#the-workshop
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Where I can ask about this? I need to solve this as fast as possible.
no I don't think that applies. the question has nothing to do with HA
except for the last sentence, but sure.
you cannot use a light dimmer to control a fan
the part about HS is I have to integrate it with HA
so I am looking controller with HA inegration to control fan speed
and stuck on this
you should just sk for recommended fan controllers that can intergrate into HA rather than what you asked
for anyone using homekit integration, are you setting up each bridge for device type or per room?
neither
1 bridge per house to get things into homekit from homeassistant
1 bridge per device to get something that can only exist in homekit (like the fp2) into home assistant
Except you need an extra one for each special device (e.g. lock) that needs its own bridge.
Yeah I was figuring out how I should organize my devices, wanted to see what everyone else is doing
also true! I forgot because I don't do that.
I've been looking at presence sensors, and the TI IWR6843 seems to be one of the better ones, and the Aqara FP2 uses exactly that one. Anyone know how hard it would be to flash the FP2 with a custom firmware?
(I'm interested in using the FP2 because the official dev boards for the IWR6843 are crazy expensive - 30€ for a single chip is fine but the cheapest dev board would be 166€, so ~70€ for a FP2 would be a bargain)
I've looked at the PCB, and there's an ESP32 controlling the whole thing, and a bunch of test pads, so I would guess that if it's not flashable over USB, at worst I might have to solder to the test pads, but if anyone knows anything, I'd be happy to hear
So try something and let us know how it does.
If you want more info on that, I would search the forum. Lots of people wanting people to tell them what to buy. In the end we all end up with a box of shame of shit that never worked right. It's a rite of passage into a real smart home.
Put this in a search engine of your choice:
site:community.home-assistant.io presence sensors
Also look at Apollo, they have some mmwave stuff new.
@prime canyon
that's the plan. I'm interested in one of the higher fidelity sensors with full 3D tracking capabilities. Most of the results related to home assistant are just a few detection zones to 2D-ish. The Apollo uses an LD2410B, which just has 9 distance gates.
Two of the raw sensors I found are the TI IWR6843 in the FP2 and the Infineon BGT60TR13C in the FP1. Neither return any results for home assistant that I could find.
So I'm not really looking for a finished product, more a development platform, with the high likelihood that it may just gather dust acknowledged :D
I want to turn on the heat in the morning 40 minutes before next alarm on my pnone (as I work shifts and don't get up at a regular time). Lots to find on this and other forums, but the template seems to cause errors when there's no next alarm, anybody a link to the right code or right tutorial on how to achieve this?
that sounds like an #1284980040940912641
not sure where to post this, but here goes -
in my job, i'm assigned tasks within projects, and each task has a bucket of hours i have to log time to every day. so, Project A has Task 1 (with 5 hours remaining) and Task 2 (with 10 hours remaining), Project B has Task 1 (with 0 hours remaining) and Task 2 (with 8 hours remaining). projects stick around for a bit but eventually go away, tasks exist for the current month and then are replaced by new tasks.
i want to be able to display my projects with their associated tasks and how many hours i have left on each task. i can pull all of this from the timesheet platform's rest api, but it requires hitting multiple endpoints and then doing some math to subtract the number of logged hours from the number of total available hours (per task).
my questions are:
- what is the best way to store this data in HA? i was thinking individual sensors per task, and prepending the name of each with the project identifier for easier grouping, but this would likely end up being messy over time as the tasks change every month. maybe one sensor per project, with attributes named for each task with a value of the remaining time? something else?
- what's the best way to even accomplish this? i already have a powershell script that i can use to pull the data from the timesheet platform, so i could theoretically just have that script set the values in HA. i looked at the Rest API integration but it doesn't seem to be well-suited for the task at hand, since i have to call multiple endpoints to get the information needed for each task. it would probably be best as a dedicated integration, but i'm not there yet with Python and this is probably a very specific use case that i'm not sure would be of value to the population at large...
Probably better off in #1284966582375813201
Hmmmm - anyone have any pointers on what to search for when trying to change the backlight mode on some devices via Z2M?
It comes up as per the image, and I want to toggle between 'off' and 'inverted' depending on the time of day
In dev tools, it shows as:
The select.select_option action
is that the same as input_select.select_option?
I'm trying to figure out what action to hit from NodeRed
Oh! Silly me, look further in the list 😄
Almost. input_select.select_option is for the UI helper ones, select.select_option for the select entities of integrations.
then the payload would be something like: { "option": "{payload}" } ?
where msg.payload is off or inverted
I don't use NodeRed. In HA automations it looks like this:
action: select.select_option
target:
entity_id: select.entityname
data:
option: whatever
ah - perfect 🙂
thankyou sir.
now I can easily set the light switch backlights (ie the ring around the touch switch) to OFF at late at night, so it doesn't light up the room 😄
maybe once I get used to it, I'll just get it to turn off the bedroom ones - so even in a dark house, you can find the damn things hahahah
Or migrate to HA automations 
I have waaaaay too many already in NodeRed to start splitting them 😄
although, if there's a better way in the automations to do this - every hour - I'm interested:
// Consumption rates
var peak = 0.2849;
var offpeak = 0.1958;
var peak_start = 15;
var peak_end = 21;
// Peak is 3pm-9pm.
if ( msg.payload >= peak_start && msg.payload < peak_end ) {
msg.electricity_price = peak;
} else {
msg.electricity_price = offpeak;
}
return msg;
then it sets a new entity configured by NodeRed that contains the electricity price
Looks like a template sensor to me.
If between peak_start and peak_end hours the value is peak, else offpeak - right?
{% set peak = 0.2849 %}
{% set offpeak = 0.1958 %}
{% set peak_start = 15 %}
{% set peak_end = 21 %}
{{ iif( peak_start <= now().hour < peak_end , peak, offpeak) }}
Or shorter:
{{ iif( 15 <= now().hour < 21 , 0.2849, 0.1958) }}
where would I add this?
That could be pasted in a template sensor UI helper.
It could also be enhanced by using input_number helpers, so that the variables could be set from the UI.
that might help - as I'm currently using an hourly cron - but it never triggers on start, so the value is normally null on a HA restart / reload
hmmmmm - I cna't figure out how to make it AUD/kWh like the energy class wants.
oh - it wouldn't let me set "Unit of measurement" to AUD/kWh first time - now it does.
But does it show a value in the preview? I doubt it eith the device class energy set.
That isn't used for prices.
With no device class set and state class measurement it should work.
Yeah - after going back and editing it, it let me set it like this:
the first time, it said it didn't know what AUD/kWh was.
maybe I set something in device / state before without realising.
I would set the state class to measurement. That would show a graph in the entity details.
yeah - it does anyway - but I set it ... just because 😛
while I'm looking at annoying / shit NodeRed stuff, how is HA at handling SSL certs these days?
right now, I'm just doing:
which is dumb, and I hate it - but it works hahahah
it basically reads the ssl cert, runs the Addon for lets encrypt, and then reads the cert again - if they're different, restart nginx
there doesn't seem to be any hooks in the LE Addon, nor is there any smarts in the nginx bits, and last time I looked, HA didn't do auto-cert stuff
The cron and start/restart stuff is simple.
I guess the Folder watcher integration could detect those file modifications.
I mean, Ideally, it'd be good to use something like Caddy - or even have HA understand SSL itself and do the whole ACME thing
that's always been a sore spot for me
The question is: is it worth detecting a change and not just restart NGINX when LE has stopped anyway.
but if HA uses SSL directly, it requires a full restart for an SSL cert change?
Ya know - originally, I had a reason - cos it interrupted something....... but you think I can remember what that was now? 😛
I would use a reverse proxy. That way you don't have problems with local access.
Documenting your own things seems crazy, but it's worth it
Personally I do reverse proxy via Caddy and it works really well
yeah - I'd love to see a Caddy addon in the official store
but I don't really want to roll my own when I'm using the HAOS install method
There is one, not everything can be official—or they'd have too much work to do
Home Assistant Add-on: Caddy 2 Caddy 2 is a powerful, enterprise-ready, open source web server with automatic HTTPS About Caddy simplifies your infrastructure. It takes care of TLS certificate renewals, OCSP stapling, static file serving, reverse proxying, Kubernetes ingress, and more. Link Addon Repository Installation Add the followin...
true, but at the same time - doing SSL properly is really important
Caddy being a 3rd party add-on doesn't make it less good at its job 😉
true, but it means your relying on $randomperson to keep it up to date
Not really, that's not quite how it works. Add-ons are just docker containers with a little magic—and so when the docker image gets updated it's easy to have a GitHub workflow kick off a release which is what einschmidt has done
I know its more setup, but my hacks for nginx + LE are at least official addons, so there should always be someone to keep them up to date
Except for the fact that you're using hacks to stick it together. You can always run Caddy on another machine and update the docker container yourself whenever there's a new release 😉
yeah - but the hacks mean I haven't had to touch it for 2-3 years
lets be honest, I'm never going to keep it updated by hand 😉
and yeah - I could put it on a different machine and just RP it from there, but dammit, I have a public /24 and I wanna use more IPs hahahah
But you are doing something non-standard and you have to have all these hacks running to get it work by rebooting. Personally I'd farm it out to a 3rd party add-on whose maintainer has proven himself trustworthy
yeah, I get that - I did packaging for 20+ years, but at the end of the day, $random will always disappear or go 'eh, I cbf anymore'
or given my age, a lot of the folks are just straight up dying now lol
There's no guarantee that an official add-on won't be discontinued either
And you could always use Nginx proxy manager: https://addons.community/#nginx-proxy-manager
The primary goal of this project is to provide you (as a Home Assistant user) with additional, high quality, add-ons that allow you to take your automated home to the next level.
true, but people would scream murder if nginx & le got retired without an official replacement hahahah
yeah - I already have that enabled
I guess I just kinda figure that something like a turnkey https wrapper should be front and centre, with high priority for what is mostly a web app
turnkey https wrapper
Doesn't Nabu Casa do exactly this for the folk that can't/won't do it themselves? And the rest of us... we like to tinker, so we spin up our own reverse proxies.
I'm doing something pretty similar in a HA automation, can't really think of anything better. (I have mine check if it's within... 30 days of the cert expiring and only run LE/restart nginx if that's the case)
triggered that to run at an off-hours time so it doesn't interrupt connections when i'm doing stuff :/
i'm using the nginx add-on on haos, pity there doesn't seem to be any way to make it do a reload to update the cert rather than a whole restart.
That's one of the advantages that containers have over HAOS 
has anyone seen an esp relay board but using solid state relays?
exactly what i was looking for! thanks
there's a whole bunch of them around - think i saw a 16 channel one at one point
is there anything to look out for with them?
or do they just work with similar properties to the ordinary relay designs
they're pretty much like a normal relay just better
nice
can do pwm without melting them
has anyone tried out the webRTC integration with Arlo cameras?
i am thinking of adding a FP2 motion sensor there, do you guys think it would work?
is it wide enough to see all around those places?
It will work better on the tv console (you’d probably cover the whole room)
Though you may need one in either end of the room to get solid accuracy at the fringes
think they max out around 30ish feet
gad damn, expensive
wdym? sorry
The room looks long. I would put one at waist level on either end of the room, the sensors get less accurate the further you’re trying to detect occupancy. Using 2 sensors would help that (1 for each half of the room rather than 1 for the whole room)
You can look at the Apollo mtr2 also. Works similarly for half the price. Requires more tinkering though.
i would just need to start seeing from there
which would be 530 cm from the wood axis on top
and its 260 cm high
I would not put it up there.
mh i see, its the only flat high surface close to the middle thats why
oh too high, really
what about on the side walls?
i know it has only 120 fov, but maybe its enough?
You can try it. I have mine in the corner of a room.
That 120 degrees would work way better positioned on the narrow wall
narrow wall?
On the tv wall or the one opposite that.
that?
Yes
but if i put it there, it wouldnt cover the other living rooom place
its way too far no?
Correct
ye thats why you said to put 2
so i was trying to find a way to use just 1
cuz honestly i dont really need the part between the tv and the sofa
i just need to know if someone is on the sofa
which is like 3m away from the tv
So put it on the tv table. Done
wait what
i think you understood wrong what i said, or i might have exaplined my self wrong, one sec
this is basically where i need to see it
Dude so put the sensor at the top of your red I.
so on the wood axis?
Anywhere along the wall by what I assume is your kitchen
no sorry, you are confusing me, i dont understand where and what red I would be
lol
Your room is long and thin. Put the sensor on the narrow wall closest to whatever half of the room you want to monitor.
Don’t put it on the ceiling.
Don’t put it on one of the wide walls.
No
Your room is a giant rectangle

A rectangle has 2 long walls
And two narrow
Which narrow wall is closest to your couch?
so the tv one?
Omfg
It should.
thats like 8m from the wall all the way to the sofa
You are making this so much harder than it needs to be.
Try it there. If it doesn’t work. Move it to the other end of the room and try it there.
i mean sorry i guess?
i dont have it, thats why, i need to buy it, and if it doesnt work its kinda useless
gonna be interesting on how i will plug it to the power
does anyone regularly reboot their esp mmwave sensors?
I restart the radar regularly, but don’t reboot the esp
hey sorry, by any chance is there a camera that does that too? cuz it would also be nice to monitor by seeing
so i was wondering if theres a motion sensor FP2 type thing that also does as a camera
<@&330946878646517761> j_biniance spam
probably better off looking for two different devices that each do their job well rather than one combined device that's unlikely to be as good.
I want som RGB in Ceiling Lights that have control over intensity and able to be controlled via HA. I would like it be decently bright and its to light up a bedroom
#1284966353798697001 also sounds like a job for hue can lights
Hi guys, I want to monitor some data incomming on my raspberry Pi 5s serial port but I can't get it to work, I know for a fact, that there is data incomming but neither cat nor minicom does recieve anything what am I doing wrong?
Try https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1284966617670881350 and paste some of your code and findings.@wooden anvil
I need to come up with a ventillation solution for my network rack closet, the unraid server in there is making things a bit too warm for my liking. I was thinking about grabbing two of these https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Temperature-Controller-Workshops/dp/B0BFK144X5 and wiring up separate electrical outlets, one up high for the exhaust and one down low for intake. Is this a horrible approach to use one central temp sensor to control two zigbee plugs to get both of the fans turning on/off in unison? Anyone approached a similar project in a different way maybe that I'm not thinking of?
wish i could take advantage of the fans ability to be hard wired, but i think that would complicate automating anything and would rely on the onboard sensors which wouldn't talk to each other (high vs low)
I'm looking to buy speakers (likely wireless) for my open concept kitchen / living room / dining area and was wondering if there are any preferred brands?
is bluetooth sufficient for quadrophonic+ audio or should I be looking for wifi based stuff
Bluetooth is less than ideal. It compresses audio a lot.
I posted in hardware about Roku and streaming Reolink cameras to them (https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1311462848957911043). But is that more for here? I wasn't sure because it looks like you'd need to modify stuff on the roku to get it to work right.
it’s fine in hardware (but it would be better in #1284966582375813201 )
Why not just a single fan and a vent?
Just discovered USB charged rechargeable batteries… https://everactive.eu/sites_collections/product/791
everActive - high quality chargers, rechargeable Ni-MH batteries, primary batteries, flashlights. Check out our great offers.
There's also USB powered battery replacers
Can you list trusted brands which produce devices like https://blebox.eu/en/products/ ?
I see there is also https://www.shelly.com/
Hi! I'm new to HA. Which solar battery is compatible? is there a list?
#1284966353798697001 can better answer that, with the recommendation tag - do tell people the country you're in, budget, etc
Can anyone recommend a (cheap) module / setup for turning on/off an LED strip based on human presence?
My needs are simple, i just want the light to turn on if a person enters the kitchen area of my flat, and turn it off if the person leaves. Can be simplified tho (e.g. only sense motions and turn it off if no motion for x seconds, etc)
afaik most reliable would be esphome + 5g mmWave sensor
I was just thinking about implementing one... is there a way to switch on 230V but without that clacking sound of the relay? I know there are solid state relays but why is none of the zigbee smart plugs using these? sometimes it's nice to hear it but for switching on an amp with speakers I think it'd be smoother without that sound
can you recommend a certain product? Or should i just buy any that fits that description? Also how easy is this to set up? I remember struggling a lot when trying to set up voice assistant sattelites or DIY IR blasters using ESPHome
I know many people love YAML for its simplicity, however for me personally it's way more confusing than e.g. writing a logic in Python lol
that only means you haven't made enough mistakes with esphome 😄 it's pretty simple once you fixed all the syntax errors 😄
maybe go to the esphome discord and use the search. we had a few talks about it. But I haven't had the time to buy the sensors and test it out for me..
Already found one that has good reviews and isn't that expensive.
Do you know if there's any way to limit the sensor's "field of activity"? The kitchen part of my flat is not a seperate room, but rather a corner of my living room, so i'd want the sensor to trigger only if someone actually is IN the kitchen, not next to it
something like this
Yeah I think maybe the space under the door down to the wood floors is about 3/4” so that probably is enough of a space to let fresh air in. One exhaust fan up high might be enough and would really simplify things (let the fan trigger itself with what it already has onboard).
hmmm anyone have experience with Ikea's SYMFONISK wifi bookshelf speakers?
Yes. Lots of people do 😉
Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.
When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:
- What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
- What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
- Is the problem uniform or erratic?
- What's the exact error message?
- When did it arise?
- What exactly don't you "get"?
- Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
ok I'm thinking of grabbing some symfonsik bookshelf speakers then modding them to output to better quality speakers
or maybe if I'm going that route I should get some sort of DIY PCBs instead
the symfonisk speakers are sonos, and i'd bet that the software has some specific dsp tuning for the built-in speaker drivers. no idea if a mod like that would provide good results or not.
kinda unfortunate how the sonos "Port" and "Amp" devices, their official "bring your own speakers" devices, are so expensive :/
might be better off looking at a different ecosystem or a completely diy solution depending on what your goals are.
for example you might consider using an esp32 or raspberry pi based solution running squeezelite.
There are plenty of posts on Reddit and various hacking sites about projects people have done with modding Symfonisk. They all seem positive about the outcome. They're a solid solution if you're already in the Sonos ecosystem.
hi yes more ms paint please thanks (srsly i enjoy it)
oh I'm in no ecosystem right now, I mean I guess I have some Gen 2 Amazon Echos that have 3.5mm audio jacks but that's a whole can of worms I don't know how to deal with for general audio output (unsure if they use Wifi for music)
maybe Arylic 
hmm seems like they are just resellers of Rakoit
Why no smart home company offers HA? I'm located in Texas

I am looking to invest in some smart tech for my apartment, and I have most apple devices and a homepod. Question is should I look for matter based devices or should I specifically target zigbee devices.
I would like to use HA to control everything and not too keen on using the Home app on apple devices.
At the moment I have two eve smart thermostat that uses matter.
I'd say if you have matter devices already, go with matter
if you spot zigbee or zwave devices you want, having multiple networks is fine, too
ignore matter's existence and buy zigbee/zwave/sprinkling of wifi/ble if the hardware makes sense
Thanks. I will do some research for zwave based devices. But maybe it’s still better to just get started with what I have and then when my buying new devices stick to zigbee / zwave
Matter devices are fine, they are just immature to zigbee and zwave but it is the way the commercial market is moving.
is anyone aware of any sort of bathroom exhaust fan that can mount easily over a bathroom window and also be smart (or attach to a standard smart AC wall plug)?
can someone explain the HA database to me? I am using recorder but I still have a huge file home-assistant_v2.db.bak. That date isn't that old but it could be from when I copied it from an old server I don't remember when
That might be a bigger explaination from an expert. The #1284966617670881350 with the "Analytics" tag might be able to help better.
Desperate cry for help
We have been trying to create a bettery supplied energy sensor technology to detect cigarette smoke, we want to be able for the sensor to last for months before having to recharge the battery, most of the smoke sensors in the market such as PM 2.5 have high energy consumption hence cannot be used to detect in small intervals smoking incidents. Even if we try to sleep the sensor for long period of times its capabilities decrease and it is no longer accurate. Anyone has a suggestion of alternative technologies that we can implement either on possible smoke sensors or other sensors that could possibly combined with software logic be reliable in detecting such incidents? Note: that we are trying to build this technology from scratch.
#1284966353798697001 with the DiY IoT tag can probably better help
Is anyone good with electrical stuff? I want to try using a standard E26 to E12 candelabra converter in my old ceiling fan fixture that has a t12 bulb. The glass base is only 5cm so standard bulbs won't fit
how would i make this as a alarm clock?https://www.seeedstudio.com/ReSpeaker-2-Mics-Pi-HAT.html
We designed a smart clock, it can display the time and set an alarm, as well as voice interaction. You can put it on table or bedside table. It is cute, looks like a cat. There are 2 mics under the cat's ears. So it can capture voice and do the alexa interaction. There is a speaker at back side and usb power supply cable as well. Hope you like ...
I have all the home assistant back end stuff setup already
I wanted to make something more sleek and modern looking as well
Man, the HACS default repo is lagging behind on pull requests. The new integrations being merged these days were posted in February. 😵💫
The instructions to add a custom integration, in this case Genie\Aladin garage door control, starts with 1. Go to HACS -> Integrations.
2. Click the three dots on the top right and select "Custom Repositories".
On my installation, when I click on the three dots, the only menu option is Application Credentials. Am I looking in the wrong place?
You are not in HACS (in the newer versions there is no integrations page anymore), but on the HA integrations page.
Got it. Thanks for the clarification. I was assuming that HACS was an insider shorthand for the Home Assitant settings. I see now that it is a separate addon.
hey guys if you have a group of covers how would you activate the group within automations (with yaml)
action: - service: homeassistant.off target: entity_id: group.owners_curtains
this is an #1284980040940912641 question
well it got your response 😉

only to block you
You'll get responses but no answers. And not following moderator directions is not a smart move 😉
Hint: yellow means mod
i will continue to that the method of organizing issues and questions makes sense on the forums and or github. In discord it has completely gone off on a tangent
Regardless of if you like it or not, posting in the right place is the way to get help. You can walk into a library and ask for cremation services, but that's not the right way to solve a problem.
service: cover.close_cover
incase some other person searches in discord for cremation services
can someone let RobC know I am sorry for my actions and apologize I didn't want him to block me
Always a good day when i build a new firmware for my espressif thread border router and my thread network still works afterwards… would be nice if it worked first try tho rather than my having to fiddle around with esp-idf versions and menuconfig settings and re-flash a few times :)
Apparently i should have TREL now.
... which i guess means i need a second thread border router so i can test that out :)
This looks interesting...
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/pokypow-remote-control-your-pc-with-home-assistant-build-log/807583
Hey everyone! 👋 I hope it’s okay to introduce my little project here. It’s a bit of self-promotion, but I built it specifically for nerds like us. 🤓 The project is called PokyPow (originally pc-switch). What does it do? With PokyPow, you can remotely control your PC or server through Home Assistant to: Turn it on Turn it off Reset it Ha...
Hi guys, this is my central heating unit. Seems like it doesn't have an EMS bus or alike. Wwyd to make this smart? I only have floor heating
Do you have a thermostat? I have a similar heater, but I control it though the thermostat.
Right on. So, if you’re looking to control room temperatures, get a “smart” thermostat. I use a Z-Wave one.
Do you know a SBC or controller with ethernet to connect to the wires behind this screen that should function as a smart thermostat?
I use an external thermometer and automation because I don’t have a boiler. I can only open and close the radiators.
Though, boilers can also be controlled with a relay and managed via automation, using an external thermometer. That way, every little detail can be customized exactly how you want.
The control you can achieve will depend on the exact model - e.g. If they have opentherm you probably want to use something like this: https://github.com/diyless/esp32-WiFi-thermostat, otherwise a small relay would do the job.
Personally I use a hive thermostat and base station as it still works without home assistant so a bit more friendly when I move out
Question about thermostats. I have an ecobee thermostat, and although I like it, I see that they have stopped issuing API keys, and so I can't pull that into Home Assistant easily. I'm considering changing thermostats for this reason. Does anyone care to share what brand thermostats they are using which play well with Home Assistant?
You can use https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/ to integrate Ecobee thermostats with HA
Well, I saw that HA found it via HomeKit, but it wants a HomeKit pairing code. Docs say for me to "find" this code, on my device or packaging, etc. No idea where to find it. Maybe if I remove the device from the wall? Packaging is not a thing, because it is 2 years old.
It's on the screen of the thermostat
Ok, I'll check when I get home tonight. Thanks.
Meanwhile, I also attempted to add it via SmartThings, which I have a hub for. Maybe that's going to get me what I need, because HA sees it via that integration also.
it's always better to go direct if you can, plus HA continues to improve the actions available with Ecobee when connected via Homekit
You've already got an answer from Rob on how to make your existing thermostat work. Just in case you ever change thermostats, Hive work fantastically over Zigbee without having to use their hub. You can connect it up to ZHA/Z2M and have fully-local control.
FYI the HomeKit integration doesn’t work if you have an ecobee lite.
Thanks, Ender and RobC. I was able to pull it in through SmartThings; it is working as I need it to.
I have two Ecobee3 from many years ago
It can generate the QR code fine, and it will add to HomeKit. However, the connection resets in <1 hour and you have to go through the setup again from scratch. Ecobee is aware of it but have said they have no plans to fix it.
Yeah it’s apparently not an issue for any other model they sell. 🤷🏻♂️
Hi guys, Are there any good opentherm Ethernet gateways
i got a wifi one
Ahem, the #1284966353798697001 channel and the recommendations tag exist 😉😉
Huh, I'm kinda tempted to pick up an SLZB-06 to see if i can get espressif's port of OTBR running on the esp32 chip they use for the web ui/ser2net. Would be kind of neat if that can be done, since it would give you a nicely packaged standalone thread border router.
What esp32 chip are they using. Would need an H2 or C6 for thread support.
it contains a separate radio for zigbee/thread, either a CC2652P or EFR32MG21, both of which have thread rcp firmware available.
I know that, I thought you meant running thread alongside zigbee lol. It should be possible
so it actually ends up being very similar to espressif's TBR dev platform: https://docs.espressif.com/projects/esp-thread-br/en/latest/hardware_platforms.html except with a different vendor's radio for zigbee/thread instead of an ESP32-H2
It should work. I did a test a few years back of an early version the espressif border router with a cc2652p2 flashed with RCP fw
I have a cc2652 flashed with RCP fw now running with serial over tcp to OTBR. But the fw doesn’t seem to be great as it locks up regularl, requiring a hard reset.
The efr32 variant may be better choice for thread
Or check out my stuff 😂
there's apparently some timing trickiness with thread rcp protocol that make it a bit less reliable when run over a network, it's possible that running otbr on a directly connected device might be better than over the network?
I’d think so. one reason I’ve held off selling anything as a border router is I didn’t think it was worth it to run over tcp serial, when the esp32 could be the br
it’s definitely on my todo list so let me know how it goes
fwiw, I am currently using the espressif devkit as a border router with HA, and it's been working well, albeit with a reliatively small network.
The RCP model for thread radios is nice as it is a standard so any border router should hopefully work with any RCP radio
Say I want to make an entity that gets its value from a python script I write, where would I start?
Like an example would be showing my bank balance. I couldn't do that with just a HTTP request in HA. But I could make a selenium script that grabs that.
I have a home server setup, which is just a headless linux PC running a bunch of docker images. So I'd want to set up the python scripts to run in a docker image on the same device running the HA docker image. Not sure if that changes anything.
There isn't a specific thing I have in mind for this. But knowing how to do this may be useful in the future
I think my main problem is I don't know the proper terms to describe this, which makes it harder to research on my own.
You can have your python script send your HA a rest command and use an automation/triggered template sensor to set the value
Hi guys, Is there someone in this server whit OpenTherm experience who lives in Zuid-Holland (NL)? Please PB me
You could've just asked what it was that I'm trying to do
It's a good practice to just be more specific, because this could have ranged from a basic OpenTherm question to hey can you help installing x?
I've got a central heating unit. I want to add an OpenTherm ethernet adapter to it but I'm afraid I might damage some of the plastic parts as I open up the unit. Also, I don't have experience connecting this type of device to HA. I was wondering if there's someone near me with more experience who. Could help me out in person.
Tnx
You were already told to post in #1284966617670881350
@boreal estuary Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
Anyone have any suggestions on how i can build a sensor off of an external device that exposes a websocket? Seems that home assistant will expose its own websocket but doesn't have native support for connecting to an external websocket. I'm deploying signal-cli as a chatbot and it can expose a websocket interface. Other solution I've seen is using node-red, but was trying to limit the number of services if possible.
Build a custom integration? There's already one for Signal so that could probably give you a starting point.
OK good stuff. I'll dig into that. Thank you!
I honestly dislike the node-red solution 😄
only have it running for ONE websocket I need to connect to
Yeah, didn't really want to spin it up for just that.
Will see if chatgpt can help me hack together a basic integration.
hacked this together really quickly. Seems to work well. Bidirectional with image support from signal -- https://github.com/carpenike/hass-signal-bot
@thorny owl I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
That would be something for #1284960456880029707
Ah, my bad. was continuing the context of the previous chat but understood. I apologize!
anyone ever experienced a bug where apex charts stops getting new values and simply draws the last-known value over and over, until the entire graph is a horizontal line?
Argh. Just a second too late. 
?
I already posted it there two days ago
I don't understand what "a second too late" means
There was a guy trying to "help" you by trying to get you to join their discord server where they would either scam you or whatever
It was discord spam that was deleted
All the mods raced to ban the dude and I won :). That is all
Crossposting is also against the rules
Someone here open to help me identify an inductor value?
The issue is the two gold bands. Any info I find online do not allow two gold bands there.
Yeah... That's weird as fuck
What makes you think it is an inductor and not a resistor? Could be 8.2 Ohm 5% but that extra black band is odd.
Green is not the exclusive colour of inductors. Many power resistors are flat green. Inductors tend to be gloss green.
Did it come off a PCB? If so the silkscreen might help, if it was labelled Rxx or Lxx
It doesn't match 5 band inductors which should start with silver and double wide lines
And from what I can see to have gold-gold-black on a resistor it would need six bands total
Only the green color. I have to reason to think it could not be a resistor
No silk screen unfortunately
I do measure 8.4 ohm with a multi meter. So I think that is my answer.
Thanks guys.
if that second to left band is red it should be 8.2 ohms ± 5%
Do you see any cherubs or pitchforks or anything like that? You might have died.
Btw the black band is likely the temperature coefficient
Sorry, forgot to check this channel after asking my question.
Thanks! I was thinking I'd have to use some special api to tell HA, but this is way simpler.
This would also be a good excuse to learn the details of MQTT and try that too.
That's for #1284966617670881350 with Zigbee + Recommendations
I need some way to get a notification when my doorbell rings. Only that, nothimg else. no remote opening, no picking up remotely
I dont wanna take apart the system too hard, and i dont wanna pay too much. i just want notifs to home assistant
What voltage does your doorbell use?
perhaps this: https://frenck.dev/diy-smart-doorbell-for-just-2-dollar/
I want to build a device that consists of a board (small arduino or raspberry pi pico) and an e-ink screen, which I put next to my door and that will show me the status of the two windows that I forget to close most often.
Now would you guys recommend using an arduino or a raspberry pi? The Arduino probably uses less energy (It will be battery powered). I will connect it via wifi and subscribe to a topic on my mqtt broker where the window status will be published.
With which board will that be easier/better? Also, would a screen that is "for raspberry pi pico" also be compatible with the arduino mkr wifi 1010? They seem to have a similar layout for size and pins.
You'll get about 4x the life out of the mkr 1010 as you would a pi, as that does have a wifi low power mode and can sleep/deepsleep unlike the pi
As for connecting the screen - they almost certain will work with the duino as they're just 3/4 pin SPI interfaces mostly, but if the pinout is different it won't just plug in nicely
thank you!
You could also use an ESP board and ESPHome,
Is there something like Tinkercad but.... better? Like, there's only the arduino uno r3 available, but what if I want to use a different one? What if I want to simulate my project. I'd need an e-ink display component and the specific arduino. Is there such a tool?
Tried that template. Now I gotta figure out how to make it work. 😛 Doesn't create any kind of entity. Never worked with templates.
the suffering when making a proto board for something
one channel of the thing works.
the other 3 that are identically made
do not.
😐
Rip in peace
How about you don't crosspost that to every channel you can find? 🤯
It was 2 channels
anyone here know about valve covers in HA? I am trying to use them to control some water valves and I am finding out my automations don't work because the service: valve.open and volve.close don't really exist?
They do exist: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/valve/. #1284966582375813201 can help figure out what's going on
right the syntax is a little different it has action instead of service:
actions:
- action: valve.close
target:
entity_id: valve.demo
its not service: valve.close
I am learning that the hard way
That makes no difference. They both work
Home server and cloudflared-related thing:
I have a domain (separate from the one I normally use for home server stuff) that hosts a site. But I'm wanting to use a specific subdomain for a service running on a docker image.
Anyone have advice on how to set that up on the cloudflare side?
Like I imagine there are 2 approaches:
- Handle the domain in cloudflare and forward non home server stuff to the server hosting the site
- handle the domain in my name registrar and forward home server subdomains to cloudflare
If it matters, I get hosting from the same site I bought the domain from (namecheap)
I think this is mainly a "don't know how to phrase my problem in a google-able way" problem. Like I just need to be pointed at where to start and don't expect someone to guide me through it all
you use a reverse proxy.
nginx, traefik. etc
If you use Docker then IMO Traefik is the one true way
(not that NGINX, Caddy, etc suck, it's just that Traefik integrates so nicely)
I'm looking at the documentation for traefik, and it's leaving me a bit confused. The only time it mentions your domain is to to say you have to set a config value to your domain. But there must be some other step. If that's all there is, anyone could hijack any domain they don't own using that.
I feel like there's something really obvious that I'm missing here
Maybe I shouldn't be trying to learn this at almost 3AM, lol
Well, no, they can't
DNS has to resolve to the right IP still
And getting SSL certs requires that you control the DNS in some way too
oh, am I supposed to be running the traefik image on the server already tied to the domain? Like the one the webpage is already hosted on?
It's a reverse proxy, so ... kind of
If you're new to reverse proxies, maybe an illustration would help with the concept.
The home server I'm wanting to run the service I'm talking about doesn't have a static IP.
Also I don't have control over the modem for my apartment's internet (I do have control over the wifi router though). All I know about the actual setup is that my internet is a virtual network controlled by the apartment. I'm not sure if that matters
It matters
Everything that happens outside of your LAN is just regular internet stuff. It's only once the traffic gets into your LAN that the reverse proxy considers what the user actually asked for and servers the right application.
And you're probably, kind of, hosed, but not totally - you can work around those limitations in various ways
Tailscale is one way
CF tunnels is the easy one, if you own your own domain
https://blog.ceard.tech/2018/09/accessing-inacessible covers (some of) the options
I'm currently using cloudflared for home assistant and several other stuff. So I know that works at least
Although this would be a good opportunity to learn how to use a reverse proxy, since I want this to be tied to a different domain than the one I'm using for all the cloudflare tunnel stuff
CF tunnels work because they're outbound for setup, without a public IP or being able to get a port forward then a (simple) reverse proxy won't work
Ah I'm in the same boat
Oh, I just noticed that my router has a DDNS service built in that will give me a url that's just [random string].asuscomm.com
Probably the simpliest way would be to just make an DNA record that points to that on my domain.
I'm not sure how secure that is compared to the reverse proxy
Well... there's good news and bad news
The good news is no different for security
The bad news is that it'll return the IP of the modem, rather than your router, I suspect
I guess it might help to say what this is for also: I'm wanting to host a personal matrix instance.
So unlike the stuff I'm currently hosting, it needs to be accessible by more than just my personal devices
Easy check - what's the first two sets of numbers shown in the router's admin pages for the WAN IP
For example 10.15.x.y
Is that the same as the IP I go to to look at router settings?
oh, you said WAN not LAN
Yes, the external IP, not the internal one
It starts with 100.65
You're fucked
That's what's known as CGNAT, aka not public IP
That router DDNS, that's gonna do nothing for you
Same with any DDNS, or anything that needs port forwarding
CF tunnels is the way forwards
I wish everyone would agree to just use IPv6. Half of internet stuff seems to be workarounds stacked like 5 layers deep to deal with ipv4 exhauastion
Thanks for helping me figure that all out though!
If it does help with anything, the server tied to that domain is a linux server that I'm able to ssh into. I don't have admin/root access, so I can't install stuff. But I can run binaries I manually download to it
what domain?
Well, you can change where the domain resolves to
You can also create hosts in the domain that use your CF tunnel
the domain is just magnusvesper.com
my goal for this is to host a matrix instance at matrix.magnusvesper.com (without interfereing with the website)
But I may want to run other stuff. Basically, I'll use that for any services I intend other people to use.
I have a different domain that's just a random combination of words that I use for stuff only I would ever access
oh yeah. I guess subdomains of my domain are the same type of thing as the domain itself
Technically, my domain is just a subdomain of ".com" to begin with
my goal for this is to host a matrix instance at matrix.magnusvesper.com (without interfereing with the website)
Easy
Like I also have the same where I live in an apartment building and have no public IP. So I can only host via ngrok or something else that tunnels
If you really want to host stuff at home and expose to the public, you could also consider just get a small VPS and creating your own tunnel
Fun fact reguarding that "ai" is a valid web domain. Just "ai" with no dots. Have fun trying to visit it, since browsers think it's invalid. But you can do a DNS lookup of "ai" to see it does have an ANAME record. It's currently the only domain (with an A record) with no dots in it
I believe that is also an option, but I don't believe its easy as 1-2-3
I've done that before, and wrote it up for others, it's pretty easy
Not as seamless as CF tunnels, but damn close
Because I'm a pedant and using these terms correctly is important 😅 .com is a TLD (top-level domain). bar.com is a domain. foo.bar.com is a subdomain.
Unless you become mighty rich, you'll never own a TLD. But if you own a domain, you can create as many subdomains under it as you wish.
Ah, thanks! I may look into that later. But right now, I have no money. Like I'm looking at selling blood plasma for food money this week.
Maybe I should be focusing on getting a job over this, lol
Oh that s nice
oh, lol I didn't notice that was you who wrote that before
(and read the rest of the blog while you're there
)
I need to write more, but the idea fairy got drowned out by busy lately
And by lately I mean since about the middle of last year
That's better than my last publish date 😂
I should start some sort of blog, one of my friends has been encouraging me to. I keep starting personal projects in which I learn an unnecessary amount of detail about the thing I'm using.
Like I'm currently doing something with a brushless motor, which need little driver boards. I could have stopped at "turn dial to change speed". But instead, I'm writing a library so I can use the debug interface it has to pull data from its ram as it runs
At the very least, I should put stuff about my projects on my website. All I have now is this homepage http://magnusvesper.com
I want to do an article on https://cloudfree.shop/product/sinilink-usb-switch-flashed-with-tasmota/?, which are handy little things, and another on my new NAS box (Terramaster F4-424)
that's cool! Although a bit expensive ... I mean basically all hubs have the functionality by design but only very few are implementing the usb standard like this and so it's almost not possible. Like for the raspi that's kinda sad. Would be great if every port would be switchable (you can only switch off all ports or none – though I think you have two "hub" at least 2.0 and 3.0? forgot about that... think not tho sadly)
folks.. while hanging my wet clothes I tried to solve my problem for a proper bike light. there are some kits for mucho dinero that can transform the power from the wheel dynamo into usable energy for the Li-puffer-battery. Now I wonder ... there must be already some cooler project with ESP32s and some awesome displays
Ooh, that's cool. I wonder if there's a similar thing that supports USB C power delivery.
Adafruit sells PD triggers that support I2C. So you could make one with that I guess.
I've been playing around with one, and it's cool. You can read what voltage/current combos are supported and change the voltage requested after it's plugged in
Adafruit's ChatGPT generated library is pretty annoying at times though
Like it chose to represent voltage and current as enums. And every function has its own type of enum.
So "get selected current" and "get supported current" return different types, even though both have the exact same set of values that could be returned. Same thing is true for voltage.
sounds dangerous tho 😄 but cool
how do you start building a house dose anyone know
Draw up some plans first. Then pick up a hammer.
i dont really know what to draw im a new home owner
If you already own a home why do you want to start building another one? And why are you asking in a completely unrelated forum that is about home automation?
Anyone use the Workday sensor? I need a good way to stop certain automations from running on weekends and holidays. But it seems that either it isn't working or it doesn't treat Christmas Eve as a holiday
I have a time of use power plan, I have automations that charge my batteries on grid power if the sun is poor as well as switch to battery power during peak hours and turn off some high power stuff. But they don't need to do that on holidays and weekends. Weekends are easy enough but I need a way to incorporate major holiday exclusions as well
You can add holidays to it. Make sure your country code is correct first. Best discussed in #1284966582375813201
I assumed the major holidays were built in. I'll move to integrationd
Hello! I was hoping to get some help with generic linux<> hard drive issue i've come across, is it okay to post the qn/problemn here?
(i do have HA but this is not related, though it is an issue with my server)
TIL to always check forums before buying a product... Bought the MyStrom button..
I just used portainer the wrong way to download latest frigate image. I used the recreate container and pull image option now frigate is down. The latest version of portainer is slightly different I used to just go in and repull image and I think I went a little 2 far. Anyone know how I might be able to recover my previous container and settings?
That sounds totally fine and normal
Pulling and recreating the container is normal
Review the logs to see what it's complaining about
And post in #1284966353798697001 -> Cameras
Just in reviewing the container it seems that the directories where i actually stored my config etc are now back to the default. It has honestly been almost 2 years that this has been running so I am going to have to refresh my memory on all things docker again ha.
I think it lost my configuration settings like i stored config in directory frigate-config but it was showing /config
Seems like you didn't map that directory
I am kind of explaining that recreate is probably not the right option it did say anything not persistant will not be saved and maybe that includes the original docker configuration 😦
It's absolutely the right option
You should map the directory properly
Containers are ephemeral and should contain no persistent data at all
Anytime you pull an image you need to recreate the container
Or change anything about it at all.
I have been upgrading with portainer up until 13.2 and I just recently upgraded portainer and the interface is different now. Never had a problem. So feels like I did something different I never had to reconfigure anything.
Ok
I just always pulled the latest image for frigate and kept on going. But let's see what the logs will say.
Please create a list in #1284966353798697001 -> Cameras for more
Ordered my own 4CH SSR switch box for my floor heating. no more clicky di click click.
please tell me all about it
I hate it when it clicks 😦
Just made a switch board for zigbee that uses solid state relays.
so cool
tell me all about it 😄
So omg, The primagen is playing with Devin (that $500/month AI that should work as a junior)
The first video he posted he had to try really hard to get it to push to master
And in the second video he's making an ape out of it and it's so funny to watch
Twitch https://twitch.tv/ThePrimeagen
Discord https://discord.gg/ThePrimeagen
Become Backend Dev: https://boot.dev/prime
(plus i make courses for them)
This is also the best way to support me is to support yourself becoming a better backend engineer.
LINKS
Great News? Want me to research and create video????: https:...
Just found a neat command line tool for linunx: yq
It lets you filter and modify yaml files.
If you're used jq, which is the same for json, it's just a wrapper for that and uses the same syntax. yq also comes with xq and tomlq which do the same for xml and toml.
Example:
❯ yq -Y '.http' configuration.yaml
use_x_forwarded_for: true
trusted_proxies:
- 172.16.0.0/24
- 192.168.32.0/24
Could be useful if you wanted like a setup script that changed something in the config.
Hi guys!
I'm completly new, terminal has been set up few hours ago.
I would like to start with HA configuration but before begin I have one question.
I have got vacuum machine, Roborock S5 MAX, normaly I used app Xiaomi Home to connect with Roborock S5 and set up vacuum in correct way.
How it works ?
Do I still need app Xiaomi Home? or connecting vacuum via Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus is enough and app Xiaomi Home is not needed anymore ?
I'm asking this question because I have a router with "Easy Mesh" solution, WiFi 2.4G and 5G are together in one WiFI network, I would like to keep it.
but I have a problem with connect smart devices because of smart devices required 2.4G...
the Roborock was just example
I would like to understand if I still need extra apps for specific devices
or HA is all what I need ?
It depends on the device. For some you need the app for others you don't.
And if a device supports Zigbee, you might use it with the Sonoff Zigbee stick. If it doesn't, you cannot.
It depends. Some devices can get along with it, some have problems.
I was trying to connect doorbell from Xiaomi, and boiler from Ariston, both have a problem
Sometimes it is sufficient to turn off 5GHz for the setup process and turning it back on after.
I think it will be better to separate them in advance, than make all of the connection one more time in the future, once I will have device which cannot be connected via Zigbee
yes, that's best option, but because of setup in my router I cannot separate networks with "Easy Mesh" option on... I have to make it off first
after that I will be not able to come back to one network for both 2.4 ang 5g because it will disconnect all of the deivices anyway
I've been making weird home assistant gadgets, and decided to make a board that'd handle things like driving motors, pumps, LED's, and vape coils (to act as mini smoke machines), just sent in an order for five (minimum order) and kinda nervous to see if it actually does the thing
it's essentially a featherwing, since I use the esp32 s3 feather a lot
having too much fun
It's a bit essoteric to sell, but I wanted to lean into making it as if I would to keep myself from being sloppy, so it has notes on the board for use, maximum current in different areas, a place to calculate current draw... I did forget that it'd probably be wave soldered, so I planned for goldish contacts... but live and learn
Dual ESP?
Trying for single, might have to revise up later depending on how it shakes out
Now I'm nervous, is there a reason a single esp32 s3 can't stream music and send i2c commands?
Mirrored accidentally, decided to leave it on on purpose 😉
Love a bit of Emma
it's a line you can set your watch by
If I didn't fuck anything up too bad, the test piece will be american gothic, but it's skeletons in hazmat suits in front of a burning oil well, with smoke and lights timed to the music playing
this is my second board, so it's a big if
I'm having a dumb moment.....
two entities, but I can't see / add sensor.ups_switch_energy to the Energy dashboard - ie it doesn't even show up
what have I done wrong?
ah - recorder wildcards 😄
Can you elaborate? I can't add my rack ups (added via NUT integration) as a power consumer
Ah - I just cut down a lot of stuff I don't care about from the recorder to save on DB size - and the wildcards I had set excluded this device from being recorded.
Aha, fair enough! Tyvm
I duno who needs to know this, but silicone insulation project wire is AMAZING! I can solder/resolder/touchup things and not have the insulation melt/ bend/ deform/ degrade! Also with the smaller gauge, I cn easily strip the wire with my thumbnail! its SO NEAT! 👍🙂
it also twists together well to make itty bitty looms to keep wiring inside small project boxes clean:
so nifty!!
Yeah silicone wire is awesome. I bought a couple of coloured sets a few years ago and use them for all small projects like that if I'm soldering rather than crimping
really speeds things up. I got one of the set of rolls in a dispensor - works great on the bench
Yup! Sadly I do crimp a lot, I like being able to disconnect things when I inevitably break them, and find the insulation doesn't hold up well to that
You wouldn't recommend silcone wire for portal turrets then?
It would be lore accurate for their wires to snap
Hey guys! I recently bought a bluetooth coffee smart scale and found there's a protocol documentation on the manufacturers github, quite amazing! I'm trying to find out what would be the quickest way to get the device into home assistant? Custom integration? ESPhome device? How do I start?
https://github.com/BooKooCode/OpenSource/blob/main/bookoo_mini_scale/protocols.md
that depends on your level of competency/experience in both dealing with bluetooth shenanigans and esphome.
Technically both of these can be done via esphome.. via bluetooth proxy or via a device shoved inside of the other device and tapping into things.. 🤷♂️
I opted to go for the integration path because that's somethign I have the least expereince about, and actually wanted to learn about for quite a while 😅
I'm actually making a copy of the acaia component and modify it to work with the bookoo component. Currently trying to figure out to deal with the aioacara package. I know how to use the packages, but I've never done any active dev work on one.
How do I locally manage a separate package like the one in aioacara, or in my case a copy of it, so I can work on it and the home assistant integration at the same time? It seems I can open the installed aioacara package in the dev environment, but I figure working on it is supposed to be done differently?
Any idea what's the best place to find answers for python related questions like this? I feel like I spend a lot of time researching them, like significantly more time than actually reading/modifying/writing code 🤯 I know it's the price of getting started with something new, just trying to gain some more traction 🤔
Wow, github copilot actually gave a pretty decent answer, suggesting to clone the aioacaia repo and use pip install -e to install the package in editable mode.
But since I'm using the home assistant dev container, how does this repaint the picture? Do I clone the repo in the dev container? Do I clone it on my local system and reference the local repository in the dev container?
Go to the Channels and Roles channel at the top and select Development. Then use the developer channels here for questions .
And I assume that you've seen the HA dev documentation?
I have, I assume I should revisit it? 😅
Actually thinking about it, I was following the flow, which was interrupted with the broken scaffold script 🙈
I suggest posting here: https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1257019582112334014
thanks!
This isn't specifically a smart home question, so not sure where to ask, but I'm trying to come up with an equation for determining how long it will take to heat my house. I think the variables would at least be the current and target temperature, outside temperature, and then some factor to tune.
You need to also understand the thermal mass, what your losses are, and what your (heat) inputs are
If you're adding (say) 5K BTU and losing (say) 1K BTU then that's a net positive 4K BTU, which is quite different than if you're adding 2K...
Yeah it wouldn't be an exact science, but I think that could be captured with the factor variable i could tune over time, no?
Personally, I'd do it experimentally. Turn off the heating. Measure the rate of loss over an hour.
Turn the heating on, measure how quickly it climbs by one or two degrees
Repeat this when the outside temperature is meaningfully different
I'm sure there's a bunch of material online about this, it's pretty much bread-and-butter of heating engineers
Well what affects it more than I expected was the outside temperature. At my last place I had forced air and it didn't seem to matter too much, but we have radiators now and it can take hours
That's probably partly because of heat loss
Also radiators heat the air indirectly, so it'll take longer for the air temperature to change
I've looked around a bit but the heating equations are more complicated than I think I need
We mostly don't find that it takes long for radiators to heat rooms here, but there's one room that's exposed on two sides and is just a single story - that room also cools down a lot faster than the others
Yeah it's an old house so lots of heat loss
I know how the different variables should affect the final number, but I can't seem to think of how to put it all together into one equation
i guess you need a per room heat loss factor to multiply with the temperature difference between the inside and outside. also some per room constant to define how much mass to heat. not just the air, but surfaces, heavy heat conducting objects etc.
It's a really messy calculation. If you know the style of radiators and a tape measure you can work out roughly how much heat your radiators output, but there's a lot of history in it as well. If your walls have cooled down your air temp will rise slower and cool faster than it would if they were warmer
And your wall temp can vary based on how much you've heated the room in the last day, insulation, material, wind, rain, snow, time of day and year...
Of course there's also latent heat of people/pets/devices that can also throw things off
100 to 300W heat output per human depending on activity levels
100W is about right for sleeping, awake is about 150W, exercising can be 1kW or more
Yeah I mean it's possible that it will be too inconsistent, but from what I've seen I think it's roughly the same and those factors (current indoor, target, current outdoor temps) are the only things that affect it
I just need to figure out how to put those into an equation along with a variable factor I can tune which is basically I think a standin for my heat loss like Tinkerer was saying
I don't think I need to get too technical with it like figuring out the heat output or the size of the room, etc. That would all be handled by the factor number that I can tune
You could probably fudge it sufficiently
Yeah I'm just terrible at math but maybe I'm overthinking it. Gonna give something I came up with a shot
In the very loosest terms:
dT/dt = (some scaling factor) * (heat going in, only really related to how many and which radiators are on unless you have a heat pump or an under sized boiler) - (scaling factor related to the size and insulation of your walls, roof and floors) * (inside temperature - outside temperature)
Which you can then integrate from T_current to T_target to get your time
Why would I need more than one scaling factor?
And I think I can just assume the heat going in per room is the same, or if not I would think the scaling factor would handle it
Hey guys and gals, I'm pretty new to Home assistant. have it running on a Pi for over a year now, but since yesterday I moved it over on VM on my new home server.
I started working on my automations and whenever I build a new automation now using the GUI in zha it just disappears from the list the moment I save it... I don't know what to do..
I think you'd want to post in #1284980040940912641. Clarify what you mean by GUI in ZHA though because ZHA is just an integration that lets you use Zigbee devices and you wouldn't create an automation in it
I'm not so good in explaning it then I guess... Thing is, I make automation using the Create Automation button? I cant edit YAML, I'm not proficient in that yet. Problem is, that my automations have started disappearing from the list after I create them and save them.
Create a post like I mentioned and ping me and I'll follow up
Because the two are completely unrelated
You have 3 solid(ish) numbers (heat in, temperature inside, temperature outside - the latter 2 combine to give you your deltt_T) and you have some level of fudge factor for both - the first is just the inverse of the thermal mass of your house (how much the temperature rises per unit of heat) and the second is a jumble of different things related to thermal conductivity, heat flux, and also the thermal mass of the house
Warning, differential equations needed, as the heat energy flux depends on the delta-T. 😅 It may become relatively complicated, so, at least my heat pump mfg has settled to an empirical look-up-table.
hey guys! is this an appropriate channel to ask you a question about an esp project i’m trying to work on? (I’m a total beginner to this whole ha thing lol)
Most likely the ESPHome Discord. Otherwise #1284966353798697001 with the "DIY IoT" tag on this Discord.
(this is not a request for help)
I bought a bunch of Minir4's, and want to flash ESP home
It has some exposed pads, but when i tried to use putty to hold pins against the pads, i wasnt happy with the result, and my attempt at sodlering to them... leaves a lot to be desired.
Figured i could hold pins against them if i 3d printed a holder. I have a high res pic,
Plan is to make something like this, once i get the measurements
that way i snap the pins into the holder, and then clip this onto the device. little bit of spring to hold it against the device
Reminds me I should build one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3615910
yuea, that would be a much better way of doing what i plan to
going to save those plans
looking more into this, thats a really cool design.
Totally going to need it, but need some more materials before i can
he has a wild looking V2 on his website: https://ingegnotech.com/PCB-Workstation-Kit-XL-con-Sonde-a-Micro-Aghi-p532214291
Logger: homeassistant.components.automation.inside_lights_off_at_3_am
Source: components/automation/init.py:776
integration: Automation (documentation, issues)
First occurred: January 8, 2025 at 3:00:32 AM (1 occurrences)
Last logged: January 8, 2025 at 3:00:32 AM
Error while executing automation automation.inside_lights_off_at_3_am:
not much of a error?
trigger:
- platform: time
at: "03:00:00"
I swear there is something wrong with this now
its a VERY simple automation
#1284980040940912641 might be able to help
get decent flux.
Makes such a huge difference
and also probably just use leaded solder
unless you have an explici reason not to
https://northridgefix.com/product/amtech-nc-559-v2-tf-flux-10ml-syringe-plunger-2-needle-sizes/
This stuff is the cocaine of flux
messy cleanup a bit.. but you don't technically have to clean it off.. but goddamn it works
I have some... Ok flux, not great stuff
But yea, leaded solder.
I think I have some amtech knockoff.
Hrmm I may have to try this, my lead free solder causes copper to immediately corrode (and it is apparently rosin core)
has anyone tried any of the new asus NUCs yet?
How do you guys handles large number of devices on the dashboard?
Like i have seen some people use room cards and such, but i have maby 10 lights in one room, and the button turns them all on, when normal usage is max 2 lights on. i dont think i've ever had all lights on in a room :/
Right now im playing with the idea of bubble card, so 1 button for each room that opens a pop-up with the lights / devices for that room.
What other good ideas do we have? the main idea is to not have a dashboard with 100 buttons, because that will just make it take longer to find the correct button than to just use the normal lightswitch 😛
i make multiple dashboards, so in the default one i keep all enabled sensors divided by rooms. mostly for debugging or getting at seldom used ones. then i have one for cell phones with the bare minimum that offers switches for the most commonly used groups of lights, the living room thermostat and such. my lights are in zigbee groups set up through z2m making it easy to target them.
on cell phones just make the simplified dashboard the default one
well yea, i have one layout for phones (this needs upgrading aswell, but ill get to that later). right now im concerned with getting the wall tablet better configured, we have had it on the wall for 3 years now, but i dont think anyone used it more than maby 5 times total -.-' i need to de-clutter it and make it more user friendly.. (tho im a backend developer and anything that has to do with design is my worst enemy)
what other ideas have people tried and liked / dissliked? like maby filtering the devices to only show what is on / off? or only show devices for rooms where the motion sensor has turned on?
untill now i've mostly used buttons with the most accurate MDI icon i could find, but that also means i got multiple lights with the same icon for different rooms... like a window for the window light
or is it better to just do the work and get a full floorplan in, maby have home feed and weather at top and then a floorplan under?
personally i like having meaningful groups of lights. zigbee will only send one message for each group instead of individual messages to each bulb. and you can even set up your wall switch to bind directly to the groups for e.g. on/off so that you can turn lights on and off without even involving ha. except the orchestrator must be up of course. still won't work if your ha host has the orchestrator and it is completely down.
for statically mounted panels i would let it default to just the room it is in, and offer a way to switch to another room. then just keep it as simple as possible. either scenes based on common activities in that room or groups of lights with one simple button per group. depending on what your family likes. design both kinds for one of your rooms with an easy way to switch and let them see which one they prefer.
smarthome powered by redstone
having the tablet be for that room with option to switch room makes some sense, grouping lights ive tried but didnt like, i found myself needing to go out of my way to controll them individually way to often. scripts to control the whole house like "cleaning" "cozy" "bed time" and so seems to make more sense.
Yea,
That's what I have, but not sure if mine is a knockoff, or if I got it from Amazon
I mean the stuff I"m using is definitely "expired" but works just fine. 🤣
Hello, I got a HA voice preview, and I'm looking to interface with it without HA (ie I want to write a server that speaks Wyoming). Does anyone have any info on how I can talk to the device?
Thank you
Anyone who has a bit of PCB experience able to take a peek over a schematic I've gotten drawn up for an ESP HVAC controller bridge (simple thing, ssrs and optos) aside from clearly needing to add a capacitor between the rectified mains and the regulator?
AT222 SSR
Toshiba Optocouplers
Just to make sure I didn't screw anything up before I submit an order.
AT222-CuH-S AOTE $0.9427 - SPST-NO(1 Form A) x 2 1.4V 60V 1.5Ω 500mA AC SMD-8P Solid State Relays (MOS Output) ROHS datasheet, price, inventory C22439635
TLP290-4(GB-TP,E(T TOSHIBA $0.4904 - 80V 2.5kV 50mA 400mV@2.4mA,8mA 4 1.2V AC,DC SOP-16-4.4mm Transistor, Photovoltaic Output Optoisolators ROHS datasheet, price, inventory C39031
I'm new to HA and migrating from HS4. I'm curious about how others have named their devices in HA. In HS4, for example, my Office Ceiling Lights have a device name of "Ceiling Lights" and a device location of "Office." As I understand that, that would make the HA Area "Office," but would that translate to a HA Name of "Ceiling Lights" or "Office Ceiling Lights" (repeating the Area name)?
Whatever the hell you want.. Area doesn't factor into names. 😄
would suggest to try and have some level of consistency though as to not drive yourself insane trying to find something and etc
The answer can be simple, or complicated, it depends on how you expect to use the name. I don't add the area/room to things like lights, but I do for doors and windows - because getting told that the window is open isn't very helpful 😄
I named my Lights with numbers. Doesn't help very much most of the time – even though knowing they are all in the same room/area helps. A bit.
my take on this: Make every light have USP 😄 like giving them something special that I can refer to
I almost never use voice to turn on/off one specific light, it's typically at a room level
turn off the lights is all that you need
I do something like (room)_(fitting)_(bulb), but group bulbs at the zigbee level into (room)_(fitting) - which is the same format as I use for smart switches triggering dumb bulbs
I strive to never add the room or "light" or "lamp" to names as this info is redundant. It's not always convenient though.
it's redundant, but useful for coming up with unique ids 😛
the (bulb) is just a number - my living room has 2x 5 bulb fixtures - so it's "living_room_[south/north]_[1-5]" - and they'll be controlled by the switch "switch.living_room_[south/north]"
There's some places in the Home Assistant UI - the automatic dashboard screen for example - where if the device/entity name starts with the area name, it'll automatically hide that part of the name to reduce duplication.
so I've generally put the room name into the device name, and then adjust the display where needed e.g. in custom dashboards to hide it.
it's also handy when writing automations to have the room name in the entity ids and entity name (for yaml vs visual editor) since the area of the device isn't directly visible there.
Prediction: renaming everybody's entity friendly names will cause a bigger backlash than backups.
Share your concerns in the proposal 🙂
It'd sure as hell make me think twice about updating
@dire pecan - given the recent discussions about engaging with the community before fait accompli's are delivered ... this is one you need to be aware of
(I have commented)
Anybody know how I'd go about making a sort of "switch bot" to control my ERV? My apartment has one and it runs 24/7 for air quality purposes. Problem is, it's loud as hell. The only way to turn the ERV part on and off is to open a big metal cover on the wall in my living room and hit the power switch. I want the ERV to run whenever I'm not home and turning it on and off constantly is annoying.
I was thinking I'd just use a big servo of some kind and an esp32 with esphome. A big servo would have no problem flipping the switch. https://esphome.io/components/servo.html it seems that esphome can do everything I need?
If anybody else has any ideas I'd love to hear them :)
This is what the switch looks like. Excuse the weird angle, it's hard to take a pic and hold the door open at the same time lol!
I was thinking I'd just make a custom servo arm.
I mean.
.. I would just (if the casing isn't all metal) put a shelly or something inside connected in series with the switch; so the switch still functions..?
yeah I can't do that
rental and fire risk. nooo way am i opening it
even if i owned the unit it would not be my property still
is it plugged in
or is it hardwired?
And also a little servo wouldn't terribly struggle with a switch like that either unless its seriously chunky to switch it.
question fot the servo thing would of course be.. is it easy to attach things without leaving marks behind on that? is the front aluminum or magnetic steel? etc. 😄
its built into my wall haha
yep its steel!
so.. probably some strong magnets for mounting I imagine then.. or maybe some tabs that hook in under that metal front panel.
yeah i think magnets would work
magnets or parts with tabs that slide inside; either/or.. and I dont think you're gonna need a terribly large servo
mg9 should probably do just fine for that.
yeah should be ok
anyone have a clue what this guy is talking about? https://community.home-assistant.io/t/ha-solar-tracker/571372/27?u=langestefan
Nice project…I was trying to set up a solar tracker with Ha,but had problem with N/S,because Ha dont use - for south and + for North. So i went for another Arduino solution,but i can send Rest command by HA to the tracker to control it…for example Wind Parking…or shadow parking using an external light sensor. I my project I use an Esp32 ,a gyr...
He doesn't like how the home assistant solar position tracking works so diyed it with an arduino
Wind parking is turning the panel to be parallel to the wind so the forces on the mount are lower
No clue what he means by shadow parking
which is weird. Because you can just correct it with a template sensor
That's definitely not the weirdest thing about that post
I guess parking it when it's fully shadowed to reduce wear and tear on the motion system?
Maybe? Though I'd have thought not moving when shadowed would be better for that than moving to some home position
wind parking i can understand. move to a position less likely to get damaged by wind. shadow parking should just be "sit still and ignore any movement commands until handbrake is released"
Lol if spacecraft keep tracking the sun during periods of eclipse, so should ground based solar!
what does it mean?
Does anyone by any chance know more about SMD diodes?
I can barely find anything about this diode... I only know that it can handle about 13V, which checks out cause it's shorting out the 12V rail from a HDD.
I have a bunch of other scrap devices but none of them have a diode starting with 6BG, not sure if I can just wing it and put a close one in...
Im not sure if this is the correct channel, but I was toying with the idea of getting garage door contact sensors, but I do have a unifi g3 camera in my garage. I believe I can get the same result of just knowing if my garage doors are open / shut through some kinda of AI integration. Anyone have suggestions?
probably, Wyze uses QR codes. That said, it won't be as reliable or as easy to automate with
I'd guess easier to just put something together with esphome and a contact switch or something, but done sort of image recognition shouldn't be too hard - checking for a coloured sticker or qr code in a particular part of the image doesn't seem to difficult and likely more responsive than just throwing the whole thing into ai
What's the smallest computer that can support HAOS? Small in size that is.
pi, zimaboard, nuc
probably some thin clients
how does lovelace not have a builtin digital clock card 🙃
Clock weather card in HACs is pretty good.
I like this one https://github.com/Thyraz/pqina-flip-clock-card
Is it possible to send the notifications that I have sent to my phone to the dashboard as well?
I think it would be cool if there was a button on a dashboard that had a small number on it (number of notifications), and when you press it a window opens with all the notifications.
Is that possible in any way?
how would I go about setting up a kasa ep10 smart switch?
Setting it up with Home Assistant would be a topic for #1284966582375813201. Wiring it up would be a topic for #1284966353798697001.
hello everyone 👋
new here just getting to grips. I've got an energy monitoring smart plug i've set up it shows me my total kwh this month and i know my per kwh from my energy entity from energy provider. Is it possible for me to make something which multiplies the two such that i can show the cost on my dashboard?
happy to do some reading into it just getting used to terminology and knowing if i need to make an addon or custom entity or something like that
Check #1284966203026182206 . There's bound to be an existing post about exactly that. If not, feel free to make a new one.
thank you 👍
you could just add both entity to the energy dashboard and it will calculate cost for your automatically
Apologies for this not being directly related to HA but I have been noodling on this problem for awhile and thought I might get some help from the smart folks here:
I have a Surface Pro that is running the latest LTS version of Ubuntu (24.04)... I know, crazy start already, right? Everything works really well and I have everything configured as I want it except for one small issue. It seems like the 'touch screen' sensor times out after a few minutes and gets 'confused' when it gets touched again. For example, if I walk up to the screen and tap on a card on the dashboard, the 'right click' menu for the browser will open up and I will need to tap elsewhere to dismiss it and then tap what I wanted to tap in the first place. I have found a workaround where I can tap on a blank spot on the dashboard before tapping the card that I want to interact with and that works for me and my wife but it is not intuitive for anyone else that may interact with the dashboard.
I don't have the correct words or its a problem that others haven't experienced before because repeated google searches using different terms has only gotten me solutions or diagnostics that produce no results.
I've even asked chatgpt and it was also less than helpful despite a very detailed back and forth where I was almost conviced it knew what I was talking about
anyway, as I said, its a minor thing but its been taking space in my brain for too long and I need to get it out.
I have tried multiple browsers, confirmed and adjusted all touch screen settings in the OS, and updated from 22.04 -> 24.04.
Is there a way to make a fake device from IR commands? I have scripts with all the IR commands but want to make it a device so I can then hook it up to dashboards and some other stuff a bit easier.
I'm sure its possible but cant seem to find documentation on it.. suspect I am using the wrong terms.
#1284966582375813201 can help you
Is it possible to have presets (buttons) available and appear on a light dimmer device instead of dragging up/down to guess where the desired % value is?
Do you actually need the ha box to be wherever is so small? Could it be elsewhere and connected to… that place?
#1284965988642590891 can help there
I was more thinking of the device control screen itself. Right now, a dimmable light just has a slider and a power button. It would be nice to add additional buttons for specific percentages or brightness levels. Both per device and across the board.
If you have a feature request for the frontend you can open one here, for Home Assistant itself please post on the forum. All other feature requests should be made to the developer of that custom card/component.
Thank you! Can you tell me if the interface I'm talking about is specific to an integration or is more generic and core to HA?
I'd assume it's generic
Sorry this one
Right, that's:
- Still a topic for #1284965988642590891
- Still generic
Thank you
anyone got any recommendations for soldering microscopes?
I was looking at some amscope stereo ones but they're expensive in canada
Scotty at Strange Parts did a deal with a Chinese manufacturer. I got one, its quite good. Optical, so no video latency issues but it has an HDMI camera output too. Link in the description https://youtu.be/MBFyGzrClsI?si=HDbIn0cmXMhxESoe
You're looking at about $500 CAD shipped. Which really is a good deal considering the quality. Don't be tempted by USB microscopes, the latency and lack of stereo vision will drive you mad if doing more than casual SMD work.
You mean the pcb?
anyone playing with home-brew DIY zigbee stuff?
i have a problem with cleaning up after examples I connected
right now my RGB light bulb has pressure and flow data in Z2M device state 😅
rebooting HA seems to have cleaned up the weird states
Hi guys, what's the easiest way to control a linear actuator using a key fob?
<@&330946878646517761> ^^^
Honestly probably just an esp32/arduino and a couple of relays and a nfc reader
small, has relays, runs tasmota. $29 plus shipping. but it's on kickstarter, so ymmv. just add rfid reader for the fob.
What does NFC have to do with controlling a Linear actuator?
You're the one who specified using a key fob to trigger it... Those are generally nfc or rfid
433 too
That's more for wireless buttons than what I'd call a keyfob though (a thing you touch to a pad to make something happen, normally open a door/box etc) - but that might just be language issues
Yeah, i think its language issue. In the us keyfobs usually refer to remotes like those for cars
Ah gotcha
Ah well. I'll work on fixing that once you guys learn what chips are and how to spell aluminium
Oow, my bet. I ment the same thing you use to open a car
we call those crowbars
I though it was USBs over by you
only for dummies who drive kias
A clicker
--US citizen
keyfob is also good in the US
used to just be a non-electronic, non-mechanical thing to hold onto a key ring, but has evolved to be the car remote/key itself
I get the ESP 32 relais bit, but what should I get to make it work with, basically a remote like that?
Something like this https://www.espboards.dev/blog/esp32-433-rmt-ev1527/
this looks pretty awesome, 7A relays should be enough for a lot of cases
I think Sonoff made a 4-relay box that can be controlled with an RF remote (aka key fob). I don’t know if they still sell it, but I’m sure you could find one on eBay.
Anyone having a case where HA fail to save backup configuration?
Ask in #1284966582375813201
Created a stand mount for wall mounts. It's hard to find a decent stand for most tablets but wall mounts are everywhere, so I came up with a solution ;)
If you want to share details, #1284960456880029707 is a good place.
I got the picture frames for my e-paper display project today! I’m excited to see how much I learn making this. 
I have managed to absolutely fuck up some code - but at least it gives me the errors when it fails. 😅
So long as it keeps the magic smoke contained it's fine
what is the Orbit controller doing?
Customer of mine had a sprinkler controller die and a wire cut... I already made this little ESP32 relay box with temperature/humidity/sound sensors. Was an easy sell and got them back up and running within 4hrs :)
seems like you have everything you need
I left the old unit in there because it's not mine to take :p
Oh c'mon man nobody is geographically located near me in this server lol
I'm just saying that that channel is intended for showing off stuff you've done
that's what it's there for
is this the right place to drop a question about zigbee?
probably more likely #1284966617670881350
thank you 🙂
ugh. just finished soldering up & flashing 4 more (identical) d1 mini's for the rest of my mini splits, but tehy just stay at HVAC disconnected
i did not need to cut the trace on the original one I did (from the same batch)....so assume i dont need to cut it on the others, but none of the new ones show connected when I connect them to my unit in my office
Does anyone use tvheadend that can help me? I'm running a scan but it fails with no data
Hello can someone help me how I made a 15 minute Timer, so that the switch switches every 15 minutes?
you probably want #1284980040940912641
or #1284966664357810196 e.g. {{ now().minutes // 30 < 15 }} will switch every 15 minutes
Just got HA running inside a vm. Lovin it. Bought bluetooth, z-wave, and zigbee controllers for it. First acquisition was smart plugs. Currently trying to figure out which bulbs I want to buy.
#1284966353798697001 can help guide you
Is anyone here familiar with light switch wiring? I'm installing some inovelli smart switches on a three way light following this wiring schematic. The main part that is confusing me is the wiring in the box-to-light since it looks like the neutral is tied into the black wires. The left set of romex is the light in question
Shit a brick. I thought the wiring in my house had issues. Ignoring feelings about wire nuts, and that everything's for some reason covered in paint, nothing good has happened for a white wire to be twisted with a black wire
yea I didn't do that, so now I'm pretty confused
the white wire in question looks like it's coming from the romex in this part of the diagram, but it's twisted with black wires to a switch for a separate light
anyone have any advice or resources they can point me towards?
I'm gonna echo the earlier sentiment. Unless you're confident enough to pull that all apart, test each cable to see where it goes, work out a plan to include the smart switch, then reassemble it all, I would talk to a sparky (and get them to do all of those steps)
If you're not 100% sure you could take it apart and put it back together again, I wouldn't start taking it apart
Yeah, that's something I'd do myself but have zero confidence in walking someone through remotely
And as I said in #home-and-garden : if you are in any doubt, it is better to consult an electrician. No smart switch is worth putting yourself in danger.
I've changed plenty of light switches before so I'm not really concerned with that aspect, it's mainly just trying to figure out why the hell it's put together like this
yup, if you have to ask then getting an electrician is usually the correct answer
I can kill the power and start toning wires, but I'd need a reference I think for how it's supposed to be
Fundamentally it's not that complicated. Lick the wires until you find the spicy one, then flick the switch until you find the one that goes to the lightbulb
To give you some idea, here's one from my house, where I was adding a Shelly relay to a 2-way switch circuit. I made a big-ass diagram which matched up all of the colours of the cables and cores (including modernising one section with the correct modern colour of wire for a 2-way).
#the-water-cooler message
(or you know, use a mains tester and multimeter if you're afraid of spicy wires)
yea the presence of another switch in that box makes it a bit more complicated
anyone know where to go or how to integrate a shclage 469ZP z wave into home assistant, i was able to do it, but cannot get it to unlock my door with a g4doorbell pro by ubioquti
#1284966617670881350 with the "Z-Wave" might be able to help.
is anyone in the Valetudo Telegram Group? I am looking for a local Dreame breakout before I pull the trigger on 5 of them (min order count)
im trying to add a background to a custom card, using - background-image: url("local/calecard.png") i put the png file in the www folder using the file editor add on but it does not appear on the card. can anyone tell me if im doing something wroong? i hope im posting this in the riight place if not just let me know.
You wanted the #1284965988642590891 channel 😉
Hope I'm posting in the right place. So just learned the LG TV can use the hue sync app. Is there any kind of integration for it? I have the box and use that integration with no problem but I also know lg can't do as much vs a android tv
#1284966582375813201 can help with integration questions
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This is definitely "because you can" territory.
Their tiktok videos popup for me all the time(I am sure I followed at somepoint) but that sums them all up. Cool demo of what can be done but most of it is impractical to actually use.
I'm curious, is there a way to make a HA entity that can have its state retoactively changed? Like this is the idea I'd use it for:
When my front door is opened, then my phone disconnects from the wifi, it will mark me as "not home" starting from the time the door was open (which would be in the past)
Everything in HA is event-based. You're asking that something go back into the database and fake the times of the recorded events. Unlikely that anyone ever makes any kind of official integration that does that.
Even in the example I can't really thing of anything that would have a meaning full impact in the difference of 50ft
I did just have a thought on a way I could detect this.
This is my front door. The lock on the bottom is a smart lock that HA is connected to.
The lock above it can only be turned from the inside. And I always lock it right after going in my apartment.
I could either use an ir laser/reflector to tell if the lever is up, or I could possibly fit some sensor in that door gap that detects the actual deadbolt being engaged.
yeah, I know it's pretty minor. But I do live in an apartment building. So I could be within that distance of my door while still being not inside my apartment for some time.
And right now, I'm curious about how me being in my apartment is affecting CO2 levels. So it would be ideal to know if I'm inside the apartment and not just close to it
Ah, an XY problem
slap a reed switch on top of the smart lock and a magnet on the thumb turn
Get a mmwave sensor inside your apartment. Solved.
I do have a mmWave sensor that I put in my air quality box, which is on the wall by my desk. So I can tell how close I am from the sensor for a big area of my apartment.
But that's the only one I have set up. I still have like 20 mmWave sensor modules though. Maybe it would be less work to just set up enough to detect where I am throughout my whole apartment.
mmwave with zones
Just put zigbee button inside the door to toggle a inside/outside helper.
Hi,
I tested Ollama in home assistant but unfortunately, my old AMD radeon rx5600 (6Mb) is not supported.
I successully had something working with "llama.cpp". I mean, with the following setup:
- cpu= intel 3240 ( 2 cores 4 threads , 3.4Ghz)
- 8Gb ram ( 4x 2Gb 1333 🙂 )
- AMD Radeon RX 5600 XT (RADV NAVI10)
- Llama-3.2-3B-Instruct-Q6_K_L.gguf
I'm currently at 50 tokens/s.
At the wall: 40/45W idle, and around 150W when running the LLM.
Not too bad...;-) 😉 😉
Yeah Baby Yeahh.
I'm now trying to have it in Home assistant.... Any advice ?
Hi, I have a random question,
What is the possibility of running non HA software on the HA Green and Yellow,
If I want to put my own OS and run non HA stuff,
Possible or stupid?
Could you, probably. Why would you though is another question. N100s exist for cheap
possible? probably. but totally unsupported and probably not a good idea
I'm looking to install Home assistant OS on a raspberry and Frigate as an addon (so it will run on the raspberry too). Will i be able to plug coral into the raspberry and make it work with frigate?
but no one's answering ☹️
Nobody will answer here, either. Patience, grasshopper
I feel like their tagline is misleading
There's plenty of limits to the power
Looking good though!
As long as the sun is up, we can charge your phone limitlessly
*unless its an iPhone, you'll need a special $900 adapter
I'm envious! I'm still in the design phase of my build out. My meter (and backup generator) are 100' from the house, so I'm going with outdoor enclosures. I like the EG4 batteries, but might wind up with the Pytes batteries along with the Sol-Ark 15k.
tfw upgrading to 10g for my desktop and etc.. when its cheaper to run a fiber (and more power efficient..) may as well run other stuff randomly too amirite? 🙃
monoprice purple cat6 was cheap.
I've heard good things about Pytes batteries!
Not sure if this is the right channel, this seems maybe too hardware based, but it's not actually a 'I need help with an integration' question for the integrations channel- it's more of a general development question, which is in-line with the 'protocol' question being asked/lack of support focus.
SO I would like to create a general pattern/protocol for 'package' entities- i.e. to track deliveries. I've seen several solutions- use an addon that scans your email, use 17track, etc. I would like something a bit more HA-worthy, something a bit more private than giving more of our data out to random companies that want to exploit us. After all, if we wanted our stuff in the cloud, we wouldn't be using HA in the first place! The thing that seems to make more sense is to make integrations for various tracking company's APIs ourselves- a USPS integration, a fedex integration, DHL, etc etc, which would create standardized 'package' entities that we could do stuff with. That all seems simple enough. The question here is more 'where would the discussion happen for designing what a standardized entity even looks like?' I cannot assume I will be making every single integration, and 'standardized' entities are common- thermostats, weather, cameras, etc, all tend to follow the same general patterns, but a standard is useless if there's no buy-in, and the best way to get buy-in is to make sure it actually meets people's needs- not just mine.
Sounds like a #developers discussion to begin with
lol well that looks potentially problematic then, since your post looks like this to me:
thank you for the info though, gonna go poke around the rules/annoucnements, maybe something got added sometime after I joined here, I've mostly lurked
aha!
Thank you, I didn't realize there was a developer section since I didn't have the role
Would love to get people’s opinions on matter, I currently don’t have it setup and Donny have ipv6 setup. I run a mix of zwave, Bluetooth, and network, and HomeKit devices. Is matter that game changing?
It might be in the future. But for now the feature set is too limited in my opinion and some companies are already abandoning Thread.
Its not adding anything for us that us HA, we already can use most devices with HA by sticking an adapter usb into our box.
I also don't believe that interoperblity is the realy issue for the big names. Its lack of automation tools.
So my personal opinion on it aligns a lot with Jorg's, it has a lot of potential to be a game changer but it isn't quite yet there. HomeKit should already work with Matter devices, same with Google Home devices (iirc). Thread works over Matter anyway, so honestly if people stay focusing on Matter it should make Thread more stable over time; in my eyes, more work on Matter means people can work on Thread easier later - but it's totally possible it gets abandoned.
The problem Matter really has is a Marketing Problem™️ - they suck at it. Most people are like you: What is Matter? What's its benefits over the current protocols? Things like that.
I do think what we do with Matter in Home Assistant is good for us and Matter overall - adopting something early helps our community adopt the devices earlier. 😄
whoa that ended up way more of a novel than I expected, sorry lol
The lack of thread support is my biggest concern with matter. Battery life alone will be dead if all door sensors have to on wifi. Not to mention most people's isp provided router can't handle that many devices.
And having a Zigbee hub to get sensors in Matter feels like a step backwards to me.
Yeah, I think so far I prefer Zigbee.
But having an extra Matter hub for those, so you can have less functionality for slightly more compatibility?
Thank you, this really helped
I remember intently debating with myself over zwave or zigbee
And I can’t quite remember why I went zwave
I think it was something to do with possible frequency range overlaps with Bluetooth
And Z-Wave has stricter standards.
915mhz alone is a good reason
z-wave has 2 different incompatible frequency standards too right?
One of the disadvantages. Regional different frequencies. Here it is 868 MHz.
Zigbee is the same everywhere frequencywise.
That's fair but 868 is out of the cluttered 2.5ghz band so range is better
I think technically my Meshtastic stuff and the zwave are overlapped but I don’t have enough Meshtastic traffic to cause issues
I was super excited for Meshtastic and then found I don’t have any other nodes nearby
But you could use it as a remote for HA via MQTT. 
A node at home connected to MQTT and one mobile node.
so everyone can see you open your door?
Meshtastic has encrypted channels
That's newer than the last time I looked then
Mhmmm
No no... so everyone can open your door. 
They have 2 different varieties now
Basic password style where anyone with the password can see
And the early stages of a more asymmetric key style I think
I’ll be excited about Matter when/if I can merge Apple and eero thread networks for coverage. For now it’s mostly temp sensors and some lights on Zigbee and door/smoke/switches on zwave.
A couple spots have zigbee plugs instead of zwave because the network didn’t like transformers suddenly throwing out interference
Hey everyone, sometimes my wife leaves the stove or oven on accidentally (memory/health issues). I’m looking for a solution that would allow me to get alerts or status using home assistant. I tried looking for an oven probe with 433mhz since I already have a receiver for that but didn't find much. I thought about a PI with customer vision, but I don't think I have a good enough spot to mount that. I'd have to be careful about alterations to the stove itself since we're renting
Electric or gas stove/oven?
electric
track its power usage
Can you put ct clamps on the mains for them? They should have individual or at least separated loops
It's non-invasive and can be taken off when you move out
I have an automation that announces for simalar reasons
oven on
oven off
oven up to temp (power drop off)
and "oven is on" every 30 mins
Sounds like what I need. She uses the stove top as well but I think if I establish a baseline power draw (if any) I could make alerts from that. Do either of you have device recommendations?
i generally recomend shelly devices
"Shelly EM Gen3" it probably a decent option. just pleace be careful when wiring. mains is dangerous and can kill
Agreed, they're pretty high quality, WiFi so easy to integrate
CT clamps shouldn't require any mains wiring
You might also get away with smart sockets, if the oven and stove aren't directly wired
yeah just the powering of the device
yeah depends on the setup (and country)
I've had bad luck with smart outlets in the past. I'm in the US. It's on it's own split breaker (across 2)
a ct clamp over the live (hot) wire should work fine. wherever you can get at it. you will need to also wire the device itself into power though
if your not sure then it may be best to get an electricition in
My FIL is a retired electrician, so I'll give him some cookies or something as payment and get him to help 🙂
that sounds like great plan
I didn't see that exact product on their store page: https://us.shelly.com/collections/smart-monitoring-saving-energy?sort_by=manual&filter.p.product_type=Energy+Meters&filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=
they have the slightly older model - https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-em-2x-50a-clamp?_pos=1&_psq=shelly+em&_ss=e&_v=1.0
i have 2 of those and they are fine. i just recomended the new "gen 3" one if they had it because its newer
Hi, I am new here and I am asking, is there something that can make this old heater / water boiler smart?
I want to have a motor or servo controlling the right big knob which can be set to 3 different modes. 0 off 1 only hot water 2 hot water and room heating via Thermostate.
In summer I have it set to 1 but only 30 min before I need hot water and after that I turn it back off, else my gas bill goes up like crazy. I want to automate that. I have a 3d printer on hand and know how to model stuff but idk anything about electronics. Is there a product that lets me achieve this or do I need to learn how an Arduino with a servo is controlled and connected with HA?
It's all analog tech, nothing digital
The only thing digital is the water temp display
you could put a belt and a servo on it i guess. but you also potentially remove the knob and wire relays directly onto connections. although i guess that carries more risk in breaking it
without dismantling and reverse engineering would be hard to say how challenging that would be
I'd go the relay route
yeah i would tend to lean this way too but if this system is still in use i would suggest that there are reasons to be risk adverse
can't tell if those are potentiometers (spelling??) or click type switches with a contact at each setting
the switch in question being the 3 positions imaging its click switch switching between off / center tap / full tap transformer
They are click types. The left one is a Potentiometer.
So you mean wiring up the 3 switch states to some relays that act like the dial right?
I think the click ones would be easy to wire directly to GPIO pins and send signals, might need to check voltages etc. The potentiometer would be more difficult though
Hmmm I will look what I can do, but thanks for the new ideas on this. I thought there was some kind of switchbot but for spinning knobs or something like that
i imagine the click one is probably acting like the multi tapped transformers in alot of fans. but without dismantling i dont know
you would probably have to customise something i think
I will check tomorrow with what I am actually dealing with
anyone recommend a good 3 or 4ch zigbee relay? I found the 4ch Chinese (rebranded may times) relay that comes in two variants (7-32v and 85-250v). gonna roll my own thermostat.
You need dry contacts I assume?
I built an ESPHome door lock and would like to get the unlock button on an iOS device Lock Screen but the HA companion widgets are broken. Is there any way to get ESPHome HA devices into iOS home app without buying more apple hardware?
didnt someone reverse enginner apples homekey thing?
could use apple native stuff perhaps?
pretty sure i have seen multiple implementations pop up. might be worth some research time if you want to go that way
I think you may just be looking for the HA homekit integration. Not sure if you need a homepod or apple tv in your network though (you may very well as I think those act as the apple home server).
Hi, how did you go?
I am about to smartify my bathroom ceiling-mounted heater-fan-light and any advice would be appreciated.

Aha, you're too quick. Was about to ping you 😂
Well... the file wasn't malicious. But it was weird.
if you don't want to join telegram, you can try on the subreddit - https://www.reddit.com/r/valetudorobotusers/wiki/index/dreamepcb/
The best unofficial place for lovers of Valetudo software on various robot vacuums from Dreame, Roborock, and others to have great discussing and work as a community to solve problems and make the experience even better for all.
***We are not affiliated with Valetudo or its Development Team, we are simply a happy community around great softwar...
I wanted to but all the invites are expired, I'll check that out! I have 1 spare assembled PCB and 3 more unassembled with all the parts
even the one on the dustannounce group? If that says it's expired, then I am sorry to tell you, you've been banned from the groups
I don't know if you did anything, but I can join the main group now 😂 I just created a Telegram specifically for this so maybe my account was just too new and I was getting autoblocked? Also didn't know the dust_announce was a thing. Thanks for subreddit link as well!
Cool! Glad you got it sorted out.
As a normal 2AM activity I installed ESPhome on a WiZ Lighting WiZmote, which uses a ESP8266EX internally
It is now a literally useless device that just connects to Home Assistant and says it's a device, I have no idea what its internal GPIO usage is and therefore don't know wtf to do from here to make it a useful device
With the appropriate patience however, perhaps I can repurpose this into an actually useful ESPhome device that is regularly available at every hardware store & some department stores
Until then I have made the remote for my smart lights functionally useless, solely because in the middle of playing with it on its stock WiZ firmware I couldn't get any intelligible serial out & genuinely wondered if it was even possible to get intelligible serial output from it... and sure enough you can, if you install ESPhome on it and make it literally useless lmao
interesting LOL
Update: baby’s first reverse-engineering project
Need to figure out how I can make that LED shut off & how to use deep sleep mode, but it otherwise is now a somewhat usable ESPhome device even if the batteries will only last a day
Maybe I can contribute the best config I can come up with to devices.esphome.io lol
Anybody know this error and how to fix?
ahaha idk any other thin wall, tbh all american houses have thin walls