#audio-tech
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you know what you cannot work with whatsoever ? DSD files π
audiophiles and their damned obscure file formats
(at somepoint in my life i send a mail to Ableton, for a feature request,... if they would considder files with identical names didentical if one had the wav or aif extention and they were missing but there was a file with an wv extention, then we could compress our stems for archiving without loosing teh abillity to play them when needed ,k even if it took a minute or 5 to buffer them to memory or som scrachdisk,... beats storing raw audio for 15 tracks + mixdowns for each set , a final mix and then a few masters ...
no questions allows youre supposed to automatically know everything there is to know about audio just by joining the serverf
Ok maybe my ping is to high, i think tomorrow i will know everything
Just ask.
Someone will probably get pretty snarky but you may get an answer
givven the amount of fallacies and bad info living in the audio communities by nature i dont think here is any question that can be answered in a simple way such that anyone agrees π π
fr
past anything thats absolute fact it gets squirelly
try digital 44100khz 16bit master is objectively better for storing audio fthan analog stereiophonic 7" vynil
*as a format not as a medium since id did notspecfy the medium for the digital one
or if its not within the audio range humans can hear its not part of the music and can be disregarded , anyone who claims otherwise is beleving in fairytails... and is not to be taken serious ...
ditital audio is worse than analog because of the stapped stair signal it produces ...
i will never fall for the producers mixing console trick to make them happy
making music requires knowledge of music theory and some piano skills , kannot be done using a pckeybard and mouse ... π https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcLCwd-YzIQ jut to post this one π
this isnt true
I know many active sound engineers active in the industry who have gotten in with zero music theory knowledge
ofc not , just wanted to post the video to prove that its not π
thats not very readable sarcasm
figured that the guy in the clip being https://djmag.com/news/angerfist-worlds-no1-hard-dj-dj-mags-top-100-djs-2023 might have helped to convey the sarcasm
i dont know who this is
btw also false :
-or if its not within the audio range humans can hear its not part of the music and can be disregarded , anyone who claims otherwise is beleving in fairytails... and is not to be taken serious ...
-ditital audio is worse than analog because of the stapped stair signal it produces ...
-i will never fall for the producers mixing console trick to make them happy
so that could have helped aswell
I mean i think anyone who believes in fairytales can safely be disregarded
that claim was based on this talk, and i think theyre mostly right but wrong in on specific single regard... and i think i can prove it,... if your senses can detect it and you can objectively measure it(but maybe not with a db meter ) even if you cant hear it i think its part of the music and its a bad idea to disregard it and blatenly filter it out without question... you might still if the effect is unwanted ofc ,... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ
This is a video version of my Audio Myths workshop from the October 2009 AES show in New York City. Because of a few music examples I used, this video is blocked in some countries. So watch it here:
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x59xvic
Questions and discussions about this video are welcome at my Audio Expert forum:
what are these claims based on?
just people talking is not a source. it would actually be really easy to test this, as a lot of audiophile myths have been tested and debunked with 100% certainty. even LTT did multiple instances of these, e.g. about network switches or power filters.
why are "audiophiles" that make claims like these always so averse of putting people in a room with 2 identical audio setups and letting people test setup 1 first, then 2 and say if there is a difference. then have a 2nd group test setup 2 first then setup 1 and a control group where both setups have 0 difference.
given enough sample size, even a deviation by 4% meaning 54% of people prefer 1 setup over the other can be a big hint.
Wow testing obvious bullshit so meaningful
the guy above me is living proof of it
Looking at getting a mic boom arm, something to be positioned above my monitor. Should I get an Elgato Wave Arm or Rode PSA1+ or any other good alternatives? Need something proper sturdy, at the moment I've got a cheap one and it's not nice to move around got crappy springs on the side of it
I like the ak55 one (look it up on Amazon) itβs the cheapest good one and itβs a thinner arm, really good for running around the side of a monitor if you donβt have space underneath or above (like if you have vertically stacked monitors and a center channel speaker below
ok buddy
im all for scientific tests but if youre really going to tell me ltt testing obvious snake oil is a proper test that is worth it and produces meaningful results you got another thing coming
i dont think proving a ""audiophile network switch"" being a scam is meaningful in any capacity lmao
wow i cant believe copper in this button box sounds the same as the other copper
I can't believe a digital and error corrected signal sounds the same on both ends
"why are "audiophiles" that make claims like these always so averse of putting people in a room with 2 identical audio setups and letting people test setup 1 first, then 2 and say if there is a difference. then have a 2nd group test setup 2 first then setup 1 and a control group where both setups have 0 difference."
but thats literally like
what they do
thats called blind testing
lmfao
Many audiophiles are averse to blind testing because it would just count against them, since they'd fail
and many of them already do blind testing
like people that belief stuff you scientifically can't hear
nah
most audiophiles just listen
fr
if its outside of 15hz to 25khz it doesnt matter
some people cough goldensound cough can hear to about 22khz so i just gave a little buffer room
self proclaimed tho
what the fuck
25khz doesn't sound nice tho
i dont believe it
i mean he was able to hear the difference between two dacs because of the low pass behavior past 20khz
in blind?
GoldenSound takes a look at blind testing and whether source gear even makes any difference in the first place!
Full ABX Test Recording: https://youtu.be/O6k30CEqQ7w
Google Drive Folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18EUi9cYeHN4BF9fn5v2ELQPSNdBJkRmw?usp=sharing
Hearing Thresholds for pure tones above 16Khz: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.n...
directly from the video he says he can hear 21k if he turns it up a lot
he can hear this difference
it could be pcm filters?
idk i havent actually watched the whole video through
if you're turning the volume up to hear these differences, they don't matter
he didnt have to turn it up for 20k tho so
they sounded identical to just under 21k. this stuff is inaudible without boosting the volume of a sine playing at that exact frequency. it's technically audible, but not in any remotely meaningful way
if you look at the scale thats roughly 5 db difference at 21k
yeah.. that's less than 1bit of dynamic range at a frequency you can't hear without listening at a level that would deafen you
5dB is vaugely double the volume so its significant but like
there is barely any meaningful info above 20khz in any song I can think of so I don't believe this result is due to being able to hear 21khz
I think I remember him claiming/showing him hearing a 21khz sine (not blind but not really a thing you'd placebo)
probably just an autistic attention to detail to say there is "a" difference, but not necessarily one where there's important information
my biggest problem with a lot of audio gear is just that frankly there's very few that are trustworthy.
at least, i have trust issues
trustworthy how
like are you buying bootleg stuff from ali express
i mean, mostly reviewers; there are good and bad products both.
the only real way to make a real educated guess on a product is to watch as many reviews, read as many, and try to find as much information as possible on a thing before you buy it
that might ruffle some feathers saying that their favorite reviewer isn't trustworthy, but it is what it is
product wise, though, some companies absolutely are kind of scammy; as much as I use my iFi go blu, they sell a ton of junk that's pointless.
ok ifi
theres more egregious examples of unnecessary junk that cost way more.
even if this cost one gajillion dollars, its completely optional. nobodys forcing anyone to buy this crap.
but as soon as they start charging a monthly subscription and it requires always-on internet access, thats when you should start getting mad
planned obsolescence, forced updates that make their product worse, unnecessary DRM, proprietary connections and incompatible hardware. thats scummy behavior.
a sub $100 ethernet noise filter is a security blanket. its small potatoes.
i wouldn't watch reviews
affiliate link tubers
all of them
even crin stopped being honest
He became a salesman for his own brand
Do I need an amp for my Beyerdynamic DT880 Pro?
what impedance
250 ohms, should've mentioned
yeah you should be fine.
unless you're plugging it into something anemic like a playstation controller
Plugged into my PC, the mobo came marketed as if it can handle my headphones lol
Wonder if an amp will make it louder or nah
ehhhhh. anytime a motherboard says "up to 600 ohms" or something thats nonsense. anything is compatible with 600 ohms. or 300. or whatever.
and most amps definitely will, but it might not be necessary.
i think you'll be able to get to loud enough levels with your computer
Nice one lad, won't get an amp then
looking for a good pair of headphones around Β£100 ($135) but i dont know what i should be looking for to work out if something is going to be good or bad, i want something comfortable, wireless over 2.4ghz not bluetooth because of latency, the option to use wired aswell, and of course just good audio for music films and games
hello guys, im looking for bass oriented earbuds to pair with my Pixel 7. For reference, I love the deep and warm bass of my Final E3000 IEMs and i love the sound of my friend's oneplus buds pro 2 but i hate their fit so not getting those, so I want something that thumps hard but stays clear. My choices are narrowed down to Nothing Ear (2024), Pixel Buds Pro 2, Beats Studio Buds Plus, Bose Ultra Earbuds, or the Sony XM5 buds.
Can you stretch a little bit for Fiio FT1
way out of budget and not wireless
Ugreen max5 with jazz preset on ugreen app
is this to say they sound bad out the box? id rather not download the app on every device i own but if its permanent after changing it its probably fine
U just need to download the app on 1 device
cant find them anywhere in the uk do you have an alternative? also id rather not use bluetooth if you know any with dongles
shouldve also mentioned this will be just for computer use so i dont need anything like anc or stuff intended to use outside
u can find it on aliexpress
aliexpress takes 2-4 days to ship to the uk
more like 30-60 days
all my aliexpress orders took 4 days max
I'm in the uk
nor a bunch people that can hear that frequencies lol
some people have to boost 20kHz like 10+dB to hear it anyways
also all this sound shit is different anytime anyways
you can take a shit and a speaker or so sounds different even tho the variables are exactly the same
Our mind fcks up that stuff ALOT anyways
also a reason why people get "tired of listening" on mixing sessions
like no variable has changed. but your concentration did. so its harder or impossible for you to focus on the details etc. that makes the sound more muddy even tho it isn't
We can measure all day, thats nice. But we sadly don't know much about HOW our Brain processes the sound and lets us hear it 
if you want a really sturdy one and don't care about price, get a gator arm
psa1 is for heavy mics
it may just go up with lighter ones
@lean grove hifiman cooked with the new he600
Its lightweight and easy to drive too, for a planar
94dB sensitive 28 ohms
389g
cost
Like 800 euros
ok 500 in a year
Hi, I've been using the edifier e1700bts hooked up to my Motu M2 audio interface via RCA cables for a few years now. I've recently noticed that my right speaker sounds a bit "blown" when playing some frequency. Am I fucked? I remembered a few times where my interface would suddenly stopped working and then turned back out which caused the popping sound through the speakers. Is this the cause for my issue? Is there anything I can do about it? It's pretty annoying once I noticed it.
swap l/r rca cables and see if the issue persists on one speaker or the other
it would be a disappointment to have common and uncommon earth magnets in a 700$ headphone tbh
Couldn't afford neodymium magnets to put in their $800 headphones
but for the price I feel like they could also done epic grade earth magnets
perhaps even mythical grade earth magnets
Klaus do you know what an rare earth magnet is
the issue persists on the same speaker. Also noticed it when playing through bluetooth
which frequency is it
use like a tone generator
Wtf, I thought hifiman was so proud of itself for being able to get rare earth metals more easily because they are in China
Bro the Susvara magnets are so strong
Its crazy
I see
I was measuring the earpad depth. And the metal part on my tape measure just stuck to the magnets
i noticed it around 7khz and maybe 2-3khz. Is my tweeter dead?
2-3khz may be in the midrange
but probably tweeter issue
correction: around 3.2k is the most noticeable
do you have like passive terminals on that speaker to bypass the amp
in songs and speeches, it's female voices
my chain is laptop -> motu m2 (audio interface) -> speakers
The fuck is an edition xv
Probably not. As he is running his interface into them
New 400 dollar hifiman
nope. only rca and bluetooth
A rare warm hifiman
some have an option to bypass integrated amps
yea rip, contact edifier
or buy replacement tweeter and try winging it
sadge
<p><img src="https://hifiman.com/attachments/image/20250811/20250811054657_81087.jpg" alt="" /></p>
@lean grove they could have literally used these grills for their unveiled stuff. And it'd probably be the same
This is probably gonna be the new default recommend
real
wait a year and get these new headphones from their store as refurb
basically half price
tbh the Edition XV looks better in the treble here and it's cheaper
its time to upgrade your Sundara
i havent even worn headphones in over a year i think xd
I have a decent speaker setup
neumann kh120 + svs sb1000 pro + minidsp flex
but like
I prefer headphones
its just so much cleaner
is there a way to compare the general sound profile of a headphone vs iem by graph
like can i just pick a diffuse field target on both gras and 5128 or does it not work that way
Not between rigs
If they're both 5128 there's an argument to be made to be able to compare iems and headphones
not really a hardware question but more of software. is there a program for windows 11 to boost the sounds of other programs? with windows 11 all of my settings in the windows volume mixer is set to 100%, and my problem is that discord and other programs are louder then other, like example star citizen, I have everything set to max, and the game itself is so quite. I need a program that I can boost the sounds of my games so I can hear them, say above youtube and discord without having to play around with turning down a bunch of programs.
I assume you also set windows volume to 100?
volume mixer should do the job controlling the volume of individual programs, and it should save them when you run the program again
otherwise, you can try using Voicemeeter Banana
okay, I just want to increase the volume of one programe past 100. but will try voicemeeter banana
i have a question for you, how far did you get into your analog electronics classes?
idk what the cirriculum layout is nowadays
every school seems to be different lol
On analog side I'm done with linear circuits and finally on electronic circuits. Unfortunately I'm somewhat behind where I should be because I spent a good while getting on my feet cause my parents kicked me out when I graduated highschool. Fortunately, I've been able to maintain a good gpa, because while getting on my feet I basically grinded through reading pirated textbooks for most of my program, so maybe that set back was a blessing.
I am loving messing with embedded systems though. Just feels like a cheat code to making projects.
I ended up specializing in digital system design (FPGA's, fun stuff), but analog electronics is super fun.
imo embedded systems is kinda cheating, because you can do everything you want to do with analog electronics, just easier, with digital.
but analog electronics is still imperative to understand
a lot of your operational amplifier and amplifier design/analysis correlates to audio equipment
hopefully whatever op-amp class you take has you go through and build the world's worst op amp
i encourage you to make the world's worst mono speaker amplifier using it lmao
Lol
Do you know if there's anyone that does a large db of headphones on the 5128 for comparison, why does it seem like nobody tests headphones on it?
that project is making an operational amplifier out of BJT transistors.
it's an awful op amp but it teaches you the overall nonlinearities and non-ideal behavior of op amps
I sort of wanted to make my own amp to use at home just for fun
No matter how ghetto it looks
Lol
Might do something like that as a project then try to improve it after so i can actually use it in a ghetto home theatre amp
Honestly, I love engineering
Because its 60k π
And doesnt have a 200 dollar clone
Only 5128 databases on squig are listener, crinacle and earphones archive
Is the gras cheaper
you are better off using dedicated transistor amplifiers for that instead of home made op amps, mostly due to those non-ideal factors
you can buy op amps that are made for audio.
people use clones but they can pass it off as being the origjnal?
the hiby R4 is a decent example.
but the big stinky speaker amps sometimes use discrete transistor amplifiers, which im sure for some is a vibe
(also called power amplifiers)
a MOSFET is much happier running a few amps through it than an op amp lol
i never knew they made valve headphone amps
I don't get the connection then
They use clones but acknowledge that its a clone
But they are very close to gras
In spec
i dont understand why so many speaker and amplifier specs lie about rms power
ive seen some where if you run them at rms for more than a second they just catch fire
and peak power always seems to be insane and to no standard
ive noticed the thin subwoofers for cars that go under seats are rated at like 400w when they actually are less than 50
its not just in car audio though ive been looking at home audio and some of the ratings just seem crazy
Maybe I am just stupid but I cant seem to get my surround speakers working.
I have a Pioneer vsx-329k reciever
2 Jamo s506 as fronts
2 Loewe as back left and right and a sub which isnt connected yet.
If I manually do the setupfor t.tone in the settings it does produce the white noise but once I play any content on my TV it doesnt play the sound through the surround speakers at all whether its youtube, spotify etc.
Front speakers are set to large
Surrounds to small
I haven't looked into much of that. Can you point me to an example so I can take a look?
eeven when i just search "12 inch subwoofer" the first results are stuff like this claiming 280 watts rms
its hard to find the rms figure on most pages with speakers like that they only list the peak
ive tested a sub before and it bottomed out on 130 watts and the rms was 300
i could hear distortion around 140 on higher frequencies
then the amplifiers that list stupidly high power ratings that they cant do at all
when im buying pa amps there is just brands i ignore because its all bs
Are you measuring the power somehow?
the first three brands here all lie by about 5x at least on their power ratings
you can find other reports on it or in the case of testing subs under 300 watts i have a power supply that lists the power consumption
like behringer make a "6000 watt" amplifier on a regular 240v plug
25A isn't crazy in 240V
the amp weighs 6kg
i have real 1500 watt pa amps and they weigh 25kg
i know that amp can run just over 1kw but it cant get close to 6kw
i find a lot of them amps have like a 6 amp fuse too at most
ive seen 50% of the ones rated at 1kw or 2kw have 2-3 amp fuses
i tested one of the skytech amps on some bigger speakers, the rated rms output was 500w per channel and it was peaking with the speakers taking low power
i dont know the specific number but i think the total power was like 150w before it was on the edge of catching fire
both peak lights were glowing bright red
Likely they just list the "burst"
Music isn't continuous, so the real power is likely 1/3 of whatever the rating is
The back label should tell you the current it pulls from the wall.
i make sure the amps i buy now can run continuous at their rated rms power
most are 2 or 3 amp
(β is a compete random guess idk the real value)
But the fuse being low can make sense if it's a slow blow fuse
most people dont buy them for their intended use but it wouldnt work for pa
it would run pa speakers but with no bass
it has a t2a fuse and says 500w per channel
but peaks at like 150w
i tried to sustain max power and it just couldnt do over 100w
its the same with a lot of speakers and subs that are on the cheaper end
like one of the cheaper subs i had rated for "300w rms 900 peak" that almost died at 130 watts
that 130 doesnt include losses in the amp
you sure it wasn't the enclosure design causing this?
why would the stock enclosure be designed to minimize excursion? it's profitable to have a driver run efficiently below resonance in an oversized enclosure
power and xmax are separate specs for a reason
this does not speak for the driver's power handling at all
the coil would have caught fire if i didnt turn it down
was it smoking?
oh ye thats not good
i could find so many subs that say like "300 watts rms" or something similar that would burn at 150+
same with some bookshelf speakers it depends on the brand
idk those peak power specs are always a lie like if you look at rated vs anyone who actually measures them like asr
π
yes i know peak is a massive lie but some rms is also a lie
I'd be a little surprised if that focal woofer couldnt handle 280w in the right box
some companies give a very accurate rms but others just lie completely
they're mainly in the business of selling medium to top end passive speakers
i got some software to see frequency responce of the box i want to build with my sub
i think thats a good curve?
ive never used it before
looks decent to me
it goes from 10hz to 75hz that graph
and down to -10db before cutting off
20hz is -3db which is what i was aiming for
how are the other graphs? is this a sealed enclosure
no its ported
in a 70 litre box which is what was recommended
couldnt tell you if the details i put in for the sub are right i just tried to copy the spec from the manufacturer into the program
just asked ai for the rest
cant find anything on the internet anywhere so i had no choice
You must improve your google-fu skills
Get all boolean with it
Its just annoying to search for ages and it show me nothing of relevance
its typically something like 350w at 0.1 ohms
so when you adjust the formula to 4 ohms or whatever you get the actual capacity
Yea
Hey, i received this Sony amp and like 8 speakers, is it possible to use it with a PC or do I need to get a newer amp and use only the speakers?
I would like a new DAP, does anyone have reasonable suggestions for about ~$600? Currently looking at the iBasso DX180
The FiiO M21 is neat looking too.
dap
Reasonable
Pick one
one of my hk receivers has a preamp issue but it has pre out main in jumpers so i thought about just taking out all the buttons and spackling and painting over them and then just using it as a smooth face power amp
just get your pc into rca somehow and then you can use it
Would LTT do a video or even want this?
probably not
basicly everybody can if you turn up the volume allot, that is a slong as you have your eadrum ,... if not by detecting the actual sound you can still feel the pressure it generates on your innerear
the problem thenn becomes can you tell appart 21khz from 21.5khz from 30khz since detecting presenso of pressure is not that accurate in working back where that pressure comes from
my google fu skills were really good at one point but over time they dropped support for nearly all magic keywords and operators in favor of keeping you longer on the platform to server you adds
Thanks for the answer, Have you a recommendation how? or does it not really matter?
you cant tho
unless you got a 100w amp feeding directly into headphones or something π
hey guys, was using some razer nommo chroma speakers but im looking to upgrade. anyone know of some good computer speakers for music and gaming?
its really not that hard , just pic a frequency you cant hear , like 24khz for me at my age is defenetly something i cant hear anymore, put onhead phones and flip the sound on and of and on again a couple times in a relatively silent room, just focus on the feeling rather than the sound its pretty easy to tell when the sound is on as opposed to when its off once you noticed the difference ,... but for the love of god i could not tell if it was 20khz or 50khz just if its on and of, and i score a perfect each time i have to do a hearing test for work, ow and it helps if you happen to have a headcold
was looking at these but idk if they're good or not
with a 100W amp you could tell from the back of a venue wheter its playing a 25khz sinus or not , without needing headphones lol...
500mW would be overkill already for headphones
but it helps to figure out what feeling your supposed to be looking for in change when the volume is a little higher but once you have what it feels like its pretty easy
Bro is hearing the distortion products
anyone able to give some insight?
Logitech are normally poop
my direct comparison would be the razer nommo chroma speakers
which are like 6 years old at this point
Just don't get gamer marketed stuff tbh
You're paying a needless tax for a fancy logo, lights, and marketing
i was dumb and was just getting into pc accessories at that point, these have been good for me but i don't have an educated perspective
Nothing wrong with that. You know better now though π
what is your budget?
Pretty low for speakers but 200 and below probably
edifier mr4
Okay Ty, Iβll Check them out
Is it just connected from 1 auxiliary cable?
How do they connect and get power?
its 1 aux per side
the power is from wall
you connect the speaker taps from one side to the other
My pc only has 1 aux port
Just ordered them! Ty for the recommendation
happened to be browsing headphones.com and saw this:
and was like, oh that's cool, headphones.com selling them
except one problem
if they are backordered, are they really available now?
I would say no
that just seems like bs
idk how they sell anything when every time i look at their website it's always backordered, so i just end up going to Amazon or something lol
their return policy at headphones.com is pretty tempting but I have trust issues
idk enough to recommend stuff but other people might have some suggestions for what to buy
as far as the DAP I'll probably just buy the FiiO M21
it looks decent enough, and it'll just be replacing my FiiO M11.
I am thinking about replacing my Definitive ProSub 600 what sub should I replace it with
I'm not in a dedicated headphones server, not an active one anyways so sorry need purchase advice and asking a few places and seeing who answers first.
If I have roughly $150-160 to spend and it has to be noise canceling, can I do better then the Sony wh 1000 xm4s (dam this is a long name) on amazon for $165 renewed?
At a desk setup what is the ideal elevation for speakers?
I currently have mine quite a bit above me but Iβm sure itβs not ideal
Have new speakers coming and Iβm wondering if I should put them on the actual desk around head level
maybe look at the moondrop edge? you'll save about half the cost ish. idk if they "sound," better but they have noise cancelling and a funny lady talking to you when you do stuff.
Tweeter at ear level is pretty much it. Measure the distance from your eyes or ears to the floor, and that's the height for your speakers.
Waiting for a bit of extra cash to get stands for these monitors so they can sit in the correct orientation
Does anyone wanna buy a pair.

Guys
I found xm5s selling for 258 dollars
Like brand new
Isnt that a good catch?
It doesn't sound like a very good deal
how much do they cost normally???? I would've thought like $250 at full price
Like 345 at best buy
330 at sonys own website
300 on target
Idk not getting anything worse then those and most people said the XM4s are the best at $160 renewed that your not doing better then that so I think that's just going to be what I go with.
Β―_(γ)_/Β― yea, your money your choice; amazon renewed always gives me the heebie jeebies
Look at walmart
I think i saw em for like 148
12 dollars is 12 dollars π€·ββοΈ
Do yall think sprnding atleast 150$ more is worth the xm5 over the xm4?
They're like a third that price at Walmart?
Nah
I saw
Its a chinese guy
They're $199 on Sony website
I don't think that Amazon sale looks like a very promising deal
Its walmart sale
This is walmart
I'd say look more into sales, because on a quick google search, almost all deals seem better
hey guys i am searching for a headset but i can deside witch one i am curently using a reddragon h510 but now i want one thats a title more high res but still on a budget i like it wired but also wireless is fine any ideeas what could be a good option?
Or some chinese guy with a comlany called zuagdongjdhfhdjdjdksf
Selling tjem for 98 bucka
W a single review saying " do not buy from this guy he sells replicas"
Look at the seller
Walmart has a shit ton of scammer in their online stores
Sincr they allow 3rd parties now
U cant even return them most of the time
So u js end up w a 25 dollar piece of shit replica
Lmao
Yeaaa dont buy it on Walmart
Even just a Google search shows one single outlier at $99, which is the Walmart one.
If that's the only seller at that price, something is wrong.
Tbh, I didn't even know Walmart had external sellers until now
Why does every retailer let sketchy sellers use their sites now?
What did we all do to earn this hell?
Lol
the paradox of capitalist growth
Ah I see ty, I think Iβll have the horizontally place the new ones on my desk
Idk if the edifier mr4 speakers can be placed horizontally or not though
Ehh, if you don't really care all that much then it's fine.
But it's better to have it upside down that sideways
Ah I see, I just donβt know where I can place it then. Desk space is mainly occupied by my monitors
Trying to think π€
i feel like this should have been thought before buying the speakers lol
Aimed inwards toward you, makes sense
Thatβs a good point, Iβll think of something though lol
Get some stands and have them over your monitors
if you want you can extend the shelf to left and right and place the speakers upside down, angled towards you
Might be wack as hell but that might work
mounting sideways is also okay if you have stands
dont do it on a solid surface though
only if its a small arm
The mr 4 should be fine sideways
Not that critical tbh. But if you're doing music work, have your monitors orientation correct
Trying to visualize what you mean by this
Shift everything to the right a lil
Ahhh I see
Order should be here in a few hours, need to get my hands on them and see how big they are irl
the lamp would perish on the left
yeah
also angled downwards
stuff some acoustic foam below them if you have any or books
Lol
tbh that lamp is never used anyway
for the time being you can just place them to the leftmost and rightmost sides of the available shelf but
There are desk stands that allow you to angle your speakers
the imaging and soundstage will be really poor without placing them well left and well right
you can also 3d print them
3d print what
holders for the speakers

why would you 3d print this
i have 3 so my speakers are front speakers are angled towards me
it was cheaper and i do like 3d printing but its not for everyone

just grab some foam from a kitchen sponge and place it at the backside of the speaker
the print will likely rattle
That works lol
yeah
sponge is a good material for this which is why most companies send you their cut at an angle speaker holders
speaking of which
mr4 might actually come with
now that I think about it
what would be convenient
INCLUDED IN THE BOX
User Manual
Passive(left) Speaker
Active(right) Speaker
Speaker Connecting Cable
3.5mm-RCA Audio Cable
3.5mm-3.5mm Audio Cable
perhaps not
rip
so i think ill put a longer board above the white shelf, and that would extend the length, as for angling them downwards, not too sure what id do yet
just squeeze a small notebook or some sponge at the backside of the speaker to angle it
you can also just fold a bunch of newspaper
paper and sponge is good for this job
ok that makes sense
have both rca and 3.5 ports on my pc, is there a preferred connection?
4.4 please
no
tbh i dont know what that is
dont think i have this, will need to check the io panel again in a bit
whats annoying is i have to take off the top fan bracket to access my io panel
aint no pc got xlr in the io
ok, what is it even for?
i mean it was in response to somehow having rca on his pc
is it not common?
Maybe a sound card
people still use those things? π
pc is the thermaltake reactor 9880

i dont think any modern pc motherboard has rca
is it possible im mistaken? 3 colored port
ok motherboard is the asus prime z790-p wifi
let me see if i can just find a picture of the io panel
those ports are mic in, line out and line in
^
.
3.5mm mic in, line in and line out
nah rca uses different colors and the ports are a bit different
would i use those ports for my speakers? i think theres a seperate standalone 3.5 port as well
as well as another on the front
it depends.
speakers are obviously different, but generally speakers are designed to have pretty good performance below the tweeter angle, and pretty good performance side to side, but usually pretty bad above-the-tweeter performance.
so at near-field, sideways is gonna be better.
otherwise upside down you better be prepared to have them at ear-level and have some good absorbtion below the speakers.
pretty sure you can use them for whatever you want 
ceiling bounces are not really important since ceilings are usually pretty high. so if sacrifices are to be made, above-tweeter axis performance is what goes first.
you can tell the pc what its for
anyway pretty sure youd just plug the 3.5 to rca to the speaker and green port on the pc
and then connect the speakers together with the speaker wire
its that simple
ok thankyou!!
just starting to get into audio tech a bit more so I'm pretty uninformed about what is probably basic info to you guys lol
i've got recording hardware brainrot. i read line out and just assumed it'd be mono like everything else that says line out
lmao
but yeah hoping the new speakers are good, i like listening to a lot of orchestral music from video games like skyrim and wow, hoping i can distincly hear the intstruments with these instead of them getting muddled together
For most studio monitors, it's better to have them upside down than sideways, let's take Adam audio monitors for example. The wave guides on them are meant for vertical orientation, you can however change that in some models to use in the horizontal orientation. In this case, the gentleman just wants sound.
The horizontal dispersion is different from the vertical in most monitors.
make sure you room is prepared for them too. speakers need a good room to thrive in, otherwise room reflections are gonna interfere with the sound
Baby steps
you have this on your pc?
yeah im ordering sound boards soon
dont
you dont need them
waste of money
oh ok nvm then lol
if you have money to put into buying a sound card it was better put into paying more for nicer speakers
they don't have a soundcard
maybe he meant sound panels π€
Invest in a nice desk. And monitor arms.
invest in me
@astral anchor did you mean sound panels by sound board?
we are lost in the terminology
yeah lmao
oh
I accept donations
board as in boards of material you put on the wall to improve sound
yeah i get you
Acoustic panels
uh
instead of that
In this video I will show you how to correct your speakers frequency response with REW in combination with the UMIK-1 and Equalizer APO.
Amazon | miniDSP UMIK-1: https://amzn.to/3FY77Cv *
Support future videos on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/juliankrause **
Follow me on Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/thejuliankrause
My house curve (model...
just follow this procedure to begin with
Omg it's not that serious
its not that "its not that serious"
the process takes like
1 minute lmao
its not a serious process at all
idk, man. the horizontal directivity looks way better to me than the vertical directivity.
its just that you have more bang for buck with room correction than with acoustic panels
acoustic panels is like the later step
well. i guess if you're on-axis with the wteeter it shouldnt matter
True
you move around horizontally way more than you do vertically
so yeah i guess upside down shouldnt matter as long as you're on-axis
dude is still sitting in the corner of a room with one speaker right in the corner, acoustic panels arent going to do anything to that
yeah blah blah blah idk
Again, shelves or stands. Upside down, tweeters at ear level. That's all for now. @astral anchor
It's easy to overwhelm someone with information
Keep it simple,
Further inquiry would warrant further explanation.
fr a measurement mic is like 30 bucks while acoustic panels is at minimum a hundred or so
yeah, and foam doesnt do jackshit for mids and lows
Could raise my monitors to allow more space on my desk
Idk if thereβs enough clearance still
nah horizontal isnt good
dont do it
just use the space you have on the shelf for now and extend the shelf later if you feel like upgrading the soundstage/imaging a bit
About a half foot high, probably hard to tell from the picture
Currently working on converting an old Sony DVD player/VCR combo into a network audio streamer and I just realized
I've made an actual audiophile network switch
So for now put them behind the monitor upside down?
laughs in soundblaster AE-9
in all honesty that thing i just liked because it has that desktop audio thingy with the ports.
It's still in my pc, even though I have some nice schiit.
they should make a sound card that is entirely a desktop audio thingy with ports and doesn't have to be inside your PC. and connect via some standard universial connector so laptops can use it too.
that would be crazy
Hope I put the wire in correctly
I will say, the companion app with the AE-9 is cool though, it does microphone in and other stuff as well as a bunch of changes you can make in the app.
it's stupid expensive for what it is
but it's neat.
as long as its consistent with the speaker, it should be fine. the color doesnt have an actual impact on sound. its there for you to remember which ones are which.
As long as you put them in the same way between both speakers it doesn't matter
laughing because youre using a soundblaster in the year 2025
The only thing swapping the wires does is invert the phase
so judgemental t.t
the desktop thing just looks like it should be a standalone mic interface
Ah ok ty
My dad is going to make some wall mounts that angle my speakers downward, Iβll show what it will be like
Lamp will go and the red lines will be wall mounts angling downward with a guard
Not sure if wood is fine for the Material or not though
Cool
Should be fine with some foam or rubber underneath the speakers
Does anyone wanna blow a bunch of money on some custom built speakers
Looking for clients
This is how I have it set up currently, thanks for the help guys
Looks pretty cool
Ty!
put them on the shelf
yeah
do this but upside down lmao
Was worried they would slide off, but theyβre fine
Sounds better too
These sound exactly how I wanted them to, ty again
np bro
Should I turn the actual speakers off manually ever time I turn my pc off?
i'd leave them on. power cycling can shorten the lifespan of electronics. not that you'll likely ever see the effects of that, but i think it's a good excuse for being lazy and not turning everything off when you're not using it
you should avoid playing music on your speakers because the tens of thousands of power cycles per second could shorten their lifespan
yes because sending an audio signal is the same thing as turning the amplifier inside the speaker on and off thousands of times a second π€¦ββοΈ
I can do one better, just never turn them on..
Don't even plug them in
Normal daily power cycling isnt a big deal. They're designed to handle that.
Your electricity bill will thank you.
Many user manuals also advise to turn off if not using for long periods of time.
i doubt either of these will have a major impact
if you want you can buy a relay module and have the speakers automatically turn on with your pc
nah, the longevity thing is marginal but turning off stuff you aren't using for long periods of time does save money on your bill.
I like the relay module, though!.
I always thought about using smart-plugs on everything
but then too lazy to do
relays underrated asf
fr, could even do one of those raspberry pi relay modules and do it real fancy like
though at that point it's more of a pedigree thing than power savings lol
yeah lol
maybe an ESP32 though
some automation type controller with an ESP32 driving relays for that stuff
that should be pretty power-sippy.
what would you do with an esp32 lmao
its just 5v from pc usb into relays
when pc is on 5v comes in and relays close
Automation
My new oscilloscope arrives today
whatcha get?
Finirsi 1014d. It's not perfect, but for what I mess with at home, it's good enough tbh. Plus I got it for $70
It has an abysmal memory depth though
never heard of that thing in my life
looks ok tho for a hobby tool
try cleaning your ears
Is it the side with the cable on it? Sometimes if it's not set in correctly it can cause a leak
can someone please send me a 3.5 audio jack that is angled or whatever because i keep buying them and breaking them i need soulutions oh yea and it has a usb c on the end
Usb c to 3.5?
I like ugreen stuff, but Idk if they got a cable like that
Might quicker find a right angle type c to 3.5mm female
where am I
is this two fused photos vertically
That's a shelf
oh ok
I see now
also maybe consider side placement instead of upside down. not that different really, but more stable and just a smidge more height with the tweeters
right now the tweeters are partially reflecting off the shelf
if you hear any weird peaks or the sound changes a lot when you move, that's probably why
I'd have it hang slightly over the shelf
lol yep just a shelf
The 8 points were simply chosen as arbitrary multiples of 266mv
The frequency is also an arbitrarily chosen value
I sent the wrong files
Took some measurements of an amplifier with a control gain ratio of 1.00 to show that as the input amplitude changes, we will see some small but consistent variance in that gain ratio. The amplifier was given a simple resistor load of 10 ohms. The input amplitude was controlled via a potentiometer and was generated by the oscilloscope.
Hey, I just bought a used set of Logitech z506 surround speakers and i am hab=ving trouble with 5.1. When i was setting up 5.1 in control panel on windows i could not hear the center or sub channel when clicking on them, but when watching stereo content on you tube i can hear audio coming from both. i already tried swapping out the cable that goes to the sub and center channel mix with one that just worked on the other channels. any help would be great thank you!
I just installed my edifier mr4 after using a $30 speaker for 13 years... holy mother of God! Is this heaven? :O
Just imagine what it would sound like if you spent even more money on speakers
Hell yeah!! I'll mostly use it for gaming and movies, but the sound is great! It's in a whole new level
As stated in another server this test is unfortunately invalid for a number of reasons:
-
Using an input potentiometer creates a number of problematic variables including impedance mismatches affecting output level particularly with low input-impedance amps
-
Using an input potentiometer and using one channel of it as a reference and the other to feed the amp invalidates the test since potentiometers never have perfect channel matching
-
Using an input potentiometer also then forms an RC low-pass filter with the capacitance of the output cables feeding the scope input and the amp input. Affecting the output signal level. Cables must be matched perfectly, and this issue is compounded if you're using vpk as the metric instead of vrms, and you're using a square wave. Doing this with a sine and using RMS instead of peak would alleviate the issue to a great extent. But you really should be using a high quality DAC or something instead, an input potentiometer is just too problematic here.
-
This behaviour has literally never been documented in not just any amplifier, but any transistor. Transistors do not have sudden jumps in their gain curves and to be blunt, if this behaviour did exist, and could be measured with a simple input/output comparison on a scope, SOMEONE would have seen it when working on some sort of amplifier in or out of audio or just anything involved with transistors. And yet no one ever has, leaving it 99.99999% certain that the test setup is flawed.
-
Following the above point, literally every measurement of every amplifier (and in fact transistor) I've ever seen has shown this behaviour not to exist. It's simple to check with the linearity measurement which is very common, and every single one shows no evidence of this
not to forget that a square wave tends to show RC filtering more, if it was tested with sine it would have been much smaller. most of those were testing artifacts.
exactly
Even if some of these turn out not to be issues, there's no good reason not to fix them when they ARE highly likely to be the reason he's getting unusual results
though I suspect the culprit is just the potentiometer channel difference tbh
i just say he wanted to play with his new o-scope :p
The potentiometer was before our reference voltage (channel A) and simply acted to divide our function generator input (2.5vp square wave from internal function gen), which was not directly measured or used as the scope reference. The input level recorded acts as it's own voltage source, sharing a node with the amplifier input. As such, in regard to our measured reference, it is not changing our response. If it were, it still would not matter, as that input level is manually set to our desired value.
I will measure again tonight with a sine wave, but the square wave was used in my initial test, as it is better suited to test a wider array of potential issues, including power delivery related issues.
Channel B was simply our output from the amplifier.
@broken grotto @white gate
This is just meant to clear up the testing parameters and reasonings, because I think that's where the confusion is.
Please do this with a DAC, doing it with the potentiometer leaves open too many problematic variables
If you really feel the pot is no issue, all the more reason to just do it with a DAC and show that you get the same results
And use RMS
not pk
(though the pk was mostly an issue BECAUSE you were using a square wave)
A DAC would just create a more imperfect input and leave more room for error. In reference channel A/ amp input, it would simply act as the same voltage source but with a less perfect input.
No it wouldn't, if you're comparing the output from the dac vs the output from the dac passed through the amp then it doesn't matter if the DAC would be imperfect (And the DAC is gonna be better than the pot anyway)
If we have a signal wave X and we generate it from a DAC, that exact same signal wave X would not change if the node is shared and it's generated from a function generator. Our reference is effectively our vs here, as it is what's shared at the node of the input. What matters here is simply which produces a better wave for what we want to test and gives us more control, which is the function generator.
Think of it like doing circuit analysis on a 12vdc power supply with a perfect output going into a 1kohm resistor vs smoking circuit analysis on a 1kohm resistor with a 12vdc source without the whole power supply meing modeled. They're the same thing, and we can just ignore the circuit behind that known perfect output.
The problem isn't the generator it's the way you're varying level
I really don't know how much clearer it can be said: Don't use the pot
Again, the potentiometer is before our reference point. It just divides the function gen.
...........
The function gen is not our reference
I fully understand that, and have explained why there are still issues due to the RC effect, especially combined with using a square wave, and low level signals
The shared node for channel A and the dac input is the reference
There is no potentiometer between those two points. There is no anything between those two points.
I'm not going to reply further as you're either trolling or just not reading what I've said, the lack of a pot between those points isn't the issue when the RC effect from the combination of the pot and the cables to each point is the issue (among others which have been pointed out)
If the reference is known to be the exact value we want, it does not actually matter what's happening behind it in relation to the experiment. I think you're still mistaking this as if the function gen is our reference.
Just like in this example.
In the meantime, here's a quick test showing that this effect does not exist, with well over 1000 individual levels/points tested for the sake of being thorough.
Red channel is the reference signal (actual measurement, not assumed output), blue is the output from the amp.
The amp in this case has 14dB (13.94dB to be precise) of gain (reference is ofc 0dB), and the gain is exactly 14dB at all of those 1000 levels right until you get down into the microvolt range where noise starts to affect the signal level to a meaningful extent.
There are no sudden differences in gain at particular input levels.
If this effect existed, congrats you've discovered a brand new aspect of transistor behaviour and can write some papers about it as no one in the history of electronic engineering has found what you have
a square wave is not appropriate for gain ratio measurements. In analog electronics, a sine wave is used for this.
Square waves are great for slew-rate and bandwidth, but they aren't great for gain ratio with a variable impedance source. If you wanted constant-gain verification, use sines and V_rms or measure the fundamental via FFT.
additionally, channel A and B probes rarely have identical capacitance, the input node will be pulled around by CHA.
^^
you can literally change this result by just adjusting the compensation on your probe itself, that's why it's there
Furthermore, a divider changes the thevenin source resistance seen by the amp. R_th varies with the knob, with the middle being near 12.5kΞ© and near the end it's approaching 50kΞ©. The R_th and input capacitance makes an RC low pass at the input node, and the output node is seeing a different impedance and different probe loading.
The two channels are filtered differently, so Vout/Vin ratio drifts with the pot position.
We have tried to explain this to him for the past two days in the GS server, unfortunately he refuses to change the test setup and keeps reasserting that the pot is not an issue
im just a lowly EE man, i can't resist talking electronics ;p
really all that he's doing "wrong," is just comparing the Vpp of two different waveforms at two different nodes.
it's not too big of a deal unless it's starting to pass it off as complete, accurate testing.
gotta learn somehow
being grilled by golden probably isn't the worst way
This is all demonstrated by the graph I showed earlier but yeah, doesn't matter if you feed it 50uV, 100mV, or some arbitrary value like 427.4mV, the 13.94dB gain out of the amp (bottom right) remains the same
I apologise if I'm appearing more short than usual. As mentioned this discussion has been going on for several days, and whilst I usually like to think I have quite extensive patience to discuss, assist with and provide input onto this sort of stuff, past a certain point it becomes clear the other person isn't actually interested in having a real discussion and will not accept any constructive input or explanation, especially when they are unwilling to make any amendments or try literally anything suggested to them by any of the various people that have explained why his results are being unusual thus far, and so at the three-day mark, I'm a little tired π
lol it's all good, I am just glad we're on the same page
You are aware of who you're arguing with, right?
not really
OH
Well that explains a lot
tho @sleek lily , you should use a buffer.
If you use the voltage follower, the op amp presents a very high impedance to the pot, meaning the pot no longer creates a big position dependent source resistance.
The buffer's output has a low impedance, usually in the 10s of ohms, so cable and probe capacitance won't easily form an RC LPF. Put a 47-100Ξ© in series at the opamp output for stability with capacitive loads.
Measure the CHA at the buffer output, CHB at the output.
not perfect, but better than what you were doing.
do you still do videos anywhere? the last one i saw was the dac one where you could hear like 21kHz or something like that lol
What is the actual difference between a Class A, Class AB and Class D amplifier? GoldenSound breaks them down in under 10 minutes!
Transistor Biasing Explained: https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/amplifier/transistor-biasing.html
Class D Amplifiers (Analog Devices): http://www.analog.com/media/en/analog-dialogue/volume-40/number-2/articles/cl...
GoldenSound deep dives into the Laiv uDAC, to investigate how it holds up against its big brother the Laiv Harmony.
Laiv uDAC: https://www.laiv.audio/harmony-udac
Laiv udac Measurements: https://headphones.com/blogs/reviews/laiv-udac-review-measurements
Golden's HQPlayer settings: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/2/folders/1QPV-N4_Bnz7Ri49v26Q...
I've got some vids upcoming on my channel again soon. The last year or so most of my stuff has been on the headphone show
ty
any opinion on cheap-ish speakers amplifiers like the douk audio a5, aiyima a07 max or fosi za3 or even fosi v3 mono ?
I need to find a replacement for my old Nad model 140 for my pc setup and I'm looking for something smaller but still good enough
the fosi options would be stretching the budget tho
especially two v3 mono ...
Well that explains why biooc didn't really seem credible to me
I can try setting that up.
I figured for a quick experiment, because I know the output read in channel A for the experiment shares the same node as the amp input and I know the signal is good, I could treat it as a source. Like you mentioned, it's like a thevenan voltage going into the load/our amp. This assumption would still be accurate though in the realm of the experiment wouldn't it?
The pot and generator can be treated as a thevenin source, yes. if you probe the same node as the input, you're measuring the thevenin voltage the amplifier is seeing. It's ideal.
But the world isn't ideal. The thevenin source impedance is not zero, it varies. This impedance along with the cable probe capacitance is still creating an RC filter on the very node you measure. The thevenin voltage itself is bandwidth limited depending on the potentiometer position. You're comparing a relatively filtered input to an unfiltered output.
Additionally, a square wave's peak is significantly dependent on it's harmonics. Even if the fundamental amplitude stays correct, harmonics get attenuated. Since it's dependent by the harmonics, it will change with that very RC filtering. This is the "gain drift," you're seeing.
your assumption holds if and only if you buffer the pot with a unity-gain buffer. this is because the thevenin impedance drops to <1Ξ©, typically.
without that buffer, your measurement is contaminated and useless.
this doesn't even consider the first-order nature of your assumption, either. Mutual capacitance and (!) crosstalk, the pot's wiper track, wiring to the DUT and probe leads couple to each other, bleeding harmonics further changing Vpp. Also if your probes aren't matched or compensated the same, you're measuring two different systems.
For comparing the voltage ratio to find the gain though, wouldn't the input and output be impacted by any filter from the cable in a similar manner on the edges?
I do get that there will inherently be some small filter created there impacting the edge bandwidth, I just wouldn't think it'd be significant at 10KHz. I would have to actually calculate the filter formed to confirm this tbf.
I will try to set up the buffer on a later date though. I'll start by trying to take the measurements with a sine wave though just so I have more data I can later compare to the buffered version and learn from π @broken grotto
draw a test diagram.
determine the harmonics of 10kHz, as well.
if you've taken signals and systems, you'll remember that a 50% duty-cycle square wave of frequency f can be written as a Fourier series, as shown in the attached picture.
i've made it easy by defining it where frequency is shown.
I was able to recreate your test setup using Multisim. See attached graphs.
the first uses no buffer amp, the second uses a buffer.
Here's a hint
warship got me
as I was saying before warship deleted my message, I will try the buffer circuit next @broken grotto
I got some sine wave measurements in though
not needing to go to campus to use an oscilloscope feels so overpowered tbh
it is nice using keysight ones on campus
except the Analog Discovery 2 is also an awesome tool.
I'd like to eventually get one of those digital transmitting probe scopes
I think those are usually used on ghz plus rated scopes, so probably not in the budget til after I'm done with college
looking at your scopes though, looks to be about unity gain.
which is what we'd expect on sine waves.
quite a few years ago i soldered together some unity gain buffers that I can just throw in a circuit if i think my probes are causing trouble
I need to just go on a component buying spree when my student aid kicks in
just fill a digikey cart up
or just go on amazon and buy the bulk sets that will get you though your entire college career.
https://www.microwavejournal.com/articles/3451-gain-for-compressed-amplifiers?utm_
Found this article that touches on the idea I'm testing. It's not a new concept, so I don't know why golden insisted it is, but it's an interesting read.
Tutorial Gain for Compressed Amplifiers There is growing interest in operating amplifiers into compression to achieve higher power-conversion efficiencies. It becomes constructive then to revisit the concept of amplifier gain, because when an amplifier operates in compression the general assumption that the output signal is directly proportiona...
@broken grotto I need to order some rail to rail opamps. Do you have a specific model you consider pretty good and cheap for the unity gain buffers? If not I can search around a little.
hmmmmmmm, have you heard of our good friend Maxwell?
that article is talking about RF amplifiers. they're right when in that domain.
in your case, the amplifier never entered compression; the "gain drift," was just input filtering.
OPA340
My main assumption was that we can see some small nonlinearities due to small filters formed in individual loops or by input and output filters tbf. It wasn't necessarily to attribute the effect to the actual transistors or opamps, but I have seen some pretty wacky behaving non rail to rail opamps that might cause a similar effect for no reason other than their behaviors make no sense to begin with lol
I think I have one where you listened to add a small output cap to anything you do with it because if not it adds a pretty heavy dc bias and it also randomly generates huge spikes in random spots when presented with a square wave
Like not even overshoot. Just random spots with no rhyme or reason lol
i smell a smell. a smelly smell. a smelly smell that smells like oscillatory behavior.
It probably is. It's just such a pain to design anything with that opamp lol
But for some reason I got gifted like 4 of them from a friend
which op amp?
Probably cause they hated them too
you can buy thousands of different op amps
I don't remember the model off the top of my head
I just remember it's the evil opamp lol
it's just stability and baising.
characterstics of op amps vary.
some ops amps come to you unstable, so you can make them stable for your application.
Tbf, I will probably find an application where it's heavy dc biasing by default becomes useful in some future project
get good at looking at these plots to see if it's unity-gain stable.
for example, the OPA340 was designed by TI to be stable for all gains greater than or equal to 1.
sorry if I'm getting too far into the weeds guys lol
i have some magird tea pro IEM's coming today tho
have fun with them 
Are they recieved as good or bad?
Ive heard about the original but not the new ones lol
idk
i don't really care anymore
If i recommend stuff, i look for the persons preference and what measures good bcs. god who knows what the person would like anyways
so its a higher chance if you pick something that LOTS of people like
i know a dude that likes Sundara Closed
Golden likes the AB1266 even tho it measures not well
for me it's.
Try out lots of stuff. pick what you like. give a damn what other people say about it π
(when it comes to comfort, sound and looks)
I just buy iems to have fun
exactly
Idc what people say either lol
same for me with Headphones
i now have 10 headphones and 2 IEMs (one is a shitty Amazon shitbud i got for free)
and i will get more. Because i just like to collect them π
some people collect stones, some lots of different currencies, some collect PC hardware, and i just collect audio stuff
i don't search for "the best in the world"
Would be still nice if i find it but uh... not activly searching for that,
i have tried out many stuff, i like many headphones
if i start EQing my headphones to what my preference is
they start to sound pretty similar
so i don't think i can go that much further, or ill find something completly different that blows me away 
this Saturday the WOH (World Of Headphones) is in Essen. I will go there with my HD800s and maybe some other headphones, i will listen to lots of stuff, different DACs and AMPs and have fun π
maybe i find something interesting
last WOH in Heidelberg, i had my HD600 and FT1 with me. A guy wanted to demo my FT1 xD
i gave my FT1 to him and he made like tons of notes with comfort, sound etc
(my FT1 had and still has the Capra Strap)
i just like being around bunch of idiots like me, sharing the same interests π and enjoying the experience together
has anyone here compared space travel 2 and 1
does anyone know how i should break in my subwoofer driver
i know im meant to run it for around 10 hours for a basic break in but not sure on power and frequency
You dont.
Just listen
ive been told doing it loosens it up and lowers responce
The same thing would happen if you just listen
But yeah, no need to sit them for 10 hours.
does the time you need to listen change depending on the sub
ive just been told previously that people do it
im not telling its fake or not
but pink noise is how you break them in if that is what you want to do
how you can break them in
or brown noise
i do need to sort out my amp fan its like 17 years old i might put a noctua in it
its running at like 7000 rpm
what class is it
I have iems -> moondrop dawn pro amp -> UGreen 240W usb c charger -> to usb -> then usb connected to motherboard
Iβve been hearing like a windy/electrical noise in my iems, so Iβm getting this - Hifime High-Speed USB Isolator (Up to 480Mbps, hi-speed)
Do u guys think itβll be enough to fix the issue
Get the jds labs synapse.
And if you're hearing noise due to your USB being dirty, then yeah it should help.
I solved all my issues I had with Susvara
turns out I had the headband way too tight
I thought one setting wider would be too loose, since it feels loose for like 10 seconds until it settles. But after that, the headphone kinda sits well and disappears
my ear no longer touches the inside mesh in an annoying way now
What headset would yall recommend for 50β¬?
Has to be Over Ear, and have a microphone near the mouth, not on a cable
And preferrably relativly "brand named" or popular, ill have to find it in a physical store
@cosmic plume have you tried searching yourself what you can get for 50 euros?
Do you guys think speakers are worth it if 90% of the time you are on the pc you are in a call?
You are likely screwed
looking for noise cancelling headphones for younger sister. Budget is <300$. All that matters is that noise cancellation is powerful, but she has very picky sensory sensitivities, so she might not like the feeling of complete sensory deprevation (not sure how to describe it, but does anybody know of a good solution?) She doesnt care about audio quality, I just need to find headphones that can fit her sensory needs when noise cancelling is on. They also must be over ear headphones.
Go on rtings and see their ANC ratings for headphones
And just filter by cost
but would this help find ones that would fit sensory sensitivities? I was mostly asking here because theres a wide audience of people who may know more about headsets that can suit people with sensory sensitivites
the science isn't that in depth
its just we have sounds from 20 to 20khz
and we have graphs of which headphones block which of those frequencies at what level
its like a reverse frequency response graph
Idk. There's a lot that can set off sensory issues and depends entirely on the person and flavor of autism.
Bose are the most comfortable ones I've tried. And they have decent noise isolation.
I think it might be worthwhile to take her to someplace like best buy or a department store and have her try stuff out in person
honestly, the mangird tea pro is kind of a vibe
something strongly isolating instead of anc, like an hd280 pro, wont block out bassier noises as much but would greatly muffle the rest of sounds
not sure if that'd feel any better. definitely feels more normal though
think shooting muffs / normal hearing protection
maybe not quite as strong
also a lot cheaper
shure srh440a/840a, razer blackshark v2x and probably the other v2 models, and many things I dont have would achieve the same effect
Yeah, JBL Quantum 100 which suck. There are tons of "brand name" headsets, if id research every single one of em id be dead by the time im done.. thats why i asked in here, cuz people already know their stuff here
They dont gotta be amazing and world class, they just gotta be decent and comfortable enough to game and vc with em
you mean burn in?
fck that nonsense
My dad's looking to buy a party speaker but he wants one that can plays cds, he's said all the ones he's found are mostly Bluetooth.
Not sure exactly what they're called he said he wants a good one and doesn't really wanna go above Β£300-500 If they're not any good.
Wants to be able to move it around so he can have it outside when he has a bbq
If anyone has any suggestions would be much appreciated π
The reality is that you cant get anything decent for 50 bucks with your requirements
At that price you are praying for borderline not complete trash
What? What happened to decent 30β¬ headphones??
Bro if you want budget decent. You gotta get earbuds
Yeah no, cant get earbuds, too uncomfortable, they start hurting in no time
Then save up more
But seriously? There isnt any 50 Euro headset with an acceptable and like, flexible headstrap (aka tiltable so they fit flush) with non crap cushios?
Didn't you also want wireless?
Just a few months ago i bought Bluetooth jbl headphones over ear for 70β¬
Yea.. okay imma be clear: i have to try and not waste a 50β¬ store giftcard
I can add a bit to it, but yea
(the lowest i see em for is 130β¬)
Like, these were wireless and are fine and all.. there has to be a cheaper known brand/model for 50β¬ that isnt absolute ass
Maybe spent it on something else
try cloud 2 or 3 on discount
Iβm currently using Sennheiser HD600s, but since theyβre open backed, Iβm struggling with privacy (sound leakage + hearing people around me). Iβm looking for a closed back alternative thatβs good for music production.
Budget: around Β£250 (maybe up to Β£300 if itβs really worth it) - wanted to keep the budget around what I paid for the 600s which was Β£250
Use case: everything. writing, mixing, and mastering (Iβm still learning so theyβll be my all rounders)
Sound preference: as accurate/neutral as possible (donβt want coloration or artifacts)
Comfort: very important (I spend hours wearing them)
Portability: not needed (just for home studio use)
Isolation: strong isolation + no sound leakage is a must
Setup: plugging straight into my PC (no amp yet, but open to one if itβs worthwhile) - if motherboard matters: MSI PRO B760M-A WIFI
Genre: Dancefloor Drum & Bass (EDM) - If it helps at all I can provide a track or 2 so you get the feel of what it is.
DT700 Pro X if you are willing to EQ
I've asked afew places to try get different suggestions but there's also other stuff that's been mentioned (closed backs generally having trade offs) but I'd proabbly keep my 600s for mixing / mastering given needing privacy when writing.
I was suggested afew pairs (Dt770pro/880pro/990pro, slate vsx, ath m50x, hd 620s, Sony mdr 7506, Fiio FT1)
I was also told to avoid 770s/990s as theyre not made for producing, another person vouched on that and said he hates his.
I was hoping to get something I can just plug in and use, like I had done with my current pair
Seems interesting.. some also recommend Logitech G432, whats the stance on them?
Oh good luck with that. Cheap closed backs are usually not neutral at all.
They always have some weirdness
Everything in your list has
How fiddly are they? Because I haven't got a clue what I'd be doing π
Honestly. If you are serious about music producing. It'd be a good idea to EQ your headphones.
I want to be, but again, I have no idea what I'm doing on that side of things.
Then I'd suggest IEMs
They are tuned quite good for not that much money
Do you need your closed back for mixing too? Or just games and music? @umbral charm
That changes what to get quite a lot
I wanted a pair that I could just use for everything but at the same time I could just use my 600s for mixing/mastering and then closed backs for writing everything.
I wanted studio monitors but I can't because of privacy, people being too loud (you get the point) - but that's also why I wanted to look into closed backs
But quickly realised they come with trade offs
HD620 gives really good sound isolation
Honestly not a bad pick
Yeah that was one pair I was suggested tbf
They come up to 279
Can get them for 245
Ive also seen amps mentioned afew times, would I benefit from one at all?
None of the headphones you've mentioned are particularly hard to power so they should all be usable with your basic computer audio
If you think that your headphones are too quiet or you hear weird noises then yeah get a DAC or an amp
But otherwise there's no reason to get one without testing how the headphones are gonna interact with what you have right now.
Yeah that's fair
I like my hd600s tbf, just some cases stuff comes off really harsh. Like if I open an instance of serum, just a basic saw wave is quite harsh so I tend to turn them down or just avoid playing one
Makes my ears ring
Just placed the order for them. Hopefully I can make music in peace when they arrive π
I don't think better source equipment will fix that.
wdym, just get a darker sounding amp/dac
It's a non-issue anyway, not like Im gonna have that always playing so it's fine
The goal is literally just to block out more sound from around me, and have less audio leak to them
I will say that the 620s are one of the best isolating headphones I heard at the convention
Not really the best sounding, but you can always use parametric EQ to remedy that
Ill have to come back and ask about that then. I have no idea what I'd need to do to make sure theyre sounding how I need them to
But that's really good news π
Will I even be able to plug both pairs of headphones into my pc? if motherboard matters to help, I've got the msi pro b760m-a wifi ddr4
Just want to make sure I'll easily be able to switch between the 2 and not have to unplug them to swap
Once you get over the hurdle of finding something that can do parametric eq, it's pretty easy.
I've got proq if that means anything
Idk anything about music production



