Is anyone familiar enough with shelly firmware to be able to tell me if wiring like this would work? I have a 3 way switch with line and load in separate boxes. Which output type would you use?
#Shelly 3 way wiring....
delicate marsh
Do you actually have four total switches in two sets of two, or is that diagram from somewhere else?
Basically, if you can wire the output of the 2-way circuit to the switch terminal of the shelly (with the other end of the switch circuit fed from mains voltage), then it should work in that "edge" mode.
Here's the diagram of how one of mine is wired.
Colours are NZ (red phase, black neutral), except for one section of wire which is the standard for our 2-way switch wiring with red/white/blue wires.
(much as I'd love to replace the section of wire going from the house to the garage, zero chance of pulling anything new through that conduit)
And the physical bits:
In short, I think it should work how you've described, so long as you only have one set of switches and one set of bulbs (or two shellys, one for each)
lone bough
yea good question, that diagram is from a Zooz zwave relay i have somewhere else. The way you are suggesting is logical except in the 2nd box where the load is, I dont have a constant on to power the relay. Everything is a 3 way switch.
the diagram I shared is actually for a dual relay (2x 3 way switches, 2 loads), but the idea of it is you power one member of the line to send constant power to the relay and the traveler line you would use for more of a momentary trigger for the relay
delicate marsh
Yeah without a permanent phase+neutral you probably won't get very far.
I tried to "fix" mine to - as much as possible - use the current standard's wire colours, but you'd be consigned to doing something horrible / non-compliant to work around not having enough cores.
lone bough
confirmed that the wiring diagram I did doesnt work. The sensor in the shelly isnt sensitive enough to catch the momentary toggle between hots.
sterile lodge
@lone bough do you have a schematic of how it was originally wired?
lone bough
delicate marsh
Yep, you're definitely exactly one wire short of that being easy to do anything with.
eternal fern
I know a Zooz can handle that config, I'm surprised that shelly wouldn't be able to.
sterile lodge
like this?
eternal fern
Yup that's what I was going to post.
sterile lodge
shelly doesn't have the normally closed contact available
the zooz basically simulates the working of the switch including power measuring to sense if the light is on or not?
eternal fern
I don't think the zooz has to monitor power. if it powers the load the light is on, if it cuts the load the light is off
sterile lodge
but how would the second switch still work then
eternal fern
I guess it has like a weak pull up on the traveller.
it can sense the second toggle flip by if the red -> neutral circuit is open or closed
the second switch is not in the path of power at all, so it cannot cut the connection to the light
it's just a feedback to the zooz in 1st box
sterile lodge
the second switch is not in the path of power at all, so it cannot cut the conne...
i see that now 😅
lone bough
the zooz relay is catching the split second that the circuit is open while toggling between the 3 way poles
eternal fern
no
sterile lodge
lone bough
wrong zooz, thats the switch... Im talking about the relay
eternal fern
gotcha
lone bough
thats their double relay, 2 loads and 4 switches
which I have working in another switch... this one is for a fan which the shelly is rated for and zooz isnt
so wired like that the relay sees "on on on on on on on" "off" "on on on on on" really fast and counts it as 1 toggle
eternal fern
so flip it slowly 😅
lone bough
haha
lone bough
thats news, may just pivot there. I had an extra power monitor that I was going to put on the sump pump that I ended up throwing in for now. The use case is a guest room fan that keeps getting left on and we dont notice. At least now I can have an alert that its been left on.