#audio-tech
1 messages Ā· Page 156 of 1

yeah that blue shelf is hilarious
Yea after making all those adjustments the over all volume is reduced
The high pass filter is just raise it back to normal
it's LITERALLY the embodiment of drawing a circle by first drawing the mona lisa
remember when we talked about digital clipping
no you do that through a positive pregain
not by a fucking shelf
having a positive pregain in eq is like
but because you have positive gain
That doesnt work properly like I thought either
you're gonna be clipping if any music you play is remotely close to 0dbfs
Infact I would be rasing the whole profile lmao
APP GIF
this has been one of the most notably cursed days in this channel
Ugh you havnt heard the damm thingš
THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT
What are we even arguing about
this guy thinks he's not clipping with that eq
i dont think i can love myself anymore
Im not deaf
More power to him.
Its doesnt clip..
how
If someone's clipping or not clipping in the privacy of their own home who cares
Genuinely
Yea
what is the gain
By not exceeding the actual peak limit
oops lmao
and how are you testing that?
@haughty girder LOSER š«µš¤Ŗ
what is the negative preamp set to
Getting worshipped
No distortion...
no

that's not how you test that
what
you bum
and you had like 10 fucking layers of harmonic distortion
beyond saving
what the fuck do you mean you have no distortion
you posted this literally 10 minutes ago
what is this
I didnt say there was non
Its just not very audible and sounds decent
also I'm not profiling but this explains a lot
@haughty girder help me with today's connections
its 15dB below output level
I'm stuck
tf is a din
It's like noisy
Noisy noise
your test is stupid
Fine ill go make an audio test since you think this EQ jist sounds like crap

It will jist be me switching eq on and off
Unless you can do a frequency sweep it's not gonna tell us anything
id be impressed if you made it worse than what bt speaker ship with
Listen for the difference
but then again we saw the charts
Sound demos are useless
I'm sorry I can't help here
I literally guessed
through a phone speaker
I don't know what half these things are
Headphones...
i meant microphone
you gave me brain damage
S21 mics are good
it's acc so cooked I guessed din bear gummy bear teddy bear
then I switched teddy with one cause I was like surely that's to throw me off
and I got it
and I don't know what any of it is
My mics can hear up to 23khz and down to 32hz and compression doesnt change the actual audio curve much at all
and how did you test this
Just played a 22khz tone through this speaker
And opened the app
upper end of your mic says nothing about its linearity
we arent concerned with hearing 23khz
how are you testing beyond 20khz
This isnt true
i was right
Its as simple as that
its this easy
LOSER MORON IDIOT š«µš¤¬
next time you are doing stupid buzfeed tests you should try being a bit like me
creep
A knuckle dragging troglodyte who eats his own feces?
LOSER
no a dashing intellectual that can decipher any mystery at a moments notice
if you are so good how come you lost
it doesnt actually its fine
sennheiser users when you introduce them to 60hz
blessing of good audio uh i get to not listen to much music for a week or two and then i get to go back to old songs and they sound insane since i need to listen to ANYTHING but it also just is perfect nearly
grr i still wish my amp had more power but oh well ill run to the thrift store today and see if theres anything exciting
its only an issue in like less than 10% of the music that i choose to listen to but grr still
curse of it really shouldnt go above 0 but alas it does
best speakers for 100 (white, 3,5mm wired, clean look, low and high frequency speakers(if not 2.1), nice sound, for general usage). Do y'all have any recommendations, if so i would be happy:)
@lusty spindle what do u think ab the mr4s?
š
could try a thrift store uh thats where id take my 100$
what they could have
What is a good XLR microphone for cheap
Main use where quality matters is going to be recording keyboards
ever since crinacle pointed out in one of his videos that with a really good audio setup most people unintentionally have their volume much higher than neccesary, Ive been slowly getting used to lower and lower volume. He was totally right, once i got used to it, 20% is plenty of volume for listening to music on windows and can still sometimes be too much. Just thought id share my findings and remind everyone to protect their hearing because its finite!
life is finite too sometimes you can gamble which you think is gonna go out first
also low volume is nice but grr bass that you can feel is nice too
if you die tomorrow youll have wished you played your music louder,,,,
thats how i run it
within reason
But some middle-late aged people also wish they should've played their music less loud
right on. I'm just thinking about my future
i had a NEEWER that was pretty good for the price. you'll need a discrete power supply though
Where does he say thsi
I wonder how loud you had it
totally agree with good headphones or good speakers its much easier to listen at lower volumes you dont need to turn up the volume so much to get more detail
i used to listen at 40-50%
precisely
do you have a decibel meter
nah but it was def over 80
now i listen at more like 65
just going by feel
i have a watch that can measure decibels but it's Z weighted not A weighted
ignorance is bliss when it comes to extracting a number out of my headphones i feel
for db*
maybe im damaging my ears at my current levels but ill never know >:3
i thjink the only way is to use speakers and measure
depends on how cheap
if you're looking for a do-it-all mic
I'd say SM57
it's decent to good for everything
not the best at anything, but I've seen gigs where they just use like 10 sm57s on stage
for drums and amp and allat
can anyone answer some questions about frequency/sample rate? I know that its mostly pointless beyond 48K but im curious to see why i have so much issue using the higher settings for my speakers and headphones
because most of your audio is in 48khz
your system tries to upscale it to the samplerate you set
If you are getting artifacts then you might need to use a bigger buffer
and a higher sample rate in professional applications introduce a lot more delay so your system can struggle to keep up
cant set one in windows
thats the fun part
lol
i did that when i used voicemeeter
i presume thats where the question is coming from
usually there is some way to
i mean it worked, but i was also trying to reduce the number of programs i have running in the background
in your devices drivers or whatever app you are using
so i tried using windows settings
with something like voicemeeter hijacking audio drivers yeah but base windows no I don't believe so
voicemeeter is great but it didn't always work
the real solution is just use normal samplerates intended for reproduction
@spare rune essentially there isn't a reason to go beyond 41khz if you want to have lossless audio and no reason at all to go above 48khz because that is the standard
go for 48 because thats what everything uses, more or less causes upsampling/downsampling typically
upwards of that is used in studio applications to have headroom for your tracks
so you can stretch edit and manipulate your recordings without having less fidelity and artifacting
no current triple A games or anything use anything higher? i mean obviously not COD but maybe games where sound design is more important?
that makes sense
you like
physically cannot hear it
thats the thing
41khz was the decided norm for lossless playback after a lot of research went into what humans can actually hear
40.000 samples for the audio
and 100 extra samples for maybe if you have need for a headroom
hence 41khz
thats 2 samples for every frequency you are capable of hearing as a human
kinda seems like how some people want 480hz frame rate when it starts to get less noticeable a difference the higher you go
eventually it wont be noticeable anymore
48khz is already like, an overkill if you look at what people can actually hear and cant
and upwards of that is straight up silly for audio reproduction
its exclusively for studio use
alright well i guess i learned something
its like
people have a hard time telling 360 and 400hz refresh rate on monitors apart
and you are asking about a 40000hz monitor vs a 192000 one
thats fair
ill just keep em down then
i had gotten it to work with voicemeeter but it didn't play well with icue anyways
yeah, you'd be a study case if you could hear between 192 and 48khz honestly
then wait
why on earth did they start releasing master level quality on music platforms
if no one can hear it

i think on tidal they do
no
on tidal they scam people by saying they sell lossless then they send their proprietary mqa recordings
LMAO
yeah i dont use it anymore, havent for a long time. most of the stuff wasnt even available at that quality anyways, they just used it for marketing
if you were to get lossless recording and compact it to 320kbps mp3 which is considerably lossy you would see how small of a difference there is
most people cant tell them apart at all depending on the song
there are plenty of people who can hear the difference but it takes going out of your way to focus on testing them, no one really notices it if they aren't doing critical listening
its physiologically impossible to hear any difference because you can't hear frequencies above 24 khz
so yeah its just a way to make more money by placebo
yeah definitely heavily reminds me of the FPS debate
i mean yes latency but if they just improved latency and didnt actually increase frame rate it wouldn't be any different
most of the time the "clarity" from higher refresh rates comes from reduced ghosting due to the rate of update and like you said, the latency
conceptually you'll have less latency because the frame you're waiting for lasts shorter
triple buffering can help massively on the other end though
but that can be achieved by focusing on reducing only latency, not by just increasing the frame rate
its not actually the increased frame rate that looks better, its the reduced latency that occurs as the byproduct of the increase of frames
that is true
how would you reduce only latency without increasing the framerate
one way is improving the speed of data transfer
not the only but thats one
do you mean the latency of the display itself?
that and the actual travel time through the cable. optical will probably make its way into the display field eventually
I'm just mainly thinking about the latency of having to wait 16.6 ms for the next frame to happen at 60 hz, vs like 4 at 240
also the refresh ability of the monitor to clear the image from the previous frame more clearly
I think that's a lot larger than the output latency
Its ok
this is sample rate not frequency range
i think you confused them
wild news me and my bf decided that it wasnt unreasonable to go 50/50 on a new amp for just a "home stereo" so were getting one of these but for cheap itll be cool https://www.ebay.com/itm/225842662144
did someone in specific recommend it or did you just see the aluminium finish
i came across a nice marketplace deal
marketplace my beloved
i do want something 70s-80s though
although theres a sony es witht the cool wood panels from the 90s but its a little out of budget grr
how much are you paying for this
shooting for under 150 total
i may have also received notice that someone offered more than me so i might have to find something else
probably will have to since i woulda gotten it for 120 but oh well
go ask the dudes in sonic visions for vintage recommendations in that budget
vintage amps are super hit or miss, id go for specific models that people have previously used or inspected the schematics of
i think most things made at that time look incredible
sound comes second since it really cant sound that bad if its a reasonably piece of equipment
mmhm its insane but its good
i gotta get some wood treatement stuff to see what it does to my old wood stuff
it could maybe apparently look a lot nicer and it would be cool
oh also ive only heard two 70s receivers but theyve both ended up being my main one for x period of time that i owned them for
my current one is only a 20wpc though so it runs out of power occasionally when im making it fight to power my headphones but otherwise it does good
Who said anything about frequency response
I only saw the part about the sample rate
well you said humans cant hear above 24khz
in reply
but that's what the sample rate causes
no?
increasing samplerate doesnt mean you increase the upper frequency limit in a recording
What do you think it does
vanadium doesn't let me bypass the cert
provides more samples per frequency
no it isnt
you can use it for that
but in 99% application thats not science use
no one uses 192khz samplerate for that
that doesn't do anything
its not stair steps
have you ever read what windows says next to the 192khz in captions
studio quality
I thought we were talking about audio playback though?
he asked what it was for
I answered
no one uses 192khz for upper hearing limits outside of science
I didn't see that
here
then the conversation derailed into that
This was just the part I saw
So that's why I responded with that
Most people are probably buying tidal to listen to it not to do remastering or editing
i mean its literally meant for studio use
and most lossless tracks are rated at 41khz to 48khz
they blatantly lie in their marketing saying it sounds better than 48khz
with fake diagrams
What do you guys think of the xm5's ANC?
It kind of seems lack luster
maybe im expecting too much
It can't really block out the annoying mid range to high frequencies
Hi, I need some help to get new headphones.
If anyone can, please help me at #peripherals
im looking for tws iems for like 70ā¬
the nothing a1 buds are available at a price like that right now, should i get them or are there others that are more worth it?
is sennheiser hd560s a good upgrade from my philips shp9500?
probably yes
I like listening to music or podcasts while in the shower (can't have a bath as a precaution for my epilepsy), and I had a bluetooth shower speaker (generic chinese BTS-06 that is all my local Asda sells under their own brand) that I put on the soap tray as I could never get the suction cup to work to put it on the wall, and having it on the edge of the bath or the windowsill was too quiet for me over the noise of the water. It stopped working this week and it seems like water finally made its way in (I can see white dust on the PCB after opening it up and there was still water under the buttons over 24h after last using it).
I'm trying to locate something slightly better quality shower speaker that I can use, either that sits outside the bath, or is suitable to have inside the bath. Is IP67 alright or should I be using IP68 for this purpose as it will get hit by the water if the suction cup fails. Does anyone have recommendations?
(I'll probably be elsewhere when you reply, so do ping me please or I won't see it)
i need some help. i already got the Focusrite Vocaster One from a friend since my Scarlet solo 2 fried itself and my mic qwq.
I need a new mic. i currently cant afford anything too expensive (i had the shure SM7B from a friend before) and im currently looking at the beyerdynamic M70 Pro X. Is it a good choice or rather not?
Do you want wireless or wired?
they're kinda similar, yeah
good luck getting earpads though
the 560s is wider, less bright, a little more natural sounding
not nearly the increase it should be for 3x the price
id say so yeah
wireless (as said "tws")
Yes
yes as in i should get them?
They are good. I tried them before. A bit bass heavy. But still
heard aswell theyre bass heavy but not too muddy
ill order them, should arrive tommorow
they look cool aswell
check out realme buds air 5 pro
if you dont mind chinese tws that is
well air 6 pro is there but the only difference is +5db ANC
aww, for an upgrade i was actually hopeful for getting a slightly significant change
my other option rn is the dt770 pro but that's a slight diversion from the sound signature i enjoy
significant, just not half in scale with the kind of changes you see between other headphones
e.g the hd560s could be seen as a $120 shp9500
or the shp9500 a $150 hd560s
the difference between an m20x and m50x looks much larger
or hd280 pro vs neumann ndh20
do you want to explode
nah but a weird interpretation of the target could be used instead
have it shelve up 9db max, let it still roll off towards 20hz, and slightly boost the midbass more than the target
I do this for the mc450
rip bozo
poor seal
other reviewers measured them without such substantial drop in bass
i've also worn 510bt and i can also say they don't have such roll-off in bass which have similar'ish sound profile
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Speaker-System-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07D93Z6ML/ref=sr_1_6
Im looking into getting a 2.1 setup on a tight budget. Are either of these a good value?
The award-winning, THX-certified ProMedia 2.1 computer/gaming speakers are the perfect match for any desktop. But more importantly, this compact, three-piece setup delivers high-quality sound that puts some home theater systems to shame. Music, Movies, TV, Gaming, Klipsch ProMedia.
Troublesho...
the klipsch is a bit out of my budget but if its worth it...
honestly considering going used and jerry rigging something if that yeilds better results
The promedias are way better than the logitechs. if you're patient they go on sale pretty often
ive seen them as low as $70 at walmart but that was a few years ago
logitech makes shit speakers you should never pay more than $20 for any logitech speaker
that's what i thought too. but i had a buddy who had a logitech sub that actually sounded really nice but i never got the model number
i can assure you the promedia is better
i believe you
and i don't doubt it
i know klipsch has a good reputation
they have an okay reputation
they're like. at the higher end of what people can expect from best buy but most of their speakers are kinda meh compared to the stuff you can buy online or at speciality stores
hey guys, i am currently in the market for some wireless headphones for gaming
they need to have good sound and atleast a decent mic (just enough to be able to vc with friends, i dont stream or anything)
preferably also some good build quality so they dont shatter if i drop it once
lets say any price is fine as long as the product makes up for that price
any suggestions?
Hello!
I picked up a cheap mic (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNGKZ9D) 5 years ago (I was young and ignorant and saw something cheap) and it's always been really quiet. I've lived with it though. I recently started recording videos and the audio quality seems to be a bit unstable due to my 1995% gain boost in OBS. It is an XLR connector, so I was wondering if getting a simple Audient EVO 4 (a lot of people seem to like it for its simplicity, functioning quality, and price) to use as an interface and preamp would help clean out such a high gain boost because it'd use hardware for the gain instead.
And example of the instability of my current mic setup shows sometimes, like in the following video (https://youtu.be/o6xKTsl0H4M&t=142) (at the set timestamp) when I say "I don't know." It seems to be from the lack of a downmix from stereo to mono on my microphone audio input, but it seems that the lower speaking volumes causes the audio to still get wonky. Still wondering if a proper preamp/interface would help mitigate that. (Also, the high gain causes a light static. Can be heard most when I'm not talking.)
Now, if I do get that EVO 4, which microphone would be good for about $100 USD? I see many people in this chat suggest the XM8500, SM58, and AT2020. My desk is in the living room of an apartment, so I don't exactly have a quiet place to record. Currently, the cheapo condenser microphone I have picks up just about everything in the apartment. Any suggestions? (Keyboard and mouse are also not the best, so they make some noise. Also my PC fans can get a bit noisy.)
Edit: I've also heard that the SM58 with the SM7B's RK345 Windscreen can help a lot with plosives compared to the SM58's default ball shaped... thing.
Thank you!
2 fosi mono v3 or 1 nc502mp for 2 ohms load ?
You would be WAY better off with a new microphone rather than shelling out money trying to improve the bad one you own
And if you want to buy a 100$ EVO 4 then a 100$ microphone, I'd advise not, you don't need a 100eur audio interface
I'd rather have a good 50-70eur XLR 48V phantom powered mic, a 40-60eur audio interface (power, gain and ADC) and put what's left in a better and good boom mic arm, because you may not believe but the arm is to me the most important thing once you have a good enough XLR mic / audio interface (which you don't)
Or just a good USB microphone, but still with a good mic arm
Anyway, don't shell out 100eur in a Audient EVO 4
I mean, mic wise, i've seen SM58's on ebay for, sub 40 anyway. so i could possibly do that instead of buying new?
Plus, i dont mind spending a bit. nor do i mind seeing if i can get something a bit better out of what i have (despite its cheap nature), knowing i can use the interface for something better mic wise in the future. im not strapped for cash, or else i wouldnt be getting anything in the first place, but if you have any reccomendations for a mic/interface, do tell.
I dont' have any recommendations since I don't live in the US but yes buying used is a really good idea
And if you do want to spend money on the whole setup, sure, but please also spend on the accessories like a good boom arm, believe me it's way more important
im in the market for some wireless headphones, and a big point for me is the mic quality, do you guys have any recommendations?
wired mic š
Bump for suggestions/recommendations?
yeah... imo iems at 100 won't do that
their soundstage is not good
Ngl I can go up to 200
I can do over ears too
hd560s
well, if you're purely looking for directional and spacious sound i wouldn't get iems and for openness... i would basicly throw them out of window as an option
unsure about iems at 200 rn that have very good instrument separation
i recommend if you can the older version with longer cable and better padding
but the new version is still good for the price, especially if you want less treble
$230 for something fighting with $30 headphones for instrument separation
you can't buy new earpads for the hd560s. at least not the originals, which are important to keep the sound
I think by gamer standards iems are gonna be great
my truthear reds work great in Minecraft even without fancy hrtf simulation or anything
what are your choices below 200
as for headphones
Are the Sony WH-1000XM6s any good?
Or should I save a bunch and get the XM5s, or something else entirely?
I'm still using the XM4s, lasted a good 2.5 years now, and have been pretty decent
Only real issue's been that the headband's beginning to degrade
I agree
They're a steal at that price and if you're used to gaming headphones it should be a huge upgrade even in games
I like the zero 2
there are still things $50 razers do better though
such as instrument separation
not by a lot tho
or cloud core with imaging precision
all of the headphones under $200 are choices if they're available and there's no criteria
if you mean headphones I personally find worth my money, for my use cases and preferences,
then mc450, r50x/m50x, and maybe dt880 600r I could all make a good case for
plenty of cheaper stuff, though ones I'd actually use each day if needed is probably limited to the lyxpro has15 modded
What headphones under $100 should I get to use with a PS5
depends are you looking for just headphones or are you looking for a headset with mic
No mic
For around $70 the Senheiser HD 400s are a solid option
Is it a trs plug
3.5mm TRRS i believe
I need it to be TRS
Why and TRS is referring to the the signals it can transmit if ur looking for PS5 that'll work fine
My mic won't work with trrs
Oh are u trying to plug it directly into the mic
No
I just need TRS plug
Gotcha I'm assuming u need 3.55 and not 1/4
Yes
Could also try the Audio-Technica ATH-M30x tons of positive reviews people like those alot but also the Senheiser I recommended before is just a 2.5 to 3.5 detachable cable so you could always replace it the only reason it's TRRS and not just TRS is it had an inline remote with mic like alot of earbuds but u can change that out like I mentioned
daft punk doin' it right absolutely humbles my hd599 XD
it can't even hit the lowest parts
my 40$ IEMs totally handle the lows tho
any suggestions for an upgrade from the 599s that can go lower without losing clarity?
i cant stand muddy bass XD
ive been considering a budget 2.1 speaker setup to solve that issue
it's easier to do this with eq on a headphone with already tight bass
the hd560s definitely isn't that
eq would also allow you to use more sealed earpads on various open backs for much higher bass efficiency
i already have the crinacle EQ with peters equalizer on them
they sound good
ohhh
i see what you mean now
ngl i also just want to get this nice klipisch 2.1 set deal i saw for 150
which one
Most sennies aren't really for bass, some can handle it most in my opinion are mediocre at it
That's not true, a lot of options sub 100$ especially these days, heck CCA CST was a miracle sub 20$ when it came out, still in some ways it does things that barely any other IEM does, though that wouldn't be my go to solution for someone new to IEMs
My personal favorite is NF Audio NA2, HiFiGo has the best price at least for EU folks. Generally they will do great for gaming even though they are more for enjoying music. But generally if you open like Linsoul, Shenzhen Audio or HiFiGo, most options you see there will do mostly fine for gaming, I'd look for a few reviews before buying them so you understand what you're getting into, but these days even something like Tangzu Wan'er beats options that were selling 250$+ in 2016
iām talking about soundstage, immersion, imaging, instrument separation, etc. not just sound/ frequency response
yes itās true iems have ass immersion.
Best ive heard on those fronts are the index earspeakers, then iems, my favorite are my novas, but after oodles of eq, I find the PRX to be quite nice too
What have you tried?
kz $10 junks, truthear red, novas as well recently
And what headphones do you find the Nova to be inferior to? (Since that's our only common iem)
$20 modded hd681 , he400se, hd560s, oneodio monitor 80, jbl tune 5xx/7xx series
what i would say is worse than iems in terms of immersion are turtle beach headphones for example
I used 400se and 560s
I found both to be far less positionally accurate
maybe just my head but iems sound like theyāre inside my head and trying to create an affect theyāre not
iām not arguing with that
Wait so wdym?
the music/sound like itās coming from your head
What I mean by this is the direction sounds come from is far more accurate on the novas than either the 400se or 560s were
Mfw the things that are less than an inch from my ears sound like they're less than an inch from my ears
That's where games come in with hrtf and other audio magic
thatās putting a band-aid over the issue
Other way around imo
yes, with iems i can tell from where the sound is coming from and estimate the distance, but they still sound like itās coming from my head
If a sound is meant to sound like a sound from a point, your iems are able to reproduce that more accurately than the headphones can, are the iema not more accurate?
You can always add reverb if you want, but you can't really add accuracy via software or hardware...
i mean i don't want a ton of bass. I just want my speakers to be able to play the full range of the songs I listen to
i know the sennies aren't known for their bass
but their clarity is too notch
the promedias
some iems manage to not do it idk how
Like my truthear reds do not sound like they're in your ears
its super obvious when I switch to the zero:2
I actually had issues with both of these too
400se because planar and getting wacky/random with imaging
560s because it's very hard to tell when something's behind me in most games
there's a design advantage with most open backs over most iems in terms of how much of the ear geometry interfaces with the sound
the hrtf of that person's ears gets partially used to control tonality and delays and such
iems have to achieve this through generalizations and ultimately luck
though they can still be completely capable of precise imaging
for the universal control, during installation, it gives me the option to insall bunch of USB drivers, do i need to or should i only keep the studio USB drivers checked due to me only having the 24c?
yeah the he400se is wack
I'm looking for a new headset that is $60 or under any suggestions
That very much depends on the IEM, something like the cheapest KZs aren't good at it, but going step above it you can find a decent variety
I would go up to $80
I just want something better than my old steelsseries arctis 1s
Chat, what's your verdict on the new Sony 1000XM6?
cloud 2
I haven't used an arctis 1, so I have no idea which areas are hard or easy to beat, neither if those areas are relevant to beat based on your preferences and use cases
i'll let you know when i find 448$ on the ground
holy shit that is expensive
From what can be seen, XM5 style and material choice with XM4 level of foldability and portability?
no great sound review atm
you pay for anc, not for great sound
It's generally competing with something you can get with cat ears for 20$
IMO, not worth upgrading from my WH-1000XM3's, but maybe worth it if you don't yet have a pair.
how hard would it be to make a "instrument" (piano like) with a MOS Technology 6581 sound chip (x2 for 6 channels if possible) and have it programable with tuning? more of how much would it cost.
tbh i wanna try making music with the c64 audio chips, i just love the sound but i need something affordable but i want tuning options , I'm not smart enough (yet) to make my own board and setup/softwhere
Google c64 vst or 6581 vst
18 dollars. Hopefully they dont sound bad
Says "broadcast", but from what i remember of broadcast radio and tv, that might imply the sound quality is shit because the broadcast is gonna sound subpar anyway
Between the audize maxwell and logitech pro 2 wireless, for pvp, mmo, survival type games which is better cause I have alot of the logitech eco system already getting a different type means more software
I fucked up 
yeah that connector sucks
that's some bit of chipped plastic
Buy some pins?
Ill just get a new cable
And tweezers
I had them next to me in bed and I fell asleep and rolled over
which iems are those
I/O volare
There are iems 5x the price that use 2 pin too
some variations
but letting the pins to be exposed or without casing is asking them to be snapped when the device is a wearable
you want this on a properly designed connector for wearables
atleast
or redesign it entirely
Yea i think some companies do that but others prefer to keep their stuff compatible with aftermarket cables
5 feet deep, and a threaded retaining pin
The round connectors are less popular but probably wouldn't break like this
atleast make the pins shorter bruh
if i would break accidentally such braindeadly designed connector i think i would blame the design because it should've been more thought-through

are they sure that connector wasn't supposed to be used internally?

I think they make them like that so you can use any 2 pin aftermarket cable because the amount out recession isn't standardized
good point but doesn't change fact that it just sucks as a connector, maybe equip iems with two connectors? but would probably introduce other design issues
2 pin is the most common but some use this mmcx
Seems less prone to breaking off inside
Looks like it costs 50 dollars more
i'd take this over 2pin all night and day
uhh you can buy them for about 2 bucks
You can pivot thr mmcx ones too
Did they repurpose a uFL connector?
micro mino coax. I was pretty close
Good news. My headset works. Bad news. I'll probably never use it...
@cyan sapphire a redesign like this would be maybe nicer and still compatible with most aftermarket 2 pins
Yeah or a sheath kind of thing thats just structural
yes but i want physical items
hey i was going to get the sennheiser 560s because theyāre 100$ right now and a couple months ago were close to 200 but its got me thinking, is there anything better for 100$?
and should i even consider IEMs? i mostly play games and listen to music casually
i think that is a good purchase
100 is a very decent price
nah this wouldn't work at all
use the entire connector for reinforcement, don't add more pins that can break
yes my example wasnāt the best but even adding three pins worth of material would make the connector significantly tougher to break
also i thought of cables that would not have the casing would wiggle too much when the cableād be fully seated in iems
i made that example that would be probably be not so wiggly and would work with aftermarket connectors
anyways enough of my yapping
mmcx is kinda fragile
mmcx kinda sucks
grrrr curse of i cant get a high wattage amp for my headphones
i bought one today its powerful it woulda done good but the pcb was cracked so i fixed it and im still out one channel
and its 80s plastic so it comes apart like garbage
but its like a near totl 125wpc so i also kinda feel like i have to give it some love
and also that one channel that does work does sound fairly nice so i want it
i forgot to say uh its a sansui a1230 its ugly as hell but i do think its really fancy i believe in it
its also insanely heavy and has a fancier circle shaped transformer
and most of its lights are out and anything that can be pulled off the front has been
grr i wish it was that easy
you could have checked this before buying
most of the wires on the inside are NOT connectors and the main panels are uh the top and bottom/the u shaped front and sides all one piece held onto the rest of the chunk by a billion old wires
it powered on that was good enough for me
thrift store grr
i dont wanna bring stuff there since they might think im stealing
old amps do be that way
mmhm tragically
and i mean maybe i dont wish for uh 40 year old plastics
no i still blame you dont get me wrong
but grr still
this was probably unique because it wasnt that
iirc it came out in 1982 so they coulda
Oh it's got a headphone jack. I thought you were some psycho who plugs their headphones into speaker terminals
mmhm yeah i almost exclusively use receivers for my headphones but man they do such a good job
dedicated headphone amps are expensive and the first time i got one it didnt sound as good as some of my receivers so i ended up giving it away and i dont regret it that much
and also receivers are more fun :3
Wonder if you're just used to a bad quality headphone output with high impedance
i might be but i dunno i also eq a lot and the extra power helps a lot
i enjoy it though a lot and some people like my setup a lot and some people dont but it works good :3
my main amps only a 20wpc though and itll occasionally max out the vu meters and distort but rarely but i can make it do that reasonably ish
grr i want this thing to work a lot more than i do my average broken item
i think its because i paid money for it though
me?
speaker tap it
the resistance on the headphone sockets on vintage amps is typically insane
fucks with the frequency response
try speaker taps and if there is ground noise make an attenuator box, costs you like 4 resistors
maybe but also im pretty happy with what i have
but some day i will probably build that contraption
my resistors are probably like 1/2 watts or 1/4 watts or something so i dont know if theyre up for it but it could happen
and i dont feel like bunching together a bunch either
it takes 1 minute
one day,,
bro is afraid of having good audio in his life
Calculate Headphone Attenuation Resistor Values
non inductive thing is like a cope btw
dont go paying 20$ for a non inductive resistor
ill get around to it maybe one day ill see
Which one did you get? Nowadays for 150⬠or less you can get amps that have basically no flaws as long you have enough power. Which should be the case for 99.9% of headphones at normal volumes
Got new speakers and new power amp
It's really amazing, though I really need to set up room correction
Just for reference the TV is 65", those speakers are HUGE lmao
What low spec program should I use for changing keys and bpm of audio
schitt modi
or magni grr
the cheap common small plain one
either way though i didnt like the sound of it as much as my older 70s stuff
I have a magni, tbf it's highly unreliable and the first versions were really bad sound-wise
Mine has broken like 3 times!! Hopefully I have micro soldering gear and repaired it
Those speakers lead me to believe that you need a 75inch tv at least
I do, a 77" LG G5 oled haha
G series eh, nice
Still rocking an older LG IPS (circa 2021) for my big 75" display, if only because it gets a LOT of abuse
Something to be said for some good speakers though, always painful to see a bunch of nice equipment and two tiny speakers that probably don't have drivers any bigger than the headphones sitting next to them.
Is this a safe way to control the 12V trigger in my receiver?
So that it comes on with my PC
cable
Yeah people have started to give attention to audio in the pc world, but I feel like only for headphone
I know a guy who has a dx3 pro+ and a hifiman Arya and is always raving about how it sounds so good.... But watches movies on the freaking TV sound??????
the built in tv speakers are better than some soundbars tbh
Just buy a reciever from Goodwill
So question
What would be a good fathers day gift? Dads been hinting he wants some earbuds and I'm looking for a nice premium pair.
what is that š
5k earbuds that have a wait list
Unless those come with a built in forcefield or anti gravity they are not worth it
9 drivers
Yeah can I get realistic suggestions? Like normal fathers day suggestions XD
Limit is 300
give a realistic budget
its built out of titanium apparently
ah
I have a great $25 to $50 anecdote otherwise idk
Check out the Meze Alba.
Even if they were made out of adamantium no earbuds are worth 5k
yes but a father's love is priceless
You pay for my dads love then XD
Why put a $5k price tag on it then
So any suggestions for
300$ limit headphones
WIRELESS
Type c charging.
Black
....crap does he have an iPhone
there's another clone that's supposed to be good from that one android company but I forgot the name
80...90% sure he has android
Like everyone else in the family
The most I ever paid for a phone is 400
airpods are legitimately good honestly
you get locked out of some features on android but it may still be the better choice
im unsure what else to recommend here thats wireless
It doesn't really help that the high-end of non-headphone audio goes into car-priced crap with gilded doorknobs.
My most expensive headphones for PC was 200
Think I'm at about 1.5k in audio gear for my setup, between the speakers, dac, amp, interface and mic.
Damn
shrug Stuff accumualted over the years.
Upside to non-integrated audio solutions is building it out piece by piece over time, and being able to do the same when upgrading parts
what ?
You know it's not true for everything lmao
Nor is it never the case for headphones
There are multiples 4 grands + (up to 50) headphones
Headphones yea, not so much. Speakers? Plenty of 100k+ options
Yeah well it's not because there are options at 100k that it means there is nothing at reasonable prices
Though it sure is a bit more expensive
Yea, and the reviews are a LOT less helpful when choosing compared to things we can actually objectively benchmark consistently.
I use audiosciencereview, audioholics and erin audio review
Those are objective measurements
ASR has its moments for sure. Good measurements for dacs especially.
they use klippel thingy that allows to remove the room from the measurements
Measurements are great for making sure things don't have obvious problems, but rarely seem to dictate if we'll actually like how the damn things sound. Ribbon tweeters are a great example. Measure great. Can't stand being in the same room as one.
nothing ears are basically the same as the ear(a) but with wireless charging, a bit more app options, and a larger case, i wouldnāt consider the upgrade remotely worth it unless you are somehow getting a deal, which you clearly arenāt
iām actually not certain if this is true after a bit of research
They aren't for me? It's a fathers day gift for my dad XD
oh sorry haha, i just saw the message i replied to
yeah get the shinier one for your dad if you end up going that route :)
an advantage of the airpods pros and nothing is that they have stem squeeze controls versus entirely just touch surfaces, and if your dad is anything like mine is definitely the type of person that gets bothered alot more by annoying/fiddly controls (combination of age and dadness)
speakers are just better in terms of raw audio quality
and after you climb the 300$ wall they are just way higher in price/performance compared to headphones
If you know what you like you can then know what measurements you don't like
Headphones cap out fast yeah, I also think that above 300⬠for a pair of headphone you start to hit diminishing returns really hard
as a 300⬠headphone owner
nah
large diminishing returns hit you after 1k
you can get sizeable upgrades up until 1k and even after for a bit
speakers idk ive not listened to any crazy expensive ones
Iāve purposely stopped myself from dumping money into audio but I would like a nicer setup
My HD560Sā and AT2020 USB have been carrying me for awhile lol
Sony XM5 ear buds
Immerse yourself in a world of sound with the Sony WF-1000XM5, a pair of bluetooth earbuds noise cancelling like no other. These ear buds are designed to provide an uninterrupted and immersive music listening experience, free from external noise. Experience astonishing sound quality with the Sony...
cmf buds pro 2 available?
Anyone here use Airpods Pro(2nd Gen) with an Android phone? I just got some and the left one's controls will randomly stop working, music still plays and the right one works perfectly, but the left one stays in the mode it was in, even if the right changes, and the touch controls stop working.
It usually fixes itself if I put them in the case and let them sit for awhile, is the right one just dying?
-# Please reply w/ pings, thanks :)
I'm gonna be with a friend tommorow who has an iPhone, would it be worth it to set them up on her phone then just repair them to mine and forget them on hers?
good luck, only pain in that direction
Not surprised a bit tbh. I got these for free from a conference I was at's raffle, and they're just so much nicer than my Nothing Ear 2s... Although those were great buds
Are the sony link buds S good now for like 100usd
Yo I need a good Headset and Microphone for streaming preferably under 5k each. Any suggestions?
Been using dt990 600ohm +g6 soundblaster
Switched to Audeze Maxwell, and I like it.
Anyone can recommend a small speaker for a pc?
I was looking at jbl but they advertise as water sand impact proof for outdoors
I do not care for outdoors, I just want sometimes to sit at pc without headphones and still get sound, and my monitor does not have the speakers, and using my headphones on high volume as speaker is not enough
.
Iāve been thinking about picking up a DAC but idk
Iām not super happy with my AT2020 USB quality, but my 560Sās are fine
Being able to easily EQ a mic would be nice
You do not need any of that
Try behringer c1 for a mic, good xlr
And some xlr interface
For headphones - whatever you like.
This should fit in like 500 usd easily
Not 5k
Well I needed g6 because my pc at the time couldnāt push 600ohm
Current motherboards should push high ohm easily
At least my current motherboard can
Oh wait no no I meant 5k INR, my mistake
impedance doesn't really tell you much, you need to look at the sensitivity too
eh?
i only know about impedance, if your soundcard cannot push 600 ohm - it cannot push 600ohm

pushing ohms
eh, technically you do not push anything, its just electromagnetic fields propagating
any of you know of a small speaker with battery for a pc?
Do not need it to be water/sand/impact proff, just smth to put on my desk and connect to pc via usb/3.5/wifi/bluetooth and use from time to time
( i asked it above a few hours ago but no answer, if i am in a wrong chat -> point me to the !wrong chat )
do you know what an ohm is
resistance of the material, sure,
and i know that you do not push ohms
there is no formula of a soundcard being unable to push or push through 600 ohms
even if I have a kilo ohm of resistance provided its sensitive enough it will produce audio
at what volume though
old pc with 600ohm headphones - audio the sound of a mosquito on a moving train
with g6 - i can deafen myself if i went above like 20% volume
the volume is literally not related to impedance
I have something that outputs 10 power that goes into something with 5 resistance and a formula of 1 power into 1 volume
10 - 5 = 5 volume
I have something on the other hand with 9 resistance but outputs 10 volume per 1 power
10 - 9 = 1 x 10 = 10 volume
i have a pair of headphones with 300 ohm and 600 ohm
and i have 2 soundcards
1 card can produce good volume in both
another card can produce volume only in 300ohm
now say it does not matter?
yes
because its related to sensitivity
you are reading one portion of the formula and completely ignoring the other
any accurate conclusions you come to are complete guesswork and wont work on a second example
or maybe it will if you are lucky enough but thats the point, your formula is completely false
one is 300 ohms and the other is 600
yet despite this the 300 ohm headphone requires 200 times the voltage
i was talking about needing an external soundcard to drive my 600 ohm headphones
and you just wanted to info dump on someone misusing the "pushing 600ohm"
congratulations, you shared your knowledge
for a normal user - get a card that can drive 600 ohm, instead of getting a pair of headphones based on their input sensitivity to "oh no" not go above 300
making sure card can drive the ohm your headphones are for - makes sure you do not get crappy sound on them
yeah and that is still completely wrong
because a headphone having 300 or 600 ohms of impedance is literally not relevant to how much power your sound card needs to output a volume
here you go this is the akg k1000
this is hd600

one is 120 ohms
one is 600 ohms
despite this I need way more power the get volume with the 120 ohm one
these are real headphones this isnt some imaginary scenario
The impedance doesn't tell you how loud a headphone will get.
Doubling the impedance will half the power the amp can deliver to a headphone. But you can have a high impedance headphone, like the hd800, that is also very efficient and requires very little overall power to get to the volume you want.
You can also have something like the hifiman susvara which has a relatively low impedance that requires much more power to get to listenable volumes.
And then compare that to something like a speaker where the impedance is 8 ohms and it requires much much much more power than almost any headphone on the planet.
imagine refusing to google sensitivity for an hour straight
imagine trying to info dump irrelevant information that nobody asked for just to show you know it?
All i did was say
i needed a g6 soundcard to push my 600ohm headphones
but you could not keep it in your pants, could you?
Stop clicking on the blocked messages
Crash out incoming

but its still not related to the headphones being 600 ohms
"irrelevant"
you just misunderstood what you need to power the headphones
and tied it to the arbitrary statistic of impedance
like dude fuck
do you stub your toe on a corner
then it rains
you think to yourself
if i stub my toe
it rains
We're info dumping because this myth of impedance determining how hard a headphone is to drive has been spread for decades now.
And we want to make sure that people are educated so they stop spreading false information.
if you woke up in the morning and had a headache then i shot your dog
do you think this is related to your morning headache or me shooting your dog
do you think id shoot your new dog if you woke up with a headache again
sure, but high impedance headphones are more likely to be less sensitive
that is why it was probably spread, as a rule of thumb (my assumption ofc)
and also i was talking about my case of needing a soundcard that could push my 600 ohm dt990
this isnt true at all though
most low impedance headphone have way less sensitivity
and most high impedance headphones have a way higher sensitivity, otherwise people would be forced into buying absurdly powerful amplifiers
I wasn't even talking to this guy he just butted in to declare his ignorance of sensitivity š
Yeah the 600 ohm dt990 needs an amp with more voltage than your average headphone amp. Correct.
But that's a correlation, not a causation. It is one of maybe ten headphones I would say "need" an amp compared to the hundreds of others that are usable with a basic headphone jack from a PC or dongle.
The Beyer dynamic headphones are a very very unique case where you can pick what impedance you want and it points to a linear trend that more impedance = more voltage needed.
But really almost every other single high impedance headphone are okay with pretty much everything.
Do you need an amplifier? How much power do you really need? And what misconceptions exist about hard to drive headphones in general?
Headphone Power Calculator: https://headphones.com/pages/headphones-power-calculator
Benchmark 'Think dB not percent': https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/application_notes/interpreting-thd-measurements-think-db-no...
This video does a good job of explaining it. It's ten minutes. There's some nerdy numbers in it but it's gonna explain it better than any of us will
beyerdynamics is probably one of the sole villain behind this dumbass myth
can't say that myself, only had crappy headphones before audeze and beyerdynamic.
Also current motherboards can give enough for a dt990, my old one was too old so it was probably diff standard back then.
What about high impedance being on average less sensitive which requires extra power?
I could just whip a quick py script to scrape a website with the list of all headphone, but i assume it must have been done before me a thousand times.
If there was never any opportunity to choose your headphone impedance it would simply not matter for 99% of people.
there you go
hundreds of headphones already listed
just click on the headphone you want to see the power rating of
actually there is like 100 maybe because the admins are lazy
still plenty of examples
you can google the impedance and sensitivity of any headphone you want to look up manually
Idk what there is on average but there's one spec (sensitivity) which translates 99% with how hard something is to power and there's another spec (impedance) which doesn't really correlate to how hard something is to power.
So looking at impedance is pretty much useless.
My sennheisers are 300 ohms and I can power them off a dongle with ease.
My AKG headphones are 120 ohms can with that same dongle they are barely listenable.
If I plug my 8 ohm speakers into that same dongle, the dongle will overheat and kill itself while making barely any volume.
There are too many exceptions to "high impedance requires extra power" to make it any worthwhile tool.
Meanwhile sensitivity explains all of these behaviors almost perfectly.
Impedance = sensitivity is a stereotype that is not very useful. It will fail about 95% of the time.
The hifiman he-5 is one of the hardest to power headphones in the world and it's less than 100 ohms.
There is absolutely no correlation between impedance (ohms) and how "hard" it is to drive
This is because in facts sensitivity should be given in dB/V/m and not Watts
As someone said here, watts depend on the impedance, thus it doesn't make a lot of sense to give sensitivity in watts, it should be in V which is constant across any impedance
Also... impedance isn't even a constant and depends on the frequency ... well I don't know how much it matters for headphones, but for speakers it does matter a lot
ok and i used db/1v to example that
literaly
I'm just saying it should have been reversed, but sure sorry
I just wanted to add a bit on top of what you guys said
Update: I used the airpods last night and a decent amount today, and I haven't had the issue once, so maybe it worked itself out 
you better be sorry
the cyberpolice are already mobilized
Building your "first" speaker is hard af
Would've been really simply if it was just a normal 2 or 3 way. In a small simple box with a regular plate amp or externally amped. But, I've chosen the most difficult route

the classic blunder
my first DIY speakers were 15" horn speakers that were the size of mini fridges
I deadass chose the hardest thing to not only build, but tune as well, as I now have 4 crossover points
No
It's kinda like Dutch and Dutch in the back with how the subs are
Amd a 3 way in the front. All sealed
I dont think the D&D have subwoofers I think those are PR's
Here's a photo the back during glue up
Well..... mine got 2 8" Subs....
nope im wrong
they're subs
neat
are you doing the funny ports to get the cardiod as well
Tbh, I didn't fully expect the first box to go all 100% well. But things went wrong here and there and now it's cascading
No, all sealed
For that transient response
Although the mid bass driver doesn't have all that volume, the subwoofers theoretically should cover that low end at its crossover point.
Any advise on my build is greatly appreciated BTW. As I'm kinda wanting to rebuild the box. Though, I'll be a waste of materials tbh
looks like you've got enough clamps and braces. use T nuts to secure the woofers to the cabinet and use some weather stripping or thin foam around the drivers to help with the box seal.
Well, it's already painted. So. Maybe if I build another pair
also do you have a DATS
Will you do active crossover? @stuck bolt
If I was going diy I'd take advantage of having full control over crossovers and I'd use a dsp to do the crossovers in the digital world then have one amp for each driver
a driver with a different coil weight is a different driver
but yes you can have a low impedance and high impedance coil be the same weight
it just isn't the same weight on the old beyer lineup
also,
headphones with x sensitivity at 1mw are not that loud at 1mw
1mw is a full scale 1khz sine wave, which is the centerpoint for dbA and perceived loudness / lufs
and that 1mw at 1khz is also a point on the frequency response of the headphones, probably on a flatplate rig
so 96db minus LUFS of the music, times frequency response weighting (maybe +2db for beyer because loud treble)
would be a good theoretical volume estimate
-7db lufs is modern day loudness war material
-36 is like a full range movie
at least for quieter parts
this is why apple dongle for hd600 is a bad stereotype. can't even come close to hearing damage territory for wide dynamic range content, sometimes too quiet to understand what's being said
though loud parts are still loud
I got two of those
What are they? @stuck bolt
Those are my powered amps for my speakers
Got an AC filter in the back, 2 500w power supplies. A 400watt amp and a 600 watt amp
Not much of a metal worker, so I kinds butchered the first one.
Hey mannyo
may i ask a question?
bascially i have a setup with 3 speakers 1 sub
but
idk how to make only the sub get bass and no sound
im using a car amp for 1 speaker and 1 sub
the top speaker and the sub is the one wired to the amp
@stuck bolt
Can I see the back of the amp
you probably need to build a crossover
or but an amplifier with a dedicated sub output
sure but i have 2 speakers and 1 sub now xD
so it is a bit messy
wait, back?
oh im dumb, thats where u can adjust volume & stuff
is that it?
The other side.
You may need to get a separate amp or crossover for the sub, to separate the HF from the LF.
ah
so i cant actually do it just like on this 2 channel?
So, if you get another amp, you can use the output at the front and go into the input of the second amp
No not really
No problem
Uh huh
also
i will be doing it with bare wires XD
cuz i dont have wires with those heads on it ^^"
That's fine...
alrighty
yeah those xD
Awesome
@stuck bolt
Yo
One sec
Somewhere out there, there is at least one person who pronounces "M-Audio" "Ėmadi.o"
I'm looking for a simple windows program for turning the midi input into sounds...soudfont2 support would be a plus
is there any way i can turn my hd560s into a wireless headset i need something that turns it wireless and also adds a good mic to it is there anyway i can do that for 100$
Are you willing to use an adapter and a patch cable?
This one if you wanna spend more money
Folks: whatās a way I could upgrade my audio setup? I currently have HD560Sā running straight from my pc, and a USD AT2020. My headphones are fine in their current state and I could upgrade them later, but Iād really like to upgrade my mic and maybe get an audio interface?
Donāt really have a budget in mind but Iām a very ābang for buckā person.
um2 is bare minimum
umc22 is the same thing but cooler and marginally better
audio interfaces btw
Whatās the price range on those?
Ah okay not bad
its a really good deal for what it is
I wouldnāt mind grabbing something more expensive if it was like a āyou can use this basically foreverā type thing
nah not really
like unless you have a legit use case they are either really marginal changes or function differences
by function i mean having like
2 inputs, buttons etc
This the one, yeah?
What connection is that mic input?
Oh itās XLR it just looks different than what Iām used to
This will 100% be for pc desktop use btw.
man audio stuff is weird. Not only do I not know what I need, I donāt even know what I want. 
With these being quite old, thereās concern online about the drivers becoming unsupported and whatnot. Is this a valid concern?
Yeah literally everything I look up about configuring it is people saying stuff not working properly cause drivers lol
