#peripherals
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
hmm, nothing wrong tbh
i suggest building one without case foam?
topre is not ass sounding like most mx switches that you need foam to mask it out
i mean, yeah
i only have a topre because i want something that isn't going to annoy my family or friends but still feels great
ill test both configs but i have a feeling ill like the foamed board a little more. @ionic briar
Norbs are ass for what you pay anyway
Wooting 60HE: https://next.wooting.io/wooting-60he
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Tofu 60% case: https://kbdfans.com/r?id=rff1f3
Black blank keycaps: https://kbdfans.com/r?id=q1gl5f
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The future of gaming keyboards.
Video gear
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Wooting did it again
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i think its more like, they did it. now the channel that are not as niche as chyrosran22 finally caught up to it
The second video is from 4 years ago
Did it again as in competitive advantage again
Chyrosran was more about it being contactless and not mx
fair enough
I remember when the wooting Lekker came out they were allegedly banned from OSU tournaments for being unfair
Wooting incredibly based
figured, it's a flex product
Any keyboards recommendations that are similar to Akko's?
Something 60% and that has very silent keys?
And why not akko ?
akko
It's a bit expensive
Well, you get what you pay for.
The keyboards are around 100-150 but the shipping puts everything at around 200$
Never mind-
Yeah no doubt they are good quality but I was just wondering if anyone knew any alternatives
well you could get something like the rk61 or a keychron, and then swap in silent switches and pretty keycaps
akko is commonly one of the budget recommendations, it sucks that shipping etc is so expensive for you
what budget are you going for?
Around 100-150 shipping included (canadian)
I'm not difficult I really just want a nice 60% keyboard that has silent keys with rgb if possible
like keychron. rk
not as fun color ways and stuff but they're cheaper boards
still good quility tho
might be alittle out of budget but a nice option would be keychron q4 and then buying silent switchs and keycaps of your choice
Keychron Q4 is a fully customized 60% layout mechanical keyboard packed with all premium features and endless possibilities. Q4 is an all-metal keyboard that allows customizable capabilities for every key switch, keycap, and stabilizer. It’s made for your personalized experience and a more comfortable typing experience.
oh wait thats quite abit out of budget, sorry my bad I read that wrong
you could get rk61 or https://www.keychron.com/collections/60-layout-keyboards/products/keychron-k12-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39299048243289
Keychron K12 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard. 60% Layout. Wireless or Wired. and users can hot swap every switch in seconds with the hot-swappable version. Compatible with Mac, Windows, iOS, Android, Linux. Keychron Optical, Gateron Mechanical or Keychron Mechanical Switches. Connect up to 3 devices. 15+ RGB Backlight
again, would have to buy silent switches and swap them out but that should be in budget with those
Thank you for your time
& recommendations
I'm using a membrane keyboard right now and I like the feedback of the tactile and the low noise (not clickly or annoying or too loud)
Do you have any recommendations to which keycaps and lubricate or a kit to use to swap them?
Here's how it sounds like
for lube you would probably like krytox 205g0 but if you get a tactile switch and want to keep the tactility strong then maybe tribosis 3203/3204
Have you personally tried the akko jelly switches?
I've heard the lubed pinks and purple as well as black they sound nice
i havent yet personally but i know they are pretty dang good budget switches, do you want actual silent switches or just quietish?
for silent i really recommend the gazzew boba U4 silent
yes
nice tactile bump, very quiet
im using jelly blacks rn
jelly purple is a pretty light switch is all i would say, though many prefer that
Heyo!
Have another commission build today, and this is, by far, my favorite Tofu65 build yet! I don't even know if the videos do it justice, but this is one of the cleanest builds I have done thus far, in feel, sound, and aesthetics. Specs are below!
Specs:
Case - Black Tofu65 Aluminium w/ Brass Weight
Switches - KTT Kang Whites lubed with 205...
This is like perfect sound for me
so not silent, just not clicky
also I dont think you can get that sound with your budget
How much are we looking for, for that sound?
I could comfortably put around 200$ if that keyboard will last me a bit
thats an aluminum keyboard, if you treat it well it should last quite afew years
pretty sure thats the tofu65
Specs PCB: Soldered version (KBD67 Rev 2 soldered PCB) with RGB underglow, support VIA configurator Layout: ANSI or ISO layout Case: Tofu65 Gray Aluminum case Plate: Polycarbonate plate Keycaps: NP PBT Grey And Blue Keycaps Set (SKU: DP2759) Stabilizers: Cherry screw-in stabs 60 set PCB foam: Put it between PCB and Pla
I think I found it or something similar. What settings would you recommend?
personally wouldnt get the tofu, its a kinda dated board and theres better options out there now
thats a completed differnt board
but yes you'd have to buy the keycaps your self with that board
what do you think of that sound?
It sounds nice I just don't like the "clickyness" of it
But it is quiet indeed
I like a deeper THOC or something creamy
yea its a clacky board
Jumping on the bandwagon to mod Royal Kludge 61 one of the best budget keyboards out there.
Like the before and after of this
I really like the end result sound
for good “thock” youll probably need to at least some modding, (lubing, tape, foam etc)
ofc you do
Yes I will watch a few tutorials on that for sure
I think watching some videos from hipyo tech could benefit you
He has a lot of guides and such and he likes the thock
Anyone know where I can pick up an EVGA Z15 with linear switches pre-installed here in the UK? Can find it on Amazon but only via sketchy third-party sellers etc
Amazon themselves only seems to sell the clicky variant over here, Amazon US sells it but that's a US layout obviously
my old daily but sounds leagues better than my new one
i might go back to using this one because the quality is just so much better
Have you checked evga direct
Yeah, seems to be the best option rn, they don't have a UK site with £GBP but they have an EU site where the pricing is in euros and it seems to be the same board
Yeah, just checked
I've found better prices on it but hey ho 
Conversion considered it's around £90GBP
I have the purple jelly ... they feels nice but prefer the lavender purple feeling ... btw I don't care about the sound, just feeling
i wonder whats the cheapest keyboard kit that you can get
budget?
No budget
all preferance, but over all they're pretty bad
Keychron Q6 is a fully customized full-size layout mechanical keyboard packed with all premium features and endless possibilities. Q6 is an all-metal keyboard that allows customizable capabilities for every key switch, keycap, knob, and stabilizer. It’s made for your personalized experience and a more comfortable typing experience.
Thank you
Unikorn then
^
@spark hatch https://www.amazon.ca/EPOMAKER-Swappable-Mechanical-Dustproof-Waterproof/dp/B08BBZK6DB?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
What do you think of this? It's the same makers of the Akko I think
its not the same makers
They sell the akko keyboards on their store page I'm not totally sure
Ah I didn't know that
yea tehy jsut sell akko boards, they dont make them
But yeah this is a bit of a bummer I can't find 61 key kits
Only like 41
I wanted to switch them for pink jellys
have tou looked at rk61?
it's only bluetooth?
uhh can someone help me
im trying to mod an rk87 into sounding really thoccky but like not that loud
but idrk what to do to it kinda new to this whole keyboard thing
I'm really a noob at this whole keyboard modding but I've checked out a few videos.
I think that lubbing your switches and choosing the right switches as well will affect the sound. I think that keyboard comes with brown switches which is fairly quiet from what I've heard in videos.
You might consider adding O-Rings to make them quieter as well
Oring are meh at best
This lube is by far the most recommended one I've saw on forums
Also same comment for cherry mx
Yes there's so many switches tbh I would be extremely hard to put them all in a single chart
But do they all universally act the same? I'm taking about colors
For example akko red switches vs cherry red, do they sound somewhat similar and have a similar feel with a few minor differences
Not really tho
if you want quiet thock DO NOT get a cherry mx switch
What would you recommend Beanz
If you want thock get a nylon housing
It's really fascinating there's so much so learn about keyboard modding
Everything from case , to lube , to foam , tape, switches
Also thock is not a proper word to describe the sound of a switch ...
Later about that if someone is interested
you want to get plate foam and board foam, lube, film your switches and get a nice linear meant for it, im tactile gang so idk what the best “thocky” linears are rn
I mean imo it sounds pretty similar to the word as far as onomatopoeia goes or whatever its called
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DsZJ1k9WEs
Does this is what is referred as a thoccy sound?
This is a 19$ budget custom mechanical thocc thocky gamer hotswap keyboard
Specs
CIY tester 68
Gateron oil kings (lubed and filmed)
Shark epomaker keycaps
Duck tape friction fit
Foam and tape mod
Glarses I hope you are proud
Like a deep sound
Not clickily
yeah, usually “thock” is a bit deeper than that but yeah
the genesis of a "thocky" sound is this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SodlXpa3qjg
Keyboard: Realforce 87U Tenkeyless 55g (White/Gray)
Switches: Topre
Lube: Thick lube from techkeys
KDB Silence-X
Buy this keyboard: https://amzn.to/2GQLI2k
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nothing else comes close
tysm
im budget limited and was thinking of using caulkt to add to the base to do some sound dampening but some people have really mixed opinions on it and some say it can damage ur pcb and idrk if i should try using caulk or just sticking with regular sound dampening foam
You know personally I like the video I sent before yours. What do you think?
nothing much
It sounds deeper, more quiet and creamy
i personally dont care about how my keyboard sounds
Are you going for a tactile feeling and resistance?
but just saying, the video i posted is what "thock" originally meant
god knows what it means now
I see thanks man
What's your budget in USD?
uh
How budget limited?
lemme do a quik conversion
I'm trying to find some good keyboards that are pretty cheap so I can just mod the switches and just lube them, probably add tape and foam and call it a day
you already have the board right
I've done a bit of research the past few days for my own keyboard that I'm trying to mod.
A nice metal keyboard is around = 40-50$
The lube = 10-20$
Akko jelly switches 40pcs = ~25-30$
Tape = free
Foam = free
I think I can make a decent little project with all that
so we're veering off the caulk mod possibilities?
i wouldnt caulk the board
Oh I don't know what that means
I just don't want to do any soldering I'm afraid I'll fuck up my keyboard
cos of pcb damage or just general discretion
Idk much about caulk and how it would work in a keyb tbh so im not gonna recommend in case its dangerous
ah ic
cos like ic some people using 2 part epoxy rubber to sound proof their kb
like they add the tape and then the rubber too
yeah ive seen like resin and rubber molds and such i just dont know enough about the chemical properties of caulk
This is a cheap membrane keyboard that I've lubbed and added foam
I think it sounds pretty good tbh for my first ever "modding"
how do you mod a membrane :O
Id look into tape mod, get lube like 205g0 and lube your switches and stabilizers, see if any friends have any foam lying around
band aid mod lube and clip your stabs
I literally just used industrial grade lube and added foam under the board case
anyways for now i think the most satisfying sound is like just pretend typing on a large mousepad
it sounds pretty goood ngl
Thank you man
see heres the thing
You can also just buy foam for like less than a dollar
i found some people that use tape on the stabs
and some that use tape on the housing of the stabs
but never both
and im really confused for both scenarios
i have some PE foam but just thing enough for top of pcb
you put bandaid or medical tape on the housing and the pcb
im sticking with tape mod
so both..?
here ill send a vid
damn this some tedious stuff
Actually it wasn't even lube it was some grease
damn
Not sure if that will fuck my keyboard lmao
Do some research if it will damage the plastic / metal in the long term
hmmmmmmm
NO VASELINE!
y not
yea but my chemistry knowledge tells me it wont
soft parrafin is only a branch of the fractions off crude oil
just dont use any lube until you can afford it please
which last time i checked does not react with any polymers that are involved in the switches
so................
vaseline would make the switch feel like shit anyway
one small tub of lube is like 10 bucks
I mean hey if you really short on budget and don't care about the "health" of your keyboard then go for it
Vaseline breaks down the plastic
Use dielectric grease
It can degrade plastics
so how about switches
use lube for switches
Too viscous i think
I've used grease it works pretty well for membrane keyboards
im planning to replace my reds with blacks in the near future and just need something that works lmao
Ok, so the tape on the housing of the stabs is called holee mod iirc and bandaid mod is on the pcb
its tedious as fuck but worth to do both
i c
will do then ty :)
also can some1 check for me if i can do a 2 part epoxy rubber mod on my rk87 cos i just found some lying around in my garage
yeah on fucking stabs lol
.
not switches
yea we talking abt stabs here
not switches anymore
also calm ur language pls :) no need to get aggressive
ah okay misread
anyway yeah grease is fine, everyone just thinks it isnt now because there is a more expensive option
hmm shd i do krytox then or g lube
whichever is cheaper
Just curious what about this?
...
ive read many things about the dangers of those to pcbs
also spray lubing causes overlubing
most of the time
so i think its bad
idrk
ppl said it and this is outside my area of expertise so yea
hmmm
i mean also that wd-40 is kinda of like
spray lube material
and also overlubing
and also evaporation
its not viscous enough
so for the short time it isn’t evaporated it wont even help
oil isn't that viscous and its still a good option for lube
Hello, can anyone recommend me a good sounding stock keyboard, with a hotswap pcb and iso-de layout? (Available in Europe, obviously) Max Budget: 150 €
You can have 20 different sound and it will all be thock ... thock doesn't mean anything
If.it's petroleum based then yes ... it will melt plastic
Wait those are optical switches, you might not be able to put regular switches instead
unless that board supports both idk
I think it's fine for now. I'll probably buy another more expensive keyboard when this one dies I guess
Yeah i think you can only do other gateton opticals with that ( not my favoritr line of switch personally
also idk how easy lubing etc is with opticals, i mean its a completely different technology
No you cant
Aww that sucks
a keychron board is a good buy thats hotswap at that price
maybe rk61, thats cheaper tho
Uh i dont remember, rk61 comes in white i know
A 20$ keyboard with 20$ keycaps💀
Looks good. Can you do a sound test for us?
its gonna be bad but they are outemu blues
lemme try that with ma phone
@sand scarab here ya go
sorry for the bg noise lmao
Actually sounds better than i expected
i dont know what i should do about the spacebar
it sounds very off compared to other keys which is expected but still
Sounds good man tbh I thought I would cringe at the blue sound but that one sounds very nice
That space bar tho
you can try flipping the spacebar upside down
it does like a T-SK sound
also theres the bandaid mod, holee mod and lubing that you can do
on the stabilizer
i did try that but it made it really uncomfortable
Did you lube it?
yeah some profiles dont like that
nope
its oem profile from hyperx i think
I think lubing it would make it sound better if you don't want to swap the stabilizers
ok so lube it is
or for the keys, o-rings would make it more quiet and mushy
this was before the cap wap
i kinda want it sound like the other keys or as close as i can get
the first time i ordered the same in red switch variant and i hated it
heres the listing
o rings usually dont do almost anything
or they make it worse
i would like to try the lube way, many have suggested that
What do keyboard O-rings do? They soften the feel and dampen the sound of your switches! Here's how to install O rings on your mechanical keyboard ;)
STUFF IN THIS VIDEO
⌨️ Cheap O-rings on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3agi8Dz (what I use!)
⌨️ GMMK O-rings: https://amzn.to/3MZhs3O
⌨️ MK Pro O-rings: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=p...
Double o-rings on keys make it more quiet
i also wanted to pair this up with a white mouse but except the deathadder none were in my budget lmao
ended up getting the g502 as my first💀
makes it feel like a membrane
Yes it's really nice
orings are bad for mechanical keyboards
that time i had a 10$ mechanical feel keyboard
Video Sponsored by Ridge Wallet:
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Use Code “SQUASHY” for 10% off your order
in this video, i tried keyboards with o ring mods installed and tested how good they were. they are not good lol. dont try orings in your keyboards.
Follow me on twitter: https://twitter.com/squashydotboy
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Discord l...
honestly i dont like the idea of o rings even though im hearing about it for the first time
makes me remember about the rubber washers in moving parts
It's fine some people don't like them, I personally really like them
yeah so they basically take the whole point of a mechanical keyboard go out the window, so if you prefer membrane just use membrane not converting a mech into a membrane
Membrane keyboard lubed with foam
no way
i have never heard a memb anywhere close to that
cycle grease
What?
This stuff
Yeah mine is a bit more honey color but similar consistency
yeah its just because of my lighting
But I grease the fuck out of the space bar key
its heavy duty bicycle grease
Before it did an annoying clickily sound
mine does the annoying squeak
Yeah get that grease on a soft paintbrush and get to work
You can always clean it if you don't like the sound of it
Keys that don't fade?
ohhhh
Like the "WASD" doesn't fade away after a lot of usage
ahh np
Why does your keyboard ghost?
nahh
19?
Jesus
That doesn't sound like a lot but when are you ever going to press 19 keys at the same time?
taran moment
Lmao
That reddragon is my first purchased keyboard. I've only used the keyboards that came with my prebuilds
And in 2 days I'll get my first real mechanical keyboard
ohhh which one you getting?
optical? the analog type ones?? cooooool
Yes I'm excited I bought some premium lube too with it
ooo
I'll lube it and send the results here
Is that a razer keyboard?
i'll get it someday when i actually get time to play games
yeah
Ah razers has nice peripherals but they can be expensive when comparing to other products in the same category
used to like steelseries as well but after trying their headsets i honestly dont recommend them
i have their best value for money headphones and i mean they made like razer
barracuda x
also they are selling the deathadder essential in india for like 10$
honestly a keyboard that even has the ability to ghost at all is kind of terrible
nkro is extremely cheap
Check out the products mentioned below:
Razer Huntsman Family Line: https://www.razer.com/pc/gaming-keyboards/huntsman-family
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Razer Phantom Keycaps Upgrade Set: https://www.razer.com/gaming/keyboards/accessories/razer-phantom-keycap-upgrade-set
Razer PBT Keycaps a...
///
Today I mod the SK61 by using Krytox 205 g0 on Gateron Optical Red switches and filling the case with foam. I also swap the keycaps out with Mojito PBT keycaps from Banggood!
⬇️Affilliate links to help out the channel ⬇️
Get the SK61 here: https://epomaker.com?sca_ref=450109.wjDF4oHK4N&&sca_ref=450109.wjDF4oHK4N
SK61 Amazon Link: https://amzn.t...
Damn this is truly a nice sound!
is it bad that I use a mechanical kb with no lube or o rings
In 20 years ?
Not if you get an optical board
Lmao no I'll probably gift it to a friend and buy myself a DIY kit where I'll actually mod it to the max
It's preference
All I did was just lube my membrane keyboard and add some foam and I found the process so calming I can see myself getting a few keyboards in the future and experimenting with different switches, keys etc
I also got a 3d printer I might print my own keycaps
Something cool you can do with a steel series 😂
can you put a custom gif?
that'd be pretty cool
🤷🏼♂️
what keyboard is that btw
Haven't tried it to do things small like keycaps but I got decent 3d modeling skills to create something fun
Yes
I've got a few buddies at work that got stuff like that
I might give them a call and compare the quality of the keys
i really need help with windows detecting my keyboard
everything else detects it but windows
i can type in searchbar or setting
and i cannot use my kewyboard in any apps i got off microsoft store
Laptop keyboard poggers 👍
no
Nooo the corsair haters are back
The normie brand hater*
Ah, so now I know your trigger words
Microstar International
American Megatrends
ASUS
ACER
Corsair
Gigabyte
let us burn all razer, steelseries, and corsair keyboards
Logitech
yes
EagleTec
doesn't exist
Trust is worse
d e l l
?
Yum, pink
And dedicated media controls
That brands got the RGB down
Chuck some Cherry MX Reds on it, you got yourself a keyboard
gamecube controller best controller
Yes yes
the ABYX actually ergonomically placeed
not me who just bought an XBox controller because My PS4 controllers refuse to do things
With my PC or the PS4 now lol
Playstation controllers deserve to burn
they are made for toddlers
with alien hands
As a toddler, I agree
With alien hands, I agree
I grew up on PS3, Im a bit biased here lol
the hands required to use it
Yo thats a picture of my hands
Im the kind of person to be using WASD with my left hand, right hand on the mouse, and then while holding Left control with my pinky stretch my thumb to click the enter key because I'm a psychopath
razer too apparently
razer might be more hated than corsair
Budget: 40-45$
Rgb: YES
Blue switch
wired or wireless both ok
75% or less
rk61 with blues
extra like 2$ over budget but for sure worth it
The first three are unknown to most in terms of keyboard production
But, ASUS and Acer don’t make bad laptops and monitors
In fact, some of the better bang for the buck laptops and high end monitors are produced by them
The main concern buying from big brands like Razer, Logitech, Steelseries, Corsair, HyperX is their poor quality mass production methods
does corsair even have anything good
their keyboards are bad, their mouse are bad, their audio is bad, etc
razer, logitech and steelseries at least have some pretty good mice options
steelseries the least tho
Corsair SP120 fans, 4000D case?
Mice aren’t
Some are ok
Razer software becoming bloated, it’s a good UI but too resource intensive for some
their fans aren't good tho
they perform fine, but they ain't competing with T30, A12x25, P12, etc
I've never bothered with software like that
like my RGB settings for case stuff as well
once I set it up
I can remove the program and the settings stay
Probably why I’ll go Wooting
They got good headsets
Once they come into stock and I have cash for another keyboard, Wooting 60HE
Because they have online controller software
Sound quality would be trash compared to anything mentioned in #audio-tech
moondrop CHU, KSC75, KPH30i, etc all cheaper and beat it by a lot
could name a bunch more in ears
Of course there is better lmao I'm saying this particular headset is nice
Calm down lol
i use IJKL not WASD
can't call it good if something a lot cheaper beats it
oh no, here we go again...
someone who believes quality is subjective
instead of realizing quality and enjoyment isn't the same
Can you provide me with your criteria instead of bitching out
it ain't subjective when you can measure it, lol
Koss kph30i will sound better for about the same price
There's characteristic to sounds that can be described and that are not subjective and that has nothing to do with preference
It's the same for keyboards
Yea
There ... safe
Why get a Logitech G213 or Razer Cynosa when you have the EVGA Z15 with more features for half the price
which is actually regarded as good, being hotswap, coming with extra switches and a puller, and media keys
Cause of the hope that the evga board will be better than the logitech or razer maybe
?
The wording confuses me
Yeah I put that backward
Oh lol
EVGA be sadge rn, their keyboards are actually decent and outstanding for their USD price yet no one cares
Because they dk they make kbs
the Z20 even has a sensor which detects how far you are from the keyboard
How is it useful ? ... to determine if it should go to sleep or not even when there's no key press?
Yea
Or if it is precise enough, sound an RGB alarm of some sort if you walk funny
does it put the pc to sleep or just turn the backlight off?
Like if it’s accurate enough To determine your footstep patterns
seems like just an unnecessary thing just to bump the price up. not like other boards dont have lights that turn off when idle
You can set it to do that
i have one, the rgb software is where you change it so you can like set a certain effect as you approach or something, overall the software is pretty good imo and saves to firmware
the Z15 is much better than the z20 in my opinion though since its hotswap and cheaper and doesnt have dumb half useless macro row
I think z15 is a pretty good value at around 40$
Lol, If [sneak to keyboard] = true: activate “RGB alarm”
Ez anti-theft, just make all the lights cycle at hyperspeed but different timings
@past vortex RTINGS added an SRAV graph to their mouse reviews 🥳
this thing ? https://www.rtings.com/mouse/1-2/graph#21994/12683
I take you’re not too impressed
it’s not on all of them yet, thought you might’ve checked RTINGS a lot
I think it's good that they're starting to test in this way.
I find the graph harder to read then what's GWT test is doing.
Like clearly they've just started their automated sensor jurney
If you look at their rig, I think they could possibly get better results by doing something similar to GWT Test.
Ah
Like if you look at GWT tesxt, they have a standard platform. WHich they can bult almost any mouse onto. With very little travel, rotation, or lift issue.
They used to just group CPI /DPI deviation under “sensor specifications”
And now have realised “oh wait different mice with the same sensor don’t share the same deviation results”
Therefore it’s not like a stock issue
yah, firmware, other chips, extra.
it’s different depending on how it’s implemented
Like the Endgame Xm1r vs the previous results of the Pulsar Xlite Wireless V2
3% dev vs 6%
xm1r vs V2
same PAW3370 sensor
But for some goofy ah reason Endgame put the 3370 into a wired mouse
GWT has also shown speed changes the results as well.
maybe that was cheaper to do? or helps with the large up front part cost?
well the mouse itself is $54
But has the quality of one that’s at least $70
I was thinking it’d be more expensive yk, being a sensor designed for wireless use
if you look at a gwt cricle test.
it makes it very easy to understand what it means for a mouse to be more accurate.
Or for instance how bad a mouse is, in comparison to a good mouse.
Like visualy compelling.
like in the first one, the graph makes it look so similar, but it's much clearler that at 1600, the first mouse is best. BUT also mouse much error there is in that.
Especilly if it's compared to say a viper 8k at 1600 dpi.
more expensive sensors aren't always better ether. Like there some older sensors that have very suprisingly good accuracy.... At least at lower speeds. OR like it's more expensive, because it's higehr rez, but the sensor quality is still lacking. 🤷
I haven't really look at the specs of wireless sensors too much. Because ushally the wired ones are better. I know many wireless mice focused on battery life.
oh btw , sense you brought up the mouse. https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/359253994
And believe it or not, $50 dollar mouse getting special tier
I've heard of the EVGA Z15, but I've never swapped the key type of a keyboard before and I want tactile. Should I buy the linear version and swap the keys (they also sell the tactile keys I think)?
Get tactile ... and then swap them for better tactile if you get tired of them
Well you get the choice of linear/clicky out of the box
If you want linear get linear then buy their set of Kailh Speed Coppers, that’s the tactile stuff
For the same price, you could get a pair of sennheiser hd558s, which I have used for nearly 7 years and they have lasted all this time. And believe me, they are better in every way.
And because of the open back nature, they are an all round great pick for gaming.
Also I guarantee you will never get hot with these like you would with Corsair’s entire lineup
I only have a picture of them when I was putting in insulation for better sub-bass clarity
also fun fact, Markiplier used the 599's which were the leather version of these for ages, too
I don't think you can. I think you have to buy linear/clicky and swap them.
Okay.
Personally I think that’s the way to go if you are an MMO player
Since if you go linear, you get clicky switches as extras too
Which you can set to reprogrammed macro keys
You do?
To prevent accidents toggle
Yep
Oh, okay.
Gotta bounce 👋
👋
This is actually a super nice keyboard for people that are getting into the hobby
All Parts and Links:
Keyboard - (Keychron Q2) https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q2-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard
Switches - (Gateron KS-3) https://divinikey.com/collections/linear-switches/products/gateron-ks-3-milky-yellow-pro-linear-switches
Keycaps - (Akko Dracula Castle Keycap) https://en.akkogear.com/product/dracula-castle-keyc...
I just received my first 60% keyboard. It's the first time I got anything lower than a typical normal keyboard with a numpad etc...
So my question for you guys is how long does it typically take to get use to it? Like currently I'm still looking down at the keyboard to type.
^ The first row of the key (from the ESC key to the Backscape) is unlubed and the rest are lubbed. Applied a tape mod and added some cotton on the backplate
I don’t think a Glorious GMMK Pro is at all low range
This isnt by glorious
And i mean if your looking for a really good board in that for price range then its better than most of the boards in the same category
Quality control is a no though
At least recently
which brand?
glorious. I messaged their support like 3 times about different issues with plates, then revised plates, then lighting acting dumb... and they just told me to send it back and refunded me lol had basically the same things happen with their mice too
Which keyboard is better for gaming and typing? The akko 3068b or royal kludge rk84?
Akko keyboards are legendary smooth
Personally I haven't tried the kludge but I have tried the akko world tour and it was very nice
Akko are better than rk
Alr thx for the help
Hey guys I've got a question
So my switches which are gateron yellow's are too sensitive
As soon a I apply a tiny amount of pressure barely even clicking the key is registers
Is there a way to make the key press fully before it registers it?
Nope, the actuation point is something that cannot be changed unless you have an analog keyboard
You might want to get some heavier spring and spring swap
But new switches would be nicer ;)
true
@sand scarab how much was your keyboard?
i don know much about keyboards i just need a new one some time soon...
whats your budget?
I can teach ya a tiny bit 😅
and what are you looking for out of a keyboard
I am looking for a smaller keyboard, I bought a 200 dollar razer keyboard but i am starting to later now realize that was a poor money choice
more of a typing keyboard that has i guess that nice sounding click or "thock"
how small? 60%? 65% 75%?
Better question, do you want a number pad on the right?
60%
Nevermind he’s not brain dead 😅
I currently have the huntsman elite
Ah, I have a custom keyboard, it sound pretty good for $40
overall its a great keyboard but super loud and sometimes hard to type on
Keychron Q4 is a fully customized 60% layout mechanical keyboard packed with all premium features and endless possibilities. Q4 is an all-metal keyboard that allows customizable capabilities for every key switch, keycap, and stabilizer. It’s made for your personalized experience and a more comfortable typing experience.
or an akko board if you wnat smthn alittle cheaper
now that's a keyboard right there...
sound test?
Not home
84.99$ Canadian
That's a super good keyboard I personally love brown switches
not really in my price range tho kinda broke rn...
if sound is a big factor:
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/834558873398411335/1003382438367608913/20220731_132228.mp4?size=4096
I have the q1 v1 variant and its fairly modded but you cant expect it to sound smthn like that
that is crisp 👌
I will probably end up saving for those custom wood looking ones those sound+seem that they would type amazing
It's on sale in different color waves
thats a more clackiy sound signature
It's probably around 50$ usd now
if you were to save for the q4 I would recomend getting the barebones option and then getting switches and keycaps separate
seems well priced
my cousin is sending me his huntsman mini are those customizable?
if anything ill just buy new switches for that and get a cool looking cable
they are a bit expensive the razer keyboards
You could probably get a cheaper keyboard, get some lube, tape mode it and add some foam or a silver plate on the bottom of the case
Get it sounding less clicky
he is sending me that keyboard for free
Ah then that's pretty nice
good idea!
Check out this keyboard. The number row is unlubed
The rest are lubed, applied a tape mod and lubed the switches
// You can clearly hear the top row is very clicky and annoying
I personally like how they sound when they are lubed a lot more
Might seem very small in size but this should be enough to cover 2-3 full keyboards. And it's less than 10$ usd on amazon
Is that 3 or 5ml?
9.92 grams
damn
where tf u find it for under 10
It should be around 10$ usd for you
Oh wait grams nvm
$12 max
where I am, you can get the viper 8k for the same price. And it's lighter, slightly more accuraite, and has 1,2,4,8k sampling. Some people think xm1r is slightly faster click. But like for lots of people, it's probable going to boil down to mouse shape, cable, and prefrence.
the g102 has a lot of error with circles. 20-70% 💀
is there any english publication of gwt's test data?
@spark hatch @unkempt dome hey I actually found a little way to make it better
I added a bit of cotton under the keycap and thus making it require slightly more pressure
(from reddit)
but very similar in appearance
I just right click, google translate 🤷
I wonder if the G102 is using some sort of software ajustment, that breaks down on curves.
also, the logitech mice seem to do better on the logitech track pads. 🤷
I could try translate, native Chinese speaker I am
Mousepads you mean 
Meanwhile I’m chilling with a clone G Pro Hero 
like a nock off, or just simlar?
Logitech G102, G203, G Pro Hero all copied each other’s designs
I have the third
they share the same eggshell shape
And recently Fantech copied Logitech to create the Fantech Aria XD7, tho it looks more like an upgraded Razer Orochi V2
G102 and G203 have the same basic 8000 DPI sensor. G Pro Hero is the “upgraded” version with the Hero 25K sensor
No software so “lighter load”, pure gaming mouse where you map binds to buttons in-game
do you still have control over the DPI at that point? or are you basicly locked into 400, 800, 1200, extra?
and it’s got Kailh GM 8.0 switches which you can actually find specs for, instead of a bare description and company-oriented name
So better for mouse enthusiasts
Locked unfortunately, for the Xm1r
Which is where messing with sensitivity settings comes in
eDPI can make up for “lost dpi”
Like 1200 0.8 sens = 600 1.6 sens
gives you the same eDPI, if we don’t count the variation between certain games (exact same value in the same game, but not Fortnite vs CS:GO for example)
My mouse is jsut a worn Roccat kain 100 lmao. I've replaced it's switches twice at this point if I remver correctly
When roccat was in their early days. Aye
What about their early days?
Just for the record
Before they developed paracord cabling for their mice, if I’m not wrong
The Kone series are the newest to date
Burst preceded them
Kain was the first I think
I wouldn't know I'll take your word for it. I got the kain around when it launched I think? I got it when it got abunch of hype in the drag clicking community
I can see why it’d be good for drag lol
It's the best drag mouse I've ever owned
And I personally really like it out side of drag clicking too
Which other drag clicking mice kinda lack, usually you'd only by for the drag otherwise they're ergonomics are shit
Glorious is mid for drag, they only go down to 2ms Debouce
eDPI is often misused and misleading. Often people are talking abotu MPI or CPI, when they use eDPI. But yah, more people need to learn how windows multiplier, or in game multiplier really works. Because lots of people say stuff like. Oh I can't goto 800 DPI, because it's too fast. and it's like NO. It's not too fast, it's just your multiplier is too high. You can reduce your multiplier and it will feal exactly the same.
But like right now windows really needs a custom value set option. Like ok, I can set 1.0 or 1.25, but not 1.01-1.024.
Roccat and bloody go down to "0"
Also bloody has shit ergonomics, questionable design, and (so I've heard) a mediocre sensor at best but idk if that last ones true
So from big to small adjustments, the order is DPI —> sensitivity —> in game multiplier
well many games are now raw mouse input. Or at least can be set that way.
but yah, even if you do raw, your going to want to ajust your windows sensitivty multiplier. so your cursor doesn't go crazy fast or slow.
but it's like you probable want your DPI to be at the best performance point of the mouse. Which may mean ajusting your multiplier to get to that setting.
That or you want to get cloest to your 'real' dpi.
So, DPI = adjustments in 50/100/1000 raw DPI, sensitivity by +/- 10 to 100 or so eDPI depending on decimal place, multiplier from 1 to hundreds of eDPI
tbh I wonder how many decimal places you can adjust multi
If it’s more/equiv to 3 dp then 1 DPI adjustments are possible theoretically
apparently in linux you can set your mouse to any DPI. But not sure if that's just sampling. 🤷 but like unless there a hardware reason, it's like why not let us set any DPI we want?
Usually in controller software for mice, it’s hardware limited
Possibly the software functions are made to be universally compatible, when talking sens and multi
So at certain viable settings the mouse is most stable in terms of tracking performance
like for example any mouse can be set to 1.5 sens in a given game
But not all are accurate enough to do 1.543759
Or the onboard hardware would be like “Nani dafuk $:@(“”/&” and go nuts
Only reason why not would be sensor issues like overshoot
Whereas for an 8 DP value, “this sensor no track sub-micron level”
I know that Logitech can pull a gigachad here though , Hero sensor is designed for that supposedly
^ when things aren’t universally the same
Roccat Owl-Eye on the other hand is accurate, but overshoot/undershoots on the KPA
well if a mouse is 110% or 90%, does it really matter if your using
800 @ .5
400 @ 1
200 @ 2
as a multiplier?
True
Single digit values I’d agree, freedom of choice for all
But 8 digit values no
although if there is going to be a “quantum revolution” in the near or far future by then it’s be a no brainer to allow any number of decimal values be custom since mouse sensors should people still find mice useful would be accurate as hell
i just notice, thats the g102 gen 2
but both this and the gen 1 uses the same sensor right?
like I assume it scales liniar, so probable doesn't matter as much if all DPI behave the same if it's 110%, or 90%.
But we know real world too low/high DPI, and error rate increases.
Like ona razer viper 8k. 800@.5 would be better then 400@1. sense it has less error.
But if you were switching between mice regulalry. Like you'd probable 400 to be 400, and 800 to be 800. Like ordering shows from diffrent companies.
But like skipping, at 800 @ .5, vs 400 @ 1, I feel like a logitech or razer employee could really tell us alot about this kind of thing.
Their test was in 2021. When did gen 2 come out?
It looks like GWT was testing the 2020 G102 LIGHTSYNC (v2) , not the G102 prodigy (v1)
yep, the lightsync is the 2nd gen update
i got the prodigy
but iirc both uses the mercury sensor
thats a software?
yah
In general older sensors seem to perform worse then newer sensors. And older mice from a few years ago, tend to have higher click latency.
the G703 was a 2017 mouse, and had 6 ms of click latency. SO the G102 Prodig, probable has similar 6 ms of click latency.
But like that's a generalization. so the G102 prodigy might not fair that great against a newer mouse. BUT like yah, without data, 🤷 .
I wrote this to be a simple mouse testing software that has built-in plotting, CSV save and load, and plot export to PNG capability.
Full source code can be found on GitHub, just search for MouseTester by microe1.
It uses an open source (MIT License) plotting library called OxyPlot that can...
but the github seems to have newer https://github.com/microe1/MouseTester
interesting
rtings do have my mouse latency measured
theres that
around 4ms
It looks like rtings measures click latency with a high speed camera.
The way i've seen most people measure click latency is they create a short between test mouse and right click on another mouse.
So every time they click, they get a diffrence between the two mice.
I'm not sure which is more accurate at measuring click latency.
Like shorting may not take into account the michanics, or resitence of clicking. And if the button itself is some how mechanically, or electricity faster. But I haven't seen any one test both, to compare results.
But highspeed camera might have other kinds of interpiting error, bias, frame rate, extra.
The high speed camera provides an exact measure, accurate or not
the comparison between mice, you'd have to assume the baseline is 0ms latency which is technically "bs" because there'll always be latency, since time is required for movement/click data to travel from the mouse to the computer mobo
then registered onscreen
its better if you know the baseline's approximate measure from a high speed camera, in my opinion so you can use the +/- [enter figure in ms] to figure out the click latency of models scoring higher latencies
also, usually the second method of comparison to one another is only relative to the baseline model; it would be different for the second mouse up vs the fourth lowest click latency mouse, for example. (This is what TechPowerUp does from my observation)
whereas the high speed camera method would produce a measure which is universal
I think RTINGS uses a high speed camera, highest polling rate available, 360hz monitor and like an RTX 3080 11900K build to test it
with Nvidia Reflex Analyser (monitor is the ASUS ROG Swift PG259QNR I'm pretty sure) enabled [at least before they updated their methodology, this was the case]
Their tests are simulated to be as similar to user experience as possible, so:
perhaps TechPowerUp does this test in a way that does ensure near zero latency; maybe removing the finger cover of the main switches and clicking them directly
so as to not be affected by pre-travel latency
Are there any benefit of doing the tape mode multiple times (extra layers)
And what material should I put under the pcb and in the bottom case to make it sound better
anyone in this chat awake?
No
Just ask what you want to ask, lol
😐
you want to build completely from the ground up?
yea
I would advise against it if you're a beginner
if you're a beginner I'd maybe recommend starting with a prebuilt and modding it
How expensive do you think it's gonna be?
you can still do lots with modding prebuilts. new switches. keycaps, sound profiles, ect
300 to 500 maybe
Ahh.. Yeah, you take the 300 and about half that
After about $400, it's pretty much already luxury territory
well depending on the built they do it could be that
dang ik they could be expensive but i was thinking higher
like way higher
I have a 550~$ cad keychron q1
Be good enough and you can mod one for less than that ='D
oh it very well can be
im just starting so i doubt that will happen until years later maybe less idk
but it definetally doesnt have to
I have some boards that sound and look very nice despite being like 40$ amazon boards that I've just put in the effort to mod properly
but i def need a new one some of my keys feel sluggish and its kinda loud
impressive
So a building kit/keyboard, switches, (stabs if the one included are shit), caps, lube..
sounds expensive
since your budget is alittel higher and you do wanna do a custom you could either get a cheaper board and mod it. or you could get a bare bones and built the rest of the board
which would you advise for someone doing this for the first time
say for example keychron q series
on the low low end a royalkludge board (very popular budget board)
or on the higher end you could do a keychron
Building kits and keyboards to mod vary heavily, switches also do but don't have to be expensive, there's enough $25-$30 switch kits, stabilizers are pretty cheap, keycaps CAN be expensive, ranges usually between $40 and a $100, even good lube can be gotten for about $10, depends on how much you buy
they seem good do they come pre lubed or no?
keychorn does but they have shitty stock switches (switches are fine theres just better option out there) and the lube if veryyy thin
If you want to learn how to build keyboards, learning how to lube properly is essential anyway
i should've been specific i was talking bout the royal kludge
I dont think they do
but If you wanna do a custom knowing how to lube is pretty important, also you woulnt want the stock swithces from royal anyway
what akira said, didnt mean to copy didnt see this message
Also not as simple as using a brush and applying lube on every single switch, comes with a bit of knowledge needed
theres yt videos out there
ik i was looking at one earlier
As in; you can't lube every switch the same way if you want to keep the characteristics of each type of switch :o
a barebones board if you're willing to pay extra for switches and keycaps, the Pulsar PCMK
unless ive got the name mistaken I think keybored makes a pretty good lube guid'
however an absolute beginner might as well take a Royal Kludge
yea im wanting to get into the hobby
ill check them out in the morning
what special about it? looks kinda ugly in my opinion
welp your second board could be the PCMK then, once you know how to install switches and keycaps
but I dont like floating keycaps so im bias there
easy to mod, look great with G.SKILL crystal crown caps, Pulsar software at the ready
I mean yeah, but simply taking Krytox and going with it is going to suffice
gtocha
the board i was looking at was 60% ima try and find a 75%
and being able to see the circuit board bc transparent plastic case
but not the creaky kind of plastic
i.e. so you know if you fucked up a mod lol
The expensive kind of plastic mhm
yea it takes time to get it. but watching some guides on how to do it is a good idea
board itself is only like $49 USD
barebones
whats better in your opinion 60% or 75%?
what do you plan to use the kb for?
and can you live with toggling two keys for arrow key functions
gaming and school work
preferance
no better
what ever you like
can you live without arrow keys or home pad
or function keys
yea i can manage
I can live without numpad, but not without arrowkeys x)
I play a lot of emulated games, sooo, yeah
is it at least cheaper?
depends
Depends, but often no
ill prolly just mod this one
the Ducky One Three Mini well the entire lineup is expensive
you could settle for the GMMK 2
is it QMK compatible? if you want arrow keys
I have a one two mini and definitely abused the case
thats a pretty good choice, theres tons of guides on modding that board online
it has royals software
alright thank you for the help everyone but ive gotta get to bed gotta trip tomorrow
I have no idea how good its software is but ik it has it
I put foam in it, took off the black case frame, cut off the side of the case
ah
np, gald to help. if you have anymore questions later dont hesitate to ask
0-0
before i go i got one last question
fire at will
its possible to mod those keykaps right bc i dont trust myself with white
Yes, so if I have ugly bling bling, I might as well give the board the chance to bling bling out of the sides as well
you can buy aftermarket, some good ones are the crystal crown keycaps
just get new ones
theres tons of keycaps
and they're usually not to much for cheaper ones
alright ill prolly get ones that match the theme my desk is going for
G.SKILL's crystal crowns come in black or white, RGB shines through the side of the switch too
tysm everyone
good quility ones will run you 70%~ give or take and cheaper ones will be like 40$

^
be careful with numbers buddy
I dm'ed him dw
I have lied in the past to keep myself safe
he's good natured, no need to turn him to jam with a hammer
mhm
gn. have a good one
Mods:
↓
-Switches: Lubed Gateron yellows with Krytox205g0 and applied Durock switch films
-Used EVA case dampener under the pcb
-Stabilizers: clipped, relubed, used band aid mod and holee mod
-Spacebar: to get a deeper sound signature I putted handkerchief into the spacebar keycap gaps and glued it down
-Keycaps are lucky carp oem pbt (ansi)
...
sounds alot better than I thought it would I will admit
You do be lyin-
Mhm, like how Optimum Tech didn’t know how good the Wooting 60HE would sound
AND YOURE still up
Sorry-
tbh I wouldnt have thought it sounded good since its got those "weird" switches but wooting did a really good job with it so 👏 to them
There’s sound dampening :p
Apparently it’s also a universally compatible tray mount so ig you could seat others boards in the switch case
RIP Optimum being an Apex Legends try hard though, he tried to use Tachyon Mode (lowest debounce and latency possible) but with custom cabling, not enough power so his keys had a disco party
yea, ive seen some people put in tofu65
With the mod tap functionality on the keyboard switches mapping two commands to one switch, I can see MMO players taking advantage of that and opting for the 60HE over a massive 100% restricting their mouse movement
In tournaments*
Oh dear-
What a horrific waste of money, if that’s all they bought the 60HE for
to each there own
Lol, well the analog and tachyon mode is at least worth a try
It’s interesting how advanced but simple the Hall effect is on those switches too
the board still functions the same its just in a differnt case
Keys which reset immediately after pressing
doesnt it just use magnets or some shit
Yep
yea, amazing idea idk who thought of that but good on them
I wonder how keys not resetting after a press immediately is even a thing
Hall effect switches have been around since like the 80s
Hall effect sensing is pretty common in analog sensing applications
good to know
Wooting’s been doing the analog thing for a few years now
Started with optical analog
yea I knew they had be doing it for abit. seems to be getting alot of cover recently tho
It’s taking people a while to realize cherry speed silver isn’t the be all end all
https://youtu.be/oDozftThFMw here’s a Hall effect board from 1980
Skip to 14:40 for a typing demonstration.
How Hall effect keyboard switches work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37tdDoC7rGA&t=136s
Follow me on Twitter for updates on my keyboard videos! https://twitter.com/chyrosran22
My other keyboard reviews: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL285ATFsHGY9JnaQemdjRLEMmLRKpmbfB
I'm Thomas and I do ke...
Looks like a hacker remapped all their executive code to macro keys and put custom keycaps on those
“Breach network” “disable system” “enter alt [incognito] mode”
But then again I’m sure there were more keys that were essential
Flaretech Linear55 and Clicky55 optical switches
Wooting One, TKL board
