#off-topic-tech
1 messages · Page 54 of 1
As much as I wish that I could switch to linux and de-microsoft myself too, that's really not as possible yet
And IMO MS is still the lesser of two evils when compared to Google
For now 
For now
And Linux is darn close to being all the way to where it needs to be for me to switch
However, WSL is still a much cleaner solution than anything avaliable to run my windows apps on Linux
They do scare me a little with all of their "ai" products
Someone high in the leadership got AI Hype Bug.
I'm guessing it's the man Nadella himself
I really need to bother to tune the fan curve stuff...
Running somewhat bursty workload right now and the fans kept pulsing as the response time is too fast and the fan curve too aggressive.
Fortunately not audible once I put the music on.
i think AI might actually be scary enough to get a DMCA replacement going
Man, I've been at it for an hour already.
This one
Can't get that studpid bing gone. And suddenly windows is searching web, while I disabled that for sure.
that's the same one as me. Look at my screenshot again?
Ah, you had that too. Sorry...
Works for me, when I applied it and relogged.
You need to remember that the machine GPO settings only take effect on reboot, relogin or killing and restarting the specific program.
I reloged ofc. (full PC restart even).
doesn't work 🤷♂️
Just a heads up for you. Might that in a few days/weeks, it will not work for you either.
Weird, because works for me.
It had either reset for me or I hadn't forgotten to implement on the new computer.
And had to do it yesterday. Works for the moment.
I am unable to disable co-pilot using the same settings panel 😉 idk if a restart is required, but since there is no info I assume no.
Ah, I also have Copilot disabled.
Ofc we cannot disable it.
Microsoft doesn't like us to have control over our machines. That we paid for.
That Co-Pilot disable is only under the Per user GPO.
And like I said, I just applied it to the Win11 machine few days ago.
Working on both of them running right now.
all good
and I tell you, it doesn't work on this machine.
Baldur, can you check something for me?
Do you have a BingSearchEnabled key in HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search set to 0?
Because that one works out of the box for me. Better than GPO.
Don't have such entry.
Weird.
As in the BingSearchEnabled
Yeah, I just added BingSearchEnabled 0 to HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search and it's gone.
and now it also stopped searching on the web like I asked it.
And you just said you did clean install so, might that the updates messed something up.
Add the key I talked about
And it should be gone. I deleted all the GPO entries since they did jack shit and restarted PC.
It's still gone.
I don't get it, why is my GPO being ignored.
"Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Windows Copilot > Turn off Windows Copilot" this disabled co-pilot on the taskbar. Not the menu it seems.
Baldur, do you have this? "SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsCopilot"
You left the start off.
But for user it is there, as that is probably what the GPO sets.
the "Policies" part
So, if you add Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Windows Copilot > Turn off Windows Copilot, a registry should be made under "SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsCopilot" but that's not happening for me.
Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
Not under machine, just under Local_user, as that is where in GPO I have the Copilot disable set.
yes, in GPO. I am talking registry.
And GPO changes the registry through policy files.
but that's not happening 😒
GPO changes under "Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Windows Copilot > Turn off Windows Copilot" should lead to changes inm REGISTRY under "SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsCopilot"..
So I have set GPO to disable copilot in the user policy, and it has set the Computer\HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsCopilot\TurnOffWindowsCopilot
Thanks 👍
Remember that that specific GP is there only on the user side, so it ends up in the HKEY_CURRENT_USER, not the LOCAL_MACHINE
So for the search disable I have:
Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search\ConnectedSearchUseWeb = 0
Ok, update: registry seems to pick up the GPO changes.
I just disabled co-pilot in GPO, checked registry and value was 0. Restarted PC, checked registry and now value is 1.
But, then it get's ignored by my OS since I still have it in my menu.
From microsoft: "... is policy setting allows you to turn off Copilot in Windows. If you enable this policy setting, users can't use Copilot in Windows and the icon doesn't appear on the taskbar either. "
Wow. Finally find the GPO value. And it's not what one would expect.
This one, removes bing + web searched in the menubar for me.
Why? I am not 100% sure. Probably breaks something underneath that Co-Pilot needs to function 🤷♂️
<@&387163995947270144> @severe monolith has been trying to post links to several channels multiple times today.
And the username suggest it might be a bot.
Weird with the old user on the server tho.
old user?
thats what you meant.
Sadly many old accounts are getting compromised as well
I had to ban some account which was over 6 years on the Raft server recently.
It's sad, usually it's people falling for phishing scams
The worst ones: "please verify your account by scanning this QR code with the 'scan QR code' functionality in your discord settings"
It's "exploiting" bad UI, because Discord doesn't tell you that this feature gives another device control over your account
any suggestions for a good 75% keyboard?
or tkl
just a cheap one that works, nothing special. i have a g413 rn
but its so big that my mousepad has to be very far right
What Gaming PC would you suggest for 3.500€
This one
Part List - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, Radeon RX 7900 XTX, Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower
If you want to go closer to your budget, let me know and I'll tweak some specs
It was built with US prices in mind but should still fall well within budget
what about tkl?
Horrendously overpriced cooler
overkill RAM
Overpriced SSD
Awfully overpriced GPU
Case lacks proper fans
Overkill PSU
Overpriced keyboard
Mediocre mouse
What is going on lately with this discord server? So many bots 😒 And spammers.
Some discord communities force phone numbers to combat this. So you need to enter your phone number before you can post in there.
Doesn't matter if someone hijacks a verified account through phishing - which sadly is much more common than straight up bot accounts
I was thinking it was more of a 2FA mechanic. You join discord server, it asks for phonenumber, sends you code, you enter code, then you can post in that discord server.
I never bothered with it, because I find this protection overly agressive, and I don't want to share my number with discord. But I know it exists.
If someone account is hacked, then the person who got hacked will get codes send to their phone. So the hacker/bot can't post, since it doesn't know the code.
If you try to adjust the phonenumber to an online one, or throwaway, it also gets rejected.
it is impossible to make a 3000$ pc without everything being overpriced
That's why bots don't join servers and just post in servers that were already joined by the user whose account they took over
good value for money GPUs do not cost 1000$
parts are usually said to be overpriced when:
- there is a similar product available for cheaper that looks/performs the same
- it's way over its suggested Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP)/other similar products' retail price
- there are products that perform slightly (~0-8%) worse but at cheaper prices (depending on the part, $10-$200)
A 7900xtx costs around $900. This one is $1300.
A good air cooler can be had for $50. This one is $130.
That's what I mean by overpriced
Yes, the parts are expensive, but that's not the issue here.
The issue is the amount spent on stuff when you could get something similar for much less
oh, you mean overpriced as in above MSRP
But this server doesn't have phone number requirement to begin with.
i thought you meant value for money
copypasta
the more info you give the better
- when you'll be buying (lists become outdated quickly)
- country and total budget, peripherals included, in local currency
- what games will you be playing at what resolution?
- if you're using the PC for work, what software?
- functional requirements (encoder for streaming, Wifi, amount of storage, size)
- aesthetic preferences (AIO, color scheme, RGB/blackout)
3 weeks
No. I literally mean "you can get something similar for much less".
I mean value.
Why planning a list early isn't recommended:
• Prices in your list can change over time.
• Prices for competing, alternative parts can go down, making your list more expensive or otherwise less ideal by comparison.
• Supply changes - your intended parts may run out of stock.
• New products may release that may be better than your initial choices, and could make your list less up-to-date.
• Confirmation bias - you may be more likely to stick to your first parts list, even if it's worse than another list made closer to the time you intend to purchase.
Come back when you are actually buying
As an example, the prices of 7800X3D for only this month:
Even better example: price of RM1000e in Germany over the last 60 days, excluding Amazon
7800x3d sounds so freaking worth it now
how the hell is it only 400
2TB 980 Pro over 60 days
It was $299 at microcenter once
had it for 145 offer at some point for a friend iirc
was a good buy
my friend got lucky on this
USD yes
it was refurbished or what
I'm talking euro
I'm talking USD because it was a US deal
The fuck was Gamestop smoking?
2tb 990 pro
Yeah, got me one. Not installed yet. Want to see what happens to this CPU first.
1tb 980 was like 50usd not that long ago
This is a 3500e build man
The ssd is pricey but it's also one of the most reliable out there. Same goes for the PSU. The ram is pricey but I wouldn't dare spec less than that in a build over 3k
The gpu might be overpriced, I built this list a while ago
And the keyboard and mouse were specifically selected for the person I originally built this for
I gave that list as a starting point, not a "buy this now"
The SSD is overpriced as shit and has no business being this expensive.
PSU I didn't judge the price of, you just don't need 1kW with that kind of build, even 850W is plenty.
Rest of the points are acceptable knowing it's an outdated list
It's a list that doesn't deserve endorsement.
The required context of "this was made some time ago and needs to be reworked" was definitely missing
I specced that ssd because of all the component swaps we've been seeing so many component swaps on other models
So yeah, there's probably something that's a better deal
Nvm, $261 isn't awfully overpriced
Had old prices in mind. It's still not an ideal pick
I don't see any point in going under 1kw on a build like that though, especially if they decide to jump to a 4080s or something
Tbf, I have no idea how SM2264 ranks up
Not even a 4090 would saturate a good 850W unit
If it had a 14900K, sure. But not with a 100W 7800X3D
Current pick for me would be $220 4TB US75 probably
I miss $150 4TB P3 Plus, great value for a secondary drive
@twin dew I heard you could help me with routers could you recommend me a more budget router? I was thinking something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Integrated-Lightening-Protection-TL-R605/dp/B08QTXNWZ1?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 since I don't need wifi
That was what selected few months ago for my fathers fiber.
But it hasn't been deployed yet.
Needs beta-BIOS to have stateful firewall & NAT.
The latest "stable" still has only stateless firewall, that doesn't allow for NAT punchthrough etc.
So what would you recommend around this price range?
That, just that it needs the firmware from their forum.
Just trying to locate it again, they might have redone the pages.
#off-topic-media message
showed this to my technician and watched his head spin
how tf
I know just as much as you do
Electrically speaking it works fine, fairly low powered devices so nothing should overheat.
From a safety standpoint... well... yeah...
They have finally released new stable at end of January.
how would I go about doing the firmware update just through the app or is there more than that?
Ah, might have been that they only added IPv6 firewall capability in 2.2.2.
And 2.1 was where they added stateful IPv4 firewall.
so I'll have to upgrade to 2.2.3 then 2.2.4
Probably straight to 2.2.4?
They just have older there available.
But there should be update instructions on those support pages.
Ah, yeah, they state that for 2.2.4 you must be on 2.2.3.
ok thanks I'll buy it now
@twin dew my 5600 before I swap up to the 5800x is handling 1933/4000 stable. Yes I know its decoupled but if I go any higher the CPU hates it. And if I go any higher in ram speed I basically say goodbye to my operating system. So far in testing I'm still reaping benifits of faster ram wile the desynchronization of flck and ram is not that bad at 66mhz off
How is the RAM latency?
That is what should go to shitter, not bandwidth.
Ram latency is still in shitter even without desync. Passmark score scored it at 46 without and 47 with the desync
Use smth better than passmark
Is there a better test I can use
Intel® Memory Latency Checker (Intel® MLC) is a tool used to measure memory latencies and b/w, and how they change with increasing load on the system. It also provides several options for more fine-grained investigation where b/w and latencies from a specific set of cores to caches or memory can be measured as well.
Baller
Will give it a go here when I get home
I'm expecting to be shown completely abysmal latency penalty
Maybe AMD has been able to get it better with current AGESAs even on the old hardware.
This claims to be highly unstable lol: https://github.com/ChipsandCheese/CnC_GUI
No UI: https://github.com/ChipsandCheese/Microbenchmarks
That Intel is command line tool too.
But it is just "run once and get all the results", then that microbenchmark one is much more complex.
Should work for a simple comparison yeah
I'll run a latency test with and without the overclocm
I wanna see if I can dial in timings a bit as its micron rev F
So it's half decent
Definitely not S8B but not bad
Tho 32gb is gonna make it slightly more difficult
And the Intel doesn't just give one number, it tests across size and read-write balance too, just with fixed settings.
But if I can get some tightened timings to mabey reduce the latency penalty might be kinda baller ngl
As the bandwith is kinda nice
For games that make use of it
So it could be as bad as 5% if I can close the gap as much as possible
In latency penalty
And I'm only off by 66mhz so its not too far off
I will see if I can get it lower
Will 1967mhz flck work
"A Dutch man was fined 380 euros ($400) after an AI-powered camera caught him talking on his phone while driving. Only he claims he was only scratching his head and the system made a mistake." 🤣
how do i use this?
Extract, launch command prompt into the directory, run.
The separate prompt so that the window doesn't just close on completion.
First priiiiiiint
ender v2 neo
I'm honestly kinda blown away. This is still on medium quality setting and took only an hour (with way too much support, I'm still learning lmao)
it's tinyyyy
Yeah, it's a crazy affordable tech
And sla printing is also starting to get a lot cheaper
3d printer that prints in lead ....
ive got a 20lb box of 'lead figures' from my day as a kid 😄
was fun painting those.... mmm testors paints ... mmm .... maybe its why i am the way i am today .... mmm .... toxic smells ....
I can't get over how small he is
Hmm, middle click is dying on my g403
Can you do the same print in "higher" quality to compare them?
Or is the file/render not high enough quality to print?
it's at 0.2mm rn. I can go down to 0.12
but time scales linear here
and it's just to damn small. For normal minis this is more than enough
warhammer here I come 😂
always find those warhamer statues a bit pricy for me. And you have to paint em too. Pff. Rather 3d print em then 😂 (if I had printer)
Stuff like that
was fun back in the day, going to the hobby store and looking over all the cool lead figures .... deciding what to spend my meager allowance on ... some being insanely priced at like $20 !! ...
and I have shakey hands, so I cannot paint details 😂
these days yeah same ....
I would have an army of clowns.
And I think if you want to buy painted ones, they even more expensive.
i have bouts of 'steadiness', but not enough to sit down for long to paint a whole figure anymore
yeah, but then its like 'whats the fun?' ...... its like buying a puzzle already made 😄
well, the warhammer stuff yeah ...
i never bought warhammer figures, wasnt into it
If you don't know, you roll dice, measure with a lint and that's your movement etc.
That's all I know about the game 😂
but I know it's a full game, so painting statues is only one part of the story. For some it stops there (collectors). But some want costum armies to fight.
i had painted all the figures in a Feudal game set (bought a second of it just to paint all the figures)
Feudal is a chess-like board wargame for 2–6 players on two or four opposing sides. It was originally published by 3M Company in 1967 as part of its bookshelf game series, and was republished by Avalon Hill after they purchased 3M's game division. The object of the game is to either occupy one's opponent's castle or to capture all of one's opp...
Happy with the results?
back then yeah ... i'd prolly be more picky and scoff at my work these days though
"you didnt start with a base" ... "the shadowing is off" ... "where is the light metalic scuffwork?"
pondering where the boxed set is .... gotta be in one of my moving boxes i never unpacked in the basement
ive a pile of moving boxes i never unpacked (books mostly) because i dont have a built in bookshelf in this house, and never bought a free-standing bookshelf either
so like all my figures, collector toys, books, books, more books ... all still in boxes LOL
for that day i move into a house with built-ins again (or eventually finally break down and buy a bunch of freestanding shelves)
Yo what is a good beginner 3d printer for cheap
How cheap is cheap?
Buy it used in that price range
What ones r good for beginners
Something with auto bed leveling, direct drive
Otherwise nothing in that price range will make a ton of difference
What r some good ones
Most all of them are good in at lesat one or two ways
Prusa has some good entry-level printers
And the ender-3 series has been a go-to for a long time
Could u send a link
Nope
Wait dosbt the ended 3 not have auto belt leveling
Some do, some don't
Has quite a few issues
R there any better models
Any of the ender 3 variants are better than the base
I find this kind of thing so incredibly frustrating
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2024/02/hdmi-forum-to-amd-no-you-cant-make-an-open-source-hdmi-2-1-driver/
This is why we can't have nice things
EU killed the lightning port, do they have any way to go after HDMI?
Why would that matter? Lightning didn't die because the EU went after Apple, they made USB-C mandatory on certain devices. And Apple chose to kill lightning on their own, rather than including lightning and USB-C on devices. If TVs were required to have USB-C alongside HDMI, I don't think that'd be nearly as devastating because TVs aren't as constrained by package size. But it'd sure be nice to have both on there.
Tbh, it's convenient to have one connection. You just need one type of cable. Console -> TV = HDMI. Console -> Monitor = HDMI. PC -> TV = HDMI. Laptop -> Monitor = HDMI. Makes it a lot easier.
I'd rather see it all go to display port
And I sincerely hope that the EU would never makes closed standard with licensing fees mandatory
i dont think there will be a day where i can surpass 30fps in anything at this rate
32/32gb of ram ussage XD
I need MOOOORRREEEE
oh you know its a little cpu intensive game called Beamng.drive
pinned out my 13700K
maxed out my 32Gb of ram
maxed out my 12gb of Vram
and thats about it gpu dident really care other than vram because nothing else was keeping up
i am genuenly considering geting a 64gb or 128gb kit of ram to swap in whenever stuff like this happens
Why stop there? Can go to 256gb now with most newer motherboards.
sy goodbye to spedd lol
say
24Gb DDR5 Hynix-A die is the fastest there currently is.
So you can get 2x48GB 2Rx8 with two DIMMs that are faster than most 2x16GB 1Rx8.
My RAM settings are currently on stock 4800MT/s JEDEC all-auto, so the results are shit.
But as example what Intel MLC tests:
And I was running various browser instances etc. at same time.
Which caused the latency bump at the last of the delay-latency-bandwidth measurements from other things going on.
If you have multi-CCX AMD CPU, you can in BIOS enable for the system to show each CCX as separate NUMA node, and then it will even show the cross-CCX communication caused differences.
Right he's Intel
I was thinking ryzen for a sec
Ryzen begins to hate more dense ram
Past 32gb
From 6400 to 6000 AFAIK.
And past that expect ddr4 speeds
And going to 6400 on AM5 is shitshow anyways and not really worth it.
Even with NITRO training it is not just set and go.
And needs higher VSOC, which limits FCLK.
Set and go for all.
is there an mATX case that does 2x140mm front fans?
nvm found a decent one that i hate to admit 🤣
@mint sable this is dope as shit
#satisfactory-memes message
someone check my work to see if this is a reasonable build for a "non-gaming but still respectable for streaming/zoom/living room tv" pc
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vNNzRK
already got a 6600XT & SSD waiting for it
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5600X, Lian Li O11 Air Mini ATX Mid Tower
you don't need that much RAM for that
shave off $30 for the 16gb?
you could probably get away with 8 or 12 GB tbh if you're just using it for non intensive stuff
And why 5600X and not 5600?
seemed like a better pairing with the 6600XT if gaming does happen
Just tiny bit of frequency difference.
is gaming meant to be possible?
possible but unlikely
more because of the free gpu than anything else
well, "free"
it'll probably live its life as a "the UI on this tv sucks ass for streaming services, pc will make life a fuckton easier" pc
16 GB then, might want to use a 5600X3D but that's more expensive
5600X3D is microcenter only
ah
which is about 600km from me
i am tempted to grab a 5700X or 5800X for myself & transplant the 5600X
could also go for a 3000 series for cost
i didn't wanna go that old 🤣
if you have a 56X you want to transfer then an upgrade is probably your best option
can definitely trim the PSU and case too... doesn't have to be all fancy and a 450-500 W is probably fine
figured i could go a bit overboard with that for future upgrading
in case things change
true, but are you likely to upgrade this?
understandable
plus it'd be less strain on it long term
& the case includes 2x140mm & 1x120mm rear
which i'd have to hunt down for basically any other case
plus it looks pretty, which will 100% be required for sitting out in a living room
Doubt you even need the 5600 vs a 5500
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/p7TMgB
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5500, Phanteks Eclipse G360A ATX Mid Tower
yea i remember those not reviewing well
So for this use it doesn't matter.
But for any gaming it causes significant difference from the L3 cache difference.
Then get either UD750GM or MSI A750GL
yea, i don't wanna hamstring it too much. i want it to be in the "it can game, but you don't need to" territory, not "well, the gpu can game, but the cpu is half crap"
It's a 5600G in terms of performance and for $50 saved, well worth it in this usecase
But yeah, 5600 if you actually want to prioritize gaming
5500 with a 6600XT feels wrong 🤣
But for a streaming/zoom/living room PC, absolutely no point in going 5600
Or just 5600G without dGPU?
It's already owned and living room gaming does seem to be a usecase
hoooo
5600 should be few percents below the 5600X
closer to the 5600X than the 5600G tho
I love the debate on whether or not cache reliant titles should be included in reviewer suites for average performance across multiple titles
Much much closer, I'd say within 5%
IIRC 2-3% slower on average.
iirc golden sampl 5600 matches a 5600X
Depending on benchmark, yeah
5600X is a golden sample 5600
Ehhhh
Well, depends if you use PBO or not on the 5600.
As stock it is power limited, with PBO set to same limits as 5600X most of the difference disappears and you are left with just the frequency difference.
It's a bit better, 6 core CCD iirc vs the 3600X's 3+3
ah, no infinity fabric?
IF is there, but Zen 2 has 4 cores per CCX, with two CCX in CCD.
Zen 3 has 8 cores per CCX, with one CCX per CCD.
i feel safest dropping to a 5600, 5500 or 3rd gen feels like it's going a bit too stingey
And cross-CCX communication goes through the IOD.
So talk from core 0 to core 4 needs to go through the IF twice.
On 3000-series.
this is for a family member's bday, & i already feel kinda bad throwing in a mildly used gpu & SSD
Depends on your use case priorities ultimately
Save $50 because you don't need performance or spend them in case you do
GPU I don't see an issue with, SSD has a big question mark tho
was one of my spare drives, think it has like 80 hours on it
samsung "non-brain-farty" one
There's also a dope microcenter bundle with 12600K, iirc it's not available to you, right?
yea not burning the gas to drive to CA
Which one is the brain-farty one? 980 non-Pro?
Should be good, lemme check
Yeah, noticed that too rn
yea brain fart, 860
QVO is, Evo isn't
Ah, they had also 870 EVO, not just 870 QVO.
not amazing but better than spinning rust
Evo, pro, QVO?
et tu brute
Good, great, meh
i figured it's plenty safe & stable as a main drive on a low-midrange pc
What would you consider the capacity at which QLC becomes tolerable?
I tend to consider it at 4TB if the price against the TLC competition is low (like $150 P3 Plus), but 2TB is too much of a risk.
Evo and Pro yeah. QVO no
So completely fine.
& my gpu is best in model & wasn't heavily used, just long enough to know it wasn't enough for my new monitor
6600XT red devil
Looping back to the CPU question: if you want to put a heavy focus on gaming, 12600KF at $180 is also a great option
the intel board prices are just fucking nuts
Great card, don't be ashamed to hand it over
$150 Z690 PG Velocita
$125 Z690 PG Riptide for DDR4
also 65W cpu to like 175W 🤣
Shouldn't be that big of a jump with proper budget allocation, more like $100 - or less if you get a lower-ish end PSU like the A650BN
Intel idle draw beats AMD by a longshot tho
5W vs 20W+ iirc
Also, higher performance
12400F performs like a 5600 in gaming.
12600KF comes closer to 7600
Well, the APUs can do low idle too.
It is the IOD and IF being active at all times on the multi-die CPUs that raise the minimum idle significantly.
Yes
k
Not quite as dead as AM4 (as in there hasn't been a successor yet), but yes
Limit for AM4: 5800X3D/5950X
Limit for LGA1700: 14900K
ah
another pain in the ass
i want the board to have onboard wifi
could always add in a wifi card later if it dies, but i'd prefer not to have to start out like that
1 less cable to have to snake halfway around a house
Ironically, the best value wifi board for lga1700 ddr4 is an ITX one
i saw that
if the case is gonna be able to handle a full fat ATX, i figured i might as well go with that
For AM4, I'd pick either the board you had or a B550 UD AC
No point unless for aesthetics
Could also do smth like Air 100 ARGB if you go mATX
also an ITX board ain't gonna have room for a wifi card or any other expansions if needed
It has a 2230 E-key slot for a wifi card
But yeah, no other pcie expansion
plus i have big fat man hands & working with a tiny board scares me
just trying to snake the front panel i/o can be interesting
i was thinking stock or a assassin 120SE
it'll fit in the O11 mini
with 15mm to spare
Peerless? Assassin X?
Stock is fine for AM4 but loud and absolutely insufficient for lga1700
can see my dilemma
Not a fan of that case personally, mainly due to price.
Also feels kinda generic
yea but 3 stock fans included
Btw, I absolutely love Burst Assassin
Can get that on a $60 Pop Air too
Also, fans are cheap
Not as in the O11 Air Mini has cheap fans but as in adding fans yourself isn't expensive
yea but i'd go for expensive fans 🤣
plus i have no idea if they want RGB unicorn rainbow vomit or not
Give them TL-S12.
Nice if they want RGB, sleek and black if they don't. $15 for a threepack
Or Montech Sky Two
yea pop air doesn't come with fans for $60
White one has three RGB fans
got a link cuz their site says $111
This has black fans
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QnD7YJ/fractal-design-pop-air-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-poa1a-02
Makes me wonder: is there even a fanless pop air?
that's one thing pcpartpicker really needs to add onto that side panel, the fan options on it
they list the cheapo options without fans
OH
ok, i was reading it wrong, RGB vs non-RGB fans
Yup
Yup
Could go for a fanless case and add TL-S12 to fit both the rainbow puke and the blackout/whiteout
Or go for Montech Sky Two - which is also fishtank and comes with four ring-lit fans
would probably throw the rear 120mm fan to the front for a full wall of air going thru the system
Iirc you can't mount three 120 fans at the front
well that's no fun
Yeah, dual 140 maximum because of the 5.25"
Doubt you need it anyway
EA sports WRC crashing because of leap day: https://twitter.com/EAHelp/status/1763192739322085598
Guidance for PlayStation players:
1⃣ On your console, go to Settings > System > Date and Time > Set Date and Time > Set Manually.
2⃣ Change the date to March 1, 2024.
3⃣ Once this change has been done, the game should function normally.
The fix is easy. But interesting case haha.
a decent amount of new zealand's gas pumps felt like not working because of it too
Oh no!
ah shit. they might want a legit windows OS 🤣
An overtime/vacation day planning tool at a friend's workplace broke down because it calculated the already taken, still remaining and potentially expiring vacation days from 2023-02-29 until 2025-02-29
There are so many bugs/quirks relating to time/dates.
kk, looks like i have a really good start into build #4 for me 🤣 thanks all
What's your current list?
got 2 going, amd vs intel
Send both
weird
there's not the normal links to them now
is that visible?
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5600, Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower
5600 system would be even cheaper if i could find one without a cooler since i have a spare
it is for me 👍
Overkill board, UD AC or the Asus prime you had are fine
do those have built in wifi?
That AC in after the UD means AC wifi, Asus has "Something WIFI" if it has for most models.
What was the previous Asus Prime?
B550-Plus AC-HES
So yes. AC Wifi again.
Honestly considering if going DDR5 would be worth it on the LGA1700 build
kk
You save $10 on the mainboard and actually get higher quality and a better chipset
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5600, Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower
that knocked it down to $521
Idk about ram cost tho, absolutely not familiar with 8gb ddr5 dimms
Using x16 chips, so significantly slower than 16GB ones.
As they don't have enough banks.
Same as 1Rx8 vs. 2Rx8 on DDR4.
On 1Rx16 to 1Rx8 on DDR5.
would a single 16gb stick of ddr5 be the way to go then?
Even worse than two x16 sticks.
As that gives about 10% less, and one stick gives 50% less.
Added a list of cooler options and less expensive RAM, also included the SSD and GPU but marked them as purchased
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/khFZDZ
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5600, Radeon RX 6600 XT, Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower
i thought you said stock for the 5600 cooler was fine
It works but it's loud
lol true
Oh yeah, should've mentioned that
Idle and in non-demanding tasks it's absolutely fine
Why?
Just get a used laptop or smth and use the key you get from that.
might do that
unless they want win11
then i can yank a legit copy when i want to upgrade 🤣
Get Win 10 license, use it for win11
i forgot about that
kk, looks like 2 good systems to run them by & let them know the pros & cons
AMD is a lot cheaper, intel has a lot better future upgradability
right
i did a quick 7600X version & it's only $5 more than the 12600KF DDR5 build
oh brain fart, different ram
ok $13 different
so the AM4 system is waaaaaaaaay down at $412, the AM5 & intel DDR4 & 5 systems are in the $540 to $580 range
why is the most expensive option looking like it might be the best
@night girder why
?
Making this entire thing more and more convoluted
Advantage of AM5: Pro RS mainboards allow for a nice white build
oh yea gonna get some sleep & then do white versions of them
because you just slightly reinforced?/enforced? the AMD is shit and Intel is best bias 😉
There were two systems being talked about and I just stated that the "Intel one" with 12600KF performs better than the "AMD one" with 5600
But yeah, in isolation quite an inaccurate statement that I wouldn't have made otherwise
I mean, I was also about to say the same from my experience about AMD 😂 . But that would be unfair, so I didn't say it
IMO putting together a zen 3 system without an X3d chip in it is missing out. The virtue of your intel choice is you can get a more basic cpu now and a 14900k later. Whereas now zen 3 top of the line is in reach of your budget and there isn’t (likely?) anything better coming out for zen 3
you can get a 7600
and a better one later too ?
wdym
what are you comparing exactly
There's not much of a point of buying anything but a 5800x3d for am4 in a new build unless it's ultra budget
Google is just plain evil
Tldr
Tldr google is blocking RCS messaging on rooted phones using google messanger
As cool as rcs is, I'd much rather see an open implementation, but for that I think we'll all just have to use signal
RCS is technically open but it's more or less infeasible to implement it
No, 5600 with ddr4 makes sense for low budgets depending on the market.
At 5800x3d budget you can already get 7600 on a newer more upgradable platform. Ofc depends on the games, but on average they perform the same.
That's why I said ultra budget
For new build I recommend AM5
i was also doing the AM4 as a "as cheap as i would dare go" kind of thing. this will be replacing an 8 year old laptop & a tv's garbage streaming UI, so basically anything will be a substantial upgrade from that
i can see bumping up to the 5700X3D to $520, so i'll run those by & see what the opinion ends up being
also when i was checking the 7600X is somehow $50 cheaper than the 7600
It is but everyone uses googles servers
Ideally your phone provider should have their own infrastructure but at least in the US most use google
And I believe when apple implements it they’ll use their own servers but don’t quote me on that
I haven't touched x570 myself, I believe it's fairly good
You should be able to push 4200 with a high end board
The board says on the QVL for Cezanne it can do 5600
And for Vermeer 4400
I think its T topology
Ahh
So its better for 4 sticks of ram
But is ass for single channel ram
I don't think there are any kits that can hit that much
They are some. But they are single dimm kits
Tho I wonder how 4X8 does
And in t topology so much less chance of issue with 4 dimms
@twin dew I have the router and one question does the software need to be running on my pc 24/7 for it to work?
@twin dew its been like this for 5 min now is that normal?
I selected all of them as dynamic ip idk if thats right tho
@sage pier can you reiterate you situation from the beginning? Baldur is likely asleep right now
Im setting up my router and its rebooting its been 20 min and still like that
The router is the tp link er605 v2.6
still either way anythign above 4800mhz gives the same micro stuters as running sli
Do you think its safe to unplug the router and try again?
Did you fall asleep or did i not provide enouh info
Sorry 4 buggin you
I think thats a cpu issue
Intel CPUs should be able to push that ram extra far.
well the 13700k sure as hell cant
3d printers are horrible. I waste all my time just watching it
they are they also cant live longer than like 3 months
How many sticks of ram
2 right
13700k should easily push like 6800-7000 I'd think
2 16gb 6400mhz sticks
No, you're fine
I'm just really busy all of a sudden and probably won't be able to get back
Ok how do i find what subnet mask to use
My isp uses static ip
Should i just try 255.255.255.0 and see if that works?
Ok
that's a subnet mask
Yeah how do i know what one to use
🤣
Are you available now?
Im still stuck
Or @twin dew are you awake?
Sorry, not really
And I won't be until about 4 hours from now
yea both
I talked with my isp and tp link and getting a technician here in a couple days
You don't need to run the management software at all, using the web management is the right thing for simple deployments.
The extra software is for larger multidevice ones.
You need to reset the router to defaults with the reset button.
You probably set it into a mode that expects separate inside LAN DHCP server.
So don't use the controller software, that is meant for complex deployments in business environments.
Use the web management interface like with any other consumer router.
And reset the router to factory defaults with the reset button first.
Ok i tried almost everything within the web management even calling my isp to verify the mac number or something even calling tp link
No i switched back to the old router
I hate eero routers you get random spikes in latency and download speed tanks
I meant that your only problem was that the TP-Link didn't get IP from your ISP?
And not that you couldn't access the device anymore.
To get the router distributing wifi i have to plug in the ethernet thats from the modem into the first wan port on the tp link router right?
No.
WAN is what connects to ISP direction.
And any LAN internal device plugs into one of the four LAN ports.
Ah, sorry. from Modem.
Yes, modem output to WAN.
Tp link got me to directly plug ethernet from modem to my old laptop to see what ip it had and tp link said it was invalid but it works on the eero router so idk
The WiFi part mixed me up...
In what mode is the modem in?
Bridge or Router?
And does the modem have Wifi AP active?
Whats wifi ip exactly?
I didn't ask about any "Wifi IP".
WiFi AP, access point.
Pretty sure bridge since you cant use the modem alone you have to use a router along with it
I'm trying to understand what your network topology is.
So you have modem in Bridge mode (just straight pass-through)?
And the device behind it gets IP directly from ISP DHCP server?
Sounds right
It seems like it just converts the fiber optic cable to ethernet
And that device is currently EERO router+Wifi AP?
And you wanted to switch to use ER605 instead for the router, and have separate AP only Wifi AP behind it?
Then lets a router do the rest
So not Modem, Fiber ONT.
We dont use wifi i dont need a wifi ap
Yes its the eero 6 plus
So for me, I just plugged the WAN port to right incoming port, and set that to Dynamic IP...
Can you check what the EERO currently sees as it's WAN IP?
Would that be in the app?
No idea, usually should be in any management way.
Ok 1 second
Says 192.168.4.1
Well when i plugged it directly to the ont it got 162.178... or something like that
I got that fron the eero pod app
Should have seen from the .1 end...
But I still haven't completely woken up.
Should i plug my laptop into the ont again to see the ip?
Would that help
Yes.
Ok what command do i use again
ipconfig at least shows it.
And can also check the GUI side, but exact place depends on OS.
Win10 and Win11 have it in different place.
Ok thx 1 second
If the WAN IP on the computer directly connected to the modem/ONT is that, then it is acting as a NAT router already.
Weird cause i tried plugging in a network switch to it before and that didnt work and everytime iv3 plugged the laptop in directly it gives no internet
Might be that you didn't get new IP.
And that was what the IP was when behind the EERO.
So most likely there is MAC filter at ISP end then?
And you would need to check what the MAC for the EERO WAN port is, and copy that to the TP-Link WAN port.
They verified the mac on the tplink so it would work
But it never did
The upper one?
It was on the back of the router that i gave them
That is wrong one.
The one on the sticker is the LAN side MAC
to be fair its a everything is on fire issue
The WAN side for me is one number up.
So there isnt a mac for wan on the physical router?
You can switch them around in the config, or provide the right one to the ISP.
Not as a sticker.
At least on the one I have.
The sticker has the LAN side MAC.
But like I said, you can change them around in the web management.
But that explains the problem then.
ISP is using MAC filtering and you gave the wrong MAC to them for the TP-Link.
So switch to the TP-Link, get to that page, and copy the MAC addresses around so that the one on the sticker is on the top WAN box.
And save.
Theyre closed since its 10 pm and they already switched the mac back to the eero
LAN MAC to WAN MAC, and WAN MAC to LAN MAC.
I meant that with that switch, you don't need to contact the ISP.
And you can test if it works.
Ah, sorry. One MAC at a time max.
So yeah, when they are open again, provide the right WAN MAC to them.
Or just set the WAN MAC on the TP-Link to the one for the EERO?
To test it during the weekend.
Just enter that into the WAN box, and save.
And use that "Restore Factory MAC" button next week.
When you have provided that to the ISP.
Can i make them both have the same wan mac?
Yes.
As long as you never connect both to anything at same time.
What would happen?
Just by putting the EERO WAN MAC into that TP-Link WAN MAC box and saving.
Just that neither would work properly.
As in the local segment the traffic is sent by MAC address, below the IP layer.
And if there are multiple devices with same MAC, things break down.
And for same reason if you have the TP-Link with EERO WAN MAC, and connect the EERO behind the TP-Link, it might cause issues.
As the TP-Link would see the same MAC on its WAN port, and on device connected to the LAN port.
So nothing catastrophic, just very glitchy or non-working network for the devices with same MAC.
Im trying it now and the router doesnt need to be connected to the modem yo access the control page right?
No, doesn't need WAN connection.
Ok
could sw issue or kernel level anticheat cause a computer to poweroff
Power-off is usually PSU protection being triggered.
In theory also MB VRM protections.
whaat would be a good way to test if this is the case
If it is instant power cutoff.
I cant find where mac is on eero router
only helldivers2 causing my pc to power off, cinebench 2024 doesnt
Didn't you provide it to the ISP?
Or they had it in somewhere on their own?
They had it somewhere
The technician installed it
To find that, tap on the icon of the individual eero in the app, and then go to the Details screen – you'll see two MACs for the two Ethernet ports, labelled as Left and Right. The Left and Right refer to the ports when looking at them from the back of the unit. Using the same MAC as the port you're using should allow you to configure passthrough without any issue.
Could it be called something else?
using the radeon tuning feature with it set to undervolt, only pulling 240W at max with RM850 corsair PSU
aint no way its ocp right
Because cinebench doesn't use the GPU.
oh 🤔
But if you have AMD GPU, you need to get latest drivers for Helldivers 2.
They released hotfix driver first, and now release driver for crash issue with Helldivers 2 specifically.
But Furmark is/was the old standard for GPU power virus.
well before it wasnt crashing, at least i dont think. it was straight up power off
Don't remember what they said would happen.
But first thing would still be to get the 2024.2.1 driver and see if you still have issues.
yeah did that this morning, just tried now. i crashed instead of a poweroff this one time
And after that, next would be to limit the GPU max power as test.
With the tuning power slider.
Ok i see the mac for port 1 and port 2
is the built in stress test on adrenaline okay
Need to copy the one that is connected to the Fiber ONT.
No idea.
That is mostly for OC stability testing.
Then put that in the tplink wan mac?
Yes
So i erase the mac on wan thats there already?
Will i have to change lan mac?
No need to touch the LAN MAC.
Just to replace the WAN MAC with the one from EERO and saving.
Use the "-" between the parts, not ":" even if EERO had ":":s
Those are just for humans as separators.
Ok thx thats what i was gonna ask
The TP-Link might have accepted both, but easy to replace and not take a chance.
ok it updated
And then just try if it now gets IP for the WAN if you connect it to the ONT instead of the EERO.
should I unplug the eero now and plug the tp link?
Yes
ok one second
if you don't hear from me for a while something went wrong
Because only problem was the ISP MAC filter.
hmm.. so ive got furmark2 running for at least 10 mins now, temps and power consumption look the same as when im running any new game..
I can't believe that 10 min fix was the only reason I spent 7 hours on it
And when you add CPU power virus too?
And run both at same time?
Run for example that cinebench at same time.
now I'm getting 30 mbps faster download and 50 mbps faster upload
😬 hitting 85c on cpu
seems to cap out at ~290W GPU ~80W CPU
cinebench 24 multicore + furmark vulkan running simultaneously
😬 whys seeing 110C hotspot on my gpu always freak me out
What is the GPU temp at that time?
windows reports 85C
So you have problem with the GPU thermal paste.
If the GPU is 85C and GPU hotspot is 110C.
damn it came stock like this
But shouldn't affect this.
way too late to rma
but yeah, hd2 was the only game that ive encountered this issue
even playing satisfactory on ultra stresses my machine but it doesnt poweroff
What's up with these AMD builds powering off 😂
I need this clock in my room
It's showing 14:14 if I am correct
Not sure what the top dot is for though
am/pm?
If I am correct 😂 - Wants a clock, but not 100% sure if they can understand it
But I am correct it seems. I just lack self-confidence as always 
I'm the type of person who used a calculator in school to check if 3+4=7 "just to be sure"
measure twice cut once 😄
@twin dew sorry to bother you but If i return the eero router will that reset their mac address filter?
You preferrably have them change the allowed MAC to the TP-Links native WAN one next week, and reset it to use that.
would it be bad if I just kept it the way it is?
and not return the router?
Still better to change it to the native one.
Remember you have to cancel the ISP techs coming too.
could it cause latency to not have it on the native one or whats your reasoning to changing it back?
Just to not in future get problems from the cloned MAC.
If you ever forgot it was done and the TP-Link and the EERO end up being used at same time.
Would it be a problem still if i switched isp's?
And why is it so hard to get the ISP to change the MAC in their filter?
Its not I'm just scared I'll somehow mess it up again and quantam fiber should come into my area idk when though
oh yeah I haven't done firmware updates its still on 2.0.0
on the sticker it says er605 v2.6
That is HW version.
but on the network management it says v2.0
There has been 1.0, 1.6, 2.0 and 2.6 HW versions.
And the firmware needs to match the HW.
On that download page there was dropdown to select the HW version.
the sticker says 2.6 the management says 2.0
Does it say SW 2.0 or HW 2.0?
hw er605 2.0
sw says 2.0.0
what benefits would I get from doing a firmware update
Trust the sticker and packaging for the HW version.
But 2.0 and 2.6 should be using same firmware.
ok
The changelogs are there.
But first is to get stateful firewall, and even higher version supports IPv6 firewalls if you enable the IPv6 functionality.
- security fixes etc.
I use ipv6 dns rn with firmware 2.0.0 it switches it to ipv4?
There isn't IPv6 firewall functionality at that firmware.
There is IPv6 functionality, but no firewall.
ok no firewall at all?
And the IPv4 firewall is stateless, so no NAT punchthrough support etc.
So please, upgrade at least to that 2.2.3...
wow I'm on firmware 2.0.0 rn the lowest firmware I can upgrade to is 2.2.2
I'll do 2.2.3 though
will this have the internet go down?
Usually for the duration.
and it saves all the settings right?
According to the notes,yes.
oh yeah I see that

Cloning a drive?
nah printing a skeleton
Ah, I see. Better than the 9 months it usually takes.
true and mine will have a helmet and sword
based
any recommendations for a desktop microphone thats decent audio quality
Form factor and other features?
I'd recommend the mpm1000u
I got the router working so I installed the firmware update so I can install the newest firmware update and this one is saying rebooting
its taking way longer than the last update
it says rebooting is it okay if I refresh the page?
if you're awake but probably not @twin dew
desktop and like sub $100 that doesnt pick up background audio easily
mpm1000u with mic arm
Background noise pick up is entitely up to additional software with that mic
what software would you recommend? I used to use obs studio but thats kinda heavy on my cpu and ram for some reason
Idk, I don’t record
ok
There's this but idk how good it is
github.com/eiz/SynchronousAudioRouter
or if it even does the stuff you'd need
Not entirely. Get comfortable talking closer and louder to the mic, and turn the mic down.
stuff like at2035 are very good baseline
Super cardioid pickups patterns exist, but I haven't found them to make much difference.
Damn I have fifine
same
If it works, it's good
I use obs studio settings to make it sound okay
Thing is: you look at it wrong, it breaks
I have a onboard tuner tho help clean stuff up
I am amazed
Bad QC, which is why they should be avoided
As I've straight up deep throated my mic for memes
And its been fine
I must have gotten a good one
Well, it still picks the audio up. It just won’t be that noticable compared to your voice.
Which makes filters work better
I can't wait for my 6900XT
2.1x faster then the 6600 I'm running rn
Hopefully I will have enough money to ensure a PSU upgrade
Else I'll be running on the very edge of my PSUs capacity alot
Which is software…
Your original post implies that software is the only factor, which simply isn't true. Unless software is at the point of basically being magic, and maybe it is, I don't stream.
How many fps do you all get and with what settings?
I just meant that an MPM1000U has 0 features to block out any audio. It picks up everything it hears.
The amount of noise picked up varies with position.
Whether or not any noise is picked up depends on software
#satisfactory and that depends on the factory size
And the PC hardware
I was wondering where i sit with my hardware because i feel like i have a bottleneck in my system
but then again it wouldnt make sense with my config thats why
I'm using a Sennheiser 835 at a bar right now in an entirely analog setup. I leave it on and it picks up basically zero background noise, because it has a cardioid pickup pattern and I talk loud and leave it low on the mixer. The MPM1000U also has a cardioid pickup pattern when I glanced a spec page for it, so you should be able to accomplish the same.
If it's actually omnidirectional, then yeah, you'll hear the mouse clicks.
Would have to test ig
It'd be very surprising to see an omnidirectional mic listed in any article for desktop use cases, so that's probably not a concern.
Aww your pfp gets lost in the midnight theme
That's actually part of the fun, when some people don't even realize there is a PFP 😛
tried doing a firmware update on my router and this has been on the screen for two hours now any suggestions on what I should do? also if a firmware fails my warranty is voided
so I'm kinda stuck doing nothing
where do you find a mic arm
oh wait amazon recommends one :hmm
i love blowing into the little hole thingy that bypasses all the sound protection lol
its truly a work of art everytime
@twin dew sorry for pinging you so much but I'm curious what time zone you're in? You don't have to tell me if you're not comfortable with it. also the first firmware update was good to 2.2.3 but 2.2.4 didn't work well it still technically going its been going for 5 hours
it says rebooting
its been saying that for 5 hours
he is in whatever timezone most of finland uses
atleast i think
idk whatever it is its practically a north american night shift
yeah its always so late or kinda early when I talk to him
but its generally worth it because he is the goat🔥
I agree
I'm finally gonna have a unit of a pc by friday
Parts for CPU mobo cooler and ram are on teusday
And gpu comes friday
are you available?
How to use the Emergency Mode to recover the firmware for Omada Gateways:
www.tp-link.com/ar/support/faq/3062/
well it still says rebooting should I unplug it or try that link?
You can try unplug and just replug at first.
And if it doesn't start in 10 minutes, then do the recovery.
Which needs unplugging anyways.
so unplug it then plug it back in then if that doesn't work download 2.2.3 or 2.2.4 again?
Go just to the 2.2.3 for now?
ok
And if it needs the emergency recovery, then the settings will be lost.
So you need to put the MAC address mod again.
Also if you were US, get the firmware again from the regional site:
www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/er605/v2.6/#Firmware
Ok and how long should it be unplugged for
I already have 2.2.3 installed imma just use that again since it worked
Ok
And ok, the files are the same for ER605 on the various regions.
The "(UN)" is probably "Universal"
In the file name.
Now i cant even access the website
Which website?
The router one?
Yeah
Has it booted?
Is the Sys light flashing?
Ok it was off now its slowly blinking
And now try replugging the ethernet cable you are connecting to it.
To make the computer try to get IP again.
ok its working again
I don't think the sys was flashing when I tried
why is the dns server so long?
DNS server?
now it says 2.2.4
What do you mean that DNS server is long?