#networking
1 messages · Page 88 of 1
their server might use a 300Mbps connection
Or they are limiting each connection to that speed
Hence more connections giving a higher speed overall
Already tried Bufferbloat to no avail either
Pretty sure most browsers download with a single connection hence download managers like JDownloader being a thing
What's wrong with just sticking with JDownloader to handle everything?
Mega downloads stop and start for no reason even with “premium” links via alldebrid
Browser seems to be fine. Nothing in the mail from my ISP
does mega like "pre download" stuff?
Mega up? or Mega NZ?
@honest merlin Have you checked JDownloaders forums for the issue and possible fix?
seems to be fixed. maybe i should try it again https://board.jdownloader.org/showthread.php?t=95590
Bufferbloat isn't a factor here
Not really anymore afaik
my ping during gaming is still like 28-32 ms. trying to lower it
Sounds reasonable
Don't know if you can realistically lower it
And yeah bufferbloat again isn't really an issue for consumers
i dont know what you mean, but i did ask
tldr; just state the problem you’re having, don’t blanketly ask for “help”
what do i put in prefix field?
We need more context
that is the problem. i need help to get it to work. my prof is not being too helpful right now.
It's ipv6 lan settings
Usually your lan ipv6 prefix is based on what your ISP assigns
Unlike nowadays with ipv4, where you only get one (or even zero) public IPs, with v6 you are supposed to get a /56, but some ISPs only give a /64
You aren't supposed to use NAT, although 1:1 nat does have it's uses
i swear everything you “aren’t supposed to do” in networking has an exception
the thing is
ipv6 internet works on my pc and my phone did get assigned the IPv6 address
but my phone can't get internet ipv6 access
shouldnt virtualisation and servers be swapped?
no, virtualization gets blamed for problems more than bare metal
true
anyway, network team, please check this
we are experiecing deacent delay in PI orders
Is it android
yea
Try reconnecting a few times. Check test-ipv6.com to test. If it still doesn't work then maybe your router isn't doing SLAAC advertisements properly
this makes it sound like its doing DHCPv6 to hand out "LAN ips" in ipv4 style which android doesn't support and you shoudlnt do anyways
what's the options for prefix mode
network connection and static
Hi everyone, I had previously 600/15Mbps internet connection by coaxial, and got it replaced to fiber today. The ISP modem now is symmetric at 600/600, however the TP Link Deco router connected to it is still giving me 600/15. The router is a Deco X60 Mesh WiFi.
I did notice that coaxial gateway was 192.168.0.1 and now fiber gateway is 192.168.50.1, does that make a difference?
For reference, this is the Deco app showing me full speed on the wired connection to the mesh router
are you connected via wifi?
help me pleassss
its not working
pls halp
I ended up resetting the entire network and using the same SSID/password as the old network and everything went great. I guess it was a router issue
i’m gonna virtually slap you
what dns settings does everyone use? 1.1.1.1 for example
Cloudflare (1.1.1.1), Quad9 (9.9.9.9), and Google (8.8.8.8)
my pihole
I'm using DoH with cloudflare
...Any chance the cable connection is still inserted and you're using a different internet connection unknowingly?
FWIW, using CAT6 cable on all connections
As the speed test established, it's nothing on your end
don't you love it when you buy a server from a company who's selling their old one and they forgot the static IP for IPMI but VGA doesn't work on the server for whatever reason 😃
apparently it boots to bios, it does POST afaik because the num lock light is on but i cannot get a VGA out, with a known good VGA cable and monitor that works for all of my other servers
It's going to be more and more common
As connection speeds increase but there will still be other bottlenecks like peering and servers
One of the ISPs here offer 8gig. But what service would actually have 8gig downloads
Only really torrent or other similar protocols
Yep above 2.5g there is only multi user benafit
Hello! Anyone here willing to help me out i'm really not trying to call a xfinity technician out here to my house but my Coax cables are not working on any outlet in my home
speedtest go brrr 😄
Please call your isp
Did you find a wall wart plugged in somewhere with a coax cable hooked up to it and unplug it? Most homes have what's called a signal booster that's need for a clean signal to all the rooms and if it is not powered, no signal. (don't just randomly feed power in somewhere tho)
Also as a heads up - wiring in the house is yours and not your cable companies so it will cost to repair.
Also - also - modems should usually be installed on a bypass or modem port.
I called my ISP and they got someone coming out tomorrow
In our HPE ProLiant MicroServer Gen11 review, we see how the newest server in this popular series is built, and what it can do.
STH Main Site Article: https://www.servethehome.com/hpe-proliant-microserver-gen11-review-intel-xeon-broadcom/
Substack: https://axautikgroupllc.substack.com/
STH Top 5 Weekly Newsletter: https://eepurl.com/dryM09
--...
LOL HP
four 1GbE Broadcom NIC ports.
i cannot figure this out at all, i've removed all the ram, i get 5 beeps, very normal, i put the ram back in, i get 2 beeps... THE MANUAL SAYS NOTHING ABOUT 2 BEEPS... so i assume 1 for post and 1 because it recognised my keyboard, sure thing, i spam delete and then the fans ramp up to 100%, sounds like i'm in the bios only i don't know because because IPMI is in a random subnet that i don't know about, VGA isn't working for whatever reason. so i clear CMOS and now the SAS light is red which is weird because i'm not using SAS but sure, we should normalise sellers of servers putting the IPMI IP address (if its static or even if not) on the mf box with a sticker or something because i stfg if i had IPMI i'd be setup good to go rn
any suggestions are vvvv much welcome, also i don't have a 90° riser for 16x so i can't try a graphics card but it's running dual E5-2670 so i think it can do on board vga, if not then i'm the rest sure that BMC handles it, if not then maybe that's the issue but i'm sure i'd have figured that out by now maybe
oh, my monitor recognises there is some kind of output but it does not display anything, it works on my other servers; when its in what i presume is the bios, the screen is on, when it's turned off the screen is off etc
ctrl + alt + del restarts it too
what model is it?
supermicro x9drw-7tpf
with dual E5-2670, 128gb of sk hynix ddr3 something or rather
all the sticks are known good, tested individually in my other server
it's so weird, if i hit ctrl alt delete the screen goes off and refreshes
imma try a mouse, see if i can see a cursor, probs not but worth a shot
didn't work
https://www.supermicro.com/manuals/motherboard/C606_602/MNL-1401.pdf
this is the manual i think
annoyingly it's in a supermicro 119-7 chassis and i do not feel like taking it out and electrocuting myself
so i can't currently fit a GPU in it
are the ram sticks branded to some other manufactuer (hpe, dell, etc)
from what i recall, it just says SK Hynix on the stick
and i tested them in another supermicro server
but if i can trust the seller's claim that it POSTed and booted to bios then everything should be all good, it's so weird
i was thinking that, i want to reseat the CPUs but i do not think i have any thermal paste and i don't know the state of what i'll find under there
have you tried removing cpus and reinstalling them?
you can also leave cpu2 unocupied and try to boot then
i would but again, no thermal paste so i can't re-install it
lemme check if i have some, i may
its fine, i found some
i'll do that rn, well in a few mins it's probs very hot rn haha
nevermind, surprisingly cool, then again the fans were at 100%
i would reccomend using oculink to get pcie out of the chasis and then mounting gpu outside the chasis
well i was only going to use this server as a kind of head server for training AI models so i was thinking about something like that, not LLMs or anything, with only ~80 PCIe gen3 lanes i can't do too many interesting things but for my use it'll work
should i take out the ram for cpu2
i believe it doesent matter but for now we are eliminiting all non critical components
need to get myself one of those LTT screwdrivers haha, trying to remove a CPU cooler with a multi tool is painful
removed CPU2, same issue so far
beeped twice in rapid succession but the manual doesn't state that's a beep code
how long do you leave it for after it beeps?
45 seconds
servers take loooong time to boot
yeah ik
it beeps once it first "boots" aka starts initialising then around 45 seconds later it beeps twice
numlock works on the keyboard now
still no display out?
nope, none
do you have os on a drive somewhere
already cleared CMOS like 3 times, replaced the CMOS battery, just got another beep
followed by 2 more?
it beeped again and now the fans are 100%
also i meant to say yes, prox mox on a drive that's in it rn
now the VGA is flicking on / off every few seconds as if it's trying to display something but failing or sumn
leave it for like 5 minutes
aight
servers just take absurd amount of time to boot
first ipmi init, ram init, then bios, then bios from sas controller and lots more
haha yeah, i don't have a UPS yet, when my power went out a few days ago, my 3 servers i currently have took like 20 minutes to turn back on fully and start working again, btw i don't run any storage systems, just compute so it's fine for the most part not ideal but it works
haha, i have an SG200-26P, got it for like £25 and i needed PoE so can't complain but setting it up was a nightmare
today i did a ISSU update on a 2 member stack of c9500 48y4c and i believe each member went down for 265 seconds
still no display btw
yea those are not running real IOS or ios-xe
they are running some wierd linksys developed software with half the features
man i just took the lid back off and it was like stepping into a mf wind tunnel haha
it probably has chasis intrusion detection
it does but it doesn't seem to work very well since with the lid on its still at full speed
usually if its not booted it will run it at 100%
it seems to run at like 50% then if i spam delete to enter what would be the BIOS it then goes to 100%
should i turn it off or wait
hmm
i might try recovery mode tomorrow and see if maybe i can flash the BIOS or something, or just get a refund and cut my losses
or capitalise on the fact that DDR3 memory is so insanely expensive and nobody can find it and then sell them both separately
wait... i found a super micro jumper plug thing in the box the server came in
did i get given an extra one, did it fall out during shipping because it was literally just in the box with some styrofoam on the front and back
could've fallen out of the PCIe holes, the vent holes
it's not a spare one of mine because they're in a box and i've not had any other SM servers open with missing jumpers near the box, literally in a diff room... this is concerning but also maybe there's some hope
now i just need to find the missing jumper
also booting it with a missing jumper might've fried it but also that's not on me so like i can still get a refund if that's the case
Wut
i guess you tried the default IPMI IP of 192.168.1.99 ?
yes but that's on a diff subnet
tried direct attaching for a min but that didnt do much
direct attach, and did you set static IP on the computer you connected to the IPMI port ?
yes, the same way i'd connect to a new switch, it didn't work
Anyone else had problems with WOL on gigabyte motherboards?
update: i'm returning it to sender, they offered a full refund
Guys does any of yall know how hard is it to replace an rj 11 wall jack to an rj45 port??
HELP I AM LOST
first step is buying one
I have one
how many wires are in the wall, take a photo
I dont know 10i
Need more info then that
Just changing the plug won't make it Ethernet
I know the walls are wired with cat 5e cables
Do you know where they terminate?
i have some qualms about my internet and was wondering if anyone could help me with that
basically, my wifi modem is downstairs in the basement (i think it’s bad bc it kinda sucks that its underground), and my room is on the second floor
the speeds right next to the modem are like 10-20x faster than it is up to my room, and i’m not sure what the best option for me is
Ok Team. I have a question for yall. I am wanting to upgrade to a better router. I have a ROG GT6 mesh. I am thinking of doing the Ubiquiti Cloud Gateway Fiber or the Ubiquity Dream Machine Special Edition. unless there is a better router to use. I plan to turn the GT6 into an access point.
Thank yall for the help!!
Ethernet
If you have coax in the walls, you can try moca
Worst case some sort of wifi mesh
i have ethernet ports throughout the house, i j have no idea if they’re any good
do i need a good like wifi 6 ethernet cable on both ends?
Test them
cat8 is for 40G copper ethernet, which practically doesn't even exist. It is ofc backwards compatible, but save your money next time
Way overkill
It will work, but it's basically a scam for consumer
i had it at college bc their network supports it, and i think i had 1000 mbps download and upload speed
All Ethernet has 8 actual wires in the cable. It's just a matter of how tight the twist is and the shielding
No
Wut? I guarantee you cat5e would have also got you gig speeds
Cat 5e 99.99% would have done it
Most of the stuff I have seen is fake
Cat5e can even do 10gig overshort distances, even though it's not officially supported
Yeah it's probably fake and doesn't even conform to spec
their network most certainly doesn't support 40G. afaik it was only a thing in the lab, nobody bothered making a commercial product because fiber exists and is cheaper
Cat 8 is wonky
Look at cat7
ik it works as an ethernet cable at least lol
That's a funky spec, doesn't even use 8p8c connectors
might not be cat8 but it’s something
Yea, they made cat7a later to reintroduce 8p8c. With cat8 they decided to support both with class I for 8p8c and class II for TERA like cat 7
So I'm just buying fiber stuff now since it's way way cheaper then rj45 anything.
Well for 10gig
It's getting cheaper now
It's not getting colder
But still, you can get used sfp+ gear for cheap
Fun fact you can do full 10gig from home lab to pc under 120$
There's one problem
Nop
Running fiber in the walls
And not talking about straight connection
?
Fyi fiber can take a beating
No it's that copper cabling is already in, and there's no way to run fiber without cutting drywall
That's the reality for a lot of people
Rip
No wait that was something different
Also
The fiber cable took some abuse
Practically, it's much easier to run and terminate copper
There are
Very nice
nvm i figured it out, and not all ethernet ports are usable in the house
3d printer definitely clutch for that kind of thing, sure can get 100 off the shelf for $5 but never exactly the right size or ultra cheap injection molded garbage that breaks when you look at it wrong. Plus don't need to keep track of box of random junk just print extras as needed
my eyes
Yuh
Well I still keep the things I can print as even tho pla is made of corn and such it does still need industrial stuff to breakdown, but since it's a thermoplastic it means it can be remelted so I still keep a box of all my pla
you could have hid it under the skirting board
that is how i ran a lot of ethernet
Apartment
But perhaps
Main issue is just the door needs to stay open so I do not you know crush the fiber cable
remove the door from the hinges
Well then i would have no sound isolation from my server at all
My space is tiny tiny
Only got 3 doors
Bathroom ofc, outside, and then the walk in or whatever it's called in english and its where my server is
Sure, taking off all the boards, notching out the back and reinstalling them, in a place you don't own...
well, painting the wall when the dual sided tape takes the paint with it is going to be fun too
The paint is already fucked
Looks like they're just wedged into the skirting board
mine are
Hey, I had a quick question about using Ethernet over electrical wiring. I cant run a ethernet cable to my room. does anyone have a good budget friendly option?
(i live in belgium and budget is 80 euros max if possible)
I was thinking about using the "TP-Link TL-WPA7617 Kit 1000Mbps Duo Pack" (70 euros in belgium) but i have no idea if anything else would be better
Never really heard anyone loving power line
i do not think i have another option for my room sadly
unless there is one i am unaware about
Could do mesh
ideally buy as fast standard as possible. Remember that it is like wifi, that is the bandwidth is shared between all powerline devices.
I did not consider it because of the price really
can you give a rough estimate on how much 200Mbps would affect it?
i am able to buy a 1200Mbps but it is nearly double the price (120) i rather not pay as much but if it would show a good difference i might consider it
in general it will be bad, but can be semi-OK depending on how much interference is there.
https://micoolpaul.com/2023/07/10/how-to-actually-increase-powerline-adapter-throughput/
A 1000Mbps powerline adapter should be able to do 200Mbps according to the second link i posted
But if you are unlucky, it can be very bad:
https://www.servethehome.com/over-a-decade-later-powerline-av-networking-still-sucks-tp-link-netgear/
Just hope someone is not turning on the dryer in the middle of a comp game
i got cat 6 in my walls
dryers are not that common in Europe
I bought a ubiquity AP for my garage, but the ceiling in my garage is like 4 meters high… I can’t be arsed nor have a ladder tall enough to reach the ceiling.
Can I just wall mount the thing?
ask neighbor
I did
ask more
Southern Europe maybe
In the Netherlands almost everyone has a dryer
i do not have one in Norawy 😦
Slovakia, nobody has dryers. In winter you got radiators to dry clothers, in other seasons you just dry them on lines
Not being rude, but slovakia was communist for a while maybe that has something to do with it?
If the powerline signals have to go between two different circuits/breakers the bandwidth is usually very low
literally has zero relevancy. You can dry clothes outside for majority of europe for like 8 months in a year. It makes no economical sense. Same as with let's say AC. We got few weeks of 30C+ days, it makes no sense to buy an AC for that.
Idk Ive never met anyone here who doesn’t own a dryer… oh well
Heylo!!! I am brand new to networking and would love yalls help. I am trying to set up a DIY NAS for my friend and would love to go as budget friendly as possible but am unsure of how I should go about it. I was thinking of being really jank with it though and repurposing an old ACER laptop to act as a NAS for the short term as both a temporary solution for them as well as a personal project that would look good and that I could talk about.
built in UPS
I didn't really even think of that! The laptop battery would offer a little bit of protection in those scenarios huh!
just make sure to set it to the right mode, if not the batter would be 100% all the time and that is big bad
What do you mean?
OH like make sure it only charges up to 80% to protect the battery I see. Didnt even know this was a thing tbh
Thanks for the tip :D
And I know it would be a bit out of the way but for learning purposes I want to use a Linux OS. I found some sites suggesting Open Media Vault and wanted to talk with a real person before making a commitment.
if its a temp solution you might be better off using windows and if possible run a VM from it to learn there
if you get to the point of going more permanent it would be worth switching
they are avalibile, it is just a matter of having need, space and money for one
i belive space factor is the big one for everyone living in an apartment
open media vault is fine for low power devices, if device has enough resources for truenas then run that
TrueNAS heard!
nas
unless you use older hardware, where TrueNAS gives you zero fan control, which might be an issue depending on board (many pre-2015 boards won't do less than 60% fan speed on anything than CPU fan)
get rekt
https://youtu.be/3JKKKDtub8k
i just found this shit
Fiber to the room construction guide
they have made fiber into hotglue
50m costs like 10 euros
das single
yea for pon or bidi
yea it sucks that most outdoor drop cables are single strand but ISP orders em in volume so thats why they are cheap compared to multi strand ones
on corners it isnt so invisible 
im still not sure if my door can do that tho
Does anyone know much about Ubiquiti home use setup? I am wondering if it’s better to use ubiquiti or get a gaming router. It looks like the ubiquiti would be a better choice.
well yea
What would you recommend. For a setup. I was thinking the cloud fiber because of the processing power. Also thought about the special edition but the fiber looks to beat it out on paper. The. Which WiFi access to get. T thought about just getting the fiber and use my current router as an access point. But don’t know if that will interfere with the router.
well
but i suspect your talking about the pod
this i rec if you need some new good wifi
ofc this thing with some top mounted high end AP from ubiquiti could be better
No, I like the fiber due to the hardware. It is so much better than the pod.
I need WiFi but my current WiFi will work. I just want a better gateway router. I game and have streams going as well as the kids. Doing their thing. My current can’t handle the load.
I have an Asus GT6 mesh and an old netgear 750 mesh. The asus is ok but when I game and have a heavy traffic load it can’t handle it.
are you sure router is the limiting factor and not ISP
My ISP is offering the Eero pro but I want full control on the router.
No not fully I know the ISP has issues too but since changing routers I have had nothing but trouble.
Currently working the local ISP network manager to have someone trace the lines from my house to the node. I saw that ubiquiti will monitor the isp signal as well. Does that work well?
Also gives me a reason to get a bad ass network system.
Which WiFi access point would be good to pair with this?
the best one you can afford
i.e. u7 pro
yes
fyi ucg fiber maxes out at 10gbps switching speed
its too good of a product otherwise
They made a 2.5 gig version? Neat.
If Mikrotik doesn't come out with a decent 2.5 gig option I may actually consider (gasp!) switching vendors, as rumor has it NBN's upping the gigabit plans to 2 gigabit from September and while I 100% don't need those speeds, well, I'm not paying the bill, my job does ;)... and I'm not one to turn my nose up at more potential speed
The Mikrotik hEX I'm using doesn't quite manage gigabit but I've tuned it pretty close, about 900mbps before the CPU chokes with a condensed firewall ruleset
WiFi's handled by a WiFi 5 4x4 Telstra router I've repurposed as an AP
It does 400mbps at 2x2 and that's OK for my phone and stuff but I want WPA3 and virtual APs for IoT rather than one L2 and firewall-only restrictions
hex s refresh? Rb5009?
Hex S refresh isn't really worth the upgrade - a bit more perf but not enough to do straight gigabit without crutches either
I'd take it over the old Hex if I was buying new and wanted that, but not a sensible upgrade
It does technically have 2.5 gigabit on SFP but it's on a stick and for the above reasons not practical
RB5009 has one 2.5 gig ethernet port (I'd want at least three but two's OK I guess) and I want management so I'd be paying the price for that plus for a managed switch
For reference, a Mikrotik hEX doing NAT without fasttrack does about 200mbps or so, so a 20,30% perf uplift for the same price is nice but not exactly a gamechanger
It'd do actual gigabit on fasttrack rather than 900mbps-ish I guess, but that's not really worth replacing for
Ccr2116 or 2004 then 😂
talking about 2.5G, i hate that my 1 gig internet is only 912-930mbps even through 2.5gbps ethernet, but oh well, it is what it is
Sewage tank.
why does it matter
that sounds like standard overhead
Yeah I question if it's worth that to me 🤣
They would solve the issue, no argument there
that is why i said "it is what it is". At 41.8 euros a month including cable TV (with 4 euro optional package) i can't complain
Interesting. That's a tiny bit lower than I'd expect with overhead.
Not massively, you're missing out on what, 10-30mbps?
might be speedtest server related as well, who knows
Mostly a rounding error, let's be real
Same reason I'm only mildly annoyed by hitting 900mbps or so - you're not getting 1000mbps of real traffic through the interface anyways, I'm missing out on maybe 3% of what I'm paying for
well interface would not be limiting - as i said, the router -> switch -> PC is all 2.5 gigabit
Are you perhaps connecting over PPPoE?
PPPoE needs to die
Switching yes but what about routing and or firewalling
What about it
once you start adding complex rules, the hardware accelerated stuff can't handle it and some/lot of packet handling gets delegated to CPU, which then can be very weak
Yeah I’m aware
Just confused as to what it had to do with what I said
i suspect @opal pagoda just doesn't like hardware which does well only under ideal scenarios
lol
to be fair, i disliked this about my ER-X too. Sure, it was a cheap device, but only way to use it was with HW acceleration
They have to hit their price point somehow ig
for sub-$100 device, sure. Once you start going to 250+ euro devices, i have hard time justifying a quadcore ARM CPU when 120 euro miniPCs come with N100 or N150, 8GB RAM and 250GB storage...
Well you also have to consider unifi network etc as part of the product
The license free thing is nice though it definitely feels like a work in progress kind of thing lol
yep, and then people think they can use such device for usecases that they arent intended for
example: https://youtu.be/fcjsI33AleM
In this video I used a Geekcom Mini PC to stop my network from overloading saving the very loved very epic play hosting!
GET YOUR OWN GEEKOM IT12 2025 Edition HERE:
Get 6% off with code: IT12TPT6
US Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4D5MYWH?maas=maas_adg_EE2150A39088BF71EFA44AD4B0B418EB_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
UK Amazon: https://www....
that was the exact video i was thinking about, i seen it
there are loads more but this is just the one i recently watched
i hate this on big brand NAS too, $500 NAS comes with dual or quadcore 1.5GHz ARM CPU with 512MB RAM... At $1k, you get a decade old J series Atom CPU and 1-2GB RAM. At $2k, you might get a 6-7 year old Ryzen embedded CPU with 4-8GB RAM. So stupid
yep
500$ without any drives
and now to get all features you need their own rebrand of the WDC/Seagate drives too
soho nas always sucked
how is DS223j 230 euros is something i don't understand. That is a 150 euro product, tops
and when you get to enterprise it also sucks but in a diffrent way (propriatary drives and loicenses)
i wish HP Microservers would sell for prices the 1st or 2nd gen were selling. Especially the 2nd gen
these were selling for ~200 euros
Pentium 2020, 2GB RAM, 4 hotswap bays
but you could upgrade it to 4c/8t 1260L, upgrade to 16GB RAM, by sacrificing the DVD drive you could add SSD, had PCIe slots
all i want is 100$ matx case with 4-5 3.5 hot swap bays
convert the 5.25" bays 😄
true
hmm maybee
i have already bought from this fella before
also 2 more from rear ?
nah thats psu
seems like that is various options
well, if you are fine with the CPU, why not
the RAM alone is now close to that 50 euros 😄
4 core xeons are cheap so i can upgrade that
ram isnt an issue for me as long as it support ecc
i got like 600+gb of it
2x16GB DDR4 is now like 90 euros
my favorite seller sold all of his 32GB DDR4 ECC modules
Jonsbo N4 is like 120 euros
that is mini itx
neet
N2 to N5
it's a demo build
my issue with Jonsbo N5 is that it is not allowing tall enough CPU coolers
IT HAS A BACKPLANE
can it fit 120s
or is it only 92
Max. CPU Cooler Height: ≤160mm
unfortunately my NH-U14S TR4-SP3 is 165mm tall
and i am not replacing the CPU cooler on my threadripper system 😄
you can just put on a 120
the cooler itself is 165mm tall
Width (without fan)
150 mm
?
the n5 cam fit the nh-p1
maybe once i retire the threadripper system, i might move to something else. For now, Define R6 it is for my server
i only got the r5 😦
Hey guys🫡, I was looking to get a VPN (nord Vpn mostlikely) to setup lan gameshare with my kids when I go work in an other city and I was wondering if there was better options (performance and money wise).
Tanks
- Nintendo switch gameshare btw *
Maybe Tailscale?
That's not what Nord is for.
as said, tailscale is probably the best choice for connecting to your home network
I love Tailscale, it works suprisingly well
I also just learned that they have Mullvad VPN integration
tailscale is love is life
Ho Fr, I probably missread it on the site but they make it look like it is with (wiremesh) stuff to play lan over vpn...
They may have a small service for that but it's not their primary use. That would be internet access.
you mean this? https://nordvpn.com/meshnet/
I mean, Tailscale is free
and if you wanted an exit node that is in another country, Tailsacle is $5 for 5 devices.
RE: meshnet
That seems scary to me. They give this for free? And all you gotta do is let them into your network.
I'm talking about meshnet mostly - although, I would probably go headscale myself.
oh, i thought you meant tailscale lol, yea, Headscale is a thing if you wanted that
I do not know how complicated that is to set up, the main reason I went tailscale was after I was having some trouble with Wireguard because frankly I am fairly new to all that.
I suppose you would set up Headscale on a cloud server kind of thing, and then connect everything to that?
I suppose you could host it on your own hardware, but then what's the benefit over using something like Wireguard
tailscale is peer to peer
tailscale handles the nat traversal and auth
Cool, but I wasn't talking about tailscale - although I strongly dislike anything where I need an account and that is why I would go headscale.
why not just use pure wireguard at some point
wireguard scary
not really, but i think it takes more configuration
I could be completely wrong though
Wireguard requires much more consideration for security. It's not a ruled out thing, but it is not something to take lightly.
wut
wire guard could be more secure
there is no central place where all the accounts are or such
One portal to the entire internal network.
quick question is the Cloud key worth getting? do I need it if i am getting the Cloud Fiber? thank you for the help!!
safeguard of tailscale's relay server
Hey I wanna have a better more stable internet connect my current issue is that my router is pretty far from me and i average speeds of 70mbps over wifi on my pc but when am close to the router its between 200-300mbps this difference in speeds feels pretty major (and i get a lot of stutters and packet loss ingames) I don't have the option of running an ethernet cable from my router to my pc unfortunetely so I was researching and saw other solutions like MoCA and Powerline adapters, my issue is that MoCA is fairly expensive it's around 133 USD in my country and I also need to buy an ethernet switch cause I wanna connect both my pc and console I saw powerline too I heard it's worse but it's much cheaper like 73 USD for the pair I was wondering if powerline is good enough or is it just bad and I should pay the extra for MoCA instead or if there are better options out there the MoCA adapter I was looking at was the (ScreenBeam Bonded MoCA 2.0) (ECB6200K02) and the powerline adapter I was looking at is the (NexusLink G.hn Powerline Ethernet Adapter) (GPL-1200-KIT)
- use punctuation, paragraphs, and linebreaks to make your message easier to read.
- PowerLine AV can be good, but largely depends on your home's electrical wiring.
yet to see anyone praise powerline
The only way to know if PowerLine AV adapters will work for you is to try them yourself.
I've had many successful PowerLine adapter installs... and many failed ones. It really boils down to the circuitry in your home. It's funny too because PowerLine "works best when both adapters are connected to power outlets on the same circuit" and yet... in many of my client's homes, using 2 different circuits (wired to the same electrical panel, of course) worked far more reliably.
The other thing people don't take into account is that you DO NOT want your PowerLine adapters on ANY circuits shared with high-current appliances, like vacuums, microwaves, or other kitchen appliances.
and then there is some induction and they are not so happy
i would imagine high EMI would also be horrible
Would it be okay if I use the built in power outlet on the adapter to plug my router and would an ethernet switch cause issues
well its fine to plug stuff into there yes
Yup. You definitely wouldn't want to use any circuits running directly alongside other circuits, especially if they run alongside a 240v or 480v circuit.
480v?
Some people live close enough to industrial areas that they can have 3-phase 480v installed, usually for welding.
3 phase 400v is quite standard in europe
That's likely because it's not split-phase power like we have here in North America. 🤣 Sometimes I wonder why people feel the need to invent new standards, instead of, you know, just using the same standard...
i think most places here in Norway get 5 wires into the electrical closet, 3 phases then N and PE
PE?
Protective Earth
reason that us is using 120v is that was the upper voltage for knob and tube wiring systems used very early on
aka ground
you don't know anger until you spend 4 hours in a factory trying to figure out why the ONE sensor isn't reading what it's supposed to be reading, only to realize that the installers didn't run the sensor wires in separate conduit and instead decided it was a good idea to run it in the same conduit as the 480V.
oh yeah, but that doesn't come from the electic company right?
no
we have a plate or copper rod
I know. Alec channel best channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMmUoZh3Hq4
It's more than 120V. It's even more than the other 120V! It is the sum of the two (and sometimes a different two!) that makes us who we are. Learn about the US electrical system in this not-at-all snarky video!
Would you care for some links?
Firstly are foremostly, here's that video about fans I referenced;
https://youtu.be/hQ3GW7lVBWY
And ot...
i wish he posted more but i know that would make the content worse so then again not really
that thumbnail is just an ragebait
i can do the same, measure across phases and be like HuH
you can even use the 240v
Most thumbnails are ragebait... because consumers have been conditioned to look for ragebait without even knowing that's what their brain is craving. 🤷 Social media is gonna social media until no longer profitable.
tbf when i first moved to the USA i was pretty baffled by the state of house wiring, but i got over it.
im just so used to factory wiring that i was like "lol tiny wires go brr"
huh
it is so interesting that we managed to standardise device side ports (c13) but not be able to standardise the plug side
i enjoy c14 pdus
on positive note, at least our PSUs can go above 1.6kW and our extension cords do not melt all the time
i had to pick a small induction cooker so i could use it on 230V. Otherwise i would have to had to call an electrician to do a while 3 phase wiring to my kitchen 😄
I LOVE INDUCTION
induction cooktops are wierd
often i see that it can it be either 32a single phase or 16a 2 phase
leftover phase is probably ment for oven
I am trying to setup Unifi UCG fiber and I have a hand full of public IP's that I am trying to setup services like PLEX, Web etc in a DMZ zone. I added the port forward but it doesn't open the port, has any one ran into issue with port forwarding in Unifi?
Have you changed firewall
Port forwarding is NAT
You still need to allow through firewall
I am not sure how to check that in the new Zones setup for unifi
Tailscale is excellent
It has legitimately changed my life
settings > policy engine
do you got a guide on it? I have the port forward rule in place, but doesn't work on the alias IP on the priomary
if I change the wan IP to the Main it connects just fine
Starting with UniFi Network Server Version 9, you can now leverage zone-based firewall rules to enhance security and network segmentation. In this video, we break down how zone-based firewalls work, why they’re a powerful addition, and how you can use them to control traffic between network zones effectively.
...
I have been through that a couple times and he doesn't go over mutli Public IP port forwarding
unifi should automatically create the necessary firewall rules for port forwarding
it does, it just doesn't allow traffic
can you show the rules it did make for the port forwarding
on the second IP
wait what
idk about zones, i guess that must be new within the 2 weeks i was on vacation
if I set up the port forward with the main IP the one bound to the interface I get connection, if I try to switch to the second IP (the Aliaised one) I don't
Kinda have a problem in the same ballpark. I recently tried to setup my ISP’s router in bridge mode, but my Dream Machine Pro refused to accept that it was the captain now. I suspect it was an issue with dual IPs, with the router and dream machine having the same IP. Any suggestions?
Dunno exact nature of your issue but personally using two routers ISP provided one in bridge mode and I just have them on different subnets so ISP router is 192.168.1.1 with bridge mode and "my router" sitting behind it with address in 192.168.0.1 and giving out dhcp addresses with 192.168.0.x (subnet mask of 255.255.255.0)
Dhcp on my router configured to give out addresses starting at 100 so for static IPs or recently setting up microk8s use IPs below that or if want a device in the dhcp range with fixed IP I just set that with address reservation feature of the router.
What's the benefit of doing it this way?
eh which part you mean the two routers? if so is just because the ISP one is modem/router combo and I don't really have much of a choice there but wanted mesh network internally so have my own gear doing the wifi/APs and DHCP for internal network
Ye I was curious why the two
Was thinking you had some super secret cool thing why you did it that way lol
My ISP gave out a modem and router separated.. so I just use the modem and use my own router
ah hehe na just avoiding extra work trying to find compatible hardware with ISP, but with "bridge mode" and wifi/DHCP things turned off on ISP provided one it's mostly "passthrough"
The one they gave apparently is wifi 7 but I didn't really want to use it since I already had all my stuff set up on the current 6e router
Does anyone have advice on how I should handle domains on my home network with my proxmox server etc
I own domain and use it for connecting to minecraft servers and other services but I’m not entirely sure how I should completely like manage my home network in terms of host names domains etc
how does one even begin to fix this
Dumb question but like do you pay for 6 Megabit
no
it is over wifi and well, it was never this bad
oh I think I somehow fixed it
changed the band from 20mhz only to 20 and 40mhz
Oh yep that would do it
Nice
Possible that the band your router/access point is using got congested
You could download wifiman by ubiquiti and use the scanner
Just to see how the frequency bands look in your area
oh I see, thank you
Yo guys
I need some assistance
I think I might have just been attacked or used as a reflection surface for an attack but I need to confirm what even happened first
I was just in a voice call with some friends when my internet fully stopped, the way it stopped felt like a DDoS or some kind of overwhelming type of slow down anyways
I go to check my router see whats up and notice my bandwidth is being absolutley obliterated
over 90GB/s "apparently"
Additionally my routers WebUI reportedly told me the 1Gbps WAN port was operating at 100Mbps and not too long after the wan went straight dead
I had to manually unplug and plug back in the wan to get online again
I have absolutely little to no idea of what occured
I'm going to hazard a guess and say your router's switch chip/network cards are having trouble
Yeah I'm assuming something went wrong and it killed itself
It sbeen fine since though thats the weird thing
I doubt this is a sign of hacking
Just a hardware or software issue resulting in garbage data points
There was an Update from Merlin gnuton and I installed that after all this happened and the router seems litterally fine
But I didn't notice there was a new update right until it was dying
So idk
I don't think you've got an 800 gigabit/s interface to see that value on :P
Yeah exactly
Probably I'd be watching for a repeat and if so replacing the device
Subdomains is how I handle it and working pretty well
About the spike if it happens again can check what processes using network if coming from your machine or shut down clients to see which one it's coming from before cutting the connection maybe, does sound like metrics or other bug in the router but maybe can isolate/find it
Having Wireshark running on some "mitm" machine can work for capturing the traffic and seeing source IP/MAC addresses and whatnot too but more setup to that
I just don't
There's really no need to have domain connected devices at home
I mostly do it for testing purposes, but with that said i also just use caddy to assign my wildcard domain to most services. Like qbit.int.mydomain.com
I'm still using subdomains here but just realized pihole has DNS entries option so can just override/mask the request/response there and works well for local stuff, usually hostnames should resolve in theory but I've had that work maybe 50% of the time (depends on specifics of name resolution mechanism on LAN and different OSes and services installed means is spotty at best).
giving fixed IPs is "good enough" in many cases but nice to be able to reference stuff by name, if trying to get TLS certs for a given thing then do need actually resolvable IP addresses for letsencrypt ACME challenge stuff to work but for other things where they just need a name pihole is working well for local DNS
another bonus of pihole as DNS for local network is can have different local resolved IPs than WAN addresses used for when outside the network (also means I don't need to be publicly listing my internal LAN IPs out on the web)
also also it's a pihole so it blocks tons of ad traffic that is just noise on the network and in my face ❤️
Hello, I am thinking of replacing my ISP's FTTH Router. My ISP provides max of 1 Gb/s Up and Down for non comercial use. I have a tp-link switch with SFP port (not SFP+). I am currently using it to power my CCTV through PoE. How do i go about it?
And what will do NAT/firewall/etc? Are you wanting to replace their router with your own and keep their ONT? Or are you just trying to swap their gear and do fiber direct into the switch, in which case point #1 stands
Do they let you replace their gear even?
It is a combo Router ONT. I would Like to get pf sense but that would require another system. Yes they let us do that.
A switch, especially a TP-Link one, isn't going to do firewalling/NAT/etc
You need something to handling the routing
You need a router
full stop, even $15K switches can barely handle NAT because they're not designed for that
And that's not even talking about doing basic firewalling and everything else. Just get a router or a small box for opnsense/pfsense/etc
so would i have to install sfp module in my router or switch?
router
Ok, I will do more research on it. Thanks for your help.
Honestly unless you want to make this complicated I would just keep your ISP box and the switch and leave it as is unless you have a need to go more advanced
If you want to learn that's awesome but maybe get a separate box like a used Dell box or something and setup Proxmox and do VMs and play around in that away from the main network
Yeah my Ethernet port is full on the ISP router. That was one of the reason for changing it.
You could get a second switch, or a bigger switch
but I get the desire to use less boxes too
would that not affect the speeds or something?
nope
Those ports on the ISP unit are just a 4 port switch and then routing happens in CPU and goes out the WAN port
Ok, I still want to learn about it.
Yah, if you want to learn definitely good there 🙂
Plenty of resources here and YT and online for networking in general
Look for things like David Bombel and Keith Barker
Alright have a Nice day or Night.
Take care 🙂
are you sure they let you do that? The few cases I've seen people with getting a third-party ONT to work, they've had to replace the firmware to spoof an ONT that the ISP uses to trick them into provisioning it. xPON isn't plug-and-play, it requires the ISP to remotely manage the ONT in order to provision it for encryption and settings.
I asked the service member so they didn't say no.
Normally what they'll have you do is put the ONT in bridge mode. They very likely misunderstood your question
I guess, Orignal plan was to just switch it to Bridge mode to use different access points.
Unless there's a specific issue with the ONT, don't try replacing it. Even if there is an issue, start with getting the ISP to replace it before trying to go DIY.
to reiterate, xPON isn't plug-and-play. You can't just plug an SFP(+) xPON transceiver into any router or switch and expect it to get provisioned. It needs firmware running on the router/switch to support the CWMP protocol the ISP uses and normally they'll only provision the device they provided you, so you'd also need to spoof that.
one small earthquake and all the data is gone
to be fair, in many US houses that is true even if the computer is on the floor
That has nothing to do with the house and everything to do with not being set up in a way to protect against it. Doesn't really matter where the thing is at if it's getting violently shaken into things.
i meant the whole house falls on it
If it got to that point - the drives were headcrashed many times long before the blocks started falling.
No earthquakes here
earthquakes are everywhere. Not big, but they can happen. In middle of europe, far away from any fault lines, we still get earthquakes once ina while. Sure, they are usually Richter scale 4 to 5 tops, but they do happen
I’ve never experienced or heard anyone experience one
Highest ever in uk where am from was 5.4 but it’s usually 2
Finally sit down in front of the tv, playing star wars through jellyfin. Mid way through, stops.
Alright i see other stuff probably made ram usage was to high. Rebooted updated. Checked config files, googled an everything.
Fucking ip changed. Yea all other stuff is static and assigned in opnsense except jellyfin
FFFFFFFFFF
Why do even opnsense change the ip? like everything had same ip for years? Why now?
It’s geekin
What?
Means it brokey ❤️
where I work just got rid of one of these and I got to take it home lol
48 ports, all of which can be POE and it has sfp 1 gig and sfp+ 10 gig
The one I kinda want is the 9300 with the two 100gig ports and four 25gig ports and the 48 1000base-t
i am not shooting that high, all i would like to replace my 8x2.5 + 1x 10G with this one, which has 2x 10G 😄
Anyone good at dell powerswitch os9?
Wait for the 9350s 😛
Although some of the 9300-X have 48x 10g-baseT and 8x 25g ports or 4x100g ports which can breakout to 25g
check your version closely as there are models with 4x sfp and 2x sfp+
as well as 370w poe and 740w
Won't be able to aggregate the 10g ports on an unmanaged switch, if thats the intended use.
nah, just switching, with two 10G devices
That one was a pretty decent deal. I just don't really need the switch yet so I haven't really bothered getting serious about it. It's just a 'man that'd be neat.'
Man I hate when ebay redirects you when you click a sold listing link.
Ah, I thought you meant the Catalyst 9300 since you were referencing a Cat 2900 post by someone else
$175 isn't a bad deal for a Nexus 9348 though but shame it's sold out
Sorry, didn't realize they had multiple lineups.
Catalyst 9K, Nexus 9K, ASR 9K, Firepower 9300, and 9000 series APs I think that's all of them 😄
Then there are the Catalyst 8K router lineup, not to be confused with the Cisco 8000 series routers 😛
It is quite weird to have multiple models with the same number.
I mean they are differentiated by product line
Catalyst/Nexus/etc
but yah, it's a pain if you say 9300 without the prefix (Catalyst/Nexus/etc)
I use model like car. The name part.
Guys with my Xfinity router, they removed how much data a device uses a while ago but is it possible to use other tools to find out?
I’m fairly certain it’s because of a kasa WiFi camera tho, my household usually uses 600-800GB of data a month. I just added this new WiFi camera about two weeks ago & now it’s at 1.4TB, I’m not sure why
Cloud recording?
Without changing out the router or putting something in the middle to do packet inspection not really a way iirc
If you want to reduce data usage, record locally
I don’t use cloud recording, I record to a SD card, but it stopped working a couple days ago & I haven’t had time to check it
I also saw something about pi hole blocking the connection or something on a fourm, but I connected it to the router instead of the extender that has the pi hole DNS on
I have other cameras outside but they are all POE powered to my NVR. Could it be because of connecting it to WiFi that it uses a lot of data?
What type of device would I need to monitor the exact data usage of all the devices on my network?
Only data to/from the internet is counted for data caps. WiFi use doesn't imply internet use. If you access the camera when you aren't at home on the same network (or through a smart assistant display "like Google’s Nest Hub or Amazon’s Alexa Show" according to the FAQ), it will be streamed over the internet and only in that case it will consume the data cap. TP-Link's FAQ also indicates there's a 10-min limit for internet streaming, so if you see that limit then it's using the internet.
What do I use to check each device to see each data usage individually?
I’m only assuming it could be that camera since there’s nothing new connected to my Internet in the past year
Maybe it’s something else since there’s only a 10min limit
It's not possible to do retroactively. Do you regularly access the camera feed when not at home?
I only access it for 5-10mins a day when I’m not at home
It doesn’t record to anything
did you sign up for the free 30-day cloud trial? That would make it record to the internet 24/7
No
Then it's not likely to be that camera. 10 minutes of remote viewing every day for a month would only be approximately 11GB, assuming it's a typical 1080p 5Mbps stream.
Yeah it’s a 1080p 5Mbps stream
Traffic stats is a common feature on consumer routers, but if comcast decided to remove it from their modem/wifi combo unit then you'll need a new router that has this. You can save yourself the monthly cost of their crappy wifi/modem lease too
I did that when I first used comcast, but the hassle of getting warranty/work done was longer than just swapping it out at the Xfinity store, & whenever the internet didn’t work, they always told me it’s because of my router even tho something happened on their end
I always have to replace my routers like 3+ times a year too due to storms or somehow my Ethernet ports short circuiting even with an APC ups
I’ll have to do some research on this, maybe I can buy a simple modem to bridge that has that support to view all the devices in my network
if you really think you're better off with their modem, so be it, but you can still just set their modem into bridge mode and just use your own wifi router.
The modem is outside of your local network. It only converts DOCSIS to a WAN ethernet port
Has anyone set up Adguard Home / Pi-Hole with Tailscale, so it blocks ads when connected to the tailnet? It works when I use my own exit node from home, but I am wondering if I can make it work when connected to the tailnet + Mullvad exit node.
For pihole to work all you need is to have l3 connectivity to it over port tcp 53 and have it set as dns in settings
anyone familiar with xray / v2ray to go around censorship in countries like china or iran? dm me i need a little help
I think at the moment a gigabit network too slow for me
yep
and where the hell are u moving from
that has 7tb
i make a newer 30TB storage,and the old 8TB is full,so im littlebit fkd
not how that works
oh i found a problem. the sender computer (cMP 5,1) network settings in 100base now change 1000base
ik but it just goes faster
now is say 13 day. ohkekwlolmao
i created an backup NAS from my mostly useless hard drives (2x3TB WD Red + 3x8TB Seagate Archive 8TB), that is going to take long to backup to as well, even over 2.5gbe
the bigger problem is 6 old classic mac pro 2010. so 10gbe 2.5gbe is overkill.
i make a qos rule in my router,and dedicating to sender machine 60%. now saying 8 day
and technically thats it. no more possibilities
remove the hard drive, connect it via USB3 box or directly
(unless it is some weird RAID which can't be done like that)
its old JBOD raid 4x2TB so its not possible
and unfortunately usb 1,1 in cmp 5,1
so ill take a usb3 pcie card tomorrow
if it is on Linux, it could still be mdraid, thus portable, but i guess it makes no sense to stop now
ty, idk why i overlooked something so simple
Tailscale has some built in DNS features too so think could run into some conflicts with how the services adjust your DNS vs manual use of pihole seems like should work fine can't say I've used that combo of things though
https://tailscale.com/kb/1054/dns
https://tailscale.com/kb/1081/magicdns
Ad-free browsing no matter the device, browser, or location.
Truly I have become death, destroyer of ads.
right now i was wondering why is copying so slow between my new backup server and main server, when main server has 10Gbe and every switch int he house is 2.5Gbe at minimum. And then i realized i don't have 2.5Gbe adapter in that backup server and there is nowhere to put it (old mITX board, PCIe slot is used for HBA, mPCIe slot is used for NVMe storage 😄 )
That's still nowhere near gigabit speeds for that size limit, so you're probably running into disk issues or similar
Could always go USB3...
in my case, no. I am not pulling out hard drives from the server to copy them onto the backup server every single morning 😄
or just bunch of small files
Surely they just mean a USB 3.x gen 1 2.5GbE/5GbE adapter
I mean a NIC
Suboptimal, but you left optimal behind with no spare PCIe slots
Nah, no need. Most of the time it is copying slower cause small files
the real issue right now is drive command errors with the archive drives, i guess i will have to retire them. The two 3TB WD Reds will be enough for the File History/Time Machine backups, but it is kinda sad i will have to put 24TB of storage away because they are SMR drives
technically yes. but is now better the situation
and yeah, confirmed, with just 3TB WD Reds in the pool, there are zero issues. So i guess it is really time to retire the archive SMR drives, or use them just via an USB box
SMR bad lol
well i had these for many years LOL
it might be just LSI HBA hating them, but whatever, it's not like i want to do lot of backups for now
it was just "if i have them, might as well throw them in this ZImaOS build"
back when i bought it, these were very cheap and it was the first SMR drives in the market
It was a bit difficult to avoid them at first
to be fair, we talk about 50-60k hour drives. As single drives in previous sytem, they were fine
(well fine for the use i used them for)
in september 2017 and january 2018 i bought the 8TB drives at 215-220 euros a piece
sadly the prices for hard drives have very much stalled lately, probably due the Seagate used drive scandal too
so X18 16TB is 307 euros. Two years ago i bought X16 16TB for 60 euros less
i think rsync/file size/ssh is the limiting factor
CPU is <30% on every core on receiving system, RAM barely used, and sending system is 2950x with 128GB RAM. So it's rsync/SSH or hard drive(s) on either side
guys, this mini pc has a 1 terabit ethernet port, who'd have thunk it 
i wish people here would sell 5500U mini PCs for that price 🙁
bro i stfg there are like 4 of them and i think imma buy all of them
add them to my rack for some more compute
btw Mac Mini i5 2018, if you don't mind need for T2 Linux variants
upgradable to 64GB RAM, 6c/6t 8th gen i5, they sell for ~200 euros for the i5/16GB RAM/256GB SSD version
5500U would be better for lower power consumption tho
honestly, the main thing i run on these is programs i write / compile for it so for the most part the arch doesn't matter, i write for loonix anyway because windows on a server
no thanks
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/134892/intel-core-i58500b-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-10-ghz/specifications.html in the mac mini 2018
i mean 2018 mac minis will probably flood the markets soon, and already they are around $200
i'm not too up to scratch with macs or what which one is running so like idk, pretty neat
i'm all for companies continuing to support things but also when they do this it'll be neat, we're gonna see a bunch of mini pcs come on the market later this month with windows 10 support dying off just because the mini pc manufacturers didn't include TPM 2.0
my plan is to get 2 more from work for cheap in addition to my already owned mac mini, upgrade them when SODIMM DDR4 prices will go down again (or score some cheap 2x16GB used modules) and boom, 3 node kubernetes cluster with 6 cores/16-32GB RAM/250GB storage in each of them
yeah, Mac Mini 2018 doesn't have Windows compatible TPM either
i keep finding amazing deals on ebay, i saw a 4 node compute cluster with dual 10 core xeons for like £500, unfortunately i was in the process of buying a new motorbike otherwise i'd have picked it up straight away
if you got an X99 board https://www.ebay.com/itm/286409956234 - but on other side it used 100W+ and has a performance of 7600X 😄
ebay is pretty neat if your budget is around £200 though cause i picked up a super micro something or rather with an 8 core atom processor with its TDP being like 15 watts or something for £90
and a cisco SG200-26P which is fine since i only have gigabit networking and i don't need a NAS or anything since i have 6 x 8 TB hdds in my computer xD
and that was £25
i do not plan to buy stuff (other than those retired minis from work), cause i already got way, way too many hardware here
hahahaha yeah, i should follow that too but also it's too cool and interesting, i need to buy a proper rack instead of using the shiddy one i built out of some wood xD once i do that i'll probs put it somewhere useful and then i'll spend too much money on my home datacenter 
I went with the 2697A V4 for the higher single thread perf. You lose 5MB cache but even with 2 less cores, it's still higher MT perf than the 18 core parts including the 2697 V4.
back when i bought the 2699v3's, all the v4's were way more expensive. I mean it was like 40 euros for 2699v3 vs 100+ for any 269xv4
2699v4 was above 200 euros
to be fair, those systems do mostly nothing (2699v3, 128GB RAM, 250GB SSD). The 3900X, 16GB RAM (because the 32GB kit died), 2TB SSD, 1080 TI system is also mostly offline. Technically if i ignore the desktop and the router mini PC, i only use 3 other systems - HTPC in bedroom, the 2950X/128GB RAM server and the Ivy Bridge mini NAS which is just there to do daily backups from the server
Yeah, my 2697A V4 was only $40
looks like current US stock is $25 for 2699 v3 vs $44 for the 2697A v4 or $35 for the 2697 V4 so the v3 is still cheaper, but they're all within the cost of a pizza.
my biggest sadness is that i am tight at cash right now due upcomming expenses, so i missed the chance to buy 4x32GB DDR4-2400 ECC REG for 20GBP a piece from a seller i once bought from
now i need to decide if i keep the 4x32GB DDR4-3600 non-ECC modules in the X99 system i don't use, or i will move it to the 3900X system i don't use 😄
also one of my Seagate Archive 8TBs very clearly is dead, it was doing weird things before, and in Seatools it did an instant smart self test failure. So that one goes to the dead drive pile right now. The remaining three, i need to figure out what can i use them for (after testing), because obviously they can't be used even as normal hard drives for stuff like doing backups from the server (they cause Linux FS to switch to readonly mode due all the SATA command failures)
I'd either get a 2699v4 or 2690v4, 2697v4 has lower single thread performance
and with older chips that really matters
Ehhh
It matters, but they're all so far behind on IPC that it's never going to be that big of an equaliser
The big Xeons' key feature is lots of parallelism
i am not replacing the 2699v3's LOL, i will try not to spend on anything else for the X99 systems if possible, maybe except some cheap RAM and possibly storage if needed
Charge your phone
How do you like the U6 mesh. I am thinking of getting an E7 Pro XGS, Swiss Army and UDR7. I have the Cloud Fiber but want to have a WiFi access device by my desk. Is it possible to use the UDR7 as just a WiFi AP with the ports used for additional data ports. Or should I use something else for the WiFi at my desk? Thank you for the help
yes
do you mean you already have this?
Yes Sir. I just have the fiber. It’s great. Using 2 old routers in AP mode.
so you want to buy the UDR7 but only for the wifi??
i think its like a u7 lite in terms of wireless performance
Good to know. So may be better off not getting the UDR7.
One thing I think Ubiquiti should look at is adding cell boosters to their system.
you mean this?
I didn't realize those where cell boosters. I thought they where Hotspots.
They're not
Wouldn't make sense for ubiquiti to do cell boosters, it's not something they could integrate into existing hardware, it'd be a separate product which would be pointless, as that already exists
also the small thing of phone already be using wifi for everything???
i have yet to see a reason to turn off wifi calling
WiFi calling isn't always available
what
Business settings
eh
They kinda could easily intigrate it into their system. They have the outdoor wifi or bridge devices that could work as an antana. Then they would just have to put in cell antanas or use a seperate device to boost the siginal inside.
I don't think you understand how cell boosters function
Go into a metal building and you will understand how the siginal drops.
I kinda do. It just takes the siginal the Antanna gets and then boost it into the building.
Repeater and boosters are different
And you have confirmed that you do not understand how boosters work
Or how cell networks work really
They aren't just long range wifi
Boosters setup a tunnel back to the provider and broadcast a new cell signal and backhaul over the network
Correct i get that they are not just long range wifi.
They are like having your own extended cell tower on your property.
So how don't you get that you wouldn't be able to integrate it into any normal network product
And you can't just set them up where ever you want either
^
Linus has one, as mentioned in the recent video about fixing shit in his house, it's been performing like shit since the company changed phone providers, since it's antenna isn't pointed at the correct tower anymore
LOL i did not say normal network. I was making a suggestion what would be something they could put in their lineup that could be monitored by the Ubiquiti OS.
.
Thats an easy fix. I am in a rural area. Internet drops frequently. Cell service can be non-existent. So a booster is needed.
Why cant you set them up where ever you want?
Regulations from both the cell company and government bodies for one
Suddenly you have interference and other aspects to contend with, compliance, etc.
o he wanted to do what i was hoping he was not
No regulations that stop you from getting a booster WeBoost sells them with no issues.
And they have to interoperate with the carriers, carriers have to approve them, etc
I can see that on the device side. but on the consumer side their are no regulations. I can put up a booster on my property
I still have to get approval, as the end user, to connect the booster to the carrier's network
Well thanks for turning my suggestion into the shitter. lol
Watch next year they will come out with a booster 🤣
Before I updated my truenas from truenas core to community edition I was getting my full gigabit but now I am only getting around 96 Mbit
Didn't change anything
Look in your management interface at disk activity while you're doing nothing. It's probably upgrading the array. You could also try iperf3 testing to check the network interface for full speed.
I like them alot
They’re very small, the only con is that they get quite hot
They’re also fast and you can just place it anywhere
That looks strangely like it's negotiating 100 instead of 1000. By chance might you have changed or damaged the cable that was once in use?
Ik, but I don't think that I've damaged the cable
but i will try to replace it
Or perhaps the switch is managed and the port that either device is on is set to 100 instead of 1000.
thx a lot
yes
Buncha bullshit
wat
Psyop by big wifi to sell new aps fr
no problem.
update: bought 2 
now to clean em up and set up truenas for vm storage
seller has many more
they have 4x 3.5 bays behind lock
i will try printing these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4071564 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6458748 as i am missing some drive trays
HDD caddy replacement for HP microserver and HP proliant serverThe parts has been tested in:HPE ProLiant MicroServer Gen8HPE ProLiant DL360e Gen8But this part is also compatible with many HPe hardware.The lock system has been not designed yet, but can be done with a simple square part with a spring (a square hole has been designed at the top lef...
good stuff for running this i have a thinkcentre and pi im going to make a 3d printed nas bay for the pi to run true nas while the thinkcentre runs ubuntu server for game servers. never done proper netowrking so do yall think this would allow me to recreate the server shown?
PI can run true nas?
kinda its hard to explain how i have done it
its not very effective ill be swapping it soon to somthing else
what is your budget for proper switch?
no clue its not a super large scale project just a little room server so whatever is reasonable
no real budget just keep the total under 100
if possible
this is kinds the idea rn
skip the 5 pack of cables at the far right thats just for updating my router to cat 6 instead of cat 5
that "rack" is really overpriced for what it is
its 15% off making it lower
but if you got cheaper
i dont mind lol
this will likely be up on my desk or behind a tv
so trying to stay semi small form factor
you can literally print one
my printer bed isnt big enough thats my issue
i have a basic adventurer 5m by flashforge
and im not crafty enough to model one
I got a full sized rack used for that price
not everyone needs or has the space for a full sized one, but ye, that's certainly an option
can i get some advice for some wifi/network stuff? I have a situation where I will have other people living in the same home as me in a separate part, but only short term (8-10 months). While there is a possibility of them buying separate internet, we also know that it costs a lot to do such short term. I had been thinking is it possible to relay a separate wifi network down to there (my current ispn provided router does not reach) with some new hardware, such as a mesh system, without running wire? I had a few more questions as well, such as is it possible to give them a physical access point for ethernet, and is it possible to have a router where they have admin over their network without having admine over mine?
Why do you want a seperate wifi network? If its for speed you can do that but it wont magically speed up your network, likely you'll see some minor improvements but it wont increase bandwith or anything. Setting up a vlan would be the right option and it would increase security. You can have a seperate wifi network that connects to seperate part by giving them a wireless access point and telling them to connect to that, (make sure that its a vlan).
Simply said, make a vlan (which is hard to do and ngl im not fully able to make one myself, though some routers do have a sort of 'guest' network built in)
connect a switch to router and then a WAP to switch, all on a vlan. this gives them a physical and wireless access point.
i do not think its possible to have a router where they have admin over their network without also have admin over your network
not an expert though just a guy whos interested in this stuff
vlans are hard to do
our current ispn provided rourter allows for multiple networks, the main problem here is the range while also seperateing the network
Oh then just get a switch and a WAP
some cables
shouldnt be too hard, except for the vlan stuff
as i said, cable less is the hard part, and idk what to do about that. its 3 stories and about 20 meters distance between current router and where we would place the second one
i has been hoping to do smtn like a dream machine and a wierless mesh down to there, and then run a second network for them
pretty sure cat 5e can go up to 100m
not open to drilling anything?
powerline ethernet exists but its not thaat good an option aswell
no, sorry not an option for us
as if we would want full in wall and that costs a lot
as that looks bad and half done
well i mean you can make it not look bad and half done
everything is a tradeoff
it'll take some more time but you can make it look fine
besides its temporary so not thaat serious
if you want something professionally done but are uncomfortable getting your hands dirty you could also just call up an IT company willing to help you with the job
good for you. I finally figured out that the Seagate Archive SMR drives were failing only on the LSI HBA, so i used the remaining 3 SATA ports on the motherboard to connect my 3 working Seagate Archive drives to the backup NAS. (the 4th Archive drive is failed, according to seatools)
Really
How can a hba kill a drive?
I do not think it killed it
I just think the HBA did not like that drive
As Seagate does their own tom fuckery with some stuff
I avoid Seagate as much as possible
I have heard from data recovery shop that 80-90% of work orders are Seagate
With Seagate it really depends on the model and the product line a lot. Their server drives are decent their barracuda line is bad tho. Their ssd's are nice tho for sure the firecuda line
I was just looking at some recertified or white label Seagate drives for my NAS.
the Ironwolf Pros are pretty good but the consumer drives are eh at best
Also Seagate exos sas drives are often rebranded by server vendors tho they do use modified firmware. The IBM branded ones are a hassle tho the fix to make them work is just reformat them to use them in truenas
Even their ironwolf pros and exos are like 2x the failure rate compared to WD from backblaze stats
Backblaze stats are not normalized though for failure rates, or at least never were when I looked at them
Wdym normalized for failure rates
Say I have 10,000 WD drives and 100 fail, super low failure rate by that metric alone
Say I have 1,000 Seagate drives, 100 fail, that's a pretty high failure rate by just that metric
There is more to it than x drives failed out of y
I think you misworded that
"x drives failed out of y" would be the failure rate, not just the raw amount of drives failed, which is good
backblaze has the failure rate percentage listed as long as I can remember
Yes, the only have failure as a percentage of total drives deployed
if they dont publish the percentages, you can just calculate them yourself. but im pretty certain they do publish not just purchases and failures on their own
If they have a low number of drives deployed and a few fail that negatively impacts the "failure" rate
my only non-archive seagate drives are these tho 😄
41 failures of 33.8k
Uptime, batch allocation, etc all play a role in failure rates too
yes, that just means you need to filter out the ones with an extremely low amount of drives deployed. Once you do that, Seagate still is about 2x failure rate as similar WD models
Actually I think they do the failure rate by hours but I can't remember
id rather look at trying to buy different batches than go for specific skews that seem to hold up good
Exactly
Most low amount are drives they get to compare newer models and higher capacity drives. The ones that fail most are often older models with high uptime
It's a data point but too many people take it as x drive failed therefor brand bad and that one data point is all they ever need to examine
@clear igloo read this https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annualized_failure_rate.
What matters most with drives is do they fail often within a few months to a few years any drive that lasts 4+ years of solid uptime has done well
they have their stats here if you want to play around with SKUs https://www.backblaze.com/blog/backblaze-drive-stats-for-2024/
you can see how much worse all of the Seagate failure rates are compared to almost every single other one
Also there is a reason backbaze uses so many Seagate drives as they are so much cheaper then the other brands and it's better to have more drives so you can have some cold and hot spares
If you can find them, I couldn't really see any of them being cheaper than WD last time I looked for drives
want to get a 8port managed switch with alteast 1 poe+ port, what brand do you guys reccommend i buy?
whats your budget as i doubt you have budget for a cisco
if you want just one poe port just use an injector
oh gosh no those are like 500 bucks at the cheapest right?
Omada SG2something something P
idk i feel like it'd cause unneccessary clutter and im trying to have a clean setup
would under 100/150 bucks? be good?
Yeah
thats about what TL-SG2008P costs (90e)
or these from ubiquiti
although I've heard complaints about tplink
Small question that's more part of Bluetooth than networking
I am going to install the MSI MEG x570 Unify board soon, and it has WiFi antennas that also second as Bluetooth
I intend to use Ethernet for this, and would like to use Bluetooth so I can pair my Earbuds and some controllers to my PC.
It is my understanding that WiFi is less secure than Ethernet. Is this only while it is in use, or is it a risk if WiFi is merely available to the PC?
I only ask since, if WiFi being available is risky even if it is not enabled, I would use the Bluetooth Dongle that I have instead, although I would prefer not having to should it be fine
you'll be fine with WPA2 mate
the wifi is as secure as your password for it with wpa2+.
at most what could happen on the accesspoint side is someone else connecting to your wifi and the network that the wifi is setup with.
at most what could happen on the pc side is you connecting to someone elses wifi that looks identical but isnt yours, but that would need to be a very targeted thing.
but if ur only using the antennas for the bluetooth and wifi is off your wifi is just off and no one can attack you
im considering this
with the 60w adapter which i need its 130 usd though
and if i want the full 210w it can provide i need to pay 185
So worst case even with WiFi on, A: Not much, and B: Would have to be very targeted
And if I use Ethernet, then it's completely fine