#annies projects
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ok, so i wired a pot into my circuit, a 10k. i tried implimenting the pot control but like i said .01v difference
do i need a different pot?
with an led thrown in, i get a 4.72 high and a 2.5 low
How are you doing it? You need a much smaller pot to limit current, like 100 ohms
If you are trying to indicate battery power, you can only do so much. Dont forget about the constant drain on your battery while using this circuit.
im trying to vary the power
i only get drastic changes with this. when the led is removed, i only get a .01v difference
and i dont get a full 5v with the led
so the smaller the pot, the more it can restrict at the low end, the larger, the less?
So with that circuit, you risk burning out the LED. Put a current limiting resistor on it, you are basically varying the brightness
and you cant exactly measure power with the way you have shown. You need a load, like a resistor.
i know.
Use 100 ohms as as load, use a smaller pot and you'll vary the power. BUT note your also forming a voltage divider, so you may not get the voltage you want out
You'll have to use more advanced circuits if you want to add current limting
this is the current wire up on my breadboard, reading at a steady 3.91v
Wheres the center lead of your Pot? Is it just floating?
oh, remove the pot
measured straight from the lipo charge board, which outputs the battery
But that will only give you voltage. If the pot is all the way to the left or right (depending how you have it hooked up) that would explain the reading close to the battery voltage. Turn the pot half way and re-measure
with a resistored 3.2v led, 2.54v-3.36v, with a middle of 2.57v
without the led, 3.95v-3.95v, with a median of 3.95v
@keen epoch
That makes sense. Your measuring the LED voltage + the resistor voltage
This is Kirchhoff's voltage law in action.
The sum of all voltages in a loop must be 0
This is the last thing I'll leave you for the night π
This is the circuit you have. LED1 is assumed to be a blue LED and is assumed to be 3.20V.
VR1 is your output, Any where along that node, you will measure that voltage. So you are measuring the voltage across R1 and LED 1. Assume that VR1 is set to 0%, or its a "short" meaning, no resistance.
I have to refresh my memory for this, and I may be a bit tired.
Edit, scratch all of that. I may have misread. Your voltage shouldnt be going down that much with a single LED. I may have to answer this in the morning but are you trying to pull current from the charger or the battery?
battery via the charger
im removing battery level indicator for now and focusing solely on the output. i want to go from the battery to the charge board, to the 5v booster, to the pot, to the barrel port, then down the ground and back to the board with a switch somewhere in there to shut off all power @keen epoch
So the battery is hooked up, on the charger, and you are powering from the battery with the charger not connected?
correct
your battery shouldnt be dropping that much with a 10mA LED π€
tie your free leg of your pot to 5V or CN2
its basically acting like a 10k resistor (or what ever value you picked)
so tie both to 5v?
wait, ione to 3v and one to 5v works
kinda. i get a low of 3.95 and a high of510
i found out how to use 2 pots, just for fun π
cant figure out how to get it lower. resistors seem to do nothing
ok so you have your 3 legs, 1,2,3, with 2 being the wiper or center. Connect that to your 3rd or 1st leg. that "node" will be your output
ok. i have 1 and 3 at 5v and 3v respectively and 2 heading to the barrel (or the multimeter in this case)
hold on, you have two different voltages going to the pot?
yes. im trying to get the voltage output to be at most 3v to 5v
Dont do it like that, you could end up feeding the 3V supply. You wont be able to limit the lower range too much, at atleast not with out a buck-boost conveter
converter
should i ut in a diode to prevent feedback?
Let me think. You could do a diode "or" circuit. But if you are trying to limit current, a pot isnt the best way to go. Its easy, yes but you'll also end up varying your voltage too.
so, think pragmatically here: Will the user (or you) ever have to vary the voltage between 3V and 5V?
Ive never had to do that. From 5V? Yes. But I would use an external supply
then i should replace the potentiometer with a toggle switch like originally had it
also the 5V power will dominate anything because its greater.
yes
so we are back around to the level indicator
tried and true method at least
since i have a sticker with voltage on it, should i just remove the leds that tell you which voltage you are using?
cause i really like the idea of using leds for that.
You can still use the LEDs
then i need to figure out how to impliment them, because i cant
to indicate which voltage is selected?
yes
You would need a DPDT switch
i dont have one yet
then thats what you need π
i was hoping not to need one as they are bigger
There is another way, but its more complex
or use comparators
Or possible even a TL431 circuit
but silicon is cheaper than copper, remember that π
no to the complex. here is a question. i can throw both my control box and my battery pack into one enclosure (the big one with window) should i do that since it will show a variety of somple components?
For reasons of looking cool? Or something else?
- a kind of intro level diy that introduces basic soldering, components, and whatnot, 2) to give a box that has switches, pots, and battery all in one. just plug into your breadboard and run jumpers to and from
ive got the proto types on my desk and they work well
it allows you to use less space on your breadboard too. the toggle switches alone take up 5 points for just 3 pins
you know what, ill make it an option. either the control box, the bat pack, or the combo
here is the question though: A) which pots do i use B) should i put in a couple selector switches so you can choose which switch or pot to use for a specific output C) is there anything else i should add, and D) what are some simple projects i should include for after the box is assempled
whats the purpose of the pots?
whatever the person wants really
you can just have them go to terminals "A,B,C" or "1,2,3"
yes, but which pots?10k, 100k, other?
Ive found 2k or 5k pots work best
i can currently get 1k, 10k, or 100k
1K would be OK. I would do 1K and 10k
should i do one or the other, or both?
Up to you honestly π it doesnt matter too much. Ive found that you lose some upper range with the 10k though.
Good idea
ill alow them to select the battery capacity, and the pot type. then ill assemble the kit and ship it out
i also had an idea to replace the led power level indicator section with a volt meter
Good π Just be aware of project creep and loosing sight of your intentions
I thought of that too
so i can offer that as an option too
also good
anything you think i should add?
-User selectable 3.3V/5V
-Lithium Battery w/Level indication
-Integrated Charger
-Small form factor
-User selectable pots with knobs
Did I get all that?
I think without making it too complex your OK. I mean, we can get as complex as you want to get and learn a whole bunch of stuff, but then we have project creep.
So I think you are good.
user selectable switches too
im thinking of having all the switches and pots go to the same 4 rotary switches so you can assign them to different outputs without having to rewire
Why not have them freely available? They might use a pot and switches
exactly. each pot or switch will go to each rotary switch. they can set all 4 to the liniar 10 k if they wished, or each switch to a different pot or switch
then if they decide to swap out a pot for a switch, they just turn the rotary switch and select the toggle. no nttd to pull wires
i got tired of wiring but this is cort of what i mean
i may have to ixnay that for now
may nees a dp4t
im making one other mod to my prototype.
instead of a bunch of wires leading off the box, a port for one of these should do https://www.adafruit.com/product/1675
should i put a diode on the outgoing power line
id like to ad a small display but that may be too complex. plus id be starting into my other idea of a custom 100 in one electronic lab
FYI I may not to get to the rest of your Q's tonight, I'll be away
thats fine. im gonna start designing what i can. ill need the comparator version of the indicator but that can wait
im afraid i dont know how to wire a dpdt
Looks like there are two inputs and four outputs https://learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Double-pole-double-throw-switch-DPDT
This is an article explaining what a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch is
and how it is used in a circuit
so absent a datasheet that comes with the switch, I'd imagine setting up a breadboard with power to an LED going through the switch could figure out the connections nicely
or a multimeter with continuity but unless you've bought one since we did that resistor measuring thing, that's not an option for you
ok. i figured it.its 2 seperate switches that share a single actuator
i know its Christmas day so you can feel free to ignore this stuff for the day, im just posting thoughts anyways, helps me think. happy Yuletide
im thinking of this instead nof the boost and charge boards as seperate items. this also allows the user to incorporate arduino projects right into the set. i can cut slots in the top for connecting the other arduino boards, or even to connect displays and other boards as they become more advanced in electronics, all while keeping the ribbon cable outpute for everything. they can even use jumper wires to go right from the ribbon cable port to the arduino projects. they wont even need special knowledge to solder in the shield as the box will be primarily for the control hub. maybe ill sell 2 versions, one with arduino, one without, naybe even a rasberry version or something. right now, just the arduino and the non arduino. in the non arduino, ill replace the 2 boards with a bower boost 500c once they come in
FYI this popped up on reddit today
https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/rovfch/battery_indicatornot_working/
I still need to set up the indicator. I have the arduino compatible board designed but without the indicator.
Ok. Im gonna go comparator route, but am a little lost on it
How so?
Do you know how comparators work?
If not, I would suggest delving into books π or YT
To understand them or to play with them?
They are called Comparators π
you can technically use an op-amp in open loop mode but this..has its own set of isssues you want to avoid for now
Learn more about theΒ TI Precision Labs - Op AmpΒ EvaluationΒ ModuleΒ used in the hands-on lab modules
https://www.ti.com/tool/ti-plabs-amp-evm
The comparatorβs job is to compare two analog input signals and produce a
digital or logic level output based on that comparison.Β In this video
weβll discuss the basic functionality of the analog compara...
OR LM339
which is a quad
i was just about to link that last one and ask if it would work.
so i would only get 4 leds, 5 if i wire the lowest one into a low battery output pin
Your 4th LED would technically be a low LED pin
Think about it: Do you really need a 5th?
You'll know via the charger the battery is charged.
Your 1st led would be your "4.20V" LED. 2nd would would be 4.2-3.8, 3.8-3.3, then 3.3V and lower would be the last LED.
id like one but no. ill have to modify my label nut it shouldnt be too hard to do
i could place the 5v led indicator as the 5th, then i wont have to change my main label. ill just have to remove the 3v indicator and reroute the 5v indicator. technically it would be mostly unlit, but it will look nicer with the 5th i think
You could have 5V,3.3V, Then below that Battery level: Charged, 3.8V, 3.3V,3V, 2.9V (low battery)
Before you do this, be sure to read up on how this will work. Try to examine the pitfalls of using certain components. If you dont have them, you can also simulate stuff online
Just checking in-How is your understanding with comparators going?
On hold for the short term
Hard couple of days
going to see about getting one this week
Alright. Hope everything is ok
just meh. not feeling like learning but wanting to build. no real excitement though
I get that. I really do. Just want to get your hands dirty or build a kit or something
and none of your current projects phase you.
Feelings this myself, which is why I made "shop time" to literally get my hands dirty. Sometimes tapping holes is fun π
(Although I am undertaking a huge project and this is a tiny part of it)
exactly. i came up with some new ideas and such though. working on a wastelane mp3 player/ pipboy. essentially, some wastelander heard about pipbys and built their own out of parts and tins
right now im trying to find a decent led that can be surface mounted and decently small
you should combine your machining skills and make an aluminum enclosure for it. It would be a lot of swarf to hog out though
white? I have a suggestion. Cree LED 3030 J series
unfortunately i dont have machines to work on, which is half my issue with creating things
You need a hot plate and/or hot air station
π learn how to cast aluminum and do a gingery style lathe/mill
Or look on FB market place for older lathes
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4893 this is about what im looking for but a non adressable kind, like a traditional led
learned to cast too π and to black smith
My large project is to make a lathe, but..cheating a bit
just cant do any of it because of where i live
Ahh thats tough :(. Is there a maker/hackerspace nearby?
I would Honestly offer my services if you had a had CAD file..and if youd be comfortable giving an address and all that
not that i can really find. machines like that may not be there anyways as they are dangerous. i do have a 3d printer and know how to vacuform
even getting into screen printing a bit
My local one has a bridgeport, a surface grinder and a lathe
need to clean out my spare room and set it up for crafts
But you have to show proficiency somehow in order to use them (and be a member)
would sequin leds work as surface mount?
Never heard of those tbh
i looked up maker spaces in my area and they all seem to be geared to young students or corporate team building
See if they have open nights. Your usually free to check it out
(if you dont have anxiety that is)
i do π¦
I was asked to do a presentation on microcontrollers on my 2nd time there. In front of people I didnt know
I know the feels
looks like my college has a maker space but i dont know how to inquire about it (no contact info)
maybe. ill try a few numbers after the new year
i thought about starting my own maker space, but i just dont have the funds
still need supplies. also, not sure if there is interest here. might find out once the next semester starts
what do you think? its a pimple adaptor for the spi sd card breakout @keen epoch
i just added a fill too. ill need to rename them but thats not too hard
thats what is meant by a ground plane
@keen epoch
yes
what ever your 0v is
i have just one issue. those 2 pads in the center are not connected
use Via's
im not sure how to connect it while keeping the pad clear
should i just connect the 2 vias in the pads?
use them outside of the pads
that should pit a wire connecting them to the fils right?
you have room
the gnd fill will go around them, and you can use top/bottom routing after that
is that 3rd pin ground?
3rd pin?
3rd from the left, I cant read it
bottom?
res. 3rd from left is gnd on red. its the same on the back, so long as you are looking at the back. it goes vin, 3v, gnd, gap, sck, miso, mosi, cs
i cant tell if those are going to be copper or covered pads at the top
ug. i cant figure out how to fix it. i mean i could just sand it off until there is copper
ill probably be heading off too
So if those pads dont need to be a certain size, eagle library has a test pin library. Place them on the schematic, connect and name your signal
this is what it looks like when on board
you can technically solder to them if thats all you need to do
this is what it looks like from JLPCB
those pads are where the led sequins go
ahh ok. you are better off making a part library for them then, or just buy 1206 LEDs. They are pretty easy to solder.
@keen nacelle i cant seem to get the code to work on the feather
The pins are all the same, but i suspect its the voltage divider
Or some part of the code that uses the vds output
i went with this. i may be able to use headers to add stability this way too'
@nova ingot Can you elaborate please? In what way doesnβt it work?
If the voltage divider is different then youβre right that the code reading its value will need adjustment
I'll take a look either on lunch or later
or you can ask general help
Uhhh yea, Im not too familar with feather code
Oh
Line 17, what does it spit out? 0 to 1024 (or what ever the ADC is)? or 0 to 3.3 (or 5V?)
you might have to convert it
nvm, I see down below you do that. But it looks like you are reading two different pins.
First you are reading (analog_in) and then an undefined pin called "pin"
shouldnt they both say "analog_in"? or "A.0"
Do this instead:
voltage = get_voltage(analog_in) voltage= (voltage * 3.3) / 65536 print(voltage)
That should work, but Im not familiar with your language.
Also Big tip so you dont use floats all over the place: Figure out your thresholds in counts (0 to 2^16) and compare that way.
(I use 8 bit procs, so thats why I do things in counts)
sorry for slow updates and replies. supply day
Dont worry about it π
whenever i get new stuff, i alway unpackage, update my spreadsheet, and solder the headers
Good idea π
i ran into an issue with the comparator @keen epoch
i dont know how to wire it to this
Generally the emitter goes to gnd on the comparator
https://www.componentsinfo.com/lm311-pinout-applications-circuits/
also it helps to read the datasheet a bit
so how many leds will it drive?
cause if its one, ill have to get 4 or 5
nvr mnd, seems to be one
Order today, ships today. TLC374CN β Comparator Differential CMOS, MOS, Open-Drain, TTL 14-PDIP from Texas Instruments. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
one might be a bit much. You'll have to use an common emitter amp after it
im confused
https://www.instructables.com/Li-Ion-battery-level-indicator/ you linked this earlier
Li - Ion Battery Level Indicator: Are you looking for a simple circuit to measure your Lithium Ion single cell charging and discharging level? Here is one chip circuit, powered up from the same Lithium Ion battery you want to measure.This circuit is design to measure 3.7V rechargeabβ¦
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/LM339J/149031 if i got this would i just have to wire it up like in the diagram?
339n yes. i take it the 339j is too different
J looks like a slightly larger DIP package
im switching the 311 for a quad
*smaller
I can see if I have an LM339 floating around, probably not though
so I can kind of build it along side (time permitting)
the j is in stock at digi key and has a minimum of 1
this is the hard(er) part about that. Make sure theres not much difference between parts
But for your purposes, I think you are OK
Oh is it$13? lol
so the j has a max input of 3mv, and the n 5mv @30v
i may be looking at the wrong stat for voltages
here is the problem. it seems the j links to the same datasheet as the n
thats ok
yea, I think you are. That sounds like offset voltage
Not a problem here
it looks like the only pin differences are the bottom 4 left are swapped
and i think i have a bad jst on my new power boost
GLGA is different
or what ever that package is. Just make sure you get a DIP 14 and you'll be ok
they both are
(afk a bit)
since the generall layouts are the same (just a few numbers swapped) it should wire up the exact same way right? i just have to make sure to arange the leds correctly
@nova ingot not even the neopixel lights up?
you do need a * 2 on line 34:
def get_voltage(pin):
return (pin.value * 3.3) / 65536 * 2
# TODO: multiply depend on how much voltage was cut```
because the resistors are equal so we're reading half the battery voltage
Did you modify it? pin is defined in the function's scope; it doesn't need to be globally defined.
I think you replied to the wrong person. But like I said Im not familar with the language so I could be wrong
just blinks red
@nova ingot That code wouldn't blink if it was running, so it sounds like it crashed and the CircuitPython runtime is indicating that by blinking red. Maybe some libraries it needs aren't on the device. Can you check the Serial output using Mu Editor?
@nova ingot Yep, it's missing the NeoPixel library. See https://circuitpython.org/libraries and copy the neopixel.mpy from the lib directory in that archive to the lib directory on the device.
ok. its putting out a string of numbers
good, those are the voltages it's reading off the battery
ITS WORKING!

i swapped out red for blue and green for purple so i would have colors that are different than what its showed and its shining blue!
thogh that may be because i dont have the voltage divider connected
that sounds like it'd leave the pin floating, yes
SO, THE LED IN THE SWITCH IS PUPLE
[i feel like there is some coding missing in the pwm section
yes. after i tested it i reverted the colors to default
and you changed it only with the wiring? or also in the code?
only in the code. while testing the neopix. the switch is the next test
its wired just like the qt py
does this essentially say to copy the color of the neopix?
i think i may know part of the issue. the individual wires for the switch leds are all gnd and the common is power in. where do i wire the common
what's it currently wired to?
3v
that sounds reasonable
checking
oh, hm
so the LEDs are lighting as expected, just the colors aren't matching the neopixel?
or are they lighting strangely too?
i think so. hard to tell as i have only full bats
well let's make it sweep, then
neo pixel is right, switch is not
try running that change
is it evident what that'll do?
if not I can describe my intent
it is sweeoing, but the colors are still wrong
green is purple
red, cyan
yellow blue'
its like its trying to mix but is getting it wrong
hm
purple being red and blue?
or is there a purple LED?
okay new idea
can you get back to the serial and press ctrl-C?
then if you paste in the initialization for the LED pins you can set the PWM manually and test them that way
was that enough to make sense or do I need to be more specific?
er, ctrl-c and then enter
you'll enter an interactive mode where you can type/paste and execute statements in real time
okay uh
so the imports this'll need are
from pwmio import PWMOut```
then you can paste in the red_pwm = PWMOut(board.A1) # a green_pwm = PWMOut(board.A2) # b blue_pwm = PWMOut(board.A3) # d
and now you can set, for instance, red_pwm.duty_cycle = 0xffff and see what it does
(it should turn on the red LED all the way, or there may be a wiring problem)
im sure the wiring is right, ive triple checked it
=== import board
=== from pwmio import PWMOut
=== red_pwm = PWMOut(board.A1) # a
=== green_pwm = PWMOut(board.A2) # b
=== blue_pwm = PWMOut(board.A3) # d
=== red_pwm.duty_cycle = 0xffff
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "<stdin>", line 4, in <module>
ValueError: A1 in use
paste mode; Ctrl-C to cancel, Ctrl-D to finish
=== import board
=== from pwmio import PWMOut=== red_pwm = PWMOut(board.A1) # a
=== green_pwm = PWMOut(board.A2) # b
=== blue_pwm = PWMOut(board.A3) # d
=== red_pwm.duty_cycle = 0xffff
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "<stdin>", line 4, in <module>
ValueError: A1 in use
try adding exit(0) as the first line of the code.py
then try again
I guess the existing code was already using the pins
return color_value * 0xffff // 255 could this be the issue
oh!
uh, maybe
that's easy enough to test
you can paste that function in and feed it values and see if the right things come out
did the LEDs all behave as expected when you manually set them on/off then?
i manually changed that line in the code and it shifted colors
from my poking at it, I don't think that line is the issue
65535
>>> 128 * 0xffff // 255
32896
>>> 0 * 0xffff // 255
0``` because these all look right
and yeah, it'll shift the colors if you change the code that determines the colors
but I don't know that it means it's the problem
I don't have more ideas yet - were you able to start setting PWM cycles in the realtime mode?
no. i couldnt figure it out
did you try putting exit(0) as the first line so that the saved code didn't grab the pin?
import board
from pwmio import PWMOut
red_pwm = PWMOut(board.A1) # a
green_pwm = PWMOut(board.A2) # b
blue_pwm = PWMOut(board.A3) # d
red_pwm.duty_cycle = 0xffff
what did you do with that / what were its results?
many times
hrm
I don't know what's happening, sorry
maybe those in #help-with-circuitpython have more ideas for things to check?
ill try tomorrow
does it turn red if you replace everything in code.py with just the code you pasted?
@keen nacelle IT GOT FIXED
@nova ingot Cool! What did you change?
def get_pwm(color_value):
return 0xffff - (color_value * 0xffff // 255)
oh, inverted?
oh right because ground
that makes sense but I would not have guessed it
βwhite - greenβ is a helpful way of thinking about it.
hey. have a question. any quad comparator will work for the voltage meter right?
threads get archived when not used for a while. if you go to the hashtag at the top and click archived you will find them
ahh I didnt know that
WHich one are you looking at specifically? Generally yes
Order today, ships today. LM339NE3 β Comparator Differential CMOS, MOS, Open-Collector, TTL 14-PDIP from Texas Instruments. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
it seems to be the same as the other lm models
yes
but it will just have enough current to drive those LEDs
I dont know why they dont use transistors
ok, o it will drive the dels, but will it properly show the actual power level of the battery?
im gearing up for class on monday
Li - Ion Battery Level Indicator: Are you looking for a simple circuit to measure your Lithium Ion single cell charging and discharging level? Here is one chip circuit, powered up from the same Lithium Ion battery you want to measure.This circuit is design to measure 3.7V rechargeabβ¦
But yes
What classes are you taking?
microcontroller programming. ill be learninf rasberry pi and python
Huh, those are more microcomputers. I would have figured arduino would be there :). Good luck and have fun
i plan on it
π₯°
i am going to replicate the rover in both arduino and circuit python
which rover? There are many lol
i have the boards for it so i should be able to
pirover is what they are calling it
im also thinking of doing a battle bot and building a scorpion, just for fun and destruction
Oh I cant say heck
I always wanted to do one for the heck of it
Even figuring out armor would be fun. Hardened steel or not?
maybe we will meet up one day and battle it out
Yes and hopefully we have character sheets done and some good dice π
lol. the only characters i have are currently gods
Could always get into a battle mech and dual it out. I havent played MW5 but it looks pretty cool. I cant bring myself to buy new games strangely enough. Its been being dumped into my hobbies
But-Id be down. Depending on where you live
found out what kind of bot it is: Yahboom G1 Tank robot
apparently it includes a tool kit and i get to keep everything
Wow
$150
Not too expensive but expensive enough. Almost expensive as a text book
Oh man, you can have so much fun just to design power for the thing
Easy, off the shelf power? Ryobi Batteries. 18V will have more than enough. Want to switch it up? 40V batteries and then upgrade the motors to BLDC motors
Haha robot go vrrrrrr
i paid 250 for materials and am getting a tool kit and a multimeter
Did you get one of those trainer kits? Its a giant suitcase with a bread board + power supply
I still have mine from many years ago. I want to get rid of it..but Im like "Some day I'll use it". That day hasnt come
now you just get to do it at home :p
yeah. i actually plan on doing up a custom modular lab. put in a few standard components and a couple monitors, and placing in a rpi arduino and feather
didnt have those in the old electronic labs
Sounds interesting. Planning on getting a scope in there too?
maybe. right now im still figuring out what to add and how to incorporate it all.
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Once you get your robot working you should incorporate something like that
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btw I looked in my stock and I dont have DIP comparators
Im gonna add an LM339 to my digikey order. It might be awhile before I pull the trigger though
I call it the ma1a-alpha, aka church
I even mounted an altoids tin to the bottom for tools and extra parts
in the background yeah
its decent sized, id say as large as an xbox and as tall as that breadboard in the back, minus the camera
Wow lots of room for activities
the current chassis is a little small. that area with the boards behind the eyes is practically full, but there is a little room for other things. there are a few more servo pins, a few more sensor slots, and 2 more motor jts
plus alot of unused holes, 2 of which were used to mount the aloid tin to the bottom
i think im gonna run my pip boy on a pi and use the micro controllers to drive various things
morning
Evening π
ok. starting here, i will be stating my project and my progress.
the project lore:
My name is Annabelle and i was born in the wastelands of post nuclear war america. all my life my mother told me stories of the vault dwellers. so i made a decision to try to resurrect that technology. i learned how to seek out and refurbish old tech and slowly built up what i needed. the only thing missing was a case. luckily mentats tins were everywhere.
ok, real lore. i like taking scifi tech and pulling it into the real world. this time its the pipboy. i have wanted one since the first fallout game i ever played, but didnt like most of the commercially available ones. i also like the tactile feel of pots, switches, and buttons as well as altoid tins. so i decided to make a pipboy in a tin
what i want in it:
a fm radio
mp3 player
geiger counter
map with gps
inventory lists for food, tech, medical, books, and movies
a remote link cable for communicating with a pc
health screen which tells blood pressure and heart rate. this is a would be nice item
technically i already have the mp3 player, but i still cant get it to work. as part of the mp3 player system is a custom memory card. i aim to have both run by seperate MCUs but am unsure how to get them to talk to eachother right now. it is all wired up
for the remote link, im thinking of taking a 1/4'' audio jack and building a connector out of washers and gaskets to create contact points and allow data and audio transfer at the least, video at the most
and buried
anyways, im considering adding biotec to this, in the form of a heart rate monitor and maybe a body comp device if i can figure out how
hopefully i can interface with myfitnesspal
so, i started my enclosure and messed up already
I now have 2 extra holes and nothing to put in them
Could it be antennas for show?
no. needs to be funtional, but i may be able to put wires to the main body, just need to seal it. still, dont like that i messed up
i even checked before drilling
My next project is a shell for my paintball gun that makes it look like a gun from halo
With an ammo counter
And an audio component for the gun sounds
my teacher just did the most awsome thing
what did they do?
they are giving me a free raspberry pi 3 for this project
well i have my contact pins, some comparators and even got some vintage audio stuff
Sounds fun! Getting small speakers that sound good may be challenging