#networking
1 messages · Page 42 of 1
802.1X Port authentication with multiple host
Multi host as soon as the AP is authorized the port is authorized and allows all other MACs through
multiple host? switch 1 is still going to have to have open 2,3,4,5,6
oh, thats a thing?
so how does that work in practise, the mac of client is bundled inside the mac of the ap?
Anyone knows if you can install and run proxmox through a WiFi instead of ethernet for the installation and web console
web console sure
So me and my dad tried to test it with a 20€ Amazon device. It did make a tone when you connect both parts of it directly, but we went through all the cables (yes we probably unplugged our neighbour's internet) and it didn't show any one as matching, even the one which we know our cable internet is going through (disconnecting it made our internet stop working). What could be the cause of this? Did we possibly do something wrong? Should we try again with a different testing device?
yes
although wdym by install?
anyone know of a switch or router with at least 2 2.5gbps (wan + 1 lan) for under $100 canadian?
@peak cloak I installed proxmox via a usb drive on my pc but since my pc uses WiFi adapter I couldn't log into the web console from another pc or anything like that
oh yeah so you will need to setup wifi via the cli
How do I do that?
and the default proxmox networking setup won't work since you can't have multiple macs on an wifi client iirc
Oh so how should I make it work?
Thanks
Is it possible to set up another router and than connect the desktop via Eth cable to that router ?
a wifi bridge? yes
Yes like connect the router in my room to the main router wirelessly and then use an ethernet cable from my router to pc
In theory yes, not all routers support it in their stock firmware though so you may need to look into custom firmware like ddwrt, openwrt, or tomato depending on what router model you have
I see thanks
how to set up local DoH on adguard?
rip
I ran nextcloud sync on a large folder in my surface pro and it duplicated the folder on my PC
now im out of storage space
what's the correct setup for nextcloud sync so that i only have one copy of the folder stored locally?
plz help
I have a downloads folder and a nextcloud/downloads folder in my user folder
figured it out. I needed to uncheck downloads from the folders in my /nextcloud sync
Any ideas?
exchange building?
coax are well shielded sometimes you need to be right into the core piece to hear it
what device did you use
take photo of that "20$ amazon device"
did you test that it works on known good coax?
We didn't have the right adapters to use it with our coax cables iirc, but as I said it did work when connecting the pieces together directly. When we tested the line that we know our cable internet goes through, it did not work however.
If I understand correctly, Issue: Potential user unplugs AP cable and plugs in their laptop Solution: Don't give them access; door access control, cabinet lock, ethernet ends that unlock w/ tool.
No, I mistakenly had the folder set twice in 2 locations
explain why my downloads are always limited to 10mb/s. i should be getting up to 30-40 since im paying for 500mbps
like i get downloading smth will obviously limit my speed on the test
but im saying that speed regardless doesnt match what im getting
I can't read well on my phone but don't mix up b and B
1MB = 8Mb @cinder sapphire
i know the difference. but 278 Mb doesnt equal 10MB
True, but then it depends on the server
Try downloading a known game on steam like cs:go
its the same everywhere, xbox, steam, epic, etc
What's your storage?
Oh btw use ublock not AdBlock 😉
bet
I mean your storage could have a recent issue
It's quick to check, just run a quick test
I know it sounds stupid and it's probably useless but when troubleshooting it's always better to check everything
how would i check a sabrent drive?
Idk, hdtune test for example
Or maybe just copy something from another drive to this one
Because speedtest works fine
If it says 280 consistently then you have around 280, there are no shady business between them and ISP
So it's probably their server that has a problem or your write speeds or cpu decompression speed or smth
this is under stress and i normally hit 500mbps so thats normal. what isnt normal is the lack of speed from any download
and its not my drive it would seem so far
test isnt done yet so ill see
Ok
Also try to download cs:go on steam too, with this one it will be a certainty that this is not their server
And open up a task manager to look at CPU usage and network speed while doing do (and not doing it too)
Because as I said if you get 500 on speedtest it's not your internet connection that has a problem
Oh and alternatively you can also try other speedtest websites
booth ookla and google say 500+
test is almost done
so its just an xbox thing then?
Yeah this doesn't hit cache size but whatever, I think that if the cache is saturated on this drive you'll go down to at least 600MB/s
So no problem with the drive and it's not filled
That was the first thing I told you 
Servers aren't always up to the task yeah
its been pretty consistent lately
Being someone that manages servers and didn't sleep at all last night cuz some were down believe me it happens 
for a company that runs their own server hosting you'd think theirs would be up to the task...
Or they have a fixed amount of bandwidth and lately everyone is using it cuz Forza 5 or idk
i guess? but the only releases soon are starfield and exoprimal. ive seen smth like this happen when fallout 76 released but not this consistent over the last 3 months
it happens on epic too, but that makes more sense since they don't focus on server bandwidth as much
Yeah but anyway it's just their fault
Well not always
Could also be congested network
does anyone know which one is the better router between:
ASUS RT-AX86U Pro AX5700
ASUS ROG Rapture GT-AX6000
ASUS RT AXE7800 Tri-band WiFi 6E
those are the options that are available in my area & at a price that I can afford
do you have higher than gigabit internet from your isp?
I'm currently at a 1gp internet plan, but I chose routers with 2.5 gpbs incase I might want to upgrade
mainly looking for something decent for gaming but also comes with better range than my current router, too many deadzones
my ISP's old router had better wifi range than what I'm currently using 😂 so I'm in need of an upgrade
you know that you dont need a new router if you want better range
well what would you recommend me do?
if you just want better wifi coverage get a access point and mount it where you have deadspots
I know that'll definitely help, but my router is old enough that I thought of upgrading it first then check to see if I still need more range, then I'd get an access point
I would honestly get a firewall/router and then dedicated APs
Is there any way for me to test the coaxial cable coming into my house?
I scheduled an installation with Cox, I received an e-mail saying that it is on-hold without updates, but I didn't have the time during the day to call them.
I start grad school tomorrow and I had orientation all day Wednesday through Friday.
I set up the Motorola combined modem\router in my room and couldn't get anywhere.
I actually currently have CenturyLink, but they said they need to tear a big hole in the neighbor's hedge to get me the full 140 Mbps, while we had 300 Mbps out in the country, and Cox offers 500 Mbps for the same price.
I wasted hours with 3 different Cox employees.
The first one took longer and longer to respond and Cox disconnected me when she hadn't written anything in 30 minutes.
I gave the second one all of the information I gave the first, he asked for it again, and then I believe that he activated the modem, but didn't say so, just "Have an excellent rest of your day."
It still didn't work, so I went through everything all over again, and he said that the modem that already showed up as activated on Cox's site was now activated--but still didn't work.
I connected it in the living room and figured that I needed to run a long ethernet cable throughout the rental, just like I did back in the country, but it only got 29 Mbps, not the 32 Mbps that I got through CenturyLink.
I tried to increase this.
Cox had a page saying to power cycle the modem\router and then disable the firewall.
That didn't do anything, but I disabled the VPN, and it hasn't worked since.
Windows keeps telling me that I need to log in and then it tells me to activate the modem, but I can never complete the process, the pages won't load.
I needed to connect to CenturyLink to enable the VPN, but as soon as I switched back to Cox it wouldn't load the pages again.
I reset the network settings twice, but it didn't change anything.
I swapped the ethernet and coaxial cables without any effect.
How do I make this work?! 🙂
I bought a Motorola MG7700 Modem WiFi Router Combo.
Have you check the coax cable entering your domicile to the modem?
Are all connections tight?
Do the splitters, if they have directionality, appear oriented correctly? Are there a large number of splitters (each one has signal attenuation usually)?
In my experience a not insignificant amount of issues with cable modems in the past is that the connection to the incoming coax is bad and that's why my cable modem is not able to connect.
I replaced it without effect.
All connections are tight.
I didn't find any splitters or I would have plugged the modem\router into the cable on the other side.
That's not really a response to my suggestion.
My suggestion is examining, to the extent physically possible, every connection between the coax coming into your building coming to your modem.
Unless you are in a single family home with a single coax cable to a single jack there are going to be multiple cables to examine.
There is a box on the side of the house and a jack on the inside of the far wall.
Were the connections in the box good and tight as well?
If you undo the wall plate, is that connection good?
If yes... And your cable ISP cannot reach your modem (they should be able to tell you this over the phone) then you may have:
- a modem incompatibility issue if bringing your own.
- a defective modem.
- a problem with the connection to the house from the cable company (these sometimes happen due to tree damage, or a work order to remove/end cable service to the dwelling you're in or an adjacent one but someone screwing up the work order).
[1-3 listed in no particular order of likelihood.]
How do I open the box?
Usually there is a screw or a socket that is needed. Do they have it secured differently?
If there's a lock on it, I'd wait for my provider.
They said that they activated my modem when I had a green downstream light, but no upstream, and when I plugged into the living room I had both arrows and they were blue, so wherever the splitter is, I don't think the cable going into my room is any good.
From what I have read, it takes days of dealing with one IT employee after another until they finally agree to send someone, and they probably want to charge you.
If you find the splitter you can swap the cables, see if that helps.
If I find the splitter I can connect to the cable coming from the residential box.
Well, sometimes you'll need a female-female plug, but yes, if you already have one, great.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-F-Series-Coaxial-Cable-Female-Adapters-2-Pack-85-071/204063261
Something like this let's you remove a splitter.
But, when you have the modem in the one room it works?
It worked until I disabled the VPN. Now Windows keeps saying that I need to login, Cox keeps saying that I need to activate my modem, and I can never complete it because the pages don't load.
And if you hard reset the modem to factory defaults so that whatever settings you changed revert?
I never changed anything with the modem\router, the VPN is on the laptop.
(Keep in mind, "activating a modem" is basically registering its unique identification into a table and saying "this device is acceptable to connect to our network".)
Yes, which the second employee did, but the third did it again, and Cox keeps telling me to redo it.
Okay...
So, if you run in CMD with admin: ipconfig /all
Do you have an IPV4 address populated?
i.e. Do you see a network?
By what mechanism is Cox telling you to reactivate?
For traffic to stop functioning when you change your VPN, that sounds like it may be on your laptop's end.
I think you mentioned your modem is also a wireless access point and router, if you turn your phone to airplane mode and connect to your network via WiFi does your phone have access to the internet?
(i.e. Is this a nothing works problem or just not this device works problem?)
It works okay with CenturyLink, it is just half-power without putting a big hole in the neighbor's hedge.
Well, CenturyLink and Cox are two separate ISPs, no?
So what does CenturyLink working have to do with Cox working or not?
I'm confused.
(Also, I guess I'm confused as to what kind of ISP needs a large hole through a neighbor's hedge unless it is line of sight, but that's another matter.)
The installer said the phone box is inside the hedge.
Rogers is the Comcast of Canada
Enjoy.
Okay, so the problem is in order to access the box to make modifications/upgrades they you need to cut a hole in the hedge.
Fair enough.
Would an upgrade benefit your neighbor too?
Maybe they'd be okay with so temporary hedge ugliness for better service.
I would rather have 500 mbps with Cox than 140 with CenturyLink.
So... Then back to my questions about what does or does not work with Cox and limiting the problem space?
I am trying to figure out why it completely stopped working when I disabled my VPN.
Your response to me asking if the Cox issue was a problem for all devices vs just your laptop was ~"CenturyLink works".
Not sure how that helps you...
If that's not what you want...
Cox doesn't do me any good if I cannot make it work and I don't know that I have the time during grad school to fight this.
Problem solving 101:
Define your problem space, eliminate variables.
Right now you claim Cox does not work with VPN disabled and that the Cox is now stating a modem that was working needs to be activated again...
That's a very broad problem space.
Claim, eh? Thanks for the vote of confidence.
By the way, I want Google Fiber--and a quadrillion dollars.
You've listed multiple different symptoms with multiple different possible causes.
I've asked you to look into a few different things based on your described symptoms to narrow down to a root cause.
My apologies.
Good luck.
I uninstalled the VPN and pulled up Discord on my phone. I will go through your messages one by one, but since I cannot use Discord on a laptop without Internet, I will send photographs of everything.
Yay you.
This is what I get as soon as I desable CenturyLink wifi.
Okay, what does the middle option do?
According to you, your modem is activated.
But, if I read your messages correctly (I may not have) it sounded like you had this working in one room during the first phase of activation, then moved it the modem to your living room.
Since then it has prompted you for activation.
It never worked in my bedroom, but they activated it twice.
Okay, so it worked once in the living room, until turning off the VPN.
Are you currently connected to the modem via WiFi or Ethernet?
Ethernet.
Good, that's usually better for troubleshooting.
Hmm
It is like I don't have enough of a connection to establish a connection.
CMD with admin:
ipconfig /all
This will return what your laptop sees itself connected to network wise.
And I believe the address you want is the gateway address.
Using that IP in your browser should bring you to your modem's login page.
From there you should be able to get actual status info out of the modem (there will be some sort of username and password that maybe you configured before or default).
Rather than this dummy page that you keep getting forwarded to.
192.168.0.1 is the address you want.
Wait, that's what it gives you when you try that IP?
Right. That is usually it, but some devices insist on being special.
When I told it to reconnect.
(Also, pretty clear evidence that Cox is full of BS if they're telling you the device is registered... But whatever...)
Ah. Okay.
I don't think there is anything private on these screens..
I mean, don't show the passwords, you're fine.
From what I have read, tier 1 techs read a script and don't know what they are doing.
Okay, so you need to ask someone at Cox what MAC address they have registered for your modem and confirm that it is the one you have displayed on the modem.
I assume the number on this page matches the address printed on your device (bottom or back)?
Also, you don't need to send a screenshot, but may be worth looking at the advanced options to see if your device software has a status page where it gives you any upload and download info, and if there are any firewall or VPN settings.
This is what Cox shows back on my desktop. I don't know if anyone can do anything with my serial number, but I am a careful man:
None of the options seem to do anything useful.
Neither shows you the MAC address?
Does the serial number match the one on your device?
(Don't need to send screenshots of serial number, just double check that their info is right.)
If I click on anything it says:
There aren't any checkboxes or anything to select a device--and only one device.
Does a managed switch require a vlan tag since it has an ip address?
That depends. What do those words mean? 🙂
[Responses like that got me banned from TechSupport or something--without warning]
Right, so their online portal is halfway useless.
You unfortunately need to talk to someone at Cox who actually has the wherewithal and capability to confirm what device they have listed on your account.
That serial number that I blurred is my MAC address.
Okay, so then the way I would handle this is to call them, ask them to remove the current device, and re-add it.
I would consider a factory reset of the device, if you have not already done so, beforehand, just in case any settings you may have changed may be causing your headache.
I didn't change any settings, but I will reset it regardless.
My experience with ISPs in dealing with them for about 23 years now is that I need to know how this stuff works better than they do until I get to tier 3 or 4.
So, someone entered the wrong number, and wasted my entire day?
Because tier 1 or 2 don't actually know how anything works, and are following a script.
...and that script doesn't include any problems.
Well, something about how they entered it does not seem to be working, yes.
Look, telecoms have chosen a race to the bottom approach.
They mostly hire out a call center in India and say: read this.
And that is T1 / T2 support.
I keep reading that life is vastly better when Google Fiber is available.
I've had decent experiences with Verizon FiOS and Starry.
So far it's okay with Astound (RCN).
I've had multiple really craptadtic experiences with Comcast that have probably reduced my total life expectancy.
We only have Verizon in my area, but not my neighborhood.
I was using my phone's hotspot until CenturyLink connected and it is much better, but not nearly as good as we had in the country.
Ameritech and AT&T U-verse were middle of the road.
And AOL was a farse...
But, that just dates me.
I always wondered about sending out fake AOL discs with viruses on them.
But, to answer your question, yes, you're going to have to handle the person who answers the call, tell them exactly what you want them to do, and basically steer them any time they try to have you do the next thing on the script.
If you feel like you're going around in a circle, ask to escalate to someone who is more comfortable with your request.
Bank of America sold 1,597 rural branches to Washington Federal, which didn't have 1,600 branches at the time.
Mom and Dad spent a week transferring over their accounts to the new owners and then changed over to Chase because Washington doesn't do transfers after business hours or provide any support.
Dad passed away the next week and Mom blamed the stress from changing over all of their accounts twice.
Oh, and ask them to wait for you to confirm that whatever they say they did actually worked
Absolutely.
The third time I was trying to verify before responding, but they disconnected.
Also, mention it's your third time calling, you are still having issues, and would like to escalate.
Sometimes you can skip to a better tech.
When they said "I'll need the Model and brand of cable modem, MAC address, and Serial number" I sent a picture and apparently they messed up that.
This will be the fourth!
However, hopefully if they just put the correct number in the correct place this will actually work, so I will have them send my information back to me.
You know, since this connects at all I wonder if there is still a worse problem.
Possibly, but get past this one first.
"Hi! Nice to meet you (sending you virtual high fives), I understand that you are seeking assistance, No need to worry, you've reached one of Cox's top tier agents..."
@ me if you need me.
I'm doing some indoor cycling.
Don't the cool kids call that "Spinning?"
I asked "Exactly what is your tier?" and apparently this is a complicated question.
"Sure, I'm your support representative that handles your billing and technician support assistance."
That did not answer my question.
Once that I wasted hours of my life with five different Cox representatives and several hours trying to make it work on my own, one told me to call 912, and after half an hour I was finally able to set up the modem on my end.
My 500 mbps connection tested at 512.
I think this would fit in this chat?
My internet comes in from the wall via a Coax cable that plugs into the modem.
From there, that's connected to the router via a CAT5 cable.
Router connects to the family computer in the same room via a CAT5 cable
(This means I can't really move the router around much without running a new ethernet cable)
Router also connects to my personal computer, upstairs and across the entire house. (Again with CAT5)
Wi-fi signal is generally good through-out the house, but my room suffers connection.
They didn't run it centrally and opted to put this all in 1 corner of the house.
Is there any way I can strengthen the signal for the wifi?
Is it possible/plausible to get faster speeds by replacing any cabling?
Current router is a TP-Link AC4000 (Archer A20)
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC4000-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B084HLB7LJ
This is what I get using my wired connection on my personal computer across the house. Not the best but it works for gaming. The issue comes in when using my phone or if someone's on a laptop in here trying to join me in-game. They stutter and lag really bad. The latency is insane, making anything more than a very simple co-op game, pretty much impossible.
And this is what I get via my phone (Pixel 6 Pro)
Unfortunately I don't have the laptop here at the moment to show how abysmal the speed is on that.
But for instance, "Stardew Valley". A game me and my better half like to play together at times. Is a rather simple game but when she's in here on the laptop there is a good 3-4 seconds of delay between what we're doing cause of her connection. Hell, it often drops connection completely and her laptop says there's no Wi-fi at all cause it has such a hard time detecting it.
In order:
Returns 0.0.0.0 or :: as the result
Returns an error refusing to resolve the record for policy reasons
Returns an error saying the domain doesn't exist.
Returns 0.0.0.0/:: again
Returns whatever you tell it to
which one is the best?
Well that was fun. My HBA cooked itself. The server was none too pleased.
Guess the next one gets a fan
Honestly whichever works for you? Leave it be unless another setting gives you a desired effect
okay ty
Well glad it's working.
Isn't it amazing just how much of a hassle they make it for you to get there though?
Like, I'm paying you for a service, all I'm asking is that you deliver what I'm paying you for.
Not quite.
I have a smart trainer that has internal gearing that matches that of my road bike.
I use that paired with Zwift to do virtual rides.
Spinning is usually more a tempo and heart rate question. In my case I have virtual ascents and descents where the bike will add resistance on climbs and lower resistance, actually to the point of driving the "wheel" when going down hill.
It sounds like you have a fair amount of CAT5 running through the walls.
Depending on where all you have places to plugin the best recommendation I can give you is adding a second access point (AP), either more centralized or on the other side of the house.
The device you use can either be a dedicated AP or a wireless AP / switch (like your current TP-Link device) configured in AP mode.
Doing this should allow you to have much better coverage all while using the same wireless network ID.
I was sorta hoping to avoid that as I didn't want a 2nd point that I'd have to manually switch my devices over to. Entryway to the house is near the 1st point and it's far enough to weaken the signal, but still close enough I feel as though wireless devices wouldn't let go and continue to stay latched onto the 1st.
I haven't looked at routers in a long time. And sadly not really seeing much info regarding specs when it comes to the range. Is there any way to check that sort of thing when comparing routers? I can get it maybe...10-12 ft closer to where I need it but ideally I'd love if I could just have a bigger, more powerful signal/range
If you use it in access point mode it should not require manual switching.
It should be automatic to whichever has the strongest signal.
You would have one wireless network with multiple access points, not separate networks.
If you look back to 04/25/2023 I provided a lot of resources about wireless signal ranges, attenuation, etc.
How bad are these?
im gonna call my isp and yell at them, those numbers shouldnt be below 25
makes sense im only getting 1/5th out of the speeds im paying for
apparently my ISP is not notified when the ISP they buy bandwidth from is doing infrastructure upgrades, apparently the door to door salesman for another ISP knows more than my ISP 
Pretty sure that thanks to Linus price of epyc stuff on ebay will skyrocket
I doubt it
I am at the limit of my dogshit isp gateway/router/modem
Can't wait to swap this out for a WAG-D20
I have performance issues with intervlan routing using a bare metal pfsense 2.7.0 box with two i226 Intel NIC ports. One NIC port is assigned as the WAN interface and the other is assigned as the LAN interface.
The LAN interface has 5 VLANs on its interface (Router on a stick mode). I have an ISP that is providing us with 1gbps down/up. Whenever I do download/upload speed tests, upload speed gets pinned to 142-145 mbps. This traffic comes from VLAN 100 and goes out to the WAN.
When I remove all VLANs from the LAN interface and only have it as a simple WAN+single network LAN setup, I get the full download and upload speeds again.
If I were to dedicate the VLANs to their own interface ports (one per VLAN) would this resolve my PFsense performance issue while still being able to firewall traffic?
What's the actual problem?
I don't have a 10gig port
I have sfp+ going into my PC, switch and router but I am limited by the wan port on my ISP router that I have to use until I bypass completely
I'm asssuming this is AT&T for your ISP? If so what's the point if you're still rate limited at 5Gbps anyway?
When I hear "dogshit", not having a particular interface does not mean it is so
I have a problem. I just got 300 ^ and 300 v internet installed today. The issue is that I have my computer plugged into the switch (via cat 5e port in the wall) and i am only getting 94 ^ and 94 v. I've tested it with a cable that works perfectly fine for my brother's computer (he is getting 300 ^ and 300 v) and my motherboard is gig speed, can anyone help?
What switch? Sounds like that is limited to 100Mbps or your cable is damaged
some tp link one
give the model number of it tp link makes a lot of different ones
yah, saying "a tp link" is like a mechanic asking what model car and you saying "a red one"
and you're not going through any powerline stuff are you?
you probably have a damaged cable as the switch is gigabit rated
The problem with that is that I tried my brothers cable did not work either, but that same cable that gave me 94 on my computer gave him 300 on his
What's the layout, roughly?
PC > Switch > Router?
Does your brothers PC go through the same layout?
Router > switch > pc
Check in your network card settings and make sure it's set to auto negotiate and not 100Mbps
It's my mobo
The asrock b450 pro4
Gig speed lan port
so is your brother on the switch also or is he on a different port in the router?
But port speed can be manually set by accident, make sure it's not set manually to 100Mbps
Where could i check that?
He is plugged into the switch as mine
FYI all my drivers are updated
ANND my pc is getting 280 ^ and 140 v on wifi
Control Panel > Network & Sharing Center > Change Adapter Settings > Right click on the NIC > Properties > Configure > Advanced
Speed & Duplex is what you're looking for in there
What is nic
Was it set to Auto?
Yea
Try setting to 1.0Gbps, IF it disconnects you set it back to Auto
so the mobo you have has a realtek rtl8111h nic and looking that up seems like other people have had trouble with that moddel on their motherboard
Gig is still giving me 94
You don't have any "gaming" prioritzation, packet prioritization software installed on your machine do you?
No
Any fixes?
If setting to 1.0Gbps manually didn't kick you off the net then it's negotiating fine link wise so something Windows or software related is likely to blame
Im still runnin fine on gig
My mobo was updated about 3 months ago
try reinstalling the lan driver from the asrock website
Will do
im not that good at finding drivers
if you could help that would be nice
you have the b450 pro4 right
b450m pro4
Supports AMD AM4 Socket Ryzen™ 2000, 3000, 4000 G-Series, 5000 and 5000 G-Series Desktop Processors; Supports DDR4 3200+ (OC); 2 PCIe 3.0 x16, 4 PCIe 2.0 x1; AMD Quad CrossFireX™; Graphics Output: HDMI, Display Port, D-Sub; 7.1 CH HD Audio (Realtek ALC892 Audio Codec), ELNA Audio Caps; 6 SATA3, 1 Ultra M.2 (PCIe Gen3 x4), 1 M.2 (PCIe Gen3 x2 & S...
so update the mobo?
it should be the realtek lan driver the global download
so this one?
yeah try that as those are the drivers for your network card
yep
i would check if you have something installed that is messing with the speed tho the realtek nic's are know to have problems
any programs in specific?
have you used some driver updator or optimizor as those are bad
or things that say they optimize your internet
also vpn software could limit speed. tho if you don't have any of those things the easy option is get a pci-e nic that is using a intel chip
I already have a 1000 mbs wifi card in my 16x slot
it's only pci-e x1 you need for a nic to be gigabit
it should work in that yeah
how abt the pcie 3
it should work an any of the pcie ports
how about this card?
i would get one that says it has a intel chip as that is also a realtek one
any reccomendations?
just lok up intel nic and get one with good reviews when buying it on amazon
tho check that the chip on it is made by intel
this is a newer card then the one you linked https://www.amazon.com/1000Mbps-Gigabit-Ethernet-Controller-Converged/dp/B01LYSK23E/
alright
I just wanna run a few more tests to see if my xbox is having the same issues, then ill prob just order that one
thanks for your time btw
I'm probably gonna head to Walmart or Best Buy and see what they have there but I will make sure to get a Intel based nic
Found the most useful tool ever https://broadbandmap.fcc.gov/
It’s an internet and cell data map run by the FCC with speeds, cables, everything
Anyways while I am here I am looking to run ethernet in "my" house, I have a T3200 rn, I plan on putting a wifi 6e router upstairs when I run it with cat5e, do I need to upgrade to a different model, internet is 100 down 52 up , DSl for now (as that's the best available for my area). Do I need a network switch or can I just run the Ethernet from the modem combo into the wall and use the router as a switch? on a side note, does the T3200 auto update or do I need to go run 5 years worth of security patches?
That isn't fully updated because my ISP isn't even on the map...
Actually 2 ISP's that i'm able to use/have are not on that map
Dec 31, 2022 (Last Updated: 7/12/23)
also its US only
¯_(ツ)_/¯
blame the gov ig
Submitting an availability challenge on the new National Broadband Map using a mobile browser.
Lol it's alright, I live in the boonies not like I have any good options anyway
The best option we have is T-Mobile 5G Home Internet and it isn't available because too many people are on it
The other option is, a fiber option, but not fiber to the home, and so many people are on the switch or whatever it's called that packets will drop
Thoughts on this card? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4VH4G1C?tag=realgear0b-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
Unfortunately it is not completely accurate.
I've had to submit corrections.
The place my spouse and I bought had full duplex 1200 Mbps listed from one of the providers on the map...
It was not true at all.
anybody want to help me configure my cisco 2611xm?
- You're much better off asking for assistance by saying what you actually want to achieve with it.
- That thing's a relic, don't expect miracles
Frankly I'd personally consider it to be too old to bother with
Yeah it's only useful to learn ccna on as a homelab not as a daily device
That 2611 was ancient when I got my CCNA 10 years ago, lol
What is this junk ?
nice
dayum
@delicate glenCheck on your pc with ipconfig again
so that its not a admin panel error
I have fixed it manually setting the address
For those who have worked with moca adapters I have a question about setup. I have a splitter running a cable into the adapter and one into the modem. For the Ethernet cable on the adapter, does that plug into the modem or the router
I have a question
If the nic that I just ordered was labled as 10/100/1000, will the nic be able to run a 300 mbs or will it either be 100 mbs or 1000 mbs
If both sides support 1000Base-T it will negotiate to that link speed, which is the max that specific link, but the actual bandwidth over the link can be lower
Router
Only should be one cable out of modem at a typical home setup
Which goes into router
So yes or no?
Nic itself will only run on either 100 or 1000
That's link speed
These days everything should be gig link
So it won't run 300 mbs?
Look that I posted above, if you only have 300mbps server it will work fine. Think of link speed like a pipe, a larger pipe can always carry less water
But not vice-versa
I did a closed loop test so I know the adapters work, but they won't seem to find each other in separate locations. The end point should work as it used to have a cable box plugged in, but does that necessarily mean it'll work for moca or do I need some kind of additional filter
I'm not an expert on moca but you should have a moca filter on coax going into your house so it doesn't go to others, and I think you need moca compatible splitters
There's not much I can do about what comes into the house, but there was a splitter included in the box. I'm using that to split between the modem and the adapter
Obviously there's some issue with the cabling somewhere but I'm not sure where. I'm just fairly certain the coax cable still works at the end point
yeah there are other splitters somewhere else that also would need to support moca
I know where the coax comes into the house so I could check that, but besides that I'm not sure what other splitters there might be
@clear igloo @waxen scroll Looks like I am going to finally be able to implement SR/SRv6...well at least on a small segment of our network
Nice!
I gave up on v6 for now. our switches are WAY too unstable and I just cant afford to introduce another protocol
Yeah I am going to be doing a deeper dive in SRv6. I'm familiar with the basics but I need to make sure it's not going to cause havoc with some of our platforms on older code
Hello, does anyone know of a device that is the size of those stick size PC’s and has Ethernet on both ends, preferably something that is a dedicated device for VPN. Basically I want to plug Ethernet into it and then give out a VPN’d Ethernet connection.
what you basically need is a tiny router with VPN capability, never used this so I can't say how good it is https://store.gl-inet.com/collections/brume-2-gl-mt2500-mt2500a-security-gateway/products/brume-2-gl-mt2500-vpn-security-gateway
Brume 2 is a lightweight and powerful VPN Gateway that runs on OpenWrt v21.02 operating system. It is compactly designed to host a VPN server at home, or run SD-WAN (Site-to-Site) for small and medium-sized enterprises. Product Description: Runs on OpenWrt 21.02: Brume 2 runs fast VPN speed which allows you to access y
although at price you could just get a router
like this one https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3
Yeah I was looking for something smaller, again like the form factor of those intel compute sticks but that first one looks perfect, thanks 🙏
This is my company’s server+nas. It is in a basement where you get 0 cell signal. Yes, that is a rack mount server being used as a desk. Yes, I hate it with every ounce of my being.
Quit and work at a fortune 500
needs cable managment and it will be good to go
Just ask here and someone will respond
don't ask if you can ask. Just ask your question. If someone can help you, great
and I thought my company was jank
we had tower servers on a plastic shelf about to break in half
it has since been replaced
Lmao
They plan on moving it
But their plan is to literally move it to the next room over, which is possibly worse
It’s a horrible dusty basement
And by dusty I mean dusty
I don’t really have that option rn
Guys is there a way to boost my wifi speeds for free? (preferably on my pc). I got really low speeds, more of upload.
there is
I have that
Wdym? like who I'm with?
what you pay for
its simple as connect one end to router and other to pc
Oh im not sure my dad does it lol, I'm only 14
but something around 50 pretty sure
if it's DSL, then that sounds about right
Really the best way to boost speeds is to upgrade plans. 100mbps plans are rather cheap nowadays, you’ll want to check upload though
look at the modem
okkk
and the cable coming in
Ok
but there isn't much you can do unless you pay more
thats toughh
Actually what I said depends on what country you live in
Yeah I'm from Canada
If you aren't directly next to the router, getting 41 on a 50 plan is in no way unusual
The upload being much lower is just part of your internet plan
My router is like in a the room beside me
got it
Yeah like through a wall?
yes
Yeah it's pretty normal
Alrighty
Rip
For the Canadians, I am with bell
^
That's what everyone says should happen in practice. But the reality I've experience and from what I hear from others is, the devices constantly latch on to the first signal and are stubborn about jumping to another signal.
(As also stated in Techquickie)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW4wT7gob7s
Honestly it's not that big of a place, but since I can't afford to re-wire the place with higher quality cabling and/or set up a mesh kit? I'd rather just get a good quality router for gaming that has better range than my current TP-Link AC4000 (Archer 20).
Problem is I can't find reliable info on router ranges... hell, most product pages don't even list the range.
The server or the shelf?
Jank unclear, need more specifics.
The problem is range is highly subjective.
Geometry of the rooms, materials of the walls, etc. all have very large impacts on range.
So, anything I advertise is... probably just something people are going to get pissed off at me about when it doesn't work as advertised in location X.
the shelf, it bending heavily
range is also dependent on client device, Tx is only as good as Rx kinda
Does anyone know any routers that have quad core and less than 200 quid?
My poor old asus router is dying with its two cores 😪
Wifi 5 or wired 100mbps?
Wdym
Why the need for more cores
Just need a device with more performance
Test and see
Oh I meant would it be better to game on which config?
Wired is always better
But wdym by wired 100 mbps
Do you just mean ur internet plan is 100m or do you mean a 100m ethernet connection
My wired port is only 100 the gigabit port is used for a switch at the other side of the house
ISP provided router 😂
Well if it's only 100 you could technically get more bandwidth over wifi
Get a gigabit nic
Yes, that's why I asked if they mean 100 mbps ethernet, but there's zero reason to use that in 2023
since gigabit is so cheap
I’m thinking of just adding a switch at that gigabit port to split
How would that help?
One of the ports is gigabit so have that connect to new switch then connect the existing cable to the switch and move the cable in 100 to the switch
I got an asus router that has both cores maxing out when two or more devices are just watching something
So if i was gonna upgrade to a wifi 6 router, I would want more cores?
Number of cores doesn't really matter
You just need a more powerful router, not something with more cores
Something capable of the bandwidth
Anyone ever use a PC fan to cool a modem/router with power over USB/USB-C? Trying to wire an HP FAN that has green/blue for data and yellow/black for power (Google images), to USB-C which looks like power should be black and red, but it's not coming on.
Trying to see if adding cooling to the TMHI 5G modem would help potential overheating it's likely doing.
If you want to dumbly power UP a fan with hacks like that you need a DC fan and not a pwm one
So that you can control speed through voltage
Usually fans start spinning at 5V and go up to 12V at full speed
If it's pwm it's switching between 12V and 0V at a certain frequency and the higher it is the faster it spins
I got a gigabit package from my ISP, and the router is capable of 1600Mbps (Asus RT-AC86U). It has a dual core and the bandwidth is higher than the ISP, so would I just have to find a router with a lot higher bandwith like 5400Mbps?
i personally just cut off a end of a worn micro usb cable and solder it directly to fan wires
That number is probably not max throughput, just marketing junk (maximum wifi bandwidth on all bands)
Can I use M.2 -> PCIe x4 adapter to use it for my NIC?
I mean
Will it work just like normal full-size PCIe slot?
can i have multiple routers from same company, using same wireless settings ? i mean SSID and Password + Encryption, and they will work as one large covered area ?
you'll need WDS Bridge feature on each of them
if you mean to connect them together wirelessly
What do y'all think of this plan?
The powerline is on the same breaker and the rooms are next to each other so the run is very short
PLC will be bottleneck for the switch behind the end devices
Do you think I could still get 600ish Mbps?
no i connect all of them with ethernet cable to their port 1 so it works like AP
i hope it will work 😄
and i guess if the wifi details are all the same devices will switch to better signal aka closer AP ?
I don't think so
they will not automatically switch, the client will connect to whatever has the best signal as soon as it sees, and it will only switch off once that signal gets too weak
there are special 802.11 features that enable roaming, but they arent common on things called routers
you'll get about 50 Mbps at best
but still
it won't be anywhere near 600 Mbps
specially not common on devices such from year 2014
if its called a router, it probably doesnt have any of the 802.11 roaming extensions
thats usually reserved for AP's
its called modem router (Annex B) 😄
wouldn't be better if he'd go with some 5 GHz mesh and then connected switch to one of APs, especially in American house with paper-thick walls?
probably, but powerline is cheaper and only barely slower
i have xDSL connection... if i pay for 50/5 plan.. is there a logical explanation why i only get 30/5 ? (there is provider with 100/20 i was wondering what bandwidth i would get there...)
the further you are from the ISP, the lower your speed is with dsl, may also want to call them to make sure its working properly
I live in Finland. It gets -25°C in the winter so we have thick wall
yea im in the same boat atm trying to find a mesh system that will be good enough for my house, due to it's thick brick walls and the fact it's a long house im stuck between a rock and a hard place on 2 different mesh systems
can highly recommend running wires to each ap, it works
that would be annoying, my house isn't square it's more of a rectangle
you will however generally have a better time with wireless mesh than powerline
i mean i was gonna wire one of the mesh nodes together anyway but the 3rd one would have to wireless
ye and thats fine, you will definetly have to play with the exact location and rotation of the second and 3rd ones to get the best signal tho
im stuck between the TP deco X20 2 pack or TP link s7 3 pack, both are on sale
but i feel like 2 wouldn't be enough even if they are wifi 6
tbh you can get shockingly good coverage with just 2 or even just 1
my house is like 1200 - 1300 square feet which to most houses that mesh is targeted in is small but having barely no internet in my kitchen and garden is a pain
another thing to consider is the mesh devices often have really fancy directional antennas
oof not the ones im looking at
so you can often get better coverage with a single mesh ap than a classical insectoid
nah i mean if it has antennas poking out, its not fancy
the fancy stuff you cant see the antennas
yea my friend recommended me something earlier but i don't have 700 dollars to spend
yes
although you want only 1 router
other can be Access Point
that way it's the L2 network
hmm i think i answered my own problem
I assume modem is also router right?
https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/wireless/business-100-series-access-points/business-access-point-ds.html
this dood is highly rated, and its a relatively long range unit for around $130
pretty sure it is mesh supported
like they say better to not cut too short or you will have more problems
and I wouldn't reccomend a raspberry pi as a firewall
i'll probably go with the S7 AC1900 as i want wifi in my garden
i get about 1.5 down and 0.4 up when im in my garden
even if i just get 50 up and down i'd be happy, if anything this just to shut up people in the house when they complain about having no wifi
A modem is a modem. Firewall acts as router in this case
how much does a dream router cost in your region 🤷
i suspect you could get alot more out of a single udr than you might think
yeah I wouldn't reccomend the pi
I often ask since people say modem but they mean modem/router combo
a raspberry pi is barely enough to be a dns server, and it can handle being a dhcp server for a relatively small network
actual routing? nah
Well then I don't really have a choice than to use the really old modem as a router as well
Which will be a security vulnerability
you can throw the dns and dhcp server on the pi to speed things up slightly
why not get a router?
Power consumption
A dedicated router doesn't consume much power
you can get like a HEX
not a fan of routerOS but it's descent enough
HEX consumes 10 W max
Also money is an issue
The power consumption is an issue cause of not having much money
fair, although the HEX is pretty cheap
Not "using stuff I have lying around" cheap
Dumb question, if I configured router A to pass IP through to router B, would I be unable to access router A's settings?
are you talking about a modem/router in bridge mode?
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ATT gateway, so not technically bridge mode since that's not an option, just "IP passthrough"
ah yeah, so it depends (I don't have experience with ATT internet), in theory it should be possible if the IP and subnet of Router A and B don't conflict
and depending on how router B does routing
That would probably be it actually...
Let me double check and change it over
looking for suggestions on cisco switches that are gigabit, fanless, sfp port is a plus and ios cli for a home lab. I know, I know, im looking for the "holygrail" of switches but my search continues only because the only thing I can find on this is 5 year old forum posts.
Why specifically Cisco, to learn CCNA? @opaque cargo
@kind pivot yes to learn CCNA and to use Cisco in my home lab that way I can become more familiar with the CLI on a daily basis
What's your budget and how many ports do you require?
If you just want to learn the CLI pickup a ISR4K, Cat 3850, etc. for anything basic and advanced
Or even just do EVE-NG or CML
Is an ISR4k fanless?
+1 for EVE-NG or CML
idk, I look at physical Cisco stuff and go "I can fill a lab for what that would cost me" and use something else, the affordable stuff is generally museum pieces.
ISPs here in Australia mostly have PoI speeds <10 gigabit ($6 a megabit and then you pay for NNI ports on top lol) so frankly Cisco's finest are not really necessary for industry :P
Please enjoy the wholesale prices, which are not NNI inclusive
Virtual lab is the only way. Physical labs to have their hardware/electricity costs, but the larger issue is scale as you can only lab so much to get a full picture on a handful of equipment.
I agree
I'd much rather this than chuck a grand or two at an ISR4k and have a homelab of precisely one router
Yep. Just purchase a single year, download the images and toss them in EVE.
Finally after 5 years of waiting, fiber was installed yesterday and I can't believe my eyes.
The 1000 mbs ^ and the 1000 mbs v tempted me, but this is honestly enough.
hey yall, i just switched isps and have a 2 gigabit plan but my mobo's lan only goes up to 1 gigabit
is there any good 2/2.5 gigabit network cards i should go for?
i found a lot on amazon but i don't know which ones are reliable
I just ordered a gig speed one from 10gtek on amazon, and it should be arriving in about an hour. They also have a 2.5 Gig card available, so I'll let you know my thoughts on the one I got.
alrighty
This is the one i got
34 usd for the i210 and 18.99 for the 2.5G model
Ah, that's it. It's a reaTek rj-45 port instead of a intel rj-45
Just look up "2.5 gig intel nic" on amazon
Intel chips are really reliable
for some reason i'm only really finding gigabit nics
or 2.5 gig that are expensive
Ltt did a vid on one
I only found thishttps://a.co/d/6BFQifh
its intel and not overly expensive like the other listings
Well if I was gonna get a 2.5 gig nic, that would probably be the one
Good reviews
Not insanely expensive
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Linus explains the advantage of 2.5Gb networking over gigabit- even if your ISP is still the bottleneck.
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alright thanks
i found a i225-v network card here and just bought it
brand/company doesn't really matter right
the chip is the most important?
and seller being reliable ofc
Sorry for the late response
As long as it is an intel based chip, it should be really reliable
Whats ur budget?
cant remember...in poe budjeting is it recommended that you leave 10% or 20% of the budjet left over?
I tried this, by what Google images says, yellow to red, black to black, should be powering the fan but I get nothing.
get separate router and access points
How far you need the wifi to reach(house/apartment sq ft).Need wifi 6/6e?
hey question how can i fix my ping i get a stable ping while but then sometimes it goes high randomly
Are you using wifi
Are there any cons for using SFP+ Switch/NICs? I haven't needed anything besides 1Gb until now, just because I want to run a few NDI from a few machines to a server using OBS.
Also to have a server for large file sharing.
if you need to go back and forth its rather expensive
I have three ISP and have to use Speedify or Peplink Speedfusion, lol. Probably a bad idea then.
Very rural
🤷 that shouldnt be a problem?
just need to be aware of all of the devices you are plugging in
Internet comming from three other small 1gb switches, all going to three other PCs.
as long as all 3 pcs have sfp, theres no problem
or just swap 1 switch at a time
Three 1Gb NIC in each pc already.
Any Windows compatibility issues or network conflicts?
windows cant tell the difference
there are compatibility issues with specific chips but that shouldnt be too hard to avoid
intel and melanox work great on windows
and yea it doesnt matter if the connector is rj45 or sfp, the issues are the same regardless (for the chips that have issues)
Cisco, Brocade, NetApp, Dell, Arista, Juniper. Anything good/bad out there?
ah big money switches
be aware that some of those brand suppport 3rd party sfp modules and some dont
you sure you cant go cheaper for example mikrotik or netgear
anyone not been able to install ubuquiti unfi? its kinda pissing me off, ive got the latest version of java download but its saying I need Java 11, but saying it found a java version on my pc...I downloaded 11 but it still wont work.
Yeah, I just had someone tell me to check ebay for switches that companies have used and dumped due to upgrading.
🤷 it just requires a bit more research
definetly avoid netapp tho imo unless you get a real good deal, they tend to be very proprietary everything
Thanks for the help. I think a couple hundred bucks may be worth the time that I might spend on those from ebay. 😆
well how much do you need?
mikrotik is often cheaper tho ive more been researching 100g generation stuff recently
Did you check for other java versions that might need uninstalled and reboot the pc? I remember Java always being a pain when I worked corporate years ago.
Is CCA sufficient for PoE(+)? Or do you really need CU Ethernet cables?
Most network administrators won't even consider CCA for plain data cabling due to its many caveats. Not actually legal for cabling here in Australia for many use cases.
If you're asking if it'll work instead of if it's a good idea... it'll depend on current draw, run length, wire gauge and cable quality.
You can get away with a fair bit of bullshit if the runs aren't too long and needed current is low.
I mean if you want to create an insulator then it's fine?
Hey, so I have a small homelab with 2 servers and 1 laptop (which I use has my main PC). Should I go for 10 Gbps or 2.5 Gbps LAN?
Yea I just read some stuff about it having many downsides, and not being legal in some places, I’ll go with CU. Thank you for help
Depends on your needs, other bottlenecks and your budget.
I doubt you really need 10GE, but maybe if you’re a video editor or move around large files for fun.
You’ve to make sure your 2 servers and laptop can handle 10GE Ethernet and file transfers, if you only have gigabit Ethernet cards and a gigabit internet connection, you’ll have to get some better network cards first. Or maybe your CPU’s or drives can’t even handle those speeds.
If the price difference between cat 5e/6 (1GE) and cat 6a/7 (10GE) isn’t too big, and you’re planning on utilizing the extra speed from time to time, or want the other benefits from S/FTP (more shielding), you might as well.
So right now, I'm using Gigabit Ethernet for all the networking, I don't often edit videos, but I would want to edit it from my network storage instead of my PC, since I'm using more and more storage on it.
Right now, I have 3 Raid-Z1 500 GB HDDs, but when I'll switch to higher speed, I'll probably upgrade it to 2 TB Mirror HDDs.
I often use VMs for testing purposes, or just for services that needs another OS to run on
Do I have to get SSDs instead of HDDs? Can laptops handle 10 GbE (mine has got Thunderbolt if it helps)?
Would SFP+ be better than RJ45 for my usage?
I don’t know much about NAS or server hardware, but I if I were you I would look into what your current bottlenecks are, it’s either the Ethernet speed, the HDD’s, your server CPU, or your laptop
SFP+ is just expensive and something that’s only useful in datacenter in my option
Unless you need the 500-600 meters SFP offers, instead of max 100m RJ45 does
I'm using CAT. 6 RJ45 cables for all my Gigabit network, I heard that it's possible to make a 10 GbE network with those but only in short distances (I only got 3-5 meters cables, so I think It's good)
So the bottleneck is more about the switch and the cards, they are at 1 Gbps
I would just look at how much 2.5 (or 5 if it’s around the same price) would cost and how much 10 would cost
And make a decision on that
10gbe is still relatively new and hella expensive
10gbe switches can easily cost 200-300 euros, for basic models
(But don’t get me wrong, I’m currently in the process of putting 10gbe in my own house)
I found a QNAP switch for 200€ with 2x 10 Gbps ports and 4x 2.5 Gbps, and a Microtik switch with 4x 10Gbps (but SFP+) ports and 1x Gbps port for 134€.
2.5 Gbps cards are usually around 25€, and 10 Gbps cards are around 100€
Which do you think is the best? I don't really know what to go for
And SFP+ to RJ45 adapters are also expensive
The microfilm switch will require 4 10gbe rj45 modules
Exactly lol
If you want 10gbe you’ll at least need a switch that can connect all of them to 10gbe
So at least 3 10gbe ports
Or you use 1 less often
But I would look at your needs, if you really need it or not 🤷🏼♂️
And maybe look at eBay for second hand switches
I would at least need 1 adapter for my laptop
I will look at it, thanks
And for your server(s)
Idk if they already have 2.5/10gbe network cards
No, I can buy a SFP+ card instead of RJ45
but for laptop, it's not possible
all of our fiber is multimode rn
Yah, the only thing for why MM is more expensive is they don't sell well so the company is charging more or producing fewer so it costs them more
or at least that's all I can think of that's making any sense, lol
Speakin' of fibre, does anyone have a contact at Infinite Cables? I never got a response back on an inquiry to sales@
Question
How do I change my routers default login ip
I’m trying to chanit on opnsense
I need to change it from 192.168.1.1
Do you want to change the IP address of the router, or the IP range for all devices on the network?
I have two routers on the network
Both will have the same remote login address
I think
"To set the LAN IP, go to Interfaces ‣ [LAN], set “IPv4 Configuration Type” to “Static”, and under “Static IPv4 configuration”, set “IPv4 address” to 192.168.1.1 and the subnet dropdown to “24”. Then click Save."
So within the "Interfaces>LAN" section, basically.
Ill tell you if it works
Im setting up my own router downstairs
Internet keeps going out
Yup nice catch, can't have two devices with the same IP, especially routers!
Yeah
Make sure only one is doing NAT if you want to avoid problems
The one that is connected to modem
Both of them are connected to the modem
With a independent switch
Are you sure modem is not also a router
Nope
💀
Access point spits out wifi, a home routers main purpose is NAT, to map the 1 public IP you get to your LAN
Your setup wouldn't work unless ISP really messed up on their end (by providing more than 1 IP) or it's a modem/router combo
Unless you're behind CGNAT and your ISP is handing out multiple private IPs per account but even that's unlikely
Most home wifi routers can act as an AP
Instead of plugging into wan port, plug into lan
Just turn off DHCP
And make IP within your subnet, but something that's not .1 and won't conflict
Oh man how did I get a certification in networking
Granted it was like 4/5 years ago
Let me think about this for a minute
Oh god I forgot the admin password for the router login
I’ll just return everything where it was
hahaha this is a whole experience
Who can help me i have a problem with my pfsense i have opend the ports in pfsense for my servers i can connect using the local ip address but i cant connect using the public ip and the server is running my vriend can connect and the ports are open how can i fix this issue
You don't connect using your public IP when on the local network
Unless you enable hairpinning but you don't need to. Forwarding works, just connect via the LAN
is this the reason why my bungeecord setup cant work the proxy is on a server offside and the game servers are here internaly
most likely, yah
and if i enable hairpinning that it wil work and i can connect using external ip if i opend the ports
In theory, yes it should work
Under System > Advanced > Firewall & NAT
Check the boxes for:
Enable automatic outbound NAT for Reflection
Enable NAT Reflection for 1:1 NAT
NAT Reflection mode for port forwards - Set this to Pure NAT if not already
Okey thx for the explenation this was a problem i walked into for 2 weeks nou this was real helpfull
it worked perfect the page loadend instand and the servers are online for my with my external ip
Awesome 😄
I got a ZTE MF289F today and my plan was to set it to bridging mode and use my ASA 5506-X as a router. I have my ASA configuration below with what feels like something that I should hide hidden with a string of #. GigabitEthernet1/4 to GigabitEthernet1/7 are just replaced with a // ... just to make the text file more readable, those are the same as 1/3 and 1/8. I set my laptop's IP to be 192.168.69.100 and connected it to GigabitEthernet1/2. I get a connection to the router but I can't connect to the internet.
I hope someone here would have the know-how to help in this situation.
When you do "show route" (or show ip route) I forget if the ASA takes different command for that. Do you have a default route going out the WAN?
Ah, that might do it 😄
Now I gotta setup a DHCP server so my WAP will actually work as intended
Damn my WAP sucks
With a cable I'm getting 192Mbps down and 48Mbps up. Over WiFi I'm getting 40Mbps down and 48.5Mbps up
Hi folks, I'm in the market for a new router primarily so I can play games from a room that doesn't have easy access to run an ethernet cable. Obv the best solution is to use an ethernet cable, but I am renting my apartment and as such can't afford to run a cable through my apartment to my home office.
A couple of pointed questions I have:
- Are mesh routers worth it/ is there any significant additional latency incurred by having a mesh network (my apt is around 1k sqft, so this looks like it might be a bit overkill)?
- What features should I be looking for (from my research, maybe Wifi 6 + tuneable QOS, but I'm not really sure what impacts "gaming" performance other than the pure latency overhead of having a wireless connection)?
best way would be MoCa if you have coax in your house
second best would be powerline
then comes varous wifi mesh solutions
- this video applies to you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0vy1VzFbf8
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Colton's WiFi is just like his work ethic: it SUCKS! How can we solve this problem? Ethernet? Maybe, but why worry about running new cables when he's got plenty in his walls. M...
then after you use MoCa/powerline to get ethernet to your room you can get access point or router in ap mode and a switch to improve wifi coverage around your room
Much agreed. I never consistently got more than 75 Mbps over ethernet-over-powerline adapters. Moca should be much more consistent, and error free.
I got 15 mbps literally in the same room
could be bad quality wiring or 2 outlets are connected to diffrent breakers so signal need to go from room to breaker box and back
Yeah idk i never got any better than that
hm
it could be bad adapter
25-50m cable and just lay it on the floor
anyone know of low-cost 2.5GbE managed switches, ideally say $100 or less?
i have a bunch of TP-Link unmanaged 2.5GbE switches and they've been great, but i'm beginning to do things that need VLANs :(
Unless you get STUPID lucky on ebay? None exist that I know of unless I missed one on Serve The Home's roundup
Cheapest I see is a Hasivo S600W-5GT-SE which is about $125 on AliExpress
i found that on Taobao for 555 CNY: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=725287574980
not sure how much i can trust this tbh.. altho reviews seem OK
I've forgotten what low-cost even looks like. I work mostly with Cisco and Check Point gear 😝
I heard you want to look at this model. You'll need a smart license for that 😛
Oof, don't get me started... We borrowed one of their Industrial Compute units loaded up with CyberVision software and licenses to scan and map our manufacturing enviroment. The tech is cool. The tech is damned cool. It saw every PLC, who it was communicating with, vulnerabilities, unsafe coding practises... everything.
... and then I get a sneaking suspicion. We never discussed price, they wanted us to have a look first.
... because the first shot of Heroin is always free....
Haha, yah
Some of that stuff is wicked cool but then you see the price and it's just like "do I REALLY REALLY need it?"
We got the price and landed on "We really REALLY don't" :p
I really wish we would actually simplify the license stuff at the very least, it's so freaking complicated sometimes. Let alone look at decent prices for stuff
We could hire two full-time security analysts for the annual cost of monitoring 650 devices :p
yikes! was that with discount too or just base price?
That was with discount. The only way you ever pay base price for Cisco is if both Cisco and your vendor truly hates you. Being a nobody they never heard of before gets you close to 50% off :p
Yah, nobody pays base price, lol
It's like 30% discount minimum if you're super hated but if you talk to a VAR then the discount gets better, lol
To be fair, they have gotten a bit better with their licensing. After all, they're not the gods they once were, they do feel HPE Aruba breathing down their necks.
So now they're merely very expensive, not extortionate.
Yah, there are a lot of companies breathing down their necks these days. Licensing has definitely gotten better but the smart stuff is still irritating depending on what you're looking at
I'm just glad I'm not sales most of the time 
I'm fairly happy just being an operations monkey. I've spent the last five weeks in hell, covering the Operations Manager role while he had a much-needed vacation.
And I pretty much just laugh loudly when the slavetraders call and want to recruit me for a Service Delivery Manager type role. Man, that is the ultimate masochist position.
Being under fire from everyone. The customer, the account manager, all the project managers, the consultants... Trying to consolidate that mess.
Yah, lol, sales gets a bad rap but managing all that crap that some of the customer delivery managers have to face is just shudder
To be fair, half the shit they face is because sales got creative and overpromised.
Oh 1000% true
Got an interesting discussion coming up... trying to get the customer to go for a license upgrade.
ooof, those usually aren't any fun best case and worst case they're a nightmare
The features they and the seller discussed are at the very core of Cisco DNA, the AI insight and enforcement stuff, but when it came bid time they wanted the price down and went for DNA Essentials :p
So, they've basically got an expensive monitoring box that does nice wifi maps.
That sounds very familiar
Now they want the stuff they discussed but didn't buy 😂
Reminds me of some of the sales people I'm working with. They booked some engagements without accounting for scoping them (you know, actually getting requirements for testing) and then scream when things don't get done in the time they scoped
And of course, the customers CIO isn't a complete idiot. "So, you guys want us to pay you more for features that make your life easier? Why? We're already paying you to deliver <service requirements>, seems like you should be the one eating this!". Well, he's not entirely wrong.
yup, that sounds about right and to the CIO's point they aren't completely wrong as you said
Should have scoped it better to begin with 😛
Our current sales weenie is pissed at the entire thing. He's one of the sensible ones. He never promises stuff without talking to the techs first, but he inherited this mess from the previous fly-by-night sales jockey.
You know the type, new company every two to three years as they've burnt all bridges and pulled all the moves they can, so they gotta move on to a new company and repeat...
Yup, I know a few of those people
Or they get fired up the corporate ladder if everyone else isn't lucky enough -.-
We call it the military advancement strategy. Promoted to a position where you can no longer cause damange :p
Oh there's always a way to cause damage, it's just a different kind of damage, hahaha
We don't have many of those where I work, but holy hell there's a lot of Peter Principle going around.
People who got promoted one step too far, and instead of being the competent lower level managers they were they're now completely ineffectual middle managers...
Yah, usually the problem sorts itself out but every once in a while they crop up.
On a different note, at least your customer's CIO isn't trying to manage the architecture of a new data center putting their bias into everything to benefit one vendor over another. Especially in a large company where they have no business meddling that far down
We've got a sort of strange dynamic there. We're the customers partner and they trust our recommendations fully. All they demand is that we don't have vendor bias either. They don't care what it says on the box or what the details of the solution is. They have a budget, they have a set of goals they want to reach, and they trust us to reach it for them.
They have two criteria that override price: Security and interoperability.
Stuff has to play together, and it has to be safe.
Yah, having a budget and finding the best solution to fit in that box reasonably well is perfectly cool. Trying to shoehorn in a solution that doesn't fit and then changing requirements to advantage one vendor over another really grinds my gears
It needs to work and work well for the given requirements in practice not just on a data sheet or from a sales person's word 😛
It's like Prophet Sebastian says, never buy a product based on future promises, buy on what it actually does today :p
And seeing is believing. Many sales peoples hopes and dreams have been crushed in a Proof of Concept run 😄
You don't need no PoC, just trust me bro!
Heh... yeah, that's the sort of talk that gets the customers purchasing manager looking for his chicken wire and trawl weights :p
Does windows change anything else other than gateway, subnet, dns and dhcp server when switching from static and dhcp? I have two PC's for testing, one static IP and can connect to a site to site vpn, the other with static ip does not, switch it to dhcp it works. Windows firewall off. Any other hidden changes to look for?
DNS suffix perhaps?
So I got a second TP-Link router (Archer C54) to connect up in my room. Used the tether App to set it up as a 2nd access point. It's connected directly to my other router down across the house. But now my speed on my computer is stuck around 90MB per second or so instead of what it was, which was 350+
Connected via a Cat6 Cable, so not sure why it's limiting my speed so hard
@ionic gorge Since the VPN is site to site, I assume there's nothing on the actual computers? Then it's just a matter of communication between the subnets. If the gateway and mask is correct you should be getting IP traffic. Try pinging a known host on the other side by its IP address (provided it does reply to ping requests). That should get you one step closer in troubleshooting.
Also, check if Windows marked the connections public or private.
The Archer C54 only has 100mbit wired networking. You're getting the expected speeds.
Yup....fell for the marketing on the box. Fuckin damnit.
I had to read the spec sheet twice to make sure I was reading it right. Who makes an AC router with 100mbit ports? Scummy marketing indeed.
I hope you bought it somewhere with a decent return policy?
Local Walmart. I live in TN and there's not many places to buy electronics around here. Most people still think computers are the devils creation.
Well, then you should at least be able to get your money back and get something fit for purpose.
Yeah, just have to sort through them. Find what's available at my store, then look up the ACTUAL product page cause Walmarts page isn't displaying the speed of the ports...
Even on their own site TP-link tried pulling a fast one. The screenshots say "FastEthernet" which is another word for 10/100 but is likely to fool some users. Have to open the hardware specs at the bottom for actual numbers.
Setup:
Wall -> Modem -> Router (All located across the house)
Family computer is located in same room as Modem and Router.
Cat5e ethernet cable from Router -> Across house to my room -> Into computer
Wifi sucks up there. So best option is to add an access point.
Thus Cat5e cable will be run into a router in this room instead of back of computer.
That being said, can anyone tell me the differences between these 2?
https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-ax1800/#overview
https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-a9/#overview
Just need one that won't throttle the connection to my computer when I reconnect it via another short ethernet cable. But that also gives off good wifi so that GF can game on laptop in the same room.
definitely not gonna spend that much for my home network
i mostly deal with Arista and Cisco at work
@cosmic estuary thanks for the reply. I can't ping anything the other side. But can on any other pc. Vpn is on my main network which is private. Unless windows someone can filter the vpn traffic to public?
My surface won't connect to my internet. I have a hidden network. On every device I try it connects and has internet but for my surface when it connects it still says connected without internet. On my router Iogin it says it's connected but nothings going through the surface. Any ideas?
How do the web portals on routers know what devices are routers and which ones aren’t? Do they only utilize the MAC and TTL for that? I’m using a VPN anyway so TTL is out of the question. I changed my MAC but I don’t know for sure if it’s not detected anymore. I live in an apartment with shared internet, but they don’t want us connecting our own routers for some security reason. Pretty sure everyone in this entire building is all on one LAN, so ironically this would be more secure.
Your own router would give you NAT and some additional security, yes, but for every end user doing it right there's some idiot plugging to one of the LAN ports instead of the WAN port. That causes all sorts of problems with additional DHCP servers etc.
If you have a spare PC, I'd do a pfSense box or something between you and the shared network. Unless someone really went looking they wouldn't spot it as a router.
Whereas with a regular router you'd find them with a simple port scan, checking MAC vendor data.
Generally they don't. Some providers do check TTLs but you can hide that easily by incrementing it with a firewall rule. If anyone's using MAC OUI's to detect routers that's news to me - sounds difficult or impossible to me to do properly.
You can't see the MAC of any device behind a router, it's lost when routing occurs.
-Well I say that but IPv6 uses it now to make your address.
@cosmic estuary thanks for the message for support. It was a routing table issue. Seemed to have changed it's default nic to route down. Working now
what is the best mainstream router on the market? im looking for smt that can cover 1500m/sq with good speeds.
around 75-100 devices
You want at least 1 or 2 dedicated APs, Unifi, Meraki Go, Aruba InstaOn, TP-Link Omada all come to mind as having capable APs
I thought stuff like the Omada were made for businesses
I’m just tryna supply my house with consistent, good speeds
Basic stuff like gaming, streaming, downloads and office work
Only issue is the amount of devices
If you're going to have 75 to 100 wireless devices you need something that's not a pile of junk that can handle that many clients
Most of your Asus/TP-Link/etc all in one router/switch/AP models choke to death when nearing 30 devices on wifi
I can probably sort through all the devices and remove excess stuff
A dedicated AP is much better anyway, larger coverage area and whatnot and all those I listed don't have per-month licenses or anything
Can I not just buy smt that connects many different devices like washing machines, fridges, CCTV cameras then use that device to connect to the router
So then it is only listed as 1 device
Why? Why not buy a single dedicated AP that connects to a router that can handle everything properly?
If you need multiple APs a Omada or Unifi can handle seamless roaming too
Rn I’m using my ISP router and I’m getting 20mbp up and down
An EAP670 is about $150 or a EAP610 is about $85
Either of those would crush the requirements you have
Do they have mesh capabilities
Within the same AP, yes
But a single AP doesn't need that, with multiple you roam between them seamlessly with the same network ID
ISP Router > PoE injector or power to wall > AP
Setup the same SSID (wireless network) name and password on the AP
Disable wifi on your ISP router
Done
Ty I’ll order the EAP670
Yah, that would be an amazing improvement from what you have and is pretty simple to setup 🙂
btw this is kinda off topic but what is the difference between a home router and a gaming router
One is a router and one is a router that has the word "gamer" in the name and a higher pricetag because of that
Ah
Yah it's all marketing junk
Bc I noticed the EAP690 has ax11000 in its name and it reminder me of the ‘gaming’ router
Ah, the AX11000 is part of the marketing
It can, in theory, do 11Gbps of combined wireless throughput across all bands in perfect condition
Pretty much at that pricepoint yes
There is WifI 6E but unless you have 6E capable devices and want to drop around $500 for one it's not really worth it right now
What is the product name for tp links wifi 6e
EAP690E
Damn nobody acknowledged my help question
this isnt tech support
But it's networking
And it's network related..logic?
It's OK if you don't know either
So surely changing my MAC will stop it from being detected? And since all the connected devices are going through a VPN, they would not be detected?
MAC is basically irrelevant, though a full tunnel via a VPN will mask the devices behind it, no TTL mangling required.
A lot know what the the router that they connect back to are. So if you aren't there router, your are a client. (Hint, you are a client and you aren't going to win)
Depends on the device, I have an RT-AX86U with an AX58U wired aimesh node that handles 58-60 devices fine. Admittedly, ~70% are IoT on 2.4ghz and all high performance are either wired through a catalyst or on 5ghz but saying "all consumer network if junk" is a bit over generalized
"Most of"
I didn't say every consumer router was junk, I'm sure some newer ones might handle things better but I gave up on trying that long ago especially since most of them never get firmware updates long term nor (in my experience) are nearly as reliable long term
Is that client count on a SINGLE RT unit?
I just don't see the point for most tech minded people to bother though since a single dedicated AP can usually crush what a general AIO unit could handle, under load especially.
The main router routes all that load. The aimesh node only services like 13 clients
Iot can be good or bad too depending on the technology
I'm not talking handling LAN > WAN NAT load, that's super simple these days to handle and track for most consumer devices even, I'm talking number of wireless clients and placing a load on a single AIO unit over wifi over long periods of time
IOT is thankfully low traffic, unless it's part of a botnet or doing something else malicious 😛
Higher-end consumer network gear works. I do enterprise architecture in my 9-5 and don't want to deal with it when I get home. COULD I build a checkpoint/Cisco stack for my home? Absolutely. Would it run well without a team managing it? Nope
The concern about updating is why I usually recommend Asus merlin
Hi guys, i'm having some questions and problems due my network. Is really my network or i'ts just the S.O? I mean, in games no problems but is in youtube and google search that crowds super fast
What do you have?
I got 600MB/s in download and upload
It's never your bandwidth
ISP supplied router?
Yes, it's from the official company
What carrier?
Here in spain we got a lot of companies and suppliers
Company : MasMovil | Supplier : Yoigo
#1 don't use cat7
I don't got other cable
Get a standard cable and try that
I mean, I only got that one and the problem is that sometimes here in spain the prices are up in the sky, and my router is like 10 metre of me so I'm using an extensor
Order a different cable, cat6 is plenty fine. The extension could be causing problems
Or the cat7 could be causing an issue
Cat6 is good to 100 meters
What if I try with Cat 6A?
Why do you want to waste money?
I don't want to waste, but I need the maximum performance that I just bought.
You are talking about 600mbps, not 10gb
I mean, i want the full 600Mbp/s
But sometimes i think that I just have like 100 or 120mbps, so it's like i'm wasting my money with a service
The service that has 600mbps when i'm receiving 100 or 120
So I pay like 50/60€ each month.. So i'm wasting my money truly faster
Cat6 can run 10gig to 50meters.
You are talking about spending 2x the cost for a stiff ugly cable
Cat7 is a shielding cable that sometimes doesn't always seat properly in sockets. Using an extension doesn't help either
Cat7 requires TERA connectors to be "in spec" but should be avoided anyway as you mentioned already
Depends on your setup and needs
There are scenarios that could be used for that you could get something cheaper for
@clear igloo
Free shipping on a UPS, eh?
Probably included in the product price
Can't be cheap considering their stupid weight
That's not bad, someone's either selling at a loss or has super cheap shipping rates
lol
it went through on paypal tho
I'm surprised lithium ion isn't more common just considering the cost of shipping SLA's repeatedly
My university post office is gonna kill me
I have Cat7 cable with a normal 8P8C connector and it works perfectly fine. Isn't Cat7 literally just a better version of Cat6? And it doesn't seem that expensive. I highly doubt that this is an issue with the cable, unless it's improperly built. Ive literally used these coiled up and they still work perfectly fine. It's probably a problem with the ISP or maybe the wiring in / into the house.
Not really no, Cat7 never got TIA/EIA certified so the only spec it lives under is ISO which calls for TERA connectors. It can use 8p8c but isn't "in spec"
Cat7 offers no real advantage aside MAYBE some shielding over Cat6a
@clear igloo if my parents ask me about the UPS I'm gonna say "work was upgrading their UPSes and bossman sold me this for cheap"

asking for a friend but what would be better;
an AX11000 router or a 2 pack mesh Deco x95 (ax7800)
Yeah I don’t care about the TTL since I’m using VPN so that won’t even be visible
I heard if I change the MAC it’ll look just like any other client like a phone or other appliance
Depending on the MAC ofc
