#off-topic-tech
1 messages · Page 68 of 1
Nah, they just cost a lot for mediocre performance
Good pumps tho
Didn't the QX120 get absolutely shit on in reviews, even disregarding price?
Plus the hotspotting on the RGB is super obvious
iirc the last time Corsair had a fan that performed well was ML120.
i just noticed something and now im confused
whats the difrence between memory density and capacity
I thought the rgb diffuser was the only real problem
Although I'd totally believe the fan was crap too
lol, nope. The performance is absolutely awful, even for RGB fans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SgEQ2kAXGk
Let's take a look at the Corsair iCUE Link QX120 RGB, the 120mm version of their latest and "greatest" iCUE Link universe. We'll see how to install them, what you'll need, and then we'll start talking performance, or lack thereof.
Watch Next: Full Of PR-Vomit, But A Good Case Fan - Endorfy Fluctus 120 https://youtu.be/o38TFANH078
-- Join the D...
Well good to know
Will make sure to recommend against 👍
is anyone here playing on macbooks?
I don't have macbook but on PC
currently downloading
what game is that
And Satisfactory doesn't work in Parallels.
No idea what emulator you are using, but Parallels (at least month ago still) doesn't support UE5 games.
Game Porting Toolkit
ram
But more exactly.
like this 4GB ram stick here says it has 8192MB of memory density
and im confused whats the difrence between capacity and density
Or it is 8GB stick in reality?
Would need to see the whole sticker?
Or what the fuck you are pulling that "8192MB of memory density" from and misrepresenting it somehow.

What does it say exactly?
im looking at it trough occt not the sticker
Then attach screenshot?
im working on it there isent enough ram to take a screenshot hold on lol
🤨
im partially dumb i dident notice it was Mb and not MB but that still dosent line up right?
Mb, not MB.
So crappy stick with x16 chips.
4GB stick made of 4x 8Gb 1Rx16 chips.
Instead of 8x 4Gb 1Rx8 chips.
well its not particularly new so its not like i expect it to be good
Newer the stick is, higher chance a low capacity stick is x16 chips.
But that is laptop RAM?
So x16 is expected.
yea its laptop ram
Most SODIMMs are x16:s.
You CAN get x8 SODIMMs, but those are pretty rare.
But that is the per RAM chip capacity, in megabits.
Which is what I expected it to be here.
still having fun trying to get games to run on 4GB of ram lol
try the newest cod
dont have it
I think its because sometimes laptops dont like ram chips being on both sides of the dimm and will only take single sided dimms due them wanting to be ultra thin, could be wrong but thats what i think
@twin dew i can go up to 150$ for a table if you got one in mind
Also price difference.
Half the number of RAM chips affects the BOM too.
i just need it to be exactly 70cm long
$150 for a table, man im happy with cheap $20 ikea tabletop and $20 legs from amazon
idk baldur and frigidman were shitting on how bad the tabletop of a 100$ i found is
and they're probably right
And even the IKEA chipboard tabletop will work, just cannot use monitor clamps etc. with it.
Mainly the shitting on the chipboard tabletop is that you cannot screw or clamp anything into it.
Just placing normal stuff on it will work fine.
My phone no feel good
i will probably put a monitor clamp
for 150 instead of 100 is there anything that could have better tabletop
We don't live in your country, so we have no idea.
i think some shit just exploded in my laptop....
damn
eh, check the ikea of your own country
theyre usually the same
the battery went down like 40% in one go and its sounds like perhapse there is arcing going on
No, I'm not going to try to look through the Ikea catalogue for you.
I did say how to check the material.
As Ikea lists every variant of same product as separate entry in the main page.
bold move
before you go "it's probably fine" - this is what you're getting yourself into with a cheap tabletop
what materials would you consider good
Not chipboard.
aight
we had that discussion in this channel now 30 times in the last week
just search "desk" in #off-topic-tech
meh it's fine, my 6 screens are holding well
whats annoying is that when you put "wood" in the material filter in ikea it shows chipboard ones
Doesn't mean that a different, cheaper desk will too
To be fair you could have distributed the stress by putting a plate on both sides of the clamp to stop it being a specific pain point
damn thats 2 monitors
on one point
i mean idk, would a 24" single monitor on a stand be that bad on the chipboard one
Yes.
If you mean that kind of clamp on stand.
Without extra plates like meltedtiger has.
Me today
Update on the crazy neighbour blocking ISP from installing street fiber distribution cabinet: she is getting sued if she prevents contractors from installing the cabinet next time 
put some tags on that cabinet towards her house
My reaction if I notice the police:
You mean phallic art on the back of the cabinet facing the apartment building? 
or that lmao
nice!
while the big cabinent my ISP put on our street pole is kind of ... ugly and obnoxious... its three doors down so i dont have to actually look at it 😉 but i could imagine the house its right in front of, is none to happy about the eyesore
it's one cabinet. Put a bush infront of it
if it landed in my front yard ... i prolly would go out some night and paint the side facing me in a neutral green/brown so it blends in mostly
What's more tragic is that neighbour is a tenant representative (the person who represents all apartment owners in the building and manages building affairs)
Or whatever the english term is for the tenant representative, our laws are a little bit different here
ours is actually hung up on the pole by about 4 feet... so a 'bush' would not reach it, and a bush big enough would end up starting to grow over the walkway and street
Front yards are trash anyways
not on my street ! 😄
we dont have a HOA ... but everyone agrees to keep their fronts clean/clear/trimmed
ISP got city perms so they have every right to install the cabinet. That neighbour is going to have a fun time in court lol
You can party way harder in a backyard
yeah, fighting utility companies is a pointless endevour
nice thing though when they ran fiber down our street, they did remove a bunch of old cruft from the poles, and houses ... old wires, old equipments, old boxes ...
This is how the cabinet looks like (one of the installed cabinets in the city):
Looks pretty standard
ours is like less than 1/4th that size, and hanging on the side of that pole there a few feet off the ground
"safe from snow plows" lol
Other ISP's have a version that is lower but wider
"and dogs peeing on it"
Example of a cabinet from another ISP:
gawd
i'd prefer the blank slate LOL
next thing, they will put a full LCD billboard panel on them so they can rotate deals and shit
I guess in USA you have multiple smaller cabinets in each street. Here, ISP will usually install one large cabinet to cover the whole district
Yeah, and some are even under the sidewalk in business areas
And all customer fiber leads to that cabinet
Granted, that is how we do regular internet/cable, still no fiber yet
Oh, we have that here too. You are probably talking about a small cabinet where coax amplifier is installed
They are installed in front of every apartment building and they are much smaller
Like this
this usually goes into a wider one close to multiple street mutual corner
Never seen what the interior looks like but from what I read online, it only contains coax amplifier for cable internet
*and perhaps something else too
Nvm, found some picture online, it's probably the same cabinet but wider
Performance is meh, but it does the job. If it last a long time and doesn't cause any issues I'll consider it a good purchase. Issues with aios is what's kept me away from them for the longest
Has anyone here tried to back feed an afci breaker? Like hook a generator up to a circuit that's protected by one
Not an electrician but I don't like the sound of backfeeding anything related to electricity 
It's common practice if you've got to hook up a portable generator without a transfer switch.
Turn off your main, plug the genny into the dryer plug
cleaning lint out of my phones usbc port is not good feeling
i feel like that inner tab thing is gonna break so easy
🤣
I really need to get round to setting up my MX records etc for my new domain
what in the redneck is that
When you want a ceiling fan but also want ceiling light at the same time.
And don't want a fan with a light built in
Well, they do they. I personally think the spinning shadows will trip me up more than anything. Quick way to get epilepsy.
the thing is, they clearly put a fair amount of work into it
the cuts are really clean
It's more the effect of use. Like I said, the fan will make the lights cast spinning shadows, and it will not be good for the eyes
It’s not stupid if it works
yea, epilepsy tester
Common in US.
Still very dangerous even there.
Not really allowed in any other western country AFAIK.
The used cords are named "Suicide cord" for a reason.
I would not describe is as common
Common as is that significant percent of generator owners use it instead of proper installation.
Not that significant amount of people use it.
at least they're just doing stuff that'd knock out a house & not working at a nuclear plant
The issue with those isn't anything do to with the house, but the lineman that may be working to resore an outage
That is one part.
Another is that connecting & disconnecting phase where you can have power in exposed pins if you do it in wrong order.
To be honest, that's not too much worse than our plugs anyways
That is where the "suicide" comes from.
Most of our electrical system is safer than other countries tend to give us credit for, put the plug design really could be a bit better
would be interesting to see if they're going to start adding in low voltage lines in houses just for lighting
I think this is going to be very cool https://www.youtube.com/@micronics3d
engineering side house tension is already low
and it would mean less efficient light than currently
and it will not make people safe against rogue "electrician" anyway
LED lighting is downconverting the voltage usually to 12-24V before being fed to the strips.
And currently all the LED replacement lights for older styles have integrated downconvertion from 120/230V AC to few volts DC.
So integrated 48V DC system could work, if standardized onto.
I mean would it be worth increasing miles of electric cable efficiency
I've seen almost direct connect one
it's the stupid old one that have poor down converters
led can be manufactured with high tension in mind
actually high density led commonly go up 36-48V
Because the better strips have integrated constant current drivers.
Which handles the downconversion from some sane DC voltage to what the specific LED used needs.
Worse strips just have resistors.
And that was why I did say 48V DC.
As that could be done without any extra electronics between the house source and the strips.
I meant 36-48v at the led not at the bubble
have lower tension is harder to manufacture
And is below the 50V DC safety limit, and is high enough to still handle pretty high currents without excessive wire sizes.
"tension" in this case means?
AFAIK you are using wrong word there...
LEDs are current driven.
And need current limiting or they burn out once the voltage is above the threshold voltage.
Which is less than 4V for all types AFAIK.
Some colors are less than 2V.
Any LED that can just be "plugged in" without external constant current driver or current limiting resistor has such thing in the module.
nope leds are current driven but you need to reach their tension threshold which is high
unless it's a very small led
They don't really care about the voltage, if the current is kept in check, up to some limit based on the material.
The forward voltage?
I have no idea where you have gotten that "tension" from...
example : a 36V led will start flowing at 35V or something usually and burn at 38V
The high voltage is only if there are LEDs in series.
Where you multiply the individual LEDs forward voltage with the amount of LEDs in series.
And yes, that is used, but still needs the current limiter.
Just need one per series, instead of one per LED when in parallel.
a small resistor is enough to current limit in this case
That is the normal way, just worse result than with constant current driver.
As the source voltage will cause current changes, which will cause light level changes.
And also more losses, as the resistors voltage drop is pure loss.
So like I said, better strips have constant current drivers in them, only bad ones still use just resistors.
but it only needs to drop few V
the few V not dropped by the led package
Yes, the difference gets smaller the more LEDs you have in series.
Just that most 12 and 24V strips have all the LEDs in parallel.
it's just increasing operating voltage range of leds
Don't know about industrial installation ones.
I mean 110V led strip with a small resistor allowing it to not burn at 125 (line spike)
putting dc current driver will get more lossy in a small package
You cannot really run LEDs on unfiltered AC.
Too fast response time, will strobe visibly.
So there always needs to be DC conversion and filtering, even if that is to as high as you can get from 110V AC.
Even just DC conversion without filtering isn't enough.
if you put simple diode inverter it's 100hz
Yes, and still visible, as the LED response time is much faster.
with that setup the constant current driver can be as simple as a small coil
with a response a bit longer than 1/100s
diode inverter -> small resistor -> small coil -> high tension led strip
I think it's doing
And is this theoretical, or are there any actual products out there?
And again with that "tension"...
Seems to be "direct" translation from French...
For Voltage.
I need to open next E27 LED bulb that breaks and see what is inside...
voltage is effect of electric tension
yes it's more used commonly in French but it's still a word in English
Yes, I did read it has entered the vocabulary in some places.
the one with that plastic white part that is burning hot and small have some retard conversion in it and should be illegal
the new one are almost straight led to ac, and don't burn so much
if you have the later it would be nicer
I expect tension to be more used in European English than in usa
Cannot say that as finnish, I have ever heard or seen it being used as synonym for Voltage before today.
And even in Finnish the word for Voltage is "Jännite", which would directly translate more closely with Tension.
But as it isn't any closer to the Finnish word, that kind of mistranslation isn't commonly happening.
More directly in other contexts.
The good side from so different language that there are very few words that map cleanly to English etc. anywhere near 1:1.
So we always have to think about the context when doing a translation.
its 9:45 am and i have until 1:25PM worth of literally just free periods
school is kinda a joke honestly
Leave
It must be, because i have never heard "tension" used to describe voltage in the US
Mistranslation from some languages that has gained ground it seems.
@twin dew what u think about this one
seems to be same dimensions, 20$ cheaper than ikea one, and says its real wood
😒
Baldur what are some good financing options for a house? Oh and while you're at it, my lavender keeps wilting, how do I solve that?
Also could you do my grocery shopping for next week?
Parent money.
Regular watering.
Hope that helped.
Okay thank you. I'll make sure to ask the same question tomorrow but slightly altered.
Yup
And remember to forget the answer we gave you today when you do
Absolutely
And that I will have no idea about if specific Greek company is trustworthy or not, or if something sold there is good or not.
can you recommend a fertiliser for my lavender from here: www.google.com
Can you ship me some lavender
damnit double converion UPS's are expensive
it's now allowed here either. The way they want is a transfer switched installed at your panel and no male-male "suicide" extension cords. However having a transfer switch installed is no small task.. so most people in area's that are prone to bad storms that may knock out power for months, either have the money and spend ~30k to have a generator installed that runs on natural gas.. or don't and either know that before hooking the genny up, disconnect the main and any other high draw appliances (central air, electric water heaters and the breaker that the genny will use) plug it all up, and then start the genny.
laser or inkjet?
laser
But the problem I'm having is with the feeder/paper tray
Not the fuser or any actual printing mechanisms
How old printer?
If the issue is not getting any paper that is usually the pickup rollers being too old or worn.
Relubricating the surface with silicone oil can help in some cases.
If getting multiple papers, the separation pad is too old or worn.
I'm drawing hang on
ahh... gotta love seeing battery wear double overnight... yesterday it was at 27% this morning 35% and now its at 42%
Okay really bad diagram incoming
That upper is pickup roller, should be semi-pliable and somewhat sticky.
The lower is the separation pad.
Here's the sequence of events:
1 - Paper in tray
2 - Printer spins up
3 - Paper gets pushed up slightly, I assume into the rollers
4 - Paper will jolt slightly, I assume because the top roller moves it
5 - Paper stops moving, printer almost immediately gives up and reports a paper jame
So the classic I just listed here, the upper roller is too old/worn/hard.
Through various experiments (by that I mean I have no idea what I did) I managed to get the paper to very slightly clear and barely make it into the back rollers (not drawn) but it didn't pull through
There is sensor just past the roller and if the paper doesn't trigger it very fast, that error happens.
What's weird though is that it worked fine before I took it apart
had a weird case with cloudflare, I'm seeing a bunch of emails forwarding but it's showing as (other) and I can't see any record that it was an email being sent
So did I break it or bad luck? I never even touched the roller
and I've checked all MX records for my friend's DNS domain I control for hin
So what is he not able to send or receive
What did you take apart?
If he can't receive, then the only thing I can think of (granted I'm not an expert on this) is he's hosting his own SMTP server which fell out of favor with DNS authorities for some reason
Might have been open relay, allowing outsiders to send spam via it.
Or most large receivers now require SPF, DKIM and/or DMARC.
well over the past couple of days I see the email stats show a sucessful forward, but like a month ago there's about 150 odd marked as "Other"
Hard to say, but a lot. Originally I was trying to fix smudgy prints, figured the drum/roller/belt/i dont know printer vocab was dirty so I got to it and cleaned it. But most of that was top, middle, front, and sides. I hardly touched the back and I know for a fact I never touched the upper roller
I've put a soft fail on the DMARC
How old printer?
Officially those are in the replacement schedule every couple of years or X k pages in most non-consumer printers.
But can be made to work for way longer with those silicone oil "cleanups".
It's a Dell C1760NW so like very old
9-10 years old
So does that make the answer "unlucky" or "your fault"
And you're saying I can just re-sticky the roller, no need to replace it?
Yes.
Left picture is just zoomed out of the back, right picture circled is the pickup roller (from the back)
Doesn't seem like it'll be toolless unfortunately, in fact it seems like I'll have to remove a lot to get to it
It also doesn't have its own motor, instead being tied into the whole gearbox
Not often replaceable in that small size printers, those are more like consumer ones.
Would be moveable to one side if it was.
With clip or like to get it free.
So then I guess the next option would be to get a qtip or something, apply sticky to it, get the roller rolling and then stick it in there?
found the issue:
Not necessarely sticky, what I have been doing is just that silicone oil/spray cleanup/"moisturizing" and then just paper towel dry.
Yes I know it's weird but again I never touched the roller lmao
Silicone oil? Never heard of that let me look into it
You can easily check if that is the problem by pushing the top paper a little when the feeding should happen.
If that helps, then its this.
It seems like it barely helps. Like it'll push it a little farther to a point but not nearly enough for it to feed all the way
So I guess it is the roller maybe then?
Might be that the next series of rollers that aren't turning powered?
The first in some cases is only D shaped for example.
They are turning but it doesn't even make it to them
There should be something that raises the whole stack, then the bottom separation pad that stops all but the one paper from moving, and then the top roller that moves that top paper.
The separation pad is to separate second sheet if one is sticking to the bottom of the first.
But the raising seems to be happening in the picture.
Yes te raising happens
Yeah, so only possibility is that first roller.
And it should move the paper 1:1 with the turning of it.
There's a top roller and a bottom roller, and you're saying the bottom one is a separation pad right?
What I'm reading says that to clean the rollers (near the paper tray) you just use alchohol and cloth, it doesn't mention silicone oil anywhere
Are you saying that because it's a plastic roller (which wouldn't have much friction)?
Yeah, for cleaning.
Silicone oil is plastic/rubber preservative and somewhat reduces the effects of aging related hardening.
It isn't normal maintenance, but a thing that has worked for me to get old rollers back into service.
Gotcha, well if I'm lucky my dad might have some, otherwise I'm off to the store
Hopefully this works and if it does thanks
Is there any special way to apply the oil? And do I need to wait a bit or do anything extra or should it instantly work?
This kind of stuff in spray format.
www.biltema.fi/en-fi/car-care/lubrication/grease/silicone-spray-400-ml-2000017071
Helps with car seals etc.
But basically generic rubber & plastic safe oil, in spray can format.
Which is actually good for soft plastics and rubbers.
This
IIRC I either put the removed roller on paper towel, sprayed it, then wiped extra off.
Or sprayed on paper towel, wiped onto the roller.
Depending if removable or not.
And do I need to wait or should it work immediately
Should work right after.
Got it
Man this is why I don't like mechanical things
Because you're telling me that if this works, it means that the solution to my problem was magic oil because of the chemistry of hard plastic
I mean I get it, it makes sense, but I prefer digital
Baldur possesses all knowledge known to man
Would regular WD-40 work or do I need specifically silicone lubricant
WD-40 isn't suitable for rubbers.
It has nothing to do with silicone oil.
That was just from same company.
Got it
Is plastic a rubber?
I don't understand why you said rubbers
Actually nvm it doesn't matter I am just going to figure out the silicone lubricant thanks
WD-40 isn't even actually a lubricant.
It is water displacement/protection agent developed for US ICBM program.
40th formulation.
(WD=Water Displacement).
Yes, it works as crappy lubricant, for a time.
And as semi-crappy penetrating oil.
And I do have can in the trunk of my car anyways.
Anyways, dual feed-rollers and separator for my current printer:
The separator doesn't really turn without extra force.
@maiden coyote Remember when I said Unifi U6+ should be enough for my home needs?
I need more 
I'm addicted now and plan on buying some additional products lol
@twin dew update, it wasn't the feeder
It was the separator pressing too hard against the feeder
Yeah, those two are opposing each other once the possible second paper is stopped.
So now it goes through, but we have a new problem. The second set of rollers just... Stops rolling??? And doesn't feed the paper??
I feel like this is every ubiquiti owner
Hope they don't do an Apple
(lock eco system, products only work with products of same brand etc)
I feel like that’d not end in their favor given how late into their company life they are
And it is still the balance probably.
The pickup roller being too weak and the separator being too strong.
And not feeding the paper forward fast enough.
Let me try reducing some tension on the separator then
So the process stops.
Problem is that making the separator weaker, you increase risk of dual-feed.
Well update, weakening the separator does not change the feed speed
Also, the rollers stop rolling after refresh, not in the middle of the print so my bad
For some reason they won't start rolling. I really doubt there's a sensor I forgot to plug in
Maybe its a firmware problem
No that doesn't make sense
Only one would be that first feed status sensor, usually optical, but some printers did use microswitches.
That gets toggled when the paper starts to feed.
Might be between the pickup roller and next, or at or after the next roller.
white or black keyboard, which one do yall prefer
ig its preference, ive never tried anything white cause im worried sweat is gonna turn them yellow 😂
brother you gotta start to make some decisions in your life on your own 
just asking for preference lol
it makes no difference anyway
you're so close to start asking us if you should go for "sports fresh" or "active power" shampoo
(sports fresh is better)
baldur can you do my taxes for me 🥺
what is active power even supposed to mean lol
ive never seen that kinda labeling
I was close
crazy
Here, we don't have to do taxes for received salary 
The employer is responsible for calculating taxes (and deducting them from your salary)
Croatia
so its the same as sales tax? where the seller is responsible for adding the tax price to the product and he pays it in the end
how most jobs in america do it too iirc
Here, all prices include VAT and the burden of paying VAT is moved to customers
You already pay taxes when you buy something in the store
happens in Germany too - you should still file an income tax report, it's very likely that your employer missed some info on the calculations
that happens in every country
thats just how vat works
not in the US
huh?
you have to manually file your VAT taxes? for every product you have bought the whole year?
thats always the seller's job
Regarding salaries, guess in some countries you receive the salary and you have to calculate taxes by yourself
Mixing payroll taxed and VAT.
i think firework was talking about vat since he was replying to asablic
no, VAT is added at checkout but the product prices you see don't include it
Yeah, VAT and salary taxes are different things
i love being taxed on the money i make and the money i spend(its the same money)
you can deduct VAT from products if it was a business expense (at least here in Germany) so you don't pay the tax twice
oh damn
that is.... pointless
also, VAT rates are different across US states
In US, the VAT can depend on the exact county, not just state...
and are generally lower than in Europe - even Germany's reduced rate of 7% would be comparably high in the US
Online stores here in EU with higher revenue charge VAT rate depending on where the product is being shipped to
For example, if I order something from Amazon.de and decide to ship it to a german mailbox, I will pay 19% german VAT rate
But if I order something from Amazon.de and ship it to Croatia, I will pay 25% VAT rate
which I think might even be mandated by law: if you do business in a certain country or offer business in that country, you have to file your taxes in that country
I think Amazon got away with that for a long time by being active in the entire EU and only paying sales tax in like Ireland or Luxembourg where it's super low
There is yearly revenue limit when you need to start doing that.
For selling out of your own country.
Yeah, I remember it was something about this
Don't remember if the limit was per destination country, or just into EU in general.
Small online shops that have low revenue probably only charge local VAT
We have the second highest VAT in Europe 😭
Going to be raised to 25.5% in Finland.
💀
Pro tip: when shopping online, you can use parcel forwarding service to pay lower VAT
This is 100% legal btw (inside EU)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEaGyCAS9fY man now I want a device equipped with this
At the Linaro booth during Embedded World 2024, Tim Benton, Vice President of Engineering at Linaro, discussed the integration of Linux with Snapdragon X1 Elite laptops. This collaboration between Linaro and Qualcomm has resulted in a full Linux experience on Snapdragon chips, with Benton highlighting excellent performance comparable to Apple's ...
I don't understand this at all
There is an ifixit guide for a different error but the same printer. In 2 of the pictures, I see a blue cable that I'm missing. It could potentially be a sensor, but I'm unsure. Based on the pictures, it's on the opposite side of the printer as the board it plugs into. But this makes zero sense as I've pretty much disassembled that entire side and I see no such cable.
Maybe it's the reason it won't feed, maybe it's not. I don't remember there ever being a cable plugged in there to begin with
Is it worth the risk to try jumping it and see what happens?
I'm gonna need your takes on this:
When buying a used NVMe drive, is there a serious risk of the drive being malware-infested (either through files on it or in firmware)?
"serious" in the sense of "you should take precautions against it"
And if so, which ones?
just erase disk to be safe?
after searching for desks for a while apparently all of them are chipboard these days
i cant find any big-sized wood one for less than 250 😔
guess chipboard it is, ill just try to get a thick one
why not make your own?
that would be hard
cutting the wood and polishing it to the shape i want then attaching legs to it
im not experienced with these things haha
sometimes you can find cheap second hand frames. Then all you need is the wood.
If you lucky, it's around 250
yeah, still quite a bit
well you're paying for the extra quality no doubt about that
i think ill go with chipboard, if its thick enough it should support my stuff
which one you think is gonna be more rigid
im between these 2
left
one is ikea other one is boomer furniture (still chipboard dont be fooled)
the center piece holds the sides together, so that makes it more rigid.
These are some refurbished ones. Second hands I believe.
I myself, I would go for metal frame.
Yeah, but it's up to you ofc 🙂
I just like metal since it's very sturdy. It does weigh a bit more. But then I am sure it can hold the weight.
and most desks that are for offices are bricks 😄 (the quality ones)
That solves the file part but not the firmware part
Yeah, I know. But that's a bit paranoid no?
make it 55th
The % chance of someone going through the trouble of messing with the firmware and selling the disk second hand ...
You could have your identity stolen or similar.
But yeah, I agree, it's paranoid
Yup... I have a 200x80cm office desk at home... it weighs a ton.
If I knew I was a target I wouldn't be buying second hand drives
your identy is already stolen
it's probably in some database already
but yeah I know what you mean.
Still, it's not a massive vector of attack is it?
Selling second hand disks (which cost money) to put malware into the firmware (which is difficult) and then to sell it second hand.
You might reach what? a few 10-50 people if you are lucky? 😂
Honestly, just my common sense here, I highly doubt it. I think software is a better target for hackers.
For how long do you have it if I may ask?
In my experience, they can last for a very long time.
3 years now.
Exactly, if I were to go through all this effort, I'd find a more lucrative target than some random dude on ebay
is that a metaphor
or does it actually way a ton
Also, if you just want random people's identities, phishing emails are much easier to set up and will bring more success overall
Yeah, fish in the biggest pond you can. (Or ocean) 😂
but there are a lot of stories about those usb's that get left behind in strange places
oh i got a lot of stories about usbs
one time we found a usb on school floor, it was from the pe teacher apparently
Those are targeted attacks tho.
You leave them in a company's parking lot hoping that an employee picks it up and connects it to a PC inside the network
it was full of cracked 2005 software
When selling a drive on FB marketplace, you don't know who your target will be
bro like everything
he also was apparently carrying SCANS OF HIS ID
on an unencrypted flash drive
literal scans of his whole family's IDs, and a txt file with every single password he has on every site
I would have roasted that PE teacher.
Let him search for it for a while or something.
bro we are in a central school these people are like 50something
give em a break
hes lucky i found it though, could have been in much worse hands
not like i didnt have a good laugh
all of his passwords were his favorite football team
But it's for their own sake.
Metaphor, but it's pretty heavy the wood alone around, almost 40Kg (rounded up)
That's just dumb.
yeah returned it after some weeks
What if someone with bad intentions found it, used the passwords to login into FB or something and cause some major damage by posting rude things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN14KYOa0O8 I was also thinking of stuff like this.
Part 1: https://youtu.be/m1_1rbMLneY
Today, We will be plugging in a usb that has dangerous viruses on it. These malwares were placed on a usb that was within an eBay Mystery Box. This is how a USB gave me a computer virus.
Check out my Patreon for exclusive content that can't be uploaded to YouTube! ▶ https://www.patreon.com/cryptonwo
Social...
They were invented SPECIFICALLY to spite technicians
Why I don't trust USB devices 
Yeah but the description: "Today, We will be plugging in a usb that has dangerous viruses on it. These malwares were placed on a usb that was within an eBay Mystery Box. This is how a USB gave me a computer virus." 😂
he had his fucking bank passwords inside
Mystery Box 
Oh shit, it was inside a virtual box and it spread to his main PC? 🤣
Anyway this is my plan I'm gonna put a same-width desk in the place of my old one and a chest of drawers to the right
It's gonna be super epic, and I will finally have enough space to not be forced to have my monitor as left as possible
how is that even possible what

Well, if it can detect it's inside a virtual machine
it's possible to write malicious code to try to break outside it.
but, that's some advanced shit lol.
Virtualization softwares can have vulnerabilities that allow for this very thing.
It's why airgap computers still are a thing
Fuck yeah I finally finished this stupid fire extinguisher robot project. Every teammate except the programmer was lowkey useless and there were 7 of us in total.
You can see from the video how the plastic cover piece is awfully covering it due to some very questionable construction choices from some of the useless people. In the pic you can see where I fixed it.
Should get a better video in like 2.5 weeks
ahh shit here we go again
It's a disease.. and there's no cure
if my motherboard has a bunch of black minijack ports, but one is orange ...
is the orange one that special tripple minijack that supports mic/headset in one plug?
guessing its not .... i need some sort of 3 pin splitter or something for my headset ... ? cause it only has ONE plug (with the three bands)
strange how this is a brand new motherboard z790a chipset ... yet it doesnt have the newer standard in/out 3.5mm jack for a headset
unless this header supports it ... but i would need whatever could plug into the header ... hmm
your motherboard supports 2 channels on the microphone, your headset doesn't.
but this is what you need.
k, just ordered the UGREEN version (im a fan of their cable crap)
made sure its CTIA spec
now i know i can set Discord to specify an output device (the headset ear) ... but i dont think i will be able too in games where I need to use PTT (cause not everyone in the game is in the same discord server/chat channel) ... like HELLDIVERS2
You can do that through windows, it works fairly well
Settings > system > sound > volume mixer
i dont want to negatively affect the 5.1 standard audio output though... setting default device in windows control panel entirely musses that up
(thanks Creative!)
Did you go to the settings page I'm talking about?
i cant right now... pc is shut down and nothing is hooked up because i need that splitter first
but windows will know where to send voice communication through a different device than default ?
having it pick up the mic (me talking) should be straight forward enough ... but having it chose the headset for other people talking (when its not Discord app)... not sure how
unless the games output on a different channel that windows uses/assigns ? that could work
its been forever since ive used in-game chat features ... normally im sitting in a discord channel with whom im playing the game with and we just chat through discord 😄
windows will let you specify app/device combos
for input and output. like an app input could be device a while the same app outputs on device b
I guess its 56th
@edgy hazel sorry to ask you in the middle of the night, do you have any advice on what desk I should buy from a very specific regional retalier?
Guys correctly told you baout splitter. I honestly was gladly surprised when my asus headset got one of these, with it.
I would also recommend buying a longer one, to make clean setup. Cable will stay while headsets may change.
What is it?..
yeah ... a longer one may be nicer to have than using an extension cable i have
although every single splitter i was looking at... were all short like max sized one was only 8inchs about
oh wait, there was an 8 FOOT one, but it was expensive lol so i was like ... naw ... i dont need 8 fricken feet of it
Lmao
The IKEA on right has metal frame with square metal bar between the left and right visible sides.
But the tabletop is particle board.
Left depends on what material it actually is.
2m is just about what you need to pass it behind the desk
I have some cheap one and after 3 or so years it can make noise on mic channel when contact is slightly off
But other than that - its great thing to have definitely better than sticking 2 cables every time
Am I stupid or the cpp documentation is misleading? Im trying to create a copy constructor, which takes a volatile T, and trying to default it, but compiler be like nope...
Cppreference has this in the syntax.
class-name::class-name(single-parameter-list) =default;
Single-parameter-list - a parameter list of only one parameter, which is of type T&, const T&, volatile T& or const volatile T& and does not have a default argument
I'm not a cpp dev, but it states you need to pass a T& instead of just a T
I don't think you can pass by value here, which is probably what happens if you don't add the ampersand after the type
I pass it as a reference.
Still error
Was hoping I didnt have to write a body the default would be able to do for me.
Baldur sorry for waking you up at 4am can you help me do my car payments
It do be like that
lol damnit amazon shipped it too fast i cant cancel my order for the 8"(20cm) splitter ... oh well !
is 10.9V concerningly low for a battery that should be at about 13.5V ish
and thats 10.9V at 100% charge
What battery is it?
just a dell laptop battery
No it's not, voltage defines state of charge lol
4-cell laptop battery?
With one cell almost completely dead.
So extreme fire hazard.
Li-ion 4-cell.
well yea im asking because the wears up to 42% and its been hissing for like 30 hours
And I have stated long time ago that the battery was dangerous...
When you could use it at 0% "charge" for long time.
government property so its not my problem
I don't understand why you need us to be your common sense
i told them and they practically said use it or pay for it
Will it be your problem when it blows up in your face? Also your tax dollars will pay for that when you start paying taxes
maby but then il have a point to make against them
Do not keep using it, and absolutely do not ever charge that battery again
properly dispose of it so you don't set the garbage truck on fire
Cannot, when the school district person is idiot..
well bad timming on that one
And it is school property...
realistically wouldent it turn into a pregnant battery if it dident blow up?
oh well.... it probably did but because this thing has a metal frame it probably just punctured it hence the hisssing i was hearing...
If it is making noise, it is already in runaway, just slow enough that it isn't right now dangerous.
But soon it will run out of space and start emitting toxic fumes.
So turn the fucker off, remove the battery if possible and get it outside on something non-flammable.
well it stopped making noise now but it was for like about 30 hours
i would if i dident need this thing until the 7th of may 💀
Was it some IT person who wasn't willing to swap the laptop?
Or just your teacher?
neither the technician or district wants anything to do whit it so im kinda at a standstill
either i change it myself illigally or i just risk having it blow up until then
so neither option is good and the results arent good either
Get signed documentation about the issue.
For the case that your house burns down or similar cases because of the laptop.
That you tried to get the laptop replaced because of fire danger, and were denied.
That should work
Tell the technician that you want documentation that you're being refused replacement for a faulty battery
He'll either just replace it or you butt will be covered when the thing potentially goes off
And are your parents aware of the issue and refusal?
no
Then make them aware ASAP.
I didn't take lipo fires seriously until I got into rc cars
Then I saw a 5ah 3s pack go off and decided to take it seriously
The worst case ones, yes.
But even just non-fire discharge is very toxic and dangerous inside.
Yea a battery that’s highly flammable is definitely something I’d keep around if it’s hissing
Kept charging and using it...
Hey y'all, I need your advice.
I'm looking for a thingamajig or a thingamabob, which is best? it can only be from this one local shop tho which you've never heard of
I don't know, come back and ask again every 12 hours for the rest of the week
Okay, thanks, I will
assuming your use-case is to use it as a hongleding, you're best set with a thingamabob instead of a thingamajig. There are several options where the minimum price is way above of what you're ready to spend, of course you can and probably will buy something similar from amazon for a quarter of the price and then you will complain 3 days later that it doesn't fit, is absolutely useless for what you want to do and is already falling apart.
i need to format my PC badly my windows installation is super corrupted but im scared im gonna forget to backup something after its too late
is it possible to dual boot 2 windows installations
so i still have the old one incase i need to recover any files
Not an issue with UEFI/GPT boot anymore.
Just for old BIOS/MBR boot where Windows would overwrite boot loaders.
oh, i was thinking on the same drive
you know its just INSANELY corrupted
the discord installer exe literally errors
ive tried everything
spotify also refuses to open, firefox crashes at rtandom times, the whole pc crashes at random times
yeah i have UEFI, i should be good then?
a 100gb partition should work
and i add more to it later
Just have unpartitioned space on a drive and select to use that.
Spotify desktop is unusable
yeah bro some songs straight up dont exist on it, they are invisible on my playlist
That happens with licensing issues that cause them to be removed
works fine for me
My issue is that it doesn't want to play nicely with my audio driver, becomes unresponsive after about two hours of being open, and doesn't work with media keys
And also the fact that they think 10gb is a reasonable cache size 💀
Something specific to your system...
I can use it without issues for multiple weeks.
And media keys work fine.
This all used to work, quit working a few months ago and I haven't been able to fix it 🤷♂️
As in Spotify not shut down at all for multiple weeks, with Windows running continously.
Yeah, I'd been doing that for years
I suspect that this is one of those issues that will only be fixed with a windows reinstall
But it gets to the point where it takes well over a minute to load playlists or respond to me clicking on the play/pause button
works fine on linux 
Works fine in my browser too
cant imagine using spotify
well sorry i dont have like 2 grand to blow on a new laptop 🤷♂️
a new battery isn't 2k
There are plenty of used laptops on ebay for like 100 bucks that would be enough to get you through
Not to mention the fact that you blew more than that on your pc in the first place buying overpriced hardware 
i bought the cheapest new 4070ti bought the cheapest new 13700K bought the cheapest snx watever the heck ssd's 50% off
i saved money on the expensive things
not the fans tho il admit that
and also we're not forcing you to buy a new laptop. We've made you aware of the risks. It's up to you to either act on them or ignore it
You also could've bought a used 6800xt for like 540cad at the time
but my point is i dont have money to blow on a new laptop because i still owe 1200$ on said desktop
You borrowed money for that pc? 
You could also get a new battery instead....
School owned loaner laptop...
well yea started whit only 800$ payed back like 2400ish out of the like 3600$ it costed after tax
yeah fuck that. Tell the school that the laptop isn't working properly
be happy that golden isn't here rn
Start sending a lot of emails, save them, save responses if you get any, and then carry a fire extimguisher that can put out battery fires
and don't keep it in the same place that you sleep
That too
And tell your parents about the issue...
That as well
That the school provided laptop is currently a fire hazard because of broken Li-ion battery.
At least in the US, schools are terrified of parents because of lawsuits
And in this case, there could be grounds for a pretty big ass suit
Oooh its a 2 pack
Normal fire extinguishers don't help with Li-ion fires.
Need to either cool it down, or suffocate and get it out.
bucket o sand
Its an ABC, dry chemical, should work on li-ion
barrel of sand works too
Barrel of sand is heavy
buket
Mobilesentrix is nice for phone parts (although I assume they're all aftermarket) but do you guys know of any wholesale laptop part sellers
All the ones I've found are chinese or selling used stuff
Laptop manufacturers keep the spare parts close to their chest.
Some do have spare parts sellers, but usually limited to one per continent and pain to find.
So his parents did pay for it
Lenovo seems to have moved it to internal, used to still be through horrible IBM system:
support.lenovo.com/us/en/parts-lookup
(should ask to move to correct country with popup)
In EU Acer and Asus are only through www.zandparts.com/en/ AFAIK for example.
Yeah lenovo parts thing is great
Most of the time eBay has parts and is likely fine for most of the things
filling a laptop whit sand isent a solution 
and sand would defedently not improve the corosion problem either
no it's so you can throw it in there while you inhale all that sweet sweet sulphurdioxide
More like dump the sand on the laptop, and hope it doesn't burn through whatever it is sitting on.
yup, splitter cable too short... ordered a 4 foot splitter this time
Pocket sand
well i guess atleast id be able to say i went down whit my ship 
with your ship being a surfboard you borrowed from a rental shop
not really worth going down with
well best case scenario it lasts until summer i return it to them and then it burns the entire school down over the summer
and they will have regreted refusing the battery replacement
problem solved
worst case you wake up at night to choking, die a painful death and kill everyone in the house
because you were too lazy to get a replacement from your school
im not going to court or something over a battery replacement
Or you burn to death in a house fire
have you ever even asked?
Apparently school IT guy said no
the normal way and face to face whit the technician
So I'd recommend going and asking for documentation that you're being denied the replacement
then I guess you won't have a school laptop or risk killing multiple innocent people and yourself
choice is yours
I don't fuck around with batteries
lithium is scary
im not declining that lithium is dangerous
and if you really really need a school laptop you could always sell that 4070ti and get a chromebook and a used 6700xt
funny because that 4070ti is the only reasson the laptop is still even usable
how many charge cycles are lithium ion batteries even rated for like 1000 right?
And you need to define what you mean by a charge cycle, and under what conditions it's carried out to even begin to approach any sort of conclusion
plugged in a charged back to 100%
full discharge at like 35W charge rate i believe
that's like your average modern phone
either way its defedently way the heck over
its at like 22000 charge cycles
just averaging the amount i charge it
No battery would reasonably be rated to full discharge because they're never designed to be drained that low under normal operation
well then idk 0-30% to full on average then
That would be 30 years charging twice a day
You would've got a more realistic number from dropping nsomething on your keyboard
i charge it 10 times a day
531415
That's still 6 years
anyways that battery is toast
365 days X 6 years X 10 cycles (on average)
21,900
to be fair its probably more around maby 18000 because i obviously dont use it EVERY DAY of the year but still its way over none the less
that laptop 100% didn't have 10 charge cycles a day when it was new
you have 10 cycles because you play with a fire hazard
it had about 3 but i used it half as much back then
and it had double the capcity from said wear not existing
anyways. Let us know when it bursts into flames
will do
and if it dosent il make sure to light it myself
sure gonna take a while whit the shit cpu its powering only drawing 3W
durnit ... if i plug my headset into my Creative SB-Z card (seperate mic and headphone ports) ... i can use the microphone as a device, but i cannot use the headphone port as a device is if i try it completely overrides all the other ports to the 5.1 speaker system.
the Creative software (and hardware) apparently is incapable of making the 'headphone jack' and the 'surround speakers jacks' as two devices to choose/mix/use
grr, Creative .... so this means im gonna have to use the onboard mb headphone jack and install that crap Realtek software just to use it lol ... sigh fml
stable internet
i smell sarcasm
that's not ping that's pong
IP over USPS
Why borrow money for a pc when you could have just spend less and gotten a pc that runs most games at 60fps at 1080p?
because i allready had one
4070ti is definitely not worth it if you’re borrowing money to get it…
i allready had a pc its just it wasent worth fixing and i wasent gonna sell a broken piece of shit to someone for full price
i just started from scratch and built a new one
but because i only had 800$ at the time i wasent gonna build a worst pc than i allready owned
Right, so my point about going into debt to buy a computer still stands
If your old pc was already better than an 800$ build, was it really worth building one for 2000?
So buy a new gpu or get the warranty to replace it
Replacing the whole pc sounds insane
new GPU = new psu new psu= new case new case= new motherboard new motherboard = new cpu and then you realise its not worth fixing a dam thing
New gpu =! Upgrade gpu 😐
well i did achieve that all it took was 3600$ and 2 months
so i guess i just took the long way around
Plus you can get upgraded gpu without all this unnecessary bs
I upgraded nothing but my gpu from a 790 to a 1650
For 250
That’s all it cost
going from a 1660 super to anything else 6pin whit sub 150W power draw would have been a pointless standstill anyway
.
honestly had more fun downgrading than i did upgrading
trying to make modern games run on crap parts is honestly a significantly better way to learn stuff...
Hmm. Seems like somone was paid off
What's wrong with your gpu now
It's a 4070
It's good
oh the 4070TI is fine
Brother if I can oc a 6700XT to beat a 7700XT
everything else is insuficient however
What's wrong with everything else
Have you tried a contact frame
And why a new psu?
Yours works
Userbenchmark moment
Absolutely
Oh I didn't tell you yet
I got 2915mhz stable on my 6700XT
Needed to change the VF curve
Oh sick
It runs a bit cooler at max power
But still high
Reapplied ptm so at 277w I get 85c avg and 101c hotspot
🤣 well yea
To help heep the gpu from choking itself out lol
I now have two bioses I can use
Silent and oc extreme
silent & screaming
As RDNA2/3 rt pref is scaling with core clock more the cu count I've seen
Nothings Wrong whit everything else other than the fact I need MORE POWA
for my shenanigans of cours
my cpu is almost definitely the bottleneck tho, so idk how much benefit i'd get
Beamng?
ye
well i have my game hooked up to 17 respirators to keep the dang thing alive
For your cpu right
Have you tried
Two things PTM7950
And a contact frame
That will make a world of difference in cooling
Trust me bud I use PTM on my gpu
And I was able to push it well beyond it's actual limit
no but i turned off the Igpu and got rid of 80W of useless extra temperature
well then im still maxed out on ram so not much gain there
- Igpu is nowhere near that power hungry
- Why would it be running at full load anyways
That doesn't matter
Wait what?
How
Debloat you system jeeZ
Or reduce what your workload is
As in all my time of playing games on 32gb
i mean a 12GB idle whit windows only is average
I've never even come over hafl
No absolutely not
I idle like 6-8gb
Sometimes 10 if in busy doing light work
then did you just uninstall every windows service??? 
No
I just have a normal windows install
Win 11
If I wanted to hyper optimize my ram it would be around 2gb
it idled 12Gb on a empty copy of win 11 and on my curent copy it idles like 12-18GB
truly a ddr5 ram moment
Nah that sounds like something wrong
well to be fair firefox is inflating that a significant bit but still
12Gb whit nothing like up to 16-18 whit just background stuff
no games running nothing
Bruhhhhhhhh
Yeah something seems up
Try like fully wiping windows and reinstalling
dam you firefox lol
How much ram is beamng jsing
As 32gb is technically iirc the bare minimum they ask for
17.3GB in the clip i sent
Brugh
Seems typical ig
I guess get a 48/64gb kit
Or a 96 if you are going all out
i had fun learning why it's a bad idea to mix ram capacities
i mean you can literally see it in the clip when i opened task manager
well it says 17,354.4....
But yeah
I suggest a ram upgrade
Start there
And a contact frame and PTM7950 for your cpu
but then that would afect there ever so sensitive neighbor the cpu
dosent having more ram slaughther your cpu stability
It's a ram capacity upgrade and a better TIM and mounting system
Not to an extent
im allready over the rated speed by 800MT/S
Most Intel CPUs can do 7200
whit 64 or even 128GB thats unstable hell
With relative ewase
Just drop some ram speed
Or work on tuning it
Also don't do more then 1DPC
well we prooved that for atleast my case thats wrong a while back
in fact its only stable and even then still whit micro stuters at 4800MHZ ram speed
lol
I sense an issue somewhere else
As my Vermeer system. Lower specced.
Somehow has never had issues
maby motherboard?
Once
if so its gonna be a pain
Ehh
Could be issues with tim
And heat in certain areas
windows listed my 1700X/1660 VR ready 5 years ago
My 5800X and 6700XT are prolly vr ready
Too many sticks does
or it could have been doing the entire break in at 17 quintillion degrees
You got an up to date bios version?
yup
did that 3000 run hours ago now
been making sure i get my moneys worth while it still works
Didn't your house's power delivery suck to the point it destroyed a previous PC?
And didn't your PSU short itself if you bent a cable wrong?
Ah, classic MagicZ
I think bro needs a prebuilt with a warranty
that yes power delivery no
well it expired just like everything else i own
Seems to be one common denominator
its likely to have been hit whit the good old aluminum corrosion slap of shame
And you fixed that immediately by calling in your warranty, right
aluminum stays cold components dont so humidity forms and breaks crap
dident have one so i dident
the only thing that came whit a warranty was the 4070TI and when i claimed it it said invalid warranty so theres that
Any good PSU has at least a 5 year warranty, hell, 10 is more normal as well
So either you bought crap, secondhand or you're wrong
unless 13 warren yard means 13 year warranty then no it does in fact not have one...
Okay, so you did the next best thing and got another PSU, right
I mean, driving a motorcycle on the highway in only a tshirt and jeans will also go right until it doesn't
i have a whole other nuclear bomb im trying to deal whit right now
Which is?
Replace the battery then
we allready went over the whole predicament earlier ➡ #off-topic-tech message
Ah, you were already told to stop using it
Good, then I don't need to state the bleedingly obvious and can return to stating the bleedingly obvious
which im not able to follow because i have a mandatory government test on the 7th of may
i i refuse to belive they would let me take it on this pc
You mean the one that you should not use because it's got faulty power stuff, or the one that you should not use because it's got faulty power stuff?
Unless that one died already and you're on your third PC in a year, which from what I think is happening is dying from faulty power stuff
cant forget about the one that has corupted vram..... and probably some faulty power stuff. yea
3/4 on broken pc's now
In a year?
yea i guess
plus a ipad and a switch thats going out
so basically everything i own is failling at once
I've completely given up on helping this kid with tech stuff because he refuses to listen to advice and only wants help after he breaks something
I have had a PSU fail on me once in my life
Not to mention the fact that he spent months making up or creating problems for us to solve just for laughs
No I know
I'm just impressed at this point that he managed to fuck up 2 more PCs while I wasn't looking
I'm yet to experience a dead pau
whitout touching them even just by simply being close to them
Yeah, it was just a random death 6 years in for my one, replaced it, no more issues other than some frazzled nerves
Only other issues I've had were with 4 ram sticks being unstable and dell, and the latter was more because 16gb of ram is insufficient for software development and not because the hardware was broken
realistically how long until i break the spare pc of the spare pc of the spare pc
Not long
I'd stop buying new computers and start paying an electrician
Or start treating your expensive electronics better
Especially if you're not even paying for them yourself
this one was a good investment $3500 to hold up to 8 years of my tomfoolery whitout being cleaned once is hella impresive
Oh yeah that's even worse
i payed back $2400 of it in 8 months whitout a job give me a break
But yeah given all that you've been having it's seriously a small miracle you didn't start an electrical fire somewhere
Until you pay back all of it, someone else has still paid for part of it
And also dropping 3k on a PC while unemployed is not something to brag about
yea 3500 + 2900 + 3600 = bankrupcy
Bloody hell, that's 10k in total
I haven't even spent half of that on gaming for my entire life, I'm sure of it
I haven't either
Is 10K over 12 years really THAT bad?