#the-water-cooler
1 messages · Page 75 of 1
don't you mean you transferred HA from a proper server to something that broke it?
I'll blame hacs
i wonder how long my intel cpu will last given that it runs HA now
... and HACS of course
your rpi died?
I have never had a single one of those things die on me and i still keep the first rpi b in service
yes. sudden death
I didn't even touch it, its encased in a cooling aluminum block
I have another dead rpi2 laying around, that one lights up the leds still but constant lights so its also dead
you prone to spikes in your grid?
nope
it wasn't plugged in
I powered it down, unplugged it. Had everything running on my x86
few days later I plug it back in and... nothing
I suspect running these things at 70-80° constantly will eventually kill them
dunno, i've read posts from others who use them on the road baking inside a vehicle for years without issue
think you just had some bad luck
I can try feeding the power via gpio
but yeah, it did its job fine. got it for original price so 🤷♂️
how the hell did you have it running constajntly throttled in a passive cooling case?
hell my rpi3 in a passive cooling case in 100+F degree weather barley hits 60c
very heavy use of gpu & cpu will get you that
and you didn't once stop and think.. wait.. maybe i need a fan?
i mean it throttles around 75c as is
to the higher the temp the more it throttles back to intentionally keep itself from nuking
ambient was 24°
as I said, that thing worked hard
another one right beside it, still running fine
these outside right?
and another pi3 which gets up to 90°, just not in this week
the pi4's were inside, the pi3 is outside
i take it back, you don't have bad luck. you got karma
nah
the pi3 a camera or something? why would it be hitting 90c?
direct sunlight, think you said that before lol
yes, pi cam and sunlight
karma
but its laying in stones, so idc if it goes up in flames
Why you texting and driving
I guess my server counts as "outside", sorta?
Due to having a house with almost no spaces inside where I could put a rack, I bought an IP54-rated (weather-sealed, but ventilated) rack and put it under the house.
Xeon D-2146NT (8C, 80W), Supermicro 5019D-FN8TP
shaded is not the same as sun baking tho
if his was shaded I would feel bad for him, but you cn tell he don't care so one of his inside more expensive pi's was sacraficed to the God's
You kiwis are weird across the ditch 😛
very nicely wrapped up, appreciated
Just playing the hand I was dealt. The cabinet is actually quite nice: https://dynamix.co.nz/rodw12-600fk
I considered putting servers in my crawlspace but decided against it because the access down there kind of sucks.
i must have uncanny timing when checking my dashboard cause I always see a new release of HA available before the blog is updated to state what was changed
not complaining, just noticing my timing always being that
He lives in a sauna
why does the zigbee mesh keep changing paths? I am not experienced enough to fully understand zigbee yet but I would see everything working with high lqi numbers one time then all the paths change with low lqi
i don't understand that
in general the map/lqi values can be false positives and negatives
well if things go unavailable they're either out of reach or your mesh is doomed
i have one that is 21 and connected
I just noticed the zigbee channel was 15.. i wonder if it's interference
could have swore it was set to channel 25
just change it 😉
tempted, but looking at this remotely and i doubt all the devices would change on thier own
atleast according to some of the stuff i read
hint: don't!
the only zigbee world where this works is hue, with proprietary and secondary channel scanning in the routers
when you change, do you have to like repair all of them? or would a power cycle work?
repair, all of them
ugh
I mean it is basiaclly the national sport of both countries
Car drives itself
No the car drives you
If only you had a domesticated raccoon who could pop down and sort them, with popcorn as payment...
Still doesn't change it being illegal and just bad practice
Not near me that I can tell
Tinkerer if i promise to be super careful and not to ping you with any replies, could i pick your brain a little more on rclone. I am by no means (as if you havent been able to tell) a linux expert. What folders should i be looking to backup to get as much of a backup as possible?
Sure
Just that socket makes me wonder what they dis to this poor thing
Dropped something on it I bet
I'm sure eBay will refund if you say it's broken
Back-of-the-truck special that the truck backed over
Will probably be a easy not as described win
poke it with a screwdriver perhaps
I bet the seller is the type who go to the junkyard and get el equipment. I seen many of them lurking around, then sell on ebay. He agreed to refund without getting ebay involved so I assume its not his first rodeo
any of you guys mess with one of these before?
it's a tuya thing but paired right up with zigbee
tuya zigbee is 🆗
yea everything else was junk. least from the few things i had tried
528 threads and 8 cores
You have to chuckle a bit at
This program is looking to build a graph analytics processor with a novel architecture that can process data at lightning speeds without consuming excessive levels of power
shortly followed by
The thinking is to stitch 16 of the prototype chips together in a single Open Computer Project server in a sled form factor, with up to 10,000 sleds combined to unleash its full potential for the use case it was designed for.
I mean I work in HPC-adjacent industry, so I can confidently say that using the phrase "excessive levels of power" might have a vastly different connotation for the layman reading the article.
"Oh not excessive power. There'll be 16,000 of them, though. No biggie"
Is this intel actually innovating or just panicking because they are being left in the dust by the competition?
Supermegaultrahyperthreading
Thundercougarfalconbird
Risc is the superior architecture and itanium is officially dead, time to redesign
Cozy?
Oh ZFS gurus. is it any best practise for this settings? I think I can cli in more settings if something is important to add
What are you storing?
depends. its seperated in different datasets. but in general one is for surveilance videoes, one for downloads and media and one for data like nextcloud images etc
So things to note (I'm using the underlying properties names here):
atimeis also affected by another settingrelatime(behaves much the same as on other Unix filesystems, butrelatimeis a modifier, not a toggle in and of itself)recordsizeis a maximum, not a hard allocation size; ie the largest possible block size (but a smaller file can have smaller blocks, in power-of-2 increments down I think 4k)compressis a bit finicky, as ZFS has a "short circuit" for compression, whereby if the first X MB of the file doesn't achieve some threshold of compression (10%, I think it might be), it just bails out and doesn't bother compressing it at all.
So for big files (media/downloads), you'll get best space efficiency with largest block size. Anything "interactive" (say a VM filesystem) you want to keep the block size small to reduce write amplification. Atime really doesn't matter for most of these applications, but if you can enable relatime on the CLI it doesn't have much of a performance imact.
Also as well as quota there's another parameter called reservation which is a space guarantee; the dataset consumes that space whether there is data in it or not. If you've got something that could break if the filesystem gets filled to capacity, can avoid that by ensuring it has a guaranteed minimum of space available.
Okay maybe smart TVs aren't that bad
Especially if I have it on a network without internet access
Like I currently do
@clear ferry the other we were talking about Unraid… I have some old HDDs I’m replacing with new HDDs.
If I’m installing Unraid and setting up my new HDDs, and have my old ones still plugged in, will I be able to copy the data off of them?
Believe they’re currently NTFS or whatever windows default is
7nm lol
For what?
For that intel megahypercpu
arent we at like 3nm now?
Never used unraid, believe you can add and remove drives from the pool any time by moving data
Also, remember to have large parity drives
Your parity drive size defines max disk size
So if you have a 10TB parity drive you can't add a 12TB data disk
Why u still so expensive wifi 7?
Just do 200G slingshot
No. I‘m a consumer, respect my wish you corporate devil!
Ok, then buy cheap 56G IB stuff and run ethernet over ib
Bird beats Internet. Or does it? It hasn't been tested since 2009!
Thanks to 45Drives for paying for my flight to Canada. You can check them out here: https://www.45drives.com
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Working as I do for a company that's still big on tapes, the old adage still holds true
sometimes I hate to do business with chinese factories. the language barrier is so huge, even if I speak chinese decently
its this culture in asia were everything is a yes, even if they have no idea
power distance is stronk in asia
Tapes are actually gaining in popularity these days.
If you're already on tape storage for backup and archival purposes, you're on the bleeding edge.
I opened up the UPS I have that is SO noisy its like a jetplane. As its an online UPS the fans runs on 100%, but to my huge suprise it was just two tiny 12v 80mm fans in it. How can those two create SO much sound I have no idea
Mostly health and state stuff that still use tape actively here, the ones that don't have strict rules just use virtual tape or d2d
is it any very quiet, but high volume fans out there that is not noctura?
Oil and gas also use tape to transport geo data from boats to land
I mis the old papst fans
Papst, now that's a name I haven't heard in a while
modern fans are pretty great compared to what we had 20 years ago and constantly getting better. Also alot more expensive though
papst was great fans for the time! they moved a lot of air
any suggestions for quiet high air movers?
I've never had to use those types of fans fortunately so I don't know
It almost a but suprising this was in it. What is that plug called again? It looks for me that its a controllable fan?
the thin one was in the front, the thick one provided air to the whole UPS
and this is a 800USD ups!
asking what the connector is called or what a pwm fan is?
fans can be controlled with just two wires. The third on is likely a RPM meter. PWM fans have four wires
true actually yeah, the connector is four-pin though, right?
it's 3 pin
🤔
dell case fans love the 3 pin
I'm pretty sure all of mine are 4-pin and 4-wires but There might be different designs. You only need two to run and control a fan
yeah, I think the RPM meter is important as the UPS wont run if it doesnt detect RPM
I dont know what its treshhold is tough, or if I have to fake the rpm with an esp
controlled via voltage on the 3rd pin.
not fun trying to find a replacement for dell bs
PWM fans for PC use are all 4-pin (12v, ground, tachometer, PWM)
3-pin fans only have 12v, ground, and tach.
Jst
3-pin fans can still be speed controlled by variable voltage control, and some of them will tolerate having 12v rapidly pulsed via PWM.
Shouldn't all fans be fine with pulsating 12V? I'm not sure if this sort of control is used anywhere though. With voltage control you don't often get to less than 50% speeds
I would say try telling that to dell. BUT, maybe through the tach the dell MB ups the voltage to increase the RPM based on mb temps i dunno
I've read it was some thermal voltage thing
likely some form of a JST connector
Nah, a lot of fans will just stop spinning (vibrate in place and make a buzzing sound) if you try to pulse their 12v input at PWM frequencies
You have to have a very, VERY long duty cycle to keep them from freaking out
Oh interesting so they just can't get past the next magnet then
I've run into this on 3D printers, which tend to use 2-pin (12v and ground) fans, and pulse 12v to speed control them. Only specific 2-pin fans will handle it gracefully. I'm not sure what makes the difference.
I wonder how many can be started up on constant 12V and then kept running via PWM, but not started with PWM
Maybe just having enough internal capacitance to internally average the square wave it's being fed?
I've seen that, but usually those only work with a PWM duty cycle of 80% or more.
Go below 80%, even when it's already spinning, and they lock up and vibrate in place
The fan control software I run on my PC has looks for the start and stop values for the PWM fans which is pretty neat. For example my case fans only spin up at 48% PWM but keep spinning until they reach 10%
maybe easiest to just get a regular fan, and reuse the plugs
24v*
Nope, 12v for the fans...
Plenty of 24v printers include a buck converter or separate 12v power supply to run 12v accessories.
12v fans are a lot easier to source in a large variety of configurations than 24v fans.
The only things that run at 24v on my current printer are the heated bed, and the hotend. Everything else is 12v or 5v
what printer?
every ender, knockoff ender, and other printer i've ever seen use 24v
or use buck converters manually to put different fans on them
Mine is a custom build
But regardless, having multiple voltage rails is very common
A lot of printer mainboards now include buck converters so you can run 12v fans off their integrated fan headers, regardless of PSU voltage.
Noctua actually just released the NA-VC1, which is an inline 24v->12v converter, explicitly created to allow using their entire range of 12v fans on 24v equipment.
24v fans are a thing, but a lot of the industry is trying real hard not to require them.
My network rack at home is using 24V Noctua fans 🙂
It's because being the horrible person I am, I chose to use an 802.3af to 24V PoE converter to run them from my switch.
Also @subtle pasture per the conversation about tape, work uses one of these: https://spectralogic.com/products/tape-storage/tfinity-exascale/
Suffice to say, we're into tape in a BIG way 😄
That does seem like a lot. USD$25 on amazon.com too, so that's not just a pricing anomaly
I was expecting it'd be more like $9 / €10 kinda price
Same. I know it's really small but still you can get a bunch of buck converters for the same price
I think the extra cost comes from the fact that it does both PWM passthrough and voltage-control passthrough, and the fact that it has every electrical certification known to man.
e.g. varying the input voltage also varies the output voltage, for devices that don't use PWM for speed control
A standard buck converter does the opposite, and tries to maintain the designated output voltage over a wide range of input voltages
PoE controlled fans for a rack? so you have them ramp up on temperature of the room or something?
On the up side, it supports up to 9w of load, so it's possible to run several fans off one converter.
Yes, but in a much more horrible way than you're probably thinking.
The rack I bought had two 230VAC fans with a simple bi-metal thermostat. Those fans were WAAAY too loud, hence the 24VDC replacement.
I kept the thermostat, but made a circuit that uses a DPDT relay to switch the fans from being wired in parallel to series when the thermostat turns on the relay.
So on low the fans are seeing 12V each, which Noctua say will run the 3000rpm "NF-F12 iPPC-24V-3000" at around 1600rpm. Draws around 4W total.
Relay closes, both fans get the full 24V, draws around 9W.
That's pretty neat I guess but why not offer a simpler option without the voltage modulation? PWM is the standard in most applications where Noctua fans are used?
noctua arent designed to work well for 3d printers anyways
when used people have heat creep (unstable temps)
They used the wrong fan. That's not on Noctua. Lol
well they used a fan not designed for it, and it happens to be noctua
Yeah fan is a fan. You just need to pick the correct type
And the voltage converter explicitly mentions 3D printers several times in its brochure
how much do you spend a month on drugs?
Noctua also has a 24v native 40mm fan on their roadmap, also explicitly for printers, so there's that.
Use the right fan for the job.
that's been on the roadmap for like 2 years
it's been a while since i read up on it but 5015 part cooling fans are still the way to go
Yeah, the voltage converter kinda solves the problem in and of itself. I'm curious if they'll bother with the 24v fans now.
I mean it's a fair question, but none. These kind of nonsense projects are my outlet
Fan half of that circuit just goes like this, btw:
i was thinking about adding some pwm-pst fans from my server's cpu fan pin headers and using those to push hot air out of my little "network closet"
instead i bought a $15 walmart fan and poked a big hole for it to just blow hot air out
it would be nice to automate it and use quieter fans tho
Fun fact: I learned first-hand that it's possible to have the opposite of heat creep... put a 40x28mm fan on my hotend and let 'er rip.
Inlet vent and top one has the fan behind it
Froze the filament solid inside the hotend. Lol
I was playing around with high-temp filament and was ruling out heat creep as an issue.
I did some surgery on this one last week
i have a little 5 printer farm with cheap enders
That's a fancy one
hasnt that been your project printer for like 2 years
i remember seeing it a long time ago
e'yup
i dont even enjoy 3d printing as a hobby really.. it's like a side-hobby or a hobby for when i'm bored with other hobbies
It's a tool in the toolbox, usually
Occasionally the printer itself becomes a project, but Ideally it's ready to run.
ideally i'd have one dedicated to each specific material
but i mostly just print PLA.. i have one PETG only all metal hot end setup tho
3d printer sounds cooler as an idea than it seems to be in reality, but that's probably because my lack of creativity and ability lol
I still want an IDEX printer so I can use PLA supports for PET/Nylon prints
PET and Nylon don't stick to PLA at all, so you can do as much support material as you want
You can also do PETG supports for PLA prints, but it's pretty rare that I want to print PLA...
fancy
New photo. Some things have changed.
New hotend, webcam, and a filament dryer that I need to bolt to the side in place if the open-air spool holder at some point.
most people that go full retard and build vorons etc do it cuz they like tinkering with hardware... not the actual printing.. at least from what i've seen
"Grass Green" PETG is currently loaded because I was printing some Ryobi accessories 👍
it's like a beaver after they hear running water - oh fuck no - gotta build
i got one to make esp cases and stuff and ended up making mostly stuff to give away
Is that some kind of insulation/dampening below the bed there Leapo?
It's a sheet of cork to insulate the leveling frame from the heated bed, lol
isnt that flammable?
Cork? Naturally flame retardant
The leveling frame is printed in PETG. I regularly run the bed at 90c or hotter, and the frame is fine.
Cork's flashpoint is above 300c. This bed isn't capable of getting that hot. Lol
oh I see that's why you need the insulation
Those are some famous last words, right there.
It's not capable of it under normal operation... until the MOSFET driving it fails closed circuit and you find out just how many amps the PSU is capable of dumping into the bed before its thermal overload trips
Lemme see if I can find a good picture of an ex-MOSFET 😄
It also helps the bed heat up faster by trapping heat, so I'd probably have it there either way.
Not a 3D printer, but this motor control board let the magic smoke out in a fairly epic manner
No, it's literally not capable of it at 100% duty cycle. About the hottest it can get is 170c if you let it heat up for over an hour.
The resistance of the load goes up with temperature, which makes the whole thing inherently self-limiting.
You'd have to dump more voltage into it to get it hotter.
A lot of this however points to why I'm quite happy only owning a resin printer.
Ventilating the place for stinky resin is a piece of cake, and - safety issues or not aside - nothing has to get above about 35°C anyway.
I've seen resin printers melt components before
Those UV sources they use get HOT
And my FDM printers don't come with the risk of blindness if eye protection isn't used near an open vat 😛
I've got a Formlabs printer, uses a laser rather than LEDs
Nothing about resin printers is healthy of safe
Fuck everything about resin lol
The amount of precautions needed to not poison yourself is high
It's not just the resin. Cleaning the prints for final curing can also poison you. lol
Being around a giant tub of 99% isopropyl isn't fun
And best case you have a vat of liquid poison you can’t put down a drain and you pump very harmful VOCs into the environment
(I own two resin printers, for reference)
They live in a grow tent with a high-CFM inline duct fan that blows directly through a dryer vent in the wall do the outside.
It's basically a nylon fume hood, at this point
Ya but then you’re just polluting
Not great
The carbon filter helps a bit, at least
Some people claim to be able to vent back into the room when using a carbon filter, but I've never felt safe doing that
That’s 100% not safe
Maybe with industrial hepa filter setup but nothing at a home
Same people spew bs about PLA and PETG being safe to print and completely ignore microplastics as well
I have all mine in a room on their own with no return vent and wear an n95 mask when they’re going. If I don’t, I get a headache within 10min of being in there
ABS is the only thing that has actively given me a headache
And I ltierally never print ABS, because it's a pain in the ass compared to literally everything else
I’ve heard to just go straight to ASA which is even more toxic
But much simpler to print
ASA is also UV resistant, which ABS isn't
Yea
But so it PET and PETG, which is easier to print than ABS and ASA
There’s a guy in octofarm discord who sells yeti cooler accessories printed in PETG and they survive in the Florida sun
Which is strange to me cuz most people say petg can’t handle outside temps like that
Yeah, PETG does just fine outdoors
But he’s found a specific supplier that provides consistent spools
And tests his own stuff for months before sales
PETG doesn't begin to soften until 85c / 185f, so it's pretty damn safe to use outdoors in all climates
Even in Arizona, where people were recently getting 3rd degree burns off pavement and doorknobs due to a heat wave, black asphalt baking in the sun only got up to between 170 and 180 degrees
And you can get even more temperature resistance by printing PET rather than PETG 😛
it's been suggested to me that each manufacturer is different and to get results from third party lab tests from the company selling the PETG etc
This is true. The percentage of glycol in the polymer has a big impact on the print temperature and temperature resistance.
Adding more glycol makes it easier to print on low-end printers with PTFE-lined hotends, which can't get up to the temperatures required to print plain bottle-grade PET
i always cringe at people printing anything off stock creality ptfe tubes but especially PETG and ABS
the non capricorn tubes offgas at something like 215C i think..
nothing like a little aerosolized teflon
I'm honestly not sure why all hotends aren't all-metal, at this point
I'm only using a Capricorn tube for the assurances on inner diameter, it doesn't get anywhere near the melt zone.
idk
even capricorn seems to cook.. i just cleaned one that i ONLY print at 215C and it still had burn marks on the end
melt-zone related shit
issues with retraction on non-bowden setups too
direct drive isnt automatically better for all the things unless it's like a core xy where you dont even notice that weight
Nice setup
i disagree
it's a shit setup but best i could do with the $ i had
each printer is sitting on a table/whatever i found sitting at the curb walking my dog over a few months period lol
i like the hass integration tho
i think the dash could be better but it's decent
i have smart plugs on each printer but kind of dont want to make it super easy to turn off a printer 10 hours in so no toggles on the dash for those
Been there done that.
Although don't print anything anymore. Those days are long gone for me.
i literally only print stuff to give away at this point
That was the tail end of my 3d printing story. Had like 8. Just keeping 1, just in case
Might ebay that as well soon
if i had $ to just play i'd have a bambu labs one but the cloud only made by a chinese company part is kinda.. uhh.. a deal breaker
but it would be nice to be one of the cool kids
I get most of my models done CNC in China if it's worthwhile. Very seldom though. Most are on Amazon or on Etsy
models?
i have all my printers on there if someone wants to print 500 of something or w/e
Doing it in China CNC is cheaper for me since I own the shop 😃
Dewalt cordless drills and Jeep memorabilia. That's all they want
i dont get it
They are hell bent on anything Jeep.
Lol, strange for me too. But they love it.
And Dewalt or Japanese tools.
Japanese torx driver bit goes long way in China 😃
See I just don't care about that part
If the company wants to see what models I'm printing I don't care, I'm only printing stuff from online lol
fuck that logic
"i've got nothing to hide, spank me daddy"
that's the same logic boomers had/have that got us to the shitshow we live in now
also as a FOSS connoisseur it just feels wrong to buy into a closed ecosystem like that
Its also the benefits of how well it just works outweigh anything else to me
I can just click print and it'll print with no issues, no need to troubleshoot, etc
Its great
That’s how I feel about 4/5 of my printers
5th I’ve been lazy but know what it needs
Are you a part of MGM 🤣
this is a crazy guy
Heh, I just bought a new 3D printer to replace my ender 3.
Only HA integration I ever did with my printer was a ping sensor to control the lights on it
Nah, I still have it. It's just really slow.
The one I got should print 6x-10x faster and can switch between four filament spools mid print
Ah the china cloud Bambu
Pretty much, it seems like they more or less work offline now too. I was going to throw it on a separate vlan with no internet.
It can't possibly be worse than this Ender 3.
The ender is pretty rad if you pair it with octoprint
Jneil who makes a lot of octoprint plug-ins got a Bambu working over mqtt
I’m not sure of his current progress on it yet
Iirc no camera
I’ll ask him tomorrow and tag you
I’ve done that times five
Tag me too pls
Supposedly their slicer will work without internet with it too, I was going to lock it down to just local lan requests
I have esp3d set up with my ender 3
And still copy prints to an SD card for it
5 printer one pi? 
No five pi
How's failure rate going for you
Over wireless cuz I’m lazy and I gotta walk between beams above second floor in attic
Rich
Octoprint didn't add enough to be worthwhile to me when I tried it
Of the printer stuff
My only failures are self inflicted
My main failures on my ender 3 are due to nozzle clogs anymore
Like slicing failure
I have to clean my nozzle every 20 prints or so
I got to break the heater twice
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NW2B8GB copper plated nozzle dude
best of both worlds - doesnt fuck with thermal changes like hardened steel, isn't soft like brass
It's a bit sad they don't allow you to override the temperature limits
i have that on all 5 printers
?
You gotta recompile and flash the system new if you want to make adjustments
So no easy upgrade for a stronger heater
Oh, it's nickel plated copper
i just call them copper plated idk
i also use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D9CNHVN extruders on each printer but apparently bondtech lgx / lgx lite / knock offs are better
I have a BTT SKR mini e3 v3 and a BTT touchscreen on mine but I still have the stock creality hotend
with a 3d printed shroud/bl touch/direct drive extruder
i still dont have any printers with DD
i've been thinking about moving my ender5+ to it tho
I had to add a second Z axis for it but that was pretty easy
It'd slip with just one
gl hf without one
4/5 of my printers have one z lead screw and i have great results lol
You just said you don't have direct drive
The direct drive mounts the extruder motor on the gantry, it like 5x's the weight of it.
#the-water-cooler message all my printers are here
The additional weight shouldn't really matter, if set up properly you hardly push it down by hand
I kept hitting issues with my Z axis moving unevenly and binding before I added the second Z motor.
I had to bend the roller mount slightly to get it to be level with the bed but that seems fairly acceptable for a 250 buck device
it's that little copper or w/e mount the z rod is slid into
It'd bind and not move up for a few steps and knock prints loose or I'd get really thick layers and short prints
if that is screwed in too tight it will bind the z rod
sometimes the printers just ship with really fucked z rods tho.. maybe you got unlucky
it's prob worth buying a good one to see
Also grease™️
if your printer is like super old 4-5+ years old i'd expect it to be worse
creality has come a long way
The brass bearings at the top the z rod sticks through? they don't thread into those, those are just supports
tbh that's more noise than it is actual binding
you'd be surprised
i'm too lazy but you can find guides saying tweak them
they're literally able to freely move inside those collars.
I don't expect z to move thaaaat much during a print compared to everything else 😄
one step closer to finding out..
What would have been nice for those printers would be better cable routing through one of the pillars instead of at a random place in the back
no the issue is if the rod isnt straight then when the little holder at the top is screwed down it makes z bind and it fucks up all the things
I mean, sure, a PTFE-lined hotend might work slightly better for PLA, TPU, and high-glycol PETG, but anything else is going to need higher temps than PTFE can handle.
so the workaround is usually just to leave the screws super loose
It's just a ball bearing at the top
I usually print my preferred PETG at like 270c
So even that's a no-go on PTFE-lined
on ender 3? it's a cheap piece of metal there are no bearings
250 here iirc
inland PETG+
I've replaced almost all the cables on mine. Had a wire in my extruder cable break at the connector, replaced my Z axis cable when I did the dual Z, removed my z limiter in favor of a touch probe, replaced the lcd cable, replaced the power cables from the psu, replaced the X motor cable because a wire got ripped out of it I've replaced all the fans. So my Y motor and X,Y limiter switches are the only original cables on my printer.
Mine's all Overture PETG, which seems to be light on glycol.
Inland and Hatchbox would burn at the temperatures I print this at. lol
The Z rod would have to be so crazily bent for that to be a concern
No idea how this showed up then but maybe it was part of the bundle I got...
Like, idk how you'd do that even
this is my lil fleet
Mine has bearings like that, too.
thought we were talking about what they shipped with man
We get it, you have many printers.
do you get it?
I mean it did effectively ship with the initial box order of the printer
My Ender 3 is one of the original Ender 3's, from around late 2018 or early 2019.
I got one later on
I love it since I figured out you gotta actually preheat it for a while
i'm still not sure what i like more
my glass carborendum beds work great
but i have one using smooth pei and another using textured pei and i like both of those too
I wouldn't mind having a non-glass bed for PETG, taping it off is a little annoying
I rammed the hotend into my stock bed like the first weekend I had it and ruined it
Left like a 4" gouge and it never sat flat again
🥲
I'm pretty excited to be able to try support filaments with the new printer I have coming in
Do you guys use glue on the beds?
problem is most people (due to creality and other brands giving shitty advice) dont understand bed tramming vs bed leveling
and fuck up their beds right after buying
Yea, I glue by default anymore. I hate wasting time leveling.
i've never used or needed glue
I also got a leveling probe because seriously fuck that noise.
I see that on yt quite often but for me stuff just sticks
abl arent really needed either
first you tram the bed like by using a feeler gauge (like they use for spark plugs on a car)
cuz the paper method idents
Is your goal here to try to tell me that everything I'm doing is wrong?
once you do that, you do a "manual mesh level" which isnt shipped with stock creality firmware
it's literally a bl-touch you do yourself
Yea, I know how to level a bed.
then you save the mesh, then you use the start gcode in your slicer to recall the mesh
you're getting oddly offended dude
i'm talking to the class
Oh the bl touch firmware where it doesn't retract the probe pin and breaks it off on the edge of the bed when doing the pre print lines
You're continually going off on how things should be done because you don't like how I'm doing it. Nobody asked you.
that's an issue with offsets
which also sucks
marlin is really frustrating honestly
it's like the devs expect you to crawl through their docs, which although pretty thorough, are really dry and just too much
basically the "right" or best way to use marlin is to edit c header files and uncomment things you want or need
and as a new person how the hell are you supposed to know what you need
it's weird
go with the defaults then?
i try to use pre-compiled firmware
Though creality's defaults were pretty stupid for my printer
i was using insanity automation's
but he had some drama with the owner of marlin repo
They disabled things like thermal runaway protection on my printer for some reason
so now i think i might switch to that "professional firmware" by mrscos or something? it's basically just a guy who named his fork professional firmware and has some pretty sane-defaults
ya that is often considered super bad - i try to always get people off stock creality fw
All of the features in Marlin are too large to fit on most controllers if they're all enabled and controllers may not have much eeprom for toggling and configuring every single variable, so recompiling for new features/configurations is pretty much required.
also creality ships FW and lies about the actual version so you think you have a newer version of marlin than you actually do
i get it, it's just very not user friendly especially for newcomers
https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/CrealityDwin_2.0 this is what i'm currently using on all 5
just use something like octoprint
octoprint isn't a firmware
we're talking about what is flashed to the MCU of the printer
octoprint would be a PC program controlling marlin on the printer
i haven't been following along so.. just saw some comment about limitations using marlin
They probably would fix it if people actually cared
But for around 300 bucks, ya just expect it to be a bit yoinky from time to time
I've hit thermal runaway on my Ender 3 a few times. I replaced the cooling fan with a blower fan from a projector and it can easily overwhelm the extruder and cause a runaway.
I generally run it at 25% during prints
You need it on the firmware but that is nice on octoprint with plug-ins that auto turn it off too
Like better heater timeout iirc
thermal runaway = the printer is dumping more and more power into the hotend but the hotend isn't getting hot enough so to get to temp it'd have to overload the power circuit on the mobo
that issue has been fixed eons ago
Well it might be getting hot enough.. but the thermistor isn’t accurately reporting temps
must be an old ender 3
I have one of the original Ender 3's.
That also trips when the heater or sensor is generally faulty
Well you said you have a new board
Which is a bit weird as it runs out of spec but doesn't reach any temp
I had the counterfeit power connectors, tinned power wires and all
@hollow glacier helllo
I have a new board now but I used the stock E3 board for a couple years
I did reflash the firmware on it though
originals were shit and not just cause of the infancy of marlin
It's USB->UART interface was configured at too low of a baud rate to actually accept a 3D print over USB
anything under 4.X has the net littered with horror stories
My two were $99 specials
Can’t beat that
Yea at that point even the alu profiles are worth the cost
And they came with a coupon for $5 off filament
mine was 99 too lol
So Octoprint was basically entirely useless on my Ender 3 until I got the SKR board, and now I don't really care, I'm fine using the touchscreen.
but i did replace the board with a 30 buck one
The original ender 3 was really loud too.
They ship with silent steppers now
The fans do still be loud
The decrease in noise was my main motivator to get an skr mini e3 v3
They always will
octoprint is just nice for sending/starting new g code
Why exactly can't we turn them off completely
the fan noise isn't high pitched and piercing like the stock motor config was
I put an esp8266 on my ender 3 with esp3d on it. I still use sd cards to copy files to it because the 8266 takes like 10 minutes per megabyte to copy though.
well for ender 3/3pro/3v2 the heatblock fan is wired on 100% of the time. if the printer is on, the fan cooling the heatblock is on
kind of a safety feature
Afaik it's because the heat would creep up the throat to places where it shouldn't be and to cool the filament (sometimes skipped for first x layers), of course.
Your extruder fan should be on whenever the extruder is above a certain temperature
there's a part cooling fan (or fans, but not on stock enders) and the fan that regulates the temp of the actual hotend
Yea, my e3 had a fan that blew directly on the hotend and one that blew down over the nozzle to cool the print as it extruded
Both fans died quickly
they all have that
I had to replace all the fans on my E3. None of them were spinning right.
Like 50rpm instead of 2000 rpm
i need to blow the dust off mine cause i got a new doorbell to make a wedge for
I hope at some point I will be able to afford one of those X1 carbon ones
Or the new model they have comming
They seem nice with that enclosure and optional multi color stuff
I went with the P1S and the AMS filament switcher
The X1 Carbon didn't have enough over the P1S to sell me on it
those multi color spool things like the bamboo can be a real pain from the stuff i've seen and read
p1s is p1p with an enclosure and some air filters basically
I effectively would just use it to not run out of printing material when the spool ends
The Bambu Lab P1P to P1S Upgrade Kit contains all you need to upgrade your P1P 3D printer to a P1S 3D printer (excluding the Bambu Textured PEI Plate). Enclosing the P1P 3D printer with the Bambu Lab glass cover plate, front glass door, left/right plastic panels, rear metal panel, front cover, and activated carbon air filter will enable high-tem...
Usually the last couple dozen turns are waste
I want the multi-spool support so I can use support materials that are easier to remove
pva or the brittle pla meant to be used as support structures
I suspect I'm not going to find the waste worth it on most prints though and will only do that for more decorative prints
From what I was seeing it's pretty easy for filament switching to purge more filament when switching than the actual print takes in material
sounds like an opening to more wasted filament
lots of yt videos showcaseing failed prints due to color swapping
A little bit of wasted filament doesn't bother me but >50% going to waste is excessive
Oh, I'm talking about the waste on a successful print
I also won't be able to print TPU through it like I can on my Ender 3
why are youtube live streams not available in 480p ?
eh, its just this particular stream I watch rn
weird
if it's older your lucky it wasn't locked at 240
Or just corrupt
Guys I'm confused. Which docker components do I need to run docker compose? Docker CLI + docker compose or is docker compose itself enough?
Because now there's a new thing called "docker desktop" and whatnot and it gets really confusing. So if I only want to have a compose file to spin up docker containers, is installing "docker compose" enough?
No
That's a plugin for docker mostly
Desktop may be very different depending on the os
docker-ce docker-ce-cli containerd.io docker-buildx-plugin docker-compose-plugin is what their documentation says
Id expect the buildx to be optional here
So for running home assistant for instance, I'd need to install docker core + docker compose
Correct?
If all I do is run prebuilt images downloaded from a dockerhub
K. Will install these. Thanks
https://get.docker.com/
is all you need
I intend to run it in a commercial environment
And as far as I know
Docker-desktop is paid in commercial
But its components by themselves in community edition are not
they are
This is what I emailed my colleague
Paid?
Podman does work quite well as alternative nowadays
if you don't want to pay use alternatives
Hmm
it's not about me not wanting to pay. The company doesn't want to pay
That's why we're moving from TFS to git
It's not really that expensive for the most part compared to what every other license you likely use costs
But then why pay if you can have similar for free
License for docker engine
Looks free to me
So if I check licenses of all the components listed above and all are free for commercial use, is there any reason why using them together wouldn't be free?
Docker Desktop isn't something you'll run on a server
Did the mqtt id/naming change get reverted? The message disappeared somewhere within the last updates
You never run into issues if you never update
@clear ferry new car came today 🤣
The ride is so much better than the old Skoda
Only 49 month wait, not bad not bad
did u update Z2M?
Maybe I really don't remember. Always install all updates
Not sure if the naming stuff now won't matter again or if just the notification us missing
Speaking of 3D printing...
https://apple.news/AnXQxMSHfQTqohuhLi4GRSQ
3D printed chicken nuggets are just pink blobs
Will all coons fit in there?
aren't chicken nuggets already pretty much 3d printed lol
Extruded, I think. And the ones from McDonald's come in four shapes!
I know, and the boot is my favorite
A little rubbery. I like the crunchniess of the bone
im a weirdo tho, I like honey mustard dipping sauce
I decided that I was really hungry some time back in college and got the 20 piece nugget meal. Some were...less than cooked through...and I don't think I've eaten their nuggets since
Luckily there is no chicken in it so it's not deadly 
my goto at mcd's is a chicken mac meal with a 20pc nugget box on the side
the food version of a Canadian tux
Sounds awesome.
Any experts on vent systems here? I found the fan on the top left side is broken. I think they charge like 1000usd for one original. dunno if it exist copies
What is power in Sweden like now @last cedar ? So far 1000kwh this month and 74NOK
That looks like the same system my father has @late gate
its a villavent, quite common
but I have struggled with so warm air here, but no wonder when its a pressure based house and the fan doesnt work
this is from 2007, but its beaten up
idk if I can even find parts without using a ton of money. I just wish it was the model over as that got modbus
Similar to this one I guess
I got this on Mastodon but worth repeating...
Fun fact about Microsoft Windows: if you type Ctrl-Shift-Alt-Win-L, LinkedIn will open in your default browser. This is an OS hotkey that cannot be turned off.
I know this reads like a joke but it isn't.
1192
236
that's like what, USD$400
when I checked this morning it wasn't
7,400.00 Norwegian Kroner =
687.30017 US Dollars
that's more like it
696 USD to be precise
1 NOK = 0.0928784 USD
I think I am in luck. This one is the same model number as the old fan. It seems like I can just change the fan, and keep the housing: https://ventdel.no/produkt/reservedeler/systemair-villavent-1/balansert-ventilasjon/vegg-modell/roterende-varmeveksler/vr-serien/vr-300-tk-b/reserve-vifte-r2e-140-af48-18
1700NOK
Bearings and fan yes
If the motor is still working
I took mine like that out and washed it in the shower 4 years ago
Still perfect, as good as new
that one should include the motor
maybe wrong photo as here it say its the full motor: https://boligventilasjon.no/products/systemair-vifte-r2e140-ai28-06
same model numbers though
@midnight adder I have no idea why you're sending me random unsolicited DMs but stop it.
What are the alternatives that is not pfsense or opnsense? I tried them both and im a bit meh. In reality the read difference between them are attitude of the devs, and opnsense is a tad better UI on. I think the only two things pfsense got is the adblocker and TAC lite is free and super fast response rate
but I feel when you run things throught he firewall its really power hungry
and dont say unifi. I like their products, but their firewall is horrible
The Neatgear router I bought I will not use at least. maybe as a fallback, but thats it
@tidal bronze saw a fancy private helicopter fly over earlier. is that what you meant by visiting KC? lol
I have 2 10G cards, and I cant decide which one to use. Any opinions? Intel 10GbE X520-DA2 DUAL SFP+
Vs
Mellanox 10Gb ethernet SFP+ ConnectX-3 Pro
Mellanox uses slightly less power, and doesn't vendor-lock optical SFPs.
Intel probably is supported out of the box in slightly more OSes/configurations.
If you're using DACs, makes very little difference
hmm so which one would you use if you had both?
I'd probably take the Mellanox, but for 10Gb there's basically nothing in it
Perversely, that older X520 is probably slightly better than the later X710 SFP+ NICs. The gap massively widens for 25Gb though; the XXV710 is an absolute shocker, which most people have rightly purged from their memory. You definitely want the Mellanox ConnectX-4 Lx, in that case.
@late gate I have to say I'm pretty tempted to talk to our Palo Alto account manager about their "LAB" SKU VMs ("not for production use", they're a-ok with home use of those).
A sensible home configuration ("Threat Prevention" AV/Malware, URL filtering, DNS filtering, GlobalProtect VPN) per their "credit" licensing (https://www.paloaltonetworks.com/resources/tools/ngfw-credits-estimator) says 14.49 credits, or about $280/year at list price. If you've got an account team and reseller who like you, should be able to shave some off that (I'll definitely have to talk to them to find out how much).
Says you should get ~1.8Gbps on a dual-core VM, which ain't bad.
Real enterprise firewall, and if you're comparing - as you'd be compelled to - to the likes of the UDM-SE ($500), definitely expensive, but I feel like not atrocious value for money for what you're getting by comparison.
How many Software NGFW Credits do you need? This easy-to-use estimating tool will help you understand security based on your needs. Quickly figure out how to flexibly size and procure VM-Series virtual firewalls, CN-Series container firewalls, and cloud-delivered Security Services.
Nah lol
openwrt
You say that, but inserting an active procurve dac in an intel card made it disappear from esxi until reboot 
Yeah, pretty sure both active DACs and AOCs count as optical, for these purposes.
I will amend my statement to passive DACs, but I've deployed thousands of the things and never used an active one, so I assume this is something most people will never encounter
All AOCs are active, DACs are 99% passive in my experience
I've probably deployed around 50-70k, one install in 2012 was 1600 of them, last one I did in 2022 was an add-on and 800, and having done this for 16 years I might have done it more than twice 
But I would say dac vs optical is mostly 25/75 split in optical favour
Mostly hpc is dac, or very small customers, most customers of any notable size is optical
Not every raccoon at the same time, but absolutely all of them, one at once
the filament tube? I agree.. it's hard getting in more than one at a time. Been considering getting a meat mallet to help
@forest edge you would have the be quick, we can overwhelm you, unless it is a massive mallet
talk about a brick lol https://youtu.be/74DyAVa9Xx4?si=C6sKDrXXWZ6_Gkge
The EZVIZ HP7 Door phone smashes my Nest hello doorbell in every category, better picture, wider picture, but most importantly it comes with a video screen, can unlock your door, and is faster than any video doorbell I've tried.
This video is sponsored by EZVIZ, all opinions are my own.
This is a review of the HP7 video doorbell, installation ...
protip: if you dont post that clown's videos then we wont have to see his stupid face
Or we could try to grow up. If I don't like something, I just scroll further.
haard on a slow chat
hibbert is objectively bad for the community spreading a bunch of bs. i am not okay with him convincing noobs to spend money on crap gear and "teaching" them with terrible information just so he can get a cut with his affiliate links.
clown shit
you can't win with that
ah the chep of home automation
weirdly accurate
often entertaining, rarely informative
Eh. He's given me ideas to make better. Always something to learn.
Ngl, fuck most YouTubers
Weird preference :^)
Especially the ones who have a weird o face thumbnail as their video preview
Depends what content you consume
wojak face just seems to be the standard for YouTube thumbnails. It must be that people just click because they want to punch the person
or is it soyjak
:(){ :|:& };:
D:
:ᗡ
whats going on when 2 different hosts reply to a ping for 1 specific hostname?
e.g. I ping esp-cam01.iot
and get
64 bytes from esp-cam02.iot (10.0.45.52): icmp_seq=32 ttl=63 time=2.73 ms
64 bytes from esp-cam02.iot (10.0.45.52): icmp_seq=32 ttl=63 time=2.73 ms
64 bytes from esp-cam01.iot (10.0.45.52): icmp_seq=33 ttl=63 time=1.95 ms
64 bytes from esp-cam01.iot (10.0.45.52): icmp_seq=33 ttl=63 time=1.95 ms
64 bytes from esp-cam02.iot (10.0.45.52): icmp_seq=32 ttl=63 time=2.73 ms
(esp-cam02.iot is 10.0.45.54)
Round robin DNS entries? (edit: reading correctly is hard 🤣)
I've restarted my adguard and unbound, is that a client issue then?
Or are both cams on the same static IP by accident? With multiple DNS entries that should change - and doesn't seem to do 🤔
I think you got a camera with an identity crisis
It is two ESP cams ducks and runs 🤣
both on the same IP. Your DHCP is being dumb
It's always DN—wait
Static IP or dual DNS entries
Which is why I'm curious if it is dual macs
Also, only one responds on either sequence
they both have static dhcp entries, both have their own mac
What Mac does that IP arp to?
huh look at that
arp -a
gives
...
esp-cam02.iot (10.0.45.54) at a8:42:e3:4c:6a:00 on vlan02 expires in 578 seconds [vlan]
esp-cam02.iot (10.0.45.52) at b8:27:eb:eb:09:74 on vlan02 expires in 545 seconds [vlan]
...
the heck
sum switch is confused I believe
after flushing arp in opnsense and clearing all dns everywhere - it works as if nothing ever happened
amazing
ok pebkac
static leases overflowed into dhcp range
opnsense why you don't ring any alarm bells?
I don't think pfsense lets that happen
But then there's this... https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/674164904298676225/958780818262732810/IMG_5836.png
He made a video that was basically "Home Assistant is getting way better", and I commented saying I'm happy he feels we're heading the right direction. Lots of people are puting lots of hard work into making it so.
It was so hard not to reply to this with "HOOOOOOOME ASSISTANT!"
hibbert is a clown. I admit I rather enjoy his skits but all he's one of those people who don't really seem to know what they are talking about
@tidal bronze we got dime sized hail here earlier, you missed out on going outside and doing your gene kelley impression
Meh. At least he's a good reminder that CA-glue is not for eating.
Seriosly. I don't get how he can make entire videos without separating his teeth once.
Just that silent video has encouraged me to avoid him
😆
I'll give him one thing - never seen this guy before, clicked out of morbid curiosity - he can at least speak an entire sentence to camera in one go.
My most hated thing about modern low-attention-span theatre; people who can't put six words in a row without cutting the video four times. It's immensely jarring to watch.
Stupid effects and quality of content aside, that one makes me switch videos off faster than any other
Agree on the cutting mid-sentence. Those few milliseconds of my time that it's saving isn't worth how annoying it sounds
If you speak too slow, I can always just increase the slider until you sound like Ben Shapiro
Do you people have tips on letting go work after work hours
I'm currently at a party, drinking beer, and I'm still responding to Github issues
I am currently upgrading lvm volumes on hpux and fixing vlan mapping on Siemens scalance switches
I don't know what you mean
Lmao
But seriously, I even don't care about work during daytime hours sometimes
My job is my hobby, and my hobby is my job
But I don't obsess over either
Same
If I need to do something else I don't care about work
But I'm now just responding to people over HA over quite too much beers
25 male Utrecht, the Netherlands?
So you are unsure of your country, this is bad I suggest less alcohol
Hehe
In 1885, a technician at Volta laboratories accidentally recorded his reaction to a mechanical failure.
I prefer more modern implementations
anyone want to take a guess at the big announcements today?
Join us on September 17 to look back on ten years of Home Assistant and hear some very special announcements…
No spoilers 😝
HA is being bought out by apple, and will now cost $25/month to operate, and $5/per integration
/s
CAL! You weren't supposed to tell that!!!
so everything will finally work flawlessly between all intergrations, addons etc? noice!
And by the way, it is still not 100% clear Apple gets HA. Musk might still be able to place a better offer - Home Assistant will then be known as HomeX
ooohh maybe we'll get a blue checkmark option for discord and forums then
Healthy system status only with a subscription
Discord? Forums? LOL Those are the frist things to be cancelled.
Thought that would be the GitHub
Why do so many IP cameras come with rtsp issues???? Will throw IP can number 5 in the trash can today (or actually return it to Amazon). Thus far only Reolink has proven to be stable in long run…
No issues with any $20 AliExpress camera I've ever bought
<random Chinese name here>
The non cloud amcrest ones aren't bad
sounds like wifi is involved
Do have a crowded network, but why are only ip cams affected and the ip cams of Reolink not?
luck? the wifi in some cameras is pure shit, but reolink isn't exactly top of the line. I have to run mine on 5g for it to be stable
If a devices connection is not all that strong and you already have a congested network then it's always going to be flaky
Pretty hard to have a crowded network in modern times, modern switches are powerful enough for a lot of traffic
wifi is not that hard to congest these days
i saw there are some really affordable 10+2.5gbe switches comming from over there
any of you have experience with them?
There is a bunch from $70 upwards
but are they any good
They are "good enough"
its like half the price of what a netgear one would cost
👍
Sodola SL-SWTG015AS
YuanLey YS25-0402
The yunaley is pretty good value
MikroTik CRS310-8G+2S+IN
Too
If @forest edge was a raccoon
rcons
What is your thoughts on MSR @finite atlas ?
A molten salt reactor (MSR) is a class of nuclear fission reactor in which the primary nuclear reactor coolant and/or the fuel is a mixture of molten salt with a fissionable material.
Two research MSRs operated in the United States in the mid-20th century. The 1950s Aircraft Reactor Experiment (ARE) was primarily motivated by the technology's c...
My uneducated thoughts are, they appear to be much much safer, but i dont know how viable nuclear power is.
I like it
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@clear ferry I think it's promising and needs a lot more study
I think nuclear fission is currently our most eco-friendly and safest form of green energy
and I am really disappointed with Germany for turning their backs on it
and there's been some advances in fusion recently which is really nice
I really like the idea of decomissioning coal power plants, but keep all the steam turbine infrastructure and stick in a fission reactor to generate the steam
that'd reduce the cost of setting up a new fission reactor, a lot of the cost is the steam turbine system
I will never forget when I was doing training on HPUX servers with a guy from Ukraine, and the instructor remarked "didn't you do this course earlier?" And he replied with "yes, but boss say me no good enough"
haha I remember HPUX
it had an interesting flavor
I accidentally got myself put in charge of my college's DNS server because I caught on to HPUX quicker than any of the IT guys
and BIND
haha "boss say me no good enough"
I still install 4 new ones per year, but it is regressing some
haven't touched HPUX since the late 90s
I was trying to get this Coral TPU USB accelerator working on a Raspberry Pi Zero W
but it appears that pycoral and pytorch require 64 bit processor, I can't even build pytorch from source
yeah
i heard that people can do faster math than a pi
I may have to make the pi zero be my retro arcade brain, and use the 3B+ for the Coral
or haul another old Dell down off the shelf sigh
nah they're all 3rd-7th generation i3 and i5
yeah but unfortunately uses a lot more ⚡ ⚡ ⚡
but it's the next logical step
so far I have tried getting the Coral working in Windows, that worked about as well as you'd expect
I tried getting it to work in WSL2, but it is not capable of passing the USB device through
I tried getting it to work in Hyper-V VM, but it can't pass the USB through
I tried getting it working in vmware workstation VM, it can't pass the USB through
I'm not going to use VirtualBox because 🖕 Oracle 🖕
I tried using it on the pi zero, it doesn't have enough brainz
was going to setup an UnRAID and use a VM on that, but having hardware troubles with the box, I think the motherboard is kaput
so it might be a good idea to pull down another Dell
my server closet is gonna be so full of these damn things 😄
there's already one in there running HA and another running a minecraft server
oh you shush up
i know, but everyone calls it nuclear
and I thought it's tubular 😮
A nuclear hot tubular -
🛁
Docker 4 lyfe, none of that vm nonsense
endangering whales smh
Gag me with a spoon
I just picked up a Shelly Plus 1PM UL with an add-on and temp sensor to control an attic fan. It's my first Shelly device. I've got about 15 devices on ESPHome, mostly ex-Tuya. Opinions requested: Keep Shelly FW and use default HA integration, or switch it to ESPHome?
I keep all my Shelly devices on stock firmware just to have a backdoor through their cloud if my HA server falls over.
Funny, backdoors in their cloud is why most people move away from stock firmwares.
any documentation about the logo change?
What kind of documentation do you mean?
i saw the discord server logo was changed. is it changing anywhere else? if so, are there any relevant links or info you could give me? if not, let me know
i checked there already - looks like it hasn't changed
It just has been announced. The documentation will be adapted later
👀
are any other parts of the frontend changing?
(sorry for being so uninformed, im a bit late to the anniversary stream)
I saw the logo changed, I'm worried
Custom/vanity domains for Nabu Casa accounts, if you consider that part of the frontend design.
Works, BTW. You do need a restart and some propagation delays for DNS. Less than 10 minutes.
At least it didn't change to an Amazon logo 🙂
Hey I just want to say the "Thank you for using HA" ending to the live event video was the most wholesome thing ever.
this logo is..💀
the thing that does it for me is how it feels not aligned
ikr
oh damn all the websites are updated
new font
i am still wondering if the frontend will update to use material 3, a new font, finally merge my sidebar pr, etc
the design website talks about an "animated" and "animated with sound" variant - where are those?
You can rewatch it
i am watching it rn
Ah
looks too chonky on a big screen - idk someone will probably address that
reminds of the home assistant green page
Do you have the link for that?
I'm a fan of the new logo
Very nice
Me as well
idk im kinda scared to raise issues/pull requests on the existing github repos about places where the design could be improved because it sounds like the nabu casa team are already redesigning everything behind closed doors
probably will be resolved with time
also if you guys havent seen it check out this kinda old but still cool frontend concept
Oh that looks cool
Can I just say that
Comes with plug adapters for EU, US, and UK
makes me really irrationally angry.
If you can include those F, A/B and G plugs, you can damn well include a type I as well.
Maybe connect with madalena in DMs?
Or raise the issue in #developers
the devs_frontend channel is dead chat most of the time
i ask stuff, nobody replies for weeks
then bram replies, i quickly reply to them with a ping, and they ghost me again
I don't know much about frontend sadly
I do try to respond to questions I can answer tho
By the way @stoic prawn, nice bait with the "Thanks for using ESPHome" 😂
Is it just me or is this "yet another company simplifying their logo"?
yup
this is a really cool idea tbh
Open source project*
they come at the end of the madelena segment
So, the new logo… (I'm watching the recorded stream right now)
I'm really having trouble not seeing the USB logo there
Yeaup, can't un-see that
I was on the road and I realized I left the office light on, so I tried to shut it off in the HA app on my phone but it errored out
when I got home I found out why -- my father had helpfully noticed the lights on and shut them off at the switch
he can't shut it off the smart way because there's no voice command yet
well there's voice command but you have to do it from the website or the phone app right now
you missed my point...
No no, I got it
Who is this at the end of the announcement video?
JLo
Because us people who use type I in AU/NZ get forgotten all the time lol
Can probably find a generic barrel plug 12v 1a locally at the least
Yeah, just annoying. Definitely not the first time I've seen it, either.
If I was in the market for it, would be buying a PoE splitter anyway 🙂
Yeah I definitely don't want to design behind closed doors. Now that everything for HA10 is announced, time to figure out a more Open Design processes...
No, no ads ever
Then where is the catch. Someone must selling our presence data
How long the tv ran last night
And how many lamps we have
If there's a "catch", I'd say it's that it is a bit more expensive compared to Big Tech hubs, because we don't make money off user data
You make money from developers data then! 😛
And there's no tech support. Not that Google or Alexa provides any 😜
We all know developers aren't users after all
There is for Alexa
i think youre being sarcastic, not sure though
(nabu casa subscriptions help fund home assistant, and madelena created the new logo for free, afaik)
How could this be real thoughts
On that note, while you can add multiple users through amzn homs stuff, only the echo devices will actually be shared, not their smart plugs
That's the new logo? Oof...
The old logo needed some light simplification for sure (it didn't read well at small sizes), but this new one swung way too far in the other direction.
This one is so far removed from the original that the branded hardware looks like it's for a different product entirely >_>
I was going to bring up the much-maligned Cisco logo redesign as a similar example, but being completely honest, I think even that logo managed to remain more recognizable.
I'm having trouble not seeing a home plate (as in baseball) with the new HA logo. lol
