#๐จ 3D printing
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โ Engineering workshop
๐ Engineering workshop
โ Engineering workshop
trying to find an emoji that actually works lol
WAIT
๐ Engineering workshop
will post introduction soon
is this taffo's blog
shush will get around to it soon
had shit prepared then so much stuff came up
So this one @lapis lodge is the one i'm talking about
it's called a voron trident
prints stupidly quick and with higher strength materials like ABS/ASA
that looks crazy cool
this one is my second one, called a voron trident. it was more custom by me i'd say
it also prints higher strength materials and has an enclosure that clips into it, and has heating equipment to work with even stronger/more demanding materials like polycarbonate
for starting, you definitely do NOT need machines of this category, these are probably $800-1000 & $1500 each
cheaper machines do very well, like $200 ones, but they typically are suited towards printing PLA which is a weaker material but still prints well
PLA is probably the most common used materials and is very easy to print, and you do not need expensive hardware to print it with
$200 printers can print PLA just as good as these machines can
Yeah, i wasnt thinking of anything super expensive. Probably just like a small printer, and then as time goes on i work up the tier list
i personally started off with a $200 one and learned it.
these machines can do it too, but maybe a bit quicker at the same quality
but same end result
Cool
@late trench is this thread for all types of engineering shit
yeah i guess
if there is a significant disparity between topics we could split them up, but as for now we will just keep it in one place as to at least have some form of activity
thats neat
updated 29/4/2025
3d printing channel waoooo
Would astronautical engineering designs fall under this orrr
great
(laser cutting and woodworking)
so im aware this might not be popular but i wanted to see how it goes
ig ill spam this thread with my designs whenever i actually GET to making them (im going to kms)
so true
wish i got images from my e guitars electrics after soldering new parts, unfortunately didn't took any as i was working together with my father on it
searching for suitable parts and repairing it was actually quite easy
what soldering iron do you have?
an old one from my father, so yeah need to buy a new one for myself
was thinking for things like that you'd need a powerful iron or something
do you solder often? i couuuld recommend a few
not really, but since there are now 2 hobbies where soldering can be useful i might consider getting into
what are those hobbies? guitar and anything else?
yeah, its a bit annoying to do microsoldering
and for microsoldering you often need hot air stations and stuff, it's a pain to get into
microscopes too
like i could fix the broken microphone jack from my old laptop and sell it for a good price
i mean i will get a good price anyway due to the nvidia but yea
sounds good
but before repairing any valuable electronics, practice first on scrap things, i cannot stress this enough for others
you need practice because it can be very easy to burn off solder pads, and boards have different tolerances for heat
only thing stopping me is the emotional bondage, as it was my first device bought from my own money
if in any slight doubt of your own repair abilities of fixing something valuable, my advice is to 100% not risk it
yea
but yeah although researching and stuff will be helpful, the best way to learn it is to do it
and from scrap boards
it might seem easy to do because "just wait till metal gets molten and pull off" but there's many factors, like solder pad damage, overheating the board, burning flux, etc
this is one thing that i struggled with and ruined boards with
i know i probably sound a bit over the top but yeah you deffo dont want to be doing that with good boards
as for soldering irons, i recommend ones with active temperature control and regulation, ensures you get good temperatures and dont overheat things
i myself have a tilswall one, but it's getting a bit old and broken so i'm opting for a "pinecil", probably both cost me around $30 equivalent each
bruh my engineering teacher literally needed to teach the class how to use calipers wth
manual ones yes you need to learn them
really? I already knew how and thought it was mostly general knowledge
SOLDERING
I genuinely love soldering
I made a light once
A solar powered light
Yeah thats rlly nice
I burnt a motherboard once ๐
๐ญ
woo
opted for jst sm connector due to locking capability and i cannot be bothered to use molex right now
Some pics of probably my most annoying board repair yet, Xbox controller capacitor explosion
Ack
made an led mount for my pc
yo, are you able to put sneak peeks on computer builds here?
technology thread is best for that imo
ok
@late trench I've been soldering all day
I nearly have a circuit finished
Sadly I can't get a pic
I've been soldering and gluing and cutting and drilling ๐ญ
I wanna buy a soldering iron any suggestions?
(yes, I was doing a school project)
Me too, gotta repair a stick drifting Xbox for someone
dang
I put a new potentiometer in but it sucks
Me too, what soldering iron you got
I used the school one
^
I have a pinecil V2 and it's great
Funny thing is when I started soldering I destroyed a soldering iron
Cuz the school ones are corded
I melted the cord ๐
How much?
probs 30-40 dollars
Oh that's cheap
no it's not
still needs power source
mine is 65w over usbc
$15?
needs to support PD for higher wattage
I'll just order it
yeah you can only buy on their store
So you plug it in and solder away?
there are other options but that's what I like
Ah
yes
Afk I got dinner
when i put it down it goes to a sleep temperature
then when i pick it up it goes full temp again
Back
That's sick
It seems like a really high quality iron
Idk what I should make
I wouldn't go for any wireless one
Good consistent power input is a requirement
Alr
does anyone have any knowledge of how an arcus proteus xes board works
stepper motor driver?
yeah
gonna start a super secret engineering/design project
will drop hints and you guys have to guess
first, mechanical tracked eyes
Smh
๐
Gotta do tests between servos, servo actuators and stepper motors
I love my steppers but they're pretty heavy and require constant power even when holding
I do have stepper drivers capable of stealthchop modulation but it can't be heavy
Probs servo actuators or modified regular servos
(discarded as not low profile enough)
Started assembly of it
rough idea and measurements but will fine tune
you can actually 3d print linear rod bearings, metal on plastic is pretty smooth
part of the mechanical eye assembly, will probably convert from rods to rails to slim it down
also been trying to find some decent slim servo actuators and i really don't want to use steppers, although i have tons
just not suitable for this
I think I found super tiny linear rails, this project IS HAPPENING
gonna be belt driven so i can move the motor elsewhere and less chance of binding
mgn3 rails to the rescue, i dont think i have any left
some fucking GOOBER forgot to clean off flux (me) so it corroded a pad and fell off but i improvised
ignore it being wet that's just isopropyl

so for this it didn't take me long to realise that rods are bulky and heavy and this shit needs to be as slim as possible
will use tiny rails like mgn3 and maybe belts and it'll make it very flat
slimmer prototype
How accurate is a wood CNC machine? These machines are up to 0.5-1mm accurate which is extremely difficult to create by hand.
Ooh
gonna be good but i need to keep it slim while being actuated
so will probs do timing belt and servo/stepper oriented to the side
steppers, although i massively prefer them, are bulky and require constant power
Yeah
ah yes
Hm
im excited
yessir
printing something for the first time in a century
what printer is that
Voron trident 250mm
oh nice
I have a Voron switchwire but in parts right now
Yep
oh nice
I like my Voron because it levels its own bed and calibrates offsets
ah
like actual levelling not just compensation
the most recent 3d printer i got was a ultimaker 2 (the travel version)
this is my other one
nice
it uses corexz so no leadscrews, all belts. very quick up/down movements
yeah I'll be honest that's what mine are at this point
i don't have the time to fully fix them up
I've kinda lost interest
oh lol
it's supposed to look like this but hey
ik
yeah, i'm 3d printing a pencil case
pretty good
trying out a 0.8mm nozzle
had to slow it down a bit because i haven't tested maximum volumetric flow rate yet
ah
might redo this goober
like yeah it looks good but it's annoying to disassemble/swap things because of the wires ziptied together
wiring is better here, actually modular
it's alive
the grease dried up too much
it be printing for once
automatic offset calibrations
taps the points on the bed to level it and find the shape
taps the nozzle and probe against that switch to find distance between
perfect layers every time
i had to source all the parts for this printer from so many random Chinese vendors ๐ญ hell to make
pog
we like wood
In printing using tpu and i can't find the tube i need for the external spool 
g
hello
guh?
The ams can't handle tpu
Well normal tpu
They sell stiffer tpu for the ams
Its 38 dollars
I mean you can probs bypass ams if that's the only material you use
I know, it has a external spool holder, but i lost the tube that connects the spool to the extruder
earthquake generator
๐ 3D printing
Changed to 3d printing, other topics can have their own threads
Kinda dead otherwise
thank god now i have a place to be
my school has a v3 SE, thought i'd go for a higher end model
got a killer deal on the filament too
yeah this always included 3d printing but it wasn't that clear
I need to build a printer out of this
found smth that would dehydrate my filament
got some parts coming for my printer
bunch of noctuas, dragon heatbreak, mosfets, 350w 24v PSU, etc
ooh nice
i decided to pick up a nice kilo spool of elegoo silk pla today
crealtity gave me ALL WHITE with my bundle and i was not gonna take that
pics
this is the color i got
arriving overnight which is surprising
i'll take it out of the box tmrw tho
SMOL FAN
looks good
maybe ill print a 2-part thing
1 in the two-color filament
1 in the white pla
bed glue?
if im printing pla on textured pei then yes because it hates it
built a cost-effective filament dehydrator because im not buying a space pi
at max it should do 3-4 spools maybe
its pretty much a convection oven
think my model goes 70c fixed
hope thats not too much
70c for 3hrs i think
yea
yeah uh do NOT do that for pla
it softens at 60
๐คฃ
ruh roh
well its been used for a few years so its prolly lower
so its been cooked down to 60c
and the pla? well i checked, it seems like it has factory stuff (itll release tension i think it has when unspooling) so my method is ok
some stringing, had to lower z offset BUT it printed very very well
it passed my personal test and it is in full operation
Right now i have a Ender 3 Max Neo as my starter printer and i want to get a new 3d printer as a nicer one that is easier to use/more accurate/more filament support. can anyone give me some recommendations? my budget is 1,000ish USD. 1500 at most but thats pushing it. I want something that supports OctoPrint, I'm getting into EE stuff so actual general fabrication of parts of things i want to design is my main usecase. Maybe Pew Pews too but i doubt 3D2A is something i can talk about here.
One of the main EE things i want to get into is robotics.
someone sent me parts
I mean bambu is an option, perhaps prusa core one or xl
those are big brands with minimal configuration needed and stuff
for that price you want those good brand names
there are other printers like vorons which you generally can't buy as they are fully custom
but you need a lot of experience in electronics and 3d printing
i have two now for some reason
depends on experience and how customisable you want it to be
got my printer better working
so it wasn't calibrating z offset very well but it's doing it better now
means i can switch plates and stuff and not have to change any settings, it'll detect plate thickness
printing in ASA rather than abs because yes
need to rewire the lighting so that's why a wire is hanging out but it prints fine
I saw on YouTube that Bambu is locking a bunch of stuff down and making it so you can only use their software.
Iโll look at prusa
oh yeah that is a thing
chinese/cheaper printers can do just as well but usually they take significantly more knowledge and time to get printing well
I also just learned that each spool has a serial number
they could do something stupid with this, doubt they would
at that point someone would most likely just make a custom firmware I guess
yeah this was a concern when it was announced
but it's for filament auto detection
i think they'd have a pretty big lawsuit if they suddenly switched it
they are nfc tags apartenly, I can scan them with my phone
yes
pretty sure they are encyrpted though
currently making one of these again
a new hotend mount
because the one it has sucks
but printing it in ASA
needs 60c air though otherwise it warps
my other printer could heat the air past 70c but it'd would start deforming if too much
atleast they give you spare parts and maintenance manuals
yuh
https://cdn.eilioimacat.xyz/u/C7BPmB.png are they rfid?
are they both or something
https://cdn.eilioimacat.xyz/u/ereGo0.png well the chip uses that and nfc uses that so im assuming its nfc
the ams lite has the same chip
idk what that chip is but it's probably a multi use programmable one
https://cdn.eilioimacat.xyz/u/seFg7t.png theres laso this
this is if you need to get a new mainboard for the a1

https://cdn.eilioimacat.xyz/u/MimLTy.png im guessing maybe its so the sn for the printer can be programmed onto the mainboard idk
i will stick with "manual" printers and use klipper forever it seems
I honestly dont know how you buy a new mainboard, you may have to go through customer support if your broke
you can buy other parts though
also the printhead uses a usbc cable
hit 61c in chamber for first time lolol
๐จ 3D printing
building the next one
@ashen lake changing my thread name? admin abuse. reported banned removed blacklisted reported to apollo
it's alive
JET ENGINE
3d printing extra spool holders for my ultimaker 2 go
i was gonna say bitch that ain't no ultimaker
no the white printer is a ultimaker
I put a maxwell on mine lol(on the printhead)
hotend died (left) while i wait for parts to repair it i will use the dragon again (right)
https://cdn.eilioimacat.xyz/u/7u4zMr.png so this exists in bambu studio(and im assuming it exists in whats its based on)
whar
Maxwell
maxwell
spent most of today building this thing
gonna have to put the dragon hotend into it
printed in ASA
some guy made this setting vaporize layer lines
i suggest checking that out
eeeeh
not really
it does but it shouldn't be substituted as a replacement for tuning
ok the dragon is alive
phaetus dragon hf
need to calibrate it though
parts for my rapido will take a month to arrive from china probs
earthquake generator
more parts
i got a proper filament dryer
which
Ok so the guys sent me a beacon module, no more magnetic bed probe
creality filament dry box 2.0
didnt get a space pi bcs it was 10$ more expensive
its pretty good
simple to use and such
only worry that i have is that i think it doesnt exactly want to let existing moisture leave, but that requires further testing
otherwise its really good, feeds easily
decided to get 2 spare build plates
little fun fact
my school has an old, broken, non-functional stratasys printer
iirc it does multicolor which wouldve been so cool and dedicated chamber heating
Holy shit might have just solved 2 years of vfa issues
LMAO
The extrusions were cut wrong
gotta rebuild it now to alleviate the differences
got one of the plates and my monitoring camera
niceee
is it a wide angle one
bro those are decent
depends on model but stratasys is good
yea it had really cool stuff
this is the one we had
got a timelapse
wao
waiting for this shit to calibrate
decided to print a uhhh
new toolhead for my k1
reason: wanted some extra touch to my printer, stock is boring
and im p. sure it'll make it have the refraction on the front surface
new bed plate with some special adhesive
surface scanner which i bought off a friend but it has like half the stuff needed
need to piece together stuff
back to orange
woo
That be a 3d print
heyo
so you ask what software you'll need
you'll need a "slicer", this converts 3d objects into machine instructions
I recommend orca slicer
hm okay
and what can you use to make 3d objects?
just something simple like blender?
or is it a specific program
yeah, or use online print libraries like printables.com, thingiverse, etc
ohhh alright
i use fusion360 for mechanical parts and blender for artistic/abstract parts
so you can just download objects, and paste them into the โslicerโ ?
and then print
yes
but I'm not sure if ender has WiFi, so you'll probably need to move it to an SD card
it does have an SD slot
but honestly shoulda gone bambu in my opinion because it cuts out a lot of calibrations and requires minimal knowledge
but yeah it'll work
only question is
is there an sd slot in my laptop
lol
nvm there is
nice
alright well thats no problem then, i can easily find an sd card somewhere
or buy one
it might come with a usb adapter
let me check
not sure, doesn't say, just assume no i guess
yes but after hell of fixing this printer
it needs to be remade
already started remaking it
been out of commission for 2 years maybe and cost me $1500 equivalent idk
i have to solder the surface scanner together
ok no i think it comes with a basic sd card but as for the usb reader idk
hm okay
if you have a raspberry pi you can plug it into your printer and run "octoprint" which allows you to send files over wifi
hm okay
i dont have a raspberry pi, wanted to ask one for my birthday but
i asked a 3d printer instead
mainly for my arduino projects and other electrical things
but im also gonna use it to experiment with some things
like printing tools, etc
Pretty useful little things
One lives here
You can get a zero for like 15 dollars
And a 4 for i think like 35
Which is the one I have
This is usd
No 4 for 45
zero is 25 euros here
30 including shipping
Oh
imo don't get zero
at least zero 2
zero 2 handles high speed printing and multi MCU management very well
it's still going
i don't have any pla filament
only abs or asa i think
this trident has a pi 4b 2gb in it so im happy with that lol
How is the pi hooked up to it
its in its electronics bay
hooked up to an mcu and a utoc which converts to canbus
I just got a notication that just said "it's in e"
Oh ok
the utoc is the thin board and connects to the toolhead board using canbus
oh and it gets its 5v supply from the octopus board which is powered by the 24v psu
more printer parts for the printer it was printed on
my print failed and the wood filament looks like SHIT
keep in mind wood filament is abrasive
make sure u have a good nozzle for it lolol
might need abrasive resistant heatbreak but idk what printer that is
basically its this weird ass "tri-metal" structure that feeds the filament quite well
no internal teflon needed with it
made the beacon surface scanner thing
I looked at these images again to show my friend the effect and realised we have a scar in the same place ๐
unless it's just a mark
where lmao
Bottom of your thumb
thats prolly just light
Prolly a mark
I DID IT
rapido pt1000 edition repaired
a4t and beacon surface scanner installed
15k rpm ๐
WHAT
yeaaaah 14
BROO ๐ญ
few hundred shims, 20 pins, etc
it's a custom build, had to search through all the chinese vendors to get the parts i needed
bolts, frame, controllers, wire rolls, panels, etc
๐ญ
then had to make the wires and all
LMAO
tldr: it's a voron trident but heavily modified
idk i just put my own stuff on it
i want to change the design so its faster and more powerful
ah
one sec let me get image
idk I might get a printer in a few years but I'm not sure if I should do resin printing or plastic
FDM or SLA
Both are cool
๐ฅ
but you want to see the fun part?
the speed at which it prints
sure
Holy shit
idk what its actually reaching but was probs set over 200mms
back then it wasnt that popular but now some consumer ones can reach that high
JESUS
this whole rebuild is gonna make me go even faster btw
๐ญ
but yeaaaa its taking ages
waiting on china shipping
and my 14 pulleys ๐ญ
this is my other one but its in storage atm in pieces
๐ฅ
I actually made a shitty Roblox model of a 3D printer
I'll pull it up later
small improvement in resonance measurements
actually no that has to be outdated
yeah this is updated
hell
oohhhh, noice noice
petg?
yep
i like it because you can change translucency depending on settings
go clear, slow, slightly overextruded for more glassy like i think
i need to order a bunch of parts tonight agggh
does fan contribute to this
ill print a benchy with your suggestions
my school got a bambu x1c to replace our raise 3d pro 3 thing that broke and wont work
i stg bambu has got to be the best printer company ive fucking seen so far
let me get a video of this thing
their cloud software is actually suprisingly good and is like if you were accessing it locally its so fucking fast
the inital setup was amazing and it calibrates everything by itself since thats what our class needs, something thats set and forget and thats what this thing is
its worked absoutley beautifully and the only time its failed was because of operator error
it also has different speeds and putting it to ludicrious dosent even degrade quality from what ive seen
its printed literally every material weve thrown at it besides abs that failed but that was because the bed temp was only 90 instead of 110 and the abs we have is old as fuck (makerbot)
https://cdn.meemkade.com/u/ee70b48a-d6b1-4612-be76-5c5f013263ff.mp4 not only that it fucking examines the first layers with fucking lidar and tells you if the first layer is shit or not
https://cdn.meemkade.com/u/3600d67a-9f00-45b7-b8df-16f15abdde49.mp4 heres more of it printing fast
the bad video quality isnt bambu studio its my recorder (preferences)
we wanted to get the h2d but there were so many preorders or whatever that we couldnt but when we come back from school in 2 months or so were going to order one
its good we didnt get it right now anyways since it has a few flaws bambu needs to fix
this thing also exposes a ftps server for timelapse access so thats nice of bambu
our only issues with it is that the chamber dosent have enough lights but that can be fixed and also the fact it dosent have an ethernet port
the wifi in our school sucks but theres ethernet literally everywhere
even the raise3d had it
it is good
i'm doing some testing of other laser solutions which can hopefully be accessible on other 3d printers some day
we've been lasercutting some cuts as a final project which ill take a pic of later but we're using some really fucking old laser cutter to do so
it has this stepper motor and wheel attachment where it rotates a cup or glass and you can laser on designs
might get a tiny voron v0.2 for my desk
https://www.jeffgeerling.com/sites/default/files/positron-benchy-timelapse-resized.m4v I kinda wonder what the benifit of this even is
lasercutter
as you could probably hear from the background we're having issues with the cups
do these printers come with a higher frame rate camera than the other ones?
fan off
finished setting up my schools 3d printing and laser engraving area
printers are creality ender 3 v3 se's
yea bambu is really nice
it was too expensive for me tho so i got a creality
its also very set and forget if you get a k series, hi, or latest gen ender 3 v3
except some occasional maintenance, not as easy as bambu but if you got some practical knowledge its easy
these enders are actually replacing a old broken printer
a old stratasys
i got a ender 3 V2 in 2022 because i wasn't making good decisions and i regret it
literally the opposite of set and forget
ive spent more time and money on upgrades than it's printed anything
yes
this is on my home network not local
bambu has really good servers
usually other ones update really slowly or have degraded bandwidth to save on server costs but bambu doesn't really do that
shouldve waited a bit longer
the v3 lineup is pretty much there
i wouldnt consider the se set and forget tho because you gotta check on it
i hope 3d printers dont like do shit like this
Lol, only thing that my printer struggles with is tpu in the ams
It can't grab it correctly
The a1 has a lower frame rate camera, but it works good enough to see if your print failed, and it was a listed feature so its not a surprise
i also find the filament purging in real time amusing for some reason
god i love this thing so much
ive seen like little to no quality degradence besides slight dulling of whatever filament on speeds like ludicrous
which is also really fucking useful they put speed options for mid print since we have people that need to print stuff and i can make a print finish much faster before eg period 6 ends
the original print time was like 3:14 but ludicrous got it down to 2:37
LMFAO the amount of pulleys for this printer rework with new parts
8 of them get combined into 4 modified "dehubbed" pulleys then the other 4 go elsewhere
WHAT
Nice printer
basically my printer kept having artifacts and i wanted to put better designed parts into it
this new system will let me run very high belt tensions
called the monolith
finished motors
neat
i havent explored a printer thats fully like
"assemble me jarvis"
id imagine it being cool asf tho
Ah
It looks so good
ITS DONE?
no
waoo had to redo some parts
this rail is a goner
i can smell the grease through my screen
Im assuming that's the build plate, how much power does it use
And what voltage or does it vary
300w 240v ac
its a cast steel bed i think idk
Does it just give it power until its at temp or Does it use pwm or something fancy
uses pwm, has a solid state relay for this
I wonder what the bambu a1 uses, could either use a multimeter or it could be listed somewhere
its probably 24v
Is it controlled by the pi or something
I think it is
yeah these ones are thick metal and need a lot of damn heat lolol
it's probably 120w or something
i have an old ender 3 bed that is 130 i think
pic of underside
actually has 2 blower fans mounted to it
Could measure how much power it uses but without a kill-a-watt that can be sketchy with a multimeter, and I don't have a amp clamp
just search up
Input Voltage: 100-240 VAC, 50/60 Hz
Max Power: 1300W@220V๏ผ 350W@110V
Why is it using 1300 watts at 220v
And only 350 at 110v
Mines on 110 since well us
Well its 120v usally
@late trench isnt the voltage 230 over there or is it 220
Shouldn't the wattage be similar between voltages instead of 1300 on 220 and 350 on 110
yeah i dont know why its listed like that
its probably the bed drawing different amount of current due to voltage change, as in the beds are universal
it would probably be limited to 300w on 240v, but TECHNICALLY could reach 1300w
The x1 has 100-240 VAC, 50/60 H, 1000W@220V, 350W@110V
So i don't think its a typo
yes refer to message above
My internet sucks so that took a while to send lol
i did calculations, assuming it's a fixed resistance and not like PTC heaters, it would take quadruple the power
but there is no way it consumes that much and will be limited
What is the limit for devices
Here you can pull up to 1800 watts without tripping the breaker but I think devices can only use 1500 continuously
wym limit for devices
Like how much power can one device use
Also is this hooked up to the pi
no up to the mainboard
it's the octopus, supports up to 8 motors
pi takes 5v from octopus, provides signal back to octopus by usb
then it uses a canbus interface to connect to the toolhead board
Does the octopus take in gcode to control the motors or something
well it handles the motors yes not just gcode
it powers and drives them using stepper drivers
Ok so the pi tells the driver board what to do
I haven't played around with this stuff lol
this is how it communicates with stuff
yeah the pi runs firmware with the board and they almost act as one, not just pi sending gcodes
I run kalico which is a fork of klipper
the pi is the host and tightly integrates connected boards
Also the octopus supports up to 4 hotends ๐
Time for a printer that prints 2 parts of a print at the same time
Don't they make printers with 2 hotends?
Oh prusa makes them with up to 5
yes
going to start a day long print with wood infused pla
the test cubes were promising enough and the ugly layers dont matter since ill be sanding this down since its wood
im printing an extender for the ikea lack table
make sure you have a good nozzle for it
because wood is abrasive
needs hardened/abrasive-resistant nozzles
i noticed anything besides the default microswiss nozzle won't work on the hotend
not happy with this print quality but there's no reason to stop it now
im going to sand it down anyways
biggest issue ive had with everything is probably flow
god i just wish there was some plugin for klipper that replicates the bambu x1c's dynamic flow calibration
shits also randomly been warping for zero reason even on normal pla so i just put a brim on it since im not going to spend 4 hours looking for why it's warping
@late trench any insight on this
Lolll
so it's covered?
I usually heat it up a bit and scrape it off but I don't really know that hotend
further research, my hotend dieded
got it replaced and its working much better
apparently the old one had the issue i had
upgrade fixed it
one self-check later and its produced a really damn good benchy
first one failed because well i didnt account for leveling with a brand new hotend and nozzle
guh
do you manual level
before i used to have automatic nozzle height calculations but now i have a "beacon" which touches the nozzle against the bed
it also does a 10x10 mesh in a few seconds
problem is that it costs $80 for a damn bed scanner but i bought it cheaper from a friend but had to repair it
no
printer js gave an abnormal heating error
prolly adjusting, working just fine now
yeah its stable
guh
did it start smoking?
probably would have for a min since it's new
residue oils
I accidentally engraved a motor
first extrude yea
the wiring came loose since its glued on from factory
got my hot glue gun and fixed it
forgot to post timelapse
this print sucked
did not like it
the top parts broke off because the dimensional accuracy is fucking schrodinger so i cant print any parts that rely on dimensional accurarcy
really starting to think about getting an A1 or carbon
my only issue with bambu is the fact that you cant really modify the stuff on their printers too much but there isnt even alot to modify tbf
(and the fact they didnt add an ethernet port for some reason)
check out h2d if ur spending that much
so you got klipper working
it can be hell if you're new to it, as you know
i've gone on to kalico which is danger klipper
h2d is too much for me
very nice printer but i don't know if i need that much
1.6k is already cutting it close
i did a while ago but ive been having issues with print quality and warping so just basic things
eg these lines
bad layers on this print
brim is also being weird
if i get a bambu it's most likely going to be x1c due to how set and forget it is and the fact it has so much shit that you don't need to do (eg flow calibration with lidar and etc)
the h2d would be very nice for the sheer amount of things it has but it's very expensive and idk if i actually need that
(keep in mind i still don't have a wage yet and my only source of income is my grandma and me cleaning the pool)
people also have complained about the h2d but it's mainly things firmware updates can fix which i think bambu sent one out a few days ago
one thing i wish i could do though is change the print speed
there's a print speed kinda thing on the dashboard but i noticed it dosent multiply flow correctly or other measurements like bambu does so if you ever change the multiplier there's a good chance it's going to come out looking like crap
squarin time
fuck it im selling the frame i don't like it
slightly twisted but a friend says he'll fix it up and use it
"squarin time"
gives up an hour later
this is like the 5th time i've tried resquaring this shit
cant resquare a bent frame
a found another 3d printer frame and i'll build one from that
but for this one im waiting for my friend in china to get me a new one
Got a bed and some tinted acrylic for enclosure
Need to think some chonky cable for the bed power
power supplies and fans located
it feels strange for once, being able to build a printer without waiting weeks for parts
just throwing parts at it to see how much i need to buy, so far nothing
decided to redesign it based off a later version
my mf toolhead pcb died
found out because the heatbreak fan was fine but was saying it was brokey, and a chip on the board was very warm
guh
at least your toolhead board didnt nuke the rest of the printer
we ball
it's looking better
ok the pcb fixed it
I think electronics go in here too I FINALLY got a 555 to work!!
I couldn't figure out for the life of me why it wouldn't work last night but turns out my power supply was bad
I've been trying to get one to work for years
Maybe it was a power supply issue the entire time
Hooked it up to a relay now
car indicator
555 is timer chip right
Yep
Well
Not quite
It is used to make timer cricuits
It's what it's made to be used for, but you need additional hardware for it to be a timer
But it generally is referred to as a timer chip
im starting to really think more about the x1c now
I just tried to do a simple print yesterday and i had to re level my bed like 10 times and then apparently the z offset or something was wrong
Its goated
I lucked out and got one for free (or else id be too broke to afford one) and its been nothing but reliable day 1 to today
Highly recommend (for people who just want to print and to not tinker with things, just a rock solid machine that will work day in day out every single time)
FYM LUCKED OUT
HOW
HOW ARE ALL YOU MFS GETTING FREE STUFF ๐ญ
#1264496483957346346 message
GRRRRRRR
i have like 4k but i dont want to spend 2k on the x1c ๐ญ
i dont have a wage still
only income is chores
that's the thing something like the a1 would work but
I heard they are just as reliable in terms of starting a print and just knowing it will work
dynamic flow and all that other shit the x1c can do is a really big selling point for me
my school has an x1c
well idk what to tell u
thats the cheapest one on the market
for what it does
try comparing that price to the prusa xl or whatever
so ive actually had hands on experience but i cant just use theirs all the time (and im on break)
oh yeah i know
im going to like
keep trying to get my ender to be useful and if it fucks up something related to dimensional accuracy or offset again im probably just going to get an x1c
dynamic flow is a really big thing imo
loool yea I struggled with an ender too
never owned one tho
just working with one a lot
until we got a P1S
that thing just churns out prints
talked with my mom and im going to buy it when i get back from poland in about a month
i have the money to do so and ill be getting some more later on
why are u in poland??
๐
enjoy it
not yet lol
im leaving on the 19th because my mom's dad is uh
"not doing good"
so
it begins
as for my ender 3 v2 it works but its just way too much of a hassle
i think im going to keep it for now
ill think about selling it but im probably just going to keep it
i thought about getting the h2d but it isnt worth it for my usecase
plus if i ever need to get a h2d for some reason i can use my schools or buy my own since ill probably have an income
Oh alright. Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
What are the extra plates for?
they just give a cool effect on the build plate side of a print
they were on sale anyways so i said fuck it why not
what i didn't like about the bambu checkout is that the plate and filament you get is rng apparently??! ๐ญ
eg my school got green PLA carbon fiber black and support material as well as a both side textured pei plate
i have no idea what im gonna get
im hoping i get at least what my school got
would really like carbon fiber and support material
The... plate shouldn't be
"Free" filament is rng
the plate is apparently??
You shouldn't be buying filament from bambu anyway
let me check the page
oh yes i know
i have so much fucking filament anywyss
but the carbon fiber is nice
and free
hatchbox is great
and overture
I mean you can, some of their "high tech" filament is actually really solid and works good on their printers
yeah that's why im hoping for like special material
not regular stuff
the support material they sell is also great
I've test run that paht-cf stuff
For high impact/temperature environments
It holds up
Lol I think its rng color, always PLA ๐
Don't take my word for it tho. But I doubt the more pricy stuff is included
i would get abs but i dont have the proper filtration system although the printer is literally going to be less than a foot from my window and elevated so ill probably shove a exhaust pipe from the back of it to my window if i have to since we have a mod for that i made at my school
guess my school just got lucky then
ill have the person that's watching our house unbox the printer and see what material and build plate they gave
so i can order it while im away
let me go look at the listing rq
X1cs have a carbon filter. Feed output of that with some draft from a fan out the window you will be fine
good to know
im still going to put a exhaust pipe out the window just in case
(abs smells awful)

