#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 39 of 1
OK, so let's start one by one, the first is regarding lights. I want to use tracklights at home
What should I check / avoid ordering?
here's what I've found:
LongLight - link
Description:
Light source: OSRAM/Bridgelux led chip
APP: Smart Life, Tuya Smart, Support zigbee2MQTT
linbird - link
Description: Control Method: Tuya App/Voice Control(Alexa、Google Assistant or SmartThings)
Zigbee version lamp:Need to connect with zigbee gateway
RoyalBlue - link
Description: Tuya Bluetooth Dimmable Zigbee.
The seller said it works with zigbee
I don't think that Ali have any items that listed there 🙂
Also, stay the fuck away from Osram
Sure they do
But, if the device isn't listed there then Z2M doesn't (currently) have support, so if you buy them you have to provide the support
all i want is track light 😦
All I want is a pony and a plastic rocket...
what about a plastic pony and a rocket?
Well, better than plastic dinosaurs... maybe
i can make it happen
but we need to make it "smart" in order to continue chatting about it
a zigbee2mqtt compatible plastic pony
we've already warned you about buying random tuya bullshit off alie
like... yesterday... but here we are 
Any idea where can I buy something like that, is there a reliable source?
Can't find any 😦
I'd send you the rocket but Brexit...
Why is having those track lights so important?
cuz they're fuckin sick brah
Then they should buy them and worry later. That's what I do when I see cool stuff
its like buying a pony and getting a platic one, that will break my spirit
I don't mind buying samples and then publishing here my results for future light-track lovers likemyself (don't be shame comming out and saying they are sick toooo!). but I'll need your support
tuya is a "brand" that any asshole can go to and say "i have money make me product" and then a new device called "magic track lights tuya" on aliexpress shows up
will it work? maybe. was it manufactured well? maybe. is the firmware bug ridden? maybe. is it a fire hazard? maybe. etc etc etc etc etc etc etc
most people choose to just.. not stick their dick in crazy (tuya)
you're killing my hopes
maybe I can do something different, buying a regular track and making it smart..
the bird is the word
It's called X now
more like eks dee
i lost you
Gen Z memes
can you translate to a Millennial like myself?
@cold moon got me worried about the fire hazzard thingy..
bird is the word -> family guy tv show meme with a big bird.
bird = twitter = rebranded to X cuz elon musk is an absolute idiot
X = XD = eks dee (me memeing about people saying XD as a smiley face)
Is there anyone that is willing to test out a magnetic track light? I'm new to this $hit and it might be better if someone else will verify if such litghs are compatible
I don't mind buying a sample lamp and shipping it over - DM me
I'm going to have nightmares including track lights tonight
I'm tempted to get the myself then don't tell anyone whether they work or not
black your website should include a tracklight review. it will increase your userbase. trust me on this one 🙂
It'll increase by ONE whole user!
I swapped out single device track lighting in my new house to get hue par30 bulbs instead of dumb-par20 bulbs. No clue what "single device" tracks are, but basically the track lighting spin connector, but not on a track, on a square 🙂
Alright, folks, it's official - we've all secretly fallen in love with magnetic track lights! 🙊💡 Time to embrace our magnetic attraction to better lighting, no more hiding in the shadows. Let's light up our spaces and let our interiors shine as bright as our not-so-secret love for track lights!
Quality over quantity, my friends!
@gloomy juniper as I said yesterday, you could always take the "buy once, cry once" approach here and buy yourself some Hue track lights.
Looks like a pretty nice selection; I and L-shaped tracks, mix-and-match spots, pendants and strip lights.
Just typical Hue pricing, is all.
https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/products/smart-track-lighting
Hopefully eliminates any concerns about it burning your house down 😉
i didn't either, i bought par30 hue bulbs instead 🙂
TBH I didn't either, showed up in one of my RSS feeds a few days back (despite them apparently being released a year ago)
ya that is definitely what i'd buy over tuya @gloomy juniper
i think you've already bought the tube zigbee coordinator to control them
yes I did
then you're golden with just those
I don't think they ship to Israel, I'm trying...
well he linked to en-gb
https://www.philips-hue.com/en-ae i see this
Hahaha, sorry, I didn't mean to cause a shut up and take my money moment for you
probably a good thing
they have a local distributer named topaudio, they actually pretty close to where I live
cool
I'll check with them, thanks! they don't have the tracks on their website
that person might try to get you to buy a hue hub to control them
dont listen to them 😛
altho i would confirm they have z2m support on z2m products page
I doubt they will even understand what I'm looking for, they might offer a speaker instead
its one of those places that it all depends who answer your call
lol
if you get a bad support, just hung up and call again
https://www.philips.co.il/healthcare/about/distributors i see they have a full list
they all deal with med-care... The only thing that might resemble what I'm looking for is a colonoscopy device
topaudio is my best chance
that or I'll need to fallback to a smart switch that will turn the track on/off.. but than I'm losing the dimmer and color control of the bulbs 😦
smart dimmers are fine as long as they can handle the load
and they make bulbs that change color temp based on voltage iirc
but choices are limited and no actual colors that way
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbvVnOxb1AI Listen to Alec (Technology Connections) rant about those for 22 minutes 😄
Gonna take on a light subject today.
Links n' stuff
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I’m not a fan
I like warm white at all times with different levels of dim
And sometimes purples, pinks, blues, or some multi colored effect from led strips / bulbs
WDYT of this one, I think of using conventional methods
they have a model that changes its color every time you turn it on (you need to turn on, off, on to change a colort):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005478125257.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.15.2bb43042Sfkwr7&pdp_npi=3%40dis!ILS!₪ 53.45!₪ 38.48!!!!!%40211b88f116946452947505326efd06!12000033244317051!sh!IL!103042701
I wonder if its dimmabel
No main lamp design
Upgrade the sixth generation magnetic suction lamp
^^ quoted for truth
"magnetic suction lamp", new band name, called it
the suction is a plus. Don't be fooled, it's magnetic & suction-able all together to increase safety
Farewell, everyone! 🙌
Thanks for the unwavering mental support - you guys rock! 🤘 May the mighty Track Light God bless us with endless luminescent wisdom.
Shine on!
\o/
re: smart dimmers, shouldn't they be pulsing the voltage, not changing it?
Depends on the dimmers as I understand it
You can get pwm dimmers, leading edge, falling edge etc
led dimmers should be pulsing, incadencents are just going to drop the load by adding resistance
Yeah
anyone on this channel should be working with LED's 🙂
From memory you can run an led off a leading edge or pwm dimmer
But if you run it off a falling edge dimmer you get flickering
I need to rip out the dimmer switches as I have smart bulbs now, so watching them flicker unless I tap the dimmer adjustment every now and then is a bit annoying
What dimmers?
lutron dumb dimmers
i'll either swap out for a physical on/off, or jumper the wire, lucky me, I have no neutrals either
Ah ok, I've run into problems with smart dimmers doing weird things
No neutrals or no earth/ground?
no neutral, have ground
Hmm, that would trip the breaker in my country so idk what you guys are doing over there
the switch is inline with the light bulb
US, house built in the 1980 retrofitted 2 years ago, but doesn't look like they ran extra neutrals, just kept the existing power to the lights switches/lights.
In my country the active and neutral lines carry current and ground is separate and tied to a leak detector
Ah ok, weird
Don't us houses wire neutral and earth together?
Not my area of expertise tho
i have white/black/green wires, the switch is inline with the light, I throw the switch and all power is gone from the light.
https://theiotpad.com/smart-switches-no-neutral-wire/ - https://theiotpad.com/wp-content/uploads/switch-power-no-neutral.png
i was just looking at that image, not the article
Ah yep
In some us houses the ground and neutral are the same, so you use ground as your neutral in this case I think
I know enough about electricity in my house to know some of what i don't know 🙂
In my country ground is separate and if you put current though it your breaker trips and shuts it off
i was happy to swap out exterior lights with hue floodlights, and discover the previous person never wired up the ground, so had to validate that the ground wire was actually still doing it's job
Yeah it should be
You just won't have proper fault detection
You'll get over power protection though (I think at least)
random bare copper wire in junction box not hooked up to anything "should be ground" is the correct "Should be" answer, i spent a few minutes with a voltmeter validating
got to use wago connectors instead of pigtails also
Ooh nice
i need to swap out 6 more exterior floodlights. Got a bunch of hue ones on clearance
Back at the breaker ground and neutral meet
If there’s a fault to ground then power goes back to the panel on neutral wire
I'm at the new house ownership stage of tracking down all the breakers at the panel/subpanels because previous owner left stuff unlabeled
Yeah that rings a bell
I only have one panel and very little labeling
I keep telling myself I’ll do it {{ year }} winter
Hehe
But they also have multiple rooms on one 20amp circuit multiple times
exterior panel, interior panel, two sub panels. bonus of giant solar system involved also, so more than a couple panic button breakers
It’s bullshit
My main problem is our house is really old and has been retrofitted twice throught the years
thankfully i don't have that issue, I have some wierd, 20amp circuit for a random wall in the kitchen, and then a 15amp circuit for stuff that is in the kitchen AND the living room.
all on one 20a 110 circuit
And the wiring is extremely sporadic
ahhh, nice, I should built something like that, was trying to figure out the easiest way to make a diagram
i used sweet home 3d
there are much better setups than what i made
i half assed it in 2 hours guessing on dimensions after a few brewskis
So we have one outlet on one side of the house and the next one in the chain is on the other side of the house
then decided it was good nuff
And none of it is documented
This will be the final chapter of the Home Assistant floorplan tutorial series. This video will show how to get the final result from putting it all together while using the svg format to produce and render an interactive floorplan.
Inkscape: https://inkscape.org/
ha-floorplan card: https://github.com/ExperienceLovelace/ha-floorplan
Resources...
that looks a lot nicer
I took the top down picture from the realestate pictures (matterport), and then turned it into shapes in powerpoint
and reacts to lights being on/off
I've been meaning to try that
there's prob an even better project out now
i havent kept up
i've been hoping @opal falcon releases some fancy new floorplan into hass proper
Does anyone here have experience using hass with both clipsal cbus and dynalite?
i've never even seen those 'words'
Yeah I expected that lol
Cbus only really has penetration in Australia and a couple of other countries
It has a different name in the US
Dynalite is a thing in the us
Its Philips' hardwired smart building thing
Basically cbus has been end of life since 2009
And we have to tear back one of the floors in my house anyway for other reasons so now is the time to switch if we are going to
Dynalite uses RS485 over shielded cat5 cable
Philips Dynalite creates sophisticated, reliable, and energy-efficient lighting control solutions for residential, offices, retail, hospitality, industry, stadiums, public spaces, and more.
Think Philips hue but not wireless
That reminds me of a reddit post I saw where someone finished their basement. Instead of adding physical switches, they instead told the electrician they want everything to be hardwired and that they'll use Philips Hue Zigbee lights and battery-powered remotes to control the lights
That's gonna be fun when they sell the house
Ha
Yeah that's why we want to go dynalite if we switch
Not going anywhere
Hass supports it natively though unlike cbus
With cbus you have to run a cbus to mqtt bridge and use the hass mqtt integration 💀
i figure there has to be at least one person here who uses or has used dynalite for it to be supported without an integration
The Philips Dynalite integration was introduced in Home Assistant 0.106, and it's used by 28 active installations.
that's not really a high usage count
Oh man, I was talking to someone about CBus just a couple of days ago.
Our office has "Casambi" Bluetooth-mesh lights that I was trying to gain control of with https://github.com/lkempf/casambi-bt-hass, was talking to the installer about firmware updating them, got to talking, CBus came up. I helped an old colleague with an install of it years and years ago, was... interesting... to program
From what I’ve heard that’s 100% against code
Emergency services are supposed to be able to flip a switch if they’re in there
yeah i figured as much lol
from what i gather its mainly used in set-and-forget buildings
ah, what'd you use to program it? PICED or Homegate/wiser?
i'm in the process of replacing both piced and homegate with HASS, i've got state working, just need to make a floor plan
not a lot of people seem to have dynalite and want to do anything more than have their electrician set it up for them and leave it at that
doesn't help that philips doesn't want the end user having access to their configuration tooling etc
with cbus being end of life, all the documentation and software is publically available at least
We didn't, sadly. The app has the (entirely non-discoverable) name of "4Remote BT"
I'm trying to wrestle control of them
Because the app is trash, and HA would at least let me have a nice dashboard that people in the office could use to change the brightness of the light above them, without risking turning every light in the building off because none of the tap/long-press/double-tap actions do anything like what you'd expect them to
ah
when my free time exists again in the coming year i'm looking to write a robust replacement for CGate/cmqttd in rust
hopefully with support for cbus network bridges
once i've got the library written i'll either package it as a standalone HASS integration or as a bridge to MQTT, similar to CMQTTD
assuming i don't make the jump to dynalite before then 😆
then i've also got a bunch of legacy hydronic/hvac heating control panels that i need to lobotomise and hook up to an esp32 for hass integration
which is another whole beast
It's nice that aside from having to obey minimum cycle times, a lot of heating/cooling controllers boil down to not much more than a bunch of relays
yeah, that's the only reason i'm hesitant to get rid of the controllers altogether
before i order some more hue motion sensors (indoor), are any of the mmwave units plug and play at this point? (I don't have a 3d printer or the time to futz with them)
Other than tuya that I don’t trust I don’t think so
Or aqara fp2 but some features locked to their app
1/2 plug n play ? - https://community.home-assistant.io/t/screek-home-assistant-24ghz-fmcw-wifi-human-presence-detector-radar-1u/560444/4
scrolling, this looks like i'm order the hue sensors for now
I’d consider that needing to be futzed with
As much as I like hue motion sensors, you might want to try the aqara 3.0 ones
P1 sensor I think
yeah, I got lucky and started with hue sensors and the battery life and they just seem to work for me so far
I'm mentally trying to figure out how i want to deal with split lighting solutions moving forward (zigbee hue + wifi in same room)
They’re smaller and have a 1 second retrigger time compared to 30 second with hue
Which is nice for stuff like bathrooms, stairs, etc
when i last looked the p1 was ~$100usd
looks like ~25 on amazon us. Maybe I was looking at the fp1? or whatever the mmwave unit was
i can get hue ones for $35
Yea
I’d at least get one to try they’re getting popular
Unless you need the lux or temp from hue
temp is just for fun, lux is useful for lights not going on if it's not dark, but i guess i could use time/sun-location
it matter in some rooms with blackout shades for me, but i have 5 hue units already
Plenty of repeaters?
yeah, a number of bulbs in each room right now
Cool
but need to verify that (dealing with the wiz recessed lights, where i used to have bulbs everywhere)
previous rental house was two floors, new house is one floor and long
As a reminder Wi-Fi airtime fairness is a big concern when you start throwing tens of iot devices on a single AP
I've got 3 AP's two are 4x4 mimo (ubiquiti nanonhd units, an a u6lite unit). All the IOT devices get static ip's via DHCP.
all the human run devices (minus phones) are on hardwires
Static ips doesn’t matter but locking them to APs does
yeah, I'm hoping the static ip's gets me less flakeyness at the app-level
i haven't looked at locking to AP's yet
It’s per device in the UniFi controller
right now the wiz lights at the literal opposite side of the house are connecting to the AP next to me for some reason.
I noticed devices were roaming to far away APs and had no reason to ever roam for like.. a smart tv in a room
Airtime fairness I bet
As you walk around the house with your phone you connect to a closer AP and the iot devices get pushed off
I think it’s probably some bug or shit behavior of the UniFi controller trying to help
Happened to me
that would make sense, other than the local to the light has AP has 5 devices, and it picks the unit with 17 devices on it
I turned band steering off on all my APs too
checking settings now
Play with it.. I’m using older in wall APs mostly
I’m not 100% sure it’s not just my shit being old
I assume you ran an environmental scan from each AP and chose the channels accordingly in a honeycomb pattern?
1-6-11 in a line. 🙂
my 2.4 is less than 5% on environment scans from the ap's
where i used to live more in city was like 85% in use
And picked a zigbee channel correctly as well
right now, hue autopicked achannel
Oh you’re using their shit bridge..
yeah, it's worked for years without fail for me
Well then the aqara or other zigbee devices are useless to you
nahh, I have a sonoff-e stick setup and working in parallel 🙂
was using it with sengled power monitoring plugs
it was the "do i migrate everything native HA or not"
Damn you crazy
All the interference
You made sure to put stuff with wireless radios inside metal boxes too right?
i made sure the sonoff-e and hue were on different channels, i may have paid attention to wireless channels but probably not
nothing that I use that is latency dependent is on wireless 🙂
i'm typing on a desktop that goes all hardline
That’s what they all say
since I just ran 2x 100' cables a couple days ago .....
as temporary until I can figure out how to deal with my crawlspace to run cables properly under the house into jacks
I’ve heard bad things about these and routing issues
I never suggested touching airtime fairness
they seemed to work with ikea remotes though
Just that devices and APs have limits
i'm confused about these differences:
nothing i can do about the -83 in the short term, it's the car charger unit in the garage a couple exterior walls away
but i like hte "excellent" experience with RED/YELLOW signal strength
Experience is mostly airtime fairness like how many clients are on one AP I think
"but i like hte "excellent" experience with RED/YELLOW signal strength" 🤣
Does anyone know if it is possible to add events to a button? Let's say I want a click once and hold function. Can this be done in a blueprint, or is this firmware based for what ever button/switch I am using?
"it depends"
go on
i did double click on buttons, click and hold depends on what the unit sends
you are basically firing of events
what remote?
ok, so if I have a button that has click, double click, hold (~4seconds) then it would take some scripting probably?
Either the Sonoff SNZB-01 or Aqara button
I am kind of asking in general at this point.
or may already be done
looks like i got it from here - https://gist.github.com/seamus65/2be0f8c665ac8c1e011fbd1a0937f9e1
https://epmatt.github.io/awesome-ha-blueprints/docs/blueprints/controllers cool kids use these
Integrate a wide set of controllers in Home Assistant and provide an easy to use interface to run custom actions on a controller event.
I use the round ikea 5-button ones, had to modify a blueprint to get longpress or double click
Right, so that button has those 3 functions. I am curious if I could expand on that by implementing a click then hold function. Not sure if the blueprints are able to be expanded or if the firmware on the button is sending those exact signals. I am still pretty new to this
you could modify it without too much difficulty
From the last link you sent, it looks like I need to look into how the RAW controller events are handled and maybe use Hooks.
Thanks, I think you sent me in the right direction
i can't remember what i did, but i modded a blueprint to support double click on something, which was basically click <max time> click.
using ZHA
That is exactly what I am asking. I'll look into what modifications I can do to the blueprints then,
I'm using Zigbee2MQTT, but I am sure it is possible either way
I do remember fighting with the controller/hooks "awesome ha blueprints" for awhile, and never got it working satisfactoryly, so just got a blueprint working instead.
I think I fought more with getting the play-media method to do the right thing, the goal was making long press load up and start a playlist of radio statiosn, and up/down volume, left/right track advance.
Any theory why the son off s31 wifi has energy metering the the s31 zigbee does not?
I'd like to use less wifi stuff but the s31 zigbee switch seems to only be a switch
No theory but fact: manufacturer designed it that way
The sonoff zigbee ones blackhole routes iirc
S31 Wi-Fi flashed to esphome are a good option
Well yea I know that :)... I was asking to learn. I assume either it's too expensive for zigbee or some other limitations and I'm curious
Yes that's what I'll probably do... I just get annoyed when looking through my lost of devices. I try to give them names in my router so I know what's what
i guess that's not s31's technically
No such thing, they just decided to make it like that
I wouldn’t buy sengled anything
they are offline, because they are unplugged, but they were routing
I can't imagine they'd sell an inferior zigbee with the same model number without some reason. But I understand if there is no engineering limitations or price. I feel like years ago when I was researching it was said that zigbee devices were more expensive though
technically they are two different models
That doesn’t make sense
https://us.sengled.com/collections/accessories/products/zigbee-smart-plug - these are zigbee and power monitoring
Automate appliances in your home in minutes with the Sengled Smart Plug. Plug into the outlet and connect to your smart hub using the Sengled Home app. Add electronics or small appliances to control from anywhere; great for lamps, fans, holiday lights, mobile phone chargers and more. Turn on/off with a tap or create sc
Lemme check those out
model is E1C-NB7
Hmm. Like most Sengled stuff it gives me sticker shock. Then again my cheap wifi plugs slowly die so maybe I need to consider spending more
Sengled isn’t a good buy
they run US dicounts for 4 for $45-$55 quite often
Third reality zigbee are suggested for energy monitoring plugs
Okay that would be an acceptable price. I'll have to keep an eye out
s31's with tasmota or similar will give you more info, depending on what you are looking for
third reality is indeed a good price, i don't remember those being around when i bought the sengleds
They’re a company spun off by ex hue enployeee and part of the works with home assistant project
I don’t have any of their devices myself tho
sounds like a better choice then the sengled then 🙂
Mostly cuz of the zigbee firmware issues I’ve seen with sengled and sonoff tho…
Do you mind saying what the extra info is? I tried googling to see what the switch has. I have an unflashed s31 and it just gives me amp, volts, and watts
Ah. Power factor stuff, nice
that's running 12.2 tasmota, just running update on it now for curiosity
I still don't fully understand power factor, the more unread the more IP gket confused but I understand the value of the information
more information is not always a good thing
and with an KAUFF bulb plugged into it now:
Third reality has a power factor but not the other two. I just heard of helpers yesterday. Can a helper be made that calculates reactive power and apparent power? There is a simple formula right to get that if you know watts and power factor?
watts is just amps*volts
Yea I mean the apparent power and reactive power
Isn't one of those like watts * power factor? And the other is watts * (1- power factor)
meanwhile, here's that sengled power monitor information, same bulb:
5.9 != 7
for those paying attention
Okay I'm going to get both. I want that power factor information as an alternative to kill-a-watts, but I also want some zigbee plugs to as repeaters
Yea I'm going to get third reality zigbee and some son off s31
Then I have to figure out how to actually use zigbee lol
i got pre-modded s31's, are they selling them easily flashable now?
I dunno. I saw a review that looked like it might have header pins installed
Unless the guy put them on and I missed it
Notice:Canada is not reachable from US wareshouse, please choose shipping from China. Upgraded new version , HLW8032 consumption monitoring chipset build in, NO calibration needed, The measurement error of active power about 0.2%The measurement error of effective current is 0.5%The measurement error of effective voltage is 0.5% Lates Tasmota fu...
No…
Okay
You use alligator clips or solder onto tiny pads it’s a bitch
or $13 usd from cloudfree
Alligator clips are my plan
I’d flash them to esphome regardless
I'll have to figure out what that is
There’s no functional difference between tasmota
I've seen me tion of esphome and tasmota. It don't know. The difference
Both ways use yaml to give you the ‘extras’ you see above
if it's tasmota, swapping to esphome is trivial
This is what I have mine setup like with esphome
I love and hate the options in smart homes. I'm always having to Google comparisons of options and there is rarely a clear answer
Zigbee options for HA, front ends for Klipper, now esp home or tasmota.
There’s always a clear answer there’s just rarely only one answer that is sufficient or best
I mean Klipper is for 3d printers but I sort of consider that smart home
It’s really not
as long as you start the journy understanding that you'll be burning money to experiment, you'll be fine 🙂
My smart home of the future includes on site fabrication 🙂
And eventually there will be something useful to automate with 3d printing so I count it
Thanks for the help figuring out the plug situation. Like I said a lot of my smart plugs have died so I need to start replacing them so I wanted better ones this time.
hate to ask, "died" may require a different solution then just replacement
Some.just stopped connecting to HA, some aren't responding to their native apips either, some have physical switches also no longer responding
I don't think I have any power issues. I mean this current house is not wired the best so it's possible some of them died due to a power issue
I mean I assume the relays haven't died in them yet but who knows. Theph werpe just the cheapest at the times I ordered thlem
Aukey brand, tp link kass, and some.off brand bn-link
They aren't all dead yet but It wasn't immediately clear how to reset them so I gave up 🙂
I'm moving my house to solar now so I really need metering anyway so thed be replaced if they still worked.
I want to create an automation that turns on things like ozorne generators, dehumidifiers, and such when it's sunny and my batteries are charged. But I also want to start tracking down vampire devices
buy more solar to resolve that
My limitation right now is battery size. So I want to run some non essential things when I have extra power I can't store. I'll expand my battery capacity next year. I also want the ability to shut off non essentials on cloudy days too.
I'll leave you with this:
Nice. I don't have grid export. I don't have an agreement and I chose an inverter without the option.
I have a 10kW array but between my loads and battery i haven't seen more than 5kW.
I checked some reviews and it looks like power factor doesn't work in home
Assistant with the Third Reality zigbee plug
can anyone reccomend a relay board that can be powered by 12v and has 8-16 relays that can be easily integrated in home assitant (ideally through lan/ethernet) these relays will just be used to switch automotive relays for pumps/lights etc but i want to be able to switch these relays on and off via home assistant
@fringe moon got a 16 or somewhat channel board from some user here, where did you get it atxbae?
heh, hope the guy made it and its his product
i see Kincony have a few boards is there much difference between this board and say https://www.kincony.com/16ch-esp32-poe-ethernet-relay-module-kincony-e16p.html or https://www.kincony.com/esp32-16-relay-din-rail-relay-module.html ? Is there any general guide to setting these up ? i have some experience with esphome setup
differences should be obvious from the specs
general guide would be kincony forums linked from the device page
ok cheers bud, do you know best way to buy these boards as i cant see where to order?
there's an aliexpress link from my page
ok cheers bud
I am envious of people who understand those things, talk about relays and fake ponies. Damn you all! 🙄
Looking through my box of things I bought from AliExpress by never used I have a ch341A eeprom programmer. It seems to just be a USB to ttl.so.incsn use that to flash tasmota right? It has the gnd, 3.3, rx and tx pins
64 channel
it's called: spent time learning about insert topic. i used to be you a few years ago
That's ... rather how the universe works... nobody's born knowing it all
technically yes but not the way you mean
here's the wiring required https://youtu.be/SR2WcK1jobk?si=ucrDIpVjkrPSCUng&t=533
Instalation new nodemcu esp8266 homemade and make it can be programr with ch341A flash programmer with using arduino ide as compiler.
In this video i shown about how to make esp8266 work with arduino ide and upload example blink sketch from arduino ide.
@winged knoll , Yesterday you told me to stay the F away from Osram LED chip.
Several sellers told me they have Bridgelux and SANAN. WDYT?
Many many times I've said what I'd do, and apparently you're ignoring what I say
So... do whatever you want, you clearly don't actually care about my view
sure I do (this is why I asked if there other other options than Osram), I may have misunderstood your input. sorry
You've replied when I've given it... so
#hardware-archived message
There's only one way to do "this" right, but you don't want to hear it
it takes a while for my smart brain to process your input, it will catch up eventually 🙂
Good luck
Ah, mighty @winged knoll, the fountain of infinite wisdom! No need to be mad, O' mighty one. I'm just a humble peasant in your vast knowledge kingdom 🙂
without sarcasm, I really appreciate your doing 🙂
Hi,
I am using a NUC8BEH to run Home Assistant. I recently had to open the device for maintenance. Upon closing everyhing up and connecting it back to the PSU, I suddenly heard coil whine coming from the motherboard. After some trial and error, I found that it will go away when I leave the cable disconnected that is labeled as "RGB (HDD) LED header" in the data sheet.
As this only seems to be an LED indicator, I should be able to leave it disconnected, right? Are there any downsides/ dangers in doing so?
no, you'll just not have hdd activity displayed on the led
okay, I'm pretty sure I can do without that, given that it's an unattended box anyway. Thanks!
I have these venetian blinds which don't have a string (you have to push up or pull down the bottom bar). Is there any kind of hardware for opening and closing these kinds of blinds?
I'm aware of the switchbot one for tilting them, but was curious if there was something to actually move them up and down
This is actually the first time I've ever seen anything like this. I've only ever seen venetian blinds with a string
Quite a while back, someone here recommended the innr Zigbee bulbs to me. I quite liked them and want to install some more. Unfortunately, the package says "not for fully enclosed fixtures or damp areas like bathrooms". I, of course, want to install bulbs in a fully enclosed fixture in a bathroom. 😦
Does anyone have a suggestion for a bulb similar to https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SmartThings-Required-Dimmable-Equivalent/dp/B08428JSDZ that is also suitable for a fully enclosed fixture in a bathroom and is, preferrably, 8w or less consumption (the max allowed on my fixture)?
Yeah, was just about to say that... 🙂 Will give the Hue a look, though.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Tapo-Monitoring-Required-P110/dp/B097YBXHTW/ Would this be fully supported for local only use or flashable? Struggling to find info which seems odd to me as its TP Link
Control electronics from anywhere using your smartphone with the TP-Link Smart WiFi Plug. You can turn devices on/off, check status, create schedules and set timers using the Tapo app. Gain peace of mind by checking on your devices remotely and always coming home to a well-lit house. Use away-mod...
The HUE lights say not for enclosed spaces either, I ran two in a "nipple ceiling mount" for 4 years without issues, just basic white-850lm ones.
You will be reducing their livespan due to heat. As for damp locations, if your bathroom lights are getting wet, maybe invest in a better shower curtain.
LOL, fair point!
I'm pretty sure most of that is lawyer-speak for "don't blame us if they die young"... I imagine most will work. Thanks for the dose of common sense.
I got some hue white only for $8usd each so i wasn't that concerned about lifespan (well, I didn't want them burning out in a week, but 4 years, and they are still working, seemed fine)
I’ve had hue bulbs outside in Texas summer with humidity and winters and they keep going
3 years I think now
just put up 4 outdoor lhue floods (yay, more clearance) that i noticed say max temp 105f, I live in northern california, and it's supposed to be ~100f today
I've an old laptop that doesn't support AVX instructions for frigate and have issues running whisper etc. I'm holding back on buying a newer system for about another year. If I was to buy the coral usb accelerator would this solve my issues?
i'd ask in #cameras-archived
there does seem to be fix for running on cpu that doesent support avx
Oh? Do you know what it is or to send me in the right direction to find out? I do eventually want to replace the old laptop I'm using but got other pressing things to purchase unfortunately
Thanks I'll have a read!
Wish whisper also had a work around for it, really need to get newer hardware
were you the guy using that old netbook?
Nope, using an old dell laptop
cant go wrong with a mini pc
I get overwhelmed with the amount of options, plus I like using a laptop for that built in battery lol
well i still use a used laptop running haos
lenovo tiny with 6th gen cpu or higher is a safe bet
i took the wifi/bluetooth m.2 E slot card out and replaced it with a $25 coral m.2 E key
9 cameras using frigate, plus a bunch of other addons and it's running like a dream
8th gen intel i think
what cpu does that laptop have?
Honestly it's been great, besides not supporting AVX instructions
that is one old cpu
Oh definitely lol
i miss upgradable laptop cpus
Think I bought it 10+ years ago and repurposed it to run HA about 3-4 years ago
good news is once you upgrade you can use that old laptop as a boat anchor
well the framework laptops are apparently very good
you dont understand
cpu was socketed
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/42925/intel-pentium-processor-t4500-1m-cache-2-30-ghz-800-mhz-fsb/specifications.html only 13 years old
Intel® Pentium® Processor T4500 (1M Cache, 2.30 GHz, 800 MHz FSB) quick reference with specifications, features, and technologies.
if i never have to take apart a laptop again it will be too soon
https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/1402vs2627/Intel-Pentium-T4500-vs-Intel-i5-6500T - and for $150 you can upgrade to something twice as fast with an SFF (single threaded speed, same power)
Knew it was at least 10 years lol
To be fair it's done me well running HA and other random stuff like node red, pihole and a few other things
yeah, I won't tell you to upgrade for the sake of upgrading. But sounds like you potentially have a reason now.
i wonder how power hungry is it
Oh yeah I definitely do, I do have another old laptop, maybe about 6 years old lying about that's probably a bit more powerful. Not sure of the specs need would need to boot it up
You think it's heavy on power?
no no.. he should
just for the sake of it
Lol
generally speaking, the older, the less efficient
put a smart plug on it and report back
well, can probably just look at the laptop PSU for max wattage 🙂
we need real world results yo
I'll put a smart plug in it now and see how much it uses overnight
From earlier before i moved, my lenovo tiny i5-6500t unit running proxmox w/ HA in a VM, and another VM running dns/dhcp.
from our discussion yesterday even
me with N2930 based mini pc sipping 5w
yes but he wants to use frigate and that has no igpu able to use openvino right?
i raise you 10watts:
Let's see how it performs overnight
this is what all my network + server stuff takes
what the hell is that?
cloud based?
Yep dreadful, never use it except in small tests
yah, the ~15 watts on the tiny server doesn't include the networking gear, etc 🙂
./giphy straight to jail
(it was rainy today)
Oh stop it because I'd love to do a solar project to just offset the laptop at best! 😂
just for the sake of not upgrading your laptop, you should order a solar setup
And honestly that's a project I'm so not capable of doing successfully
gonna see if this ch341 can flash a s31 with esphome
do I have to flash tasmota first?
No lol
Tasmota is an option over esphome
Since nabu casa owns esphome and the configuration, to me, is simpler, I prefer it
When you go to ESPHome, the link it gives you to instructions is guide to installing tasmota so I thought maybe I had to do that 🙂 https://devices.esphome.io/devices/Sonoff-S31
I use an ftdi adapter
windows doesn't want to recognize this ch341 programmer so I'll prboably have to order a different serial adapter
yea i was hoping to use what I owned already. I might try Mint and see if it likes the programmer
I don’t see tasmota there anywhere
the link under initial install where it says "You must remove the cover and use the serial header"
If you have the esphome addon installed I’d use that to make the firmware
okay its one of those things
I’ve shared the yaml here
it doesnt have a stock yaml for the device?
oh wait ya there is a yaml in the link lol
well there's shit yaml
id call it confusing yaml
the password thing is confusing me
oh i see there is a secrets yaml
whats the format for the secret just wifi_ssid: ssid?
# Your Wi-Fi SSID and password
wifi_ssid: "yourusername"
wifi_password: "yourpassword"
way ahead of you
thanks
dpaste link above is the full yaml i use
except i fill in the api key
and change the device name
can i plug the programmer into the home assistant device to flash?
Did you install the drivers?
or do I need to make it generate a bin and use another device
either
home assistant is on a dedicate pi
You can download the binary to your machine
Then flash it with whatever you want, even a web flasher
if the programmer can work on the pi that would be better. I'll see what happens when i plug it in
well you dont need to plug it into the pi
i know but its not working on windows right now so I need to find another device anyway
haos for sure isnt gonna have the drivers i think
i installed the drivers but its not working
damn, okay i'll try my linux machine then
actually idk
also with the yaml i shared above- make sure you set ```yaml
switch:
- platform: gpio
name: "${friendly_devicename}"
icon: "mdi:power-socket-us"
pin: GPIO12
id: relay
restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF
i.e. if it's a fridge you definitely want that to reboot into ALWAYS_ON.. for reasons
always_off, no thanks 🙂
that's what happens after it regains power
because i dont need all my 3d printers online at 3am after a power loss
ironically thats what this plug is for.. my broken voron
time:
- platform: sntp
id: my_time
``` and this part was throwing errors in my unifi logs cuz i block traffic from IoT subnet that the plugs are on
so i had to add a fw rule for sntp
guess i should run a local one idk
never heard of sntp.. ive heard of the evil smtp 🙂
nope, forgot that part 🙂
i cant remember if you have to hold it down until you click flash or not
there's video tutorials- prob not a bad idea to watch one
i can change these yaml things from the webUI after I flash right?
yea
okay i just realized there is a jumper on the programmer, it had me in the wrong mode, now its in TTL.. should be able to do this on windows
so cool that ESPhome can find the serial
when does the YAML come into play
yea im gonna find a video
damn why are all the videos so long
10 minutes seems to be the shortest.. guess thatll do
because of youtube algo
yea.. friggin algorithm
yaml comes into play immediately
then maybe i messed up 🙂
i did the prepare for first use, it didnt ask for any config and then installed something but the next step failed..
i'll try to generate a bin file adn just flash that
I want to give my brother the automation of his new apartment, its size is 165m2
Nothing is automated atm
I am getting him a M910Q Tiny i5-6500T to install proxmox and HA on it
Now I am deciding what to do to automate his lights
Not sure if using shelly for lights
no need of proxmox to use HA , just if you want to install more stuff on your server
yea I don't like SD cards so I want to switch from a pi to a NUC or this crappy celeron NUC wannabe I have
proxmox is when you want to do more with the machine
celeron is not crappr for HA use
certainly better than a pi
yea. If I use the celeron I dont need proxmox as I dont care about monopolizing that device
if I use the NUC I'd want to multitask with it
i wouldnt
but you are fancier than me 🙂
Debatable
Why not?
HA is a critical service in my home so I keep it separate
lol, if the celeron is better than a Pi then that answers my question. That device I got for free adn its not useful for an UI stuff so dedicating it to HA works
damn compiling the firmware failed
my setup is working great with HA and frigate in different instances
confirmed not 😄
Debatable 
xtensa-lx106-elf-g++: fatal error: Killed signal terminated program cc1plus
compilation terminated.
*** [/data/voron-printer-plug/.pioenvs/voron-printer-plug/src/esphome/components/api/api_connection.cpp.o] Error 1```
do I need to fill in the api line?
Life is safer with backups
not to compile successfully
oh perfect that works then
it says its good for the web tool, and esptool is what I'd use if i dont use the web tool so
hmmm.. failed sooner this time 🙂
im gonna try the guide yaml
anyway, what would you all suggest to automate lights?
lights is a broad spectrum of devices
what kind of lights?
right
is he just trying to turn them on and off? or do fancier stuff?
In this case , I would use relays switches
then use relay modules
FML... why is nothign ever smooth. I must have broken some mirrors 🙂
Yes, indeed not sure if using wifi (shelly) zigbee or zwave
i've done this 8 times.. it's always smooth besides the actual soldering lol
buy an ftdi adapter not w/e you're using
the soldering went smooth. I honestly dont knwo why people dont like the soldering part
then make sure before proceeding
in my home I have something called HDL which is all wired so its 100% safe
well im not to the FTDI issue, i cant compile the firmware
well i have a $15 chyna special with not-a-small-tip and no solder fingers
that doesnt help
I have a TS100 and do a lot of fiddly soldering on drone stuff so I guess its easy to me now
once I tried a Tuya wifi device and was awfull
i'm not bad at soldering i just have shitty tools
it very much is
yea the TS100 is amazing. I need to ge the new one that is USB-C
i actually got a weller little station thing
but the tips it came with are even bigger
gotta get some
yea im gonna buy some clips so I dont have to solder next time. I just figured I'd do this with the plug I already have so that it does smoother when I get more plugs this weekend
TS and T12 tipped irons are great
i'll add them to the list
since you're murican youcan probably get a pinecil easily
i have an SI012 that takes both versions
I have a TS100 and use usb-c trigger to power it via USB-C, but skipping that would be easier
i only use the USB-C plug
like a 5525 to 5515 adapter, to a cable, to the trigger.. so excessive but at the time the pinecil wasnt out yet
DC barrels are so 2010
Anyway to automate the switches,
What I have read
ZWave is more reliable, more expensive
ZigBee is cheaper, less reliable
Wifi , not sure but I tried a tuya device that became crazy when power went out.
But I have tested a shelly wifi energy meter which works well, not sure how relay modules will behave
I dont know if anyone has experienced those shelly relays and how reliable are they
nah
most summaries, especially by youtubers, are wrong
whether intentionally or due to ignorance
not mine tho..
i hate zwave, granted i last used it with the the first smartthings I think, but I have so many zwave stuff collecting dust that I coul;dn't keep working
all are reliable if you dont have interference
zwave is actually more of a bitch than zigbee
but it shelters you from as many shit manufacturers/devices
so annoying when I ask google to turn off the lights it says sorry but 28 lights couldn't be turned off (or something like that)
personally i use mostly wifi devices because i don't use a shit router
need to find a way to remove smart things from google, and then burn all the google homes
personally i have too many wifi devices between wled and esphome and lose airtime fairness on my access points because of it
google homes are great as voice assistants for HA 😄
are they? thats good if true
because they have been more useless over the years
I'd like to find a way to make my HA alerts say something on the google homes on TTS
I have a notification when my freezer or fridge get too warm and I'd like that to yell at me
find a way? that's called a tts notification lol
my ADHD has made me blind to notifications on my phone
yea tis something I am sure is simple that I just haven't had time to google yet
when my mailbox is opened the old AOL "you've got mail" soundbyte plays on my homepod minis throughout the house
thats basically all they do in my home. and set timers
yea timers is all I use them for
yeah ADHD cares not for notifications
because of ADHD the timers alone make google homes worth it
preach
well no they also send all the things to the mothership to sell
but I forget to listen and half teh time google doesnt set the timer, so thats fun
What you set timers for?
luckily i live in a country google has minimal presence so nothing to sell really
and remidner to let the dogs back in the house, stuff like that
this is stoner behavior not adhd behavior
I find Alexa a bit better than google home
But Google Home integrates better into HA?
ive always been a bit straight edge
cant get stoned, tried it twice, it was terrifying
wrong kind of weed i guess. probably for the best tho
strong weed makes me unable to move, weed gummies makes my brain do this metacognition thing that I sort of hate
i dont get paranoid, but my natural tendency to consider things from two sides goes into a feedback loop lol. Makes it hard to get much done
"git gud at drugs" or something
but ADHD is not a real thing. It's really 2 or 3 things that have common symptoms.. some versions respond to things like weed, some dont
i'm complacent on pot so not great
can i do an apt update on HAOS? I am wondering if something ESPHome relies on is out of date
its yours 🙂
thought you said you were using the stock one
I tried yours and the stock one, same error
all i did wa chagn the substitutions
doy ou mean just the first three lines?
yup
k
I change like one word on lines 2 and 3
can you post the error again
xtensa-lx106-elf-g++: fatal error: Killed signal terminated program cc1plus
compilation terminated.
*** [/data/voron-printer-plug/.pioenvs/voron-printer-plug/src/esphome/components/api/api_connection.cpp.o] Error 1``````
hmm googling the xtensa line.. i didnt notice that the first time
that cant be the full error
it was the beginning of the red text
pretty sure it was all teh error bits but I'll try again to get something more complete if it fails againm. I found someone with the error saying using Update All worked and I think it got pas tht api connection step this time
i did just update HA to 10.5 so it could eb that coincidentally, but I think its going through this time
well if it fails to compile in my experience it's always been due to a configuration issue
one of the responses said they had a RAM issue on the pi so it might have just beent he reboot
but i think it does do some shit online with pio servers? idk
yea i see a lot of people saying its a ram issue with the Pi3B+
good to know. I tried to put it on a Pi4 but the restore didnt work for any of my devices
then use the esphome webflasher to create the firmware https://web.esphome.io/?dashboard_wizard
apparently there is a setting, compile_process_limit: 1, that can fix it
yolo
can I create from tehre?
I didnt see the compile stuff there, just a connect to the device where it didnt ask for the yaml
You have to reboot after a successful restore
If that doesn’t work you have bigger problems
i dont remember if I tried that. I think I did but it was a while ago
i'll try putting home assistant on the celeron thing I have and try again
Tbh I never suggested using the hass device
I do it on my pc
Using edge browser connected to hass
im using edge to connect to HASS and using ESPHome within that. The update got through the steps so I am trying to compile again
ill have to figure out a direct route to ESPHome. I assume I just need to know a port?
i dont follow
you said you do it from your pc connected to the hass
is that at homeassistant.local bla bla... or is it IPOFHA:PORT
ip:6052
damn it failed again. I'll try that
ok
confirmed pi3 issue
just give up
i can compile for you if you give me your ssid and password
I did the 1 thread thing and still
just never tell me where you live
and social security number
okay 🙂
i mean honestly
as long as i have no physical access and literally dont know where he lives
i dont see the huge downside lol
it's technically gross tho
the password is in the secret file so you dont even need that right?
yes
it doesnt need that before it packages everything up in a nice ball?
oh wait does it pull the secret file durign the compilation
lol for some reason I thought it was grabbign the secret when turning on.. i realize thats stupid
err?
to compile code for the devices to connect to his lan to?
what am i missing lol
ill just install it on another device to compile it. I need to be able to compile anyway
ye for sure
err!
well
i wasnt wrong
you're just suggesting after it failing due to not giving the wifi creds it falls back
lol i didnt realize the fallback generated a hotspot, thats nifty
Debatable
yes it does, btu I was thinking it was the hotspot on my phone that I'd have to turn on
my brain is fried okay.. too much yaml and reading logs
or all those manufacturers selling esphome devices are asking their customers for wifi credentials on each sale
and then you flash it
and then you edit the yaml connecting manually via your phone or laptop or something to put in your wifi creds
are there people flashing ESPHome on devices? What is the markup on that
you were linked to the cloudfree one yesterday with tasmota
but can't compile yaml so it doesnt matter
it's either nothing or like $1-2
shit
oy have to install python.. i hate python on windows
lets see if I can put it on ubuntu
its amazing how complicated this got fast 😄
wait i already have python on this machine.. so i can skip that step
not really complicated but it is another reason to say "dont use a pi with hass"
you can buy another printer to use the pi on tho
i have several pis not in use already
showoff
but i have more than enough printers I have yet to klipperize 🙂
i sort of hate klipper
well
like its awesome, but i break it way too often
you're a walking oxymoron
because tehy dont know how to update klipper
if i update klipper before moonraker or vice versa shit breaks half the time and I have to recompile and flash the firmware.. and i have a bad habit of pressing update all that I cant seem to break 🙂
an industrial engineer who owns a 3d printer farm and also has a lot of code in marlin upstream has confirmed his insurance underwriter on his farm wouldnt sign off if he was running even once instance of klipper
there's a legality issue with their use of emergency-stop
and that underwriter was probably right 🙂
i'm amazed the underwriter knows what klipper is 😄
definitely*
highly specialized i'm sure
not just some random allstate guy
klipper is bleeding edge nonsense
have you tried Duet?
its probably just that the underwriter knows what marlin is because its ubiquitous
i hope thats what its called
i've talked to a guy who thought alex jones and gay frogs made a lot of sense who liked duet
and insurance underwriters jsut say no to new shit
that explains it 😄
like a lot of people wont give you a loan to buiild a house using ICFs... which is a valid technology thats been around a long time, but they dont care
I think everyone agrees ICF is better than traditional concrete foundations but insurance people are wussies 🙂
i would if i knew what that is
insulated concrete forms
ya but this specific reason with "emergency stop" is pretty cut and dry
its basically like these insulated forms that you can put together quickly like legos and just pour the concrete in
would make a basement automatically insulated and make the build go faster saving time and money
funny that land of the free doesn't allow those
stick built houses are getting exponentially expensive becuase they take way too friggin long to build
oh it allows them
but on your own dime
you cant use a construction loan
freedom
its also hard to build a barndominium on a construction loan
though you are right that we have a lack of freedom in a lot of places
it's land-of-the-rich-do-what-they-want-not-free
I moved because I wasnt allowed to do any of my own damn work on my house where I was
and because when i did it anyway, my neighbors called code enforcement on me
now the neighbors cant see me. I piss off my balcony just because I can lol
this keeps people from selling a house that later falls down on the occupants 10 years down the road
I understand the logic, and its crap
like I would be okay getting things inspected, but they wont even let you do that
i think they let you do electrical if you take some homeowner test, but a lot of stuff you cant do
and I am like 3/4 of an electrican
are you in au?
well 30%, spend two years in IBEW 🙂
no I'm a yank
god australia makes me want to cry with the cost of power
im whining about paying 12 cents a kWh.. i hear its like 50 cents over tehre
yup windows python pissed me off already
lets try on ubuntu
Damn round 3- ready - fight!
days like today I want to move my main machine to linux. I never will do that again.. but sometimes I wish windows had a better terminal
i got it installed.. forgot windows needs administrator to be useful
windows terminal is pretty good
It’s got built in ssh now too
ssh.. why the hell is ssh such a pain on HA?
its not but it is on HAOS
well thats what I mean
anywhere else HA is just a part of an OS that already has SSH.. but its stupid on HAOS
why do you run it then if its stupid
okay its in stalled.. how do I get into it lol
well im learning that its stupid.. i thought it would be the best option at first
but the ssh thing made me mad earlier this week.. this compiling thing is making me mad today
to make a familiar analogy, you chose a Bambulab printer with HAOS
ive been out of the loop since about a month before everyone and their mom got a bambulab
so I dont get the analogy lol
HAOS is an appliance style install for people that don't want ssh and usually don't know what that is
ahhh yea that is not what I thought I was geting
well... you got it
I thought by its very nature that ther ewould be little difference between HAOS and another option if I didnt plan to multitask on teh devie
agreed.. its a little thing that I could get over. This flashing thing might be a deal breaker though
thats mostly you and your toy pretending to be a computer
its making me mess with python on windows.. i hate that
yea its such a cool toy though
but the sd card part makes what you say too true
but the thing that throws me is all the other appliance type use cases I have for the pi have ssh 🙂
i prefer my celeron running two different instances of esphome
and compiling them 😄
i'll be digging that celeron out tomorrow probably
it even runs parts of klipper 😄
i do want to figure out how to run multiple devices from one klipper
doesnt kiauh have an option to do that
tbh this is a decent reason to install proxmox on it
i still dont like that idea personally tho
if the box dies you lose all the printers
or learn docker
i hear a lot about proxmox and I looked into it. I dont know if the celeron has the power for it but my "server" should
i say "server" because someone criticized me because my server isn't a headless machine but just a desktop I use headless
oh wow.. using esphome on windows makes me feel like I am using linux.. this is creepy
oh no, how dare you
imagine if you used a laptop as server... sacrilege
i had to buy a DVi plug that pretends its a monitor
oh god I'd never do that
it failed to open the com port, is there a command to flash without having to compile over again?
yes
so will it go on wifi while connected to the 3.3v of the programmer or do I need to plug it into the wall
okay i see i got to plug it back in
aka power cycle
but pwoer cycle with mains, not the DC of the programmer
some programmers can't supply enough power but your seems to have a good voltage regulator
just unsolder the wires
soldern't
imma steal that
i used header pins 🙂
i can do without the wick.. but i had just foudn one like two days ago.. shjould be on my desk somewhere
heat solder, pull wires... easy
pins, not wires.. they dont come off as easy as wires. I never get to use my wick damnit
misplaced it. solder sucker it is
i have one of those white and blue $3 specials
that shit tries to jump out of your hand and still doesnt work unless you hit it just right
not a fan
it's either the perfect tool or worthless lol
those are crap
i bought solder wick but i got way too thin
err.. not wide enough
so i have to like triple it up to really soak up solder
didnt want to just toss it tho
you can keep it for those special moments
i've seen smd and then guys using microscopes with like solder balls
i dont want to be that guy lol
me neither, too stressful
The secret ingredient is flux. Lots of it
basically the answer to most soldering issues
except why the flux can is so fucking hard to open lol
gotta stop bulk buying on aliexpress
because you didnt buy the syringe
im sur ethis flux has cancer
It's usually rosin which can cause some issues: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin#Health_effects
It and many other things (epoxy, for example) can also cause sensitization afaik
i really need to print a solder fume fan kit
they have cute lil battery powered printable designs
thank god it worked.. because I ripped those solder pads off accidentally 🙂
not ideal
Northridgefix's youtube channel might be of interest to you. They mostly do micro soldering. Including repairing broken solder pads, traces and such.
i need to print a better one
i have a battery powered 3d printed fume extractor.. i hate it
it needs to be like an inch from the soldering iron to do much. I keep meaning to get a more powerful fan
i need to rebuild it completely though. I'd prefer a design with a longer chamber though so the fan has more space
its just one plug. Not worth it. if it broke I'd just toss it with all the other ones that I cant get open to try and flash if tehy even have ESP in them
anyone know a good cheap air quality sensor? My Ecobee says i have shitty air quality no matter what I do
when my VOCs were 999,999 and now when its like 100k
i cant figure out if i actually have air thats bad or if the sensor is crap
That's too many VOCs
you think i can trust the sensor?
even when the windows are open flushing the house it says poor
If you're not dead while it's showing that you shouldn't
