#off-topic-tech
1 messages · Page 189 of 1
And I have to fix the car up else i cannot make it road legal.
Would nerver daily it but id love a car like this for track use or something
GOT IT 🤣
is that supposed to be 250 or 250k
250
OH
Its a model
1:12 
yea just saw the scale
i ran into Bumblebee a few weeks ago
damn. too bad we have to take corners here.
sadly
it's not the corners that are the problem, it's that there's stuff on the corners
2600kg, 6.4m long, 8.2L V8
104L gas tank
you must be really old
nah
like i said, stuff doesn't rust here
and Department of Transportation just grandfathered in all the old shit & kept it on the road
my old pickup was perfectly legal even tho the gas tank sat in the cab, right behind the bench seat
seat's out, but that's the tank on the left
cool!
scary as fuck
GM's "safety" was putting a cardboard cover over it
just to make sure you'd burn faster if it started leaking
just don't let it catch fire 🤷♂️
🤣
one of my friends has the 1972 version of my truck, and he yanked that out out and put in saddle tanks & a 3rd behind the differential
I am not sure, but you seem to have more lose rules in modifying cars. They all street legal?
yup
what counts as a street legal car here is what year the chassis is, and what the laws were at the time
bruh
my "street legal" 1966 chevy pickup just needed seat belts (first year for that), a right side mirror, bumpers, headlights, and brake lights. rest is optional
Mhm, we do have some special rules for old timer cars. Not sure maybe they could get away with stuff like that.
doesn't even need doors, bed, or a hood 🤣
or airbags.
a car that wants you dead. Nice.
🤣 got rid of it for a reason
was great for what i used it for
had the "granny gear" 1st, 7.68:1, and a 4.78 rear
I don't see what good use a car is that wants to actively kill you. Fuel tank in the back with carton box over it?
was good for pulling stuff out of the ground
I see
basically a farm truck, not a commuter
yeah, worktool.
street legal tractor more than a car with a bed like they make today
mine was never this pretty, but this is what it was, same color too
so old those white things are actual hub caps & not wheel covers
hehe, that flag in the background
oh of course
nice colors that one
looks like it's in a museum from the Model T in the background
tearing it apart was like dismantling an aircraft carrier
each door was probably 100kg
sounds a bit excesive
did it ever get stuck in the mud?
not here, we don't really have mud
sand yes
probably got stuck in the mud where it came from tho, was grandpa's farm truck
it's like a tank getting stuck
would throw 3-4 full sized cows in the bed
That seems like a funny sight
there's a reason i still have an army shovel in my cars
shovel is smart. Army shovel. Not so sure 🤣
3 fold one
could you imagine throwing an american style emergency kit in the back of that M3 🤣
I would 100% do it 🤣
half medkit, half invasion supplies
you never know when i might have to dig a foxhole 🤣
now i wanna see an M3 with one of those roof mounted storage boxes
painfully american
too much shit? that's ok, just pile it into a shitbox on top of your car full of shit!
As a sidenote on the prepping, I recently got me this backpack 🤣
apparently BMW makes the cargo boxes
Car go road.
here we can buy backpacks with not just a ballistic plate, but a quick flip front plate too
No no, car needs to look good and then go road.
Yeah yeah ... I know 🇺🇸
cargo pun
here we don't have guns. So no need for plates 🤣
Still I like the modular aspect and molle principle.
definitely
and I can add patches 😄
next I want to add a pouch for my leatherman.
Just have to remember to take it off when going to festivals.
The @hacksmith makes a return to Adam's shop to bring an early sample of his new EDC product: a titanium multi-tool called The Smith Blade. James runs Adam through the almost two dozen tools packed into this lightweight chassis and explains the prototyping and manufacturing process that makes it such a pleasure to use as both a tool and fidget ...
if it wasn't $400 i'd have gone for it
i am happy with what I have atm
so much talk about bits
it's such an innocent sounding word
I'll stick with the real body armor
Also why on earth would you ever walk around with that pack on and the front armor not on... if nothing else it'll counterbalance the damn thing
Euh, sure 😛
why are you choosing to apply logic to this
also, if you pull it out, is your back still protected?
So it's double weight at the back 
and then the weight of the backpack itself + load
cuz who needs knees or a lower back
Yeah but like they way that thing just drapes down isn't really practical heh
I guess you CAN tight it down... just what I wanna be doing when the shooting starts
tying down body armor
yea, it's definitely a "take cover, gear up" thing
I don't think it's real is it.
I hope not heh
oh no it's real
seems more like a joke 🤣
But it probably is
$900
omg... but that gif seems so bad ngl
Plus no side protection options there
So good lock if they arne't like... right in front of ya
yea but also better than nothing
But that kinda money though... just get real armor heh
but yes, from a non-american viewpoint i can 100% see it as a joke
even the soft shit is better than... that
cheers, I mean no disrespect.
Most people don't really need plates but... hey if you want the weight and stiffness
But the acting and all. Something seemed off 😛
the first dude seems to even be laughing a bit.
oh it's not a problem 🤣 everyone seems to have a special brand of batshit crazy
I'm just not sure what the idea is... oh look i'm out backpacking with back armor and optional front armor
marines gonna love this shit
oh marines have the good stuff
yeah
more weight to go up and down the mountain
that it connected to your freaking backpack.
that's called character building
so you can't take it off or rebalance. Unles you put it to the front.
Maybe targeted for kids on campus at schools I dunno
yea, definitely looks more urban designed
Oh yeah, I noticed that too.
Well nobody in the country here would do anyhting but laugh at that thing lol
More for cops or something.
my high school was built as a nuclear bomb shelter 🤣
lower level is underground and reinforced
I went to pick up my friends kid from school and I felt like I was going into a prison to visit an inmate
I mean, kinda crazy you had to have that you know?
Cold War standards
had to get buzzed in, through the metal detector with a cop standing there
I was like ffs did I accidentally go to the jail...
oh yea i left scholl before the shooting stuff got really bad
I guess normal is relative to where you live.
now my old school really looks like a prison
so many kids in that office in trouble
now you got metal detectors at school entrances
for getting all pissed off about having their phone taken lol
when i was at that school our mobile phones had pull-out antennas 🤣
my school looks like a prison but i can literally just walk in and not even bother checking in to confirm im there and no one will question a thing
like it's the end of the universe or something they give them back at the end of the day... stay off the fucking thing
this is why we have people graduating that cna't fuckin read
or write
at least in no way that would be considered normal
closest incident we had was a bank robber who jumped a fence onto one of the school's fields and we had a lockdown
They had a big problem in some states, but this was decades ago, with football programs int he south
they were passing kids they they didn't get booted off the team and ruin their football shit... then they get to collect and... can barely read
i feel like we need to start denying people the existence of the internet until they're 18 🤣
our schools are pretty laid back.
to some degree the unis looked the other way as well becuase... well big money in college ball ya know
there are some areas here with some gang shit going on
this is why I always lave the house with a weapon heh
i definitely feel like i'm part of the last generation of "properly educated" people here because the internet & current phones weren't a thing
I'm one of the ones that shoots back 🙂
Sorry, but that's what every generation says.
🤣 i know
ehhh id say the same so no lol
With different words, but basically the same message. Our generation was better.
Soon all us oldheads will have to do is start writing in English cursive and using clocks with hands.
they won't be able to read shit we say or tell what fucking time it is
although im in like the last group that fits the age
oh i didn't say better, kids today are probably way better at navigating all the new stuff
Right, fair
just every generation has something over another.
but writing complete sentences? think i've got that down
There's been a tradeoff there
usual regardiding actually socializing with other humans
yea il give you that i suppose
you know... in person lol
You sure? You forgot a punctuation I believe. 😛
I mean, it's easy to let certain language rules slide 😛
although i'd probably be in the same boat as them if i had to deal with the pandemic during prime school years
And sometimes they seem to have trouble telling the difference between what they get way with in the COD lobbdy and what flies in person
tell me sister go make a sandwich out of nowhere in person and imma backhand you so hard your mother feels it
How bad is it?
Pandemic set a lot of kids here back big time as far as education
Here I think most can still write full sentences. They just lazy.
probably
I got arrested in Atlanta once and the downtown jailll I dunno about literacy
but also they'd get nailed for AI or plagiarism if they did
i lost all of middle school so not much since pie is like 90% of it
I had a BUNCH of guys getting me to tell them what the offense on their ticket was
they could not read it...
i got the good side but i can imagine loosing primary school would be a catastrophe
And most were a subset of disorderly conduct involving consuming alcohol within X feet of a store that sells alcohol
No, you cannot legalls walk out of the store and pop open your beer and start drinking it... illegal
At home ofc.
But I can see it not being of the same quality as real school
and cause some sort of setback. Must be hard for them.
It brought up some interesting scenarios like a teacher bithing about a kid with a gun rack on the wal and like a bbs gun on it
blah blah no guns at school
uhhh news flash that isn't school, that's a private home
this who educateds them... a moron
This was when basically everyone else was going back to normal anyhow and they were needlessly holding out on it. Don't like what people have in THEIR home? Get back into the classroom.
Pretty simple...
online classes are.... interesting....
if i wasent as technologically competent as i am i think this probably wouldent be an acceptable level of upkeep
this guide on how to take a screenshot is from 2006 lmao
genuis!!
if i dident know better that the snipping tool is seperate now and not in this long gone mystery folder and had minimal technology experience i think id be having a bad day rn
although i have to say its cool seeing old windows again lol
its ofc not from 2006 but still weird seeing the windows clock says 2006 so clearly very misconfigured system lmao
i mean?
figured i might as well watch the game while i watch the game while i watch the game while i watch the game...guess i could put on my quest 3 and also watch the game....
do yall use a usb dock to charge all your wireless stuff for your pc
I would need to have 3 2-meter long usbc cables running from my computer to my desk to charge everything at the same time
I have a charge hub with a pretty hefty battey charge bank that sits on top to charge
I don't dock anything... my laptop can't do networking or video... or charging on usb-c so there isn't really much in the way of docking it
tablet i only ever attack to the keyboard/trackpad case
*attach, it just snaps on at the hinge with magnets (how do they work?!)
im referring to a pc not laptop
Out here I have have a variety of smaller chargers all suitable of charging anything I own that charges that way at max speed
oh... like a hub
yeah, sort of
I dunno I have a powered USB hub on my laptop here
Can you imagine going to 3 different outlets to charge 3 different wireless things at the same time
inconvenient
But that's mostly to attach periphs and I wanted to also ensure they were powered ports all with full power... so they can charge my crap too
the more wireless stuff i buy the more i realize this
yeah, that's what im looking for as well, to charge
Well that's why I got that charge dock/station
might get one of these then
can plug in a bunch of crap in one spot heh
And like I said in my case it's the kind with the removable battery in case you need some portable charging...
And I often do heh
have you found one with a detachable cable?
Trying to remember of my base has hard wired or not lemme go look
ah yeah what i have out here basically
found this tplink one, takes a micro-B up back
but it has an attached power cable to give all ports full power for charging
well you can remove the power cable and just use it with what is supplied by that it's plugged into
depenends onw hat you're pluggin in
i picked mine up at walmart 😮
this one takes both a micro-B from your pc and a DC as well
charging is a pain int he ass in general heh
just due tot he number of devices
plus my watch has it's own wireless magnetic one lol
yeah exactly
so it's useful ONLY for that device
wireless mouse wireless headphones, the phone, even my bicycle's light now needs usbc charging
well for mice and xbox controller i use eneloop rechargable aa's when that's an option in the product
my main desktop is wired mouse, keyboad built in battery... out here i just use eneloops for my mouse and controller
i can swap those as fast as it takes me to walk across the house to grab fresh ones
remote controls too... i've saved a fortune in throw away AA's in just remotes
for flash drives... i see them for about 30USD on amazon without really looking
starting to do more cpu heavy tests and its already micro stutering so data is being delayed somewhere in the chain
my brain is microstuttering
gpu is also not displaying most of the rendered frames if present mon is acurate with that mesurement
so.... shared memory probably....
what im surprised by is despite this very consistent stutering every like 2-3 seconds the 1% lows are still perfect
what im anoyed by is that its so consistent (20 second measurement btw)
its the exact same interval between each stutter
so a 40-100 cpu/gpu usage split is stable no stuters but a 60/90 usage split stutters like hell
but its not the cpu or gpu causing it cause there both waiting at the time of the stuter on something else 
il tell you one thing cyberpunk is a darn good cpu benchmark
likely scam. It's relatively easy to make a drive that is actually e.g. 16GB but reports 512GB and they trick people often, at least for long enough for the seller to sell a bunch more and get away
its honestly such an easy scam to do
And just upgrading my laptop from 23H2 to 24H2, needed to do couple of registry edits to bypass the CPU check.
any wrong intent that can be expressed as an oopsi will eventually be expressed as such
there is nuance between innocence and naivety
naivety if tolerated is quickly weaponized
I've got two, they're great
YT copyright system is perfect.
You can get striked for a video. Fight it legally. Win it. And you get striked for the same thing again 🤣
Finally something good from EU: https://www.reddit.com/r/FinanzenAT/s/2tOaTt0eQ3
I am always nervous when sending money to IBAN of a natural person because I could mistype IBAN and my money could go to the wrong person
Now you can see who owns the bank account so you can be sure you are sending money to the right person
iirc the 6500XT was supposed to be an iGPU
No, it is dGPU, but cheap laptop one.
So only 4x PCIe as that is common with cheap laptop CPUs as max output to dGPU etc.
ah right, i remember the x4 being an issue
is that game rust
no, kingdom come deliverance 2
I recently remembered that this whole time ive been using my ram on 2133mhz because it cant xmp
how much fps could i be losing from that
the thing is I bought 3600mhz ram, but when I turned on XMP it would blue screen me every 1 day
a lot
it kept getting worse and worse, my system had gotten corrupted to the point where i couldnt even open exe files
like atleast 20-30%
so i had to turn off xmp and format my entire windows partition
can you recommend me a good brand that doesnt lie about their ram clocks
i think the last one i got was either hyperx or team force, cant remember
and yeah as i said turning on xmp resulted in constant crashes and my os got corrupted
the onyl ddr4 ram ik is a hyperx kit you cant buy soooooo probably ask fireworker or maybe baldur idk
XMP is what the RAM can do as single set, in Golden Sample system.
Not what it can do with your MB and CPU IMC.
XMP is RAM OC from CPU view.
well i have a Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite, 600w power supply and ryzen 5600
I dont see how 3600mhz ram wouldnt befit such a system
like, its on par, I dont think im using overly powerful ram compared to the rest of my specs
Point is that if one set didn't work, other same speed XMP/EXPO sets are unlikely to work either.
As the issue is with the other parts, not the RAM.
which part could be affecting them, then?
5600 is officially only up to 3200MT/s, but unofficially that 3600MT/s should have worked in almost all cases.
Either very bad luck with silicon lottery with the IOD, or MB doing something stupid.
it was scary because they were not harmless crashes but they permanently ruined my system, thats why ive been really skeptical about doing further tests ever since i turned xmp off
As XMP only sets some of the latencies, MB sets the rest, and set the IOD IMC voltages.
XMP only directly raises the RAM VDIMM.
You always need to do RAM stability testing after enabling XMP.
memtest86 doesnt detect it
or maybe i would need to do a ridiculous amount of passes for it to do
#off-topic-tech message old messages from this issue
now obviously 2 passes is very low to assess whether xmp is problematic
but from experience, these crashes happened once every 40 hours or so
I cant be running memtests for a week until i find a right frequency, it becomes a waste of time at some point
I mean, can the silicon be THAT unlucky
Just means it is almost stable, and there is just some tiny corner case somewhere in the operating envelope at the timings the MB set.
so, what are my options then, if buying new ram wont fix this
in case it matters i am running PBO
new board or manual timing
XMP on, drop RAM frequency one step.
Check that you don't have any MB functionality on that would try to "optimize" the RAM settings.
and how do i test if the new frequency is stable without 40 hour memtest86 sessions?
If MemTest86 didn't find it in 4 passes, it is very unlikely to find it in more, as it probably isn't hitting right access pattern at all.
okay, I will try, but last time it didnt detect my faulty XMP with 2 passes
i hope these extra 2 will make the difference then
Point is, it probably won't find anything with your problem.
And you can only use the system and hope, or try some Windows side stresser.
im pretty sure my ram issues is that only one of my sticks is unstable cause its only when both sticks are loaded that my system is unstable lol
this hope part is what bothers me
Usually it's people putting memory in the wrong slots
one or two of these crashes and you have to reinstall your OS
i am running dual channel
memtest86 isn't a useful test in 2025. Try OCCT RAM test
Which slots?
And most MBs have 4 slots.
And it is important in which order they are used.
a2b2
Mobo's do a lot of dumb things, problem is if you turn XMP on they change 10 other variables, some of which might not even be related
so it's difficult to diagnose
but yeah, lower frequency probably works fine without having to adjust anything else
does a too low cl ever cause issues
3600mhz cl16 crashes me, if i run 3200mhz cl14 is there any chance that it just doesnt like high frequncy and low cl at the same time
no
Lower number is tighter.
But that one is limited on the RAM end.
CPU/mobo basically doesn't care, and for RAM 3600c16 is about the same delay as 3200 c14
is your RAM 3600 16-16-16? or 16-19-19 etc
And that cares about absolute time, not the number which is just in clock cycles.
apparently its 18-22-22 💀
I learned, that motherboards in general are not easy to diagnose when shit hits the fan 😄
what is the capacity also
2x16gb
if you mean the 4th timings number, its 42
dug this out for ya
tl;dr don't worry about CL in particular (labeled CAS-RD there). A ton of other timings have similar or sometimes much greater impact, and many of them cannot appear in xmp/expo profiles for no real reason other than nobody bothered to make the standard support a value for them.
That testing is on a zen 3 CPU
I see, that's good to know
so, for my ram's specs, what clock would you suggest to make sure it remains stable
F4-3600C18-8GVK this is the stick if its important
that's 2x8, you said 2x16 earlier
you're right, my bad
2x8 is what i have
and: Just whatever works, you can try a lower freq and run OCCT test
if it fails then it's bad
should work somewhere between 3600 and 3200 at worst
even one crash from ram failure can destroy my OS so im trying to avoid booting into windows for any testing
maybe something similar to memtest86?
CPU can too. Usually they don't, but you're right it is a valid risk
there aren't any useful tools for testing outside of the OS though, other than for validating that a config isn't extremely unstable before going into OS for real testing. Some people use a sacrificial OS for testing 😄
what i meant is something i can put on a usb, small in size
dm'd you 😄
also, setting to 3200 16-20-20 1.35v should have extremely low chance of failure. If it somehow has a few errors there, you can try 3200 18-20-20 in case the RAM can't do the CL that it says it can
wow, all in an ISO, the one you sent me looks perfect for using with ventoy
and will get close enough to 3600cl16 as far as performance goes?
It will get a lot closer than 2133 😄
lol i hope so
while in most games im fine in some ones like Rust I get 80fps
lets pray this resolves it, although fps in that game is in general shitty (i know 4070tis which get 60)
there is no substitute for frequency on those CPU's (we set the interconnect as fast as it will go, and run the memory clock at the same clock in lockstep)
but in 2025 it's not worth the money to replace RAM really, because CPU upgrades are much larger and more cost effective
the RAM OC stuff is mostly when it was the best CPU and we want to get 20% more out of it at high cost of money and time.
i am no OC lunatic but if i can escape using 2133mhz i happily will
And most likely other 3600MT/s RAM wouldn't work either with the MB and CPU, at 3600MT/s.
The RAM is a little sus but good chances, yeah
Should be good?
The measurement units for the ram timings were really confusing
16h might mean 16 in hex...
Were there entries with A-F used in them?
I believe you're correct, it says 8clk,9clk, then 0A, 0B.. so it's indeed hex. In that case, 16 would be 10h
And 20 would be 14
Should be good now?
Probably, and will almost certainly fail to boot if that wasn't in hex.
there should be a menu to set timings in base 10
Under AMD Overclocking, but there have been MBs where those don't work as the MBs own menu overwrites the stuff, even on Auto.
Even when AMDs guidance is that whichever is set should be used, when other is on Auto.
But basically Gigabytes UEFI UI coders weren't really thinking with that version...
Umm great so now my PC is a black screen
Keyboard doesn't work monitor gives no input
I tried powering off and reopening it and still nothing
Guess I'll have to press that bios reset button wherever it is
clearing cmos will reset it yeah
99% sure there is another menu (not AMD overclocking, just on the board) using regular numbers
Not really
Actually, it's weird
There are two menus, one lets me change the timings but has no option for changing frequency
And the amd one lets me change the frequency and timings
Doesn't need to be done in same place.
And that RAM frequency change is usually front and center, while timings are in submenu.
That System Memory Multiplier or near it in the second pic up top.
And then that Advanced Memory Settings?
The screen is here.
Tweaker tab at the top.
System memory multiplier > 32
timings are in Advanced Memory Settings right under it
Wait, can you tell me what what "FCLK" means
it's the interconnect between chiplets, should be on 1600mhz for you
Oh really, system memory multiplier was frequency
Multiplier from 100MHz base clock at which the RAM runs at.
I guess randomly seeing the number 21 without any measurement units or anything didn't really strike me as that
yeah it's not the best labelling 😄
And the hex timings... Whoever made this bios needs to be fired
anyway I have to go now I'll give updates in a few hours
gl
gigabyte am4 was an experience. I did it, a friend too
They made multiple different beta bioses with the same name (like, one f13h and another f13h were actually different)
and then they leaked everybodies and their own info
and didn't publish any updates for months while they were scrambling to unfuck their systems
that would set me off 🤣
bad enough that they used half the alphabet trying to make a version that wasn't broken
build-pleaseEndMySuffering
Your suffering shall not end 
i had one and im still using it
f11a my beloved
@thin trout by the way, regarding gsat, what arguments should I run it with? The recommended ones from the website, or do I need anything special
so are any of the nvidia drivers newer than december's worth updating to for 40 series?
Weird things are happening
I turned off the power supply, opened up my PC, shorted the clear-cmos pins, turned on the power supply and booted the pc
I'm still getting the black screen, but when I try to hold down the power button to turn off the PC the blue light flashes weirdly and the computer doesn't shut down
It's as if the computer is trying to tell me that i mustn't shut it down
Its not like I'm flashing a bios though, a CMOS clear should take a few seconds, yet it's been like that for 10 minutes
It doesn't allow me to shut it down but it also doesn't post, I'm not sure what I gotta do here
Full video here
Before y'all say stainless steel doesn't conduct electricity I also tried with a paper clip
i did since the old ones started breaking
its ok if you always update to the latest one asap before it corupts and dies again
Stainless steel can definitely carry current...
I have a device made of 316L where the device casing itself is the - path
It can get away with it with it's particular application just due to the size of the pathway. Definitely not something normally useful for conducting current since it's nowhere near as good as something like copper.
Also have a copper device that works the same way... the majority of the device itself is the - lead
Turn off PSU, remove CMOS battery for 30 seconds, short the pins for 10 during that time, then reinstall battery, turn on PSU and try again.
thats is a impressively low lifespan
Is there anything wrong besides computer side connector housing getting stuck in the drive?
Because that should be trivial to pull out and then use the drive on any other computer?
Because that black two-part thing sticking out top isn't part of the drive.
It is part of the laptop, drive mount or cable.
Sprinkle this with some AI and we are in trouble... https://www.reddit.com/r/recruitinghell/s/W0Nm4wzqYN
Some guy posted in the comments he got flagged as a "flight risk" because he took a day off to care for his sick child
Would have needed to take more days in same set... Interpreted as going to job interview and lying about it.
But yeah, just stupid...
So, the tool will basically flag top-performing employees if they take PTO for whatever reason, they will be excluded from the meetings or projects and then later quit because they feel like they are being completely ignored while HR will brag about how their tool works perfectly without realizing they made an environment with a self-fulfilling prophecy
Last thing we need is integrating AI into this tool and the tool flagging employees for the dumbest reasons
Idk I havent opened it up yet
Opened what up yet?
There is nothing to open.
Oh u mean the cable
Opening the drive itself is very bad idea.
The drive housing had a guide on how to disconnect it and it showed it this way
You failed with that, or it had failed already.
That protruding thing was supposed to stay with the housing PCB.
The drive is almost certainly ok, and only that housing side connector failed.
This?
Yes.
That black protruding thing with the ribbon cable is not part of the drive, but the housing.
You were supposed to pull on that small black tab over the ribbon.
To pull that connector out of the drive.
Why do you think the cable was the reason? It functioned fine in the past years
Don't know, but point is to try the drive as is on something else.
There is nothing repairable for you inside the housing.
Needs professional help for data recovery if it doesn't just work with some other SATA connection than that specific housing.
plottwist, the bios update did not work for me 🤣
Was it asrock and cpu issues (can't remember that conversation exactly)?
Wonder if I should still buy asus mbo next time:
yeah, thinking about going overpriced Asus 
I had gigabyte motherboards for years before switching to asus 10 years ago
And I once managed to damage the board when replacing cpu thermal paste. My screwdriver slipped....
My previous asus motherboard was still working fine though when I decided to upgrade my pc (currently have Asus TUF Gaming B550-Plus)
And yes, I know TUF gaming is a marketing gimmick 😅
I care little for what anyone says at this point. I've heard it all. Don't pay overpriced hardware. Don't do this. Don't do that.
If one brand works for me. And another one doesn't. Then I pick the brand that works for me.
If people have amazing experience with product X of brand Y, doesn't mean others also have. And vice versa with bad experiences. Doesn't mean everyone will have them.
Same, didn't have issues with asus so far even though people don't like it
My previous asus board is going strong for about 8-10 years now, my niece still gaming on it 🤣
this systems hasn't been stable since the day I bought it for 2 years now. Build in 2023.
I still use Asus VG248QE gaming monitor and somehow it still works after 10 years
Ah, no point bitching about it. Slapping in a new motherboard in a few months and we'll see. Now I am just hoarding data.
At the moment, I have an average of 4 days that the system can run 24/7.
At least I won't need to replace my PSU when upgrading. Will need 32 GB of RAM, new Ryzen CPU and probably RX 9070 XT
So in theory, I should put in new motherboard, wait 4 days and see what happens 😛
And if that doesn't work.
Then it must be the PSU right 🤣 
or I just find another hobby. Bird watching or something.
Do you have a spare PSU or CPU just to confirm it might not be a motherboard issue?
yeah, I got a spare CPU. But that one was acting up also. That one was more unstable than this one.
or you could bring the PC to repair shop and ask them to test hardware
Nah, we are way past that point.
I've contacted them. They do the same as I did, but only ask a lot of money for it.
This system has been stress tested. It's been Baldur trouble-shooted and even he gave up.
Basically needs that swap testing, and no access to another MB or PSU.
So at this point it's just swapping parts until stable.
Or buy new system, but current market isn't so kind for that.
And I can hear the instability. It's coming from around the CPU area.
Once I can hear a certain coil whine / ticking sound, I know it's about a day before it crashes.
Here are the local prices (sorry for bad google translate):
It could be the fans. But too lazy to install fan control to disable it when I hear the sound so I know if it's fans or cpu.
50 euro's for a stress test? 40 euro for dust cleaning.
30 euros for bios upgrade is most sick one imo. I would do it for 10.
Backup for €99,90 (including USB)???
Yeah crazy right?
Not sure if the local PC store offers that (they probably do) but they probably won't charge much for it since it's basically transfering data to USB stick or some other device
stress testing is also not something they are actively doing.
Anyway, going out to walk the dog and get some 🌞
Doesn't that require disassembling half my PC to reach the CMOS battery
Depends on MB.
I wonder if my company is going to start updating laptops to Windows 11 since Windows 10 support officially ends in approximatelly 1 month
I think most of them aren't older than 5 years and probably have TPM 2.0
TPM 2.0 has been standard in CPUs long before the CPUs are supported with Win11.
anyone encountered strange thing when steam decided that it's window will be pure mono black?
I have 2 olders laptops from 2013/2014 which unfortunatelly don't have TPM 2.0 😭
And they also don't have CPUs that are officially Win11 supported, when minimum is 8th Gen Intel or Ryzen 2.
And both that TPM requirement and CPU requirement can be bypassed.
I think the laptop has haswell "hasfail" 4th generation CPU
So, it's stuck on Windows 10 atm
Like said, need to use Rufus or like to make custom image that bypasses TPM and CPU requirements.
Or if you want to do inside-Windows update, need to do two regedits.
I probably won't be updating OS since I rarely use those laptops (mostly for browsing on rare ocassions)
Experimenting with linux distro would make more sense in my case
ventoy sets the bypass automatically
Done, this looks good?
Should b e.
works! At this point I have learnt my computer's fan profile so well I can tell the exact second it posts with my eyes closed
@night girder got my threadpool to work...
Currently, it's slower than openmp 
But I'm also running 70% load for whatever reason...
I'm guessing cache misses
yes but it was 1.35v wasnt it
Probably for the XMP.
Baldur, remember that I set everything to auto a year or two ago ont he motherboard?
On your recommentdation. Today I was digging into my BIOS again, because I find it weird I receive no WHEA logging.
Those AMD CBS settings to let that work again did reset too.
Now, I was digging deeper into the BIOS and I found a few more settings that have hardcoded values and could be set to auto.
What kind of settings?
Now I wonder, why aren't those auto.
and how harmfull would it be to set those to auto.
I wrote down:
AMD CBS -> RX DFE TAPS = 2 (can be set to auto)
AMD CBS -> TX DFE TAPS = 2 (can be set to auto)
DRR5 -> Nitro Mode (can be set to auto)
Etc.
I can go through the whole system and give you a full list, or can we just assume auto can be fine?
What is that Nitro mode set to?
But anything under CBS is at AMD defaults.
Those are related to RAM training, and mostly tuned for getting to over 6000MT/s RAM speeds.
Enabling that Nitro for example loosens some IMC internal timings so that it works better at high RAM speeds.
I have to restart my system. But I just found out that the section that has "Accept/Decline are you sure what you doing?" isn't been reset to default when I press to "load default"
And those DFE taps control how much work the training does, higher number is more exact, but takes more time.
I think you miss my point.
Why are those set with hard coded values.
And not auto, as I would expect it to be.
Because AMD in that specific AGESA version set them to be defaulted to those values.
Is that ssomething that is wrong on my side, or are those values set by bios update?
Gotcha.
DFE taps 2 and Nitro off is the default.
Let me check. Be back in a few.
Your motherboard probably changed them if you changed the memory multiplier. Otherwise it should just read "auto".
But basically anything under AMD CBS, AMD Overclocking and the third AMD one are at AMD AGESA version defaults after reset to defaults.
Which isn't always "Auto".
I didn't do anything.
But basically only reason I know about those settings is that AMD OC team members talked about them in Reddit when that Nitro mode was added.
And that those specific settings are the defaults.
Anyway what I did was;
- LOG TRANSPARENT ERRORS: AUTO -> ENABLED.
- SMU and PSP Debug Mode: AUTO -> ENABLED.
- PSP error injection support: FALSE -> TRUE.
I really hate the auto setting, it tells me jack.
if you reset to defaults and literally did not touch anything, then maybe your bios just reports differently. I have not heard of them being anything other than auto though
And @twin dew DDR5 Nitro Mode is set to enabled.
I reset it every bios update, believe me. Because that's what the manual told me to do.
Those two latter ones are bad idea.
But you need to set Platform First Error Handling to False.
you did not use xmp/expo?
No.
which board vendor is that
Like I said; bios update -> load all defaults. And that's it.
I didn't find that one.
||it's asrock isn't it||
assrock indeed 😄
😬
Yeah that board is doing stuff outside of AMD's rules, and one or more of the things that it's doing may be killing cpu's
these ones are not going to cause harm, but it makes me wonder wtf else they are doing
CAN BE SET TO AUTO:
TX DFE TAPS: 2 TAPS (can be auto)
RX2D_TrainOpt: Manual (can be auto)
TX2D TrainsOpt: Manual (can be auto)
TX2D Delay Step Size Multiplier: no multiplier (can be auto)
Memory Context Restore: Enabled (can be auto)
PCIE ARI enumeration: Disabled (can be auto)
Pluton Security Processor: Disabled (can be auto)
That's all the values I found, that could be set to auto. But are for some reason, what they are.
Basically gives more stable RAM, with tiny bit more latency.
And little longer training time.
Ok. Not it.
you're right, ill do that
btw is it normal that task manager is still showing 2133mhz
reverted two latter ones. enabled platform first and transparent.
is it only 3200 under load?
No, RAM frequency is static.
well, ill see what other options i can turn on then
but ill steer away from that amd overclocking tab
Speaking of oc, I'm very impressed with how my 9070xt takes an undervolt
Can very easily do a -100mV offset and do 2.6GHz steady ingame
alright, i needed to use 1.35 volts for 3200mhz to appear
is undervolting useful for reducing overheating?
When this item is set to
[Enabled]
, uncorrected errors detected by the PSP FW or
SMU FW that should cause a cold reset, will hang and not restart the system.
Why would this be a bad idea?
Yes
Oh, because cold restart is not what is happening on my end?
But can also introduce lots of instability if not done carefully
Well, can be used to determine that might be problem, when the system would just freeze, instead of rebooting.
That was my reasoning. But then I thought, if the system hangs in a "bad" state it might cause damage.
Didn't remember what that exactly does, but setting like that was meant for actual HW development and like.
But that is pretty benign one.
Well all good and well 🤣
That other one just allows you to use software to cause errors.
I can use all the tools
That Error Injection.
Ah, yeah turned it off 😄
Basically allows special software to bitbang and set stuff that shouldn't be touched.
Usually used to cause one bit errors to check that ECC and error reporting works.
Man, why do I get so much shit with this system. Didn't even underclock it. Didn't overclock it. And it still 💩 itself
Yeah, not what we need 😄 I turn on that freeze. 99% it wont help, but what doesn't harm 🤷♂️
Was thinking off turning XMP on for the RAM to see if to becomes more stable. Or unstable.
JDEC spec is the one place where every pice of memory related hardware is suppose to be guaranteed stable
moon eclipse today guys!!
Also, 2 years ago, I reset motherboard to "default" and a bunch of settings just stayed locked down @values.
So I set a lot back then on auto (which should have been done by loading default).
Saying, that I have little faith in the "default" option of my motherboard, that's why I asked if the values wouldn't need to be turned to auto.
and besides that, Asrock (or mobo makers in general) really need to explain wtf auto exactly does.
Because it's the most confusing, infuriating thing when going through the settings.
"logging: auto" ... does this mean it's enable. disbled? 🤷♂️
Asus caused a 30% CPU performance loss in some workloads this year when they changed "auto" to mean "disabled" instead of "enabled" on an obscure RAM addressing setting
without any patch note or UI change
that was an interesting few weeks of people combing the bios and setting random settings to enabled/disabled to see if it fixed it 😛
Yeah, that's the point I am at right now 🤣
just toggling shit on/off, enable, disable, ... to see what sticks.
I do a little sanity check here to make sure I don't anything dumb ofc.
I think I could also use asrock default presets to underclock and overclock everything.
If I don't get any screen tearing on low fps, should i still use freesync or is there no point
Using it does reduce latency slightly
And even if you're not getting tearing right now, there's really not any downside to using it
There is always tearing, you just might not notice it directly.
You will notice the loss of smoothness caused by tearing and images being updated irregularly though, VRR will fix that.
The loss of smoothness is greatest if you have an FPS between 50% and 100% of the monitor's refresh rate
for example on 60hz monitor, the most noticable smoothness loss from refresh and frame desync happens at 40-45fps
as far as input delay goes will it be lower or higher?
VRR doesn't add latency
50 Series drivers for NVIDIA have been a bit of a circus... but how have they affected performance over the last 8 months?
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Nvidia driver stuff has been all over the place for older cards
Using 4000 series i had to use 566.66, newer would crash constantly
On 5000 series, 536.66 isn't supported, but newer drivers DID work (the same ones which didn't work on 4000 series with the same system)
566.36
yea, still on it myself
thankfully i'm not playing anything newer than that
im on 581.08
ive heard that very high polling rates (e.g 4k) can cause stutters on worse end PCs, would this affect me on a 5600 6700xt
It shouldn't but it is some extra overhead with very little benefit
yea i've never heard of any case where you'd need over 1k
You need over 1k for smooth mouse input with a screen over 144hz
because of the desync between the screen update rate, game update rate and the mouse polls
since those rates are not locked together, we have no way to lock the mouse update rate to be in sync with them, the only way to get a consistent number of mouse updates in each refresh or frame is to poll the mouse really really often.
i'm yet to see any human capable of narrowing down an unpredicted action to a single frame
That's not required, and nobody talked about that.
You can do for example a mouse pan to turn the camera in an FPS game, and 250fps with 4000hz mouse poll will look smoother than 360fps with 1000hz mouse poll despite being at a lower framerate.
this is what 500hz mouse input on a 360hz monitor looks like
this is 1000 on 360
(you can clearly see irregularity)
and 2000hz on 360hz, much closer to perfect
And no, we don't need a photo of the screen to find an impact, it's just much easier to convey over a discord chat that way rather than having people download high framerate videos and watch them on their slower monitors via slowing down playback.
I can easily blind test 1000 vs 2000+ (as in 10 out of 10 correct), and a bit less easily (8/10+ correct) 2000 vs 4000hz on my 380hz IPS. It was even easier on 480hz OLED.
yea i've been bouncing between 250 & 1000 on my 144Hz & i can't tell a difference
500 vs 1000hz should be really obvious on a 144 monitor
that's the worst of the common cases
500 is about 3.5 polls per refresh (so it bounces between updating 3 times vs updating 4 times, in the same amount of real time), while 1000 is almost exactly 7, and quite near perfect.
Load up an FPS game that can run at a high and smooth framerate and move camera back and forth
or stare at one point on your monitor and move the cursor past your eye focus point at a constant speed
should be very easily visible
dunno what to say then. Maybe 1khz doesn't work properly on your mouse, and all of them look bad (has been known to happen)
Most of my testing was on the superlight v1 and v2, and viper pro v3; they're definitely good (although superlights require g hub to be open 24/7 for polling rate to stick)
redragon M913
You don't need much to check it in an objective way, i just pointed a smartphone camera at the screen
and the distance that each cursor appears away from each other is literally the amount of turning that your char will do in a game where your mouse input is turning the camera. Any irregularity there shows up as a less smooth turn.
I can take a few more since i have 4khz+ now
ok thru the camera the "missed" spots are a lot more obvious
still can't see them naturally tho 🤣
like you said earlier, a lot of overhead without a lot of benefit
that wasn't me 😄 but ye, depends on refresh rate
It actually can cause problems even on world record hardware
probably looks a lot jitterier on 60/30fps recording
best to set as a floor:
120-144hz: 1k
200hz: 2k
333hz: 4k
8k is only marginally better, and tends to be offset by it causing FPS drops and stuff that hurt as much as it helps
as well as battery drain since wireless mouse is a huge advantage, and 8k makes them drain like 50% faster than 4k
iirc LTT showed that some of those high polling mice can use like 5% cpu
a lot more
it used to be far worse, but i have a game where moving the mouse at 4k cuts fps in half 😄
There's a great study on the subject but the link went dead a while ago and i can't find the .pdf right now. It was @ http:// kuaa.net/publications/2021-DoWeNeedAFasterMouse.pdf
i'm still confused as to why we need a 32k dpi mouse
we don't
1 sensor count = 1 pixel means that the sensitivity that i want is 850dpi on 1080p, or 1700dpi on 4k
technically you can do with a little higher resolution in an FPS game as they can move in smaller intervals than a pixel, arbitrarily small, but once you get to like detecting 1/1000'th of a centimeter of movement when you are using 30cm to turn around it becomes completely meaningless. Doesn't really matter if you turned 30,000 or 30,002 "notches".
i'm at 3500 on 1440UW, but i have dpi on the fly so i can drop it down to 250 if i need to
1080p 273 dpi for the memes 😄
Yeah, it's 1/3'rd of my normal sens 😄
I also learned only recently that the windows display scaling actually multiplies your sensitivity too
but my mouse can do like 16000dpi lol
oh yeah well my mouse can like...move a pointer thingy around and move shit and stuff so...
😄
I actually have one of those trackball things out here...
No idea how many dpi it is... can't recall
ah 1600 tops, but it does what it was designed to do. Mouse mouse is one a Redragon M908, pretty sure it goes a wee bit higher
12,400 on the mouse apparently... that's what I use for any gaming and such since it's on the big boy upstairs
do yall slide your chair's arm rests underneath your desk or keep them level with it
the issue is that if its level then I can never rest on the back of the chair because my arm wouldnt be able to reach the mouse properly
and if its not level im ridiculously low to the point where my knees cant even keep a 90 degree angle
Level, and i don't rest on the back of the chair (other than lumbar support) when using mouse
seperate one, or the one that comes embedded in the chair
part of chair
You're having a problem because your arm rests stick out too far forwards and hit the desk?
the comfiest that i've used are this style
yes, i am planning to get a chair with smaller ones like the ones you showed
ive had this one for a while anyway
do you think a footrest serves any purpose on such chairs or is it a gimmick
if your feet can't comfortably reach the floor and you can't fix it with desk+chair height adjusts
i modded my chair arms with some plates and extra long machine screws to drop them down about 7cm, so that their max height is comfortable to me, but they can now drop way down below table height
oh maybe not that much height, more like 4-5cm
too low but my desk is also too thick for htem to go under
but there padded so i dont wanna get rid of them lol
Proper Ergonomics would have your arm at a flat level to your mouse and kb. Arm rest being at that height makes sense
Not comfortable for my back though
even with good posture lower back gets tired after long
I'll probably invest in a lumbar support
Im too short to have them that high
Me trying to figure out if the ticking sound comes from PSU or CPU 🤣
I know the solution, put PSU outside case.
This is why it's good to own a stethoscope..
Also can be useful for figuring out exactly where in an engine a tap or knock is coming from heh
I found that out only after I assumed the lifters in my Fiero were what was tapping and tore all the way down to replace them... put it back together.
Ran great... with the same tap lol
for me it's always the pesky cables getting inside the fan
its especially fun when you realsie its the PSU capaciters just being overcharged and not a fan at all
I don't think it's fans anyway.
actual hack for it: buy a cheap old stethoscope
my general aim is if it maxxes out my monitor
Basically jenny needs cheapest possible Satisfactory build in Germany, as the current non-gaming laptop with Intel IGP cannot run 1.1 anymore budget needs to be as minimal as possible right now.
Better to talk about Windows tablet as laptop in this case.
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/jennytime9/saved/#view=zMCJmG <<-- i was thinking along this line spec-wise
Saved Part Lists
fair
Also, good deal used systems would probably be ok too as suggestions.
if that was the logic, then you'd be on AM5. thermalright peerless assassin 120SE. quieter than my 360 AIO i have
am5 uhhhh
Cheapest AM5 CPU is 150+e
i was abboutta make the cheapest possible to show him but this should be enough
the cheapest cpu is +100 alr
and probably comes with a stock cooler that works fine with it
still 50 more than my cpu+aio
water cooling is for once you've already burnt cash on getting a top tier CPU
That specific CPU also might come with stock cooler, unless that is some tray CPU.
And not Boxed retail one.
and if not, spend $10 on an AM4 stock cooler. it'll handle that cpu just fine
ooooh
there ya go
so that saves you €70 right there
but the main question is if this cpu+ram+gpu combo is enough to play satisfactory
i just wanna play for 3-5 months and then fully upgrade it all
If possible, I would look for anything but Nvidia 5000-series GPU, as the drivers for those are still a mess.
B580 12gb is 265
i have a thing about intel
lol
not bad
One option would be to just get 5000 AMD G-series APU CPU for now, without GPU at all, and 2x8GB or 2x16GB of RAM.
5500GT for example.
Or 5600GT for tiny bit more.
uhh gt is vega 7
wait, i actually think vega is the one lineup where i dunno which is better
Yes, but still usable.
And upgradeable later with GPU.
I'll install Satisfactory onto my secondary computer tomorrow that has Ryzen 4650G, and give some performance numbers.
so the 5600GT?
IGP is the same, difference is in the CPU core clocks.
3.6/4.4 for 5500GT and 3.6/4.6 for 5600GT.
So 5600GT can have up to 200MHz more frequency on CPU side.
But I'm off to bed, will try to remember to do those performance tests with same model IGP with worse CPU cores tomorrow.
are you sure its a good idea to get the cheapest power supply you can find
Also if youre not planning to get a gpu you might as well invest in the 8600g
go for the AM5 option and add a second stick of DDR5
had name stroke
yes
it'll be fine
will the game need it
100%
i mean on a lategame save im sitting at 13GB of ram usage game only not counting windows
16GB id say is the bare minimum
on windows? for sure
or get at least one 16GB stick and add another one later
I have an 8gig tablet and get windows to use between 2-3gigs
ram isnt the issue why this device doesnt run the game
3GB WIN + 4GB Game + ??GB VRAM?
You need more than 8GB RAM without an dGPU
right
looking decent for an office PC ^^
one other thing to keep in mind is integrated graphics likely doesn't support features needed for anyhting above absolute minimum graphics settings (or atleast it dident use to) so even if you have spare performance you wont be able to use it
it's an 740M, should be decent-ish for low, maybe mid settings.
technically supports RT and upscaling
thoughts on putting a bit more money towards a better psu and motherboard so I dont need to upgrade those down the line?
the budget is sitting around 570eur
which could mean something like this
PSU yes, 500-600W range, dpending on the planned GPU
maybe a B board if budget allows it
A boards a very cut down, intended for office mostly
motherboard is whatever but id say atleast bigger psu
meep
cause most gpus are starting to reccomend 700w+
Are you really recommending to mix and match RAM kits?
I guess it's 4800CL40 JEDEC on an 8GB stick, so not much to go wrong there
for jedec you can mix and match without really any negative consequences, the bad rep is just from overclocking
definitely can't get decent performance from 1x8GB DDR5 though. 2x8GB DDR5 unless you get some of the new hynix 8gbit chips is missing half of its bank groups, but 1x8 is also missing half of the bandwidth due to missing channel
they say 700 because of trash psu's
And because newer gpus are more prone to things like transient spikes and a higher wattage psu will usually(but not always) be better quality overall
The reccomendation also often comes from ensuring the proper number of power connectors
There are plenty of gpus with a 350w rated tbp that still want 3x pcie 8-pins
And there are very few power supplies under 750w with those connectors
Even if they have plenty of 12v rail to do it
i had fun trying to give my old system 48gb of ram by hanging onto the original 2x8 while giving it another 2x16
and then i pushed it past 32gb usage
have never regretted making a pc component change so fast
did YT just broke and decided to not allow volume higher then 80%?
I'd rather have them stick to 1x8 and save up for replacing it with 2x16
This is going too far on the PSU imo
I'd rather have you cut cost on aesthetics (cooler) here and instead go for a good set of RAM sticks
Also: do you plan to stick with the iGPU for long?
Because any non-F Ryzen CPU will have one, the G-line CPUs just have a more powerful one
Rough draft, needs retouching on the SSDs (don't know internals) and has some headroom for aesthetics or a used GPU.
Probably would go 7600X with a basic Thermalright or Arctic 120mm single tower cooler - and then save up for a used GPU, 5700xt should be under 150€
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/mjxhHW
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 8500G, Jonsbo D31 MESH MicroATX Mini Tower
The non-APU AM5 CPUs cannot really run Satisfactory with the IGP.
Will get around 20 FPS on all-low at full-HD without upscaling.
And that was with dual-channel RAM at 6000MT/s and tuned latencies.
Would need to retest with 1.1.
But another thing that can be used to cheap out is to go without case for start.
Just build the system on the MB box and run as is.
Ugly, but works.
7600X has 2 CU:s with 2200MHz max frequency.
8500G has 4 CU:s with 2800MHz max frequency.
8600G has 8 CU:s with 2800MHz max frequency.
8700G has 12 CU:s with 2900MHz max frequency
holllllllld uppp, wtf is a parametic selection??
Figured it out, you just tick a few and it show- nvm he was faster
If you don't select products, this button will add a parametric from the filters you set
Ok, so selection that changes as things change, based on filters set when adding.
It will always show the cheapest product that matches the criteria
The criteria being either a set of filters or a selection of products
Why no love for A620 or A840?
Yes, will only have lower speed PCIe, but thats about it if otherwise fits.
Also, that selection might have overlooked cheap B650E boards.
Not sure if that differentiates between B650 and B650E.
But ok, those don't seem to exist and B650 MBs are now much more numerous than I remembered.
Might need some caution with an aftermarket GPU because it won't have the IO bracket fixed
Good idea tho
*B840
Cuz I figured at 120€, B650/B850 is cheap enough
B650E mainly differs through pcie5 m.2 iirc, maybe even 5.0 x16, generally too expensive - had it included when I picked the parametric selection for the list
iirc X870 took the place of B650E
Yeah, needs more expensive PCB material.
And yes, X870 is B650E + USB4.
now time to redo my entire pcp lists bc noone ever told be about this
I also included wifi in the board picks, there are more options if we go with wired connections instead of wifi/bt
It doesn't change anything about the list.
I use it for advising because it allows me to provide you with options
But if you didn't notice, and don't have free-roaming pets, think about going without case for the start to cheap out.
Like a motherboard with white accents or a bigger SSD
Still works if your free roaming pets stick to the floors and don't climb your desk
it does since i have tonnsa lists which are price focused
Yeah, you can consolidate those, at least to a degree
You can't combine lists with different platforms/sockets
no duh
Because PCPP chooses parts top to bottom.
So if you have a 12400f and a 7600x in the list, it'll pick the cheapest CPU regardless of whether that'll increase total list price through mainboard
Pick cheapest CPU from parametric
Limit coolers to compatible ones, pick cheapest
Limit mainboards to compatible ones, pick cheapest
etc
So only use parametrics for singular parts that you can freely interchange
Reworked list
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/xWkkMC
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600X
the under 600 shall now stay under XDD
That 7500F is APU without the IGP enabled.
ok i have a dumb question that has nothing to do with the list itself, but it made me think of something
Your filters aren't helpful
denglisch
Ah, no, it is actual Raphael just with IOD IGP disabled
ok i love that
ik ik, but im just messing with it for the first time
but atleast it helps between countries depending on availability
was deutschelish too much?
Too convoluted to say
for germans?
Ideally you'd do your final list on geizhals.de so you have a bigger selection of parts to choose from
probably most people except maybe eastern Europe
It would have to be Deutschlisch which has a weird T-sh-L sequence
And Denglisch just rolls of the tongue
geizhals.de looks annoying
Some feedback on your filters:
- skip the AIO for now, save that money and get good components
- your mainboard filters are too loose, you'll end up with an underbuilt piece of circuitry
- don't go single stick RAM, you want dual channel
- for DDR5, aim for 16gb modules. 8gb ones only have half their banks filled which isn't ideal
- your SSD filter needlessly restricts selection to gen4 x4, good gen3 will beat shitty gen4 and gen5 x2 is no different from 4x4. Just remove the pcie filter and stick to nvme
- PCPP's SSD filters can't check for quality of internals, needs a manual selection
- 6500xt isn't really a good GPU, I'd rather have you check the used market
- the case filter you set is for a loose undefined marketing term, it won't really get you far
- PCPP case filters can't check for quality, another instance where you need manual picking
- your PSU filters aren't zielführend, brand doesn't really matter outside of warranty and 450w is too small for upgradability
- once again, PCPP's filters can't check for quality, this time PSUs. P450B for example isn't a good unit but there's nothing on PCPP that allows you to see that
Yeah, it's very convoluted with the amount of filters.
Once you know how to set filters and check for quality, it becomes manageable - you basically ignore all the unimportant bits
For PSUs, I know someone who built this website to help with selection.
It uses pcpp pricing and the SPL PSU tier list (community project of some people in the ZTT discord server
Another rework. Skipped cooler for now and adjusted PSU selection
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/zx8hHW
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600
But anyways, I can get performance numbers for those AM4 APUs IGP side and 7000-series non-APU IGP in Satisfactory, on dual-channel RAM.
I'm not removing a RAM stick to test single channel, but I can drop the RAM down to 4800MT/s JEDEC on the AM5 system.
AM4 is already on 3200MT/s JEDEC.
AM4 Navi 7 IGP @ 3600MT/s 25-25-25-58-83 JEDEC
48 FPS in main menu on Low Full-HD.
AM4 Navi 7 IGP @ 3200MT/s 22-22-22-52-74 JEDEC
46 FPS in main menu on Low Full-HD.
Now time for late breakfast.
On DX12 with 2x8GB RAM.
and ingame?
Need to do more once I have eaten.
That Main Menu was just easy comparable test scene.
AM5 RDNA2 2 CU @ 6000MT/s 32-38-38-40-50 manually tuned.
22 FPS in main menu on Low Full-HD.
Drop the protocol, so the https:// part
Tell me a better FPS / Money than this: On tori dot fi: /recommerce/forsale/item/29399141
You can just post it is one, when you leave that https:// off.
Bad deal for that price IMHO.
And if the buyer isn't in Finland, just stupid to buy.
And "only pickup" anyways.
So if you don't live near Turku, Finland, not buyable basically.
jenny is finish
u mean euro?
No, prices for buying stuff from Germany.
Oh i missread that xD he/she might be german
40-44 FPS on 3200MT/s when turning around in new save on grass fields.
Around 36 minimum, 69 maximum when looking at sky.
Going to get nothern forest empty, and then over UObject limit save inside large factory.
33 FPS mostly, with minimum of 27 FPS in specific direction in Northern Forest empty save, with 56 FPS when looking at ground (same as on grass fields), sky is 48 FPS as there are trees in view.
Now for long wait to load that large save with too little RAM.
20-27 FPS in that save when still, with drops down to 10 FPS or so if turning too fast.
Ah, whops, that was CPU limited side, forgot to do the GPU Time only and manual conversion.
No, it is IGP limited.
But those turn stutters are from swapping.
Time for another reboot on that system and setting it back to 3600MT/s.
no??
w max
https://url.jennytime9.net/F <- fun list i made for no reason
30-33 FPS back down in the HUB with semi-tuned 3600MT/s.
Just leave that https:// off and the bot won't care.
And the final partspicker url was invalid.
About same 3FPS increase in empty Northern Forest save from the RAM speedup.
i really want to know why pcpp mentions if a case comes with a psu but doesn't mention if it comes with fans
That 4650G with Zen2 would have limited any dGPU to around 30-35 FPS in this scene.
With unknown amount of performance lost to RAM bandwidth being shared with IGP.
But the 5500GT/5600GT have better CPU side than that 4650G.
that's 2 hours of debugging for me...
they expect you to care enough to check the specs when buying
it's some info i'd love to know just as easily as so many other metrics they felt like including
Ah, no, but that later direct one worked.
well, just go with montech, they always have fans
But basically what to expect if you go with the minimum price AM4 system with dual-channel RAM and use the IGP.
i currently have 11 fans sitting in storage doing nothing because of policies like that 🤣
So for minimal for that performance without WiFi on MB, and without SSD and PSU: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/MJTxn6
Case then optional. And 5500GT would be 12e cheaper for little less CPU performance with dGPU.
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5600GT
i say you blow $300 on a case like this