rgb fans
Yes
But you can always get different fans
Yep, as well as fan and rgb controllers
maybe, idk black cases look cheap to me tbh
I assure you they’re not. But as i said, it’s a personal preference
I love the look to it
If it existed when I built my pc, I’d probably have saved like $50 on the case and fans
I’m using it for my build
Are we talking about cases now?
It’s under $900USD and on AM5
I think?
Chase asked about it and then linked his fav
Please, just get the dark power 13 :D
@arctic lotus what color would you like the case?
pink
I got a few good options for pink lol
okay good
So what’s the form factor?
Hold off for now, we’re still on psus. I wanna finish with them
Alright
if you want, just spam my dms with cases you like
i will look at every single one
i will find the message request
@arctic lotus what’s your psu choice?
Niche af
It looks like a spaceship 💀
Rip dust filters
LOVE this one
For the love of god get a basic case 🙏
if i was held at gun point rn to choose one. im literally choosing this one. what
You’re gonna have to install fans tho
And a Rgb controller (if they’re rgb)
i mean okay, that means nothing to me
idk what any of that means tbh
Bro
like how does it not have fans lmao
Also you haven’t answered my question. What psu are you getting
and what is a rgb controller
A hub for your rgb
Seriously just get the dark power 13
Cross off all higher than 1600 right now
is there any downsides to going higher??
Yes
like?
Needing a bigger inverter for your van
not doing a van
Vehicle
no i mean not doing vanlife
Oh
Needing a bigger inverter for your van
There’s a van?
Still will trip most 120v 15a breakers
any other downsides
When was there a van involved
what is a 120v 15a breaker
Obsessively expensive
You live in a van?
okay,
120 volt 15 Amp breaker
any other downsides
I don’t think they understand electricity
what is the A
is that amps
What the fuck why
i thought amps was I
maybe I is for formulas only
Yes
okay so what does 15 amps even mean lol
Use a wattage calculator if you don’t know how to do the math for this it will make your life easier
Amps, 15 of them.what the fuck
so like
Yes
However many amps it can supply is the amount of current available in the circuit
so things can have amps and volts at the same time?
More amps, more power. Less amps, less power
ik things can have watts and volts at the same time
Power (watts) = amps x volts
Amps x volts = watts
amps are like magma, watts are like lava
Magma fruit

From one piece
lmao how?
Watts is power
I seriously don’t know how to explain this
You just need context
But it doesn’t fucking matter anyway
Just get the fucking dark power 13 please
You dont need a degree in electrical engineering to build a computer just use a calculator
That’s an ass analogy
Unless it somehow makes sense in your weird brain
makes perfect sense to me
Use one message dawg
That’s lame tho
You’re not helping
the thing with magma and lava is they are kind of the same. but magma is lava that is inside of the earth that hasnt come out yet.
and lava is magma that has come out of the volcano
amps is the electricity in the current. watts is the power coming out
its all electricity, but the amps are the power inside
Yes
watts are the power shooting out ig lmao

Drop the “shooting out” lmao
Ong
My last advice before I go to bed:
Dark power 13 for the psu. It will lot disappoint.
Gn yall
Gn pookie
Ima stop you there
This is a tech server 😭
@arctic lotus did you see the cases I sent you in dms?
yes
I’m not pookie wtf
I’m joking 😭
Smh
Oh, we are sharing cases? In that case I recommend the Fractal Design Pop Air XL
YO
THE XBOX 360
Is that the 360e?
It’s not
You can get it in white and if you care about hot swapping your hard drives or having a dvd drive for movies you already have there are 2 5.25” external bays
Removable cover so it does t look like ass
if you do share cases, i just need the link otherwise i will never find them
comes in white too
Do you want a link for where to purchase it?
pcpp links work best
Part List - Fractal Design Pop XL Air ATX Full Tower
WTF its super cheap in the states
no fair
i bought mine for 150$ CAD
wow my internet cut out
oh yeah only $100
nvm CAD is just ass rn
Any ways this case was really easy to build in and had all of the features I wanted so im pretty happy with it.
Even has an ARGB controller.
I use a case button to change my rgb and have the rest turned off in bios since rgb software is a ram hog. (Not necessary, just a habit from when I had 8gb in my old rig as to not waste any...)
my cpu and gpu will have 600w tdp
and one issue with going over 1200w psu is efficiency decrease
it falls off harder the closer you get to 1200w
but you always want your psu wattage to be double the system requirements
so far, all ik is that my system requires minimum 600w
the 7950x3d is 120w and the suprim liquid x is 480w
so actually, im p sure, 1000w is off limits to me
but not horrible
80+ titanium is like 90% on the whole efficiency curve tho
*at least 90%
that's true, titanium is flatter. so that means lower power loads are better than usual. so like 0-50% is better, than that of like plat or gold etc.
but they all drop off p hard after 50-60% ish
tit less so tho cause its flatter
but still thats one reason to not go 2000w
and thats another reason to not go 1000w
1000w will fall off harder than 1400w tho
🗿 get a dark power pro 12 1200 watt then
what im saying, is
i probably will not identify psus that are lower than 1200w
im gonna stick to 1200w+
plus the extra headroom is still good for transients
i might not go 2000w tho for the same reasons, but those reasons are weaker there.
2000w is mostly just about money.
idk why 2000w means 13 amps tho
if volts and amps and watts are all apart of the same formula then all psus should have watts amps and volts
not just 2 of them
another downside of 2000w is length
i want it to be as small as possible and its honestly not worth it
cause most 2000w psus are 200mm
im not an electrician but im pretty sure you can assume the voltage to be 120 volts for obvious reasons.
i have identified all the plat psus 1250+
i am working on gold, i wont bother with silver
Most houses in NA have 120/240 volt running through them.
It’s 120 for normal outlets
so 120 OR 240v AC?
Yes and for workshops and what not you can expect 240 in at least some outlets.
im gonna be real with you
here in the states, none of us know, and none of care. they might as well all be 120v
its not even a thing people think about
yeah but assume 120v AC
No, spec it so your power usage a little less than 80% of the capacity of the psu for optimal efficiency
And later upgrade breathing room
You are wrong
80%
The 80+ certification is for 80% power utilization.
that's not the same thing
ive also seen charts and people also say it's 50-60%
80+ white is just for 80% efficiency at the 3 loads or whatever
tit adds a 4th load to the specification at 10% cause it can actually do lower well
cause psus struggle with big loads and small loads
so there is a bell curve.
And the bell curve is basically flat at the high end
its flat at the beginning of the line
not the end
and its only flatter if you go titanium
not for gold
And since you’re not doing van life, it doesn’t matter near as much. Get the 1000w dark power 13 please,
And that’s what I’m talking about
I looked around and it looks like you were right
just get a dark power 13 pro or smth if you want to stay inbetween 50-60%
all of these are gold psus
the white line is the regular rating of the gold specification
so basically plat and titanium follow suit, but the psu itself depending on it's wattage will make the line flatter
I give up. You’re not listening to reason
still remains to be a steep drop off after reaching anything more than 50% load
which will be reached earlier with a lower wattage psu
600w tdp doesnt mean it actually draws 600w either 24 7 and because it's not 100% efficiency it actually has to pull more than 600w to supply 600w. because a % of it is lost to the lack of efficiency in forms of heat
just keep in mind you wont be using your systems 100% possible power draw all the time and that would only happen in synthetic loads so 1000-1200 would be best.
so lower efficiency psus are also hotter on average
which is another reason to not go gold or plat
that's literally what i just got done talking about
but 1000w is not what i would recommend to someone who has money for a luxury psu
Yeah but you were saying this earlier
you dont want more than 1200
itll work but im not looking for something that would work
yeah im still saying that
im not going to do more research and identify more psus below 1200w
no
its a waste of time to probably even look at 1000w as options
600w *2 = 1200w.
the specification would argue that 1000w is as efficient as 1400w.
but the psu itself depending on it's wattage in tangent to it's efficiency will improve it's efficiency.
so 1000w is worse than 1400w for a system like this, not to mention the additional power draw from the lack in efficiency
not to mention oc and xoc desire.
not to mention future proof desire. if i ever upgrade my cpu or gpu in the future, what if i dont get lucky with a cpu that is as low wattage as the 7950x3d. or what if the trend with power hungry gpus continues? like sure the next system would be able to supply me, but im gonna probably lose out on efficiency that i had before if i optimize now. 1000w doesnt optimize for now and it doesnt optimize for the future.
1200w is a much better choice for right now.
then you would probably want something like thishttps://pcpartpicker.com/list/yhHdsL
Part List
ive already identified this one on my list
however, this is unlikely to be a purchase because it is not tiered on the tier list
so it would be a risky buy
like sure dark power has good stuff
but not everything is A+
the dark power pro 12 1200w or 1500w are something i would buy
could someone help me #1159366894499934208
not for sale anymore
well there are plenty of other options
i would rather go the ax1600i which creeper recommended as well
Also good choice but a bit excessive.
pls
i will say the efficiency curve is only a minor influence as it is + or - 3%
thats liike the whole point of this build mostly
true
it's actually not a waste of time, the waste of time was looking for a psu over 1200w
as psu's get more and more efficient you only need to use lower wattages for the psu, and as for the setup you want 1200w is the ideal psu wattage
the biggest load a psu always has is the transient spike from a gpu
It does not
Especially considering the fact that Hynix M die is a 16Gbit IC, meaning you'll find it only in 2x16 or 2x32GB kits
im p sure it's 24Gbit IC
im p sure all of the 16Gbit ICs are a mixture of both micron and hynix
etc
im p sure most 24Gbit ICs are hynix M.
so like 24 or 48GB ram isnt a 100% of it being hynix M, but it can definitely increase your odds imo
along with looking at the timings
so i will probably just get whatever 2x48GB kit that has relatively tight timings
and then hopefully get M die, and if i dont i will just return it
You won't get an M die kit if it isn't 2x16GB or 2x32GB
so i probably wont get a specific 6000 cl30 kit, i am probably just going to get whatever kit that is as close to 7000 as possible
16Gbit M die and 16Gbit A die are the good overclockers
im pretty sure this is wrong
There may be a 24 Gbit M die but that's not the same as 16Gbit M die
16 Gbit M die is the good overclocker
Little information is out about 24Gbit ICs since they're so new
Why as close to 7000?
yeah they are new
ig it probably doesnt matter actually.
They are categorised differently
16Gbit M die is a good overclocker
24Gbit M die, no one knows about
If it even exists
Might still be A die
but im just saying the kit i get will be 6400 or 6800 etc
and then first time boot it will post anyway.
and then after that, i will tune it down to 6000
or not tune it down but when expo comes up in the bio, i will just set it to 6000.
maybe i will try seeing if i can push 6400, but tbh i doubt 6400 will even give more perf since, just cause you can post and do things at 6400, it doesnt mean it will be optimized which is probably what everyone means by stable and that ultimately effects performance to be just kind of worse than every other option.
even if 24Gbit hynix M isnt 16Gbit hynix M, it's still hynix and it will probably be M. i guess i just can't imagine hynix changing the way they name things but ig it wouldnt be the first dirty trick a manufacturer has done. but also even if its new and information isnt out yet. i have already seen some benched for 24Gbit IC rams and they seem to do well.
it makes me think, what is the point of ram benchmarks if they really only compare the base timings when they can all be tuned to something else.
That's not how that works
"m die" is just a reference to the revision
ik they are different M dies if thats what you mean, but im saying that doesnt mean it's worse.
just get a kit that does 6000 cl30-32
it can
there is different levels of binning per die
but still, just straight up get a 6000 cl30-32 kit of ram
Yes that is what I mean, and yes it could entirely be worse
i doubt it
the ram i use, uses micron rev.e dies, they OC well, but on a corsair kit using the same dies may not OC as well or be as stable
micron dies (ic's) used in a bunch of ram brands
no, crucial ballistix's
What grounds can you stand on to make this statement when you have no experience with use of these sticks?
its hynix lmao
definitely not on the ones i use
and if you're on about the A/M dies, you don't have the realworld experience to say or know which is going to be better
Just remember also
The fact that 16Gbit M die overclocks well is not because it's designed for overclocking
People bought it and tested it and found that it happened to be great for overclocking
Hynix's only goal is to make a RAM IC that can hit JEDEC timings
It is just happenstance that it's kinda good at overclocking too
How long is this thread
7531 sentences if you could read
As long as it'll be (this is their 4th thread on the subject)
isnt it it the 5th
Idk I stopped counting after 1
or did she correct it
I wish i had a pc with ddr4
What a weird wish
i still have a ddr3 pc lmao
I got pc with ddr2
nice
And some with some ram with tcl of 2.5
Nah 4th
So what’s your psu choice
4th one
dream just go with the dark power 13.
your not going to regret it, it’s literally the best choice for what you’re doing
fr
More than 1200w is useless
and you still argue shes not a troll lmao
i almost died there. she said "ik what amps are, but idk what 15 amps are"
thats like saying i know what cups are, but idk what 16 cups are🤦
mf skipped learning how to count
this is exactly why i dont take this thread seriously
its just memeing at this point
she's just trying to learn way too much
yeah its like trying to teach someone whos just got their learners permit to race in F1

more like someone who just got their permit trying to go to F1 in a month and asking for guidence

actually yeah thats a better analogy
because i dont want to explain all this useless shit to her. she's the one that wont stop asking
honestly at this point id just only tell her what she needs to know and just ignore the other stuff
the psu was honestly the worst part of this, with ram very close. I immediately found the dark power 13, which is basically the best psu for her needs. she still wanted to "consider other options"
also wanted a 2050w psu (even though it would pop most home circuits)
💀
i honestly would not be opposed to a 1600i, but thats still spending more than double the price for no reason
definitely, would 1.2kw is basically the max most american mains circuits do unless specifically wired up for a cooker or hob
part of why i prefer british mains tbh, can do 4kw on a socket
This parody song is actually called "Numbers" like Drowning Pool's "Bodies" but no one calls it that. They just call it "I can only count to four" by Psychostick. I'm sure people called Bodies "Let the bodies hit the floor" all the time. #psychostick #songparody
See Psychostick perform LIVE every Thursday at 8pm Eastern, 7pm Central.
https://ps...
yeah ill be interested to see if the standard gets updated in the future as we use more electricity
american mains could do 240v tbh but it does mean redoing the whole circuitry
instead of spliting it into 2x 120v
would probably also mean a new plug standard since people are stupid
well you got nema 15
idk what that is
but you could always copy our plugs and the safety we have on our sockets
nema 15
safety? we dont need safety
that would restrict our FREEDOMS bald eagle noise
it would prevent kids electricuting themselves when jamming knives in sockets
also, it involves the ground/earth pin being slightly longer
/s
as the earth/ground is a key into unlocking the plate that prevents the live + neutral from being exposed
im pretty sure it already is
it is but your live and neutral are instantly exposed all the time alowing for an easy short and electrical fire
thats upside down
plus most houses here have a ground fault circuit breaker
which if anything gets grounded via a short it kills the power quicker than the person realises
we have those in kitchens and bathrooms and outdoors
not all outlets have them tho
we just use 1 next to the main fuse afaik
fun fact like 80% of the outlets in my house are just straight up ungrounded
also rockin knob and tube wiring
only the new addition has modern wiring
how our sockets be wired up
pretty similar to ours
how our plugs are wired
depending on use the cable itself is rated for 5-15amp while the fuse is 1-13amp
interesting
1 single standard rather that 5+
do you have to update old wiring on old houses if there isnt a major renovation?
it's wise to do so
but if the house is around 10-20 years old, most cases afaik you can get away with just an inspection
me with a 100+ year old house with the original wiring
we dont need to update the wiring unless we open up the walls for renovations
our walls are brick so that would have issues doing that tbh
yeah, all stud walls for yours
most of ours are all brick with plaster spread over, with only a few walls being stud, unless its a major new build afaik
our old fuse boxes still in some houses that are over 40 years old
i believe we have to update our fuse boxes to be up to code tho so we dont have old ones
in modern builds and those who's had it rewired to bring it up to spec
thats way different from ours
240v system, not split into 2x 120v
the rcd's split it up into 2 circuits but it's still all 240v
in yours it's split into 2 circuits of 120v
personally i'd rather deal with 12/24v systems any day
much simpler to deal with
solar-> charger -> battery,
battery -> inverter -> fuse box -> mains circuits
i corrected it
you can put a fuse/circuit breaker inline between the battery and inverter
all i know about amps is that it's the current inside the rails or any other context.
basics of a solar setup
the pro might be a bit too pricy
i dont know what the difference between 1 amp and 15 amps are.
It’s not, this build is testament to that
15 is more than 1
ik 15 amps is a bigger number and it means more electricity maybe
It’s 15 times the current of 1 amp
but yeah i mean thats all ik
it's the difference between 120w and 1800w
are you saying that all amps have a wattage equivalent
volts X amps = watts
more amps = more watts
ik the formula is a thing
more volts = more watts
so any of them can be converted into each other?
Yes
yes and i done the quick maths based on 120v
Provided you know two of the three, you can convert between any of them
its just weird to me because of how i learned volts
psus take in 120v?
120-240 iirc
110/120v in america for mains
damn
or whatever your regions standard is
Provided you know a little bit of algebra, you can convert between power, voltage, current and resistance provided you know any two of them lol
oh wait yeah makes sense mb
ik you can solve for volts and it would be watt / amps
yeah, math
ok cool then
cool story
but like, describing everything in volts is weird
lets move on
yes, so if a 12v rail does a max of 15amps, it does 180w
also you can figure it out, unless you know at least 2 of them
and it's all labelled on the psu
have we decided on a psu
No
And we wont unless she gets answers for her questions that are currently being formulated
better chances of me winning the lottery
This is going to be slow, deal with it
no what
you've not decided on the exact psu and mobo
oh well it honestly just takes me a long time to decide and idk how to make that better tbh. maybe if it was dirt cheap or maybe if i didnt put this on a pinnacle my whole life.
The only components set in stone are the 7950X3D and RTX 4090
last i know of, been discussed not decided on fully
right now, i am identifying good quality gold psus
im already basically done with plat
but i didnt do 1200w for plat yet
all those that are tier A psu's
I believe also 96GB of vengance rgb for ram
theres no reason for you to buy gold psus with your budget
not fully
just get a plat or titanium
Do you need to identify what PSUs are good for which efficiency tier when you aren't going to consider 90% of them?
betger efficiency
it was gskill, i think i will have to go the trident neo just cause there might be a better chance of getting M die.
never buy based on efficiency tbh
But you don’t need too. The dark power 13 will be perfect for your uses. If you must, get the ax1600i
so far all of them are in consideration
but i can go in and cross off some now
you only need to decide on 1 from the tier A's
tbh, the dark power might be better to have than an ax1600i
im not saying buy the most efficient just get one thats highly rated and very efficient
considering the age of AXi's eh definitely a better choice
+native 12vhpwr!
so you would go axi
no
totally not needed, corsair's proven that
he said the opposite
oh okay
totally opposite
cause axi is so old
i mean like, theyre realistically the same, might as well not mess with adapters
dp13 = newer, AXi = 6+ years old
what does +native mean
the + means nothing
pcie 5.0/12vhpwr connector on it
i just meant you dont need an adapter
so for the psu, it's native to the design
only thing the 1600i has going for it atp is wattage
Yeah, which dream doesn’t need. But if she refuses to get the 1000w because of its wattage, that’s the other “option”
super simplified setup for van
very true
And a dedicated circuit for her gaming pc :|
i thought she said she wasnt gonna do the van thing
Told me she dropped van life again
only if it's not viable for the pc she wants
wait what
thats one of the dumbest things ive ever heard
choosing where you live based on your pc
Its basically not viable with the 4090 anyway imo
True
well i never picked it back up, but these sources are great.
so are you or aren't you doing van life
💀
it should be a tertiary thought. not a primary.
that is one of the worst decisions you have made in this "journey"
valid af
honestly
cause realistically, i wont know for sure until about a year from now
this is a tech server not a house channel
what. the. fuck.
lets just focus on the computer
if the computer is actually a thing and not an elaborate troll
which is why obviously, i said lets stop focusing on vanlife. but its good to keep in mind. for me to keep in mind. not you guys really. but yeah 240v from an inverter seems perfectly fine for me
idk how it couldnt handle 600w system
substitute the 240v as 120v instead
yeah
its not always 600w
exactly
forget the inverter its not relevant
usually less
it is if she wants a pc in a van eventually
and if you get a kW psu, it needs to be capable of like 1.1kW
but yes, lets focus on the pc
and the van isnt our problem
dream, please pick your psu
why are we saying kW. wouldnt it be easier to just say watts
preferably a 1.2kw psu max
its her problem for later
because 1000w = 1kw
life would be easier if we used log instead of lg but here we are
pretty standard
yeah but like why can the inverter only handle 1200w
saying 1000w is the same as saying a kW, just with less characters
we arent talking abt the inverter
probably because higher power ones need more power behind them and cost a lot more
because continuous/sustained load
$2k+
and that's for one with a 94-96% efficiency to it
literally forget about the van and the inverter
you also have to realise what else will be on the circuit attached to the inverter
were only talking about the psu
with more, you would begin to approach the OG budget of 20k
lock the power of the 4090 to 200w 
but yeah, pc, first
yes yes, back to the pc
and as she said, the van isnt a worry for now
i didnt even know you could do this.
moving on
he said about it way earlier
im asking why, like what is the inverter specs. are you saying 120v can only do 1200w?
the specs are whatever you want
stop talking about the inverter
they probably exist from like 12v to 500v or something
no, there are 3kw+ inverters that do 120v mains
the inverter and the van dont matter, as you said
oh so the sky is the limit then
yea
for our purposes yes
10kw is the limit for an inverter, and that's around $8k
so i just need an inverter that has more wattage than the psu?
and.....
double it
can we stop talking about inverters and the van now though
dream, please pick your psu
actually though
i was earlier tbf
yes, dream brought it back :|
linked that pic so she can understand the setup for way later as a reference
also why i said 12/24v systems are so much easier
must I say it again? dream, pick your psu please
but yeah, 1.2kw is all you'd need for psu wattage
Best Option: Be Quiet! Dark Power 13 1kW
:D
or corsair's version of that that beats it electrically even though it's 5 years old
lol
that should be it but i had it written down somewhere so let me verify
dont get me wrong: DP13 is a MONSTER of a PSU and is amazin
But overpriced
the dark power 13 also has a native 12vhpwr plug, which is a huge nice-to-have
True, but you won't see that part anyways... why bother for $200
its not even more expensive than that hx1000i, at least in the US
which is where dream is located
maybe by like $30
ive heard bad things about thermaltake
just their low end. they have A tier psus
i hear they copy another company
1000w sfx psu, for example
cant speak to that
thats okay
uhhhhh
i doubt they copy
but anyway, the dark power 13 is what you need
That is extremely old news
Like 2016-2018 era news
which company
does it even matter?
i am biased for companies and i know it
wait i thought ac was the one inside the wall outlets
….yeah?
Hehe, look at my bio
ok
the embodiment of the nerd emoji
Wdym
Oh. Yes I am a nerd
now all its missing is harry potter
isnt that more geek
oh but, a van wouldnt be ac, it would be dc first. so the inverter is need to convert the dc into ac? and then ac is needed to convert back into dc?
Yes
oh the charge controller would be very helpful. is it a large device?
and the inverter isnt even the battery
No
Yep
120-240v AC input, 3.3, 5, and 12v DC output
do i plug into the battery or the inverter
The inverter
Batteries are dc, the inverter switches dc to ac
oh i see
so its solar panels into the battery first not the inverter. the inverter makes it ready to use
and i need an inverter that can power the pc along with anything else that i want to power
@arctic lotus
thanks i didnt see this, but i do know the charger is in between the solar and battery
for regulation
here are some 4kW options
pure sinewave is the kind you want,
Is that peak or sustained
those are peak wattages
i would suggest to go with victron
pricier but more efficient a system
here are 5000w inverters
Except the one that’s not 5000w
yeah not that one
i still need to look into renogy's stuff to see what they're like
so if i bought a 5000w inverter, and the psu needed 2000w. it would use 2000w out of the 5000w leaving the inverter with only 3000w left.
The psu should only need 1000w
No because a 2000w psu is dogshit
lmao a 2000w psu still only draws what it needs
yes but that 5kw is peak, and you're not checking what it's sustained/continuous load it can handle
it wont be drawing 2kw
Doubt it
thats how psus work
you're also not checking what protections the inverter has
most psu's*
how do you check
manuals/documentation for the inverters
But anyway, just get the dark power 13
most cheap inverters are sold showing what only their peak load is, not their sustained/continuous load is
Bigger numbers babyyyy
yup
and you need to check if an inverter is a proper pure sine wave inverter
no i meant the psus
oh, reviews on the specific psu's in question
those that go in depth on the psu, including taking photos of it's insides
i doubt a psu will draw more than it needs
anyway, what is the sustained load measured in
is sustained load the same thing as "continuous output"
The same, Watts
yes, and watts
so what is the peak for
max load it can handle for a set period of time
miliseconds to seconds
how do you check how much continuous load is required of a psu
for a psu itself you can estimate it
do you have examples or can you show me how to estimate it
you take the load of the components
and do some calculations
and add 50 to 100w for worst case scenario
can you do a full example
ill just give an example of my pc
my 6700xt uses 190w
my i5 12600 like 100w max or something
everything else idk how much, lets say 50w even though that seems too much
wtf i dont have cinebench installed
pcpartpicker already gives you an estimated power usage
@topaz solstice omg i might have found the cutest case
with a bit of jankyness you can fit a 120mm aio
No, you really can't
so is 290w the continuous load required
That barely counts
wouldnt the continuous load be less
No, why would it be?
this is the estimated wattage for my system
DDR4
14W
kek
and i use a 650w psu for my system
essentially
is that peak or continuous load tho
continuous while gaming
do homes and buildings have inverters. are they hidden in the walls??
oh yeah
there are AC converters to lower the voltage from the power lines to 120/240V
so my continuous load of my cpu and gpu is 600w then
no, i dont think most gpus go up to 600w, unless you overclock the balls out of them
probably closer to 400-450
cpu+gpu
4090:
only homes that run off-grid do, otherwise no you're getting power from the mains grid
while on low load
cpu doing 37w, gpu doing 40w
though i've witnessed my cpu pulling 130w on it's own
3090 will pull 500-550w with it's transient spikes, 4090 pulls 600w with transient spikes, but if the vbios was power unlocked like you can do with intel cpu's it can pull up to 900w
it's currently the only gpu that can pull that high a wattage
spicy
yup, for a gpu it's no joke
and for all those 300W, you probably only get like 10% performance?
more like 5-10%
thats why everyone says to undervolt/lower the power of the 4090 to lower power draw which has most of the performance still available
yup, you can halve it's power and only lose like 10%
60% power for 10% less performance
And if you flash the Asus 1kW BIOS (that has no power limits) and run Furmark 2, you can actually get it to draw 1.5kW
which translates into, "how to kill the average americans home electrics"
unplug stove
makes non-standard 240v pc power cord fire hazard
No, manufacturers list average power draw ish
Then again, there's no standardised testing procedure for it
average draw, and pcpp will only give you an estimated power draw
and yet it doesn't tell you what it's like for transient spikes
thats only gaming btw