#peripherals
1 messages · Page 52 of 1
ty. and I will. lemme add you so I can remember
eh
never liked supporting gloros in the first part, only praise I give them is they shook up the budget 75% a bit
My keyboard is supposed to ship in March, looking forward to building it, but I also do not want to lube and I do not really have any of the equipment for it
only thing you really have to lube are stabilizers
which takes like 10m for a first timer
Can the https://www.amazon.com/Snpurdiri-Keyboard-Ultra-Compact-Waterproof-Black-White/dp/B097T276QL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3? Hold me off till the zoom 75?
I know u,I’m just wondering from where
ts
hey whats a good 75% kb?
Budget?
I mean, it’s mechanical
$100 usd
it’s kind of shitty but whether it’ll hold you off or not is up to you
Keychron v1
anyother ones
none worth mentioning
ok if i bump to 150 can i get one with rgb
cause i got cotton candy switches and need a kb
membrane rubber dome
yeah i have alpaca linears, is it worth living them, i already have the kryotox
if you’d like, I think they’re useable stock
only issue is that jwk leafs have ping which is the only reason I’d lube them
yeah, I 3D printed a switch opener so i’m gonna try and use that
my board is coming with an alu plate so i think lubing might be the move
i forgor i bought a half plate ....
get the other half!!
Idk where to ask so I'll ask here.
Is gulikit king pro 2 still worth buying like Linus was amazed on shortcircuit video? Cuz I see many mixed opinions about it
its meant to be just half!!!! its so the alphas stay #flexy !!
I've been thinking of buying one myself
what kind of criticisms do you hear about it? It seems like a pretty good product all in all
wtf..
how much is it ??¿ 😛
same as a regular plate ://///
it was a POM half plate........ ...
yeah what’d you need
we matching on the real 🫶
looks like low profile caps
a uh
nothing really good at 75$ hm…
take a look at keychron v series
used gaming boards don’t sell for very much btw
It’s preference really
if you already have browns and like them
keep buying browns

what don’t you like about them?
does anyone know how I can get that springy sound out of the ESC key? I just lubed it
is it just that I put more lube onto the spring
Wdym
It’s cheaply built and poor quality
gas
no
whats the song that goes
these are not edibles these are chocolate chip cookies
Slump AK - Syrup 2
thank you
fucking heat
it’s the worst song I’ve heard today
also it wasnt that one
it was tiktokers
drowning out my thoughts in loud music rn
this is ltt server btw
Hey I need help you some keyboard enthusiast
I was thinking of getting the epomaker 84, or the keychron k2
which one do you think is better
bold choices 😜
Hello everyone, Im new here in the LTT discord channel and I thought of starting a conversation about keyboards, which do you think is better? Logitech g915 TKL or Logitech g715 Wireless?
Personally at first I was thinking of getting the g915 but recently found out the g715 which is the newer model is actually cheaper on best buy soooo now I switched my choice to the g715 and honestly its for the sole reason of it having a type c charging port rather than the really old micro b port on the g915 lol
Both of them look like a waste of money
How much are you looking to spend and is wireless a must
@ripe marlin
Wireless is a must and also the low-latency dongle + bluetooth dual connectivity is a must
thought these were my best options to be honest based on my needs no other brands do it like this
also I prefer it to be TKL
I would spend at most 200$usd
I’ll look into what I can find on the dongle end
With $200 you can make some great things but wireless holds you back a bit
Dongle even more so
the thing is is want a clean setup so no cables (I know you can get fancy coiled cables but meh) moreover the dual connectivity is for using it for both work and gaming, gaming for PC using the low latency dongle and bluetooth for work with an easy button to switch between them
already have kailh not gateron
I’ll try and see what I can do, if you were fine with a 75, normal bt 5.1, and waiting a bit this is a great option
Keychron Q1 Pro is a full metal QMK/VIA wireless mechanical keyboard. Customize any key or create macro commands through VIA software as usual, and connects the Q1 Pro with up to 3 devices through Bluetooth for seamless multitasking across both Mac, Windows, and Linux.
My reply feature is bugging for some reason
Even this would be a better buy than the Logitech ones but no dongle
keychron k8 pro
the small right shift is a deal breaker for me I use it very often and I need it to be fullsize
Rk K87
i just finished building my gmmk1, full size. and after sometime when i press a switch every switch does not work, and some presses are delayed, some just repeat. idk what to do.
any fixes?
when im talking about that it repeats it just holds whenever i press it
when i release it
some presses are even delayed
idk if this will fix it but try opening the glorious software and going into task manager and ending the task, then unplug the keyboard and plug it back in
the keyboard only works when its not plugged in?
so like after a certain number of keypresses the board just shits itself?
idk i wish i had some knowledge to help but it seems like its above my level of experience, maybe try some forums or #1027757333117415424
dead switch fixed
Why do you need software in the first place ...
someone local designed a stacked acrylic case for the ortho 100
just need to save up for supplies for that now
i feel like this is the shorter travel distance talking, but these choc browns feel
underwhelming?
maybe its also the way im feeling them oujt
oki doki
just looking for screw ins, i know clip ins are okay, just wanna do something different than i already have
ive read that staebies are some of the best screw ins
staebies are good
clip ins are great tho
rn i would say out of top 3 picks for stabs 2 of them are clip ins
it would be odd to deprive yourself of them just to try screw-ins
i have two boards with them already, i havent done screw ins
i just ordered a tofu65 to start building
not even sure what switches or caps im gonna put on the thing yet lol
all i know is i did the carbon fiber plate
the v2 tofus are nice
i did the black chassis and CF plate, thinking maybe TTC hearts or banana splits, not sure yet
owlstabs are also solid screwins but if the wire is fucked then you are fucked
qmx stabs seem promising
trying to stick with a dark and earthy theme since my pc is gonna be in the fractal north once i can actually get one
from what ive heard banana splits sound fantastic
banana splits lowk overhyped
i would just get one of hte many other cheaper jwk recolors
TTC is what im using now, got these after my pok3r with mx blacks died on me
not sure how i feel about them
i had a lot of help with my first build, so this next one is my first real build solo
Anyone know if there's something like the claymore 2 with browns available?
the ROG with opticals?
A lot of them have opticals, but yes. I'm more looking for one that has a detachable 10 key and volume knob
does it have to be attachable, because you could always go the route of a TKL and a separate numpad, would offer you more flexability and customization
I mean no but I'd at least need a matching numpad and the main board would have to have hub functionality
hmmm maybe somebody else knows, i really only mess with 60 and 65% boards, since i just do art so i have no real need for a numpad
https://www.theverge.com/22958439/trackball-diy-building-ploopy
oh no, plouffe will soon have a new thing to geek about 🙂
You can build a trackball called Ploopy.
ploopy
keychron q3 + q0?
only i do not like about q so i got v is that they sort of push down
when you press hard on them
maybe not sure how it is called
it sort of feels inconsistent but i hear people like it because of feel i feel like i am on a ship which is on choppy waters
im too tired to go through flex v bouce rn but escentially its when you push down and it is not as stiff
you get a soft experience where it bows in
yes it is not so stiff like a brick but it is more consistent right
q is more consistent
you might percieve v to be more consistent if you equate the solid feeling to consistancy
yes i meant it is more solid and stable
because it does not bend
maybe i would ahve to get used to it
to each there own
lots of people in this hobby prefer the more solid stiffer typing experiences
i am trying to get used to milky yellow now
in the end it is all about getting a board that matches your preferences
do you know why so many people prefer them i see them ranked in s tiers
i would not really go by teir lists
i got milky yellow instead of red
only diff is spring weight and stem color
they are the same other than that
they are a very very solid pick exp for the price
the sound is nice and full, nice and smooth when lubed
i like them but they feel a little sticks like honey you know they are not as soft as red
also they feel heavier than black
they might be slightly heavier
i was told they are between red and black
its 2am for me so the exact weights are slipping my mind
they shud be lighter than blacks when yea
still in the game of switches most of it is down to preference
lubed yellow feel heavier than unlubed black
with more money you get more options
well they sound far better than red
but red feel much better for extremely fast typing
if you went a bit heavier on the lube it might have caused it to get a bit more sluggish
i have bought a pro version
is the red you are comparing it to also lubed?
so they already came lubed
icic
i have kailh box red and kailh box black on switch tester
and i have milky yellow pro in my keyboard
and milky yellow pro sort of feel like honey compared to black and red a little more sticky and buttery
no red is not lubed
red and black are not
only yellow is
red and black are like more responsive
i would try lubing a red and black and comparing
i have never lubed switches
you prefer the yellow rn right
scared of too much lube
based on sound and feel yellow are far smoother and deeper
but they are a little sticky or heavy for fast typing
its actually pretty hard to overlube as long as youre not spreading butter
they feel a little heavier than black ones
you just need a good thin coat
i break clips while removing switches so idk how bad i will mess up with lubing
so i thought i would rather buy lubed ones rather than ruin them by lubing too much
and maybe later decide to lube them myself
generally lubed ones from pro lubing services are more evenly coated
also they are sticky on the top
like a little blockage on the very top
idk if this is lube or keycaps
because yellow ones in keyboard do that but kailh ones in switch tester do not
does milky version change anything other than sound
or does milky version also change resistance
That’s called binding
its binding
its the switch regardless of lube or caps
it does it for some switches due to housing tolerances
so it is because of an angle or
yes
yes all my keycaps are a little angled on these switches
and everyone called me stupid
they said it is impossible
it is quite hard playing games on them
Have you maybe tried contacting Keychron for an rma
Instead of complaining about it here
he just said it is not keychron
yes they said they will not do anything other than give me discount for new switches
I’m talking about your switches not being fitted properly
but they are fit properly
Didn’t you say they’re at an angle?
stems on them are angled
So they aren’t fitted properly
they are like that on all keyboards
see they fit in fine
housing sits well on the plate
but keycaps still stand out
can you take a picture of the side profile of the board
i have taken both plates off and they are straight after putting them on but keycaps are still like that
also idk why keys have blockage on the very top but then they are smooth
it just feels like a really bad angle
if i put old switches back on they are straight
people are telling me i messed up something
it is not a lot but it is more angled on yellow than lavender
on lavender angler was 1mm but on yellow angle is 2mm
but why are they so hard to press on top part but not on low part
i would understand the angle but it is a really annoying feature
especially when i use claw grip playing games
idk if this is the angle because some were better than others or just poorly lubed or bad keycaps
but thing is it does not happen on red or black
goofy aw keycaps
My keyboard supports QMK and VIA, how can I change the RGB on each key?
Via has some presets but i just want to set certain keys to solid colours
what is wrong with keycaps
i use via and it works fine to set a solid color out of rgb
They look crooked idk
it is because they do not fit those switches well
they sit perfectly on other switches
Rip
i do not really care that much they were just 40eur
That's a lot
just ordered new double ones for 20eur
most i see are either 30eur or 90eur
stock keychron ones broke for me
what do you mean they look crooked
they are just angled a little because of stems on those switches
yeah but i dont want that, i want to have my aplpha keys green and my other keys purple
idk if that is a feature but you can program it yourself
i usually put it all to pastel blue
how do i do that? im very new to via and qmk and just mechanical keyboards in general
sorry i have never tried it but in the app you have a window where you can write your own code try checking git maybe someone already wrote a program
if i understand correctly you want to separately choose colors for keys right
yes
kinda like razer chroma
If it's a custom usually with rgb it's not fully per key, but allows you to use the per key effects
nice!!!
My beautiful 90s PS/2 ergo keyboard
wtf is that
It is a 90s PS/2 ergonomic keyboard
w rizsz
i prefer a more modern 10kls keeb
tkls?
what ?
never seen someone type it as 10kl
lol
i think there's a raid <@&750150305383186585>
raid
not the mod ping
fr 💀
@tight charm or any mod, could we remove the literal racist remarks please
leave anthony young alone

thank you mods
i would've appreciated not having to see naked men for the 10th time on this server, but thanks ig
10th?!?!
measuring the nanoseconds between click down and click up. 👀
Any tactile pre lubed switches recommendations?
I like my gateron brown but im too lazy too lube them
Also its gonna be too awkward for me to try to buy lube in any store
Haha, ironically I just walked in because I wanted a lube recommendation for my gateron lp browns
Does the brand make any difference or should I just go with the cheapest?
I really like my „Keychron Gateron G Pro 2.0“, if you are a Gateron user, this may be an Option. The Pro 2.0 are prelubed
lol i also have keychron board
but k2 one
okay ill probably get myself akko cream yellow v3
though they are linear i like them better than tactile blue ones
The Keychron Gateron G Pro 2.0 are available as Blue, Red and Brown.
I have a problem with my Logitech Bluetooth keyboard
Keychron any good? I have a Newmen GM610, and I’m not really pleased with the quality
yes they are
I would also consider a 65, or a 75%
budget?
I don’t really have one, it’s theoretical at this point
I just want a quality keyboard at a reasonable price
then id say v1/v2
But which one? F1-F12 might be nice to have again
if you want f1-f12 then get the v1
Ok, is that a 75%?
yes
youre welcome
lux so helpful 
😎
does anyone know how to fix stabilizer noise squealing/squeaking on spacebar i dont think lubing would entirely take care of it
wire balance and lube
Those are Cherry profile keycaps.
bro
what
just ordered yellow ks-3s and some lube n shi to hopefully get rid of some of the spring ping in my board
enjoy
this is a keyboard chat
i'm actually thinking about doing my first custom build and wanted to go with a dvorak layout. its slightly custom because of the keyboard layout, but mostly everything is where it should be. thoughts on the layout?
The space tho
yea everything is 1u. never done an ortho or split keyboard so really going out of my comfort zone on this one
I really wanted to make a comment on the question but tbh, this one says it all
Though I guess I would add that as a 'first custom' build, I would not recommend either
Why is that? I want to make a keyboard but still learning what’s what
Because building out a board is tedious and tricky for a first timer, DVORAK is an incredibly frustrating layout for anyone to learn, and a 40 style 60 key board is not only nonstandard which requires ortho only caps, it's also just gonna be... annoying to learn. If you haven't built a board before, that's a whole lot of work to go through to end up with a product that nobody else will want that you might not like
Unless you already have lubed switches, ortho caps, and a hotswap PCB and case ready to go, I just wouldn't say it's a great way to introduce yourself to something.
Learning Dvorak isn’t the hard part I’m doing that on my own by switching my layout in windows.
But this would definitely be a big task. I’ve soldered small stuff to fix it, but not something this size. Definitely would not be the easiest or fastest thing for me to do
I really do want to try out an ortho keyboard. I’ve seen the pre built iris on keebio maybe I could try that one?
The Iris is super nice I've gotta say.
That said, I would tend towards suggesting that you find what you like in terms of feel and sound profile before trying to just build yourself your ideal board. It's really easy to fall into the trap of thinking that you made the one board the way you thought you wanted it, then it turns out you actually hate thock
Ask me how I know this
I'm good thanks
Ok?
Yea good point. Never tried ortho so I could just end up hating it lol. I think that’s really the only thing i don’t know. I know most else what I like with caps, switches, tenting, etc.
Oh and I totally misrembered, it’s the nyquist not the iris I was looking at
Everyone wants to be a smartass today. That’s what you get for buying cherry profile keycaps from anyone other than GMK, ofc.
doesnt gmk also sometimes have defective keycaps with warp in them
or interference with switches facing the wrong way
Occasionally, and if it does you have them replace it.
thats more because of the switch and not because of gmk tho
Yeah, most modern switches have accounted for the people who do want to use cherry profile on north led boards.
My guess though is that someone buying a $20 set of caps on Amazon is probably not too concerned with R2 interference.
LOL
gmk shills really be like
No way gmk makes mistakes too?
I recently switched my red switches with browns
i would agree that amazons quality is sometimes questionable but gmk is also no way an example
What container or bag should I use to put my switches safely
plastic bag from walmart
just buy a 30 dollar set of pbt keycaps on amazon and return them if they are warped
So I don't have any broken pins
💀
real example would be cherry dyesub, leopold pbt or taihao FAME
also the benefit of amazon is that they have a way faster fulfilment
average keyboard enthusiasts 💀
wait 2 years for your gmk keycaps just to get a warped spacebar
plastic bag??? hell no, i don't even have a Walmart in my country
too many caps lmao
any specific container
LTT bot flags the weirdest things
no
put them in a jar if your want them to look cool on a shelf
which i did
no broken pins?
imagine abs keycaps being hundreds of dollars
but we still have sprue marks on $100+ keycaps
The switches i removed has very thin pins
but but its small volume and they need the money?!
certainly not a case of GMK being incompetent/lazy and refusing to design new molds
i can see aluminium cnc keycaps costing hundreds or something handmade but not huge orders that have years of waitng
there are 25-30 dollar dyesub and double shot PBT keycaps on amazon/walmart/aliexpress/ebay that have no major issues
main complaint i saw with one set is just that the "rgb color is distorted" or something with shinethrough lettering
and thats for a full 100% set with a ton of extra media keys
looking for a keeb for 50-70
k
take a look at keychron v-series
Do ortho keyboards need special keycaps since the keyboard is a different layout or do any keycaps work?
Anyone recommend a good budget 60% keyboard?
Keychron v4
Not that this is relevant but I don't buy or use GMK. That said, you cheaped out and your caps look like shit. Please continue posting pictures and comments showing exactly that then getting butthurt when someone points out the obvious.
You got the wrong guy dude 😂
Hello
I wanna ask whats a good wireless keyboard? I was looking at nuphy air
And any suggestions for a mouse to?
nuphy makes some good stuff for wireless
there is also the kpro stuff
and q pro if you can stretch it
looking for advice. i hear this is the place to ask about keyboards...
So i have had 2 mechs, a WASD linear keyboard that no longer works, and this current Logitech g915-TKL, which i love. A few points of what I am looking for
Budget: Prefer under 200 but willing to spend a little more for the right thing but needs to be special
Switches: I prefer clicky, but the wife cant stand them. I think what I need is a linear, which what my last boards were and really liked them. to me, the linear switches on the G915 are nice, but are a little mushy? maybe muddy? I would love a nice tactile feedback but that gets to my next point:
Sound: They board needs to be quiet. which is why I am open to different switch types. which I think linear seems to be the best for? If I could get a good tactile switch that is nice and quiet, i might love that.
Modular/Programmable: I would really like to explore programmable/modular/macro boards with multiple levels. But I am new to that. I also use touch portal so maybe I would be fine without it.
Size: I like the tenkeyless size the most. would be cool with one more compact as well. i just never use the number pad much.
height: i Love low profile boards the most I think. I don't want a keyboard that is super tall. ive had muscle tightness issues with those on the back of my hands before because of that. I don't mind a little height, but things like the new Corsair air low profile keyboard is super sexy to me lol.
Assembly: I am all for kits I can customize to put together, or even a pre-built that is customizable. I love to tinker. But one thing I don't want, is to soldier anything to get it assembled
Form factor: One of my favorite boards was the typematrix 2030 with linear/orthogonal keys. I don't see that much but sometimes do in split boards. which I like the idea of. either with two separate keyboard halves or one board with just split keys.
Usage: I am a software dev so I use it much more for typing than gaming.
I think thats it. Any recommendations?
Which would u recommend?
And btw i want em to be silent i dont like clicky ones
bro went with the i want clickies, will settle for linears, but want a tactile feedback
unfortunally i had multiple recs line until the low profile request
there isn't much really good low profile stuff you don't solder for
if you are will to compromise on the low profile aspect, tiger lite, t1s, nad shenpo would be nice
q pro would be best but its more expensive than the other two
lol i know. i just like the sound of clicky . but for feel, I am just used to linear but am open to try tactile. honestly, which ever is quieter, for wife approval factor. I was just looking at the keychron k3 pro 75% that someone at work said was pretty decent. and they do look nice. and can be hot swappable for a decent price.
the plain k series is p outdated
are you willing to compromise on the low profile bit
a little. i just have tried the taller ones and really don't like them
just avoid cherry mx browns or brown clones if you want to try tactile and you liked how clicky switches feel but cannot have the noise
i had atleast 3 different keyboards that had mx brown style tactile switches and they did not have as much tactile feedback as any clicky switch i used
just felt like a linear that had gunk in them
and most of the tallness feel probably isnt the switch but maybe the keycaps used
yea. my first mechanical board i really liked but it was taller and made the muscles on the back of my hand sore after a short time typing.
yea being new to this, im not really tied to any one brand. I know cherry mx has the long term name recognition. but i also know theres other great options.
i like kailh box switches
out of 3 keyboards ive put them on
not that expensive and should have less stem wobble/be smoother
silenced realforce r1 55g tkl
I have a question about RGB in terms of switching housing. Does the bottom housing transparency or lack there of affect the RGB? Most Navy switches on amazon (and generally) have a non transparent bottom housing, but the top is transparent.
But i've also found fully transparent navy switches ('cystal navy switches') (https://www.thockking.com/products/kailh-box-jade-crystal-clicky-switches) which has a completely transparent housing. In terms of north facing RGB, does it make a different or any difference at all?
[Box Navy] Operating force: 60 gf (+/-10 gf) Tactile force: 65 gf (+/-10 gf) Pretravel: 1.8 mm (+/- 0.3 mm) Pressure point: 1.7 mm Total travel: 3.6 mm (+/- 0.3 mm) Reset point: 1.8 mm
Not usually, and not in the case of Box Jades.
Second build. Managed to take video before I put keycaps on this time.
I don't know how you can tell if these bottom housing are transparent or opaque version lol
That is so pretty though!
Opaque bottom housings typically don't affect RGB in modern switches. There are some oddball exceptions with some switches that have inserts where the RGB would shine through, but those are so uncommon that it's barely worth considering.
Yeah, I heard about something like that in a video before I watched a long time ago but I couldn't figure out how you could tell by looking at them
Light shines through here.
ohhh. hmmm
hopefully it won't end up an issue. I'm debating buy amazon switches or going to some site like 'thockking' or something
This is my new secondary keyboard 
I don't want to use it until I get new switches and put on my gradient keycaps
Cherry MX style switches are designed to have the empty slot in them regardless of what brand or material they are. The empty slot is to accommodate an LED diode that has pins through through it on boards that don't have RGB built in, so unless they're a very very very unusual switch that comes with some extra component like the Akko Demon (which even then supports LED, it's just weird), every switch supports RGB because that's what all the molds are shaped for.
Thockking is fine. Amazon is fine if you're buying legit switches, which these days is kinda hard to miss. It's a good looking board and I hope you enjoy it.
Thank you so much for the information. I tried to google it more specifically, but couldn't find an answer. i just heard over the years in watching keyboard videos that it can be an issue
Certain switches can have odd problems with Cherry profile caps on north-facing LED boards, plus you'll hear plenty of people complain about north-facing LEDs overall because the RGB isn't as prominent... the mechanical keyboard world is full of quirks and if you want something that's 'just right' for you you'll probably end up experimenting a bit with caps/switches etc.
Happy to help, and I hope it all goes well for you.
I finally have a hotswappable board so I get to experiment more! I still want to add mil max sockets into my g915, but you know, it's a bit risky and overall tedious
^_^ it will because I always do the research ahead of time the best I can! I hate returning things
I haven't dared to play around with adding mill/max sockets but I really haven't had any reason to. Desoldering and soldering is fun too if you like hunching over a PCB for hours. Playing around with new feelings, sounds, and looks is one of the best parts of custom keyboards so even if your preference ends up being different, it's an experience to go through. Enjoy!
It is fun! I started desoldering switches from first mechanical keyboard (corsair k70 rapidfire with only red rgb) in order to practice mil max sockets
I hate that I can't use cute keycaps due to logitech making modification on the choc stems (logitech 'GL' switches) compared to OEM choc stem. Cute being at a minimuim double shot pbt with translucent edges
I bought a pump and I ended up chipping a nail on it. I only teared for a few minutes 🥹
I will take your solution gladly and try that out
I actually haven't touched the dono board since then because of how upset I was LOL
yeah you need a good pump to get barely satisfactory results
i use an engineer pump and still it doesn't always come out clean
i used milky ones
and i use rgb
i used on both
but when i use i have to adapt solid color
I bought them from a place called 'harbor freight'. They're apparently a meme on how cheap the tools are but was the only place local lol
It worked about as good as what you probably expect .... not good at all
which is better
for start tho
like lubing kit and lubes 105 205
for milky yellows
I ended up tearing my pumps apart and lubricating to tweak a bit, but yeah, pumps are pretty bad because you've really got to race to suck out any solder while it's still liquid after you take the heat off. Wick is easier to work with but a bit messier.
Of course the answer is to buy a desoldering gun but the only ones that make that much difference are like $300 and I'd rather buy another keyboard for that.
I have my trusty 40$ soldering station I bought that is ten years old now
It's terrible, but it works for the randoms times I find uses for it
Basically any soldering station that lets you modulate temperature/wattage is enough to work with keebs. I more meant the dedicated desoldering guns by makers like Hakko which are awesome but way too expensive for people who do a bit of soldering now and then.
replace it with a pinecil
great hobby soldering iron and only 25 dollars
That was actually my first one. Bought it at some home depot or something. I burned my hand with it because it didn't have an off on switch and my dumbass touched it :')
Ohhhh pinecil is actually a specific brand.
well, a specific model
This look way nicer than my little plastic box that I can't stand half the time lol
no doubt
anyone try out the moondrop keyboard?
I haven't, but I like my moondrop IEMs so I might at some point
I came here to inquire about Bluetooth keyboards. My RK61 has really bad connectivity issues and I'm looking for something to potentially replace it. I like my Logitech K380 but would like something with a rechargeable battery so I don't have to worry about carrying around AAA batteries. I was looking at the Logitech MX Keys Mini or MX Mechanical, but am open to other suggestions. I know a lot of people like the Pop Keys but it seems a little, erm, eccentric for my tastes.
Thanks, these are more in line with my preferences
K pro series doesn’t use dongles btw
just Bluetooth
alright im actually looking for something primarily for phone/tablet use and occasionally on a laptop so that's perfect
kk
thanks
is there any way to deal with kailh style sockets completely detatching from hotswap boards besides potting them in epoxy/supergluing them down in place on hotswap boards
if a switch is inserted even slightly at an angle or with a leg that is not 100% straight they have a tendency of just ripping off the pcb
and taking the copper pad and trace with them
they also seem very heat and glue sensitive with the plastic kind of getting melty when soldering near them or using original brand superglue
which is how i fixed it when the first socket failed
but that one completely just came off
i mean its like a worse design than cheap hotswaps where its a through hole rivet that gets soldered into the hole for the switch legs
the only thing anchoring them to the pcb is the solder and the two pads
and all the force pushes the pads off if a switch is inserted even slightly wrong
its not a lot.
Man it’s quite clear that when you go back to Cherry MX when you haven’t need to bear the spring Ping for so long…. It becomes all you hear and it’s so loud
and so it begins
Just short the switch pins directly to the trace
the entire pads next to the switches ripped off with the socket so i would have to scrape back the trace and solder to the hair thin copper
probably doing something like this
but it ripped off on the diode side too
and thats a really tiny smd diode
idk how they managed to make the kailh socket design so fragile
i think mill max might be better for hotswap but if its this much of a problem i would rather desolder over this every time i swap switches
desoldering is less painful than having the lottery of one socket blowing out when it feels like it because a switch leg was 2 degrees off center
unless the switch plate is super loose and requires no real pressure to push it in
That’s what I said
I remember taking the time to lube switches that carefully. Fond memories
fond?!?!?!
Well, fond as in the hobby and process being new enough to me
shii took me hoursss
Oh for sure, took me for fucking ever to do my first few sets of switches
ig you might look back on it fondly if you are fast or found it relaxing
i did get through some nice ahh albums in that time tho
Now I rip switches apart in bulk, toss the springs in a bag, toss the stems in another bag, bases on my build platform that I cut down to just hold those, lube the rails and posts, few drops of thin lube on the springs, a few dabs of 205g0 or whatever other lube I'm using in the stem bag, shake the shit out of it all and roll it around, then throw it all together doing only the top housings individually, and still fast and sloppy
That's if I'm using stock springs to begin with. +-7g springs are bad on their own. +-15g springs will make any set feel like cheap garbage.
new vs old, new is lubed gateron ks-3 milky yellows, old is unlubed gateron browns
I don't even need to open that sound test to know that you'll be in heaven with your new switches compared to your old ones
its so much better lol
I haven't tried Milky Yellows yet. are they better with film or are they ones that don't even really fit it?
idk i havent tried films
they dont change much since the hosuing of the ks3 is quite fit
update: bottom 3 rows of keys are done, top 3 rows after i sleep
not anymore but go on
extras are instock
@ typeplus
oops
cool beans
trust me if you really need that 8ms you just have a skill issue
how do you fully remove spacebar rattling? I've lubed both the housing and the wire itself but theres still rattle
how do I do that
so you haven’t
i'm still very new to this hobby
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
if your wire isn’t straight it’ll rattle whatever you do to it
says on keychron’s website it’s 1ms
north facing leds might be interfering maybe?
But it also could just be a lack of lube
oh wait he put alot of lube 💀
ok cool
on the wire
it’s 1ms
1000hz polling rate
anything over is overkill and milliseconds in difference
all the q series boards have 1ms response times
yeah using a bit more is always better than less for stabs
polling rate does not equal absolute latency
also balance because that can be an issue that results in leftover rattle
a keyboard can be 1000hz and still have shit latency
if it has a really bad scan rate or debounce algorithm
q series still all have 1ms latency
welp im gonna have to take everything out again
and have fine debounce algorithms
if it affects your gaming for better or worse it’s probably just placebo
ok
No, the reason why people buy Keychron is that they dunked hard on an overbloated market full of subpar 65%-75% custom boards in 2021 and 2022 with products that were 'fine' without modding at all, and were under $200 when $500 75% boards were normal and worse
Oh plus they make other shit to sell on Amazon
good prebuilts have always existed
not arguing about the quality of the overall keyboard just saying dont spread misinformation about latency
keychron just set the scene for one of every size and configuration you could want
It may all be pretty meh but it's the good side of meh
it’s not really noticeable but yeah the advertised 1ms won’t really ever happen
Not that it ever needs to happen
it doesn’t
theres no excuse to have high latency on a wired keyboard
it’s unnecessary
when there are 40-50 dollar boards with ~1ms
even if its "placebo" or "overkill"
not really any disadvantage to it
High latency, sure. But I guarantee that your fingers can't move the difference between 5ms and 1ms
the entire point is reducing the overall input lag for something like an fps game if you are corner peaking or strafing
any amount taken off reaction time is worth it
i can agree that above 1000hz is overkill since there are 1000hz keyboards with 1ms input lag but 10-15ms vs 1ms is a much larger difference
Okay, but uh
How many ms do you think it takes to switch between actuation and off with a movement of the finger
And that's very variable by the finger moving at the instant in time
I think that’s all swell but that’s really not everyone’s use case
and if it were then everyone would be buying the lowest latency
which most likely wouldn’t be mechanical
for typing you do not notice bad latency unless its a 125hz with one key sent per polling interval aka chord splitting
then if you type really fast you can see letters get delayed
but thats not an issue on 99% of keyboards
isn’t that nkro
no
and not polling rate
if you press multiple keys at the same time sometimes they are sent across multiple polling cycles instead of all at once
I'm not arguing that a 50ms board would be acceptable, I'm arguing that the difference between 5ms and 1ms is negligible and would just as easily be chalked up to minute differences in instantaneous finger position
anyways take that with a grain of salt
because of debounce algorithms it’s advertised but it’s a couple ms off
you won’t notice it anyway
Whats a good budget 65% keyboard
u can get smth from keychron, if you are a cheap ass like me that dont minds shipping times, you can buy their keyboards from aliexpress for way cheaper
i got my k2 for like less than 100 bucks
maybe 80
and its really good
depends on the budget tho
there is some stuff from reddragon that is really cheap
Don't buy anything from Aliexpress if you care if it arrives or not.
i bought a ton of things from aliexpress and always received stuff
all coiled cables and keycaps came from aliexpress but amazon sent damaged items multiple times
Is there really any value in having springs that have a super heavy bottom out?
BOX Crystal Navy – Clicky | 3.6mm Travel | 60g Actuation | 90g Bottom Out
BOX Crystal Pink – Clicky | 3.6mm Travel | 65g Actuation | 55g Bottom Out
Debating between these two switches atm
yeah but the double and thicker click bar in the navy switches are like 
then spring swap
90g bottom out springs are fine if you like them, but box style springs tend to measure their actuation force differently then cherry style springs and may be significantly firmer than the latter.
But yes… on average, any given keyboard user is not gonna like the feel of 90g springs
I have a question, I'm new to keyboards. what's the best/nicest keyboard I can get, mechanical or membrane for under £50.
that’s a pretty tight budget
its all ive got left from my entire setup budget. i had to cheap out on the monitor to even have this much left
That depends, do you wanna build it yourself or get a prebuilt?
Navy has a thicker clickbar for greater tactility, the downside to this is you require a heavy spring to reliably clear the clickbar on the upstroke
Jade has the same clickbar but attempts to use a lighter spring which results in a slower upstroke
I do not recommend spring swapping navies or jades at all, though they don’t really feel that heavy due to how the clickbar works anyway
imagine trashing on keychron then buying the most overhyped keyboard out rn LOL
Imagine buying in stock boards at all.
I'm joking by the way. Keeb world is all about preference.
Reds are not great switches in any capacity, they're just the default linear
Most of their customers would beg for the opposite tbh
Depends on what blacks we're talking about.
Unlikely that they'd really be too heavy for anyone to use comfortably but it'd come down to preference
Keychron ships with gaterons normally, which are reasonably light. Do you feel like those are too easy to depress?
keychronically online
hurr overhyped
i need something with NO chatter
every keyboard ive had has had chattering
any keyboard using mechanical conventional switches with a metal contact in them has the shitty chattering issue and requires the long debounce algorithms
at best they can remove the initial press delay with an eager algorithm so they have an absolute input latency of around ~1ms
but they have a minimum keypress time that it checks for switch chatter of about 5-10-15ms or more
before allowing you to let up on a keystroke
kind of stupid that only a few companies are going with hall effect or optical
objectively better switch technology
ive wasted so much time and money on shit keyboards that chatter
or have bad input latency
"overhyped" when its objectively better and new technology with NO chance of chattering and debounce nonsense
the only thing overhyped is the keychron children flockign to the newest plastic keyboard with 15 ms latency
because they can make it thOCCK thOCc ThoCC
pay a premium price for something that comes stock in any 30 dollar budget keyboard
"custom keyboard" effect
its because all customs and the custom market they only care about typing/sound and any feature that aligns with "gaming mARketing HYPE" is automatically discarded
technical specifications is secondary or last on the list of priority
Lol.
people would rather spend 200 on gmk keycaps over spending 200 on a better MCU/polling rate/switch technology
would rather pay a premium price for top of the line innovative technology instead of "custom keyboard"
pay 40% more for "lubed" placebo soound
stuttering SHIT
I agree, people shouldn't spend money on things they like when they could spend money on faster response times despite being scrub non-gamers
its why the market is flooded with keycaps and 40-65% layouts
and barely any TKL or 100% layouts
and wireless garbage
the issue is people recommending keyboards ONLY because of aesthetics or some other bullshit
and chalking up specs to "placebo"
dont worry about it
dont worry about it when your keyboard suddenly develops switch chattering and you dont have the tools to repair it
or it breaks in the process of having to repeatedly swap out switches to fix the issue
and then have a wall of replies of "keyboard must be dirty" or some other bullshit when its the switch and firmware being inherently faulty that its even a problem
when there are vintage keyboards that do not even have the issue
like IBM model F
poorly designed modern switches and firmware
at least it "thoCcs"
now pay 200$ for pre lubed placebo sound
with the bottom of the barrel PCB they could find
i mean ive had more mechanical keyboards chatter than membrane trash that i got at a garage sale even
EVERY clicky switch ive ever had has developed chattering
not sure how its a "rare" issue and how switches are rated for "50 million keystrokes" and other realistic claims
having switch chattering at all slows down my typing speed severely if i have to go back and correct every single double or triple letter occurrence in anything i type
or screws me over if its a game that has keys which can be double tapped for different behavior
The two of you must be the unluckiest people on the planet
i have had atleast 3 keyboards that chatter
one or two keys develop it
usually the most used keys
like d/e/w
My point exactly
ive had 4 corsairs that chattered and 2 hyperx ones
last hyperx one i used was fully unusable
chattered on every other keystroke
CONSISTENTLY on the same switch too
Um
Why did you buy the 4th Corsair if the first three did it?
Corsair makes ass keyboards. So does HyperX.
my own fault for thinking corsair could make a good product
giving them the benefit of the doubt
Fair enough I suppose
my ducky with blues did too
getting fed up with clicky switches
would rather use linear at this point even if it does feel less satisfying to type on
It sounds like you just have an issue with cherry mx
ive used 3 different kailh box switch sets
all of which chattered
had 2 keyboards with box whites that both chattered
and my kailh box pink which im using now
hotswapped
I don't suppose these have all been on the same USB Bus or machine
its not luck, switches inherently have chatter
its how good the firmware handles debounce and all that
i had the issue with box whites on a hotswap using kailh sockets
replaced the switch with another from the numpad which is used less often
instantly vanished
or if i repeatedly hit a chattering key hard about 10 times it will temporarily reduce or remove the chatter
like its cleaning the switch contacts
would rather use a fucking typewrite at that point
instead of constantly chattering inconsistent switches
So what do you type on right now?
You mean the keyboard that was on sale for $40 for like a year straight?
Aren't you complaining about how your board chatters all the time no matter what you do
yes whats your point
thats an inherent issue with switches
buying a $200 keyboard wont solve it if if it has the same switches
Well, maybe if it's chattering all the time no matter what, it's not necessarily the best budget board.
ive went through too many to waste my money on another expensive keyboard that will just chatter again
How many keyboards have you bought over the past 2 years?
probably a dozen
Have they all been as cheap as the EVGA?
no
i had a ducky one 2
durgod
a few razors
most of them i ended up returning because of chattering
So uh
With all of that lined up that way, do you maybe see where there may be some problem with your methodology
you can tell theres an inherent design issue when you have images like this of a single switch activation
with age it only gets worse
the debounce lasts longer
and if you bottom out the switches the contact bouncing is really bad
You kept buying cheap, high refresh rate, low-quality keyboards made by companies who are well known for QC problems. Neither Durgod nor Ducky make anything near 'custom' quality boards. They make black plastic cases filled with RGB shit. So you hate keyboards and dunk on high end ones because you've literally never tried to pull your head out of your ass and tried one that's not mass manufactured crap.
its an inherent fucking switch design flaw
its in every keyboard
cheap or expensive
Lol okay
the only way that companies or individuals making customs can reduce it is by binning switches for non chattering ones and testing every switch on every board before selling and that only stops the out of factory ones
Just weird that you guys who just show up literally every day to rant about switches are the only ones who even bring it up here, while people who have dropped not substantially more time or money but actually bought good quality products but are super focused on any small problem with their boards don't I guess.
they will develop chatter eventualy
Still, good luck with your $35 board that wasn't selling at MSRP
Ikki68 Aurora R2 Zen Pond, $190 for the special version. NK Creams I got from the NovelKeys mystery bags first round. Japanese Seiki springs, 62g, +-1g. Drop+MiTo MT3 Camillo keycaps, bought on BOGO sale with the Dasher kit.
Weirdly the Bakeneko65 I built for my wife with NK Box Creams and Akko Samurai caps doesn't have that problem either, and we are constantly typing.
That may be but at least I'm not showing up to bitch about how my superior high polling rate keyboard sucks ass every day, and that must mean that all boards are bad
If you guys think you're even remotely close to having any sort of special or competent knowledge about keyboards, you've got it bass ackwards.
didnt say that
i said all switches inherently have chatter and specs should be considered instead of fully aesthetics
im not the one preeching my $300 sticker anime keyboard is immune to chatter because its custom
Aesthetics are a consideration that I make, but then, they're also a consideration I make when I buy clothes, too. I use the effectively $55 MT3 caps because they're very comfortable under my fingertips and combine to make a very nice sound in combination with the long pole NK creams - which I paid $15 for. I spent $10 on an amazon order and swapped springs to something with +-1g of tolerance because it makes all my keys feel the same.
The $190 Zen Pond was something I liked but came with an aluminum top housing and stabs included, which made it a weirdly better deal than the base models of the Ikki68 Aurora R2 which everybody knew was going to be good because the R1 was good.
It's also been about 10 months since I built this board and I still like typing on it, which I do extensively every day, and my autistic ass is not driven crazy by dropped or doubled keystrokes because those don't happen. So, yes, money well spent sounds about right.
I'm not saying my board is immune to chatter. I'm saying that I don't experience it.
But please continue with your trend of having bought a dozen boards in the past couple years and saying that all mech boards are shit, I'm sure it'll eventually turn around for you
Weird, all that to scroll through and I didn't run into a single bit of chatter
Also, “anime” lol
Rq you are saying all switches will chatter with use right
Nah, Vit is saying that all switches chatter constantly
My anime keyboard would never
Vit have you tried throwing on anime stickers? That might help
Oh oh, you could use the lewd anime keycap set
That gives you +5 frames and a boost to teenage irony
For the record, Ducky and Durgod both suck ass. It's why they're so many people's first 'real' mech keyboards and they immediately want something better because they pushed some overpriced piece of shit marketed as 'budget' as far as it would go and it wasn't any good, even though they probably spent more trying to make it work than I did on my Ikki.
what is the difference between one of the keyboards that "suck ass" and a custom in terms of the PCB, MCU, and firmware because it seems to me like the only thing people can claim is better is how they sound or look or something
seems like the custom pcbs usually have much higher latency when someone actually measures them and up until recently many are not even at 1000hz by default
unless you screw with QMK to change the debounce algorithm and polling rate
its not a priorty and the people developing the pcbs and firmware for customs even stated that its not a priority to have low latency and good technical specifications
they care about how it sounds and looks above all else
i flashed a keyboard with QMK firmware just to have it actually become slower than it was stock even though it was a brand that "sucked ass"
fully ignores graphics showing debounce and just writes a novel about how his overpriced soy keycaps feels. no point trying to reason with "custom keyboard enthusiasts"
falls on deaf ears
like pulling teeth
You know I really should have just blocked you two idiots instead of talking, but I like talking keyboards because I build ones that don't make me miserable. However, now that I have talked, I can also learn.
write another paragraph about how your keycaps feel or how your spring swap is revolutionary
all you're good for
meanwhile being on the same "ass keyboard" pcb every custom keyboard uses
thoCC THOCc though am i right
what in the worm is going on in here lmao
Don't know ... gamer latency chill or something like that
don't care enough to get involved or to even read all of that ...
A more friendly keyboard discussion than your average r/mk thread
Two parties with equally flawed arguments plus ad hominem
That's what I said isn't it
In my defense I was being as magnanimous as I could manage to reflect on it that way when I disagree so vehemently with both your assessment of it and the other guys'. I don't spend time on r/mk and haven't in a year or so.
Thanks for the info. ^_^ It was really helpful
👍
I had never heard of this before. Good thing to consider 
It's kinda weird. I bought a set of 70g box style springs and I can barely depress them fully, whereas I'm extremely comfortable on 80g cherry-style springs. Not something that really gets talked about much, but I would agree overall that the switches referred to there don't need spring swaps anyway.
I feel like no matter what I order, I'll end up ordering more and in 2-3 years I'm going to have several sets -.-
Sure.. 2-3 years
How do yall feel about electric capacitive keyboards
good, better than mx
Really?
I thought they lacked any real sound that would be seen on a keyboard with linears.
I exclusively index for key feel
the only time I care about sound is if the stabs are annoying
That's true. I think that the sound matters in my own personal preference, but I do think that the feel does matter a lot and switches that sound good typically don't feel the best
though fyi the IBM model F is also an EC
Yeah
I ha very a 60 percent board that unfortunately has blue clicks switches, and it isn't hot swap
kk need some help looking for a decent wireless keyboard (tkl or or samller but not too small) thats not gonna break the bank mainly gonna be used to log in and brows on my home theater pc and maybe some light gaming but mainly gonna game using controler as its gonna be for single player games
K, do you want mechanical or membrane
Bleh, post processing my 3D prints is taking more effort than I was hoping
Also, any good wireless mechanical board is at least 40 dollars, what's your general price email range
mechanical sorry thought i said that my bad lol
Ok
and preferably less than 100 but 120 is max im willing to spend on the setup keyboard wise so if i cant find anything cheeper ill settle lol
If your willing to upgrade with some DIY mods and new switches and keycaps this is a good one
depending on the mods needed i can i dont know much about diy on keyboards
I recommend cheking out Hipyo Tech's channel, he has good vids on updating cheap Amazon boards
what switches and keycaps would you recommend i know how to swap them atleast lol
will do
Depending on the socket(the amazon one i sent is a normal socket i think) i would recommend updating to akko cream v3 yellow switches (or really any linears or tactiles, your personal preference) and probably keeping the keypads, if you do switch them, I would buy some double shot ones on etsy or amazon
The switches are the most important and I recommend you look up sound test for them, do you want quiet switches, thocky sounding switches, or normal clicky gaming switches?
quiet
OK, do you want noticeable feedback from the switch when pressing it or fully silent switches that have very little to no feedback
yea i still want feed back i was trying to say thay but it felt weird to say lmfao was gonna say quiet but still want feed back
The Gateron silent red or black switches are quiet but still have some feedback from pressing
im so new to this side of keyboards lol usually just buy some name brand thing
OK, well My recommendation is to get the board I sent a bit ago and customize it with your preferred switches or the ones I recommended and keep the keycaps unless you really want to replace them
alright
How new are you to keyboards if you don't mind me asking?
ty for the help
Your welcome
this will be the first ever keyboard i do a full switch swap on ive had to replace a switch or 2 on some buddies keyboard simply bc i am the tech guy and they didnt know how so i watched a youtube video on
only personaly owned razer keyboard myself
next board for my main rig ive been eyeing the moondrop board they just came out with
so very new lol
Yeah
Is your razer board hot swap?
If so you could save money by swapping out those switches and getting g new key caps
Ok
I made the mistake of buying a board that wasn't hotswap, I regret it to this day
just learn how to solder
gonna grab this fpr the main rig and switch up the headset i use
try and get a proper headphone like the hd650
the built in dac is wasted on some gaming branded ewaste
oh im not getting gaming ill be moving my old gaming headset over to my travel righ
i got recommend a good headset to grab a while back im gonna grab i forget the name ill have to look it up again later
almost every gaming headset is pretty much trash though, outside of a few exceptions
yeah i do really like the set i got rn but i agree ive listened to some high end shit now and wow
my buddy daily drives hifiman arya
endgame set up lol
it wows at first listen but its nothing special imo
@sleek sable whats the difference between gateron red and black?
Less actuation force on the reds
wonder if these would work so i can have the same switches on both boards lol
about the same price as the gaterons
I took the to good to be true bullet and i got the actual thing
I took it because free shipping
Bought it for 30$
I have no idea why he listed it for that cheap
Cheeper than the mouse even
And its new not box sealed
got the keyboard had a coupon fpr 3 dollars off wooot and Amazon next day delivery lets go
Sick




