#soldering
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
you really want male-male for breadboards
So how does that work with header pins
you could make some with solid wire
wouldn't it just not go in
you don't put the jumpers on the pins, you put them in the holes NEXT to the pins on the breadboard
On the breadboard, the vertical columns are connected together. Read the breadboard guide
so all five holes below the middle are connected together, and all five above are connected together
the header pins and wires are not touching, but they are connected together inside the breadboard
so read the headers guide for how to solder headers. It looks like you used extra long headers, or you pushed the black spacers down
yeah i used extra long headerse after trying it for the first time
I put in the female wires in thet header
and it wasn't long enoguh obviously
so i was like oh i need long headers
So yea
Anyways i'll come back and let you know
thanks
ur a life saver
maybe buy a desoldering pump too
the manual kind, not the expensive powered kind. https://www.microcenter.com/product/657491/eclipse-enterprise-desoldering-pump
https://www.microcenter.com/product/658465/eclipse-enterprise-desoldering-pump
yes, buy a better iron. A temperature controlled one is great, but they are $50 and up. The Hakko FX888DX is $130, but it is really nice
you don't; I don't understand why you did that.
when I said underneath I just meant on the bottom side of the board
Ohhh
not the breadboard
i thought you meant literally underneath
but you don't need to do that now that you have male-male jumpers
did you go to micro center?
in the picture above in this thread, with the multi-colored wires. You would substitute male-male jumpers for the wires in that kind of situation
do you have some solid wire?
not stranded
what does that mean
do you have any hookup wire?
no
like the wire in the jumpers, only thicker. The jumper wires are stranded, so they are flexible.
I'm sorry -- i thought you were going to buy m-m jumpers; i thought that was on the shopping list
i thought it was F2F ðŸ˜
I mean it's fine i can go out and grab some again
But do i need to for sure or can i do something with these
you wrote
so ima head to the estore get new solder, soldering iron, and M2M wires
Oh
i guess i got confused or sm
Also
with the breadboar
the + and - lines aren't aligned
you can jumper to the long pins that are sticking out, but could you take a picture of the boards with the headers from the side, so I can see if the pins are long enough
with the main breaboard holes
the +/- lines are connected horizontally. The other lines are connected vertically. You can see that on the bottom where you ripped away the foam
Ohh
just read carefully; don't skip ahead
^
I was thinking you might need to desolder the pins you already soldered
no cus the old solder didnt hold on
pull the board out of the breadboard. Take a closeup side view
It was just tiny little pebbles
take a picture of the old solder and the new solder
Theres 0 old solder
ok, pull at least one of those out and show me
like it's just not on it
I mean the solder wire, not the iron
This one’s the old one idk where the container is
but it was a thin glass tube
this is new one
That Weller solder does not have any flux. It should be rosin core flux solder. That solder is for making stained glass windows or similar. It's not for electronics. Did you get that at microcenter or home depot?
home depot
micro center' wre like 35
40
dollars?
Yes
if you can find the other container for the springy solder wire that would be really helpful to see if it's what you need or not.
what did you get?
This new one when i like barely tap it onto the solder it just breaks right off
It's like a little bit more hot
410 C
The old one was 370 something
can you give me the microcenter URL?
i'm pretty sure it was this
ok, that's good, but it's lead-free, which means it needs a higher temperature than leaded solder
and the rosin core is vital
so you can use that solder
don't use the weller solder -- return it if you can
Ok
weller makes electronic solder too
looking rn
it was a big roll
you can use leaded solder, it's easier to use, and if you wash your hands, you won't poison yourself.
don't put it in your mouth. It doesn't vaporize. You won't poison yourself. Just wash your hands after soldering. I've used leaded solder for years and I'm still fine
Yes
i def have enough headers
Some are split into 2's and 3's buyt i should be good
where are you, Houston? I forget
north dallas
the weller is from Home Depot or MC?
home depot
any of these except the "metal work"sodler, but the leaded ones are easier to use for beginner soldering
it should say "rosin" core and "electrical" or "electronic"
No way how did i miss that
there's one that looks just like mine same price by weller
BUt mines says metal work
and it shouldn't be really thick. A lot of them are 1.6mm which is kinda thick
which home depot store is yours? I will look at stock. But I think it would be better not to buy the solder there. They mostly have stuff that's too thick
I have a meeting in 10 min. so get the solder at Micro Center. Forget home depot for now
i'll be out after that until 9pm or later Eastern
Ok
did you go to Micro Center also and get thinner solder and the M-M jumpers?
Nah that picture is the new solder from home depot
it’s all i could find
micro center had some but they weren’t labeled well so i wasn’t tryna link it
i got m m jumpers tho
Tested with multimeter and found out the header pin wasn’t sticking out enough on the 3V so no power, ima go and just replace the entire board cus it’s full of solder
@mystic drift
THANK YOU
I LOVE YOU SO MUCH
HOlY
IVE BEEN TRYING TO GET THIS TO WORK for 2 MONTHS ðŸ˜
Nevermind
It's like slightly better though
Auto-reload is on. Simply save files over USB to run them or enter REPL to disable.
code.py output:
Checking board.I2C()...ADDED.
Checking board.STEMMA_I2C()...SKIPPED: 'module' object has no attribute 'STEMMA_I2C'
Checking busio.I2C(board.GP1, board.GP0)...SKIPPED: 'module' object has no attribute 'GP1'
I2C SCAN
board.I2C() addresses found: []
You should only need four wires going to to the I2C breakout. There are a lot of wires in the picture above.
it would be good to see a clear closeup photo of the wiring and the soldering on the pins on both the Feather and brekaout
There are four
the male to male have like split into female ends as well i dont use them though
Will do today
ok, these are really blobby and aren't connecting the pins to the board pads
Yeah i was thinking that
The solders are awful
Ima see if i get the lil tiny balls to cover everything for all the solders
good and bad examples: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems
It would be good to resolder those. wipe off the tip of the iron with a wet sponge or paper towel. If necessary flip the tip toward a box or something to fling off any excess solder on the tip. Then touch the tip to the solder blobs above, and see if you can get some or most of the solder onto the iron tip. Once you've reduced the blobbiness, resolder with a little fresh solder.
Ok
the fresh solder has flux inside it, and will help "wet" the surfaces so the solder flows evenly. When you touch the top to resolder, touch it firmly to both the pin and the board pad at the same time, and then feed a tiny amount of solder in. Both pin and pad need to be hot enough to melt the solder.
I confirmed power is going through + with. 3.3V so that’s not the problem
but still nothing
@mystic drift
I’ll be back later today but tell me what you think
hi - there could be shorts at the places indicated by the arrows,
You should not need separate pull-up resistors that you placed: the breakout board looks like it has pull-ups already
The next time you go to Micro Center, get one of these: https://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?N=&cat=&Ntt=desoldering+pump&searchButton=search
the pump and the wick can be used to remove excess solder
Measure the voltage at the SCL and SDA pins. It should be 3.3V
One of the wicks is sold out in Dallas
Okay
it won’t hurt to have it just in case right
what value are the resistors
should be 4.7k
yeah
you could remove them and try again
where is the test program you are using to find the device?
yah, but where is the program you are using to do the scanning: board.I2C() addresses found: []
Like the code or the app
yes
the program is called MU Editor
Oh i don’t have it on me rn but i think it’s somewhere up
Lemme go look
Cus i’m on phone rn
Hi, I’m using an Adafruit Feather M4 Express with an ENS160 air-quality
sensor wired on a breadboard. I’m running CircuitPython 10.0.3.
When I run an I2C scan, I get:
RuntimeError: No pull up found on SDA or SCL
Setup details:
Feather M4 Express connected via USB
ENS160 breakout on a breadboard
Wiring:
3V → VIN
GND → GND
SDA → A4 (SDA)
SCL → A5 (SCL)
Code:
import board, busio i2c = board.I2C() # uses SDA/SCL i2c.try_lock() print("Addresses found:", [hex(x) for x in i2c.scan()]) i2c.unlock()
Attached is a clear photo of my wiring setup.
Thanks for any help verifying if this is a wiring or hardware issue.
@mystic drift
ok, that's fine. Measure the voltages at SCL and SDA
Alr will do later tonight i’ll let you know
I will say though measuring Vomatge on the header pins and they’re solders never gives me any readings
i was only able to find power by measuring the + strip
Which lets me know it IS powered for a fact
the solder is conductive, so you should be able to read voltages. One probe on the pin, one probe on ground
press a little bit
There's one wire that i'm missing from the M2M, so i used one of the M2F but it was used for the 3v voltage thihis whole time
i siwtched it to the SDA port and now it works
i'm assuming that was causing the power to be inconssitent or something
I know this whole process was so fun ngl