#networking
1 messages Β· Page 309 of 1
alright
I got nothing to test it from another pc my brother wont let me use his
is there a way to test it from my own pc
hi, it turns out I have a very bad Network adapter: Realtek RTL8822CE 802.11ac PCIe Adapter.
Are there any recommendations with what i should replace it?
and should i wait till my Warranty is over? Or would Hp replace it for me?
how do you know it is bad?
realtek cards are flakey at best from my experience, an Intel card to replace isn't too expensive and will probably be more stable than the realtek. something like ax200 will do nicely
Replacing garbage with garbage doesn't make it good
and replacing a wifi card shouldn't void warranty
I thought let alone opening the lid would void the warranty
you can try upgrading the driver first for the nic
its up to date
the other thing you should do as a troubleshooting step is do a continuous ping to your router to monitor the latency
any issues should show up in the ping
as either loss or latency increases
that will allow you to verify whether the problem is between your wireless card and your router, or between the router and the internet
but on other devices in my house the internet works fine
that's all well and good, and there is a fairly good chance it is the NIC, but if it was me, I would want to verify that before spending the money on a new one
especially since it is relatively easy to do
yeah ok, which program should i use
how far is the laptop from the router
you can go to the windows command prompt and ping the router with ping 192.168.1.1 -t
or whatever the ip of the router is
about 5-7 meters
it will ping it over and over again until you hit ctrl-c to stop
you will see big latency fluctuations or loss if something is wrong like interference or a fault in the card
if you do see latency fluctuations, try bringing the laptop closer to router and see if they go away
should i do 3 mins?
yeah.. if the issue happens as often as you say you should see something within that time frame
alright ima try that
and again if you see latency or loss, try moving the laptop closer to see if it goes away when it gets closer to the router.. if it does, the problem is most likely caused by interference and not a faulty card
the card is dual band so it will be able to choose 5ghz or 2.4ghz and the interference may only be on one or the other
average: 31ms Max: 254ms min: 1ms
@clear igloo Looks like CCIE-SP is on hold. Mini JNCIE-SP bootcamp tomorrow and then work is paying for the self study bundle. We'll see how this goes as through the JNCIP-SP, all study material is Cisco because Juniper love its paywalls
lol, nice
Its all also remote for the lab which sketches me out
Yah, that's generally how the CCIE is now too, the only exception is part of the collab I think, or do you mean the training lab?
yeah you have some bad latency spikes in there, see what happens when you go closer to the router
I mean the actually test lab. I didn't think Cisco was doing remote lab for the IE is it?
Yah, even when it was out of SJC and RTP you didn't get hands on π¦ and the REALLY crap part is they nixed RTP and SJC for in person too so I'd have to fly to Richardson to take it, or at least that's what it was a couple years ago, not sure how the global issues have changed that
@thick minnow if the latency becomes stable when you go closer to the router the problem is most likely caused by interference
Honestly for any IE lab I prefer to travel, less chance of something happening remote during testing for them to call out cheating or just general outages. I know it was up until a few months ago the new IE was only taken by one person in house as testing centers were all shutdown.
Yah, remote as in home remote is really sketch
I thought you were at first just saying like in a proctored/locked down room kind of remote
Average: 14ms Max:162 min:2ms
i guess it is somewhat better
How many other devices on the wireless network?
but there still spikes above 150ms
you're still getting some spikes when it is close but they are smaller
is it connected via 2.4ghz or via 5ghz right now
a tv, and 3 more laptops at max usage
right now only a tv though
is the TV streaming or just sitting idle?
streaming
if there are no warranty stickers, it's allowed, you only void your warranty if you break something because you opened it up
lol wrong reply
Ah, if its pulling data that explains it a bit
and breaking something while replacing a wifi card is rather difficult actually
i tried changing one before on another laptop, it aint hard
how do i check that?
first, does your router have a single SSID for both 2.4ghz and 5ghz or is it a single SSID?
since wireless is shared medium the router/AP has to go between clients and there could be interference from other devices off your network if you're in a apartment or townhome. Streaming is generally more download and buffer than constant stream data so it would explain the intermittent spikes if it's buffering more data
if it has a separate SSID for 5ghz you will see another SSID like your main one but with something like -5G or -5GHz somewhere in the name
usually has two different MAC addresses written on the back
if it has two wireless bands
i woudnt expect it to be that much better without the tv, cuz it happens also when im home alone
Are you in a area with a lot of other wireless networks? like an apartment building?
if you are connectng via 2.4ghz, that sort of latency deviation is actually quite normal due to how much 2.4ghz interference there is
it would be unusual for 5ghz
@clear igloo Getting those two APs 
Yah, I could see some of it on a 5ghz network where the ap isn't changing bands and defaults to one and stays
nope at a house
Click on the wifi icon on the bottom right, click properties for the network name and then find Network band
@thick minnow as I asked before, does your router have separate SSID's (network names) for 2.4ghz and 5ghz or are they the same
me or finrod?
well when you are choosing a wifi network to connect to, do you see it once in the list or twice?
twice because i have a vpn
if you see it twice, once with like a -5G or -5GHz in the name and one without, then you have separate SSID's for 2.4ghz and 5ghz
i meant finrod
is there like "TELUS-4200-2.4G" and "TELUS-4200-5G" or something similar with your wifi provider name?
no
@clear igloo We're getting the uap-ac-m-pro and uap-ac-lite
its a 2.4 GHZ only
on your phone?
~$280 from B&H
very nice π
With free 2 day shipping
neither
Now I'm gonna have to jerry rig an AP onto a tripod
mk, now can you check on your phone are you connected 5g or 2.4
Nothing gaff tape & zip ties can't solve
Ah, that explains it @thick minnow
that fritzbox model is 2.4ghz only
you're not going to get great latency and loss results without dual band ac wireless
@clear igloo I'm trying to get my grandmother's church to upgrade their network before/when they upgrade their live streaming and such equipment.
to 2.4GHZ
Very cool, get them some super powerful stuff π
read above finrod's message
They have a Netgear router with 10/100 ports...

And idk what model Seano networks APs
dw it's still fast ethernet
This is what I'm planning on to upgrade them to...
Its a hell of an upgrade for them π€£
that switch is a bit overkill no?
Ummm, excuse you, I see no WiFi6E APs in there π
Switch is not really overkill
and no RGB either?!?! tsk tsk tsk
what does that mean for my card upgrade?
Not worth it
10.5W * 2 for nanoHD
6.5 * 6 for LR
21+39=51W
USW-24-PoE only has 95W of PoE, which is getting too close imo for future upgradability
@thick minnow if your AP dont support ac wireless, then it doesnt matter what card you have
it means it probably wouldn't help much.. my guess is that you have a 2.4ghz interference source, possibly close to where you are using your laptop normally.. and if you are normally using that device for zoom, zoom is more demanding on the network and you will generally see more issues from latency and loss than you would from, say, streaming netflix
Plus, it would also give us 802.3bt π
you'd be a lot better off with ac wireless and see how it works when you connect up via 5ghz
the loss and latency you are seeing is normal for 2.4ghz and that's why most people get dual band these days
so if I wanted to add some beefy PoE devices I could lol
so basically i would have to replace my router to an ac wireless support router
Plus who doesn't want 10 gig π @clear igloo
yes, that would be the best approach, since there is a good chance replacing the wireless card in the laptop would not make any difference and you would be out that money
better to spend the money on a dual band router
Also, Lurick, I could spec WiFi 6 APs but the U6 Lite is sold out lol
i have feared this, because we just renewed our internet subscription for 2 years last june
the ISP I am with rents the router and it can be upgraded mid contract by paying like a $20 fee or something
so you might ask them to see what is possible
i dont think German providers like 1&1 (a very poor provider in compare to Telekom and vodaphone) would have that option
but i will inform myself more about that
call them and ask, it doesn't hurt to ask them
i will do that
fiber optics are superior
and if they can't do it, you always have the option of buying a dual band ac access point, connecting it to your router, and turning off the wifi in the router
wait you can do that?
yeah with most equipment you can configure it in such a way that you can use your own equipment
yes you can
for example with mikrotik, you could buy a small router without wireless
and then a seperate AP
and if you need more coverage
you can just buy another antenna and hook it up to your network with a cable
I hate ISPs like optimum here that force you to use their fiber gateway
and passthough mode doesn't work
im liking what im seeing, im seeing what im likingπ
@thick minnow what kind of net speed do you have?
50 mbits
do you want to go future proof of or cheap? xD
I'd actually be ok with AT&T now
almost all of the home router vendors also sell wireless access points (which are not routers).. you can use a router as a wireless access point too but it would take some extra config since you would have to disable the dhcp server etc.
Their new router uses a GPON SFP
So you can that sucker out and run WPA supplicant on your router and have SFP directly into the router
@rocky badge those dont work on mikrotik stupidly enough
Β―_(γ)_/Β―
so it is easier to buy something that is designed to be an access point
it would be hard to convince my parents for future proof
@thick minnow if you ever get fiber optics, its useful to have a router that is capable of such speeds
but even with sfp that still requires the router to decode the GPON right?
yes true
GPON SFP module
yeah ik
@peak cloak no.. a GPON SFP module does GPON entirely by itself
really?
I heard it doesn't
the router just sees it as an SFP interface so you can use any router
nice
Some people say they're having issues but my friend is doing it just fine
i do need to check if i could change the subs from the provider for just a fee
the only thing that might be a concern is that some of the GPON SFP modules can run quite hot
@thick minnow https://mikrotik.com/product/hex_s either this one without wireless
if your device has passive cooling instead of fans, and the module runs hot, the module could overheat and fail or be unreliable due to overheating
@thick minnow https://mikrotik.com/product/hap_ac2 this one is also quite decent for cheap price
GPON SFP modules consume more power and run hotter because they are so complicated, they are basically taking an entire GPON ONT and shoving it into a few centimetres space
the ac3 is a more expensive model, but it has better coverage
but its difficult to get your hands on them right now
maybe a dumb question but i live in Germany, would these things still work?
yup
yeah
its crazy lol
@thick minnow this thing is basically just a router, with 5 ports that you can configure however you like. The markings on the box are just the default
@thick minnow it can also provide power over one of its ports, to an AP
it is
if your router is in a place where you don't want your AP, then you can use that
so what is my speed gonna be limited by?
if my ISP used UFiber in my area, I'm in an Adtran area, I would so totally ask to use https://store.ui.com/collections/operator-isp-infrastructure/products/uf-instant @tender hazel
@thick minnow routing wise, these things push about 2gbit/s.
They have gigabit ethernet, so max throughput per port is 1G
I guess Adtran has a GPON SFP but idk if they would provide one for me lol
@thick minnow wireless, depends on the frequency configurations you use on your AP
and also how good the signal is
so lets say i would have dual ac connection
yes adtran does have a GPON SFP module of some kind, it isn't listed on their main website for some reason, only the support site.. we were looking at buying them and putting them into hex s units as a do-it-yourself GPON ONT
Or just upgrade to business and get them to gimme that AE
@thick minnow the idea of dual band is that you just have two radios on the AP, one for 2.4GHz and the other 5GHz
when you are close to the AP the device uses 5GHz if it can
Not entirely, ONTs still have an internal SFP that handle the signal. Like with Calix/Adtran, you can open the ONTs and replace the SFPs. ONTs/routers do not handle the signaling
when you have poor reception, it switches to 2.4GHz
but close doesn't necessarily mean right next to it
π
ok, i understand
oh interesting, I've never cracked one open so I didn't know
but yeah, if you have multiple rooms you want 5GHz, you need multiple APs
I wish I could crack my ONT open lol
@rocky badge have you inspected the board for any UART ports?
sometimes they remove the pins
and you can solder your own on there
what are good bang for buck APs out there?
I'm too lazy to find a head that can open the telco access screw
To remove the plastic shroud covering the main board
@thick minnow well, if you want to stay with a single vendor for ease of use
you can either pick mikrotik, which is a bit more involved
or go with unifi, which I know little to nothing a bout
you nag @rocky badge for that
mikrotik doesnt offer wifi 6 yet
I also want to see if I could power the stupid ONT with PoE
@thick minnow the hAP ac2 I linked https://mikrotik.com/product/hap_ac2
@thick minnow this one has dual band wireless
its a router/AP combo
is one AP for a 100m^2 floor enough from mikrotik?
only if the AP was in the exact middle
if its in one area of the house
you might want to run a cable
and hook up one of these: https://mikrotik.com/product/cap_ac
perhaps mount it on the wall or ceiling, that gives excellent coverage
Someone who knows if this https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1110903/avm-fritz-powerline-1260e-wlan-set-international-20002819.html works together with this https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1256647/devolo-magic-1-lan-single-eu-stekker.html ?
its stepping up from 13.5V to at least 75V for POTS ringing lol
I just want to get rid of the stupidly huge wall wart
POTs ring is upwards of 90v over copper. Trust me that you feel DC much more than AC π©
Yeah....
its so fucking big like why
All its doing is 120v -> 13.5v at like 2.6A
my ont has this big external thing
I think it's battery backup
but when I unplugged it, it still turned off immediately
lol
the mikrotik cap ac doesn't have the antenna gain like the higher end unifi ap's do, but their receive sensitivity is good
there are lots of choices, you can do some research online.. mikrotik is more for hobbyists who like to tinker with things because it gives you access to a lot more settings than most routers make available, but it can be used as a home option too. If you prefer something simpler there are many many options. Ubiquiti UniFi is great but is on the more expensive side
the ubiquiti interface is very idiot proof
And adding more APs to it is a breeze....
The controller auto discovers the devices and I just click "adopt"...all of the side wide settings are copied to the device
So glad all of my neighbors have routers that can't use DFS
So much free 5GHz
in my apartment here I have this sonos speaker behind my TV.. at first I tried connecting it via wifi but it is 2.4ghz only so the connection wasn't very good.. I had to take a spare mikrotik router I had laying around and plug it into the sonos speaker and wireless bridge it back to my main router via 5ghz
I was really surprised that the sonos speaker didn't have 5ghz in this day and age
Yeah I could get one but I'm just lazy lmao
Sonos over WiFi ew
Sonos doesn't even have proper stp
hmm?
RSTP by design is backward compatible
I might get two smaller speakers for surround later on but I'll be able to wire those in without the wire being in an obnoxious location
it still doesn't play nicely with it
But also, why is Sonos using STP?
Sonos builds a network of its own between the various sonos devices I believe, over 2.4ghz
so they can communicate even if they aren't on the same wifi network or whatever
Gotcha
Have a Sonos Connect AMP, and I love the quality of sound it generates with my own speakers, and now thinking of expanding system. I recently purchased it, and now Sonos AMP is out, so I feel a bit unhappy about that, and I would likely have waited a little to purchase new unit. But that is not my...
Some people just end up putting sonos on their main network instead lmao
Im guessing related to most IOT using mDNS or SSDP. TTL=1 means no worky
yup
guys my port forwarding is not working and I feel like I've tried everything, does someone wanna hop on a call with me and maybe try to figure it out?
did you try locally?
what happens when you type your router's public IP address and that port from inside your network?
as long as your router supports hairpin NAT for the port forwards (most do), you should be able to check it locally
it works as long as the router supports hairpin NAT.. I think with most home routers they do that by default.. for mikrotik or things like that you have to make an extra rule
@loud escarp what are the first two octets of your public IP? i.e. the first half
yes, check on the router itself, for what it is getting as a WAN IP
in case your ISP has started doing CG-NAT or something
CG-NAT is an especially attractive option to ISPs where most of their users have IPv6 as well
and it looks like you have IPv6
when most of our users have IPv6 we are going to consider moving to CG-NAT ourselves
once I get a new router I need to experiment with minecraft java ipv6
some people say it works
other's say it doesn't
but it's not officially supported
less costs right?
yes, would save us $25k a month
if I had proper v6 I wouldn't mind cgnat
best would be of course both
just so other people who don't have v6 can access
currently we pay a lot of money to rent IPv4 space from our partner in ontario, but they have stuff set up weird
just everyone move to v6 already
we have our own block of ipv4 from ARIN but it is only a /24 so not nearly enough for our customers unless we CG-NAT
our partner in ontario is still advertising the larger supernet and we advertise a more specific route, but we don't have a direct peering with them
instead they funnel our traffic through hurricane electric through Torix (the toronto internet exchange) so that it ends up getting to us, by accepting our more specific route that way
the issue is that if torix does maintenance, a bunch of services at torix can no longer reach us because we are cut off from our partner who is still advertising the supernets
so random traffic like akamai over Ipv4 will stop working until torix comes back up
it's really stupid
we asked them to cut holes in their advertisements so that they were no longer advertising the supernet, but they claimed (and I don't believe this personally) that some of their peers at torix would not accept advertisements smaller than a /19
it's like really? in this day and age can anybody get away with not being able to accept advertisements smaller than a /19? it is pretty much /24 everywhere I know of as the smallest possible size
so I mean I don't know for sure, but I don't buy it
also, they won't swip the blocks to us. We asked them to, but they said they would maybe in 3 or 4 years once they have their automated IP address management with automated SWIP functionality set up
I know nothing about all this, all this public internet routing is foreign to me
and the problem is that they are horribly unresponsive.. since they don't SWIP the blocks to us, they handle our reverse DNS.. we had a small customer set up a local on premesis exchange server and wanted us to change their PTR, which is a standard request for a customer doing such a thing to make of the ISP
the problem is that we can't change the PTR record, we have to ask our partner to do it
we followed up with our partner for like 10 months before they finally did it
our customer was furious at us but we couldn't do anything
if they just SWIP'ed the blocks to us and cut holes in their BGP advertisements for our /21's, everything would be just fine, and we would be operating like a normal provider
probably only a few people like @hollow marlin could understand how messed up our setup is

I suspect they are using underpowered equipment that cannot handle full tables or running too many VPN NLRIs in combination with not enough memory
This was common a decade ago where only the creme of the crop could handle full tables
you mean our partner's peers?
Yeah, which ever one was stating they couldn't accept less than a /19
they didn't really say which one wouldn't accept less than a /19
I'm not sure they even knew for sure
I think that was based on some peering policy thing from many years ago and they just never bothered to check to see if it had changed
@hollow marlin I think the bigger problem with our partner is that their Cisco BGP edge routers don't run IOS.. they run something else that is more service provider focused, but all of their other routers just run regular IOS so they aren't really comfortable managing them
I think they are afraid to make changes as a result
Most the internet backbone is Juniper as are we. If you do a trace route what host names do you get back? Sometimes they have the psudo standard naming convention which has the interface in the response
Oh I read that wrong, yeah it's XR
But Juniper is still most the backbone and edge
anyway those are their only two routers running XR so they are kindof afraid of them as a result
XR is more similar to Junos than it is to IOS XE/NXOS
idk my brother is a dingus and wont let me do anything on his pc can I try doing the same thing from my own pc
yeah they shared a snippet of the config with us
so to try what finrod said we need to get the WAN IP of the router
on the main router page look for something like WAN IP
or Public IP
maybe even PPPoE IP?
it looked quite different from IOS, IOS I am familiar with
How much did they share? I love critiquing others config
I'm not cisco certified but our network used to be entirely cisco routers running IOS, and I would ask our cisco guys "why is this config line in these routers but not in these? why does this one router have this extra config line? what does it do?" and they would be like "umm. I don't know why it is on the one and not the others, or what it does" so I started going through the docs and finding out what each command did and why it was there
they just shared their BGP peering config
"Why is this there and what does it do?"
"I don't know, it was in the whitepage"
- ex-employee
yeah like I thought it was really stupid to have all of our routers being almost the same but a few config lines different for no known reason and people were afraid to change it.. so I made an annotated config that explained what each line did with a comment
I learned IOS that way
If you know IOS, XR you can figure out but you need to look at it from a global perspective rather than a interface perspective.
it's a bit of a strange way to learn it, most people learn it by going through the certification track
but I didn't really feel the need to get cisco certified in general, I just wanted to get our configs more standardized
@hollow marlin nerd
@tender hazel time to audit your devices for compliance
it should be done by computer
I went down the CCNP R/S track which is IOS, then went down the JNCIP-SP track. Now I'm in some ASRs so it was an easy pickup from the combination of both. I'd say most pick it up from the SP track as it's not common place to learn as you go on
π©
you need some sort of system to scan your devices daily and look for config violations
like, you except "bgp log-neighbor-changes" to be on all routers, so why are 2 missing it
@hollow marlin lets see, whose gonna be up your ass
FDA, PCI
imagine having a college kid show up at your business and go "AUDIT TIME DITCHES!"
no IT experience
he asks to see network configs
Dont forget to have HIPAA in the mix
hes gonna ding you and ask WHY? WHY? WHY? if your configs arent standard
@hollow marlin one of my companies had mandatory how to handle an auditor training
"NEVER talk to them. NEVER confirm anything. Find a manager ASAP."
etc
xD
I have no clue how to do this
our mikrotik configs are a bit messy because we've made some changes over time, but at least I know what every line does in those, and whether something is supposed to be there or not supposed to be
so go into the router, on the main page look for WAN IP
what is the first half of it
don't share the entire thing because it would give your address
just the first half, the first two octets
wait let me go down stairs real quick to double check
downstairs? is it one of those routers that only allows admin page login from the wired network and not from wireless?
I am not sure Iβve never tried wireless but I had to log in
I just have a cable form my router to my pc
I thought I had it but I didnt, and I canβt find it either
Omg i thought you guys ment like actual router Iβm too sleep deprived mb
yes
the one connected to the ISP connection
oh wait
you have double-NAT?
how could I tell
you have 2 routers?
we have a optic fibre cable that goes to a router that is connected to my pc
whatever device you are trying to create the port forward on
like you are logging into something to create the port forward
you showed a screenshot of that device earlier
this?
no
earlier you showed a screenshot of some web interface where you created a port forward
yea
that's a private IP
what device is that??
internal
what device had the web interface that you shared the port forward screenshot earlier
my pc
your PC.. is doing a port forward to itself?
wait im confused rn
just go onto the router web interface
and look for WAN or public IP
earlier you were logged into something
you shared a screenshot showing the port forward configuration
yea
and that port forwarding configuration you get to how?
that's a screenshot of yours?
ok you just shared your public IP
yea
yep
well
not CGNAT
so on your pc load up minecraft and try to join using that public IP
yeah not CGNAT, that is what we were wondering
I can only join using my private
I think it's windows firewall
yeah it is probably windows firewall
I'm on linux rn so idk the exact steps
I allowed the port is there anything else I need to whitelist on there
try disabling your windows firewall and see if it starts working.. your router will act as a firewall so it shouldn't be a big deal
I'll completely turn it off for like a minute and see if it allowes to port forward
I have it turned off all the time at home personally because my router handles my firewall stuff, and the windows firewall just gets in the way
I live in the netherlands (which you may know by now lmao) and have kpn, does this also handle the firewall?
its my provider
its their newest one I think so it probably should right
so did you disable windows firewall?
the device that you are creating the port forwards on is handling the firewall for your network
so you can fairly safely disable windows firewall if it is a fixed PC at your home
I have a 500Mbs plan but my router only gives me 60Mbs on 2.4ghz any idea?
@buoyant sandal that's normal
you can't get much more than 60Mbps from 2.4GHz even in the best scenarios
if you have a dual band router and you are connected via 5GHz you might get anywhere from 200Mbps-500Mbps download, but you still might not get your full rate
@tender hazel thanks, but i remember on my old house i could get 90-100 mps.
@buoyant sandal it depends on how much interference there is from the area
my personal experience is that unless you are far away from any 2.4GHz interference sources you can only expect between 50-75Mbps maximum from 2.4GHz
if you are in an area of heavy interference you may only get 10-20Mbps
your old house may have had fewer 2.4GHz interference sources nearby and therefore you could get more
If you have 500Mbps internet service you will want dual band ac or ax wireless, otherwise you will never come close to really utilizing it
@buoyant sandal 90-100Mbps is what you can get out of 2.4GHz wireless only in the most ideal conditions
so your old house must have had very little 2.4GHz interference in the area
the issue is that wifi is about 60%-75% signaling overhead and only what is not used for signaling can be used for data transfer
2.4GHz is theoretically "300Mbps" wireless but with 60-75% used for overhead that means less than 100Mbps actual transfer rates
obviously a large variation in rate between 10Mbps (with a lot of interference) and 100Mbps (with basically clear channels)
but you largely can't do anything about 2.4GHz interference near you because other people are allowed to use wifi as well and are therefore allowed to interfere with your equipment which reduces your speeds
how do you reset a motorola ap 650?
fing reports it as connected to 192.168.1.33 but i can't get into the web UI
most i've seen is a 4 pin JP1 connector with a 1 on one side
@tender hazel even with 40Mhz channels? I know its gross
but you can be one of those guys
press the reset button with a needle for 5-10 seconds?
That shouldve been the standard.
ok then. where's that? since there is no reset switch visibly on it
like i said, all i can see is a header named JP1
hit me with a picture of the back of it
the back near the LAN cable?
that 4 pin header you have there ^ isnt something you use
that's for the manufacturer to flash the firmware onto the device
wouldn't flashing a new firmware also reset the whole thing?
indeed
6 Speed? /s
but i'm not sure if this manual will apply to it, since i'm not sure which version of wing is on it
all i know is that the orange LED blinks every second
or 2 idk
yeah once every 2 seconds
I can't find any instructions for resetting the device
same here
i cant connect to any network including ethernet on my pc, anyone know whats going on?
is this thing just cooked, like the one i tried yesterday?
hm wait
i think i need a Motorola wireless controller
which i don't have
well then
well, for people to help, we're probably gonna need more info than that
well i cant connect to any network connection on my pc ive tried reinstalling network drivers, resseting my wifi hub but nothings worked
its only my pc nothing else in my house
if it is that how do i fix it
this router lets me connect to it on other devices tho
do you mean network or internet? those 2 have entirely different meanings
in command prompt, type ipconfig /all
done, what am i looking for
sorry for bad quality cant screen shot because im using phone
the default gateway is ipv6 only though
Well do ipconfig on devices that don't work @still zephyr
oh wait i'm blind
its everything that doesnt work
Try, ping 1.1.1.1
If that doesn't work try, ping 192.168.0.1
should i delete all network drivers then restart pc?
But it's a windows issue
any idea how to fix it?
when i troubleshoot windows says that it could be to do with firewall but i doubt that
i tried a network reset but thar didn't do anything
i may have found the issue
what do you think it is
well i thought it was a certaint program but i was wrong
when i restart my pc it connects for like 10 seconds then disconnects
@late geyser
now its telling me the default gateway isnt available
no clue then
@still zephyr is it just this one machine that is having these issues?
@peak cloak its been multiple times now, that users have come in here with strange network behavior on windows
where it just stops working alltogether.
yes it is, my pc is the only device in my house that wont connect the other 2 windows devices in my house are working like normal
yep
unfortunately, there isnt an easy fix to this, or at least not one that I can think of
I don't know a lot about windows' network stack, all I know is that its total crap
and breaks randomly
@peak cloak did they restart their system?
because that would do the same
my problem with these windows "fixing" guides, is that none of them pinpoint the problem
they are just vague "lets see if this helps"-attempts
yeah ive found that with a lot of them
windows is shit, because it doesnt do error reporting in a sane way
'it just spits out an error code that is useless
@still zephyr did your system install updates recently ?
or something else that you did, because all of this suggests a driver issue
yeah last night
@still zephyr was that a feature update or something?
@peak cloak another case of windows broke itself ^
no i have a pending featyre update it was just a small one i believe
in case this means anything i get around 10 seconds of internet connectiv after a boot and then it diconnects
do you have any other network software installed on your system?
perhaps some kind of VPN service that is not properly configured
@still zephyr try to boot the system in safe mode with networking
i have a vpn and a network driver made by virtualbox
okay, well, those are all drivers
if they are faulty... could explain what we see
boot into safe mode with networking.
is safe mode f9 on boot?
this will load only the critical drivers
I am sure I don't know.. all I know is that if windows crashes often enough it boots into safe mode on its own
thanks
Did we already check that there isnβt a proxy server configured? Also, what does device manager say about the NIC? Is it set to auto configure the wire speed? What is the packet size?
ive never used a proxy server
Malware can configure it for you. No need for it to tell you. π
true i have recently got rid of some malware
should i enable safemode eith networking?
or just safe mode
With networking
One of the big clues you provided is that it works for the first 10 seconds after the computer is on. Which tells me a configuration or a program/service is started that is interfering with your connection.
@waxen saddle some driver being loaded by a runtime application
hopefully safemode will only load the windows IP stack
ok im in safe mode
@still zephyr do the same ping test again
...or something. Windows doesn't just load a driver, then reload a driver after boot. It only loads 1 driver at boot.
and another question I have is, did you run the winsock reset command yet?
dont u just love windows
Run CMD as an administrator, then netsh winsock reset
in safe mode?
Yup
@waxen saddle https://i.imgur.com/2KN99qM.png
lllolll
According to MS, we'll never get to a usable version. π
windows has some idiotic behavior, like when you plug in a thumbdrive with ext4 on it
first thing windows asks you: do you want to format?
still can't connect after running command
What does Device manager have to say about your NIC?
I don't see anything unusual
Can you uninstall the NIC, then re-install it?
Note: Worst case, you'll need to figure out what driver you need and download the driver on another device and move it to the broken computer via USB drive or something.
i have done this a few times today but ig ill try again
oh. I didn't know that. probably won't get you anywhere then.
its so weird ive tried so many things and none of its working
Let's look elsewhere...
Let's look elsewhere... run CMD as admin: sfc /scannow This will run "System File Checker". It will take a while to complete, but it should fix random core system files, if there are problems with them.
Be sure to reboot after running that.
ok thanks, ill come back when its done
Ya know, If Windows ever transitioned to BASH or ZSH or any of their derivatives, That would make it a lot more easier for a lot of people
windows needs to ditch windows
and start using the linux kernel
Im cool if microsoft makes their own Desktop environment
as long as they ditch their excuse for a kernel: NT
But the chance of that happening is pretty close to 0
@waxen saddle it finished and hasnt fixed, although it did find a corrupted file
Well, not all was wasted then.
yeah
im getting worried im not gonna be able to fix this which is worrying because i don't wanna losr everything i have on my pc
Do you have a way of backing up your files and re-installing Windows?
when re installing windows doesnt it give you a choice to keep files?
i cant really remember
uhhh... I don't recall that, and honestly, I wouldn't rely on that either.
well i don't have a way to back them up
Are they items that could be synced with dropbox? or Google drive?
wait. bad idea.
Do you have any kind of usb wired/wireless dongle you could try?
wdym
@waxen saddle soon:
I hope not
windows xp β€οΈ
Yea, no. I saw that news today and thought, βMicrosoft's EEE program is still alive and well.β
exceptionally well
@still zephyr In elevated CMD, try: netsh int ipv4 reset
Last I checked ME was bad 2000 was what XP was built off of....
fine
yeah NT was pretty slow
its still using the same kernel today
heavily modified ofc
Microsoft really has to start cutting their losses.
and reinvent the desktop with linux
sadly it didnt work, but i have found that windows seems yo think its a problem with a security setting or firewall
instead of a subsystem for linux, they need to make a windows 32 subsystem for linux
and then build their own Desktop environment
I remember my Athlon 1333 chugging away whenever I started it up, 2000 takes it's sweet time like 95 does.
No more driver BS on windows. kernel takes care of it.
and they can keep their UI the same on linux.
i could maybe try allowing some stuff through firewall
@still zephyr I doubt firewall has anything to do with this
@still zephyr you're still dealing with the same issue you were on this morning?
yeah
at this point, I would just back up all my files and reinstall windows completely.
windows is notoriously terrible to debug and fix problems on
fresh install is usually the fix-all
idk how to go about backing everything up like will game saves and stuff also be backdd up
@still zephyr savegames are usually located in your home folder somewhere
you just copy your entire user directory to another drive
I usually don't even bother with that. I take a full a image from the drive and then format it :P
wait will my d drive be fine bc my windwos is on c
I can pull files I want from the backup image on the fresh install
@still zephyr C would be wiped completely
your files are located in C:\Users
application settings are more difficult to keep. those are also stored in the user directory, a hidden directory called AppData
so if i just move the important stuff like program files and tge users folder i can wipe c drive and keep it all on the d drive
program files isnt important
you reinstall all your software
@still zephyr really helps if you have an external drive
lot safer to copy your files to an external device
rather than risking you accidentally formatting the entire device during reinstall
i have a second drive that windows isnt installed on
that's fair. you can just copy all your files you wish to keep to that thing
make sure you disconnect it from the motherboard when you go to install windows .
windows shouldnt have the 2nd drive available during install.
right ok
after installation, you can reconnect your 2nd drive
and it should appear again
then you can copy back whatever you want
and reinstall all your software
say i have steam games on d drive and i have steam on c, when i reinstall windows and get steam on c drive again will it recognise the d drive games
possibly.
you can have multiple locations for steam libraries
pretty sure you can just add the library to steam again after installation
ok that's handy
@still zephyr your personal files are most important
programs and such, you can always download again
yeah true
ive never had to this before so its kinda stress thats why im trying so many ways to avoid a re install
I stopped bothering with windows' bullshit
I use linux on my daily driver laptop
and my desktop, last time I did a fresh install was... yeah last year
when feature update completely broke my install
windows is so unstable, you have but to utter a few rude words and it crashes
i would use linux but it isnt practucle for what i do but i do love using it kn vms
a feature update made my old laptop forget it had a hardrive lmao
my laptop is still running ubuntu 16
5 years since installation, still running strong
hasn't crashed a single time in all those years
if i had a laptop rn id definitely use linux on it
I need router recommendations
then you are in the right place
For around 65 usd
what kind of requirements do you have?
I would prefer WiFi 6 and it needs to have at least two Lan ports but Iβm not that caught up on routers so π€·ββοΈπ€·ββοΈ
My price cap is 85
uhh
router.
you're talking about a wireless access point now
@cosmic cove https://mikrotik.com/product/hap_ac2
I'm a big fan of mikrotik personally. Cheap, reliable, lots of features
only downside to them, they don't offer wifi 6 yet
@cosmic cove I use this as wireless in the living room
Aight thanks
Most of the recommended you find online are really gamery and overpriced
@cosmic cove the issue is that marketing for consumer routers is completely messed up
mikrotik doesnt really do advertising
they are used by ISPs and small time installation on customer premises
All their equipment looks very enterprise ππ
that's cus it is
@cosmic cove that hAP ac2 can do the same things their 3000 buck router can do
just a bit slower, ofcourse
they all run the same OS
Cool
@cosmic cove if in the future, you want better coverage in your home. You can always buy a 2nd access point
those mikrotiks can have a wireless controller
Yea this isnβt for me
control many access points.
Itβs for a friend that lives in an apartment complex
@cosmic cove if you just buy it and plug it in
it is configured as a standard home wifi router
as default.
Minor
you have to configure the WAN interface, and change the password on the router
that's it.
perhaps change wireless pass
Well thatβs pretty standard for an installation anyway
@cosmic cove their settings system have a "Quickset" feature.
which only shows the things a home wifi router would do
looks like that ^
@cosmic cove perhaps might just be easier on your part to buy a consumer wifi router and call it a day
if it was for your own network, and you are interested in setting up your home lab/network
Mikrotik is a good tool to help you learn
they are much easier to configure than other enterprise devices are
Im pretty tech savvy and so is my friend
well then might as well give it a try? :D
the fact that you can add more wireless APs to your liking, makes it very attractive for futureproofing
I just havenβt dived into networking
that hAP ac2 can route a total traffic of around 2gbit/s
which is pretty sweet for such a small router
most consumer routers don't even get up to their rated port speed of 1G
I know
like those ripoff TP-link routers with 2.5G ports on them
Itβs crazy
they cap out around 1700mbit
Can someone help me with a IoT issue? I have a phillips hue bulb / bridge, and I have it working on my phone. The bridge can't update nor can it see the internet even though other devices on the IoT network are able to see the internet. I also can't get it to discover / be added through apple homekit
autodiscover fails but I can add the IP directly in the hue app
@honest wind can you give us some more information on the layout of the network?
what address do you use on your hue
what what the router address is on
idk anything about phillips hue
IDIoT network -> 192.168.15.0/29
Main network / wifi -> 192.168.5.0/24
SharedLan -> 192.168.2.0/24
Pihole / DNS -> 192.168.2.208
iPhone -> 192.168.5.84
Hue bridge -> 192.168.15.2
Raspberry pi -> 192.168.15.3 (Used for testing internet access from iot network)
Other networks -> doesn't matter
All outgoing dns is blocked unless pihole through dns over https
I allowed IDIoT network to access dns in case hue had a hardcoded dns address
Iot can't talk to other networks and vice versa unless there's an exception (e.g. pihole and my iphone)
The phone can pair with the hue bridge and change lights just fine but the hue bridge can't see the internet or update. I also can't add the hue bridge to homekit
The raspberry pi has internet / dns access everything on there works as intended
Do you have mDNS forwarding/proxy
no, right now for the iot network all dns is allowed anyway
oh multicast dns
yes tried enabling that
also tried rebooting
and repairing the bridge
I don't know if multicast works between the 2 networks though
That's the purpose of a mDNS proxy
Settings -> Services -> mDNS
on classic settings
New UI: Settings -> Advanced Features -> Advanced Gateway Settings -> Multicast DNS
Yeah
No
QuickSet is fine if You dont touch anything else, otherwise sometimes it can bork up previous/future configurations
Usually when that happens for me, I just have to unplug the Hue bridge power
yeah I was thinking I had bad FW rules for the longest time
but I put an rpi on the same network
@gritty valley yeah its for the initial setup, thats it
and it works as intended
So its been happening to you as well? lol
I still prefer to dig trought the wiki and do the configs on my own.
idk for me its weird lol
The Hue bridge doesn't connect to Internet after unplugging Ethernet or over time
And the only fix is to unplug the power
I may have to factory reset it then
or... just not update it and disable internet on purpose for that network π
lol
@tame carbon this says i might be able to keep files?
I'd uhh backup your files anyway to an external hard drive if you can
generally yes but if you click wrong or if something goes wrong on the OS side you can lose your files
ok thanks for the clarity
im just backing up the users folder is that the most important?
wherever your files are
I don't do a ton of windows stuff so i'm not sure
but I think there are some external locations like appdata you'd care about
oh shit yeah that had a lot of saves in thanks
yep. There may be other locations on windows stuff is saved so look / ask around here.
i think a lot of my game saves are on my secondary drive so that should be fine
I hope so. if windows sees those as windows files, same thing as with any other file though
maybe just unplug that hdd while you restore?
idk how that'd affect windows though
yeah i probably will do that
@still zephyr yeah remove that before, as I told you
you need a usb stick
and windows 10 install media on it
dont use that internal restart thing
just boot from usb
and install that way
that way you really get a clean installation
yeah make sure you've got all your files then iriamu
insert a segway to LTT sponsor - Synology and their NAS enclosures π
Im sorry, I had to
But reasons like these are why I really like all the data to be stored off-drive and on a NAS
If You need to nuke Windows - dont have to worry about data migration and/or loss
I just assembled a small ryzen system on a mini itx board
it has 10G fiber optic
and bunch of storage
those all in one units are meh
I can configure the software myself
Yeah, currently looking at an reeealllyy old decom server to turn into a nas for giggles
I'm using a 2010 mac pro that I got for free ^
For basic people who just want RAID1 storage - the 2 bay are fine
put ubuntu on it
debian
FreeBSD
get out of here
Tempting to just tell my teacher I'm managing shit for to just buy this https://www.amazon.com/Synology-Bay-Rackstation-RS819-Diskless/dp/B07QRCG5GC/
I can get behind debian
its only $600
and super easy to configure so he doesn't have to rely on me to manage storage
ew 1G
Β―_(γ)_/Β―
yeah its doing it rn taking a while tho
The switch on the other end is only gigabit
There's no purpose in going 10 gig when its only a gigabit access switch
sounds like you have a bit of a bottleneck
bottleneck would still be the outgoing port on the switch, no?
you can serve multiple clients on the same switch though
That is - if switch can handle the traffic and doesnt crumble when multi-users hit it with load
plus, gigabit is fine tbh for infrequent access
if all they do is put documents on them
its a 3 switch stack
with 24 gbps stacking
and 40 gig back to the core lol
Oh sure, Im just talking theoreticals π
I got a whole 0.19mbps down at my works' office yesterday π
gigabit would sure be nice
yasss finally someone who recommends WD. Every seagate drive i've had fails
So around ~1.3k for 24TB of RAW storage
But - after the shingle shaninigans they did before - can WD be trusted?
We'd have 18TB usable
trust no one
with SHR
they only do that on their budget lineup
so with that logic
would you not trust Seagate
with the 1.5TB & 3TB drive failures
you're just using it the wrong way
The ST3000DM001 is a hard disk drive released by Seagate Technology in 2011 as part of the Seagate Barracuda series. It has a capacity of 3 terabytes (TB) and a spindle speed of 7200 rpm. This particular drive model was reported to have unusually high failure rates, approximately 5.7 times higher fail rates in comparison to other 3 TB drives.
drivegate
I've had a seagate nas go boom before
like, drives just failing
another where the OS completely broke itself
since then I swore off those all in one units
companies can only be good at 1 thing
if you make harddrives, you suck at writing your own operating system
equally slow
I have a btrfs raid1 running here
jbod anyone?
@clear igloo I hope this place has at least a 5U rack lol
I had one of those a long time ago
for couchpotato
who cares if couple movies go missing
you can just download em again
UDM-Pro, USW-24-POE, PDU, UPS, patch panel...5 needed lol
valhalla of illegal netflix
does it download via vpn?
no
I'd hate for an ISP to snoop on that sorta traffic
its just a fancy torrent client
I see
i'm ok with just doing that myself
I set one of these up a long time ago in a student home
if I did that sort of thing anyway
they had raspberry pi's in every room
and a central server with like a pile of 20 or so old laptop drives
Why?
to stream
Ah, You put them
couchpotato is a server application
it runs in background and automatically downloads new releases
yeah, at first thought there were already rb pi in every room
no
we put one behind each tv
with KODI on it
back then it was called XBMC
just hook that up to the couchpotato nas
and you're good to go
if I set something up i'd use plex probably
yeah this was long time ago