#off-topic-tech
1 messages · Page 49 of 1
Do you know that moment in a project when you're realize it's a hopeless case, so you just abandon it and start a new one?
Unrelatedly, I have two younger siblings.
Do you know that men snore because their body can't find another way to be annoying when asleep
is the number of slots stored in the bios?
as in if I've got a motherboard with traces connected pads for 2 more slots, soldering two more in wouldn't work without a modified bios
well apparently someone has tried, and failed
The comments on the hackaday post mention the resistors that would need to have been populated at minimum.
From someone with schematic for the MB.
my personal favorite was buying a 3200MHz kit of ddr4 & completely forgetting to check that it WASN'T running at 2133 for like a week
There ain't really no telling if they were populated or not. I haven't looked at my board much more than it had tinned pads for 2 dimm sockets
Can't tell from the picture. He did mention it posted the first time he tried, and then he put heat to it again and it didn't post anymore.
Resistors are cheap enough, if they spent the time to put traces and pads for another socket there's a good chance they put the resistors on
If the slots weren't there, why would the resistors needed for use of those slots in there either?
As in the PCB has the places for those, but they are most probably unpopulated too.
Because removal of installation of the resistors is small thing to do, and saves both component cost, and pick&place machine time.
Because they're dirt cheap, and not having them may allow for induced currents on the traces that could cause other issues
When the specific traces don't connect to anything at one end, and to CPU pins that are unused when the slot isn't in use at the other?
The cpu pins on my board would be connected, it's an i5 that does support 4 slots.
Having voltage present on something that shouldn't have any can do wonky things. I'm not an EE. So I could be wrong.
Yes, but what the traces state is isn't important when they aren't used.
And the CPU end will keep them in good enough control.
I mean these are a little more expensive than I thought
So the slot end termination resistors etc. don't need to be there.
That's mouser prices though. I'd expect them to pay half at most as an OEM
I've seen board without stuff that have all of the supporting components, and I've seen it where there's nothing
And then there is the pick&place machine time, optical inspection machine time, etc.
More frequent changing of component reels, and so on.
I don't think they'd be worried about that
Large scale manufacturing is absolutely worried about those.
Not compared to the amount of shit already on the board, 10 resistors isn't going to have a meaningful cost saving
They will over 2m units
k, dumb question time. when it comes to water cooling both a cpu & gpu, & you had to do something like 2 separate rads of unequal size, is TDP the deciding factor as to which component would get the bigger rad? (i assume that would almost always mean the gpu gets the big one)
That's entirely dependant on loop layout
You can cool both with a single 360mm or 240mm rad, or with two 240s.
Optimally, your loop would look something like pump/res > cpu > rad > gpu > rad
Sometimes they're there sometimes they're not. I can't know why
But that's not always possible
like i said, if you got stuck with some kind of weird-ass layout where one rad had to be bigger
Then yeah, whichever part had the higher tdp would benefit more from the rad with more dissipation capacity
Extra work to make the variants and verifying that they work (upfront cost), vs. little more expensive "cheap" variants.
i have no idea if it exists, but something like a case where you could put 140mm wide stuff on the front, but to make room for the mobo connections it was only a 120mm width up top or something
Upfront cost vs. per-unit cost optimizations in work.
There are plenty of cases that have room for a 360 in front but only a 240 on top
So company, expected run-sizes etc.
That's a perfectly valid reason to use two differently-sized rads
width, not height
really?
In my experience, yeah
that seems counterintuitive
Lots of cases are set up for three 120s in front and two 140s on top
Mid tower anyways
If you go full tower they're sometimes 140 all around
Or that the front can do 2x140 or 3x120.
Yeah, that too
As there isn't enough height in the case to fit 3x140.
90mm fan superiority
herg are you going to buy those new fancy metal fans
it's a funny day when minecraft is more taxing on my rig than GW2 🤣 (to be fair, I am running optifine + some shaders, but nothing insane).
minecraft brings any computer to its knees if you try hard enough 🤣
Yeah, it's making my PC crash 😂 (but the culprit is probably CPU dying)
Anyone in here good with software/wifi stuff?
Ive been having problems with ping lately but only on my newly build pc. I have gigabit internet and on everything else I almost never have ping issues. Ive tried changing it to tell the router its a game console instead of a desktop pc and that didnt work (Xfinity). I tried changing the quality of service to prioritize my pc but my router doesnt have that option. I got no clue on what else I could try
Wifi connecter and not Ethernet
wait, you said xfinity ... well theres the problem.
everything behind their router in your house is prolly all 1ms to each other ... the issue is going from their equipment to their equipment further out (which is nothing you can fix)
BUT ...
you say it 'only' happens on the one machine, all your other machines you have no issues (im assuming you are trying ping tests to the same external destination)
Yeah every other machine has fine ping including other consoles (ps5 phones tablets)
did you happen to try a different ethernet cable? (not meant to be funny)
i dont use an ethernet cable (yet hopefully) Its just a wifi connecter that came with the motherboard I believe
hm, plug in the included antenna(s)?
wifi for me has always been very pingy... so i try to do wired at every possible point
i even ran a 100fot cable downstairs to my tv room switch to plug the tv/blueray/htpc in direct 😄
I did for my last pc but this one is in a different spot so ethernet needs to be planned lmao
Yep
could just be that board/controller ....
tried test-moving around (further, closer) just to test if its not something about where you have it ?
I have. Im leaning on it being the connector/antenna
tbh i never put my motherboards included wifi to the test .... i used it to setup windows11 and once tht was installed, i plugged the fucker into the switch and forgot i had wifi built in 😄
the alphacool ones? he already has
I mean fair enough tbh Im getting an ethernet cord soon anywyas
I didnt know he bought them already
also..... are you talking like just sporadic pings from 10-30 jumpy... or did you mean like you are seeing 300ms+ (when your other devices are 20) ?
Like consistent spikes (every 10-15 seconds) of 250ms+
hmm weird
every other device runs around 10-30 consistent
do you have the duplex mode set to autonegotiate ? maybe force it to full duplax and see if it behaves better?
(is the duplex setting even present on wifi controllers?)
I assume that means "I ordered them and I'm waiting for them to ship"
Thats an even better question
find your adaptor in Device Manager, then get properties on it, then click over the Advanced, and then find the duplex choice in the big list ... if it has it
my wifi adaptor does not have the choice... but my wired adaptor does
so that prolly wont help you...
The system has found unauthorized changes on the firmware, operating system, or uefi drivers o.O
I guess I've done something this bios really does not like
Either UEFI security violation you didn't account for or changed a monitored value
did you give up networking then ?
That's my guess
The BIOS reset itself.. I know because Vt-d and virtualization was disabled. Not sure how or why that happened. I'm probably about to have a very buggy server.
so now it won't boot the OS.. which is fine.. I was going to reinstall it anyway before bringing it online.. setting up PCI passthrough again is going to suck
we love burning a laptop cpu
was this directed at me?
i completely forgor
Canada is trying to ban the flipper zero
Because some representative has seen too many internet videos (real or not real) about how it can be used to steal cars...
When the device designers say that it shouldn't be able to do it for any car newer than from 90s or earlier, without separate extra hardware at minimum.
And when the stuff that the actual professional car thiefs use is completely separate.
now this is a fan
well, I'm able to install drivers for my gpu on a windows guest, but I can't get the gpu to output a display to a monitor..
Yes I got 3
oh windows..
I wonder what I broke now. signing out/switching accounts makes it bluescreen without fail
Whops, I installed Win11 22H2 and not the intended 23H2 January Update...
Loaded wrong ISO on the emulator.
Fortunately that is just test OS install.
Just means more updating.
Ah don't worry. We all know that windows is very good at updating
Didn't even give option to update to 23H2.
Had to start from the right install image.
IGP or something else isn't happy with some setting, and is causing the Windows to freeze up.
The system is active in the background as event logging is still running, but the monitor picture will freeze and the system doesn't shut down when pressing the power button like it should (short press to tell Windows to start shutting down normally).
I still need to fix my disk situation. I had popOS originally set up to dualboot with windows, so I had to set up some weird partitions and all. But... I don't use windows anymore...
Happened in Win10 when running TM5 but not otherwise (but monitor picture blibbed to black for one frame at times when RAM was under heavy load).
But in Win11 it was worse, so time to diagnose more.
So run TM5 until if freezes, change one RAM timing to auto, do it again, until it doesn't freeze anymore.
And then start reapplying the others.
But seems it might just be the RAM refresh rate settings?
tREFI and tRFCs.
Or tRAS and tRC that were way below what the common "theoretical minimum" was.
Because that still caused differences in memory tests.
man I'm learning so much stuff 😄
for example: if you enable a firewall on your server, make sure port 22 is still open after that
tRAS 30 didn't work...
But the minimum that should ever be used in my system is 50 (which worked)...
40 didn't work, 46 at least worked at Windows Desktop when the system froze in that point in previous ones...
Lets go to 42 and start raising it from that.
44 seems to work.
yes
Seems that tRAS 44 with tRC 44 is stable in quick test.
When they "should" be 50-90 as minimum from the other timings.
No, black screen when started moving mouse after a while.
While TM5 was running.
Case fans immediately went down to minimum speed too.
Don't forget, if you can hear it loud and clear it means its working!
nginx is driving me nuts
when isnt it driving you nuts
No, tRC 50 isn't completely stable yet, got momentary black screen with it.
Haven't got one yet with 44-90.
Got one quickly on 44-60...
44-70 didn't work either.
So might be time to throw in the towel and go with the 50-90 that should be the actual reasonable use minimum anyways....
And seems the first contender for firewall & HIPS solution will be ESET Home Security Essential.
Spyshelter has just fucked themselves by releasing new version as public beta, and stopped selling the older version.
And changing the pricing to be stupid, with just 2 computer or 25 computer prices, when I need 3 lisences.
And if the UI doesn't work for me, need to test the full Comodo suite next.
atleast the background of the bsod isent your desktop .............
the time I spent trying to fix nginx when it's just a webserver running dockerized without a WEBSERVER
I don't really have the time to do it right now sorry
ESET is pretty neat
"Bad" results for antivirus detections on some tests, good in others.
But one of the few that seem to have the HIPS and firewall features I want (complete manual control).
Which are painted as bad thing in some of the reviews.
But need to check the UI for those HIPS and firewall popups.
What do you mean?
It bsods if I tell it to shutdown or sign out
you know its bad when the bsod stacks on top of windows instead of resulting from windows crashing
bro got bsod themes
alienware moment
So apparently I installed the wrong passthrough drivers.. they worked, but they were for win2k something and not win10.. I wonder if that's why the system BSOD'd
so, to that, format and reinstall (:
lol
ngl that looks like a better soldering job than i can do
I'm not sure why it had a RF (channel 3) on a composite plug.. kind of strange. I guess maybe they had some kind of automatic switch that would switch the tv from cable to the atari when you turned it on
I can't see what justifies buying the WD here.
is the Toshiba model SMR?
It's CMR.
"• 22TB capacity
• Conventional Magnetic Recording (CMR) for broad compatibility"
hmmm odd
Yeah. Consumer vs cloud drive, seems like the cloud drive would be vastly better for consumers too.
A 5-year warranty on the Toshiba too..
Yeah, I'd go with the Toshiba there for sure
ok speaking of large spinning rust, got a dumb question
sata power & data, what's the 3rd connector on them
They're jumpers, if you're talking about what I think you are
Typically only found on hdds
Can allow for settings like low-power spinup
Iirc the rps is mostly used to allow for USB compatibility
yea this one
Also some HDD:s have com-port access there for debug console access.
Rescued one drive with broken firmware via that.
Some drive in the past had firmware bug that bricked the drive when it had been on for long enough in total time.
But you could recover it to operating status with that access.
Also I bit the bullet and ordered Radeon RX6600 for 230e to replace my current RX580...
Hoping I have to use it for only half a year or so before I can gift it forward in family.
Next option would have been RX7600 for 300e.
And on ESET, at least the firewall dialog is pretty good.
The rules management is somewhat bad, with entry per rule, in creation order, not grouped by program.
And no program profile support.
Network profile support is good, and the way it can set the program info the rule will apply to is good.
Same with HIPS side.
So the parts of the UI to create rules are good.
The parts to manage rules after their creation are bad.
But I think I can live with ESET.
But need to do full trial config first.
HIPS side allows for wildcards in middle, so you can edit the rules for programs that version their install directory to match one rule.
And Firewall side supports Store Apps (which are the worst offenders of the previous) natively.
No, HIPS threw an error after saving the rules completely after that wildcard edit...
So currently wildcard can only be for the specific folder slot, so something\*\something,
Not something\something*something\something.
think you made a good call with going with the 6600, while the price increase matches the performance increase, it feels like the 7600 is right at the bottom of the next tier up, & at the point it'd be worth making a more significant jump. this was you can put that cash towards something else
6600 and 7600 would have had pretty much same price to performance with the TechPowerup simplified scaling number.
yea basically
but also for around that price you could hunt down a 6700XT
bump up to 12gb vram
Starting from 390e for new here in Finland.
Sorry, 6700XT not available at all, that was for 6750XT.
ouchie, but maybe even worth it in the long run. idk why, but it really does seem like phat vram is the future
Yeah, but hoping this will be just 6-12 month stopgap.-
oh definitely
also what i've learned is that while being able to put settings to max on everything is fun, there's a lot of games from the past couple years where even keeping everything on low, but cranking draw distance still looks plenty good
or maybe that's just me being old & remembering garbage textures from the past
And that is still 68% uplift from the current GPU.
And I can replace Radeon 280 in relatives computer with the 580 (after possible fan swap).
wow a 280
And the 6600 is destined to go there if I can get the real upgrade.
definitely jumping a tier up on 2 systems, nicely done
6600 is basically an AMD 1080 that's 100W lower TDP
And the 6600 will be perfectly fine for Satisfactory at Full-HD.
And can run (almost?) all current games to playable degree.
oh 100%
at least at a bit above minimum
so long as you're not trying to do 240Hz
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This engineering interview & discussion follows-up our previous industry interviews with people like Tom Petersen of Intel and Bill Alverson of AMD, but now featuring Guillermo Siman of NVIDIA, who joins to discuss the engineering aspects of latency. We've recently bee...
Rn my 7600x holds stable at 5.1GHz 1.32v all core. Wanna see if i can lower the voltage a bit to improve temps
Cant figure out how to lock cores to 5.1GHz
so after two weeks of back n forth with the canned responses from ubisoft on the 'corrupted savedgame' .... they spit the same canned response they started the ticket out with, asking for which game I'm writing in about, what platform, etc. 🤦 I responded back "Ok, this confirms it.... ubisoft support has been turned over to ChatGPT." and closed the ticket
And for the important question:
Why is Windows 11 Photos app opening every fucking file in C:\Windows\Inf for writing when it starts?
At least for .inf and .pnf files.
I'm very glad I replaced my mobo. Testing the 5900x open air with a thermal camera showed the vrms were getting hotter then the cpu die at full load (tested with a Deepcool AK620) CPU was hitting 82c vrms were measured at 91c
Sure that's within area of operation for the mosfets still quite hot
Thermal cam readings are complete crap if it isn't calibrated for the exact material being looked into.
And 91C for VRM is perfectly fine.
I tryed to have it calibrated for the aluminum heatsink that's on top of the vrms.
And any shiny surface is always a problem.
So adding black tape or like would help on that.
The heatsink is painted flat black from factory
So pretty close to optimum surface, still needs that emissivity setting for the point being measured.
I'll check calibration and try again later today
FLIRs site tells: put black electrical tape on the part, wait for it to equalize and use 0.95 XD
For emissivity.
Anyways, the weird steps I'm going to be taking next week.
First get the ESET set up and trained for basic Win11 23H2 system on the new computer with throwaway OS.
Make saved config to use as base on later three setups.
Install Win11 with CPU list bypass on my laptop.
Set it up.
Move browser settings and profiles etc. to that from old main computer.
Check ALL the stuff I can find and document what settings changes I want to do in Group Policy, various other Windows settings etc. for the later two Win11 installs.
Backup things from old systems SSD RAID-1 to HDD RAID-1 and set permissions for the files on the HDD partitions to not be restrictive.
Remove the new system from secondary system case.
Remove the old system from primary system case.
Build the old system in secondary system case with another separate SATA SSD as storage.
Install Win11 with CPU and TPM bypasses (TPM 1.2 available like is needed, just no 2.0 like is required).
Set it up.
Move browser settings and profiles etc. to that from the laptop.
Build the new system in the primary case.
Put one of the old SSDs into the new system, leave the other one untouched for now as safety measure and backup.
Install Win11 on the new system with the single SSD set up to be ready to be converted into RAID-1 again (in addition to the new NVMe drives and new HDDs already in RAID-1s).
Set it up.
Move browser settings and profiles etc. to that from the old systems new OS.
Connect one of the old HDDs to the new system temporarily and copy all the stuff over.
Once everything is checked to be right and in place, connect the second SATA SSD and convert the pair to RAID-1.
Too much work coming...
Wish I had an 8K tv to watch this video 😭 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_toA8lErAHg
Ultra realistic motorbike ride through Night City in Cyberpunk 2077 2.1 with close to realism, photorealistic ray tracing modded graphics. Fidelity made possible with DLSS 3.5, ReSTIR GI Path Tracing and the new Nova LUT. Running on RTX 4090.
Graphics Mods in use are:
Nova LUT by theCyanideX
Cyberpunk 2077 HD Reworked Project by HalkHogan
Cust...
Looks impressive even on 1080p
i live in that exact desert landscape they're trying to emulate so it completely falls apart there for me 🤣
Ahh
but yea the stills are scary
Aside from some incorrect shadow casting, it looked pretty convincing.
the camera shaking feels off
I am still waiting for my holodeck.
lol
Oh, you reminded me I could borrow my dad's tablet. I think it has 1400p
We all know what holodecks would be used for if they were actually invented lol
that's pretty good - it's about on the level of film CG
IS there any way to play this on mac?
Playonmac
wont work on mine it gets stuck on installing something
Check their forums with Steam issues.
No I mean for anything, not just steam
Sounds like you missed a step through setup. They will know more about their software. Likely something to check in the logs.
Mac moment
Is this modded or just max settings?
I assume it's just cranked to the max with RT + reshade
reshade is the worst product known to man, but it definitly helps with making light look really really real
What is wrong with reshade?
Also, reshade itself doesnt do anything. Reshade shaders are what actually do things (glorified post processing)
reshade is basically the same as early minecraft shaders. Look really nice, but fucks your PC up
completly thrown off by the "camera movements" that are absolutly unreal
Yeah, the camera is stuttering when slowly moving
while it's still running on this:
reshade : )
I figured out a d12 is the best spinning die
also we finally finished our one-shot dnd session
only took four sessions
five*
is it safe to store some desktops in a shed?
it doesnt get colder than -30c in the winter, and i live in a very dry place
no
why
wanna have spiders in your PC? Wanna get some mice to nibble on your PSU cables?
also "very dry place" is super objective. For a week? Sure. A month? Got it. A year? nah season will fuck that shit up
That doesn't look healthy
Unrelated note - Anyone know of good places to find broken laptops/boards? Ebay is a nightmare to find stuff to fix and flip on because there's 900 gorillion different models
I wonder if its worth it to go to a pawn shop
If you're after one particular board, pawn shops are going to be useless.
No particular board in mind
Really just anything I can buy super cheap bc it doesn't power on etc and flip it
my only experience with that kind of repair was dell doing shit soldering on my first laptop, having a class action lawsuit about it, settling it without admitting fault, then sending out $10 rebates on $700 board replacements
That might cover the shipping cost, generous!
DO NOT WANT!
I just want to use the new computer without doing any of the work necessary to get it to usable state 🥹
why i'm not overly interested in anything too creative when it comes to computers 🤣
i love the idea of doing things like expanded networking for the house, but i know it'd probably be way too much of a pain to get going & maintain
And ESET SSL MITM disabled...
Yes, it would in theory allow for early detection of bad stuff, but it also has in past allowed bad stuff to happen when the MITM code had bugs.
Same for the Browser protection stuff, as the extension was doing insane stuff in HIPS side and I would have had to allow the browser to do things I didn't want Browser to do.
There should be a setting to disable co-pilot.
There is
Taskbar settings
Its not a background program
Also you van uninstall it
you can uninstall it but its work that i shouldent have to do
guess its gonna end up in the same hellhole as cortana uninstalled and sent to hell
It's literally just a browser window
It's not a program you have to uninstall. Just disable it
So many programs (including lot of Windows base) opening files in Read-Write mode when they only need to read...
When MMC (Microsoft Management Console) opens some specific MSC (like Device Manager etc.) it opens the .msc file in write mode for some stupid reason...
If the HIPS denies that write side, it doesn't care, but it tries to open the stuff in write mode..
gotta love the laptop lifestyle 4gb of ram 2gb of it is used for the Igpu 2gb left 1gb of that windows steals.... your left whit 1gb for apps XD
Why is the IGP using 2GB?
Bad config in BIOS?
Yay, i get to fix a computer that is "slow and the wifi doesn't work'
I had an issue with intel wlan cards and windows 11.. They worked before updating but not after. I hope this isn't the same thing or there's a working driver for them now
fairly certain it's a Win11 upgrade issue
there's a reason why it's recommended to do a clean install
@twin dew random question could I cluster two separate machines into one to have their cpu power somewhat combined.
Say like two separate 5600s clustered together to get a total of 12 cores and 32gb ram
I know it would be incredibly latent transferring data over say ethernet.
You should check into a Beowulf cluster.
"Parallel Cluster (Beowulf)
The Parallel Cluster is a bit different than the others. Instead of clusters acting as one which is located far apart, the Parallel Cluster makes multiple systems act more like one large system of processing resources. Without getting into programming, the application must be written in such a way as to allow multiprocessing."
I also did a quick search I can do it but I need to bridge the systems by Pcie to try to get a decent rate of speed. So probably getting two Gen4 boards and seeing if I can link them both on a X16 slot
You could use fiber channel
That would work as well. But I do think a riser cable is a bit easyer to work with. As I have two Gen 4 boards and 64GB/s is more then enough bandwith.
Ah yes, free calculator app
809 partners sheesh
I just downloaded another app 
This is nice to see. Obligated to tell users how many partners access there information.
Apple privacy is quite nice
Agree. I've seen it somewhere else. I remember because I was also a bit shocked of the amount of partners. Not near 809 though.
I think it was in a cookie pop-up somewhere, needless to say; I clicked "reject all" 😂
What's funny is that it's a fucking calculator app out of all things
The integrated calculator doesn't have history so it's a straight no from me
My guess. They partnered up with a company, who has 809 partners. Like, you contact a company and say you want to sell data. And they give you 809 other "partners" willing to buy data.
Probably
A middle between company. No freaking way a calculator app has 809 partners. Unless it's made by a big company.
My hunch, I think they made the calculator app to get data from users tbh 😄
My favorite thing about Android is I can deny permissions at the OS level, like the ability to access the internet.
not because they wanted to make a good free calculalator 😛
because it uses up to 2gb and often does
it just usses normal ram because it dosent have any dedicated ram like some IGPU's in laptops
the nice thing about it tho is you can run dual channel ram at whatever speed you can get your hands on
That moment when a financial institution touting their security uses sms 2fa by default
They should be humble.
What do you mean by that?
personally, I wouldn't boast about security. Because you are never that secure.
Oh yeah, they'd be ruined after a single major problem
Not to mention the fact that my bank still supports sms and email only for 2fa
No ability to use my yubikey or authenticator app
Ouch, that's a fair few
"Over 33 million people - just under half of the French population - were affected by the data leak, which included details like "the marital status, date of birth and social security number, the name of the health insurer and the cover provided by the policy" of the individuals impacted, according to the French data protection authority (CNIL)."
That's almost as bad as the MoveIT leaks in the US
I hope you can't abuse social security number in France....
sure there are ways
I heard if someone steals your SSN in USA, you are in big trouble
Yeah, it's not good
Funnily enough, they promised that they wouldn't use ssn for any sort of personal identification when they introduced it...
if they, is the goverment. What did you expect?
Here, we don't have social security number but rather personal identification number and its only used for identification. If someone stole your personal identification number, they can't do anything with it
But if they stole your ID number, you are in big trouble
In the US, someone with your social security number can go as far as taking out fraudulent loans or filing taxes under your name
Here, criminals will try to obtain a scan of your ID or ID number since they could do a lot of bad things with it
So what, I have to tell them I can't fix their OS without wiping all their shit? :/
most stupid thing is, goverments are pushign for more personal information in databases.
Back up their shit
You can use the fresh start feature in windows to completely reinstall windows but keep the personal files
But you should back everything up anyways
Which also isn't a proper fresh install
One hand they say they are concerned about citizens privacy, other hand they are hoarding. They can hoard, aslong it's not a big tech-company.
but then they get hacked and we get stupid shit.
Just make a backup, wipe the shit, reinstall from a clean slate
There is an option to fully reinstall windows. Download from scratch.
But yeah, reinstall is still the better way to go
That's less than ideal. but if that's what I have to do.. I can explain that to my customer that's the best course of action. They'll more than likely be getting me to install an ssd for the boot drive, as I'm pretty sure the machine has a HDD anyway.
Just use media creation tool, nothing baked into the OS
At this point, I think more than half of world population is going to get their data exposed in some way by 2030 (if it already isn't the case)....
Exposed data can't be sold
I had my full name, financial status, ssn, and quite a bit of other stuff leaked.
I got like $800 from the class action against capitol one for their data leak.
some provincial database in Belgium got hacked a while back.
if they get hacked or leak infomation. sue them.
311.000 social security numbers out there in the wild. Thanks goverment.
My whole family personal data (name and surname, address and phone number) got leaked somehow
I suspect it's because of major ISP data breach that happened few years ago
not the best solution.. but sadly about the only thing you can do is sue and maybe these companies will take notice.
you're pretty much sol then :/
Yup, even if you win vs goverment. That money is coming from other citizens. Feels crap.
and they just continue doing nothing about security.
Only thing you can do is vote 🤷♂️
And it you're really upset about it, get involved personally
Worst case is when multiple data leaks happen and you can exactly prove who is responsible
Yeah, you could play the game and vote. But game is pretty much rigged too 😂
Yeah... it always feels that way. Democracy is a true compromise, nobody is happy 🤣
Best thing to do I believe right now, is be fluid with your information. Change passwords often. Use different street names and villages for websites you don't trust etc.
but it's so frustrating, because the goverment is the one body that can literally force you to give correct information.
I wish my bank had disposable virtual cards which can only be used once like on Revolut
and all you can do, is pray that the information is secured.
Why does that sound like a major security risk? 😄 (remember prepaid phonecards? They are forbidden in a lot of countries now because of terrorism).
It's actually a pretty handy feature
I mean, you get a virtual card number and you can only use it once
If you don't trust the site, you can create a card with the exact balance you need and just use it once
If someone steals that card number, they can't use it anymore
Oh like that. But doesn't it also mean people with bad intentions can use it too?
More than likely
But it's not anonymous like a prepaid phone plan would be
Since it's still tied to your bank account
Gotcha. Yeah, I was thinking of that haha 😄
Like make an account online. Put some money on it. And then get prepaid card online.
Just add more numbers 
That's what we started to do with the license plates.
We added 1 - XXX XXX now. I believe we are at 2 - XXX XXX now.
But yeah, those cards that you can charge with money is leggit.
Gmail just marked an email I got from Google as a spam 🤣
I mean, you lose a bit of convenience for security, which always seems to be the case with security. You used to open your front door of the house without a key. And then they added locks, so you need to do one extra step to get into your house.
check if it's really from google? 
Seems legit
Not sure about dpd but I recently noticed a lot of legit mails are marked as spam
Even Google is trying to tell Google to stop spamming lol
Imagine that gmail spam filter is also an AI 😂
one AI blocking another one rofl
I am more of the "don't come to me, I'll come to you if I need any of your services".
So don't bother me is the short of it 😄
I blocked emails from Apple. They keep spamming me my icloud is full.
"Did you know you can upgrade your iCloud?"
... Yes... I know. Now 🖕 off.
Just got this on my tablet from Google, is this like a software alternative to yubikey or what?
yubi supports FIDO
The FIDO ("Fast IDentity Online") Alliance is an open industry association launched in February 2013 whose stated mission is to develop and promote authentication standards that "help reduce the world’s over-reliance on passwords". FIDO addresses the lack of interoperability among devices that use strong authentication and reduces the problems ...
www.yubico.com/blog/what-is-fido2/ if you are interested to know more 😄
I am asking because I was considering buying yubikey but not sure if it's worth it since I guess websites would need to support it
more and more websites are supporting it, it's slow.
@jagged snow just said he had a yubikey.
So he should know more where they work 😄
but yeah, it's like 2FA, it rolls out really slow.
because websites need to implement it and there is nothing Yubi can do about it.
What was the question in particular?
👆
I have been a little disappointed with what individual services support it. However, google and microsoft both support using yubikey for sso, which is my primary use. It lets me use my google account for all of my random accounts and then I can use the yubikey to authenticate all of them.
www.yubico.com/works-with-yubikey/catalog/?sort=popular (here is a catalog, forgot they had it)
In that respect, it's pretty good. The only service that I can think of off the top of my head that supports it directly is github, where I use it as a single factor for sign on
Oh right, I also use it for my password manager
I use duo authenticator for all of my 2fa needs that don't support sso or yubikey
But yeah, the big ones seems to be Google, AWS, Apple, 1password / lastpass..., X (Twitter), ...
They say YouTube too. But that's a bit misleading since youtube is Google. And Google was already mentioned 
a bit suprised to see epic games, but not steam.
Ah, steam has their own authenticator with their app.
Steam is very intent of forcing you into using their mobile app for auth
Yes, exactly.
I hate it, the ux is terrible and I really dislike needing to have another app for just one service
I never use the app. Except for 2FA.
I never have either
I mean, it's stupid. Rather have a yubico.
I held off on installing the app for a long time because I disliked it so much
Oh, that's frustrating
As do I
I'm not a fan of entrusting that much to google or ms
I'd much prefer if there was an open-source sso implementation that I could self-host
My quest to de-google my life is going to be somewhat stymied by sso
Guess I could get a yubikey for password managers
In case I somehow forget master password lol
Yubikey is a candidate for single-factor authentication
I have a few services configured so that I can use either just the yubikey or a password and 2fa app combo
So if yubikey goes down, do you lose acess to those services?
Is it like Googles pw manger where it gives you a super strong password?
Not really
It uses some very fancy algorithms that are as of yet completely unbeatable to verify that it's actually that specific hardware key
So yubis servers have nothing to do with you logging in?
Nope
It also supports the ability to set a pin that's stored on the key for an extra layer of security
As I said, it's entirely hardware based. You can use it to log into offline applications like a local password manager just fine
I do recommend that you purchase two of them, and use one as a backup. Whenever you configure a service, set it up with both of them so that if one ever gets lost or damaged, you still have access to everything
My workaround to that approch with pw+2fa as alternative sign in is passable but technically not as secure
If you break into my house and get my notebook and I'm not home to provide free lead, well I've got more problems than compromised passwords
think there is a higher chance of getting hacked than a burglary
I haven't really setup anything with 2fa, and that's probably on my list
aand you got yubi with fingerprint
I'd absolutely reccomend it
Oh forsure.. although my neighborhood is more hood than neighborly.
Ok, maybe different for you then 😂
IMO you may as well just use yubi with integrated pin for the price difference
I've got my bank on 2fa and Google has my phone number. That's about it
Is it really worth paying almost 5x the price for the exact same functionality?
integrated pin? you mean password?
The chance that someone steals your yubikey and brute-forces your 5 character pin is probably lower than the chance of them mugging you and forcing you to use your fingerprint to authenticate
Fingerprint seems decently secure? Or it's at least easy to use
a 4 pin sounds easy to hack 😂
No. Yubikeys also support the ability to require a pin when you authenticate
So if someone finds the key, they can just start brute forcing it? 😒
It's stored on the key and is a good protection against someone stealing your physical key
In theory, but almost any service you'd be logging into with a yubikey would have brute force protection
that's why I have a dog 😉 See. I am prepared haha 😄
And that's when fingerprint comes into play 🙂
I have my key configured with a pin for services where I use it as the only factor, and without a pin when it's a 2nd factor
As I said, the chances that somebody brute-forces that pin are probably lower than the chance that they force you to put your thumb on the yubikey
4 digit pin sends like enough to keep your phone safe. Most threats seem like they're targeted against the service rather than the user
I mean, fingerprint is good for now. Untill someome clever finds a way to hack it.
I'm not sure who was hacked for "the fappening" leak
Yubikey is 6-digit pin
Glass you have touched, tape, superglue
So 10^6 combinations(1 mil)
yeah, I mean digitally. Every device that uses fingerprint, creates an actual weakness and a way to capture fingerprint data 😂
and more and more devices use fingerprint. Just something that popped into my mind.
I'm actually not a huge fan of fingerprint readers because I tend to damage mine
honestly, I kinda wish yubico became maintstream
Oh wait
That's minimum, it supports up to 63 alphanumeric characters
So that's a theoretical maximum of 36^63
that's why I was thinking 4 is weak. Would have surprised me if Yubico went with 4 pin.
Any of you know acceptable remote desktop programs that are compatible with a phone? I mean there are a few, but maybe someone knows one that's better than the rest.
I'm a big fan of parsec
iirc anydesk also has a mobile client
Microsoft remote desktop?
RD client
Chrome remote for a quick home-use, but Parsec is definitely better.
This is what I use. It's decent. I haven't tried parsec
Microsoft RDP is somewhat insecure.
I think rdp only works if you're in the same network
Or that's how mine is setup.. if I'm not home I have to be connected to my VPN
Do I get the game
RDP can work in certain situations if it is setup correctly through VPN. Assuming the VPN is correctly setup
Damn I get so mad at any software listing intel/ryzen 3/5/7 as minimum/recommended without mentioning models/generations
If you need a remote desktop through wan Google remote desktop is easiest
But if you've got a VPN setup on your home network, rd client works fine
That frustrates me
I saw someone list it as "a dedicated gpu"
Just out of spite I tried it with a gtx 260
I did not in fact work
1300x best ryzen
Intel Pentium 3 500 MHz, 128 MB SDRAM, Voodoo 3-3000.
I might be able to top that
IIRC I have a few pentiums from the gen before that
That was my rig in 99 I think
I have an athlon64 lying around
I worked my tail off for it.
Mine are netburst
So they would've been more like '02
It relased in '99 and the first chips with hyperthreading came out less than two years later
I made it work for a while. Ran Windows 2000 Pro on it until XP came out and I built another one.
I have some old macs with pre intel cpus
I had an old Mac. Wasn't it powerpc?
Similar to arm processors we use now in everything, and soon they'll probably be in desktops too
That song...
critical role wants a word
Downloaded moonlight, needs nvidia gpu, but it works well.
RDP is awesome lol
Rdp "just works"
Intel's new naming scheme is worse than what they had before, but I think it's still better than amd's new system
I dislike the fact that a 135H is slower than a 125U
And a 125H is almost twice as fast as a 125U
We love confusing the customer so they buy the worse item
XTX and XT is another head scratcher for this generation. But that's still not as bad as Nvidia's unlaunching, then showing they learned nothing by releasing the 3060 8 GB.
XTXTiSuper
Intel's so hurting for cash that they're making an intentionally even more confusing naming scheme to force people to go to their site to decode it in order to drive ad traffic
Have you not seen the new system?
I have a very specific question nobodyu has been able to answer
What's the question?
Let's say you have the standard for 315 ball TFBGA LPDDR5
Lets say both Micron and Hynix make it
Assuming all the voltage values are the same between both brands, would I reasonably be able to expect chips from Micron to work on a board designed for Hynix
Or would the pinout be different because the only standard part is the LPDDR5 technology foundation
Probably
As long as all the chips are the same
The same as in same voltage and amount of balls?
Considering these are links to datasheets
I assume you want me to compare pinouts?
Was going to reccomend, but it doesn't appear that either manufacturer specifies
I know micron does but you have to dig deep and they only give access to people in the industry or academics
(apparently repair is a valid credential bc they let me in lol)
And my understanding is that there is very little in the way of requirements for pinout on the ic
So I'm going to revise my earlier statement and go with probably not
I know a few guys that are more knowledgeable than me, I'll ask them real quick
thanks
What about hynix?
A version yes
Yeah, I'm not having any luck with hynix at a glance and don't really have time to dig more
The IGP should only need about 256MB or less of RAM for Windows desktop usage.
And the RAM used by IGP in dynamic mode isn't really shown as "lost".
If the OS is showing that it only has 2GB to use, and IGP is marked as having 2GB dedicated, then it is BIOS setting problem.
That's a BIOS issue? I thought you could allocate it in windows?
They are completely interchangeable, IF the BIOS isn't setting latencies that only one can do.
Both will support JEDEC standard ones, but BIOS can set tighter.
Thank you
With caviat that I might be wrong, but AFAIK LPDDR is standardized to same level as normal DDR is, which is complete interchangeability of chips with same form factor, only limited to the speed grade etc.
And the differences only come into play when you go into OC territory (which almost all consumer DIMMs are in)
Iphone battery in cold temperatures is a joke lmao
Maybe not the battery itself, but the sensor definitely
Watched it go down from 22 real time, but it’s actually much higher than 22 or 1 for that matter
Li-Ion current giving capacity goes down after 0 C.
And the voltage droops.
Detection of the "battery is empty" is based on voltage.
Most off the way for the battery gauge is just current tracking.
But the low end is based on voltage.
Same for very highest end.
Just that with Li-Ion and derivatives, for most of the middle the voltage is static.
Except for those temperature effects to it.
But I only see it happening to Iphones. I guess other phones have the sensor closer to heat sources like the cpu.
It is about the battery temperature, not voltage sensor temperature.
Then ig the other phones run hotter internally, idk.
It’s not even below freezing for my phone
Or have temperature compensation in mix.
Measuring the battery temperature for safety purposes and using that measurement for the voltage interpretation?
Maybe
Then it is weird... Because above freezing, it shouldn't really matter AFAIK.
Like sure, outside temp is a little below freezing, but I can already see the battery start fucking with me at like 10C or smth
Can’t say the temp for sure, cuz the phone is nearly never at outside temp. If it’s in my pocket my thigh is heating it and if it’s in my hand the phone is working so it’s generating heat itself.
Looking at the 1% is quite triggering considering it’s actually at 50%+
How do you know it is actually 50+%?
Because anything between (10-20) - (80-90) % is just guess by the device trying to calculate based on what it expects the total battery capacity to be, and by trying to track the power usage.
To an extent, the voltage curve isn't perfectly flat there
The middle part is so flat that the uncertainties are larger than the change.
So it cannot be used.
Try to use that middle for anything?
When the current draw etc. will cause larger swings from resistances than the actual battery voltage change.
And you never go anywhere near that 0% true SOC, as hitting it will kill the battery, and possibly cause a fire.
First time you hit it.
Same at the high end, charging to true 100% charge causes many times more degradation to the battery than little less.
So for electric cars for example, the car might only charge up to 90% true, and use 20% true as "0%".
Phones and laptops do it closer to the true, but still not exact to it.
Ok, there was difference in the curve even above 0C, just that the changes are much smaller.
And note that this is at specific discharge rate, that affects things too.
LiFePo seems to have more usable voltage drop when not at very high discharge rate.
I had just charged it recently and wasn’t using it intensively
Fyi, I’m not inside and it’s still at 1%, I’ll try plugging it in
So the quick drop started already from 75% or so.
Well, it’s when I went outside to go on the bus
That drop between the green bars was larger than normal, even while the device is in use.
Yeah no shit, the sensing is busted
I have invented iPhone fast charging, 11% now
15% in 5min 🔥
Brother. Do you want a fire?
It charged normally, the sensor simply isn’t working as it should.
If you say you "edited it" you're just saying edit twice
Like I said, the shown 0% isn't anywhere near the true 0%.
It causes the battery to lose capacity faster when going under 20% or so regularly.
The dying is because a safety circuit trips.
Which is set significantly above the true 0% SOC
Oh no. ISP mobile link broken near our workshop and my SolidWorks cant keep connection to license server. Downsides of cloud based licensing 🤦
Have you seen the dude using blender as solidworks?
Ofc it doesn’t have all the features, but there’s potential if blender is willing to add more functions.
I think I saw it on tiktok, don’t have it installed
Hmm...
Win11 didn't even say anything about me installing it on computer with Intel i#-7200U CPU...
When it isn't officially supported.
Yeah sure why not. Sheet metal tools for calculating flats from bent shapes is something that would be missing. But if you only do 3D-printed parts theres no need
I mean that I didn't have to bypass the HW checks to install.
I would like to do fresh windows install on my laptop too. Maybe try Win11 as well
But I'm using official "Business editions" image, and that means that it doesn't force MS accounts either at stock.
And the laptop fulfills all but the CPU type requirement.
And the CPU check at install one might only care about amount and speed.
For VM compatibility.
i7-6820HQ on my HP laptop
Guess clean install would work. But upgrade from 10 says that CPU not supported
Might or might not.
The upgrade one is easy to bypass.
Just one entry into the Win10 registry,.
So ESET has offline installer, but you cannot do anything afterwards without network access to check lisence, cannot even start in trial mode without internet check...
Would have been nice to set up the HIPS and firewall before connecting the system to internet...
And if Antivirus can be used if you don't ever connect the system to Internet?
What is the point of that?
So even if it allowed 30 days trial without the internet check when it cannot?
And only checked when there is internet connection?
Yes, and Defender has ACL feature, but it is PAIN.
And Windows Firewall has so huge hole in that any installer can add "allow incoming to me" rules without prompt...
It is nice base when you set it to "ignore incoming rules" mode.
So it block EVERYTHING incoming, no matter what rules have set.
And there are some better UIs for it, that AFAIK can be set to automatically delete installer rules additions.
The version 17 is very new.
The previous ones used different activation scheme.
Think I'll buy 4 lisences instead of the now needed 3, so I have one extra for possible VM.
One costs 40e, then 5e extra for each additional one.
So 50 vs 55e for a year.
Year like I said.
Could have monthly but then price per month would be 10% of the yearly, and automatic billing would not be optional.
The new GPU also arrived at dropoff point.
setting up sso is so easy tho
Annoying our infosec guy with non work related questions is always fun and always something you should do
No real way to limit the access of svchost.exe unfortunately...
It is spraying everything (registry, application and file accesses) all over the place.
Firewall side of ESET knows how to split the svchost processes down to the subprocesses, but the HIPS side doesn't.
we spent two years at my old job trying to persuade people to split svchost down so we could identify which part of it was leaking 600MB RAM a day
I was wondering why the laptop was off...
It helps if you enter the BIOS boot password before it times out when restarting the computer...
I think the hardcutoff for most highpower devices with lithium cells like power tools is 2.5V
Soft cutoff is usually 3-2.8 v
now thats my kind of thing lol
Just stole 40 minutes of his time 
Hey, I got the parts. Anything you recommend checking before saturday when I’ll have a few hours to work on the whole robot?
Don’t have the Pi with me.
What motor controller did you actually get then?
Can you get pic of the PCB backside that includes the 3-pin and the 8-pin chip solder points and area between them.
Yes, I’ll be home in 15min
Thanks... Need to check couple of things first.
So by changing the motor controller you changed what would work...
Lmao
Moment, checking what the circuit is doing.
I’m going to check how well the pump works that I ordered
I did mention that when checking many of the motor controllers were using this type of circuit with 555-timer.
Where the thing is current controlled in a way.
And the one high power wasn't.
This one only has single diode, not two, but it is close.
So that means no pwm to dc control shit?
No, just that I need to decipher how the implementation works, and cannot just read about the "standard" implementation.
Once the stream ends, might check one of that guys modification videos to see what he does.
I'm gonna try to use it as it's meant to rn, see how hot it gets and such.
I have to find an adapter for the pump to get a garden hose connected to it.
the enshittification continues ... amazon removed high fidelity streaming unless you pay for the 'ad free' tack-on
So it is this basic one from Wikipedia:
With R10 + red-to-yellow potentiometer part as R1, and R11 + yellow-to-black potentiometer as the R11.
C4 on PCB is the C1 and D3 on PCB is the D1.
So hoping that this might work by removing C6, setting the pot to max and connecting the converter output to the C6 chip side pad.
But need to check what that reviewer that checked the other motor controller does with the mods he does for the other controllers so Pi can control them.
No, sorry, the black is connected to the middle and yellow to the bottom.
Ah, different colors on the wires compared to the amazon image.
Like the components are surface mount on the one you have and through hole on the pic.
So pot wiper is in the pin 7, like it should.
But that pin 5 overrides the reference voltage for the 555.
So that should work.
So that pot on max speed static voltage control on that should change the duty cycle.
As it then changes the reference levels for the pins 6 and 2.
While not changing the charge or discharge speeds of the C2, which determines the voltage that the 6 and 2 see.
By default the reference levels for the 6 and 2 are 2/3rd and 1/3rd the VCC.
But with pin 5 in use they become 2/2 and 1/2 of the pin 5 input.
But time to look into the past to find that youtube channel...
Yay
Ah, he had video of the exact model (just with the through hole?)
For control from Arduino.
Very odd to be living in a household where I can look for stuff instead of buying them, but if I only knew where to look…
(I’ve been living in the same place for my whole life)
Most of that stuff would be arduinos rather than pi's. The concept is identical though.
Ah, just using the 5V PWM output from arduino, so not usable in this case.
Bypassing the whole 555.
But as Pi:s PWM outputs are 3.3V, would need to check if that is enough.
And then it depends if the next component needs more than 3.3V for input.
But yes, probably works.
3.3 can usually talk to 5v. In this case it'll depend on the mosfet that's driving the motor
If 3.3 is enough to saturate the gate then you're good
I think the pi pwm libary was depreciated. Not sure on that
I remember people made FM transmitters using it lol
Close, for the FET the review guys unit used STP80NF70 fets, that have 2-4V gate threshold voltage, with 3v as typical.
Also could just use the RESET pin of the 555.
With Pi PWM output.
Managed to break a Xilinx SoM by debugging out custom pcb with jtag 🤣
So when the Pi PWM output is low, the chip is stopped, and when Pi PWM is high, the chip operates.
And set it to just always have the 555 output as high when it is operating.
This is very common with high-voltage output MOSFETs that they cannot be driven with 3.3V, and some cannot even be driven with just 5V.
Problem with the reset version is that the reset pad is connected to the VCC trace under the chip.
So either the pin needs to be raised, electrical tape or like be inserted between the pin and pad, and then wire soldered to the pin.
Or whole chip removed, trace cut, and then chip resoldered.
I found the correct diameter pipe from a box with pieces of bent rubber pipes in it, in the corner. There was a broken washer drum on top of it.
@sand saddle So how good are you at surface mount component soldering?
I could ask a guy ig?
So the better option would be to unsolder the chip, cut trace between te VCC one and the 4/RESET pin where I marked.
And then resolder the chip back.
Well for that stp80nf70 it says Vgs is 20V max with a threshold of 2-4V
And then connect the RESET pin with wire to the Pi PWM output, and some ground to pi ground.
Like I said, with 3V as typical.
with just 3.3V output it is pretty close and bad luck makes it not work.
When we can just use the 555 as 3.3V to 5V converter.
Is that the reset trace passing through j2 and c2 silkscreen?
From J2 to pin 8.
And should connect to that Pin 4 too, which needs to be separated from that 5V VCC trace.
Comes from 5V regulator on left, feeds the red pot wire through resistor, and the reset and VCC pins on the 555.
Easiest way is to cut the trace with an exacto there and scrap the enamel off if you need to solder a jumper, or solder the jumper straight to the pin on the chip.. both depend on how good you are with smd soldering
Problem is that the point where it needs to be cut is under the chip.
Use this to desolder it
So need to remove the 555, cut the trace going to the pin 4 pad, and then resolder the chip.
Or do just that left lift.
Which would be worse for longevity in theory.
Yay, it works
But I would personally do the chip removal, trace cutting, resoldering and then connect to that pin&pad with wire and solder to that C6 Gnd throughhole for ground.
As it is close and not masked on either side of the PCB.
Very good pressure for a 25€ pump, just needs to last until the end of this project
For documentation, before I close Paint.
(there are tiny markings there you can only see when looking at full pic)
So no use for that 3.3V pwm to 0-10DC converter?
Cuz I bought it
Not with that thing, as you cannot replace the pot with it.
It could in theory be used to feed that CONTROL pin instead.
So that 3.33V to something lower would change the PWM the 555 generates.
For which you would need to remove the C6 cap and solder wires to both of its pads.
But the reset pin trickery would be better.
Just didn't know enough about the circuits those things use when I told you to buy it.
Sorry.
Could have been used with that 60A(?) board.
Which did similar 555 reset trickery to drive it with PWM from the unmarked chip that also showed the duty cycle with that display.
As that chip seemed to be just using voltage input from the potentiometer.
But in this board the potentiometer is changing the current, not voltage.
Np, you’re very helpful and it’s amusing seeing you put so much effort into this, I understand it’s interesting for you.
Also could just use almost any fast enough 5V MOSFET that can work with 3V control to bypass the 555.
Or two if you don't want to deal with inverted output in software.
Where 100% PWM would be 0-speed and 0% PWM would be max speed.
But doing the reset mod would probably be easier.
But time for me to go get the new GPU from dropoff and refill refrigerator on same stop to store.
But doesn't that mean just on or off like a relay?
No?
Just that the PWM the power stage of that motor controller will be same as the Pi outputs.
When currently the potentiometer sets what PWM output the 555 outputs.
And the power stage then smooths the PWM.
Like with the board in base config.
Idea is that you are toggling the 555 between reset (output low) and operation (output high, as long as the next reset is sooner than the normal circuit function).
By passing the normal control input for the 555.
And using the 555 on the board as just 3.3V to 5.0V converter.
So not "original" PWM (Pi) -> DC (converter board)-> PWM (555)-> DC (power stage)
Just PWM (Pi) -> 3.3V to 5V conversion (555) -> DC (power stage)
Or the boards native: Pot controls and some of the other passives control the 555 to generate PWM signal, which drives the power stage.
Because ChatGPT etc. don't know math.
So it cannot calculate 2+2=4, it can just infer that in the data it was fed, "4" was the most common next symbol after to "2+2="
Or it might hallucinate some other completely weird answer.
Which the various bots did before, and that kind of normal programming prefilter was implemented.
Same for the next one.
All those "refuses to answer" things are separate code acting as filter before the input is passed to the "AI"
And just feeding manually written answers if the prompt seems to fit some manual algorithm trying to detect questions that the AI often hallucinates with.
Implemented old-style chatbot acting as filter to the "AI" part.
I should probably refrain from asking it about my future unless I want to get insulted lol
@sand saddle I'll try to calculate the approximate PWM frequency in the base config tomorrow, if you can tell what is the potentiometers resistance value.
10k?
It has B100K written on it
You don't need to bother too much right now, I'll try to compile what you've said and see how my group decides to move forward.
Set the Pi to output PWM signal at suitable frequency.
Connect the PWM output pin to that Reset pin of the 555.
That will drive the motor based on the Pi PWM output duty cycle.
Needs at least that single trace cutting under the 555 chip on the PCB and soldering those two wires.
I really don't understand why right click copy and paste doesn't work in docs
I like using it when my hand isn't on the keyboard
Too low PWM frequency on the Pi, it doesn't fully override the potentiometer.
Too high PWM frequency on the Pi and the power MOSFETs will first heat more, and at some point will stop working properly when going very high.
And with couple extra mods, the pot can be removed completely, but that means that the Threshold and Trigger pins need to be connected to VCC and Ground, one to each (didn't check which to which).
And that too low PWM on Pi doesn't affect anything after that, just makes the motor not run completely smoothly if going way too low.
Idea of PWM is that at suitable frequency, the almost square wave acts like specific voltage level if the load is suitable.
So you can do control to intermediate values/speeds/brightness by switching between on and off quick enough.
Just that it needs to be high enough frequency that it averages out.
And low enough frequency that what is being driven can handle it (the power MOSFETs in this case).
How easy is it to mess up doing the whole reset pin thing?
Should be pretty easy if the one doing it has any soldering experience.
As there is solder resist, so you can even heat all the 4 legs on one side at same time when removing and reattaching the chip, and it shouldn't bridge between the legs.
Or when it first does from too much solder, just reheat and remove some of that until the bridges disappear.
Just need to watch to not overheat the chip to failure.
Like with any component.
Doing math is too dangerous, you should avoid that.
And even getting replacement 555 should be trivial from any electronics component shop, which most cities have at least one.
With price in Finland being about 1e for the SMD version.
Time is dangerous: https://gist.github.com/timvisee/fcda9bbdff88d45cc9061606b4b923ca
"The system clock will always be set to the correct local time." It never does lol
I always have to set my cctv date and time because it won't sync automatically with the time server for some reason
Imagine if your friend was like this
🤣
Tried sonic toothbrush for the first time. Much better than standard Oral-b electric toothbrush
Had to reduce the power though. Splashed toothpaste all over the mirror lol
How it feels to offboard someone
My board only has 4 ram IC's (confirmed by the fact that the part number is for 32gbit or 4GB), but SIV reports that I have 8 running in Quad Channel
I don't think the 1260P (12500U according to SIV) supports quad channel, but anyways, assuming SIV is correct about everything, would that mean the IC's are dual-die and each one is running in its own channel?
I guess its not impossible but with only 315 balls per IC that seems a bit crazy to me (also I can't verify die count because Hynix makes it near impossible to get that info for some reason)
this probably sounds dumb but i finally got a fine cleaning brush with long enough bristles to get down to the base plate of my keyboard, & it's just nice to not have to use my air compressor for that
LPDDR4 and 5 have 32bit channels.
So the chip number is probably wrong, but each of the chips is probably own "channel".
For total of 128 bit memory bus like is standard.
Just that even for the techs with 32bit (sub)channels, in x86 PC space we still talk only about "legacy" 64bit channels.
So 128bit total is "two channels", when in reality with some of the current memory techs that is actually 4x32bit, not 2x64bit.
LPDDR has been there for long time, DDR5 took the normal DDR there too.
And the dies are probably dual-rank, which causes them to be detected as "two" dies.
As each rank is handled separately.
Causing them to be shown as 8 dies.
And software cannot AFAIK separate between 2x 1R and 1x 2R.
Too much reading all around, and brain acting as information sink in a way.
Also inferences and combining going on.
The want to understand.
@visual tree only 793 partners!
The stupid things I do...
I'm on English (Sweden) locale with just currency symbol switched to €.
Just to get those sweet, sweet ISO dates.
im probably gonna go insane by the end of the day i just got dragged into doing art out of my will for the next 8 hours 
After few days, I got to the point that the laptop is now connected to Internet and downloading updates etc.
wait quick question is there a way to diagnose if a headphone jack is dead of if its the device?
dont have another device to try it whit
its a laptop headphone jack so i wouldent be surprised if its dead
The solution would be to try another pair of headphones
i dont have another one...
If the device is passive, then you can just use multimeter on that plug.
im at school and even if i wasent i dont have a multimeter
not that i would know how to use one
💀
got my answer ports dead
I just got a custom keyboard, can take it apart fully without problems
No glue or stickers I have to remove
the jack itself is spotless so probably a internal short or something
And they keyboard looks damn cute
usb still works so i guess its not a big deal
is the rtx 2060 good? (debate)
gaming
yea like theres probably atleast 50 difrent amd alternatives your gonna get recomended but if you really want a 2060 its a ok card just dosent have a lot of vram
And for buying used GPU, lot depends on how much you trust the seller and what the price is.
There's a difference between max settings 4k star citizen and terraria
someone here actually knows star citizen? pog
😍
DIY wrist(hand)rest had to be included
They keyboard is a bit loud so I'll probably buy new switches, but I already accounted for that
dumbass use your brain would i be playing 4k on a 2060?
nothing really stopping you
like satisfactory games
the rtx2000 cards made 16K resolution happen and have been the only series of cards to do so
Anyways, if you think about buying the GPU, all depends on pricing
250$ good?
no??
That's horrible
i feel like under 200 would be tolerable maby
Unless you're talking about brand new and mean australian dollars
Im checking price right now on EVGA
Don't need them, though I got QMK VIA support so I could make any number of keypress combinations
You're from US?
i dont really like custom keyboards either unless its done very minimally and reassonably
yes
Also i don't know wtf i was talking about i bought the card for 200$
220$ because of shiping +tax i think
So it's already bought? When?
Okay
ddr4 not 5
I got the keyboard today, might reconfigure a few keys
is any of this stuff important or does it not matter if its crapping itself
I never use home, page up/down and end so I can make them the media keys if I really want to
or you could use side mouse buttons if you have them
true
But a black keyboard would've looked so boring
yeah and black keyboards fit only good with a black setup
i have almost all white
the 2060 is black
and mb
do you have g sync on your monitor?
Same thing as freesync so might as well ask if they got vsync
Gsync can actually be worse as it usually comes with an annoying fan
eh kinda
g sync is for nvidia card only
and g sync adjusts quality to increase performance
its only good for some games tho
some dont look right
its like dlss without ai
depends on the type of game
and also your eyes only register 60 hZ
All 2019+ gsync modules also support adaptive sync which works on all gpus
No, that is very bad misunderstanding.
its 10
Goes up to about 500hz for some people.
To top up at only 60hz is very low bar.
wth are your eyes?
true
I have no idea how high I could see the difference.
I was talking that the best that been tested were in that range.
And most are significantly above 60hz, but not at 500hz.
So 144-240Hz monitors make sense, going above that 240hz not so much.
Based on what?
Human eye and vision isn't discrete thing but continous.
no its your brain
There is minimum you can see as motion, and then max above which you don't notice short things anymore.
No, human vision is very messy continous process.
Not discrete frames.
Source?
Which is whole point why we can see video as being in motion when the frame rate is high enough.
nvidia dumbass
Link it
kk
And after certain very high point, the additional frames don't bring any more benefit, but that bar depends on person and top 1% or so can notice single "wrong" frame at 500hz.
IIRC how it was tested.
And the bottom 1% was IIRC in the 100-200Hz range.
its newer tech
://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/what-is-vsync/#:~:text=Essentially%2C%20G%2DSync%20and%20FreeSync,FreeSync%2C%20but%20there's%20minimal%20support.
i dont know if the "newer tech" is any better tho
Most monitors come with freesync nowadays
yeah
All sync technologies get the same job done
If you're interested in learning more: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQdo67SjIHk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biSY6WeCDus
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Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/hardwareunboxed
Join us on Floatplane: https://www.floatplane.com/channel/HardwareUnboxed
Buy relevant products from Amazon, Newegg and others below:
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OHHH g sync is up to 360 fps v sync doesn't work good above 60
That's bs
There's literally a 540hz monitor with a gsync module, and that module is important for ULMB2
Anyways, watch the videos I sent if you want good info
read this while i dohttps://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/g-sync-monitors/
when i say v sync i dont mean free sync btw
its just nvidia bragging like always
Vsync locks the FPS to monitor refresh rate.
Just that most monitors USED to be 60Hz, so could do 60, 30, 20, 15 etc. FPS with VSYNC on.
On 144Hz monitor it would be 144, 72, 48 etc. FPS.
With 240Hz: 240, 120, 80 etc.
1:1, 1:2, 1:3 and so on.
G-sync is just first common implementation of variable refresh rate.
And actual HW G-sync has almost died away, and most of the "G-Sync" monitors are just adaptive sync with g-sync branding.
When I say v sync I mean v sync, not any module, but the technology itself
g sync is an implementation of v sync
Ahh yes, I sure love reading marketing text
Without V-Sync the framebuffer (what frame is being actually drawn to monitor) is switched whenever there is newer frame available.
Leading to it being switched in mid-draw, causing visual issues.
With V-Sync the framebuffer is only switched between monitor refreshes.
Adaptive-sync (the base standard), Free-Sync (AMD branding) and G-sync compatible (Nvidia branding) work by having the monitor change the refresh interval dynamically based on when the monitor gets new data.
No, like the name says, Vertical Sync, framebuffer/frame switches are synced to the monitor.
But that makes it that it can only run in lockstep with the monitor, so max FPS is the refresh rate, and then any divisor from that, so 1:1, 1:2, 1:3 etc.